You can get them on Amazon by searching for "anti-vibration rubber balls drone"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010UF4I70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The E511S isn't going to fly FPV - or at least it would be nauseating to do. It's a camera drone - I.E., for photography/videography.
I'd recommend this kit from Emax. Googles, remote, and quad. Neither the goggles nor the remote are high-end or anything - if he gets into FPV he will want to replace those, but they will work to get him started. The quad is again, nothing mind-blowing (nothing off the shelf really will be), but very flyable. Emax also has a fantastic reputation for customer service, as well as a US-based support department.
Alternatively, you could get him a good-quality remote that he won't need to replace like this, along with a simulator like Liftoff or Velocidrone or DRL Sim.
If you are fairly sure he is going to stay interested in the hobby, I think the latter is a better option.
Since it's an x5c-1 clone, why not just get these from amazon, they should fit:
I have these and they're fine. eBay epackets from china take a very long time to arrive.
You dont need the wand anymore with the Tramp HV, just use near field communication! Using the following android app, with a phone that is NFC enabled you can set the vtx settings without powering the quad:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.immersionrc.trampcfg
Yes I watched all those yesterday, So I guess I would need 2
iMAX B6 Genuine Mini chargers http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_176503.html
And 2 parallels boards to charge 6 11.1v 3S batteries at the same time
3 batteries at 4.5 amps each
The Super annoying thing about that is the SKYRC mini does not seem to come with a power adapter... very strange
I wish I could find a 9 amp charger that I could use with 1 balancing board.
Have you recently bought a charging setup ? what did you end up with
Best value is Syma X-11 for $22.95 shipped
http://www.amazon.com/Syma-X11-Quadcopter-Red/dp/B00L4OLA7I/
More stable, replaceable batteries so you can fly longer, etc.
I like the cheerson and proto-x, too.. just like the syma better
I'm also curious about this little hex on gearbest, about the same size as the protox and cheerson but haven't checked it out yet
Go on amazon and buy all this in my opinion to get into Quadcopter flying: The actual Quad
Honestly, at that price point, you're best off going with the Hubsan x4 H107L
Here's an amazon link if u want:
Hubsan X4 (H107L) 4 Channel 2.4GHz RC Quadcopter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hVuFybV3D6TR6
Amazon is great especially if you get fast shipping. Local hobby shops near you would also sell batteries, but they would be more expensive. However honestly, a local hobby shop most likely would sell batteries with banana plugs, and I don't think pre-made adapters that go from banana plug to XT30 exist premade, while you can easily find XT60-XT30 adapters. You will also need to buy a balance charger to charge your new batteries. These chargers make sure all the cells in your batteries are charged to equal voltages, which is important in terms of safety and increasing the longevity of your batteries. I ordered my own batteries and charger from Amazon and they arrived in a couple of days, so if you're comfortable with using Amazon there's nothing wrong with the batteries there. Heres an example of one https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485569927&sr=8-2&keywords=3s+1300mah
Looks like one of these single cell types
TATTU 6pcs 3.7V 380mAh 1S LiPo Battery with Molex Plug and 6-Port Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N74S3LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_DE-fDb6AFWVT3
If the motor is spinning at all, it probably isn't burned out. Get a fresh battery in it, set it on the ground and try to fly. Pick up these replacements from Amazon if you need to swap them out. You will need to know how to solder the new ones in.
Get as small and light as possible. I use these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073J61SSQ/
FYI, if you choose that one in the link, you'll need to short the yellow and green wires together (to send the camera signal directly back to the video transmitter). In the future, you can use this camera with a board that has OSD by undoing this mod.
If you just need a temporary setup you can an Android phone, just setup IP webcam and mount it on the RC and use the another phone or PC as the screen. It will set up a server and you can connect to it from a browser or TinyCam from another Android and you have a live feed.... well there is a little lag but should be good enough to drive with. I've actually done this with one of my son's cheap RC trucks to drive around my yard from in the house. If you go this route and need help with let me know.
I use this Radiomaster device. works great. get a 5000 MAH battery and charge it once every 4 or 5 hours flight time. ELRS built in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XWSNTR8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Well, I'm a fucking idiot.
Turns out they have 2 different bluetooth apps, for chargers.
One is called ISDTGO and the other one is called ISDTLink https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.isdt.isdlink
Turns out running the right app works better. Not sure why the windows app didn't work, unless it's not meant for the c4 air either.
The beeper on this thing is so fucking loud and it plays a tune for everything from power up, to charge start, to charge end...
Thankfully the app lets you shut the speaker off on the device. THANKFULLY
Yes its very old. It doesn't have a VTX on it. When FPV first started, people hacked together systems using security cameras. That's what you have. Not sure what the second board is. May be a DVR or something. If you are just using this on your RC car, it's very simple and cheap. Get one of these things on amazon.
It will work fine for a surface vehicle. If you're putting something on a quadcopter, it's a more complicated and expensive setup.
FWIW if you’re looking for a 1S battery checker and the connector is the right type, this is the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073B39ZV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TJCA2PTJ3Y23F0TFZWYH
If I run the batteries below ~3.7V, I just pop them in my charger for a few minutes until they’re back around 3.8V.
you can get soldering practice boards, too. Here's one from Amazon but there's tons of choices. Better to screw up first on a part that doesn't matter.
According to this thread people are using the SunnySky X2212 980kv's with 4S, but I cannot find anything on using the SunnySky "Angel" A2212 with 4S.
Looks like mine should be a similar weight, 1475g before adding a GoPro. My GoPro is the older HD Hero, need to weigh it still. My original plan was to build it up on a 3d printed frame first with just GPS only. This is what I printed for the initial flying: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:160607 No FPV, no video camera, etc. Get familiar with LOS flying in an open field. Then I wanted to add additional accessories and rebuild on the Reptile frame.
Something like this would work for a fc/esc, combined with a spectrum satellite receiver for control
Might want to check out the WLToys Q303. It will check all those boxes. Only downside is the proprietary batteries.charger, so make sure you get a few batteries when you order it. It flies real smooth, and with the altitude hold it hovers like a dream. I recommend the "A" version, with the 5.8 ghz 72Op FPV, if that is your thing.
í've tried that, on the third video of the tutorial he does the radio calibration. when i try to do that, the naza software on the computer simply does not detect the radio. https://gyazo.com/44ab9b133bc2bdcd66c6172ec2f16690 i cant get that to move.
Have you seen this?
Add a charger and a couple lipos, you'll hit the $100 mark.
I think we need a country wide or even world wide regulation for this.
Also user contributions are ok, but maybe this can be standardized like PIREPs. Just a forum post somewhere is not the right way.
What I don't want is that people or clubs start to make their own laws or recommendations. We need a solid base to build on and I think the solid base has to come from the states aviation authority. Every club doing its own thing is what I want to prevent with this. This will never reach a professional level.
If you create an app, please consider releasing it under a free software licence (e.g. GPL). And at least the Information in free readable format for PC/prints. (see https://creativecommons.org/licenses/?lang=de)
Hope I can help you with my opinion.
I honestly suggest you first buy a toy quadcopter before, than just jumping into one of these. these are really no joke and really hard to maneuver if you have no previous experience. Try one of these first: http://www.gearbest.com/rc-quadcopters/pp_175902.html
See, I have both and think the other way.
The Syma cannot handle wind, that is its big failing, everything else is great.
The X4 clone I have can fly in a gale, not having to be so worried about looking for super sheltered spots and get scared everytime a breeze kicks up. The X4 clone can be tame like the X5 but can be cranked up to insane (for my low skills) speeds, that is why I prefer it.
http://www.gearbest.com/rc-quadcopters/pp_130308.html It has 4 modes, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%.
Edit: clarification
After saying they would give me a refund in three separate messages I get this.
"We wish to apologize for any inconvenience for not replying you sooner.
Your package was finished the packing and wait for shipping, we can not process the refund directly on paypal. In this case, could you please kindly close the case firstly, then we will ask the warehouse team to cancel the picking of items and process the refund for you.
We apologize again for any inconvenience caused. We look forward to hearing from you.
Best Regards Chantal gearbest Customer Service http://www.gearbest.com/"
Such an obvious bunch of malarkey.
No worries-- I can tell you take great pride in the hobby and I'd be appreciative of any advice you can provide.
Oh my, yeah, that example you have there is exactly what I'd like to stay away from. I bet the experience of building a drone would be invaluable, but maybe not at this stage of my interest.
Currently, I'm looking at this model: but I need to figure out how to convert it FPV as it's shown in some of the pics.
EDIT: something like this may be the compromise I'm looking for.
I bought these and they have been working well.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NPPXQBS/
One of my stock batteries worked the + wire clean at the connector...
I can't say that I have noticed any "real" increase in flight time as I am only learning and don't go too crazy. (yet)
Drone parts don't really convert to planes. A plane usually has a receiver / servo "block". Drones don't use servos, so you'd be limited to trying to create an oddball contraption that relies on the FC to control it - not ideal. You need something like this FPVKing Flysky FS-iA6B Receiver 6-Channel 2.4G 6CH i-BUS PPM Receiver with Antenna Compatible FS-i4 FS-i6 FS-i10 FS-GT2E FS-GT2G with 250mm Lipo Battery Strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D35C6MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4TWED6KQC7Q2VXF6J3VY
Wolfwhoop Q3-Pro 5.8GHz 0.01/25/200/500/800mW Switchable FPV Video Transmitter with FC Uart Support Telemetry via Betaflight Flight Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF7TRWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XS91MN9NQSX3SF19D07T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just get one of these or similar, you can build custom length jst cables with it, the crimper is a bit finicky but once i learned how to use it right I get probably 98% of crimps right.
Dupont Ratchet Crimping Tool Kit,Zhushan SN-02BM Crimper Plier with 1550PCS 2.54mm Dupont Connectors and 460PCS 2.54mm JST-XH Connectors for AWG 28-20 (0.08-0.5mm²) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082234HSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BBZ99XKWRJJS4TNP6W3N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Looks like a simple straight through cable though.. If your doing more than a couple amps you may want different cable though than what's included.
The ability to make connectors the exact length you need really cleans up builds of any type.. I use mine mostly in 3d printers and hobby electronics
Link doesnt work as (I believe) it is the link from your cart.. It is really up to you, if you want to just stick the XT30 on there or desolder. I would suggest to desolder, as the cable just creates a bottleneck again, hence you would not have a real gain from switching connectors. For you lipos, make sure you do one cable at a time, don’t chop straight through them or you will short them.
Here is a link for XT30s that seem to be a good deal if you dont want to buy the extra wire: https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B07C5KJX24/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=xt30+connector&qid=1611308958&sprefix=xt30+c&sr=8-4
Obv, shorten the wires too, as it will just add weight otherwise. Oh! And double check that they stuck the wires on the right side (black- negative red positive). I have bought ph2 connectors that were polled wrong. If I had gone by colours only .. well 💥🔥
I have the same recorder (and also TinyHawk ;) I was struggling to make the ROTG02 working fine on Android.
And then I found the only working app. In a half a year I got zero problems, broken videos or anything bad. The app is called USB Camera https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.shenyaocn.android.usbcamera&hl=pl&gl=US
The app's UX is horrible but it's just a meter of taping record and forget. Also change the bit-rate in the settings to anything more than 10mbps.
That is a amazon apex base clone frame. I have it. I bought the genuine Apex plastic parts and alloy antenna mount for the clone.
Thanks for your advice!
> Mavics
Is this too good to be true?
"Emotion Drone DJI Mavic Pro - Camera 720P HD-3 Batteries- Perfect for Beginners!" for $189 new?!
The image of the $189 drone looks like this $785 DJI Mavic Pro on Amazon. What am I missing?
So... I'm not familiar with that but it looks to be a cheap Futaba clone, and it looks like it might be using Futaba's "S-FHSS" protocol. If you look on Amazon you can find third-party receivers that use that S-FHSS protocol, such as this one, though do note, I'm not guaranteeing that is any good or if it would even work, it's just what I could dig up that wasn't Futaba-branded that seems to use the same protocol as the radio you have.
Yeah I'm not super sure on how to tell what batteries work with what - I did some research, and the camera that I ordered says in the specs that a 1s LiPo between 3.2 and 5.5V is required to run it but then it lists some mA stats that I'm not really sure how to interpret. I have three total 1s 3.7V 220mAh batteries that came with the drone. If I'm understanding everything correctly I think these should work for the camera as well..? Or at least that's what I'm hoping.
Crossfire and R9M are separate systems, you have to use matching transmitters and receivers.
Crossfire is slightly superior in it's performance but it's much harder to use and the benefits are even less relevant to someone starting out. For anyone other than very serious racers and people doing high risk long range stuff it probably is not worth it over R9.
I was just thinking since you are buying the R9 transmitter module with your radio you might as well get a receiver for it instead of the standard 2.4ghz frsky reciever, since it's only like 15$ more and you have the transmitter.
Well I’m running a 1500mah 4s battery with this 50A 4-in-1 ESC but this setup has worked in the past, it came built as a bind-and-fly. Only after replacing my motors and ESC this problem showed up.
Try amazon smile to donate to charity automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F62M5Z7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
^^^I'm ^^^a ^^^bot ^^^and ^^^this ^^^action ^^^was ^^^preformed ^^^automatically.
Try amazon smile to donate to charity automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073J61SSQ/
^^^I'm ^^^a ^^^bot ^^^and ^^^this ^^^action ^^^was ^^^preformed ^^^automatically.
If getting a plug in one for bench stuff, I recommend a temperature controlled stick iron. I got one from Amazon for under $20 USD has a dial on the side. Keep it at the lowest setting for most stuff but there are occasions where you need to bump up the temp for big solder blobs. Tips are replaceable and super cheap from aliexpress. Looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S5Z1R2 Make sure you read reviews first. This brand was rated well and I've been loving it for the last 2 years.
If you want to be able to make field repairs however, a gas powered one is the best option for you.
Bo-Toys SkyHunter X 8tw Drone RC Quadcopter Altitude Hold Headless RTF 3D 360 Degree FPV Video WiFi 720P HD Camera 6 axis 4CH 2.4Ghz Steady Easy Fly, Height Hold for Learning https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753Y6RDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_IiQ7DbVWZJ6TK
I have 1S motors on hand but the frame I have is apparently meant for 2S motors as are the props.
I definitely wouldn’t attempt to charge it in my house. Not for the first few times, at least. If it’s cool enough tomorrow, I might string an extension cord out to the middle of the concrete patio and try charging it in the shade.
When I checked it earlier with this little guy, it read 4.13v and 4.14v. I just checked it again and it reads the same. So it hasn’t dropped
If you are looking for a cheap option that can record HDMI best option is to look for something designed for video game capture like this. https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Portable-Recording-Definition-Streaming/dp/B00B2IZ3B0 This will work as a capture card or standalone recorder. Once you leave the hardware made for gamers the prices go up. The best HDMI capture cards I've used are the Epiphan AV.io USB capture cards. They only work to get HDMI/SDI video into a computer and don't do any recording on there own. Unlike the cheaper capture cards they don't require any device specific software or even drivers to work on a Mac or Windows Machine. There more stable and won't cause bluescreen and crashing like the cheaper capture cards can. You can also use more than one at the same time unlike the cheaper ones. https://www.amazon.com/AV-io-HD-video-capture-1080p/dp/B00ZH7HRKW is the cheapest one that will handle 1080p. They have a 4K version as will as a SDI version.
TS100 Lipo powered soldering iron
For an extra hand, I just bought these with some alligator clips and mounted it to something heavy (I used an old hard drive). You'll have extra arms if you want to add a fan or magnifying glass later.
I'm looking at getting this charger https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NB9A36R?psc=1
And a couple of these batteries Tattu LiPo Battery Pack 1550mAh 75C 4S 14.8V with XT60 Plug for RC Boat Heli Airplane UAV Drone FPV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FFD98AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s6reAb31RJQBW
I'm seeing a lot in chargers and programming them. Would this be a good combo?
With larger pads it is much easier to use either a larger tip or higher temperature. Be sure that the iron has contact between both the wire and the pad.
Use leaded 63/37 solder and no-clean flux if you aren't already. Flux promotes good heat transfer and helps form solid solder joints. Heat resistant tweezers can make things easier as well.
https://www.amazon.ca/SODIAL-Ceramic-Tweezers-Resistant-Pointed/dp/B0109LKD2E
I'll agree with others here. With brushless motors, they can spin in either direction, no problem at all. With nylon locknuts, you won't have a problem with them spinning off.
The motors I'm using are 2206 2300KV DLFPV ones, link here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JM1C9GK/ - they're screamingly fast and good to work with, and reasonably priced. I'm happy.
Good luck!
I'm fying with one of these right now, and I'm super-impressed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT8TWXI "ARRIS Flycolor Raptor S-Tower BHeli-S 2-4S 4-in-1 30A ESC + F3 + PDB + OSD for RC FPV Racing Drone Quadcopter"
I posted on /r/quadcopter about the build. Very happy with it, and it's about the same price.
Smoke Stopper - Get One. A new builder will commonly wire their flight controller directly to the 16.4V lipo and burn out it out - or cross wires on an ESC. The smoke stopper will stop a surge of electricity hitting components - its the same as a circuit breaker.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMDLQQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When building google search the name of the flight controller then add ".PDF" or "Manual" this will likely pick up a diagram of the assembly which will help you
Typical voltage: FC: 5V Camera: 5V VTX: 5-16V ESC: Battery voltage
30a ESCs are fine. Just a little more money. I use 3S 5000mah Turnigy batteries I got cheap off GearBest. I also use a hydra instead of a PDB. I use the Matek PDB on 250 and smaller frames.
cool thanks, nah i live in the US lol, Ah i see, so if i got this one
and then cut the wires and splicted on the connectors from the cable of the ft200, would it work?
looks like it has
Ground, audio, video, ground, 7-24v ? does that mean it doesn't have power output? i notice most don't
so would i need this instead?
hm. interesting. So, this is my second day of having it functional. I crashed a ton yesterday and today. Is breaking these things arms pretty common? Or is it just because I'm so new that the crashes are so hard, do you think?
also, shout out to these props. I only broke 2-3 today, despite breaking an arm.
I got the quadcopter kit from Amazon. The parts are: LHI 250mm Pro Pure Carbon Fiber Quadcopter Frame MT2204 2300KV Motor Simonk 12A ESC CC3D Flight Controller (not sure which version, but it doesn't GPS or barometer) Spektrum DX6i Tx Spektrum AR 600 Rx
I don't understand what the CLI tab is. I am using Librepilot 15.09. I went to Tools -> manage flight side logs but there were no logs there. I don't remember ever enabling logs if that needed to be toggled.
I got the kit about a year ago and have flown it infrequently because of lack of time/space/ bad weather. It is my first racing quad so I have crashed (mostly cartwheeled) it quite a few times. Here is a video of each motor spinning up. I used the slider bars in librepilot to have each motor go from 1000 to about 1700. I noticed motor 2 needed to have a higher value than the other 3 to start spinning. The hiccuping from motors 3 and 4 did not happen every single time I spun them up but it was like every other time. They sound kind of beat up. Seem like time for new motors?
I just get the kits off of Amazon
Read the description of the video. Complete shopping list is in it.
Edit: Keep in mind this is a racing quad. May want to consider swapping to a spectrum radio and getting a mini whoop (Inductrix FPV BNF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYZ2KI1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NRSwyb5SQE30M) to build skills.
Less in price, few YouTube reviews. Need to buy the Cable to do the programming they talk about. May need to get receiver.
20-30 I've seen them cheaper on deal a day type sites.
whats the difference between that one compared to like the 10wd-tx if you know? i cant really tell based on the description
I know this is old but I am having serious issues finding anything concrete. I am probably going to pick up an x8c to carry a gopro to get some very basic drone shots, assuming I pick up these batteries that should fit it, what plug/connector/adapter would I need to charge this off a passport lipo charger that has banana plugs on its output? I found some pictures of chargers that appear to just have the battery connected via the balance lead but that seems like a bad idea...
Major thanks to anyone who can help here, spent many hours looking and found nothing.
The best part about this hobby is how you can mix and match parts. If you are pretty good at soldering, you shouldn't have too much trouble putting it all together.
I got my first frame for about $20 from HK as well, and it didn't last long - it hit the ground and lost an arm. It may have been the dumb frame design. It seems that the more extravagant the frame the more frail it is. I've since replaced it with this one; http://www.amazon.com/Andoer-Upgrade-Version-Quadcopter-QAV250/dp/B00S12CGM4?ie=UTF8&refRID=SV1R79WGAF0QQ8R4RPWT&ref_=pd_yo_rr_bia_t_2 It already took a couple of hits as I am learning to fly and it is still holding together. Just remove the 'landing gear.' You'll end up tipping it and losing props more often with them on and with one poor landing, they'll just bend any way.
Also, a couple nylon offsets and power distribution board to keep your wiring neat. You should be able to install the NAZE32 on top of it using the offsets. http://www.amazon.com/Multirotor-Distribution-Adjustable-Voltage-Quadcopter/dp/B00NJGNHX4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
That is an awesome deal on the 9XR PRO, as well.
Would a remote like that be worth it for future use when I decide to try FPV on bigger quads? Or would it be better in your opinion to get something cheaper like a FlySky (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KHJ262Y?psc=1&smid=A34HJKC6MYVCWW)? Edit: Found 9x for $60 Hobbyking sweet! lol
A gopro is liftable, but borderline too heavy. Some youtube videos show it's possible to takeoff with a 6oz payload, but the Syma veers around a bit. Longer legs will likely weigh more. You might want to consider getting a cheapish 720p spy keychain recorder thing. You lose pretty much every feature the gopro has, but the video quality is pretty good.
fully charged is 12.6, though the one that it went off prematurely today was like 12.3 i think...but still it shouldn't go off that early right?
using this guy
Do yourself a favor and master this before diving into building a quadcopter. The hubsan is the best mini quad for the money hands down. Do not bother with the cheerson cx-10, it has unreliable signal in my experience even at very close range among other cons.
I have a hard time believing you'll be able to squeeze a custom build with transmission to your phone out of $300 even if you have a radio controller already.
My advice is maybe a phantom 2 or 3 for ~$500. It will route video straight to the DJI app in your phone. A custom quadcopter is going to be a bit more tricky to get onto your phone and you're more likely to be sending it into FPV goggles.
If you don't go the DJI route you will have to buy an RC controller/vrx/battery charger/figure out a way to view the video feed/etc. The cost can really get out of hand. I bought an Immersion RC Vortex after outgrowing the hubsan and after all the basics I needed I had spent well over $1000.
All in all, until you have 2x/3x as much of a budget go with the hubsan. Good luck!
That vibration mount should be solid. Just need to make sure it's secured to the belly. I recommend opening it up and screwing it in. You may have to file/sand down the stock camera mount to make it flush.
If you like the flying and size of the X8C you'd love the Phantom. very easy transition. The Phantom 3 Standard is a great entry serious quad. Shoots 2.7k video, 12 mp stills, GPS, the works.
And depending on your budget, I found it worth the extra cash to get the P3 advanced. Comes with so much more like the reliable lightbridge downlink, Additional GLONAS satellite network, Visual ground positioning sonar, and the better controller.
Only mods I would do are to balance those props, that really helps. And maaaybe get the upgraded motors for it.
Post up some vids when you make some!
This is the FlySky FS-i6, and I found it pretty nice to start out with, I still use it. Just be careful and don't let it fall from the top of a stroller onto pavement, cause this is my second one lol. I jammed one of the sticks on my last one, but they are cheap enough. :)
I also got this with it to be able to use FPV_FreeRider and Liftoff on Steam with the FlySky Transmitter.
With big blobs of solder and large gauge wire you sometimes need an iron with more thermal mass, not necessarily a hotter iron. I own one of these that I use specifically for large gauge wire. An high wattage iron with a big wide tip will stay hot even when working with big connections. A smaller iron will quickly lose its heat to the connection before the solder has a chance to melt.
Sorry for the late reply, it wasn't loading in my messages. I just got this from amazon. Just make sure you get one that has the right connector for your battery.
Edit: About the wire to use, 14 gauge is sufficient.
hell ya to the x5c-1 modification, i saw quadcopter 101s video about it.
what you think of the v686g? seems legit, and has 5.8ghz wifi fpv...
http://www.amazon.com/WLtoys-V686G-Quadcopter-Helicopter-Camera/dp/B00SQNN17M
Cheerwing Syma X5SW FPV 2.4Ghz 4CH 6-Axis Gyro RC Headless Quadcopter Drone UFO with 2MP HD Wifi Camera (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011JV9GN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_-f2Twb4JQ3A35
This is my second drone. Had it a few days now. The range is kind of mediocre and the video is not HD, but it's incredibly easy to fly.
I should be getting http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XHS4BKM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01 tomorrow, but the batteries I ordered were out of stock until the weekend, so they won't be coming in until next week http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=pd_bxgy_21_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0JAY6NC0TAPFCTAF2GMD
Edit: Just noticed you have the x5sc which doesn't look like this particular charger would work for either...
The camera is kinda crappy. Like novelty crappy. It's pretty much unwatchable because there is no gimbal to stabilize the shot.
Have you seen this? It's pretty clever. The resolution is better and you get the advantage of flying with FPV. The price is right. Quality of recordings is so-so because again, no gimbal but otherwise it's not bad.
Thanks for the suggestion. I do think those controllers are a bit too tiny. I like the look of some of the Syma remotes that are shaped like Xbox controllers.
That was one I was considering. On sale from 200$. Seems like a solid deal if that is the going rate for that model.
Start in angle mode to get the basics and switch to rate as soon as you start getting comfortable
Download a simulator. FPV Freerider is $5 and totally worth it. If you have taranis and a cable you can use that as the controller.
Buy a cheap toy like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXZC762/ and get http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PGRNFE0/ to practice around your house
If you're using 5040 or 5045 props try 5030 for learning
Is this the quadcopter you are refering too? Because it looks in stock and available to arrive before xmas.
I wan't it too!
That's my second quad. (UDI 818 was first). The camera is not particularly good, but the quad is a decent starter one. It's not really meant for outdoors. I flew mine outside (Christmas Day last year) and saw it go flyaway when the wind picked up a bit.
This one is small, but it is FPV, and in your price range http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Quadcopter-FPV-Camera-Toy/dp/B00GSNWB5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450561481&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+fpv
I've been doing it for a year, and it's great fun.
I just used the stock GoPro Flat sticky mount. Off centered to account for the camera lens not being center.
The prop balancer is on amazon (<--linked) for $6. You just take the props off and put on enough clear tape to the lighter side until they match.
First whats your experience...zero?
Get something like the Syma X5C-1. It's big enough to be stable but small enough to learn on.
Syma Toys X5C-1 Explorers 4 CH Remote Control Quadcopter, 2015 Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WH0ITJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_2GEFwbWXJ23RE
Get yourself a few extra batteries as well
Teenitor 3.7V 600mAh 20C Lipo Battery(4PCS) with 4 In 1 X4 Battery Charger for Syma X5 X5C Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LK0DY3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_rHEFwb3JGZDW0
Once you learn to be smooth with your controls and really know the vehicle movement in and out move up to something that can handle a bigger payload and carry a HD camera like a X8C or even a Cheerson CX-20 with GPS.
I like the X5C. Not a bad quad for the price. There is a newer version with an FPV camera.. Syma X5SW. It streams via wifi to your phone/tablet. There is also an FPV expansion for the X5C that includes a monitor that attaches to your transmitter.
I have this one, It is very durable and fast. Also for the price you can't beat it.
That might work, never seen it in spray form before.
I think this is similar to what I use: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1445895631&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=White+Lithium+Grease
They look like the same size / shape of prop that my Syma X5C uses.
Try a set of replacement Syma props and see if they fit.
Stop using that cheapo charger and pick up a hitec x4.
Maybe it's just the image quality, but some of those batteries already look puffy.
I've got those motors on two of my four minis, they're pretty solid, I had one that wasn't properly lubricated but I've never received a bad one out of 20.
The ESCs I can't tell you from experience, I've only used 12 and 20 Amp on my minis. I've had decent experience with the hobbypower 12A escs from amazon, if this is your first build, I'd say go with those or a 20A equivalent if you can find one.
30A is overkill for those motors but these spiders look like the only real good escs. If you know what you're doing, these looks solid. Note however: that these are OPTO escs, which means they don't include BECs and cannot be used to power your FC. All of the other's posted can.
Think I should go the extra bit and get the HD camera? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRKE1HA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YQG27D308R23 Would I need to purchase a controller seperately?
this will not bind to a hubsan . It will bind with other receivers though (flysky)
If you want something that binds with hubsan along with others is a devo 7e (read up on modding it)
http://www.amazon.com/Walkera-DEVO-7E-Control-Transmitter-Channel/dp/B00B3OCRTY
Uh my head is pretty confused right now... I acessed this and it showed a product I could get in 2 days... But I swear I had looked the same one a few hours ago and it wasn't available.. maybe I looked into my country's amazon website without realizing it xD
This includes everything you need to get started, but I would recommend getting a few more batteries because flight time is only 10 minutes on each battery and they take 30-40 minutes to charge.
BLADE Nano QX RTF Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SNEJA92/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_CiFZvbHBAJYVZ
Battery Charger Recommendation
or search the web for better pricing.
I personally cannot, as the only model I have is the "L" variant. However, if you look at this item on Amazon, it leads me to think they are all the same:
http://www.amazon.com/ZJchao-Upgraded-Battery-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B00FFXBCV8
Edit: This one kit I actually own: http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1438494065&sr=1-1&keywords=hubsan+x4+battery+tenergy
I do think it is worthwhile. You'll likely destroy your first quad, or lose it up in a tree (as i almost did today, lucky i hit it with a log and it fell 30 feet to the ground and continued working..) so that's why i would recommend going cheap at first. The model i listed which meets your requirements is a step beyond what i'd get, I'd probably just go with http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4GHz-Explorers-Copter/dp/B00MNG37C2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440296704&sr=8-1&keywords=x5c+quadcopter for the simplicity to practice my skills and move on.
I bought a wal mart version for $50 because it was an impulse, i'd get the one i linked above if i were to get another "starter"
I've recently ordered an upgrade but i'm still waiting for it to arrive .. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55106__Quanum_Nova_FPV_GPS_Waypoint_QuadCopter_Mode_2_Ready_to_Fly_.html
Think I'll give this a try. http://smile.amazon.com/Degree-Antenna-Mounts-Multicopters-Drones/dp/B00WV04P62/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1439782429&sr=8-2&keywords=antennae+tube
I also got regular antennae tubes.