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The Focusrite manual on page 17 states you can use TS 1/4in plugs to the line output sockets.
This will work: TS to RCA cable . It shorts the -signal to ground and gives a +/-2V positive output. Make sure the output level doesn't overdrive the Magni. There may be some distortion.
The method in the JDS blog WILL work and will be safer.
If you don't want to wear sunglasses check these out
In short, the balanced connections between the two will put out more power because of the circuitry and voltage. So yes, it will make a pretty big difference. You don’t have to go crazy buying xlr patch cables for it either. The pair I listed below are $11 and will be more then sufficient.
Audio2000'S ADC203MX2 1 ft XLF Female to XLR Male Microphone Cable (2-Pack) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0759Z3D81/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BNE92ZKSG3XMRT62PRK6?psc=1
> MakerBeam XL
Too bad it appears to be in the UK only, I wonder if there is a US-based equivalent solution
edit: I take that back! https://www.amazon.com/MakerBeam-XL-Anodized-Including-Brackets/dp/B06XJ2CMWM
[Upgraded Version] Anker USB 3.0 SuperSpeed 10-Port Hub Including a BC 1.2 Charging Port with 60W (12V / 5A) Power Adapter [VIA VL812-B2 Chipset and Updated Firmware 9081] AH231 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_82MHA005PCV5VPKGS854 Plug it into the powered slot. I use an amazon basics optical digital cord for data.
Thanks! One of the knobs was loose, so I pulled it off, and started googling replacements. After a bit of guessing and searching, I picked up some Guitar Knobs, as they seem to fit the standard knobs fine, though for the SYS, the same knobs don't quite work.
Get a USB-C to USB micro OTG cable.
I bought a little USB to optical dongle for like $20 to hook up my PC to my Modi and it works great. Here's the link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SR7BYD6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi there, sorry the Hel 2 hasn’t worked perfectly! Thank you for the thorough testing and reporting, it really helps us narrow things down. Have you tried using a USB Hub yet? We’ve had some users report success after switching to a hub. Obviously I can’t promise it will work, but I have another customer who hasn’t had any issues since switching to using this hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0KISQE
I’m not certain how we handle international returns. I believe we reimburse the shipping and customs cost of the return trip, but that’s not my department and that’s simply what I’ve seen other users say. At this point in time we aren’t shipping any more Hel 2 or Fulla 4 until we sort out the issues, so don’t worry about having to play the multi-RMA game.
I use this switch for swapping my Hel between my work laptop and personal desktop.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TYDJK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: The DAC can only have 1 or the other as an input at any given time.
Well, that's what I thought at first, but someone else figured out that it was specifically the USB 3.2 causing issues and that seems to be correct from my testing as well. For reference, I am using this Atolla USB 3.0 powered hub.
They come from Mr. Bezos in all different shapes and colors. I learned the hard way when I was in high school. House was struck by lightning and my brand new Xbox 360 got cooked.
Get some blue tack and stick them together https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FGLX72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_526ZMW1X69SWJFXKBHAV
It's removable and you don't need much to get them a little more secure
I had to order different cables because the stock ones were too short for me. Here are the ones I ordered. I've been using this brand for years.
Oh, yippie. An "open letter."
Well, here is my open response.
> Chip shortages are primarily on gpus and more computer oriented products
First off, all of Schiit's products use lots of parts that are common with computers, and more critically, mobile phones. There are a lot more mobile phones. USB and D/A converters for example.
> I don't want an assumption on inventory ... I want a solid date of when it will be shipped
So if they tell you that it will ship on or before December 2021, will that satisfy you?
There is only 1 Apple that has 100% control of their supply chain and the financial mass to keep it that way. Everyone else picks up the pieces when they can.
> start manufacturing in house
They already manufacture their products in-house. Both in California and Texas. It is a FEATURE: made in the USA with parts sourced from the global supply chain.
> Ive read somewhere that 95% of the manufacturing industries are back to normal operation
OMG! And the internet is never wrong! Here. Read this book, The Death of Expertise, and realize you are not a logistics expert.
Mini XMOS XU208 USB Digital Interface Coaxial/Optical /12S Audio Adapter DSD256 It is what I am currently using and it works great so far. Also, it should be interface not converter, my English as usual. XP
Just an update as I have found a fix that works for me: replace the knob!
I replaced the stock knob with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TY32628
It's a lot wider and knurled so it's much easier to turn.
I actually use a tiny schiit sized stand mostly because I like how it looks. But it also keeps modi/magni from sliding around!
I use a USB switch to share my Hel between my gaming desktop and work laptop. This lets me use the mic on both as well as the DAC. Cutover/device detection is within about 5 seconds of pushing the button. You could do the same with Fulla too.
Everything exists. It's much easier to find a two pack of 1 male to 2 female, which you'd plug in to Modi, and then 2 normal RCA cables from that to Heresy and your amp.
https://www.amazon.com/LEIGESAUDIO-Female-Adapter-Splitter-Connector/dp/B07P45DT6K/
Splitters tend to be short with the assumption you'll use another cable to span the distance. Of course Modi and Heresy tend to be right next to each other. So you could get two of these with males into your Schiit and a normal RCA cable in the female to your amp.
https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Subwoofer-Splitter-Connectors-Extension/dp/B01LZVLBY3/
Hello, just hijacking this comment to state that I used a pair of Edifers with my Schiit stack (Modi/Magni/Loki) for a bit until I switched the speakers over to my turntable. They worked wonderfully, and I felt they were quite good for the price.
These are what I have:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P9HJIA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I went back to my Bose speakers I got from Best Buy even those they can't be hooked up my stack because the Edifers sound so good I wanted them dedicated for my turntable, since I primarily listen to music through headphones when I am using my computer.
However, I put this set on my list to replace the Bose speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y6PHKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WawrFbTEHE233
I feel your pain. I bought one of these power cord containers for my setup that houses my power strip and wall warts. They have several styles that can fit your room.
Might check out an Onkyo C-7030 it's on sale for $279..I use it with a Gumby and sounds great !
In that situation you'd have to have the magni on when driving the valhalla, and its volume control will affect the output going into the next amp. You'd probably be better off just getting a couple quality y-adapters like this:
A slight variation:
- No
- Yes, Amazon cables are not as good. If you intend to stack the units then shorter is better. Look in Amazon for better cables like these: World's Best Cables .5m Mogami.
- The Lyr 3 has better detail retrieval and better sound stage depth than the Asgard 3, with the right tube. I own both and now use the Lyr 3. The 9028 dac in the Lyr 3 at £595 shouldn't sound much different from the Modius, it's mostly the same circuitry. If you can get a Lyr 3 only and a Modius that would be better.
Other than getting a good quality USB-A to USB-C data cable of less then 6ft(2M) you'll be fine. Plugging and unplugging the headphone will switch your monitors on/off.
USB-A to USB-C Data Cable as an example, shorter is better.
Hook the Bifrost into the Freya Bal in. Hook the Mani into the Freya SE in. Hook the Freya Bal out into the Lokius Bal in. Hook the Lokius Bal out into the Magnius and the SE out into the Vidar. Put the Vidar on a Remote Controlled Power Socket/Strip. Power down the one you are not using.
Hook the Bifrost Bal into the Lokius Bal input and the Mani into the Lokius SE input. Hook the Lokius Bal out into the Freya Bal in and get a Balanced 2 in -1 out with RCA switch and hook the Freya Bal out to the switch and the 2 outputs to the Magnius and Vidar. Switch inputs on the Lokius and switch outputs on the XLR switch. The Freya becomes an expensive volume control.
Hook the Bifrost and Mani into the Lokius, switch inputs on the Lokius. Hook the Lokius Bal out into the Magnius. Hook the Magnius SE out via a SYS to the Vidar. Switch the SYS to shut the signal to the Vidar.
Since neither the Freya or the Magnius's outputs are switched you need an external switch of some sort to shunt the signal to the desired amplifier.
2 in - 2 out XLR switch with RCA as well. Some come with remotes.
Other configs are possible
I think mine may have been a grounding issue. Based off what this guy says you can test buy using an ungrounded plug
When I connected my Jot2 through that my buzzing/humming stopped. I have this ordered to be a more permanent solution. https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Ground-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2WRPPY0MWBA4M&keywords=Ebtech&qid=1665856066&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjg1IiwicXNhIjoiMi44NSIsInFzcCI6IjIuNzQifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=ebtech%2Caps%2C70&sr=8-1...
I got these. Seem to work just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TVMPF8N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
My Modi came with one nice usb A to micro usb cable, so you should be all set. You'll need RCA interconnects to connect the Magni and the Modi, in case you weren't already aware of that. I bought these and they seem very nice, but there's also this cool mini-interconnect from Snake Oil if that's more your style.
I don’t think it works like that. There are such cables but seems you can’t go from an unbalanced signal to balanced.
> An XLR to RCA cable converts a balanced audio signal into an unbalanced signal. This is good for sending audio signals from an XLR source to an RCA input, or vice versa. Regardless of direction, the result will be an unbalanced signal.
https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Connectors-Shielded-Oxygen-Free-Conductors/dp/B001VLW398
I may have found my answer, but let me know.
https://www.amazon.com/Balanced-Interconnect-Quarter-Microphone-Speakers/dp/B07ZKH8FD6
Is that the sort of thing I'd use? Basically XLR out from the Magnius to the 1/4" L/R ports on the sub, and then the same thing, XLR out from the sub to 1/4" in on the speakers?
> As for the power brick minimizing, I'm not sure if it's worth the cost alone. But I am running out of plugs and have some other PC accessories I want to buy but have nowhere to plug in already so it'd be helpful for sure.
I don't know how many USB power devices, but if you have multiple, then why don't you just get a USB power brick to consolidate?
Your Modi, phone, and whatever else is USB powered would easily run off something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Baseus-4-Ports-Charging-Station/dp/B09VC7Z3YF/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=usb+power+brick&qid=1659062349&sr=8-15
Thank you for the GREAT information and for taking time for detailed replies. For the PC to Modi connection would i use a 3.5 out from the PC audio to the optical input on the Modi? This cable (see link)? I run my phone into the usb on the modi now leaving the optical port or the round port to choose from. Thank you again.
In that case my suggestion is the JDS Labs El Dac II+ Balanced. Unfortunately it's more expensive at $300 than the Modius E's $230, but it offers all of the same inputs and outputs (the balanced output is 6.35mm TRS instead of XLR like on the Modius E, but that shouldn't be an issue with cables like these).
I can't guarantee that it will work better than the Modius E with TOSLINK, but the manufacturer does offer a custom firmware that's supposed to alleviate the issue.
I'll chime in. I'm a General-class Amateur Radio operator. As part of our FCC exam goes, the correct way of dealing with it is by applying a choke to filter out excess RF that your cables are picking up.
Your Modi could be picking up RF signals from its power cord (most likely) or USB cord. Your headphones could be picking it up after the amplified signal leaves the Modi (also common, but you would hear this with the same headphone/cable no matter what you have it plugged into).
The easiest/cheapest way to fix problems of this type is by applying some ferrite core chokes to the affected cables (disclosure: I just linked the first chokes I found on Amazon, and there are better and worse products on the market; what I use is very similar in price and appearance, and works well). To make the most of cheap chokes, I usually make a small loop of the cable closest to the plug, and clamp on the smallest choke that fits the doubled up part of the loop. A correctly formulated ferrite choke should filter out most RF noise in the UHF range (e.g., cell phones).
My Modi MB doesn't really pick up my phones or my radios, so I can't offer any specific advice, but 90% of the time I do end up with RF noise, it's the power cord that needs a choke. I've once knocked a cheap DAC offline with a 50W transmission 5ft away, and I had to put a choke on the USB cable to fix.
I remember my college days when my 2G phone would "thu-thump, thu-thump, thu-thump, bzzzzzzzzz" my subwoofer every hour or so, and man that was annoying lol. So try one of those, and hopefully you'll have some relief.
As an aside, if you can hear your cell's RF noise, your phone is likely working in high power mode (due to low signal, etc.). If you can turn on WiFi Calling (or upgrade your phone to one that can), you would likely never face this problem again.
I purchased this simple 2 input toslink switch box to toggle between my Wiim mini streamer and my tv. Simple setup which goes into my Modius DAC and allows easy remote switching.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L58WMQW?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I thought it could be the cable for me as well but every set of headphones and combo of cables seems to pick this interference up. My old DAC never had this issue and I've tried to replicate the same scenarios. I think the Schiit products don't have shielding of any sort but can't really confirm it without like, taking it apart or something.
Sorry to hear your in ground loop hell. If you want the mic function of the Fulla then you have to use your PC's USB port. If that adds to the ground loop then you may need to use an isolator or switch to a separate USB microphone (I know it invalidates the point of the Fulla). Have you considered the Ebtech Hum X? Ebtech Hum X at Amazon, it is frequently recommended for this sort of situation.
Best.
Get the DAC card for with Asgard. It will make life a lot simpler. I have a 2i2 I don’t use much. TRS to RCA is fine. Something like this will work fine. https://www.amazon.com/JOLGOO-Stereo-Interconnect-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B082X6F6S4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=B24M3VSE7GO2&keywords=trs+to+rca&qid=1655261197&sprefix=trs+to+rca%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhb...
This question is definitely lacking some info. But with what you've provided, I'd probably go for Klipschorns.
I like the idea of giving components some air, and saw somebody else post a picture with these feet that looked pretty nice.
BLUECELL Pack of 4 pcs Aluminum Speaker Isolation Feet Pad for AMP Turntable HIFI Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7S8F3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_W8FM64QYJ5T5QWBP8BHT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think you're right. Editing my original comment accordingly as I learn more.
I forgot I had a multimeter, so I set it to AC voltage tried hot-neutral and hot-ground and neither gave me anything close to 120V at all 3 pronged outlets throughout my apartment. That means there's a grounding issue, I assume, right?
If so, what can I do about this? Would a ground loop isolator do anything? I assume I should just buy the leasing company to send an electrician.
I'm putting together a small list of things I may want to buy or try to look further into this and would appreciate your input: gfci outlet/receptacle tester, another 3.5mm->1/4 inch, bringing the amp into the office.
Thanks for the information btw.
I used these based on multiple posts here for the same purpose and have been happy with the results in cooling the stack.
I used two different sizes of the same type of cable wrap, linked below. I highly recommend, they worked perfectly.
- Alex Tech 10ft - 1 inch Cord... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PFCKM2S
- 6.6ft - 1/2 inch White Cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SQV9123
thanks 🙏 they're sold on Amazon for like $10
BLUECELL Pack of 4 pcs Aluminum Speaker Isolation Feet Pad for AMP Turntable HIFI Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7S8F3T/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_api\_i\_AM89SA0XYYQGBTZ0X05A?\_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
thanks 🙏 they're the Bluecell isolation feet that's sold on Amazon for like $10
BLUECELL Pack of 4 pcs Aluminum Speaker Isolation Feet Pad for AMP Turntable HIFI Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7S8F3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AM89SA0XYYQGBTZ0X05A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are the feet I picked up for it. BLUECELL Pack of 4 pcs Aluminum Speaker Isolation Feet Pad for AMP Turntable HIFI Player https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07D7S8F3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_MV3S375EQG1QF20DGS9M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
so as an update, now mine works again, im using a tp link hub with and i connect to power of it too, also im using a shorter usb c cable for power, i feel like problem is power related, it shouldn't have this problem and i should have it checked by them but in my case i cant be playing the dhl ping pong with this idiots cuz i live abroad... if you wanna check if you have the same problem with yours, disconnect your dac, bot cables, let it refresh for 5 minutes and reconnect, check with different cables, if it works yoy might have the same problem as me
Sorry I linked the wrong one, the one I'm using is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZDDTH2/ref=emc_b_5_t
This works fine.
That one from Schiit should work fine as well.
I'm using one of those right now because the PC38X split cable is too long, it works perfectly with my Schiit Fulla E
Actually this one https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/
but they should work the same
I don't know the details of your cable managment system, but one foot long extension cords often come in handy with power bricks and cable management.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWENWILS-Extension-Weatherproof-Outdoor-Grounded/dp/B0891TSBXC/
Sorry to bump this old thread.. but will a regular TRRS to TRS Y adapter off amazon work like this one with the Fulla E? Headset Splitter Cable for PC, JSAUX 3.5mm Headphone Splitter Mic and Audio Y Splitter Jack, Female to 2 Male Adapter for Game-Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NVM5BZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_86N70NP57ZFH1FWN0AF2
For anyone reading this with the same problem. I was unable to get a replacement part from Schiiit. I found a working replacement part after some long search. It's the ALM091 from NIMO. It's produced in china, the company is spanish. I ordered through amazon germany, but it's available in different european online stores. Roughly 20€ for the replacement.
is your connection grounded? The noise might come from a ground loop.
The website suggests using the Eb Tech HumX https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Plug-Style-Eliminator-Cleaning/dp/B07W682STV/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ebtech+hum+x&qid=1647982257&sprefix=ebtech%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-2
I have an Ifi iPurifier to check if the grounds are OK in my outlets. I'm not an expert I electricity, but hums are usually related to ground loops.
NOTE: Did not come with any mounting hardware.. which I didn't mind, since I didn't want to remove the original feet. I just have them sitting there.
I'm terrible with plugging in XLR (I'm all balanced) and I basically have to molest the stack to get the thing plugged in. Even so, I've not had any problems with the Jot slipping around or off the BF.
​
Saw someone post a picture with this the other day: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091DWGJDW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_0CAPWXV2W7RHPGDTBXNF
I can't find the post but I saved the Amazon link. If you remove the divider supposedly it fits a jot and bifrost perfectly side by side..
Depending on how fancy you want to get, you could buy a Modius, plug the optical out from the TV into the Modius and then run xlr from the Modius to the Jotunheim and from the Jot to the speakers. Otherwise you're going to need something to convert HDMI to analog / RCA without dropping the video stream. Something like (this)[https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Passthrough-JTD18G-H5CH/dp/B074HHSJVN]. Cheap, but you're stuck with 3.5mm to RCA cable bridging to the Jot.
Honestly since you're dealing with a combined HDMI video and audio source to begin with in the PS5, this may be a case where an actual AV receiver or preamp is a better bet than Schiit gear. Google "preamp with HDMI" to get an idea.
Hey!
I contacted iFi and they said it IS indeed compatible with the PS5.
Unfortunately it does not come with the adapter so I just purchased this one on Amazon (a bit longer than just a plug and hopefully will be a decent connection)
Thanks for the advice, saved me $80+ from going with a more expensive DAC V2 or another product like the Mayflower Arc MK2
In order to get more range on your headphone amp's volume pot you might reduce the source volume by about 10db. This however reduces the bit width of the digital source by truncating, rounding and dithering as many low order bits as necessary. If you want bit perfect sources you have to leave the source volume alone.
If the volume pot isn't getting past 9o'clock then going to high gain will only make things worse. If your talking about high gain to begin with then go low gain for more pot travel.
Another option is to get a passive volume control, such as Nobsound passive volume control.
Using a high quality external player program like Audirvana, JRiver or HQPlayer can mitigate the problem by using a more precise 64bit or more volume algorithm.
One way or another you have to get the source volume to a level that allow your headphone amp's volume pot to travel at least through to 12o'clock.
I am using a yamaha aventage receiver into a cleanbox pro.
I currently use this to convert to balanced. May get a freya s in the future.
Why is everyone making this hard? Just buy a volume pot for the pre-outs to the active speaker input.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
I bought a smart power strip. The USBs and AC outlets can be left on or powered on/off by Alexa individually or in groups.
>If I purchase the balanced cables can I use the single-ended output? Or
do I have to buy RCA cables while I wait for my headphone cable.
This kind of confuses me. If you're talking about connecting your Modius -> Magnius, if you're buying (because you don't yet have) Balanced cables (XLR), you will need to use Single-Ended (RCA) until they arrive.
If you're talking about connecting your Magnius to your HD6xx via single-ended (1/4") plug, you simply use the 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter that comes with the HD6xx (or any other similar adapter). No RCA necessary for this connection. You just want a XLR 4 pin to HD 6xx cable (just a cheap example).
If you don't have RCA cables or XLR cables for the interconnect (Modius -> Magnius), you will definitely want to buy some, because neither the DAC nor amp come with these cables.
You can use this adapters to convert 4.4 to XLR. https://www.amazon.com/Balanced-Adapter-Traditional-Desktop-Earphone/dp/B094ZT75PJ/ or https://www.amazon.com/Female-Balanced-Silver-Headphone-Adapter/dp/B082Y6XSSW/
No it doesn't. Just get the cheapest one you can get. The DAC of your laptop/desktop should be pretty good enough, you may not even need the Modi later.
Hi, did you ever find a solution to this? I just bought this adapter from USB-C to mini USB for my iPhone, and it doesn't work even with external power to the modi.
Yep, just some cheap socket savers I got on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WJ3H71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As for the tubes, I'm just using stock tubes for now.
Early results of the new power supply are positive, no popping crackling or stuttering yet but that may change. For reference this is the USB brick I ordered, and I am using the stock USB cables that came with the Hel as the new ones have not arrived yet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZJFBDNL (Despite being listed as 5V/2.1A the actual specs printed on the brick are 5V/2.4A).
>USB 3.0 to micro b cable
The micro plug is different on the 3.0 cable. It's wider and in two sections, so it doesn't fit a USB2.0 jack. USB 3.0 to micro USB
My pleasure. First though...I have upgraded the feet of my Sol with sorbothane feet similar to [these](sound addicted subble 1.2'' (4 pack) silicone feet isolation for amplifiers, decks or any other audio equipment, non-skid hemisphere with adhesive (sustain up to 24lb) | subble https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FD8TRPD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_3B2FQMKPPNA2RM449AYG). This may throw off the ideal height of the stand. I can either share the 3mf file and you can adjust it to best suit your setup...or I can do it, but you'll need to share with me the exact distance from the top of the platter to the surface that your Sol sits on.
Not much to worry about. I have an Eitr, Modi 2ü and a Modi 3, fed from a Note10 or a desktop PC. For the 2ü and the Eitr, I use this cable and for the 3, I use this cable. I've had no problems with either
Good solution. I use this power outlet that turns on my Schiit when another device gets powered on.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002K8S2J6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Your modi can act as a switch between the raspi and computer without need for a sys or 2nd dac. I’d recommend a simple usb to coax adapter for the pi. I use this one but there are others out there Douk Audio USB Converter XMOS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085XPRSGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Computer usb -> modi usb -> Loki -> magni -> powered speakers/ headphones
Raspi usb -> adapter -> modi coax -> (rest same as above)
Edit: I can send pics if my -> thing isn’t making sense.
I think this is right, except that it's more correct to say the SYS will switch between the headphones and the speakers. It's one button to send the output to the speakers or the Magni. There would be no way to send the signal to both.
At $150 for the Magni and SYS I think that's about the cheapest I'd consider... you could find a cheap-o RCA switch like this instead of the SYS, but who knows if it'll degrade the audio: https://www.amazon.com/Bi-Directional-Switcher-Selector-Splitter-Speakers/dp/B098PY8YBY
I'd stick with the SYS, and it's going to look better under or over the Magni.
There are very minor sound differences between Magni 3+ and Heresy. You really need to listen for it and even then, you may not be able to discern the differences. I certainly didn't and I've owned all three versions of the Magni (3+, Heresy and IEMagni).
Theoretically, the Magni 3+ is supposed to have a "warmer" sound due to it being a discrete design. Regardless, both amps measure very well and have inaudible distortion. You really can't go wrong with either option. Neither ran hot either. Maybe slightly warm but not definitely not hot.
It really comes down to aesthetics.
There is an Amazon exclusive option for a black / grey Magni 3+ if you still like black and grey.
Hope this helps and good luck!
I have the modmic cable plugged into a 3.5mm female to 2.5mm male adapter which then plugs into the headphone port of the HD 599. Is this my problem is that this 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter is the problem? Looking at this adapter, it seems like it is a TRRS plug.
Why doesn't the Schitt Fulla E work properly with a TRRS plug?
I posted a link to this adapter here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Z2MPW61?psc=1
USB C Cable, Anker [2-Pack, 6 ft] Type C Charger Premium Nylon USB Cable , USB A to Type C Charging Cable Fast Charge for Samsung Galaxy S10 S10+ / Note 8, LG V20 and Other USB C Charger (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC5PPFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_214BSVH41EG57EM2CPTT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Any 230v in to 15vac out power brick with 1.5amps output and the right (possibly 2.5mm barrel) connector will work. Try your local Amazon or a music supply store. Does the Modi you have require an an AC power source or is it USB powered.
No Schiit dac will play SACD data. The SACD data layer will have to be converted to PCM by the player before sending it out a coax connector.
You may find a higher quality used SACD player for under $500 but something like this Sony will play SACD and Audio DVD over it's HDMI interface. Sony UBP-700M
I was recently made aware of a black Magni 3+ version that they sell on Amazon.com. It is exclusive to Amazon but perhaps your best chance at getting a black Magni 3+ sooner instead of waiting.
I like these worlds best cables between my magni and amp. 3 Foot – Directional Quad High-Definition Audio Interconnect Cable Pair Custom Made by WORLDS BEST CABLES – Using Mogami 2534 Wire and Amphenol ACPR Die-Cast, Gold Plated RCA Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALHY04I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SV205AYMMGW8Q6NTP450
There is a couple things, not that this will help:
- I'm using a Modius > Loki > Magni.
Long story short, I had a lot sound issues with my Razer laptop, so I connected the Magni directly to my PC when I first started. It was good, but there was ALWAYS some type of line noise. The more volume, the more noise. I thought getting a Modius would help alleviate that using USB. I did a lot of troubleshooting, never really found a good reason, my only thought was a longer than usual USB cable. (Or grounding issues). So try a really short cable for a few moments since I'm guessing you probably have a 2m cable to get it up to your desk.
It made it "better" but at 50%+ it was almost terrible. So, then I switched to using Optical. Everything got 100% better.
THEN I got a new motherboard that didn't have Optical, all my issues came back. So, to be short and blunt, I don't think Schitt's USB DACs are built with Gaming-PCs in mind. But, I dirgress, it WAS better on the front and every once-in-awhile, I had to move it. I ended up getting a USB to optical convert (Hard to find cause it was basically a DAC https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085XPRSGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it helped a lot. (THis is still a DAC, so ya know.. YMMV) It made it about 90% better, but still had some issues.
​
Then I got another new motherboard, this one having optical I've got it running to my Modius, once again. 0 issues, sounds great.
​
Long story short, I was really interested in trying a SoundBlaster sound card, but since my computer was a Mini-ITX I didn't have a spare PCI slot, and all SoundBlaster USB-based DACs have headphone adapters, so they're running a DAC.
I ended up using two of the 20 lb strips (overkill, but it's secure) to mount my Vali 2 wall wart. I didn't plug it directly into the power strip though; what I did instead was mounted it directly to the underside of the desk beside the power strip. I put the command velcro strips on the flat back of the wall wart and mounted it with the prongs facing down towards the floor.
Then, I used a small single-outlet 1 ft extension cord to connect it to the power strip.
When you use the velcro strips, make sure that you press on them for 30 seconds to adhere them to a surface, and then don't put any weight on them for at least an hour. If you don't do this, they might un stick from the desk to the thing you're mounting.
Hello and thanks for your post.
I have a WYRD connnected to a PC over USB (USB signal cleaner) connected to a MODI Multibit which is then connected to VALI 2 tube which are connected to two active speakers.
Sound is great and pure from the speakers, however when I connect my headphones in the VALI 2 to the speakers of course fall silent and sound moves to the headphones but the speakers cracle and hiss.
Here's a video showing what happens. https://www.jottacloud.com/share/7o6d9ac83dd0
There's still some avalible on Amazon if anyone is looking for one, sold by Schiit, shipped by Amazon, 10 dollar upcharge per usual. https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-IEMagni-Headphone-Amplifier-Preamp/dp/B0932LBTTP
Got em and set it up. Works great and you can leave the headphones plugged in (and on whatever volume you want). These are the cables I got: LEIGESAUDIO 1ft 1 Male to 2 Female RCA Y Adapter Splitter Connector (2 Pack) (1 Male to 2 Female)(1M2F) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P45DT6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H00YGVQK9KEVZ30YSCK6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How about these:
Balanced XLR Cable Male to Female - 0.5 Feet (6 inches) Blue - Pro 3-Pin Microphone Connector for Powered Speakers, Audio Interface or Mixer for Live Performance & Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9QC6V8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QX8SFYZ5ZHDV2H5B1XBX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get something like this first. Find out what switches feel good first, then buy a keyboard full of ‘em. Keycap til your heart’s content.
AKWOX 9-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester, Keycap Puller, Keyboard Keycap, O-Ring Sampler Tester Kit https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01GZHU1EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8YR0AVYX7GEVY4CWD3XB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Any xlr will work however it is best to use an 110 ohm aes ebu cable for sound quality. i tried both couldn’t tell the difference. this is the one i got.
Mogami 3080 AES/EBU Digital Audio Cable | XLR Male 3-Pin to XLR Female 3-Pin | Neutrik Gold | 3 Feet | Blue | Assembled in The USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SHC9TVF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_97D01QGK2A3P45QKYC45
Schiit, as far as I know, will be transitioning to USB-C on each new product design. The Modi will need an update with the use of ESS dac chips so a USB-C connector is likely.
When will Apple drop proprietary interfaces and use an industry standard USB-C? Your problem hooking up an iPhone isn't everyone else's problem, it's Apple's. Finding a USB-C to micro-USB OTG is not hard - MicroUSB to USB-C OTG. Small companies, not pursuing niche markets tied to a major manufacturer, can't afford to specialize in licensed proprietary technology. Schiit doesn't want to pay license fees for their products.
[I usee this at my office](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091DWGJDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I have the Asgard 3 tucked under two monitors (not pictured), which doesn't have as much ventilation as I'd like. It also turned out to be the optimal location for reaching the volume or EQ knobs. The ventilation is not the best so Asgard 3 gets very warm with a few hours of use.
I found a cooling fan from Amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08MPH1W4J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can get them as a single pack or double.
The fan can blow or draw air depending on the direction (e.g. face down vs. face up). I have it drawing air from the top vents of the Asgard when it gets too warm. I only need to use the low setting to keep the Asgard cool. In terms of noise, it is inaudible during operation, even with open backs.
If you have limited space. You could probably try something like this. Someone from there posted the same thing and it looked good.