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The most popular reviews in /r/StainedGlass:
Please, please, please... just sit down and spend the effort to learn the basics of a proper art tool. It's not really that much more effort to learn.
PowerPoint isn't made for stuff like this. You lose out on an unimaginable amount of tools and abilities. InkScape and GIMP are free tools that anyone can use, they have lots of information out there on them and won't limit you at all on what you can do. Plus you can grow into it if you don't feel like commiting to many parts at once as you can do most art glass work with a tool or two right away.
At first I try to do it by hand but it keep breaking badly. Then I gave up and got the ring cutter and made my life 100% easier. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I3Z6JY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Thats the beauty of using cames, they come in a ton of different sizes so you can find a thinner one. They also often times extend outward rather than inward if you want a thicker border without covering the glass for example this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWKFA40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_LCbXFbKV3816F
Or you can just use regular 1/8th inch came of you want a thinner border: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLPMCD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_7CbXFb6246245
I have no use experience with that but I do know it has many versions with varying degrees of options depending on what level you have. I would download InkScape and give that a shot instead then you won't be limited on options.
Plus InkScape isn't an obscure program so finding tutorials and info about it will be easy.
My shop is in my basement. I don't have a window so I installed an exhaust fan that is hung over my soldering station. It uses a standard 4" dryer vent hose.
I'm sure you can find something similar like a bathroom exhaust fan.
I didn't want the fumes accumulating in my basement since that's where the heat/ac unit is located.
If so, then that’s a great iron to start with. Don’t use a wet sponge on the tip though, a brass wool tip cleaner makes the tips last sooooooo much longer.
I don't worry too much about the lead solder. Its the fumes from the flux that I vent to the outdoors. You can open a window or door and use a fan to move the fumes. There are fume extractors available that suck it into a charcoal filer. https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WSA350-Bench-Smoke-Absorber/dp/B000EM74SK
I'm sure there are other manufacturers of the same type of device.
I have the Hakko one on order, but with the USPS being messed up it’s been sitting in Michigan for three weeks. I got The Weller 100w for Amazon for the time being and it’s quite good though the tip is huge. Amazon has it for $70. You can get different tips. Weller W100PG Weller Farenheit Heavy Duty Soldering Iron with CT6F7 Tip, 100 Watt, 700 Degree https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I7X7ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_38o8FbR6K651M
I wear gloves like these when I grind https://www.amazon.com/HAUSHOF-Nitrile-Working-Gardening-Restoration/dp/B085188KYP/ref=zg_bs_3480678011_sccl_44/146-9828878-8172640?psc=1
This is what I use to make hanging rings: pre tinned wire
Try using a polishing compound like this: https://www.amazon.com/Liva-Stained-Glass-Polish-12/dp/B00HHCXGO6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=stained+glass+polish&qid=1668981667&sr=8-3
You apply it, let dry then polish with a cloth until it’s smooth and shiny.
I order this lead came off of Amazon. Only my second time working with it, but I really do like the thin border for it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095WS3GX3?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
>glass cutter for cutting bottles
​
There are quite a few on Amazon, check out similar
I use braided wire to add thickness to outside edges. It will also strengthen your piece. Just add solder until you can't see the braid.
https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Bar-Braided-Tinned-Copper-Restrip/dp/B00791YLKI
It is glass, he just had the price wrong ($92). Mass produced with typical mass production shoddy soldering. https://www.amazon.com/River-Goods-Cardinal-Stained-Window/dp/B07YNYQ7LK/ref=asc_df_B07YNYQ7LK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385194985827&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=332304206115365897&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvd...
Make sure you burnish! Burnishing tools are pretty cheap and make a world of difference. Make sure you press the foil firmly down on all sides(front, back, and edge) around every piece of glass. You want to make sure the surface is smooth and even, corners included
Tips needs cleaning. Get a steel wire soldering iron tip cleaner. I have been using mine for 7+ years, no issues ever. Never use sal ammonic block or anything. Clean tip every few seconds.
This one AIMEILI No Wipe Top Coat Soak Off U V LED Gel Nail Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJ24GTH/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_G5EH2QGVRNNPRTT4J514?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Probably my technique given I don't wear nail polish, but just seemed streaky. With the 303 I get a better spread and more clear.
So sorry, I guess I didn’t get them from Amazon! But the pattern is called Flora and usually it’s vintage! Here is another set I got that included one in it. Hope this helps! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W5RS563?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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not cheap, but this is what I have and love it
Not my elbow so much specifically, but I feel like I have to apply an incredible amount of pressure to get the cutter to properly score, which causes me all kinds of pain and fatigue in my fingers, hand, wrist, forearm, and shoulder. Maybe elbow too, and sometimes my neck even... I've tried less pressure ,but it just hasn't worked for me. I have RA and maybe I'm just weak, myself, but I think with the cutters I've tried (all pistol grip but slightly different models) there's just something that doesn't work well for me.
So I'm going to order one or both of these to try; both have another point from which you can apply downward pressure from between your thumb and index finger as you hold it. I think it will allow for less strenuous application of force and hopefully more control. Have you (or anyone) tried either of these? Toyo thomas grip supercutter (has a saddle-looking part) or Toyo custom-grip supercutter (has a sort of perpendicular protusion)
And to the commenter who mentioned the ScoreOne device thingy, wow, thank you for that! I am quite intrigued and if my new handheld cutter doesn't make things easier enough, I am pretty relieved to think I could buy that and hopefully have an easier time of it. it's pretty pricey but worth its weight in gold if it allows someone who can't otherwise do the task to succeed. very cool
I have a digital weller that I can change the temperature on. I've tried anywhere from 550 F all the way up to 850 F and I usually run into the same problem. But maybe that's just me cause the last time it happened I did smell something weird which was probably the adhesive getting too hot.
The solder I'm using is canfield silver gleem which melts at around 450 F. Sometimes it takes a while to melt and I have my iron in the same place for a while, maybe that could be burning the adhesive even though I don't have the temperature cranked up?
The foil itself is not very sticky and it's pretty thin but it's also rated pretty high by people on amazon who use it for stained glass which has me sorta confused given the problems I'm having with it but I also just started so I don't know what good foil looks like.
I found a link on Amazon for something similar.
I have the fan plugged into a power strip with my soldering iron. When the iron is on, so is the fan. I mounted the fan onto a 2x6 that allows me to moved it up and down if needed. I really don't move it though. It sits above my soldering table and is vented to the outside with the 4" dryer hose. If you want a photo, I can post one.
I was thinking of using a used over the stove exhaust vent bit they seemed too costly and didn't move much air in cubic feet per minute. I looked at bathroom exhaust vents too and they too were expensive and didn't move as much air either.
If you don't want to go through all the installation effort, there are fume absorbers available. It sucks the fumes into a charcoal foam filter that you dispose and replace.
There are a lot of Hakko fans out there, and probably with good reason though I've never tried one.
IMO, if you're in the market for a damn good iron, I recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-W100PG-Farenheit-Soldering-Degree/dp/B002I7X7ZS/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=weller+soldering+iron&qid=1660496911&sr=8-6
I've been using them professionally for years. They take a ton of abuse.
You are looking for Lead U Came (hobby came). Not only does it give the piece a finished look, but it also strengthens it. https://www.amazon.com/Cascade-Lead-Round-Rolled-Bagged/dp/B00UXQD9S6/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?crid=MCED6QJN2CJ5&keywords=hobby+came&qid=1660354230&sprefix=hobby+came%2Caps%2C381&sr=8-14
I use this chain.
It’s aluminum so it can’t be soldered to, but it doesn’t rust. Or at least not for a very long time. I use jump rings to attach it to pieces.
Your best bet is a local stained glass store if you have one. You could also order online, here's an example from amazon. You want U-channel zinc came. It comes in various widths but whatever size you get, for borders you'll need the u-channel (the glass edge sits in the "U.") Good luck! https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Came-24ft-Into-Pieces/dp/B07XJ7RRYD/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2DKGM4NZYFPPR&keywords=zinc+came+3%2F8&qid=1656554802&sprefix=zinc+came%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-5
I bought this LED light pad a few weeks ago, and just wanted to pass it along to everyone here - it's on sale for about $20 cheaper than I paid for it! It works really well and is even all the way across. I've been cutting right on top of it, and all the little shards show up really well too so it makes cleaning even easier!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09HCVXXGF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
It looks like you had a decent sized bead of solder around the whole thing. Some areas are a little thick so you could probably use that amount on a longer line. Also, be sure the heat up the whole line when blending it into a joint, it’ll make those corners nice and smooth. The most important thing I can think of is to burnish the foil really well to the glass. Make sure it’s firmly pressed on the glass and wrinkles are smoothed out. You can get a burnishing tool pretty cheap on Amazon.
I'm not sure what brand it is. I got it as a gift. It looks like this one:
Gloves, plus these keep dexterity
I use a grinder cookie, but I also found these gloves on Amazon...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LSJRBX0/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_JZCQ5EV3TXT7GQS17JQ0
They are thick and mostly resistant to tearing, and the little bumps make it easier to hold wet glass. Plus wearing them I can still feel what I'm doing. I had tried those tips for my fingers but didn't like them.
I’m sorry, wrong link… Miramar Bronze Brown Linear Pendant Chandelier 56" Wide Modern Tiffany Style Leaf and Vine Square Art Glass Shades 3-Light for Kitchen Island Dining Room House High Ceilings - Robert Louis Tiffany https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZDMPCS7/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_A9QS16ZYWQG782W6EVAY
There are some "faux" stained glass paints out there, along with liquid "lead" lines.
I'll be honest, though, I've never seen it used in any way that looked good. Maybe it was just the execution, but it's always looked cheap and plasticky to me. But it exists, so give it a try!
and thank you for being receptive to them. I think you're going to do great and one more recommendation is this tool!
It's extremely handy to have.
Here are some great soldering tips link
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This is what I use.
Copper Foil Tape (2inch X 33 FT) with Conductive Adhesive for Guitar and EMI Shielding, Crafts, Electrical Repairs, Grounding https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6YLNYL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_GM7R63W2BS8EMY7HF2ZG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
3D Carnauba Wax - High Gloss,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007RS49K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is what I use...it has a mayo consistency. It's cheaper than the stained glass specific brands and it does a nice job.
OP, this is the stuff you want. this is black patina, they also make a silver and a copper. Make sure you invest in some latex gloves.
I don’t know it this is compatible with your grinder but this type of thing exists.
Personally I just hold the sponge in one hand to the bit while grinding with the upper bit
Sure! I'm not really loyal to any brand. I also prefer a thinner foil so these might be too thin for you but it's a good starting point.
3m 3/16 Black Back Copper Foil](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0096D6IKI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_C33GQF7HMX1Z9Z03ZM5X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Car wax works well, but if you really want the solder lines to shine after you apply patina, apply simichrome (silver polish) to the lines and then buff to a really nice shine. Make sure to give your patina time to dry for about an hour or two.
You have two options for image editing/creation.
Vector Graphics or Bitmap/Raster Graphics.
They have their pros and cons for working in each space. I highly recommend you use Vector based options as it allows you to scale images without the lines becoming an issue. Also vector based art allows you to do more with it.
Inkscape is my go to program. As it's in the vector format.
Otherwise I use GIMP for whatever else as it uses bitmap.
Both are free and open source. Don't pay for anything just to create simple patterns, there is tons of free options if you have troubles with either of these. Even whatever simple drawing tools included on your PC/Tablet will be enough in most cases.
As your comment says most of the lines are to keep the flow so in that case, Nope you can't simplify it any more. This is how it works! Lots of parts for any inside details.
An Aside, I hope you didn't buy GlassEye. InkScape or any other vector program will do fine if not better for free. You could even use GIMP if your really need to.
Amazon had 000 steel wool for sale as a mouse barrier on a roll 5 lbs for like $34 dollars. I use it for all kinds of projects.
I use two of these, laid on their side for me sheets:
Marbrasse 5-Trays Paper Tray Organizer, Wooden Desk File Organizer Letter Tray Storage Shelf Sorter for Office Home Supplies (Cherry Color) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086HFDSLN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_E9TVEC637KCP5XNZWYZ7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I ended up getting these: Sterilite 19638606 Large Clip Box, Clear with Blue Aquarium Latches, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJGW6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EFJA3RMZF8CZV9BH3TV2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They’re big enough to hold full sheets that I have and thin so there’s no wasted space. I don’t have a lot of room in my house to store things so these worked out really well. Plus having them be thinner stops me from putting too much in and dropping them. Thanks for the suggestions!
Very nice! I was tossing some ikea frames and decided they’d make excellent light boxes, a “someday” project! My hubby recommended these cool lights for it. led lights
I use enamel paint on my glass for small details, haven't tried lettering before as I'm not that great with brushwork. FolkArt multi surface paint works really well, you just need to bake the pieces of glass before foiling/soldering. I got a multi-pack on Amazon, although local shops will likely have it too!
Wow. I didn't even think of it having a leak. My "shop" is in my unused storage shed by my driveway. We moved everything out there, so if some glass dust goes everywhere - it should be fine. I'm not wearing like flip flops cutting glass. I've been trying to be extremely careful with all of my stuff, because my oldest two are in there trying to help me out (youngest 3 not allowed inside). If we all need to get helmets and stuff, I'm going to do that. I don't want someone losing an eye or needing stitches or anything.
I have a file I've been using to grind some of my okay pieces down. Is that not okay to do anymore?
I hope I can make something soon, too. Husband and MIL have been all over me to pick up my hobby again. This is something I've been bitching about doing for like 10 yrs and not able to do it. We bought our forever home 9 yrs ago, and I made sure to bring all of my glass. It's all been sitting there forever, and the kids finally were like "Mom, I'm cutting this for you." It's been a surprising journey for us. They are all so invested for me to get back into it all.
I'm really hoping I can start making some stuff soon. If anything, I've taught my kids how to do it all. That's the plan, basically.
I live 3 hours from a town, and that town does not have stained glass anything. I've been ordering everything online. Glass has been expensive, because of the shipping. Lately, we've been wasting a lot of it to try and figure out how to fix my problem.
I've been using this Toyo one mainly. I also have this one. Neither are working for me. While I want my kids to learn about stained glass, they are nowhere near my original level of cutting, prior to the hand issues.
My oldest has been able to cut some of the stuff, we've been mainly practicing on throwaway glass. I'm at the point where I can't even hold a pencil and write correctly. It's painful to even type out responses.
I did show her what you wrote, so she can learn a bit more about it all. I've told her 90 degrees and to make sure not to wiggle, like I do. She has been able to cut a few pieces, again not many and lots of waste. She's brand new to this.
I also...want to do it again for myself. If that makes sense. I miss being able to make my stained glass, and my MIL (lovely woman) has requested a piece for either her birthday or Christmas. I've had 5 months to work on it, and I was only able to have my daughter cut out one good piece so far. The rest is basically my/my daughter just wasting glass and shards everywhere.
Waffle grids. Creator's Waffle Grid 2-Pack - Seen On HGTV/DIY Cool Tools Network - 100% USA Solid Bottom Modular - Glass Cutting, Small Parts, Liquid Containment, Grow Room, Medical - Home, Office, Clinic, Shop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHD0MJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G8MY7S9S2GEE82RM6599
I had the same concerns, and bought this. It's not too noisy, is easily positioned, sucks the fumes away to a charcoal filter, and keeps me from breathing them directly. I feel safer.
are you trying to use running plier for small pieces? You can use a small breaking pliers , they are different than grozing pliers.
I first bought these jump rings to start so I had some options & just tinned them before hand, hold it w pliers right on a solder join in the back & blobbed some solder on
I've got a room in the basement where I work, no windows or ventilation. I've got a fan that I use when I'm soldering, I think this one.
Every time I have a physical, I have them test for lead. So far, it comes up with nothing. I wash my hands when I'm done, but really don't take any other precautions.
I’ve always had weller 100’s but can’t remember what the “d” is for... they do get pretty hot. but you can get a temperature control to adjust your temp on the iron. They’re good when you’re doing lead came work since you need a less hot iron then. rheostat
As much as I'd like to say get a cheap iron, I can't.
Cheap irons lead to frustration, there are fine for people wanting to test out if they like glass but not much else. Are you a registered non-profit? If so when you get closer to being ready to launch I'd reach out to Hakko North America and see if they would be willing to donate some irons or get a lower cost on purchasing some irons. It's worth a shot.
Glass grinders the cheapest are Gryphettes from Gryphon corp. 60-80$ per grinder IIRC, Though depending on how you plan on attaching this you could likely get away with fewer grinders than students as some will inevitably be slower than others. Second hand grinders are dirt cheap though so that would be the best route. If you are going to have space requirements the Gryphette is the best option. Just get a single larger grinder incase it's needed.
You don't need specialty fume fans, get some cheap box fans. If you are worried about filtering stuff out buy activated carbon filter material and place it on the back of the fan. https://www.amazon.com/All-Filters-CP-6005-Cut-Carbon-Purifiers/dp/B000U204W2
Do you really need a ring saw? I'd advise against it to start with, get it as an upgrade down the road unless someone wants to donate one. None are cheap and all there consumables aren't cheap either.
I'm not talking about sheet foil, Like a solid chunk of copper. https://smile.amazon.com/Copper-Sheet-Metal-Scraps-Lead-Free/dp/B07RNNY34R/ref=sr_1_2?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Copper+Sheets&qid=1613076665&s=industrial&sr=1-2&ts_id=11260304011
This or something perhaps a bit thinner would work too.
Sounds like your iron is too hot or you are working one area too much.
I use these for details like that: glass paint pen
Its cheap and comes in a bunch of colors. They work pretty well but they can be scraped off, which can actually come in handy with detail work sometimes or if your line was a little wonky. If you clean it with alcohol relatively soon after applying it will come off but once its cured or dried or whatever its pretty solid as long as you aren't rough with it lol
Something like this used wet will sand your edges smooth
My studio is in my basement with no window. I searched online for an exhaust fan that moves a lot of air and could be connected to a 4" dryer style hose. I installed a dryer vent to the outside of my home and connected it to the 4" hose. I mounted the exhaust fan on a vertical bar so I can raise and lower it.
I have it plugged into the same power strip as my soldering iron. When the iron is on, the fan is running.
I did look at bathroom exhaust fans and kitchen over the range exhaust fans. They were expensive and didn't move as much air.
I went with;
Its not too noisy and easy to install.
So I just got here but I think I can help.
PLUG IN TOOLS -soldering iron -glass grinder
HAND TOOLS -glass cutter -glass pliers
SUPPLIES -stained glass (obviously lol) -solder -copper tape -flux -patina
Here's some links to hand tools. Just look up all these things with "stained glass" infront of it. Oh and gloves and goggles are always a must!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFZXF3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ilUZFb1NTTPF6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1GX42C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_LoUZFbA5FMZFE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the support! The bits are actually 2mm diamond cylinder bits intended mostly for dremels. I did a bit of experimentation and settled on 2mm, because 1mm breaks really easily and 3mm is too slow and wastes too much material. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Grinding-Cylinder-Coated-Mounted/dp/B07S6T3ZRP Yeah the noise is loud enough to hear on the next floor up. I held off until I moved out of my apartment. Earplugs are a must.
Thanks! I made the wood pieces, it's just rounded over squares glued to one another. I bought the light fixture and power cord on amazon but I think Home Depot has them too. Here's a link to the bases I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQRY5M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi I’m searching through older posts for info on paint and I have a question for you. I just bought this and although it’s the same brand you mentioned, it doesn’t say 160. So this isn’t the kind you cook, right? I just need to do two little pupils, so I don’t need anything too crazy. And if this isn’t the kind you cook, do you not recommend the one I got? Thanks so much in advance!!
Hi! Darn, so I really can't find something with different tips that'll work for electronics and stained glass? I found some thicker tip ones for the one i was looking at and was hoping one of these would be wide enough. Do you have any opinions on this or would you still much recommend the Hakko?
https://www.amazon.ca/Types-Stainless-Soldering-Replacement-TS-D24/dp/B07HG4VRFR
Also good call on local.
Not sure about how the iron's temperature fluctuations. You will need a steady consistent temperature for whatever solder you will be using. 60/40 and 50/50 have different ideal temperatures. The Hakko is what I use but not sure about using it on circuit boards. You might need different sized tips.
Yeah, Ive found with most hobbies the tools worth buying.. are investments. Regardless, keep practicing and eventually youll get the control .. and it will be a sudden 'easy mode' =) And you are right not to use that iron =/ that sounds bad. You might beable to get a heat controller for the old iron you have, allowing you the best of both worlds - functioning vintage!!!
And I would say some of the seams between glass are a bit too big. With that much metal between then pieces, when you go to apply the bead after the initial construction, It'll either all melt, or have really unpredictable heating characteristics.
Its curious, i showed my Mom r/stainedglass in an attempt to make Reddit seem less.. Less reddity, and here ive found one of my new favorite subs.
Keep it up!!
Thanks for your help! And I've been using this solder station: Solder Station It seems to work nicely but I didn't realize when I bought it that the temperature was in levels, not actual temp (I was working around the 6 range). Claycorp chimed in, wrong flux! I'll be running by the store tomorrow to get some better stuff!
This stuff!
https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Restrip-Reinforcement-Stained-Glass/dp/B004DINQF6
You lay it in between the glass, along the normal solder lines, and just solder as normal. It acts to help stiffen the entire glass piece. For example - if you have solder lines that extend top to bottom, that could act as a hinge - a weak point where the piece could bend or fold. So you'd use the restrip on a few "left to right" solder lines that cross the top to bottom to help prevent this. If that makes sense, good! LOL it wasn't the greatest explanation, if you need, I can post a picture.
Thanks, I saw the Hakko recommended elsewhere, will have to see what I can get with a UK plug/specs
I had a look at weller irons as I saw them recommended, theres this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Weller-SI120-T0051807799-Heavy-Soldering/dp/B0001P17A6
Its about half the price of the light blue 100w weller iron.
It doesn't come with a temperature dial, is that something you can run it through later on as an addition?
I'm not sure if this is available in the UK but I splurged on a Hakko FX601 and have no regrets. I heats up fast and maintains the proper temperature.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX601-02-Adjustable-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00FZPSX3G
For copper foil work, use a 60/40 solder. ( 60% tin, 40% lead. ) it stays in a liquid stage longer for smoother solder lines and has a lower melting temperature than 50/50 solder.
I use a liquid flux as its easier to clean up than a paste prior to applying a patina.
As for a cutter, that's a personal preference based upon your hands. Go to your local supply shop and try them out. I still buy a carbide cheapie cutter and get replacement wheels for $5. Maybe some day I'll check out a Toyo cutter but for now its too expensive for me.
Thanks, coincidentally I was just looking at the tempsford weller model before I refreshed the page.
I assume you're talking about this one:
https://www.leadandlight.co.uk/100-w-temperature-control-iron.html
Do you know what model it is so I can take a better look?
The tempsford one doesn't seem to come with a temperature dial right? I'm not sure how necessary it is for working with the different materials.
There's also this one I found on Amazon from weller:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Weller-SI120-T0051807799-Heavy-Soldering/dp/B0001P17A6
Hmm... I have a gyphon gryphette grinder from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Gryphon-Corporation-GRYPHETTE-Gryphette-Grinder/dp/B003GF707M
... I think I'm already pretty aggressive putting probably too much force on it when I'm grinding and I get impatient. (This is not when I crack things... it's always when using grozer pliers to get off some excess glass). I do a combination of pushing forward and left to right, mostly just trying to figure out what's faster. Maybe I just need a new bit? But I've barely used the bit as it is... How often do you need to replace them?
I was looking at stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-9036-Stained-Glass-11-5oz-Cobalt/dp/B01HP2IG5G the were others but that’s a easy ish one to find? Just looked at videos of the painting ones, looks hard!
Thanks! Definitely helps.
#4 I havnt gotten the glass to crack from heat, but im sure at some point. For sure tons of foil unraveling though. And ya, you guessed right. By too thin I mean the copper foil not spread out on both sides.
#5 Paint Type, but I just kind of picked whatever was at the store that said for glass. Definitely let me know how the acrylics work out!
I've also had my Dremel create hairline fractures in the glass from matching harmonics when I tried to use mine for polishing came back in the day when I first started. I'd just get one that's meant for glass. One note, don't just let the motor run if you aren't actively grinding glass. If you're going back and forth from your work surface (like across the room or more than a step away), always turn the grinder off and then back on. If not, you'll burn out your motor quicker.
I've had two of these and I've never had a problem with them: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Grinder-4-Inch-1-Inch-Accessories/dp/B007UDTT16/ref=sr_1_3?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1485464041&sr=1-3&keywords=Glass+grinder.
I have a room in the basement that I use. It's best to have a hard floor - no carpet - because of cleanup. My floor is just concrete and it's perfect. For a work surface, I have an old bookshelf that lays flat on its back on a table. That way, it's flat and there are low walls all around. Inside there, I use a waffle grid for cutting on. It works great. I've also got my grinder in the bookshelf, too.
Then I have an old kitchen table I've outfitted with plywood for soldering and assembling - along with a fume absorbing fan so that I don't get lead poisoning.
Here is the one I have. The only reason I bought a new one is because on my last one (which was over 30 years old), the screw on the bit stripped and I couldn't get it off to replace it. I figured it had provided enough service to warrant being replaced, but otherwise it was fine. I think it was a Wizard brand.
This is what our studio has traditionally used, it is also our biggest seller (probably because we recomend it) I am putting the amazon link for ease but I highly recommend going in to your local stained glass supplier, they are there to help and love giving helpful advice and tips .... maybe it costs a couple bucks extra but you're supporting someone's passion and giving a boost to a drowning industry. btw yes as you get better you may work hotter I prefer a 900C tip but I go over my lines once and move on because yes your glass will definitely break lol
while i was pregnant, i wore nitrile gloves and a ventilator mask (like this. I changed the filters like once a month, and carried on my merry way. Got it at Home Depot. Congrats! and stay safe! EDIT: fixed my link...