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This comment has been deleted by the owner. I would encourage everyone to reconsider your participation in Reddit and all other social media. These platforms are not about connecting the world together or propagating knowledge. These platforms are designed to be highly addictive, behavior modifiying machines that by their very nature make us more anxious, fearful and hateful.You are not their customer. You are their product.
Bad crop year plus "all natural" product demand.
XTRATUF Legacy Series 15" Neoprene Steel Toe Men's Fishing Boots, Copper & Tan (22271G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018AIWQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bgBZCbRRHY8F0 Waterproof, durable, comfy, and the steel toe is a must if you want to keep all your toes.
I'm a tinsmith and I started my career in custom stainless fabrication and I currently work in a plumbing and heating company. I was self employed in my trade for about 3 years at one point with employees. I'm currently a shop foreman. I made myself a 1/2 barrel brewery in my garage
Edit I would hate to ruin my love for my hobby
As always when this stuff comes up I like to plug Etymotic's cheap concert earplugs. They come with a carrying case to keep them on you so you don't have to plan when you'll need them, and they keep the music sounding good. And if you have them on you all the time for concerts then you also have them when it gets loud at work.
We'll I just signed up for the IAP course. It looks interesting, and after reviewing the course outline I hope it will build on the information I've read in the below books.
It's also an $100 course so I don't expect to leave here learning a terrible amount of new information, big believer of getting what you pay for.
I will update the thread with a review after the course.
http://www.amazon.com/Brewers-Guide-Opening-Nano-Brewery/dp/1470087960
I don't work in a brewery, but I have priced glassware before (I'm a scientist, and for one of the teacher reddit elf match up, I got matched with a science teacher). You might find some stuff cheaper on Amazon than Fisher or VWR. You might also find some useful things on American Science and Surplus
its probably going to come down to who ever used it first.
this article has a similar example to the situation above. https://moz.com/blog/how-screwed-am-i-another-business-has-the-same-name-as-mine
Avery has this presentation about doing it with a mass meter.
I've also heard one brewery's procedure to do it by intuition, check cell count after KO, if you're under pitch more, if you're over don't worry about it.
Don't know about the solenoids for the liquid side of things. I had to replace the CO2 solenoid and they recommended this one that you can order at Amazon. If you PM me I can also send you the info they gave me on settings and the last software update and instructions if you don't have those. Below are reset instructions for the PLC which may help with the password.
Instructions to reset PLC touchscreen.
1.) On the main screen press and hold anywhere on the blank screen (anywhere there is no existing buttons)
2.) Select info mode
3.) At the password prompt enter 1111 and press enter
4.) Select the working mode button
5.) At the bottom right press Init
6.) Click Yes to confirm when prompted
This will clear the PLC memory. Once the system is restarted you will need to go into the menu and set the following:
1.) Alarm duration will be reset to 0. Enter your desired time.
2.) Water flow. Reset your system multiplier
3.) Temperature probe. Scale should be set to 0.1. Select Fahrenheit or Celsius 4.) PID. Enter Proportional 10, Integral 10 Derivative 0, Sample time 100
Not sure if it has prime but the Canadian site did. Keeps telling me it ships to Canada. Lol
I suggest you buy and read Dick Cantwell's book.
https://www.brewerspublications.com/products/guide-to-starting-your-own-brewery-2nd-edition
Pro tip: Amazon has it much cheaper.
Snarky Comment: If you think it's too expensive, then you don't have enough money to start a brewery. :)
We bought one of these off amazon for zesting fresh citrus (usually added in whirlpool in muslin bags): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X9EPT0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It works well, is fast, and leaves all pith behind.
A great start would be reading and understanding the fundamentals in these books:
Tasting Beer, 2nd Edition: An Insider's Guide to the World's Greatest Drink https://www.amazon.com/dp/1612127770/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jq5zFbPJ4W0PW
How To Brew: Everything You Need to Know to Brew Great Beer Every Time https://www.amazon.com/dp/1938469356/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rr5zFb5G5SGT5
While not directly Cicerone material, Randy Mosher helped lay the groundwork of the Cicerone certification along with Ray Daniels and Lyn Kruger.
A lot of core fundamentals of what you’ll find the first two certification levels (Certified Beer Server and Certified Cicerone) can be found complementary to each other within both books, so they’re a good cheap way to get your feet wet and see if you’d like to follow through on the path to whatever Cicerone level you have in mind.
Hope this helps.
You need some knee high socks my dude
My personal favorite: Thorlo Hunting Socks
Image J is free and easy to use. You can install the cell counter plugin from NIH to manually click and tally different bins (http://rsbweb.nih.gov/ij/plugins/cell-counter.html).
For a cheap ocular based camera, I recommend amscope. We are talking $80 if that is all you want.
Thanks for the feedback, ibrew!
you can add labels for each beer style (up to 3 characters) so that they appear on the dashboard. These can be added in the beer style menu in the preconfiguration of fermenting tasks. Let us know if you need help with that.
Yes, these are being removed in the next version that will be released soon.
Both are in a securely hosted environment. You can fine more information here: https://www.heroku.com/policy/security
The tanks are ordered first numerically (if a number is entered first) and then alphabetically. If you need to change the order you can enter the names in a way that will order them accordingly. Let us know if we can be of assistance.
Cheers!
Power Query is native to Excel 2016 and later, but if you are still running an earlier version, you can download it for free.
Microsoft Power BI Desktop is also free. BUT is Windows PC only.
If you are already using Excel for tracking anything in the brewery, these tools will make your job a lot easier. Tables, Power Query, Power BI are your friends.
That looks like a reasonable option, but unfortunately Untappd isn't in Zapier's App Directory. I've never attempted to integrate anything with Zapier, but if Untappd is still a two-man shop, unless there's a decent value add by doing it (or it's super easy), I don't know how feasible it would be.
But I also don't work for Untappd, so it would still be something that /u/gregavola would answer.
Do you mean actual Stelvin caps where the capping head forms the threads?
Stelvin ROPP caps are really complicated. Really complicated. I have a 300 page book on my shelf (it's called Taming the Screw) that goes into deep, exhaustive detail on everything you need to ensure that your caps are properly applied, will open with the correct amount of force, and are actually forming a seal against the lip of the bottle.
A big part of ensuring a good seal is applying the correct level of consistent downward pressure while the cap is rolling on, all while keeping the capping head totally straight. It would be impossible to apply (or at least apply well) hand using a drill.
If this is a product you're handing out to friends or good customers for free and the stakes are relatively low, a hand drill applicator might work. If it's something where a poorly-applied capsule might cause a poor customer experience (spoilage/lost carbonation), I wouldn't risk it. Good seals are hard to do right unless you have a good capping head that's calibrated to your specific capsules and bottles.
I used a drum switch to be able to reverse it if I ever needed to. Haven't needed it on the 328G. https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Drum-Reversing-Plastic-Handle/dp/B000LDH90A
I had originally tried to use a VFD to avoid the coupler but nothing reasonably priced worked for the motor. It would be on or off, nothing in-between. The coupler and spider were maybe $60.
If you're planning on getting a camera just stick with a monocular. I have a binocular and it's really nice for viewing especially doing the long count method but if you can just get a camera. It's so much better.
There are plenty of decent ones on Amazon. Omax is a good brand.
Promotion Set: OMAX 40X-2000X Lab LED Binocular Compound Microscope with Double Layer Mechanical Stage + 100 Glass Blank Slides & Covers + 100 Lens Cleaning Paper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094JTZOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SDnwxbS0A9GYK
For a hemocytometer... Don't buy the shitty $30 one on Amazon. It fucking sucks giant donkey balls. I had that one and I seriously wanted to crush it repeatedly with our forklift. Buy nice or buy twice. Get the $130 one from sigma Aldrich. Bright line. Make sure you have the proper coverslips. Not your regular ones that come with the microscope. The sigma one comes with 2 I believe. Don't lose them or break them!!! You can order more though if it happens.
it's a common tool. Grainger has 'em: https://www.grainger.com/category/spanner-wrenches/wrenches/tools/ecatalog/N-167t
make sure you get one the right size. They also have kits that don't have the hinge, but you get a number of fixed size wrenches.
If you're handy with a cutting torch you can make one.
Note: In the UK, a spanner wrench means something else. At least it did as far as the service manual goes for my old '66 MGB.
Edit: A hydrant wrench might also work, if you have an industrial supply around.
https://www.amazon.com/Water-Comprehensive-Brewers-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381993
however you run the risk of getting over ridden by a new hire that says "this is how we did it at my old place"
This thing is bonkers, any unit in any form of measurement is in there, including Tun for volume!
ConvertPad: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mathpad.mobile.android.wt.unit&hl=en
They have things that direct spillage, mostly meant for chemical spills but I can’t imagine it wouldn’t work for water. Not the prettiest thing to lay on your brewery floor though.
https://www.amazon.com/SpillBlocker-Barrier-Dike-Yellow-4/dp/B00BUC7W76
recommend getting a heavy duty one with a "drain" plug in front... makes wheeling it over to somewhere and empting without popping the top easy-peasy.
also, highly recommend breaking it down if anything gunky was used so it can air dry otherwise itll start smelling like the used grain bin
Get yourself a good boot/glove dryer as your feet/hands will thank you for it.
Wear your dust mask around grain because long term daily exposure will give you the equivalent to black lung in coal miners.
Pay attention when one of the other brewery people is trying to show you how to fix/maintain the equipment. Do not be afraid to point out things that need fixing from day one such as leaky pumps, loose hose fittings, water wasting leaks, odd/grinding sounds from motors.
That's the one I got.
Heater function works ok, although I find it a lot easier to put in some hot water and use it to maintain temp. 10 min cycle time seems to work great. its had no issue with caustic or acid so far
This is what I was going to suggest. Add one to the gas line to to control every tap gas pressure and there a blowtie without a gauge (this) that can go on your beer line closer to the coupler than the tap.
This works with 5/16 lines. You'll need converters if you have different lines. Incase you have a 3/8 line get (this)[https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Frlbs.ltd.uk%2Fmedia%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct%2Fcache%2F3c8aadc63736b2f7cd504d7301d8769f%2Fw%2F-%2Fw-2300004001.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Frlbs.ltd.uk%2Fflow-control-3-8-x-5-16.html&tbnid=ahOY0...]. You'll need to a 5/16 line none the less.
The solutions depend on your system. If we get a clear picture as in the line o.d., line length, we can definitely figure it out.
Cheers
We've tried nearly everything. Finally our pest control co turned us on to this. It's legit the only thing i've seen work 100% of the time. Just spray it near the drains of the area you're having trouble with. Get it and worry no more!
It might be a bit of a silly solution, but this works for me: https://www.amazon.com/SMALLRIG-Adjustable-Friction-Articulating-Monitor/dp/B087T4T8D5/?th=1
I clamp it to a post on the underside of my depal, and it reaches out to the twist rinse. It's doesn't reach very far, so you'd need something close by to clamp onto. And the other clamp opens just wide enough to grip onto the print head of my Domino AX150i, so that would also be something to measure first.
But if you can make it fit, it's not a bad cheap solution.
We had the largest one that amazon.ca would sell and we'd use caustic probably around 5%.
I think this is the one we used. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07F1L89GT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_701TEKZM8D8RZQCSRY5V
We were using the largest one that amazon carried which right now is this one. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07F1L89GT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_701TEKZM8D8RZQCSRY5V
In terms of length, five minutes was usually more than enough. If I had more stuff in there, I would do longer. Usually it was set somewhere between 55-60c with 5% caustic. I'd then throw the parts back into a bucket and rinse with HLT water.
I would also try to rinse off the major shit from the parts. Try to keep the caustic fairly clean.
If we were cleaning parts with Brett on them, we'd do a caustic cycle for like 15 mins then switch the ultrasonic over to acid and do the same length. Generally, we'd consider that clean and reintroduce the parts into normal rotation. Gaskets and some smaller things would be set aside for autoclaving though.
A shop vac works great. I would highly recommend getting a dust separator for it though. something like this snaps on to a five gallon bucket and will save you from constantly replacing your shop vac filter.
If you search for hard shell case theres lots in any size, you can cut the foam inserts to fit whatever you need to put in there. I make beer at a couple different breweries so have a little mobile kit with an easydens, Bluetooth pH meter, etc.
Rather than a microscope with a camera, buy a cell phone adapter mount instead. That way you can take a photo, and you can count whenever you have a few spare minutes - phone is always with you.
Like one of these: Gosky Microscope Lens Adapter, Microscope Smartphone Camera Adaptor - for Microscope Eyepiece Tube 23.2mm, Built-in WF 16mm Eyepiece - Capture and Record The Beauty in The Micro World https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07412S738/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JNW9KPWTQZSJCSHQ9TA5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can get a mount for your phone for about $20-$30 on Amazon, works great
Swift Microscope Lens Adapter,Smartphone Camera Adapter Mount, Microscope Accessory (Fits 28mm Eyepieces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RY4YL3H/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_3WBVFMCXBVKT4529YVGP
https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Dam-Indoor-Water-WUB210-12/dp/B071Z2C9B9?th=1
I use a similar product to these since our floors are not properly sloped towards the drains. Keeps errant water out of where I don't want it and easy to move around and reposition. The rubber types work too but if you get too big of a puddle it'll just seep over or under. These seem to be really good at redirecting the water even if its a big release of water from the HLT or something.
I got the one that's 160 but I also have small carb stones.
I've had these for a year now, and I love them. Composite toe rather than steel, highly breathable - I never get stinky, sweaty feet, yet I can stand in water 3" deep and my feet stay bone dry. They're comfortable enough that I can wear them for 10-12 hours straight, and the zippered side allows them to be donned or doffed in like 3 seconds. Good treads mean I don't slip, even on a slick floor covered in yeast, beer, and water. And they look like normal enough boots that I can wear them anywhere. They're pretty much the only footwear I wear anymore - working, hiking, walking on the beach... whatever. Best boots I've ever owned - highly recommended.
Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation (Brewing Elements) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0937381969/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_CPRFQB80BG7KRN00Z511?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Will teach you a lot about the biological side of brewing. I used to do yeast cell counting and wrote a guide. Reach out to me if you'd like more help with that.
Yes, I would say you’re using the wrong fittings. At minimum, a barb going into the hose, threaded into the fitting(s) going into the FV, Teflon (blue monster over the white generic/ home use type), plumbers putty (we used Tru-Blu from Rectorseal), stainless connected to stainless (other metals will have a chemical reaction when not with like metals). The glycol is under pressure. Worm clamps will probably not hold up long term, Oetiker clamps also can have leak issues, but may work better. The plastic is also going to shrink at a different rate than steel.
So, maybe first, if investing into stainless isn’t an option, get the tape and the putty. See how that works & check your work clamps often. Glycol isn’t cheap either.
You can buy a flow meter with a solenoid valve for less than $100 on Amazon
Cheap and simple, effective and accurate
This is the one the mobile canning company we use has for their 70+ lines across the east coast. It’s waterproof.
The previous brewery I was at found one open box. I would guess if you look through similar products starting with this one, you have a decent chance of finding something similar & also open box.
VisionTechShop TVS Portion control Stainless steel Washdown Scale, Lb/Oz/Kg/g Switchable, Low Profile Design, 6lb Capacity, 0.001lb Readability, Single Display, NTEP Legal for Trade Coc #19-058 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKBTGJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0JFXVBX7JXESNMH8HFJY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Does anyone have a suggestion on a zwickle cleaning brush?
I use them to ream zwickles (with a light caustic solution) before iso and flame for aseptic samples but the brushes I get from Amazon fall apart very quickly and I'm afraid that the twisted wire portion of it is tearing up the inside of the zwickles
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TNN3YS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One of these lasts me about 3 weeks
>Could you put the link for that by any chance?
i couldnt find my exact model, but this one is really close. Holds about a gallon of water. I dont use any attachments, just jam the hose in the top of the barrel and "seal" it closed with a clean rag to trap as much steam as possible. I have been using it pretty regularly for almost 2 years.
We use this handheld printer. I don't use it personally but the guy who does doesn't hate it too death so there's that.
We'll be ok. Been through a couple before, but not this big.
This is the view from the webcam on the roof. So far the patio railing is still visible https://www.wunderground.com/webcams/Stumptown/1/show.html
I successfully completed a Kickstarter campaign to HELP open my brewery.
If you approach it with the goal being marketing, you'll be fine. It's to HELP you. Not directly finance your project. We made some money. Got some swag out. Helped to generate interest in the project. Keep your expectations realistic and it can be a huge asset. The ones that you see fail are the ones where XYZ wants 55K to completely finance their project. We went after 8K and got it all.
Sure that's a drop in the bucket of the overall project but it was worth it.
Here's the proof.
https://castbox.fm/vb/182324776
This episode of the Master Brewer's podcast is where I heard about it. A couple of guys from Community Beer talk about how they built it and the testing they did to judge its efficiency.
Gilmour 855022-1001 50502GP Industrial Water Nozzle, Adjustable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7V1REE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2ECN040PNFJW2QRDNYWR
Been using one of these on my hot washdown hose for three years now. The hold open clip wasn’t worth much, but otherwise it’s been extremely reliable
I second the super kleen sprayer. Although I also got one of these for blasting gunk off the kettle and fermenters and it’s the best $4.50 I’ve spent.
Sweeper Nozzle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AJVEF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YE1QN3SWFHZRBFM1C5TP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0163BYLD6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_GM619S0Z9D0A9HMT9Y9M
So like #9 in that picture? I just did that and it flows! Need to dial it in and let it pressurise but you are awesome
I fund a good addition for patio heaters.it redirects the heat and is ‘warm to the touch’ on the back side.Meaning, you could put the heater next to a fence or wall and it wouldn’t melt your siding. We can keep our Garden Sun patio heater turned down 15-20% less and get the same heathttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GLWS8SQ?ref=myi_title_dp
I would recommend you to use Agado as this software allows you to manage all your projects in a very efficient way with time tracking built in feature. This is best possible software that can help your company very fast as you can not manage your project but can also track the time you spend on your project and can prevent time loss.
Disclosure: I work for Agado
I use Power BI. I have all of my data in Excel and in Tables, and I can easily import a folder full of files as if it were a database. It also takes other database sources. It's pretty flexible and has a lot of customizeable visualizations-- ie I can compare attenuation of one SKU between months, tanks, and yeast generation. And it's free.
If our brewery was 10x bigger, I would probably look closer into the PerfectPitch... I'd take a slight hit to accuracy to be able to do it on the production side of things, in realtime, cone-to-cone, with very little training.
I've thought a few times of setting something up similar to what is outlined in this presentation, https://prezi.com/sdbjwozln30d/taking-control-of-cone-to-cone-pitching/ but I haven't found an appropriate mass-flow meter, but admittedly I haven't looked very hard either.
EDIT: Actually something like this might work: https://www.instrumart.com/products/40475/krohne-optimass-1000-coriolis-mass-flow-meter#!description
Best ones I’ve found so far. Flexible but not thin and shitty. Got some grip too. DS Safety Nitrile Coating Chemical Resistant Glov... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTS1MYD/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_9QFDED9Q7D52NQBRRBGD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the tip, I picked up this one and it works perfectly: Wiha 26074 Slotted Screwdriver with PicoFinish Handle, 3.5 x 60mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T9W172/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_V3GKDKXAG70VN2RPWYDB
I really dig the standard 3m anti fog glasses. They're cheap but comfortable and the only glasses I've ever forgotten I was wearing until my kids made fun of me a few hours later. Buy a bunch of granny glasses straps for your staff and they seem to last several weeks/months longer because they're less likely to fall on the ground and get scratched up. And if they do, who cares? They cost you $1.50.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Protective-Eyewear-11329-00000-20-Anti-Fog/dp/B007JZD8TO
Gloves I like Atlas Vinylove 660s (blue ones) paired with nitriles underneath for stinky glove protection.
I kinda hate the rubber boots so I've had to deal with trying to find the right leather for the environment. I've tried a few expensive boots that fell apart instantly. In a pinch I went to Sierra Trading Post and found some Wolverine Gore-Tex boots for $60 that have held up for a year now and aren't showing any signs of failure. Really impressed since I never considered Wolverine to be that good.
Working in wine, people swore by Blundstones or Redbacks.
SainSmart 1 Axis CNC Servo Stepper Motor Motion Programmable Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NJA38A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_N5PJAH81RBKV9YY1NZQK
STEPPERONLINE Nema 17 Stepper Motor Bipolar 2A 59Ncm(84oz.in) 48mm Body 4-lead W/ 1m Cable and Connector compatible with 3D Printer/CNC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PNEQKC0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_T5HSSJT15QAMN8MZ8YTV
That controller will allow you to add in more features and sensors, if you get into it
They make several different models of the Monarch labeler, we accidentally got one that can't do dates (at least not with year). It's been a minute so I don't recall all of the model numbers, just double check the example prints.
Ended up with this one and it can do both price or date and setup is the same as the Monarch. It also comes with a few extra ink rolls and label rolls.
We tag each paktek and call it done.
We picked up a set like this and love it. Makes quick work mixed with a nice cordless drill.
I just get generic wicking hiking cargo pants from Amazon. Am allowed to wear shorts at work but these are cool enough that I prefer them. Duluth Trading Co has some great options but as a woman finding something that isn't yoga pants, fits, and doesnt break the bank is a little more difficult.
https://www.amazon.com.au/NoCry-Resistant-Wrap-Around-Protection-Adjustable/dp/B01AWK1XAS
I've used these for about 6 months, really comfortable, don't notice I'm wearing them until I get something on them.
These are pretty much standard issue. I've loved mine, as long as you don't pierce the sole your good 👍
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07456SBM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_VG7XHYT4FDQYCJF6AE0F
Tenacious tape is what I use both for repairs or for rugged hemming. My wife will usually sew my hema but I don't like waiting so I will usually cut them myself and then put this on. 6 months later it's still there, it protects the ends. Some of my pants eventually get sewn right on top of this some have never been sewn.
We switched ours out to these and they work great. Make sure you get the auto-close valves. https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-Stainless-Electrical-U-S-Solid/dp/B06XCN8V6W/ref=sspa_dk_typ_pt_comp_1/140-1242419-0168602?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XCJZ9SD&pd_rd_r=7987426c-63fa-4454-9c3c-07ade9fe4de4&pd_rd_w=1JTYU&pd_rd_wg=TcA7B&pf_rd_p=3b6586a8-f490-4d4c-8b6b-69493d14432e&pf_rd_r=KYBY2PJJ2NYZHVTZ8K2E&refRID=KYBY2PJJ2NYZHVTZ8K2E&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUlY1UTNVQjIzMFM1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQ1MTExUUJMRDBTTUZCRk5YJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0ODE3MDYzNFI4Tjc2UldUWldJJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfdHlwX3BlcmNvbGF0ZSZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
I think you could just get away with a food grade RV hose until you can get the tanks plumbed.
Seems to basically be homebrew scale so I'd recommend any dual stage CO2 regulator and a 5# tank. $1000 USD for 5 kegs and regulators is A LOT of money. Not sure why you'd need 5 regulators.
It is incredibly hard to tell from that video but it looks like CO2 is blowing out the top of the regulator. Make sure everything is tight, there is no pressure relief valve open, and you don't have any fittings missing.
This is also about as cheap as I would go with a legit basket. You would probably want to bring it in and out in any inclement weather. They make baskets that are meant to stay outside in anything but they're much more expensive. I've also seen something called Kan Jam that isn't a legit disc golf target but its also only like $40.
Got a pair of CAT Stormers a month ago and I'm really digging them, less expensive than the Muck Boots I had before, but similar in that they're a steel toe rubber boot with neoprene up top so it doesn't scrape your shin to shit. Also came in a 6" boot, which I prefer since I wear my pants over them anyway.
"Tasting Beer" by Randy Mosher (https://smile.amazon.com/Tasting-Beer-2nd-Insiders-Greatest/dp/1612127770) is required reading for anyone serious about beer and brewing IMO. It sounds basic, but Mosher digs in deep to the essentials in a entertaining way. I've found it really helped with my recipe creating.
I was bought this one last Christmas and I think everyone of us at the brewery has a copy.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0306472740/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_rKJYFbYX7E8BD
If he likes Belgium beers then “Brew like a monk” is cheaper, a good read, some interesting insights and some recipes in the back.
For recipes building “Designing great beers” has been the most useful to me.
I bought this cocktail / tea shaker off amazon and it shakes cans like a charm. Doesn't even require modification to fit cans. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYMDHA0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
...not sure why I was downvoted for making this suggestion.
I once bought my assistants a semen based cookbook and a semen based cocktail book as Christmas gifts cause I was a little drunk on Amazon one day.
Felt a little guilty when I saw the receipt in my in box the next morning, but they loved them.
Def not going to work for all staff though.
Currently unavailable, but I used to use these inline CO2 heaters when I was using high-pressure 50# CO2 tanks.
Since getting a bulk liquid tank, I haven't had any issue with regulators freezing, even when canning or keg washing, which uses a ton of volume.
I'm in the same boat. We signed a pretty short lease and the landlord did not want to put in too many floor drains just in case we move out in a couple years and a future tenant didn't want them. Also... they're fucking expensive and COVID hit right as we got to that part of construction. If we survive, we may go back and change the drain type to accommodate. For now, we are using these "dams" to redirect water/waste into the drains. You can use multiple dams to make sort of a catch basin where you can direct hoses to dump and it does a decent job of containing most of the flow. Still need an army of squeegees... but that's for any brewery lol.
Interesting, that's hotter than I expected. I expected at that heat that they'd nuke a lot of the essential hop goodness. I have a Ninja Foodi that has a dehydrate setting that should work in this case. I just figured it was too hot for hops. Maybe after work tonight I'll grab a few handfuls of the hops that are mature and see how it works in there. As I usually have enough to fill about a few large mixing bowls it's gonna take a bunch of batches anyway.
I got myself a few pairs of Red Kap Shop Pants a few months ago, and they're the best brewery pants I've found yet. Wide enough to go over boots, but not so baggy you look like you're making a late '90s fashion statement. Heavy duty without being too weighty or hot. Strong and durable, but you can actually bend your legs enough to do the kind of climbing we don't tell OSHA about. Lots of pockets. Would recommend.
3/8"pitch, 1/2"width, 56 teeth, 21" pitch length : should be able to use those specs to find it from any place that sells timing belts.
shop around for price and double check the specs against yours to be sure, but that's what I got.
Carhartt is a little too pricey for my brewing salary. I get mine off Amazon. This brand has done well for me in the past.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005AIZ9E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_btf_t1_wJ.pFbDTV3S2R
Evaluating Beer from the Brewer's Association is a really good resource. It might not contain all of your requirements though. But do not let the ~200 pages fool you, this is a very information rich and technical book.
They are these. Or atleast look identical to them.
We bought a box of 100 from Ali baba.
I use this one to spray foam the floors and tanks.
This “food hoe” and this handle work great for us. We do have a plow to push out most of our grain, but this helps clean up the last bit.
I would totally sell your brewery owner the sensor/alarm I'm pulling out to put in the new one, for like $200, it's an Analox AX50. The system I'm installing is like $600 including the actuated CO2 shutoff valve, though it'll also take some of my and an electrician's time to properly program and install, so that gets more expensive. The AX50 I'm pulling out doesn't require any electrician work other than providing a 120v outlet.
You can also get personal CO2 monitors like this https://www.amazon.com/CO2Meter-AZ-0001-pSense-Portable-Quality/dp/B0042L3ZDC/ I think I've found them for ~$100ish rather than ~$150 with some searching.
I’ve had three of these at three different breweries. Works well for weighing out malt. Haven’t really beat it up with kegs or anything too heavy but don’t see why it wouldn’t hold up well enough.
Jennings SCJSHIP332 JSHIP 332 lb by 0.2 lb Scale https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MCZQX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RLuqCb40EHA4X
Making the switch to rubber as my leather boots just get eaten up in our brewery. These are being shipped to me now and I hope they are comfortable/ hold up!
As for inserts, Dr Scholls will give you some cushioning but if you're like me and need arch support, check out Powerstep and Superfeet. They usually last longer than a pair of shoes so you can just transfer them to your new boots!
So this is the one I have.
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Its honestly not great, nothing like the ones that hook up to the air compressor as well. But it works, shoots a fairly good stream of foam. And now the boss likes it enough to want to get a good foam gun.
I've been titrating total acidity for 3 yrs using this one. It's been solid
Ajax Scientific Borosilicate Glass Buret with Teflon Stopcock, 25mL https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00EPQ3NBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mFR.BbPBT9M18
I use Beer Calculator and I love it. What's really nice is I can do quick and dirty ABV calculations without having to convert to SG. I only use the Plato-Brix-SG converter and ABV calculator though, so I can't speak to the rest of the app.
We use a honey pump. https://gabees.com/product/maxant-l400-1-gear-honey-pump/
Heating blanket helps makes things flow better. https://www.amazon.com/Powerblanket-BH55RR-100-55-Gallon-Insulated-Thermostat/dp/B004HL24H0
Looks suspiciously similar to the one I use (and really like) but there’s a substantial price difference:
Milwaukee MA887 Digital Salinity Refractometer with Automatic Temperature Compensation, Yellow LED, 0 to 50 PSU, +/-2 PSU Accuracy, 1 PSU Resolution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z4ITWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1E3hBbT09C604
I bought a few of the cheaper aluminum body "tactical" flashlights on amazon, but the clicker always failed on them within a few months.
I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/Police-Security-Extreme-CAGE-Flashlight/dp/B016097LX8 about a year ago, and it has been working very well, and I have dropped it onto the concrete at least a million times. Batteries seem to last a long time too.
I honestly thought that "the cage" was a gimmick and that it would break on the first or second drop. I'm actually impressed.