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The most popular reviews in /r/beetle:
https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101
Following the guide in the book, buy some tools and a box to keep them in that will fit in the rear window well. Then do the basic tuneup. Learn how to set your valves, and why the number 3 cylinder's valves should always be set looser than the other cylinders. Figure out how to advance and retard the distributor. Figure out the proper method for changing your generator belt.
Then you'll want to learn how to do all of that by feel with your eyes closed, so that, some dark night, you'll be able to do it all on the side of the road. Bugs are not unreliable, but they pick the damnedest times to do janky stuff.
Just posting a photo for the mobile reddit users out there. Got them ready to go!
Ad & Photos http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1801829
If you’re referring to what the wrench is on, then yep that’s your fuel pump. It’s possible the diaphragm inside is not working properly, and the unit needs replacing. You can buy replacements at nearly any of the popular parts sites for supers like jbugs, cip1, Wolfsburgwest, to name a few. It should run you about $20-30 depending on what year your Super is. Fairly easy replacement.
As to the stalling at stops and lights, I would be more inclined to take a look at your carb, specifically the idle jet. Open the top of your carb and look into the bowl. If you see any kind of debris or grit in the bowl you would be best served to clean out your carb thoroughly, including removing and blowing out the jets. You can get new carb gaskets from the same websites. Also not expensive.
The larger problem is if you are getting grit in your carb. Do you have fuel filters installed in your fuel lines, and are they installed with the flow going the right direction? Do you have fuel lines that are old and crumbly? Do you have debris in the bottom of your gas tank? None of these things are show-stoppers and parts are available to fix them all. Depending on your time and resources it’s best to go from easiest to fix (clean out carb, check/install fuel filters), to more difficult (remove fuel tank and replace or refurb/run steel fuel lines wherever possible).
I am not sure what book you’re using, but if you don’t have a copy of the Bentley manual I highly suggest you get one. It’s essentially the VW bible for how these things go together and come apart.
Volkswagen Super Beetle, Beetle & Karmann Ghia Official Service Manual: 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, https://www.amazon.com/dp/0837616239/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_1BgdGb3SFJ5YA
Replacing speakers is easy enough. Just find a set of speakers you like and make sure they match your system's specifications. I personally have these and they have no issues. You'll also want to check your wires that run from the radio to the speakers as well. If there's still problems after checking and potentially replacing all of that, it could potentially be something with the radio itself.
My knowledge comes from a decade of hands on experience and with being active at thesamba.com forums.
As with everything, there are pros and cons to each choice. The main issue with poly urethane is I don’t know of a quality manufacturer these days, Bug Pack was good but I haven’t heard good things since they were bought out by EMPI. I rebuilt the entire front end of my 71 Super (completely different setup) with Bug Pack (pre-EMPI) urethane and I had no complaints.
The common complaints with urethane are: Squeaking (I didn’t have this problem but it’s a common complaint) Poor fitment (I have heard this complaint specifically about the needle bearing bushings, but I believe this is due to lower quality in manufacturing and QC)
But if you find good quality stuff, in my opinion, urethane is a great option.
For traditional bushings and bearings make sure you get good quality stuff as well or you’ll be replacing it again in short order.
The other things you’ll want to look for is, ball joints, tie rods/ends, steering damper, wheel bearings, and shock absorbers. A good exploded view (along with quality parts) can be found here: https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/front_axle/front_66_77/front_1966_1977.cfm?type=1
I also recommend picking up the blue Bentley: https://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Beetle-Karmann-Service-Manual/dp/0837616468
It gives great walk throughs and pictures of everything.
I’m looking to rebuild the front end of my 69 sometime as well, so once I do that I’ll probably have more insight into the process.
A good under-seat powered woofer is probably all you really need, but you should check dedicated forums for your beetle. This sub is more for old beetles, the kind that still use air-coold motors.
But I'm sort of a car audio buff, so I can't help answering. Try something like this https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-SS8P-Under-Seat-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B079PRCP9W/ref=psdc_1294866011_t3_B0068XYNH4
Frankly, no idea, the shrink tube had it pre-installed.
It's meant for air-tight sealing and that works well with cars, motorcycles and boats.
A link to local shop selling so their terminology is ... hmm... interesting sometimes. But that's the same I've a large roll. Not expensive either.
Also available in amazon with proper terms (I think at least): "Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubing"
https://www.amazon.com/270-pcs-Adhesive-Assortment-MILAPEAK/dp/B0771K1Z7Q
I did most of the electrics on my ghia restoration project and we shrink wrapped all spade connectors we replaced (so many) and most of the others too.
I have two of these in my car:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-A118-Stealth-Dash/dp/B00NG84AT0
They work fine, but I'd recommend getting something newer, like the A119 that was posted here already. A118 is 'only' 1080p. The sharper, the better.
They should be M5 bolts with a 0.8 pitch, M5-0.8. These would probably would but they might be a bit longer than required.
Buy John Muirs idiot manual it’s a great read and the art is hilarious also pick up a Bentley service manual for your year, don’t bother with the Hayes one. If you can turn the pulley by hand great! Drain all the old gas if it’s been sitting for more then a month and change the fuel filter if the is one. Drop the oil and clean the screen if some of the studs pull out don’t fret, while you are under there clean any leaves or grass out of the nooks and crannies put the pan back on and fill with the correct amount of new oil. Take the air filter off and see how many spiders are living in there. Lift up the back seat and prop it up good because if you turn it over and the starter won’t stop with the key you wanna be able to pull the battery cable off. get a compression tester pull all the wires and plugs and label them to each cyl with tape. check all the cylinders compression they should all be within 10% of one another if it’s ok ie 100+psi. You can check for spark at this point too by putting on plug in the wire and laying on the tin where you can see it and getting someone to crank over the engine a few times don’t put the plugs back in until all are checked for comp and spark. If everything is still good. Put new plugs back in her. change the cap and rotor and clean up the points with some emery cloth if they are corroded , change new wires one wire at a time to the cap and then do the wires one at a time so you don’t mix them up. change the fuel filter if it has one and inspect any rubber fuel lines and change any that are questionable, don’t forget the one under the tank in the front(I would change them all anyways) Clean any leaves and stuff from the engine bay don’t forget in behind the fan shroud.. put gas in it and check for leaks EVERYWHERE If it starts great! If it doesn’t start you need 3 things for a gas engine to run. fuel, compression and spark. Good luck!
Wife got it for me. Not sure where he got it, but there is one on Amazon if you want to give Jeff your money: https://www.amazon.com/Paladone-Classic-Commuter-Travel-Mug/dp/B06WWRM5J2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=vw+bus+mug&qid=1589308056&sr=8-2
assuming your throttle shaft has NO play in it (vacuum leaks)
Get this rebuild kit. Best quality 100% nice thick gaskets, and quality rubber seals. (also the best needle valve)
O'reilys can have it to you in about 1 day. (or amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Walker-Products-15282C-Carburetor-Kit/dp/B000CLN1RQ
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WLK0/15282C.oap?pt=02447&ppt=C0359
Buy new hinge bolts with Allen heads, i.e. M8-1.25 x 20mm Flat Head Socket Cap Screws Bolts Countersunk Bolts, Stainless Steel 304, Bright Finish, DIN 7991, Allen Socket Drive, 25 PCS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RTPRHBV/ref=ppx\_od\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There is actually a thing called a flexible carb adjustment tool… It’s a long shaft flexible screwdriver. Haven’t seen one that’s just a screwdriver in a while, most of them these days are pit drivers. Here’s a link to Amazon or you can buy one for about 20 bucks
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-55250-Carburetor-Adjusting-Tool/dp/B0002SRDB4/ref=asc_df_B0002SRDB4/
I have these push rod guards
And just the standard tin in the top
I bought one of these for my kaddie’s. The idle mix screw is not quite that tight though.https://www.amazon.com/36-Pieces-Extension-Screwdriver-Electrical-Cabinets%EF%BC%8CComputer/dp/B093SYQJ1T/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?keywords=Flexible+screwdriver&qid=1662793746&sr=8-10
I struggled with my Beetle too. I’ve never gotten the pedal pumping method to work, and even a handheld vacuum bleeder that sucks the fluid through didn’t work. What did end up working was a Gunson Eezibleed. They’re $33 on Amazon. What it does is screws on to the fluid reservoir cap, then attaches an air hose to the front tire to pressurize the reservoir, and PUSH the fluid through the system. You can also fabricate a similar setup with old bottle caps and air compressor fittings, but be sure to deflate your tire or turn the compressor pressure WAY down to avoid blowing out the hoses. I think they recommend 10-15 lbs.
My beetle doesn't have flaps, so I put a big-ass convex mirror on my rearview mirror, and it easily lets me see who's behind me 3 lanes wide.
Something similar to this one. If you want me to take a picture of what I actually see, tell me.
I had an unfair advantage. A good friend of mine wrote this book -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/1946767034
(that's my bug on the cover.)
We're collaborating on a new, updated edition of the book that's specific to VW conversions.
You know how sometimes you do a thing, then you wish you'd done it differently? That's my situation. We took it apart and are re-building it a better way. Taking video and photos along the way really slows down progress, especially as a part-time project.
But I'll let everyone know when it's finished and ready for prime time.
Here ya go :) YOURHEEY 7" LED Headlights + 4" Fog Light Replacement [HALO DRL + Turn Signal] [H4 Plug n Play] Compatible with 1987-2018 Wrangler JK JKU TJ LJ Rubicon Sahara Unlimited https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MTDZ48W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NEYXGYBH3PGJ5PRJH77J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Beetle is very tinker-friendly car. One of the reason I like it. Also the boxer sound is lovable.
For a tinkerer I'd recommend Beetle factory manual by Bentley, for a novice John Muir's 'how to keep your volkswagen alive'.
https://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Beetle-Karmann-Official-Service/dp/0837616239 https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101
I've both, highly recommended. :)
Also get this book
I would also recommend getting this book. It has tons of great information on fixing your car, and lots of cool drawings to help figure stuff out. There is a chapter on front ends.
How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot[sic]
This is a great resource, as well as this book.
As others have said, the carb will most likely need to be pulled and cleaned/rebuilt. Find out what carb/distributor setup you have, and do some research on The Samba to see if they work well together. These engines really do run the best when they are in their original configuration (stock form that is). Over the years, lots of people install loads of mix and match crap quality parts that will make the performance suffer.
Other than that, check the plugs/wires/distributor and make sure everything is in good order. Also try to drain the junk out of the fuel tank, or at the least grab a bunch of fuel filters and keep swapping them when they fill up with debris. Most of all have fun! These old veedubs will make a mechanic out of anyone.
This is slightly unrelated and you might have your painting method already but here goes.
I saw a thread on the samba where a guy made his car look like this for around $50. I PMed him and he sent me a document detailing how it is done.
I plan to do this to my car fairly soon.
Not sure if it helps you but here is the document.
very CLEAN Super
now pick up this book it's a good read and will help keep it on the road
Also I was told running shorter tires in the rear the vehicle might run hotter, and since using the oil dipstick temperature sensor, I can confirm it runs hot while running 60mph for a long period. I'm thinking of swapping the front tires to my rear and getting the amazon NEXEN tires in the front to get my speedometer more accurate
Since nobody is mentioning it, and if you haven't already, buy a copy of How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot, which is the bible for your car. Every air-cooled VW owner should have a copy.
Then follow the very detailed instructions for doing a basic tuneup.
3M makes clear vinyl, you could put a sheet of it in the area. It's mostly inconspicuous and I assume can hold up to a little gas. https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0
People use it on their hoods for rock chips, etc. I don't see why it wouldn't work.
Simple search for wire loom set. https://www.jbugs.com/product/WM-131-75-79.html
Amazon: Pirate Mfg Wiring Works Main Harness Kit, Compatible with/Replacement for VW 1975-1979 Super Beetle Fuel Injection Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L731VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_59PN7W56JC664AY2C96X
Buy or rent a tie rod remover. If you're in the US, you can rent one from Autozone, O'Reilly, Advance, or NAPA. Basically, you buy the tool and then return it for your money back. Makes the job really easy.
This car would look cute with a Pixar Cars sun visor OLSUS Car Windshield Sunshade Cartoon Eyes Front Auto Sun Shield Shade Visor Vehicle Accessories Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K24PNH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J7ZGGAK6WZ3RXC73GE46
I'm not a fan of any lamp that changes the 'classic' look of the front of the car (though, I realize many don't care). I've tried H4 replacement LED bulbs in my '58 and my '71, and went back to Halogens for both. The beam pattern just wasn't acceptable on the LEDs, and I was trying different brands.
Best headlight upgrades, in my opinion, are the Hella H4 replacement housings, and a relay setup for the headlights. https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-002850811-Halogen-Conversion-Headlamp/dp/B001G7A9YS/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=hella+h4+conversion&qid=1617120186&sr=8-2
When aimed correctly, they are incredible.
Boss make motorbike amps - with and with out speakers .
​
Definitely a good learning point. If you don't yet own Tom Wilson's book: https://www.amazon.ca/Rebuild-Your-Volkswagen-Air-Cooled-Engine/dp/0895862255 You don't need to read the whole thing, but definitely read the tear-down chapters, and read the assembly chapter. All the info on rebuilding individual components can be skipped...these days it's cheaper to buy new heads than rebuild your current ones, for instance.
Consider your oil cooler to be trash - replace it with the best quality one you can buy. Some people here will tell you it can be flushed, and I've certainly flushed them in the past, but if we presume your bearings are trashed (I can almost guarantee it)...We should presume you have bearing material in your oil cooler. It's difficult to flush out, and you don't want it taking out your new bearings.
The first priority needs to be getting your bare engine case checked for line-bore and thrust. You'll need to tear the engine down, and take the case to a competent VW machine shop (check with local clubs to find out who to use.) If your case is good and useable, your engine rebuild can begin. If not, you have to either find a good used case or pony up the bucks for an expensive used one. Good used cases are getting harder and harder to find.
You can still rebuild a VW motor relatively inexpensively, presuming your case is good. If you have the budget, however, for just a little bit more you can build a stock motor that has a much longer lifespan. I always upgrade my engine builds with counterweighted cranks, full balancing, full-flow oiling, and welded fans at a minimum...even in a "stock" build. The dollars spent means significantly more reliable / longer-lasting engines.
Posting the year of your car, and a photo of the engine would be quite helpful. Your video link doesn't work (for me). Also, "driver's side" could mean left or right side of the vehicle, depending on location. If you're in a left-hand drive market a driver's side hole would suggest you have a 1300cc engine. If you're a right-hand drive market, you could have a 1500 or 1600 engine.
Regardless, the third hole was for the pre-heater hose which went up to to the air cleaner. There should be a metal pipe that mounts below...commonly known as the "stove pipe". Together they direct warm air up to the carburetor for cold weather conditions. If you aren't installing the hose, or you don't have a factory air cleaner, the hole should be blocked off. You can use aluminum tape for duct work (note: NOT fabric duct-tape). https://www.amazon.ca/XFasten-Aluminum-Foil-Tape-Inches/dp/B07W8MDCN2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=aluminum+tape&qid=1605126528&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTDhPREJOT0MwSDBOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDU3OD...
The exhaust gasket order IS important. If you install them incorrectly, you will get an exhaust leak, which will contribute to your noise issue. The muffler style will also factor into it, but I'd need to see a photo (or working video) to confirm if your muffler design is a known loud muffler.
Sorry it took so long, but finally got the Beetle Generations poster listed for sale on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LP11G2M
If you’re interested in getting 40% off the poster, I have an early reviewer program for anyone who is willing to leave a review after receiving the print. Send me a message if you’re interested and I can provide the full details.
I’ll also send you a DM in case you miss this.
Sorry it took so long, but finally got the Beetle Generations poster listed for sale on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LP11G2M
If you’re interested in getting 40% off the poster, I have an early reviewer program for anyone who is willing to leave a review after receiving the print. Send me a message if you’re interested and I can provide the full details.
This is one of my favorite books if you are into Bug stories.
https://www.amazon.com/Bug-Tales-Hilarious-Outrageous-Touching/dp/0966947401
I’m sure they’re Chinese. They are pretty much stock replacements. Zmoon 7" Round LED Motorcycle Headlight with 75W Cree Hi/Lo Beam, Amber & White DRL Halo Ring Angle Eyes for Harley Davidson FLD/Touring/Softail Models（1 Pack） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T28C69B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d0VhFbHM8Z7YJ
I got these. I've found a lot of sketchy ones on ebay and such but figured these ones were safe due to the reviews and I won't be going back to halogen bulbs. The only downside to them is having to wire the halo lights in as driving lights and turn signals which is not hard at all. But other than that it uses the H4 connector the halogen bulbs use so there isn't any need to replace any connectors other than adding a wire with a bullet connector for the halo lights.
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001TWD5GY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
^^^I'm ^^^a ^^^bot ^^^and ^^^this ^^^action ^^^was ^^^performed ^^^automatically.
I have no idea if this will work on whitewall tires, but this stuff right here has pulled an unbelievable amount of dirt out of my tires. The previous owner must have taken this thing mudding or something, I scrubbed for actual hours trying to get the dirt out of the sidewalls. 30 minutes with that foaming cleaner (and almost no scrubbing) and they looked like new.
I purchased IAP Performance AC251420 2-Tip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0173KQVIY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The sections that need to bolt to my engine are too close together by about a half inch. Does this make sense?
I always buy the kit comes with all ya need gasket wise. Some local parts stores carry or can get the kit too. With old gaskets its always better to replace. bad video I made on rebuilding carbs
Stone guards: https://aapistons.com/collections/exterior-accessories/products/vw-late-68-up-headlight-grills-stoneguards-type-1-2-3 I would reccomend buying cheap light trim because you have to drill 3 holes in to mount them. They do not have instructions or bolts so you have to provide your own skill and bolts.
And I drive normally with these covering my foglights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LITDQA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Came he to say the exact same. I did a lot of research back in the day and settled on a 64' but iirc the best options were around the 1960 - 1968 but I couldn't tell you the reasons. I spent a lot of time on the samba (as the rest) but I also pretty much memorized the book Baja Bugs and Buggies. https://www.amazon.com/Baja-Bugs-Buggies-VW-based-off-road/dp/0895861860
Still waiting on my Haynes manual to give me all the nitty gritty, but I have to say, I cannot recommend this one enough - How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive
It covers all the basic stuff, and helps a newbie like me grok how all the systems work together.
In addition to the book by John Muir, which is very good and easy to understand, you should also consider purchasing the Haynes manual which is somewhat more technically organized. Like the Muir book, it can be found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Beetle-Karmann-through-Models-Haynes/dp/1850107297/ref=pd_bxgy_14_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1850107297&pd_rd_r=KHVFJ8WT10F35VFAVHAV&pd_rd_w=DqtqG&pd_rd_wg=6ksIa&psc=1&refRID=KHVFJ8WT10F35VFAVHAV
EDIT: and you might find the SAMBA website useful: www.thesamba.com
Your first step in buying a bug should always be buying John Muir's "how to keep your Volkswagen alive" and reading it cover to cover.
https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101
I sorta did two years ago when I first made it (link)
Lights are these - (from Amazon), they came with a control box and are powered by 3 D-cell batteries. They're remarkably durable, still work fine.
Those are NLA, but I'm sure there's new versions.
It'd be fairly simple to use a ~4.5V voltage reg and run it off the car battery, but I like it being self contained and simple.
I did pick up two dollar store extension cords and used those to extend the wires so I could put the control box in the glovebox.
Yes they do. I bought [this speaker] and it broke to my disamay. It's achilles ankle was that it was dropped with the aux plugged in, so when it landed it snapped from the inside. I have been trying to fix it ever since. (https://www.amazon.com/Photive-Waterproof-Wireless-Bluetooth-Shockproof/dp/B00K589F8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478847726&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+speaker+wireless+waterproof+shockproof)
I just went through replacing with a modern radio this weekend. Had great success with a really shallow radio, no CD player. Fit nicely. I also did all the wiring so if you wanna install without and amp I can explain how I did it. Radio was maybe 80$ plus some small speakers.
EDIT: Link to my kickass new stereo :) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01463U20E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Unfortunately that would be the point that I would be taking it to a mechanic. It shouldn't be hard to remove at all, and if you managed to break a screwdriver trying to pry it out then something is definitely holding it in. Again though, I'm not as familiar with pre-60 models, there may very well be something else keeping it in place. Of course, having not been run for 30 years things could have begun to rust.
If you have some handy, try absolutely lacquering it with PB Blaster and even trying to get some down where the dizzy inserts into the case and let that sit for an hour or so. Normally you would never want to get liquids in or around your dizzy, but from the sounds of it there is going to be some pretty extensive cleaning involved as well, so this would be a good last effort before needing to do something drastic.
Actually, I lied - I got it off Amazon.
This is my favorite picture from The Bug Book. It shows a bunch of VW owners coming out for the premier (sequel?) of Herbie back in the day. I couldn't find a higher resolution, but with the exception of 2 or 3 vehicles, those are all Beetles in the picture.
a simple vacuum/fuel pressure tester (usually the same gauge) can be purchased cheap at most auto parts places, and is very handy to have, some places may even rent/loan them...
EDIT: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20300-Vacuum-Gauge-Tester/dp/B000CODRFO
Woah! I have the same color for my 74. Is that a Canadian Edition Auto Stick too by chance?
Have fun! Seriously, I thought you had my car for a minute there but then realized you'd have to take it off the jack stands and find the elusive 4th tire I need ;P
Edit - To answer your question! http://www.amazon.ca/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101
Check out that book if your beetle needs some work to get running. It's been great for me.
this one. Then I bought a bosch rotor and wires to top it all off. Like a whole new car.
Do you have points? One dumbass thing I did when I first got electronic ignition(not this dizzy) was that I left the key on while the magnet was engaged. Electrical fire. SO the moral of the story is to try to start your car OR turn the motor ever so slightly the first time you run things.
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Unless you're doing major body repair and have owned an air cooled before, this should be the the best book to get to know your new driveway companion.
As others have said, your location dictates price for machine work and who is competent in the area on doing it. Check thesamba for recommended shops in your area, or at least for a decent list of them.
You're looking for a technical and useful book. That would be the Wilson book, nothing else really comes close.