i did a quick google to see if leaf springs were ideal and they are so i put out feelers for some of those.
And also in the course of that found recommendation for the $50 knife shop book so I bought him that on amazon. link: https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-Goddards-Knife-Shop-Revised/dp/0896892956/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482254778&sr=8-1&keywords=50+knife+shop
Thanks folks You both got me exactly what I needed!
There are two knifemaking subreddits, /r/knifemaking and /r/Bladesmith. If you want to get him steel Amazon stock O1 tool steel which will be much nicer for him to work with than leaf springs - https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ground-Annealed-Thickness-Length/dp/B00CZDPAI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482297534&sr=8-1&keywords=o1+steel. If you go with that I would suggest getting 5/32 inch thickness and 1.5 or 2 inch width, and whatever length you prefer.
If you want hard brick, its on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Products-604-Fire-Brick/dp/B000UEYZ4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500563383&sr=8-1&keywords=fire+brick
For Soft brick, maybe this one: https://www.amazon.com/EuroTool-Fire-Brick-SOL-485-00/dp/B012C5ZIAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500563409&sr=8-1&keywords=soft+fire+brick
The Mr. Volcano Hero single burner forge is only $75 and comes with everything you need to get started. Pretty much impossible to beat that deal. I bought one for a second, smaller forge and have been using it more than my old one
I got 2 of these from Amazon. They came shipped with heat treatment instructions right on the packaging and I'm using them for stock removal.
I hate to break it to you, if this is a Chinese made vice it is not worth $40. It frankly it looks to be. You can get a new 4" vice on amazon for $40
Look at the name plate, if it is a better made American made vice and the rust has not pitted the way and frozen the gibs, the it might be worth $40, but will probably need some TLC to get in decent shape. I suspect it is not.
If you just want a vice to abuse, show him the amazon link offer him $15.
You adjust the air fuel ratio by sliding the venturi in and out of the burner
I have one of those atlas forges and I had problems with it producing an excess amount of scale on the piece because the forge was too oxygen rich. Adjusting the venturi fixed that problem.
Here's a rigidizer that should work:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0754818Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KudrFb3V3R6DB
Have you considered just buying a cheap one if it's just for a costume? Even vs. making it yourself, $60 is pretty tough to beat.
https://www.amazon.com/SZCO-Supplies-Brass-Crusader-Helmet/dp/B007XP1ECS/
Railspikes are low carbon mild steel. If you wanted to make a hard cutting edge you would probably have to sandwich a high carbon edge and forge weld.
But this is the cooking thing I was thinking of.
https://www.amazon.com/Swivel-Grill-Grate-Set%EF%BD%9CPortable-Campfire/dp/B09PYTFQ4P/
Then there's the wought iron tripod set ups.
I use this for all my sanding/grinding needs, coupled with ear protection. Sometimes it's just ear muffs, other times I'll plug the ears first and then muff. Usually though the plugs are just my earbuds, listening to jams while I grind/sand.
I like the full face shield/resp combo because it's less stuff I have to worry about. Instead of trying to fit the resp over the goggles and hurting my ears, this takes care of it for me.
>Tig gloves
Are you referring to this pair? https://www.amazon.com/Tillman-Goatskin-Welding-Gloves-X-Large/dp/B0074PYVJA
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With regards to the other PPE, I get that it's personal preference, but would you mind sharing what you use?
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Out of curiosity why would you skip the leather apron?
Traditionally a JBOD is the cheapest option, but there is simply nothing that can compete with the price point of a cheap Mr. Volcano forge. Perfectly serviceable forge, you'll just want some firebrick to block up one side.
Just set up my Mr. V forge today, and decided to see if I could push it to forge welding temp. Grabbed a few pieces of mild steel and stuck them in there.
Now, the reason I posted this: People always say don't rely on color because we see color differently person to person. But a good measure of when steel is ready to forge weld is when the surface "looks like liquid".
This is what I saw, and it's the first time I've ever seen that in person. So for people who are wondering what is meant by the surface looking like liquid, there you go. I pulled these bars out just after filming this, gave it a few whacks (sprayed my hoodie with slag, which now has holes burned in it) and repeated the process a few times.
The weld is super solid, and there was no flux involved. So it's probably a dirty weld, but it's mild steel as a test run, who cares.
Hope this helps others just getting started to help de-mystify a bit. And before anyone asks, this was done at 20psi on the gauge. Probably could have done it lower, but I wasn't going for fuel conservation, I wanted to see if this little beast could handle it.
I highly recommend this forge for starters. The only thing that's not stock is the regulator/hose (mine had a leak, tried to tighten it, and it snapped, so I bought this replacement and the satanite included with the forge has a topcoat of Plistix 900F.
Well, I have my own shop at my house. I'd be expanding it to double it's current 18'x12' size to take this on, because at the moment I have just the forge itself, three grinders, a table, anvil, green-sand mold, water/oil buckets, and storage racks. Would need to add an entire corner for a stick-welder and oxy/acetylene torch, and another corner (and shelves) for the foundry, and storing the ingots and molds/molding equipment. Existing copper-smithing and woodworking stuff would be squeezed in there wherever I could manage to fit it. So, within the next - I dunno, two or three months - should be fully operational with at least the basics of everything I need.
...That is what you meant by "low input," right? Or did you mean something else? I wasn't quite sure.
Got the creativity part down. Am not at ALL worried about that. https://www.tumblr.com/blog/autvenium
Taxes.. Eurrgh.. I'm not looking forward to that part.. Or finding out how tax works on the internet/when it doesn't apply.. Or having to get my own health insurance..
Something along the lines of this https://youtu.be/hm-35fxKznw or this https://www.shutterstock.com/video/clip-14947168-blacksmith-manually-forging-molten-metal-on-anvil. But in black and white and with no sound. I can handle the black and white conversion (I think? I'm not a video editor by any means) but something like those 2 videos. The ShutterStock one is perfect but they want freakin 60 bucks for it.
Looks like it's equipped for bending tubing and bar stock. Never seen anything quite like it, but compare it to this: https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Tripod-Chain-Portable-RIDGID/dp/B07HT56ZDC/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?keywords=pipe+vise+tripod&qid=1637487975&s=industrial&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNUJFODNYNzlXS0hJJmVuY3J5cHRl...
These discs do a great job aggressively stripping paint/rust/mill scale without harming the base metal even if you're pretty heavy handed with a grinder.
I got this one and it's a slight upgrade from the harbor freight one. I had that one and it jammed up alot and broke a month or so later. I've had this one for alot longer and it has more power
The Gerber Gator does what you suggest and puts the blade the bottom of the handle and seems to use simple retention to secure it.
You'll want something light and easy to wear. You don't need shading nearly as much as IR/UV protection. Something like these. Certainly no more than a shade 3.
Could use one of these also. Mostly designed for refrigerant but then again propane is used as refrigerant in some cases. Kinda spent though! Bucket of water is much cheaper! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NP3KQI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_lX3aGbKX80695
For $250 I wouldn’t recommend that because it uses a lot of fuel because it is very open. I think that size would work with 3 burners but not one. I don’t want to discourage you because I know you already got it and I hope it works great! For @mumblerumble I recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Double-Burner-Propane-Furnace-Blacksmith/dp/B07Y8CCDBP/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=single+burner+forge+for+knife+making&qid=1609040589&sprefix=single+burner+forge&sr=8-5
also btw i was wondering if anyone has used something like this?
After cleaning it, I would use white lithium grease.
Is it the best choice? I have no idea. But it's cheap and really found at any hardware store.
If you are doing a lot of wood working, pull might be better. Grease is more susceptible to dust, but lasts longer than oil. So it's mostly used in enclosed gear trains where you can't re-oil it daily.
https://mathewsonmetals.com/shop/item/metalsmith-forge
This is my personal recommendation for a gas forge but I really do recommend learning on a solid fuel forge, it teaches you so much that you wouldn’t otherwise learn, and this is my recommendation for that.
You probably won't need more than one if you get a good enough strength magnet. I got a couple off amazon that weren't very expensive, I put it on the waist under the hardy hole on my TFS 100lb double horn and my son's 75lb vulcan. Took the TFS down from god awful loud to a tolerable dink, the Vulcan makes almost no noise.
Here's a link to the magnet I found.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039RBY6U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nah, its all 100% cast steel, and it came from Happybuy, a company in China (I think). I got it off Amazon for about $180 here's the link. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075YSCQ4Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Depends on your air intake/burner pipe, pressure, forge size, desired temp, etc. Generally speaking, I find the 0.030" give or take a step to be pretty useful. I would also highly recommend tips that are tapered (like this), rather than blunt nosed.
You should be very concerned about you respiratory health! Most of what we do is very detrimental to your lungs so proper protection is critical.
That said, I recommend a 3m 6300 series respirator with the quick latch option (it'll be 6320ql, depending on the size of the mask) half face respirator with the 3m p100 filters. They will handle grinding dust, smoke, organic vapors and most everything else we deal with. They come in small, medium, and large, so pay attention to that when you order. Proper fitment and sealing on your face is critical.
Do yourself a favor, do not buy it at the big box stores, it's cheaper on Amazon.
In case you're curious, I'm a full time professional with over 30 years of experience and this is what I use.
Have fun forging!
ETA product link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JZ1MK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2TQxEbGZ344VA
Ceramic wool is specifically made for applications like this, it shouldn't just burn up. It sounds like you've got wool not rated for the right temperatures or something you're putting in the forge is degrading it. Either way, if commercially available products aren't working, then homemade ones are very unlikely to work. I've used stuff like this and it held up great.
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Bladesmith-Forging-Your-Perfection/dp/1581606338/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1506287194&sr=1-3&keywords=knife+making This book has almost everything you need to know to get started and then some. It helped me a lot. The author is amazingly thorough. He even covers proper anvil height and hammer use.
*Edit: grammer and spelling
As well as buying that book, i also bought this book from Amazon.
The Sims book is a great resource for getting started. She walks you through the very beginnings and I loved her photos.
The Weygers book is just insane in terms of what you come to understand a qualified blacksmith is actually capable of creating. It's not as polished, but I think that you could pretty much maintain a small society with the information in that book and the proper skills. He has a special focus on tool making (he's a wood carver and looks to have made each of his tools) as well.
For $651 you can buy a brand new 77 lb Ridgid anvil. It's a little smaller, but still very serviceable. Plus it's a high quality steel anvil with no dings, dents, or unseen flaws.
https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-69622-Model-4-Inch-Forged/dp/B0015BC3GC
For $690 you can get a new 100 lb Emerson anvil.
Both options have free shipping.
Not sure how fancy you want to go but i personally own a Kershaw leek in damascus. I love mine it feels nice and looks nice. https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Damascus-Assisted-Opening-Stainless/dp/B003R6DDEO
Benchmade, or lionsteel would be a step up but also much more expensive http://www.knifeart.com/damascus8200.html
Otherwise see if you can got to art shows depending on your area there are amazing local artists that do some serious quality work.
There is a local heritage museum near me that teaches blacksmithing to the community (I haven't started yet, but have a space reserved for March to get started). I never would have thought to look at a museum for something like this, so I thought it would be worth mentioning in the off chance you have something similar near by.
In preparation for the class I bought this book as it seems to be highly recommended by many people on the smithing forums I have looked at. It is full of lots of great information and I think has given be a decent idea of what I might be getting myself in to while also explaining the types of tools and terminology that'll be necessary to learning the trade/art.
you could always take a rotary tool, a pointed diamond bit, a ruler and a gold,silver or bronze sharpie (if your i beam is dark in color if its somewhat shiny you can just use a normal black sharpie) and make that drilled round hole into a square one.
for a horn a i just thought up a mod for a I-beam anvil. what you will need, get a good thick piece of round stock (a axle or thick spring from a car would work as its good high carbon steel), a blowtorch head, a small bottle of MAP gas, and if you do not have it a angle grinder with a proper abrasive disk for grinding and a cut off head.
First Grind the round stock into a proper tapered horn leaving a bit of a original materials size on the back end. Next switch to the cutting disk and cut off a appropriate amount of the middle section of the I beam off. Next using the Map gas get top of the beam to a nice orange color,(it will take some time) take your hammer and hammer it to a 90 dgree angle. let it cool fully. then drill a hole into it the size of the horn. now the extra material should stop it from falling out and also serves to hold it in place for the next step. Next reheat the section back to orange and hammer down on it to hot form the extended piece to the horn. you may need to do some hardening to and tempering at the end to make sure it will not brake under the strain of working it.
Keep in mind I have not tried this out as I came up with it as I was writing it. I just use a Vise anvil hybrid and use the face of the vice as a shaping horn. However i am a Hobby bladesmith not a blacksmith.
Or you could shell out 15.05 for this Or you could ju st buy this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ES5T9C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and mod the horn to your liking. and just grind down the horn. i use this one, however i kinda need to buy new nuts and bolts for it as I lost 2 well moving it to install the vise anvil hybrid i am now using.
I would go with charcoal as you can use grilling charcoal and that stuff can be bought at wallmart. depending on the brand you could get a 24 pound bag for as little as 6.50 usa (wallmart brand). the thinner head of your hammer is great for braking charcoal bricks into smaller pieces. i would get good size storage bin to hold the charcoal and a scoop for it. i use this to scoop the charcoal: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHRK1D0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
well it really depends on what size the knife is and what size the grinder is. I have a Six inch Hico bentch grinder and You cant properly shape anything bigger then about a overall length of 9 inches you end up bumping into the other disk. also you risk injury trying to grind something bigger and I have the scars to show it. you can get wheels between at least 46 and 120 grit. i think i have seen 150 grit wheels but am not sure on that.
However you can get a small belt sander starting at about 92.04 on amazon. It's the same thing as a belt grinder, it just depends on the type of grit used for the belts.
Here is a link to that 92.04 plus tax belt sander. It also has prime free shipping so you can get it in two days. https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-6502-36-Inch-6-Inch-Sander/dp/B00NAXSYT8/ref=lp_552882_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1474260263&sr=1-1
hope this helps keep on making.
Here it is: Crafted - on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Crafted-Yuji-Nagatani/dp/B00ZKPKYVK/ref=sr_1_2?s=instant-video&ie=UTF8&qid=1455988588&sr=1-2&keywords=artisan
They are from Georgia, which I think is close to Portland, right? :)
Shade #5 is a bit dark. I use shade #5 when brazing or welding with a torch. Unless you are really sensitive to light, you will have difficulty seeing anything wearing those. Most guys wear clear safety glasses and avoid looking directly at the fire. I wouldn't advise using anything darker than shade #3.
Now to answer your question:
These may work for you. They are only shade #3, but I have found it is easier to wear two pairs of glasses than trying to wear goggles over my glasses.
http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-20921/Safety-Glasses-Goggles/Horizon-Safety-Glasses-Welding-Shade?pricode=WY776&gadtype=pla&id=S-20921&gclid=Cj0KEQjw-b2wBRDcrKerwe-S5c4BEiQABprW-FVnPJkSlRuYm5qQZ5bHvdUStuHLly0_wjInp-YSg2AaAtdQ8P8H...
A shade #5 clip-on version may work for you too. Bonus: these can be flipped up. http://www.amazon.com/LIGHTWEIGHT-PLASTIC-CLIP-ON-FLIP-UP-SPECTACLES/dp/B000HJMQ9C
You can also try going to a place that sells eyeglasses. You should be able to order some prescription safety glasses with either #3 or #5 tinting.
Hrm, that's tricky - the text book we used was http://www.amazon.co.uk/Materials-Science-Engineering-William-Callister/dp/0470505869
but it really depends on what you mean by 'beginner' - that was for a Masters course; and covers a lot more outside of steel (and form the reviews, looks like later editions have started to turn into ransomware). On the other hand, looking at the same thing in different classes of materials really helps get an overall understanding.
I gave the internet a shake, and this: http://ocw.mit.edu/courses/materials-science-and-engineering/3-40j-physical-metallurgy-fall-2009/ fell out. That looks like the sort of 'proper' metallurgy course - note that annealing is half way through, and hardening is 3/4 - and that's pretty much the way it has to be, to do it 'properly' (meaning building an understanding what's happening at the atomic level; before looking at how those changes can be used).
Whilst there's nothing wrong with 'just using' the various processes; which is what blacksmithing needs, to really understand what's going on it fairly involved.
I'm sure that there's something out there, that covers that what's useful in smithing, without getting as far in-depth as all that - but I'm afraid that I'm not familiar with that. Googling the various keywords I gave will give you a start on the key steps.