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https://offerup.com/item/detail/467889139
Looks to be a match. I’m with everyone else here. 90HP Nissan for sure. Not a 4stroke.
Disclaimer the link is the first google image I could find to match what OP posted. Not indicating it’s the exact motor or remotely involved.
An EPIRB or PLB. The PLB's are relatively inexpensive in boating terms.
Fixed VHF's don't work if the boat is capsized and the antenna is underwater...the range on hand-helds is not very good if you are floating in the water up to your neck, so if you are offshore and no one is in range, you are not getting picked up. PLB's communicate via satellite, are completely waterproof, buoyant, and the battery is certified for 6 years. A PLB can literally save the mans life.
Here in an ACR model on Amazon for under $300:
https://www.amazon.com/PLB-375-ResQLink-Buoyant-Personal-Locator/dp/B006JXY0CQ
Side Note: I'm a big supporter of PLB's after the 2009 incident where three football players were lost in the Gulf after their boat capsized. A $300 investment could have saved their lives. Those guys spent that much money on a pair of shoes.
Check out the photos on Amazon! The photoshops are comical!
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLMRA410BT-Waterproof-Bluetooth-Amplifier/dp/B00WR6ZX4I?th=1
Still, $45 for the 4ch? That's stupid cheap. I may have to ditch my head unit as well.
This is how it goes in, when you get one
welcome to the SV Kwai
delivering sugar, flour, cooking oil, mp3 players and mayonnaise to the south pacific, bringing back seaweed and ... well, actually only seaweed.
.. crew wanted
I bought these as a "temporary" solution to get me out on the water at night... that was 2 years ago and they've never let me down. They have as suction cup mounting version as well.
I change the batteries every few outings before I leave home just to be safe, but, because I never run the batteries all the way down before changing them, I save the used batteries as spares in a ziplock bag in my emergency kit. They're not full strength, of course, but they're full enough for LED's. Any of them have at least enough power to get me home safely, but even if I had to change them a couple of times to stay out longer, that's fine... I have plenty saved up.
It's after Memorial day so you need to wear white. I'd recommend this affordable number from Amazon If you really want to impress. A pair of spiffy Sperry Topsiders and you're good to go.
As far as behavior, it is common courtesy to salute the captain upon boarding his vessel. Don't forget to bring a decent bottle of champagne.
Of course I'm kidding. A Life Is Good T-shirt, WalMart board shorts, and a pair of Crocs is the standard American boating attire. Bring your own drinks, no glass, and offer to pay for fuel. Please do not wear a sailor's uniform.
Unfortunately, thats how trailers look after using them in salt water. Depending on age, That may actually be pretty well taken care of. I would buy ahigh quality truck frame paint and sand down all the rust I can with a wire wheel or sanding disc. Then paint over any surfaces with 2 coats of the frame paint. Every time you use the trailer in salt water, hose it off really well, including flushing the inside of the frame to keep the trailer in good shape. I've even just dunked the trailer in a fresh-water lake on the way home to rinse it out. Backing in and out of the water a few times is quick and easy.
Salt water wreaks havoc on trailers. A lot of parts wear out much faster but a high quality coating and plenty of grease in the axles will help you
Hqst mppt 40amp off amazon be sure to get the 40 amp so you can actually run the trolling motor off of the controller which will fully utilize the subsidized power from the solar panels... otherwise it's just going to be charging your batteries and you'll have to hook up the trolling motor independently.
Also this waterproof box has been great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T94MQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1496075961517
I got you: This is the only one I know that will reach. One suggestion: Get a metal fabber to build the trailer bracket out of stainless (unless you have a roller way up under there to hit. This unit comes with both a bracket and roller mount.
this looks like it was 1 of the 20.
https://www.amazon.com/Twenty-Small-Sailboats-Take-Anywhere-ebook/dp/B008PYM0Z6
Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere
Found this link from a reverse image search. Currently unavailable.
How large are you? Are you a good swimmer?
My Uncle has a lake house and some jet skis and we have some friends and family who are fairly overweight and ride them just fine.
If you fall off, it does take a considerable amount of strength to get back on. Jet skis have a feature where when you fall off they go slowly around in circles so they don't drift away from you. If you're not a very strong swimmer it can be really exhausting trying to catch it. Make sure you wear a life vest regardless.
If you can't lift yourself on it from the water just yet, you might want to look into something like this: http://www.ezriserproducts.com/jetskistep1.htm
If you are a strong swimmer and can physically lift yourself back on the jet ski, it shouldn't be a problem. It's very difficult to flip a jet ski over if you're getting on it from the back. Even if you do, they are designed to flip right side up again.
Make sure to get a jet ski that isn't very top heavy and has a low seat too. Some jet skis are very top heavy and having a large person on top of it can make it flip over easy if you make a tight turn.
By the way, riding a jet ski actually burns calories and is quite a workout if you ride them pretty hard (it takes a lot of muscle to constantly adjust your body to stay balanced and to pull yourself back on them). Good luck with losing weight!
Remember diet alone helps a ton. I cut out soda from my diet and didn't change anything else and lost about 15 pounds in a few months. If you have a smart phone, check out this app: http://www.fooducate.com/blog/
It's great for when you go shopping. You scan food bar codes and it tells you how good they are for you and recommends healthier alternatives.
https://www.amazon.com/Rage-Powersports-SP-4S-Telescoping-Handrails/dp/B00ORZJOZ6
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I like 4 step ladders (if they made a 5 step I'd love that more)
you need to be darn sure if you want to engine to last.
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i think its 50:1
recommend you get a mixing jar
https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-21000-Widemouth-32-Ounce-Container/dp/B0006ZCHBO
Just for reference. I would suggest shopping around for a deal if you want to save a buck (3 gallon packs are normally cheaper per Oz than a single jug). If you find a price you're comfortable with I would stock up especially if you're planning on using the boat a lot. And plus you'll want to keep an oh s**t jug hidden on the boat for the eventual day where you forget to top off before hitting the water.
Evinrude Xd100 2-Stroke Outboard Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XB81M9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RDH07DHM8Z0JSYDFK44C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I took one off my Glastron and googled the numbers on it. Actually found a set on Amazon for $20 Exactly the same as OEM.
Maxpow C16-08260 19.7inch 60 lbs Gas Prop/Strut Lift Support Camper Shell Cap Topper Snugtop Tonneau Leer Cover (Please Check the Extended Compressed Length and Force before you bought it) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M590RPH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NE39HY7GZ2KC4MKS2JAN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I run cheap Pyle amps paired with nice speakers in every boat i've owned(alot of them).
My latest is Pyle 400watt(yeah right) 4 channel paired with SKAR audio marine 6.5" speakers and they are insane. The pyle amp is under $50 and you could just use that to power your speakers and I PROMISE you you'll be happy with it.
One step further would be a pair of those Skar Audio marine speakers depending on which Fusion speakers you have(Fusion make good stuff but they're "kit or factory speakers" kinda suck). Either way it'll sound better.
I can't say enough good about Skar audio BTW.
One of these, though not necessarily that one:
Great for when stuff falls off.
I’m not sure what mean by outboard steers when you “pull” the tiller but you could hook something like this up.
I’m guessing it would require a custom bracket but you could use a very small steering wheel and mount it somewhere inconspicuous near your driver seat.
I found some inexpensive odor absorbers on Amazon after my daughter threw up all over my backseat. She was very young and had been drinking milk. It wasn’t pretty.
Anyway, they make these things that are like mesh bags with activated charcoal inside them. Infinitely reusable. You just leave them in the sun for an hour or two to “recharge” them. I just leave mine against the back window so they’re pretty much always in the sun if I park somewhere. I’ll see if I can find you a link.
Edit: Here’s the link. The one I got was $20 but they have even less expensive ones if you’d rather have multiple small ones hidden throughout the car. Under seats is a good place. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019NXUJ5K/
Just bought one of these, my kids are relentless wrapper and empty juice box making machines. Works great and is easy to remove and empty.
https://www.amazon.ca/SeaSense-50091250-Trash-Trapper-White/dp/B0030HL18K
I’ve got enough boat sense to diagnosis it as: broken.
As close as I’ve gotten
MERCRUISER ALPHA ONE UPPER GEAR SET (4CYL) | GLM Part Number: 11240; Sierra Part Number: 18-2205; Mercury Part Number: 43-55778A3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AQVJKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WWXJN5XTMAGP5YJJFRSM
Took a look at a parts diagram for your model. I think your best bet would be to run your battery cables directly to the engine then make up a new harness for the remaining wires. Hard to see in the diagram but looks like 5 or 6 wires maybe. Deutsch makes some nice water resistant plugs and sockets. Something like this would work. https://www.amazon.com/JRready-Connector-Waterproof-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B08K4HPHK5
meguiers #10 plastic polish will clean that right up
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Plastic-Polish/dp/B0000AXMD2
and that trailer could use some love.
Sounds good. That makes sense. Got this airhead comfort shell 65. Our boat isn’t too big so wanted to start small too.
Comfort Shell Deck Tube (2 Rider, 3 Rider or 4 Rider) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767L6FHL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M8QHP7118HSZW2SQKAAP
I have the same rig! love it I recommend this highly:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WF6YQ6H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am pretty strict about keeping my boat covered and dry when it's stored, but this thing still beat my expectations for being so cheap. 5 years in and still looks new.
I'm seeing the bottom skeg broken, is it leaking oil? cracked where?
those skegs can be replaced.
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I'll have to look, its in the truck at the moment, but its like this
got it on sale for around 50 bucks.
My first thought would be to attempt a rebuild. Gaskets can be hand cut and seals replaced. Not always possible, depending on the failure, but I'd try.
Second, see if you can find who was the OE for that pump. It's unlikely a generator manufacturer was building their own water pumps or even engines. You might be able to find the same part but under a different brand or the OE brand. Will definitely take some good research.
If that fails and you have the electrical overhead, I'd swap it for a electric unit. Much easier to mount and run as an aftermarket, non stock swap.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-251-721-Original-Equipment-Auxiliary/dp/B0016IDG6A/
If that's not an option, I'd look at small engine parts. Matching mounting is going to take some doing.
What brand is the generator?
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Something like this I guess. I grew up being around a I/O, never wrecked myself once, or if I did I learned the lesson well enough to not do it again...
Something like this should work right above your existing one:
Order a light tester for your car. If the ground isn’t working, these lights won’t light up. If it is working, try running a random wire from your negative terminal on your car to the trailer frame. If the lights work then, you need to figure out why it’s not using the ground from the light plug. Most trailers are poorly wired from new. So grounds go bad all the time.
There’s going to be points on either side of the motor you use one of these to attach the rope to. Skiing in like a bay or something is usually okay. Tubing is more fun though behind something like this haha.
Airhead Watersports Self Centering Tow Harness | 2 Rider - 12 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FECD2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T4JP0BV5KMV9CWN5EHGE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you run it at hull speed (~6 or 7 mph) you'll probably get around 3.5 to 4 mpg. Get <strong>VesselView Bluetooth</strong> and you can monitor your fuel consumption in real time on your phone, laptop or tablet. Trawlers get good fuel mileage b/c they only travel at hull speed. Their max speed is only 12 mph in some cases! Just run your boat like a trawler. You can actually enjoy everything around you while saving huge amounts in fuel costs. I'm in Florida right now and I'm starting the Great Loop next week in a 29' Bayliner with a single 6.2L 383 Stroker. Twin engine boats like yours usually get BETTER mpg than singles b/c they are not working as hard. I'll be doing 95% of the 6,000 mile Loop at hull speed TO ENJOY THE TRIP and actually see all the places I will be going. If I were to do it at cruise speed I'd get 1.5 mpg and miss everything along the way b/c I'm hauling ass everywhere I go. What fun would that be blast past everything and do the Loop in 4 months? I'm gonna be a trawler and spend a year seeing EVERYTHING!! 🤣
I had the same issue and switched to these.
Champion 876M QL16V Marine Spark Plug Pack Of 6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJC53XP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JTPQB3E24VV32XVP1VDD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
you might need to test it, but its just a steering arm, long right angle with threaded nut. as long as it clears the motor and controls it should work.
https://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/1496_17.cfm
No you’re not missing a part - but you’re not crazy. On boats with the steering cable it can attach from either side of the “tilt tube” as it’s called. Because of that - both sides are threaded. A not terrible practice is a piece that you install on the bare threaded / not steering cable attached side on that is like -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZCHJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_rNs-FbP6KYC9M
I have personally used them on my cable steering boats several times and it also helps keep crap out of the steering system.
I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074N2DCG5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_OPWUFbKFCRVK2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I keep it on the boat and use it to blow up little inflatable toys and inner tubes and stuff for my son.
Ok let's start from the top.
Why buy a cleaner with diluted oxalic acid when you can just buy oxalic acid on Amazon and mix it yourself?
Simply follow dilution ratios exactly and you won't have a problem.
After that I use a googone product that removes rust for any spots that have rust stains.
Here is where everyone will throw rocks at me but...
I put an even coat of mopNglo on the boat. It works. If I need to strip it off I'll use oxalic acid again.
PS. 5lbs of oxalic acid on Amazon is $15
OXALIC ACID 99.6% 5 Lb. Deck, Crystals, Metal Cleaning- Rust Removal, Wood Stain Remover and More! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147JPQAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CKR0ybVSXFNHT
There is some stuff I found on Amazon. Look for Aven, but the wrenches etc are fairly expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Aven-21190-10-Adjustable-Stainless-Wrench/dp/B00QIK25JU
I resorted to some good quality tools and keep them mostly ziplocked and properly stowed. I guess you could treat them with CorrosionX regularly.
Harbor Freight used to sell them, but now all they have are the folding utility trailers I believe. Even then you could get one and customize it for a boat and all in you'd only be out like $600.
There are similar ones to the ones HF used to sell on amazon pretty cheap as well, like this one https://www.amazon.com/Ironton-Personal-Watercraft-Boat-Trailer/dp/B00E5DW9XO although some of the reviews make it sound like it might be too short without some modifications.
This Malone on Amazon would probably meet your needs. https://www.amazon.com/Malone-MicroSport-Trailer-Package-Winch/dp/B07B45QK4L
Yep, I did both forward seats and the bench seat there infront of the boat model signage. I used this marine vinyl (it's nice), and this gray trim (both from amazon).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBK44BI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MWFZFTF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I can't recommend these transom straps enough. One of the first modifications I made to the boat/trailer this summer and I can say they make life way better.
Edit: I just cut the static hook off and bolted through the ratchet housing (existing hole) to the trailer. 1/2-13 stainless bolt with a matching nylock nut.
Find something like this that is compatible with your engine.
I bought this one for my bowrider. Its pretty heavy duty and does not scratch. Just make sure you're getting something that's 600D if you really want the protection.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MR465P/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_YhPyFb1M92HP6
Oh yeah. Upgrade to Teleflex, basically the industry standard (I'm not sure what else is out there honestly except for hydraulic steering which doesn't make much sense for most boats). I updated my '58 boat to Teleflex this year. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Teleflex/TMTechCat-MechStrg(v4_0)How_to_Measure_Steering_Cables.pdf
Here is a link on how to measure to find out what length of cable you need.
and here is a link to the Teleflex steering kits. It does not come with a steering wheel or transom mount if you need one (if you outboard has a "tilt tube" you may not but may need some additional hardware.
Hope that helps.
Look up E6000 It will glue just about anything to anything.
It comes in a squeeze tube or in a calking tube. E6000
When I worked for a manufacturing company this was used a lot. In wet environments, gluing carpets, rubber, rotomolded crosslink.
A tip when using, the stuff is self leveling. Do not confuse it with Silicone or any other types of calking.
I second the other guy. Rip all the wiring out and redo it.
MAKE sure to get 100% copper wires, not aluminum
Get a fuse block with a ground on it like this one
12 Way Fuse Block with Ground Boat Truck RV Trailer Solar setup Camper Car automotive Fuse Box 12 volt - 32 volt include Connectors Regular Fuses Red LED indicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088NNYD3X/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_btIkFbZ5QHD0E
My fuse block didn't have a ground junction on it and I had to spend $20 for a terminal junction
Get wire connectors without shielding and use heat shrink. Lighter works best for this
Do all the wiring yourself. It'll take much longer than you'll imagine, but it's fun and you'll understand everything when you're done.
Don't run the boat this season. You have a lot to do to get it ready.
Fuel filter needs replaced ASAP.
possibly fuel lines.
Carbs likely need taken out and cleaned
I cannot say for sure but I would assume all pumps have 10% or less
Get a drainable one and just pump it from the tank into two jerrycans
https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Water-Separator-Housing/dp/B007PKB8GS
It doesn't look much different than this ($20). I was hoping to find someone who had tried a non-johnson pump to see if there are any problems with it.
A really good flashlight. I carry three of these on delivery (one in my pocket, one in my tool bag, one in my laptop bag). Customers have liked them so much I've sold them on.
If you want to spend more, an electric screwdriver with bits and a bag is brilliant. The bag is now my travel tool bag. The screwdriver is another tool I've sold on to my customers and just buy a new one when I get home.
If your brother travels with a laptop, a Globalsat BU-353-S4 GPS puck and a dAISy 2+ AIS receiver together with OpenCPN gives him fully redundant navigation. With an SD card reader you can do all planning and routing on your laptop and transfer to chartplotters with .gpx files.
There are no end of t-shirts with relevant sayings and logos: "I'm the Captain, Suck it Up," "Saltwater Cures Everything," "Where In the Hell is Coinjock?"
you need a nmea 2000 backbone starter kit. the 2 units both have nmea 2k so they will talk...idk what functionality you'll gain though...the backbone starter kit supplies power to the nmea network.
https://www.amazon.com/NMEA-Network-Starter-Model-124-69/dp/B002BBFE98
Good to know, thank you! I assumed it was fine, but many times when I assume......... hahaha
I was reading too that lower the amps on the charger, the better it is for the battery. So i was originally stuck between a 1 or 2 amp charger. But I'm liking this 10amp, where i can also charge my mower battery. Two 2amp units or one 10amp, I'm thinking.... camelcamelcamel dot com shows there is usually a large price dip between black Friday and November 30, so I'll try to snag them then!
NOCO GENIUS10, 10-Amp Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Portable Automotive Car Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226
In that case, this is a super simple solution, assuming your external tank has a separate fuel line attachment.
Here is a much newer Whaler sport... thoughts? All of the whalers in the 6k that are newer (90+, in this case 2001) have 2 strokers though.
It has a 2003, 250Hp 2 stroke, doesnt specify hours. Price seems high for me too. If motor has like say 1000-1200hrs what price would you guess is fair? Here is the link btw:
This exactly. The Striker 4 draws only 1/4A so you could use a cheaper 3A converter, but personally I'd go with the 20A as it gives enough scope to hang other 12V devices off it (VHF, lights, etc).
Available on Amazon:
On Android? er... well, I suppose there's Windy (the one with the red icon). For charts, the two that come to mind are OpenCPN (the Dave Register version) or Navionics. Some people like Aqua Map.
The main benefits of a dedicated plotter are the hardwired power, good visibility in full sun, can be dimmed sufficient for night use, and can still be usable in really bad weather. Personally I find the software on them less than adequate, but there aren't many good alternatives for running radar/sonar.
Many people will be happy with Navionics, and if you're going more inland that's probably a better bet for chart coverage.
Something like this “aquarium hardscape tongs”, a flashlight, keen eye and some patience, will allow you to fish the oil cap out of your gas tank. Good luck
sounds good. ..
neutral is a valid speed when docking. it doesn't need to be in fwd, or rev all the time like a car. coasting is good practice.
your interior is the biggest liability. I like to use aerospace 303 not slippery like some others.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE
what kind of current are we talking? how much wind?
I searched your boat, its a big cuddy with single i/o. I would have someone fabricate a bracket under the current swim platform, so you can attach a garlick type retractable kicker bracket. and store the engine below.
there is a container with mix amounts for different quanities
sea choice and attwoood
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I look at the radar (nexrad) and look for lines or leading edges of fronts, that will push thru.
like the tornadoes that just hit ky. that front was moving east from the west coast.
https://www.wunderground.com/radar/us
These ones https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/luxury-yachts-141779209
The anchors are still up, so they must be attached underwater. I'm just wondering how they get them because I never see them floating before the boat comes in.
It's a fake a lake. We've had one for as song as I can remember for our ski boat. Shit, even Walmart sells them. https://www.walmart.com/ip/37578311?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228026184367&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=42970719752&wl4=pla-81462900032&wl5=9030036&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&...
I apologize. I'm new to all this... I just am finding it hard to believe that anything inflatable is safe and sturdy I guess.
Something like this is what I'm thinking:
I bought one this year for a 17' Triton bass boat. I also immediately replaced all the plastic hardware with stainless, and put teflon tape between them to avoid noise. Re-riveted the new hardware on, like the plastic was. You could do pullups on this thing now, it just took $400 worth of upgraded hardware to make it nice. Fits perfectly.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHNBQJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Now sitting on the river in the sun ripping catfish out is a breeze, no more red legs and greasy hands from sunscreen.
Any BT to Aux adapter will work, you don't have to use the Fusion model. Nothing's going to give you a BT connection that you can control from the radio (to change sources or see track info) since that model Fusion has no support for it.
I wonder how something like this might work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P72V1B
It'd plug onto the old-school iPod 30-pin connector inside the radio, and give you a bluetooth connection into that. If not that particular unit, there's probably others that provide similar functionality.
>The annual Med to Caribbean migration follows the traditional trades and current.
Most of the time that makes sense. Falmouth or somewhere else coming out of the Channel to Canaries to St Lucia or elsewhere in the Windwards. Depending on the location and extent of the Midatlantic High, Falmouth to Azores to Windwards may make more sense, or as much sense especially if you haven't been to the Azores before.
Certainly West to East, Caribbean to Bermuda (or just a turning point above the trades) to Azores to UK/EU almost always is better (i.e. more pleasant ride, less heavy weather) than the traditional more Northern Route.
I had the pleasure of a number of discussions with Herb Hilgenberg by phone, radio, and in person here in Annapolis about his observations about weather patterns and the changes just during his tenure on the South Bound II Net. I've had similar discussions with Jimmy Cornell during the development of his World Oceans Atlas. The latter curates pilot chart data, mostly throwing out the older data and weighting the more current (ha!) information. Comparing the classic pilot charts with the World Ocean Atlas you can see the shifts in weather patterns. Add to that changes in recreational boats (hull form and sailing) and good speed and seakeeping on a close reach and the long-standing traditional East-West routes become less certain. Depending on forecasts, storage space, tankage, and time available there are boats for which the Med migration could well be more comfortable Falmouth-Azores-Bermuda-I65-Caribbean than a Falmouth-Canaries-St Lucia downwind wallow.
Of course much depends on where you are and where you want to go. For Americans returning from cruising the Med, the Caribbean is quite far out of the way.
Besides, the Azores is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.
You don't need a premade harness. All you need is tinned wire and some connectors.
When I rewired my trailer I used LED trailer lights and ran a separate ground to them rather than grounding through the trailer. All connections were crimped then soldered and then covered in liquid black tape and heat shrink to ensure a solid and water tight connection.
My trailer lights never flicker and always work perfectly.
Not sure if this fits your needs, but I bought this back in 2015. You don't say what size boat, but we've used it on a 19, and 21' bowrider multiple times since then and its still going. I've painted it just to keep the rust down.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VFQ9S4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I attach it to a 100' anchor line that has a carabiner on it that attaches to the loop at the top. I just anchor off the bow out, and walk the sand anchor/line to shore and screw it in. I typically jam the handle in right next to it sticking out for visibility.
If your local auto store doesn't have one, here it is on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47345-Wire-Flat-Adapter/dp/B0002RNSKK
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That is what I use to convert my trailer 4 pin to 7 pin on my car.
Look for the key code on the switch
https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Outboard-Replacement-Ignition-Precision/dp/B003901MYG
Its a pretty common style marine fuse holder, personally I hate this and would rather wire a boat with this style https://www.amazon.com/WUPP-Blade-Warning-Indicator-Damp-Proof/dp/B07GBST5NX In an easy to access area they cone with a label pack and cover and when a fuse blows an indicator light let's you know exactly which one.
I paid 80€ for the digital edition of this book, and it was amazing.
If you are proving value, you will find many people in this niche industry willing to pay more for learning.
Good luck and keep us posted
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Yacht-Marketing-101-retaining/dp/1912615509
Buy this. Strap it under your T-top or wherever. Done. No drilling, no wires, no worrying about "do I have enough house battery to run my stereo all day?" If it's not loud enough for you, buy another one and sync them up. It takes like 5 seconds. And obviously it's good off the boat as well.
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Boombox-Portable-Bluetooth-Waterproof/dp/B07JNWDT3N
These built-in stereos kill me. Coulda bought another foot of boat or a nice sonar or something else actually useful. I dunno, maybe it impresses the girls. Good luck with that, bro. Imma go fishing.
You can help narrow it down by trying a friends tow vehicle and see if the problem goes away, that way you know for sure the problem is your truck not the trailer (it’s usually the tow vehicle).
But yeah, make sure your reverse lights come on in your truck, check fuse boxes for blown fuses, and that the reverse pin in your 5 or 7-pin harness coming out of the truck gets voltage when you put it in reverse (don’t get run over). They make plugs that show which pins have power to problem solve faster.
>“Engine Tuner”
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Evinrude-OMC-Engine-777185/dp/B001KYJAL0
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it is a decarbonizer spray?
This is the one I have. Works perfect, and even has the ability to hook it up to compressed air along with manually pumping.
I'm in a similar boat (ha!) with multiple fused discs. Have you looked into just replacing the mounting of your current seat with a shock absorber like this: https://waveproshock.com/ ?
Between something like that and a lumbar support like this I think you'd be set.
That is a ridiculously long link — I don’t know what I am doing…anyways… A friend has one of these and it is super slick, just like having regular power trim. Pricy over a grand but cheaper than buying a newer motor with power trim. Some of the smaller Tohatsu’s you can get with power trim not sure on other brands.
It's the zink! They need to be changed every couple of years. To flush just disconnect the hoses and stick the dock hose in the bottom. https://www.amazon.com/Heater-Aluminum-Heaters-Eau-Trailer/dp/B0811M943D/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2CA4D7XCHEN63&keywords=boat+hot+water+heater+zinc&qid=1657828147&sprefix=boat+hot+water+heater+zink%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-5
I got them off Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097MF4DU/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_W58NFS7A0VHBBQYHD6J3_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I was just randomly browsing boat stuff and came across these. I figured why not got 20 bucks.
The difference was more than I was even expecting. Very happy with it.
I like the plastic on one side, flannel on the other. they cut the wind. aka beach blanket
ex:
Looks like it already has a skeg cover on it, may be a simple fix if you can remove it. If so check out something similar to https://www.amazon.com/Sierra-International-Panther-35-SS610-Safe-Skeg/dp/B004HYCC10
Something like this?
Do I simply cut my motor inlet line and put this inline? If so, before or after the primer fuel line pump?
It helps to have a remote starter button so you can be sitting with your face right above it while you bump the starter. Hook one lead to the positive post of the battery, the other to the small post closest to the engine block on the starter solenoid.