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But you're able to enter the BIOS, so it's less likely that you have a motherboard or power supply issue.

I would try:

Memtest86+

I'd download and install that program to a USB flash drive and allow my computer to boot into it and run for seven complete passes without error or overnight whichever is LONGER.

If there are memory errors then the testing is over and your memory likely needs replacing.

If there are no memory errors then testing your hard drive is in order.

Western Digital Data LifeGuard Diagnostic

I'd install that program to a USB flash drive and allow the computer to boot into it. I'd run the long and the short tests and if the drive failed either test I'd replace the drive.

If neither of those programs showed any errors I'd reinstall Windows.

Depending on the protocol for compressing you used then it can do multiple things.

One way is to simply compress text that happens again and again in a file. Mostly it's coding parts and the email headers. Some things you can't see with the bare eyes. But also normal text can be compressed.

Lets say you have some emails. All are to you obviously. Your email is . That's a large amount of letters for something simple. Now we compress it. Whenever your email is mentioned in the file it will be changed to "a" and when uncompressing it knows from the start of the file that a = your email. Now we saved a lot of space used on nothing. Imagine doing this with every single bit that is repeated more than once. That's a lot of space when counting the coding behind the screen.

I found it easier to understand in a graphical way the first times as well so here is an article: http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-does-file-compression-work/

Run a windows defender offline scan, and install malwarebytes and so a full scan. Failing that, backup all your important data, format the hard drives (even C drive), and reinstall windows. And when all is said and done don't install anything from the Internet that you can't verify is safe. Use Ninite.com for programs.

> my ssd inst supported by the Samsung software.

What is the manufacturer of your old and new drives?

> is there any way i can shrink it more.. deleting things etc?

I suggest analyzing the occupied space with TreeView, to see if there is anything else besides games, which can be safely deleted.

>or can I just put my steam games on there maybe?

You can move games to another drive, or just delete prior to cloning and redownload once done.

Yeah, sounds like the GPU might be problematic.

You could try running CPUID - a hardware monitoring application - to see if there is a temperature issue involved. You can get that here: http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

Just looked around a bit and found a tester specific to GPUs that it seems people suggest: http://www.ozone3d.net/benchmarks/fur/

Get http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/ and run Parted Magic to see if you can retrieve any of the files on your computer. Then use https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 Create Windows instillation media.

I guess? Honestly I wouldn't worry too much. If I was worried about it I would boot up something like partedmagic (you can run that from another USB or disc) - unmount the windows drives so it can't possibly infect it and then format the usb drive if you don't need anything from it.

http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/ (Has partedmagic on it, you would use gparted to format the drive be sure to format into ntfs or fat so Windows can read it)

> i3 6100

While you don't have the fastest gaming CPU possible it's unlikely that all of the games you played normally a while ago have suddenly become to much for your CPU. You'd need a new motherboard for a much newer CPU anyways and games should not crash just because you have a high ping.

So, you likely have a different issue that is forcing your computer to preform poorly.

I would:

Test the memory with Memtest86+ for seven complete passes or overnight whichever is longer. Download and install to a USB flash drive "Auto-installer for USB Key (Win 9x/2k/xp/7)" and allow your computer to boot into that program.

If there were errors then I'd assume the memory was bad and replace it.

If the memory tested good then I'd download and install SeaTools Bootable to a USB flash and allow my computer to boot into that. I'd run the long and short tests on all drive and if a drive failed either test I'd replace that drive.

If none of that answered any questions then I'd check for malware with a decent antivirus program like Bitdefender.

If he's upgraded that much you basically have a whole different computer at this point. Download HWMonitor to look at internal temperatures. If you see any thing over 80-90°C then its overheating

try SpeedFan it shows temperature of likely anything and you may control the fan speed as the name suggests :P - maybe setting the fan speed higher might help you instantly - if not we can look further into the problem

Try WinDirStat or similar software to better understand what’s taking up space on your disk. Then check disk management for unallocated space or unused partitions.

Also, there may be hidden recovery partition, but it shouldn’t take that much space.

Yes.

You need the drivers, and the controller apps.

drivers are here Just make sure you select all the correct things.

Controller app is here

The controller app will usually download the correct drivers FOR you, so I would start there.

AV-test.org is going to help. They are a third-party independent testing company. They have rated different solutions and just go after one with protection of 6 or perhaps 5,5 if it's way cheaper.

Direct test link: https://www.av-test.org/en/antivirus/home-windows/

However I would recommend not using windows defender. Although it has gotten way better then it's still one of the easier antivirus softwares to get around.

Best way: Use a printer with a document feeder.

Other way: scan the documents seperate and use a pdf merge tool like PDF Sam https://pdfsam.org/ (opensource) and the free version will merge pdf's without any watermarks.

Without knowing who or how they did the back up, it is impossible to say.

My guess is that they did not do a complete back up of the system to a thumbdrive unless it was very large thumbdrive.

More likley they backed up all the data into folders Desktop, Documents, Pictures, Music, etc--and no the office would not be backed up Pop the thumb drive in and see what folders/file are there

If you had office 365, you can simply restore office by going here:

https://www.office.com/

and logging in with Microsoft account.

If not you can install libre office, which will read and write office files

https://www.libreoffice.org/

it’s a low profile card so I’m hoping it’s fine enough here’s the amazon link for it

GIGABYTE GeForce GT 1030 GV-N1030D5-2GL Low Profile 2G Computer Graphics Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DY2VJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oN5cCb4D0GW0C

As for the psu I’m not 100% sure because I bought it used off Facebook market place and has gone through multiple modifications not sure if that was something they’ve touched or not but I’ll look into it ASAP

No, it didn’t but I used the I/O on my power supply to turn it off and reboot it. No worries dude, just look up display port and dvi cable on amazon.

Here’s a display port example

Moread Gold-Plated DisplayPort Cable, 6 Feet, Display Port Cable (4K@60Hz, 1440p@144Hz) DP Cable Compatible with Computer, Desktop, Laptop, PC, Monitor, Projector - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0ZHJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9TVdDbNQG9D25

Here’s a dvi cable example

AmazonBasics DVI to DVI Monitor Adapter Cable - 6.5 Feet (2 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHMFIBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rVVdDbM17ASC1

Not saying to or not to buy these specific brands but they’re examples of what they look like.

The power needed for your build plus mouse, keyboard and two 140mm fans is 257 watts.

You won't need close to 700-800 watts of power. I like Seasonic power supplies. I've had good results with them. If you are planning on a different more powerful video card sometime in the near future then you might upgrade to 500W or more.

From what I understand, you could feel a slight shock or electrocution without the earth, because you will become the earth. See http://superuser.com/questions/461898/earthing-is-it-important-for-laptops for more info

Has reverting to an older restore point made any difference? Bad driver installations can certainly cause overall system problems.

Also, if you've added any new hardware or software to the computer, try removing it. Do this in a methodical way - one thing at a time in reverse order - to isolate the issue.

If it's hardware oriented, first thing I'd do is open it up and reseat all the connections. Basically just remove and reinsert RAM, PCI cards, drive connections, etc.

Next would be to test the hardware. Run a memory test first, then move on to the other devices. There's some good starting advice on that here: http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-to-test-your-pc-for-failing-hardware/

16 Gb SanDisk usb stick, $6.50. that’s not that expensive.

Right, that's why I got an APU (I'm not a gamer). The first board worked until the BIOS update, and the second one worked for about a day, all with the onboard graphics. I didn't put in a GPU at all. I only have an old one, ASUS GeForce 210 (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I5UDO6).

Since I can't get any of the new hardware to work, in order to test out the new PSU, I put back in my old board, CPU, RAM, and GPU. Seems to be working fine so far, though it's only been a few hours.

There is but it'd require an external adapter to use AND some form of computer or laptop. If there's a computer shop nearby, you could buy an external caddy or enclosure. Think like any external HDD you have - you can take them apart and replace that HDD with the SSD as they use the same connection. Or you can buy caddies which allow you to hotswap a HDD (usually connected via USB).

Here's an external caddy at BestBuy: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/thermaltake-blacx-hard-drive-enclosure-docking-station-black/9062055.p

And here's an external enclosure at walmart for a few bucks: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Insten-2.5-SATA-External-Aluminum-Hard-Drive-HDD-Enclosure-Silver-Free-USB-Cable-Carrying-case-Screwdriver/46522448

if you plug in the usb cable the drive should normaly make some sort of sounds and/or you may feel it rumble alittle if this is true the hd is still working (so far)

i'll just link you to an article on how to fix it (try if it works) LINK to makeusof.com

Make sure the default sound chip is the Nvidia device. My video card has a sound chip, and so does my motherboard. When I want to listen to my headphones that are plugged into the motherboard I change the default sound chip to the one located on the motherboard. When I want to listen to the monitor's speakers I change the default sound chip to the one on the video card.

Sorry not this.

This one.

You may have more than one Nvidia audio device on your computer. Updating Nvidia drivers can leave "shadow" devices in your OS that are not there anymore. If there is a choice between Nvidia sound chip #1 and Nvidia sound chip #2 then choose #2 because it'll reference the latest driver.

EDITED because of mistakes.

Using a virtual machine might be the only way

or try windows 10 build in support as explained on the site from screenbeam

screenbeam win10

Hey, it looks like you've been infected with malware, possibly from clicking a pop-up from a website.

First thing I would do is refresh your web-browser. From the picture I can see you're using Firefox. Simply put this "about:support" (without the ") in your URL bar and click Refresh Firefox. Once this is complete, check to see if your homepage isn't still redirecting you to the same site (as shown in imgur).

Check in Add/Remove programs for any software that may of been installed today that you don't recognize (sort by date).

Download Malwarebytes Anti-Malware Free and run a scan on your system. This should pick up some bugs. Link: https://www.malwarebytes.org/downloads/

You can also run a program called AdwCleaner after malwarebytes has finished. Keep in mind this program will restart your computer once it's complete, so be sure to save anything you have still open. http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/

Very good question but I can not help with this. I hope somebody is paying attention to the thread who can. I did see a comment where someone said to right click on notepad and run as administrator.

All I can say is that the Windows failures led me to switch to Debian based operating systems instead.

If you merely wish to route stuff, try the administrator thing. If you wish to block advertisements, have a look at pihole:

https://pi-hole.net/

get a usb drive case or usb drive adapter and plug it in a usb port on a working PC and see if it asks for a password.

example: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-External-Enclosure-EC-UK30/dp/B00LS31KQG

Is there a camera?

Does your antivirus block access to the camera?

Does Windows have access to the camera?

Let apps use my camera.

The second I bring home a new computer, it gets a fresh install of Windows. You can get the Windows installer right off their site.

Use MagicalJellybean to get your Windows product key

If it's Windows 10, you may need to de-activate Windows before doing a fresh install.

After you've gotten a fresh install, a great site to get all your programs to get up and running without the bloat ware, is nineite. Awesome site.

They have lots and lots of backup servers worldwide hosted by users from various companies and sponsors

To get something like tpb setup you need about $500 k per month just to keep all servers up

The magnet links method i mention is also a reason

https://lifehacker.com/5875899/what-are-magnet-links-and-how-do-i-use-them-to-download-torrents

Chances are you're running on outdated version of Iexplorer that doesn't understand the newer certificates.

Download the standalone installer on your phone, plug your phone into the computer via USB, and then run it on your computer.

Standalone installer links:

32-bit version https://www.google.com/chrome/eula.html?standalone=1&platform=win

64-bit version https://www.google.com/chrome/eula.html?standalone=1&platform=win64

Do you have any other browser, like IE or Chrome? This issue may be on one browser, so give others a shot. https://www.google.com/chrome/browser/desktop/index.html IE/Edge should be preinstalled based on what version of windows you are using (pre 8 use IE, 8 and above use Edge)

I have had good luck with CableMatters docks. Pretty much any Thunderbolt dock should work with your computer but I think you will have trouble finding a dock that will also power it at the same time. So you will likely need to have your power brick plugged in as well.

Here's one I like: https://www.amazon.com/Certified-Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort/dp/B07HB7LBZK/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2C0C5DV9C7XOZ&keywords=cable+matters+thunderbolt+3+dock&qid=1638645848&s=electronics&sprefix=cablematters+th%2Celectronics%2C157&a...

Hi u/M00seDick,

I'm from Overwolf, and I came across your post. I'll be happy to help you with any Overwolf related issues :)
Could you please make sure that the Overwolf app you're trying to install was downloaded from our appstore? If it was, please let me know in a DM, or by sending in a support request form, and I'll get back to you to provide further assistance.
Thanks!

You need three things to properly emulate a PlayStation on your computer or mobile device: an emulator, a PlayStation BIOS file, and a ROM.

http://www.epsxe.com/ is a really stable one that still works on windows 10

the help page has all further info

Huh, guess it's intentional by them: http://www.osnews.com/story/22986/Another_Look_at_Online_Advertising

Oh well, guess I'll get my news elsewhere, what perverts! (Not that I need images to read something, but the funny formatting and long load time as a form of social protest? Give me a break.)

Download Belarc Advisor, run it, report back the motherboard board model.

If he self built it, Belarc should identify the model

https://www.belarc.com/AdvisorDownload

Windows is ALWAYS recording errors...most don't matter. You would actually have to list them to get a diagnosis, but the bigger issue are the crashes.

Most crashes occur due to driver issues.

Might want to download and install

http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed

To test if your GPU is the problem, run a stress test like Furmark. It will push your GPU to the limit and will show you the FPS, temperatures etc. If your computer crashes or the temps get way too high, there could be something wrong there.

What games are you playing?

Ok well first thing...

if you think its a power issue try using a semi high quality or high quality power bar. Also maybe its a faulty wire just a little to the left or right and it powers down.When the pc does boot up did you check your temperatures???if everything is normal lets go next step

Now if you have a bit of pc exp "Buy" partition magic 2013 make a bootable usb and you can check the hard drive integrity at your dads house it takes long but ive repaired a many a drives using this tool.If no go with the main stuff format drive reinstall windows..i doubt your having electrical issues if no other things would bug out at your house lights would flicker and stuff like that i think mainly you might have a corrupted HD or a heat issue

link for parted magic http://partedmagic.com/downloads/ If you have nothing vs pirates you know where to go

You've got a lot more going on here than just a few things.

I don't normally like to redirect people to a piece of software, but we could be at this for months.

This is the all in one windows repair tool http://www.tweaking.com/content/page/windows_repair_all_in_one.html

Download that and run it. I would suggest you follow it step by step and not skip anything. It will take you a loooonnnng time to get through the whole things. Several hours.

In particular, I want to repair Windows Update which is near the last step, but given how screwed up your system is I would perform all functions.

Could be faulty memory or storage.

You said you sent your computer in for repair before. What was the diagnosis and the shop's solution?

You can (or have a repair shop) run some tests on your RAM and Hard drive

What error does it give when you cannot repair? I would probably just do a fresh reinstall of Windows. Does your computer have a recovery mode?

http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/ use parted magic to get into your Windows files to save anything you need to save off Windows before a fresh reinstall.

What version of Windows do you have? If you have Windows 10 here is an iso: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Internet help: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/105541-startup-repair-run-3-separate-times.html (>>Option Two<<)

my idea: The BIOS may not have ID's the HDD, this could be fixed by disconnecting and reconnecting the HDD

worst case: HDD error - you can check it with http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/download.html boot from DVD/CD or USB

Check to see in system information in the BIOS Setup to see if there is a hard drive listed, if no hard drive is listed then it is a Hard drive failure and new hard drive is needed. SSD instead is quicker if you do replace. BUT if there is a hard drive listed then it will need a copy of Windows to be reinstalled and ther is no easy way to recover the files without a special copy of windows like https://www.hirensbootcd.org/ which you can install to a usb drive which allows you to recover files if needed

I'm not sure which version of Windows the laptop has, but installing Windows 10 will be fairly easy.

You'll need a working computer and an 8GB USB flash drive to download/install the Windows 10 install media.

If the laptop doesn't complete the Windows install from the flash drive then I'd test the memory and/or replace the hard drive.

First you'd test the memory with Memtest86+ because if the memory is bad the hard drive will also test bad.

You'd download and install that program to a USB flash drive and then allow your computer to boot into that program and run over night whichever is longer or for seven complete passes without error.

If you have errors in red then the memory more than likely needs changing.

If the computer locks-up then I'd suspect the motherboard. If the computer shuts-down or restarts I'd suspect the power supply.

If you have no errors then test your hard drive for fitness with the manufacturer's stand alone drive utility.

Honestly, if your memory passes Memtest86+ then the issue is likely your hard drive.

When my system freezes while running Memtest86+ I usually assume there is something wrong with the motherboard. The program is resilient enough to encounter memory errors and still stay active.

Do test each memory stick individually. If the system freezes while running each individual stick then there is definitely something wrong with the motherboard, as it's unlikely that each memory stick is broken.

If one stick runs without errors and without freezing then the other stick is likely bad and the motherboard is probably good.

The proper way to run Memtest86+ is for seven complete passes without error or overnight whichever is longer.

Can you feel your fan blowing hot air out of the vent? I would download and run HWMonitor so you can monitor the CPU temperature. Open the program as soon as you can after the OS loads, and keep checking the CPU temp as you carry on with your digital activities. See what it does when you're browsing the web, exploring the file system, navigating through settings, and so forth. If the CPU temp gets too high it will downclock itself to mitigate overheating which will negatively affect performance. Overheating could be caused by a cooling fan that needs replaced, very old and solid thermal paste between the CPU's IHS and the heatpipes, or a buildup of dust that prevents sufficient airflow in the laptop chassis. Given that the laptop is some years old, I would guess it is one of the three things I mentioned, but it is possible that it is something else.

Could you install and run this? It should tell you live temperature readings for almost every part. If you could run this, let me know what the temps are. Link to a picture if you’d like. Either way works.

Also it’s pretty late right now so I won’t be responding for the next 8-10 hours.

Lets start at the battery, it is possible that the battery is at it's end. I would say it is a bit quick but then again i have seen battery's fail sooner than 2 years.

In some models a degraded battery can cause the system to run slower than usual but i don't think this is the case. But it is simple to test just remove the battery and run the laptop on AC power and see if this fixes the problem.

Than the more likely cause. Thermal throttling, wich bassicaly means the laptop is slowing down to prevent overheating. This speaks with the fans going louder than they used to. You can check the temperature of the laptop with various programs, one of my favorites is HWMonitor from CPUID https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

Overheating is most likely caused by dust blocking the exit fan and as a result of that the laptop cannot cool as well and the thermalpaste will dry out wich adds to the thermal issue even more. This is easily fixed if you are not affraid of opening the laptop (wich can be easy or harder depending on the exact model.)

In short; open the laptop > remove the dust > Apply new thermalpaste > Close the laptop.

Furthermore, doing a fresh reinstall of windows will always help to make the system more responsive and depending on the current specifications of the laptop adding an SSD will probably make it better than when you first got it.

You can always pull the drive and insert it in a dock and retrieve the files from a different computer.

Your BIOS screen is a little fuzzy. Which is your boot drive? It looks like you have two drives--or is one an optical drive?

You can download a copy of windows 10 to a usb drive and try to run an offline repair from it, likehere

https://winaero.com/blog/how-to-run-the-sfc-scannow-command-if-windows-10-does-not-boot/

&#x200B;

Buy another harddrive and insert it

Go here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows7

download a copy of windows 7 that matches your previous operating system (should be a sticker on bottom of laptop)

You can use the above to make new installation media and reinstall windows

Cant say this is the first time I have heard of this happening to someone who reverted from 10 back to their previous OS. I would just do a clean install of the version of windows 7 you have a licence for. Check here if you do not have the disk or a recovery partition.

~~What are you using to monitor temps?~~ I went into your post history and saw what your using to monitor temps.

Core Temp will allow you to log temps as you play and review them a few minutes after your frame rates drop and you exit the game. You will have to set the program to log, and your frames might a drop a little further when it's logging temps.

GPU-Z will allow you to log your RTX 2070's temps as you play and you can review them a few minutes after your frame rates drop and you exit the game. You will have to set the program to log, and your frames might drop a little further when it's logging temps.

They will do a better job than the Task Manager.

On another computer get a USB an download Ubuntu and then use a program called Rufus to install it to your USB: https://rufus.ie/ https://ubuntu.com Hit your bios or your boot menu button on start up (if you go to bios change it for the USB to boot up before Windows) - boot to Ubuntu and run the live USB. You can mount your hard drive from there by clicking on it and then you can get your files.

You could make a bootable usb drive from another computer then select this as the boot drive. You will need an .iso image from the operating system you wish to install. You can do it from the cmd with just a few commands, but it’s easier to do it with an app like rufus . Hope this helps :)

It is the right decision not to let him keep the program. Be aware that these kinds of programs can cost a LOT of money and there are good alternatives for free. I can recommend a few.

Lightworks is an advanced movie software that has been used to make professional movies. I have heard good recommendations on it and tried it once myself. I would recommend showing him it and trying to figure it out because it should be capable of doing a lot of different things: https://www.lwks.com/ - the pro edition is only useful for professionals as it is about formats, codecs and other kinds of things that shouldn't be a problem

Otherwise VideoPad Video Editor is an easy to get to movie effect/editor. Same with VSDC Free Video Editor by what I heard.

So if I read this correctly, sound used to come through both your headset and speakers at the same time and you never had to switch? I'm not sure what OS you're no other than that it's windows, but this link should be able to solve your issues.

Try scanning your computer with malwarebytes. It doesnt seem like Webroot is that good of an antivirus solution (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Webroot). For some reason they're not tested by AV-test but have previously gotten really bad scores so perhaps they quit the cooperation to hide how bad their protection is. I know they can have changed much since 2016 but why have they not been third party certified then?

Personally I would switch to another antivirus (one of the good ratings on this site: https://www.av-test.org/en/antivirus/home-windows/ ). Also remember that many programs offer trial versions and after your trial runs out or during uninstall you usually would get a discount offered.

That "save as" dialog is trying to save an iPhone backup as a .myki file. That is not Apple's format.

A Google suggests this is being done by a third-party security app on your machine named [Myki][https://myki.com). Whether that is legit or not, I do not know. Did you knowingly install it?

Here is something that could help you then. It's a firmware addon to the router that will do what you want it to do. There may be others that exist if this is not compatible with your router, but I do not know them.

I'd recommend using dban on your machine, backup all important files and then use dban on your machine.

https://dban.org/

https://tiptopsecurity.com/how-to-securely-wipe-your-hard-drive-with-dban-erase-your-data-for-good/

I think you might have adware installed on your pc. Did you happen to download and run anything from the company IOBIT? Like the driver updated or their cleaning software? If so your gonna want to uninstall those.

Also run a scan on your system with AdwCleaner. It's a free product from the makers of MalwareBytes that will do a quick scan of your computer, look for and remove adware.

https://www.malwarebytes.com/adwcleaner/

i have to point out that i have no idea about the law in the usa or any state so i'd suggest you learn about it alittle, to see if you can remove it yourself or if theres any weird law like in germany where the "evidence" has to stay on the system which renders the pc useless for the time being

for later https://www.malwarebytes.com/adwcleaner/

this is a link to adwcleaner is helps to track down and get rid of ad- & spyware/potential unwanted programs

Did you use an Adblock while surfing Youtube? if so, try disabling it or replace it with a resource friendlier one like uBlock < Chrome-store link

Also, if you really want to save CPU/RAM/GPU usage, consider using another browser than Chrome!

I use Waterfox

https://files.fm/u/wgeq7ve5 (Specs + msinfo32)

Laptop ACER Predator G9-593-7660, Intel® Core™ i7-6700HQ 15.6" Full HD, 8GB, SSD 512GB, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB

Also if you want i can provide you memory dump file. I managed to take it while the black screen occured (right ctrl + scroll lock).

Also I would like to mention that previously, just after i bought the laptop, i sent the laptop to the warranty for the flickering issue, they said that the flickering didnt occur in their tests, and they changed my display just in case, but is still flickering as you can see in the video.

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Few things I would try:

1. Copy-paste the folder to the desktop, make the changes you want, and return/overwrite the old folder by cut-paste.

2. Reset/delete your account credentials in the Credentials Manager (restart the pc after that)

3. Last resort - Unlocker http://www.emptyloop.com/unlocker/ RClick on the folder to get the Unlocker menu. I am skeptical that this program will work, however.

Have you considered contacting the owner for backups? I did some google research and it appears to be a guy by the name of Sergeant D, he was active on Disqus 4 days ago. Here's also his profile on MetalSucks. Hopefully that helps.

Hmmm weird...

Try using a third party software like this one:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.marc.files

Edit: go into "pictures" and then it will show which apps downloaded photos, whattsapp for example or reddit or whatever app you have. Then click on it and it's supposed to show you the pictures the app have downloaded.

thank you for your insights!

what about buying a webcam and microphone separately? the microphone might look something like this

https://www.amazon.ca/Computer-Microphone-Condenser-Recording-Podcasting/dp/B07BDFP6XC

also, for the webcam + microphone combination, would the microphone work WHILE the webcam is turned off?

Good luck claiming that warranty, they have no website and no online presence.

https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-PCIe-Internal-Gaming-MZ-V8P1T0B/dp/B08GLX7TNT/ref=sr_1_91?dchild=1&amp;keywords=1tb+nvme&amp;qid=1618633628&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A6797521011&amp;rnid=6797515011&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-91

I found a deal on Amazon for the 11th gen with board, and it is a better board.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i5-11400-Desktop-Processor-Motherboard/dp/B0925Q7BBB/ref=sr_1_2?crid=6SL1XD9EKOCQ&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=i5-11400&amp;qid=1618527383&amp;sprefix=I5-11%2Caps%2C242&amp;sr=8-2

No deals on the 10th gen.

Looks like prices are going up.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Processor-Processors-BX80684I59400-Motherboard/dp/B08BPGKD82/ref=sr_1_2?crid=109HY9DHIXFT0&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=motherboard%2Bcpu%2Bcombo&amp;qid=1617823690&amp;sprefix=Motherboard%2B%2Caps%2C245&amp;sr=8-2&amp;th=1

I chose Bosnia - Herzegovina, and it is available April 14.

Seems like you tried everything in the book. Perhaps try to get a 2.5 inch drive dock (something like this) and plug in the drive from the laptop into it and then the dock to your desktop. Then you should be able to access the files.

Or you could send it to the manufacturer or a laptop repair place.

DisplayPort to HDMI cable.

Does your CPU have integrated graphics?

If it does the you might be able to enable the integrated graphics in the motherboard's BIOS while the video card is running. Integrated graphics are turned off by default when a video card is plugged into the motherboard. You will want to explore your BIOS and look for IGD Multi-Monitor, and enable it.

OK, say you get the integrated graphics working. When your video card "captures" the video, like when you play a game in full screen, the second monitor will go black. You won't be able to "extend" a game to the second screen because the video card will have taken over running all of the graphics and the second screen isn't attached to the card.

The Nvidia control panel will only "see" the monitors attached to video outputs on the card.

A DisplayPort to HDMI cable will allow you to connect your second monitor to the video card.

If USB Mics work for you theyre pretty cheap.

It sounds to me like your internal mic went out, and may have shorted out the mic plug at the same time. But without taking it apart, its hard to say.

I wouldnt hold your breath, the first review on amazon says his had a dodgy fan on the on the water cooler radiator, sounds like that's your problem. The system you have has a closed loop so it'll look similar to this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BWNWQKJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_19LaCbXK1PKSS

That's going to be the part that's not working. Just send it back mate, you bought a new product and it should work out of the box, it's not worth the messing about, I know you don't want to hear that, and it's a shame when you just want to play but at the end of the day they should be sending you a fully working model. The only other thing I can suggest is making sure all the fans, especially this one are plugged in properly, it may have become loose in transit

It's trying to boot from a network. This means that the hard drive is either dead or the windows install on the hard drive is dead. This could be a good time to replace that drive with an ssd. You can get a 240gb ssd on amazon for $30

Kingston 240GB A400 SSD 2.5'' SATA 7MM 2.5-Inch SA400S37/240G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5IB20Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fUORCbB3BH5S6

I would go for This as a drive, and This as an enclosure - Ive been using this pair as an external game library for probably 5 years, and havent had any hiccups

Honestly a vpn is something you really should consider why you want to use. Generally any free vpn's are either quite slow or a gigantic mess of privacy issues. If you are not at least a bit technically skilled and therefore manage your browsing correctly then it rarely helps on privacy anyways and vpns are not a magic way to higher speeds or similar things they might want to tell either.

The only proper security a vpn would offer a completely normal user is the way they try to encrypt your traffic when using public and potentionally compromised wifi's, it is not a security guarantee but it helps a bit.

Personally I can recommend ProtonVPN but using a vpn requires placing your complete trust in the vpn provider as they get the opportunity to watch all your network traffic (theoretically). I chose proton for that reason but it's a very personal choice and usually depends on what you want to use a vpn for too.

I have a feeling this might be it. I updated my bios to latest so that might be contributing to the problem. This is the processor I bought. Do you know which Ryzen 1600 this is:

Part Number: YD1600BBAEBOX

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XNRQHG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Why not connect both screens to the video card? EDIT I understand that you don't have two HDMI ports on your video card.

Connect both screens to the video card and turn on the computer. Use a DisplayPort cable with locks if your monitor is capable. High speed monitors should have DisplayPort video inputs! DisplayPort cable with locks.

Use a DisplayPort to HDMI conversion cable for the TV, You'll need a cable with DisplayPort locks.or just use an HDMI cable.

Right click the desktop and choose Display Settings from the context menu.

The screen on your left is usually one and the screen on your right is usually two.

In the Display settings menu click Identify button and then drag the screen labeled 1 to the left if it's not already on the left.

Set the screen resolution for screen one.

Display Orientation is usually Landscape.

Extend these displays.

Then click on the screen labeled 2 and set its screen resolution.

Doing this will not slow the performance of your fast monitor. My RX 5700 XT operates both of my 144Hz monitors at 144Hz because I'm using DisplayPort cables on both monitors. Your HDMI cable my not be up to snuff. The HDMI video input on your monitor may only be capable of 120Hz. The HDMI video output on your video card may only be capable of 120Hz. You'll have to check that out. If your monitor has a DisplayPort then certainly use that.

If you insist on connecting your TV to the motherboard, then when you play a game on the monitor the TV will go black.

EDIT I edit for grammar and clarity, and as I think of additional information. I usually press the save button far to soon.

>So I must ask, is it still safe for me to use this PSU?

No.

It doesn't matter how it came to burn something. There should not have been enough current to make something burn.

Replace the power supply.

I've built a computer for Sims 3 that would also run Sims 4. A video card should be included even though the requirements are fairly lite.

If your wife runs The Sims with cheats she'll need a bunch of memory as cheats use tons of memory.

I understand you want cheap so I'll do my best.

Something like this would do the job, but it has a 30 day warranty.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-IPS-Type-GeForce-Battery-TUF506IU-ES74/dp/B0865RZR9S/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=ryzen+laptop+gaming&amp;qid=1594793223&amp;sprefix=ryzen+laptop&amp;sr=8-4

This one is good if 16gb ram is enough.

This is the one I got and I paid like $150 on Black Friday! Was well worth it but they don’t have it in stock on Amazon anymore.

Would recommend getting it if it comes back in stock or if you find it elsewhere.

https://www.amazon.com/AOC-C24G1-Frameless-DisplayPort-Adjustable/dp/B07GD7H18F

It is a power supply, not the power data combination. The power and data cord combination will look like this (the female end at least). Where did it come from? Is there anything that looks compatible to that plug? Is currently attached on the other end to anything?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SW925DQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1 is that good i think i am going to get that

If you're looking for something free, I find ProtonVPN to work really well (to use it, you just download & install it from the internet like any other software program)

If you're the handy type of person, then buy a raspberry pi starter pack (it'll cost you ~$100 USD) there is simple open source software that you can run on it to setup your own vpn and forego a subscription based service all together

If you're willing to shill out some money every month, then I'd strongly recommend NordVPN, install it the same way you'd install any other software for your computer

However, I'm unsure whether a VPN could bypass your isp throttling, if they're using a physical throttle to decrease bandwidth (like what my current isp is doing) then a VPN will not work. If they are throttling you using software thats based around your IP address, then a VPN will work

You can go with two power supplies, but you don't need to do that and your case probably won't fit two supplies. Your system likely draws less than 550Watts.

https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-650FX-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B073H33X7R/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=seasonic+%27power+supply&amp;qid=1569097956&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1

In case you need a VPN for just some short time then I can recommend ProtonVPN, although it is rather expensive for the long run. They also have a free version (not limited or tracked in anyway) but where you are only allowed to use the free servers. The free servers are a bit slower than the rest and don't allow torrenting but other than that no issues there. It claims to have a no-logs policy too. When you sign up for a free account you get basic membership for free 7 days without credit card confirmation. Premium/Plus membership has a few extra servers compared to basic but you should do fine with either free or basic membership. 1 month is 4$ as yearly plan or 5$ for paying each month.

it could be the HDMI cable is not capable in keeping up the high output

try replacing it with for instance the goobay hdmi Premium 2.0 cable which is designed for high end use

https://www.amazon.com/RELM-HDMI-Cable-High-Speed-PlayStation/dp/B0742NBZCZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=goobay+hdmi+premium&amp;qid=1560279878&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1

Probably the better option.

Or something like this.

Whatever you buy make sure it'll work with your SSD. I didn't make sure everything will work with your device.

Hot glue will probably not do the job. It's not usually strong enough. You'll probably need a foaming glue to fill the cracks and hold the nut tight.

Something like this.

Well if you ever go on public/unsecured wifi then it would be safest with a vpn. As for that I can recommend ProtonVPN but there are plenty of vpn rankings. Choose one with no logs policy for privacy. Else there really isn't much to do except having a good and welltested antivirus/malware program and updating often unless you want to be extremely paranoid and directly choose which programs you have installed based on their risk factors.

I tried and VPN 360.

A web site I use for work keeps kicking me out because I visited it too many times. I don’t know why it does it. I asked someone how to override it and I was told to use a VPN.

You will need to see video before you can change anything.

Borrowing a known working video card as a test would be cheaper.