AMD as a company is actually not doing too hot at the moment. They have let their RND go to crap so intel and NVidia are totally dominating in the PC market right now.
From what I understand, PS3 emulation is still tricky, even on PC. I'd just recommend using the console. Though some PS3 games are on PS Now via PS4/5 and PC
If you want a handheld, I love the RG351P for roms (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K93JTSJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It plays GB/A, N64, PSP, PS1, and older platforms very well.
Additionally, many PS2 games are available digitally on PS3 (I imagine many Sonic games are available that way). At least until Sony closes the PS Store on PS3.
Vita plays PSP and PS1 games as well natively, until Sony closes that store. But many people hack their Vitas to play GBA and other older platforms.
You can. Hori (which make excellent controllers) has an Xbox like controller for the PS4. There is also an aftermarket accessory that will let you use your Xbox controller on PS4. Not sure if Sony has released an update to circumvent the accessory. However there are reviews dated for 2016 on the amazon page where people have been able to use their Elite Controller on the PS4.
http://www.geek.com/games/ps4-owners-gain-option-of-xbox-one-like-controller-1625949/
https://www.amazon.com/CronusMax-Cross-Cover-Gaming-Adapter-Windows/dp/B013E2KD5M
Sry if I am bovering you, but is this a good one for the Xbox Series X, I only care about how fast it is https://www.amazon.de/Seagate-Speichererweiterungskarte-NVMe-Erweiterungs-SDD-Service-Modellnr/dp/B09BJYFJ6G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=72842097033&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgribBhDkARIsAASA5bsC9ZHTLtZc_hJthSYgd2UCBaO9rRlXW2kFJRcQWNniG1cs1-UB6osaAvQTEALw...
it doesn't matter if your wireless controller uses RF or bluetooth, as long a reciever can be plugged in via usb. But even then, it's unfortunately a little more convoluted.
Xbox One (and Xbox 360) both have a controller authentication that is checked when you connect a controller. If the proper authentication response isn't returned, the Xbox will just ignore the controller.
It is possible to connect a foreign controller, but you'll need something that can passthrough the authentication data from an appropriate controller and passthrough commands from a third party controller. I use a CronusMax Plus, which makes it fairly straight forward:
Alternatively, you can plug a usb hub into the CronusMax Plus, with original controller in first USB port, and 360 reciever in second port, and CronusMax Plus will take care of the rest so you don't have to unplug anything.
I've used it to connect my Wii U Pro controller (via mayflash adapter, that imitates an Xbox 360 controller) to my Xbox One. And I'm currently on the lookout for an original wired 360 controller, so I can do the same thing on my 360.
The really old consoles I'm not 100% sure on, but those with composite can use one of these switches. I have 7 consoles going into a crt tv.
You might need more than one depending on how many consoles you have. If your tv has more than one composite in then you could split them between that. Otherwise you'd need to pipe the 8-way through another switch box.
Get a HDMI switch with audio out, that'll allow you to have extra hdmi-in port to plug in all the console and PC you want to use and it'll also spit out audio out via 3.5mm stereo plug or optical.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG
I use this Kinivo AV switch. It works well for me to switch between multiple systems on the same hdmi input. I'm only doing 1080p but check they might have a 4k version. It usually will automatically switch over when the new unit is powered on. In the rare times it doesn't work - You can just hit one button on the included remote to move up to the next input.
You might need a hdmi edid emulator. This is the one that I use. This is assuming that you monitor can display 120 hz natively.
Maybe it would help you if I provide you a link of the TV. This is exactly the TV I have with the ports on the back.
So first off, the red and white on your component (YPbPr) cables can go directly to the composite (red white yellow) for audio. They're equivalent. Video is a little harder.
If your wii is set to 480i output, you can plug one of the YPbPr cables in to the yellow port and you should see something. Iirc the red one will give you the full video but only black and white. If your wii is set to 480p (progressive scan) or higher this will not work.
My suggestion would be to just buy a new composite adapter for the wii rather than messing around with stacking other adapters. Available on Amazon for 6.99 https://www.amazon.com/Aokin-Cable-Audio-Video-Nintendo/dp/B08HX2CTWY/
This is probably not what you're looking for, but as an extreme edge case I can recommend this 16-port switch. It's hella expensive but it's extremely reasonable compared to most 16-in-1 switches. But this is ONLY for weirdos like me who keep all their non-redundant (mostly retro) consoles plugged in at the same time :P
However I would not use that for current-gen because it didn't seem to like my PS5 in HDR mode. Also, my TV can't auto-detect and sync with my consoles when I run them through this switcher, so I lose the ability to use the Magic Remote with them. So I keep my PS5 and XSX plugged directly into the TV. I'd actually love to see anyone's recommendations for an HDR and Magic Remote-friendly switcher, even if it's only like a 3 to 1 or 2 to 1 switcher.
> This is entirely down the the developer and has nothing to do with the platform.
> But like, you can connect a TV to a PC.
But it's a fact that very few PC games support HDR or local multiplayer.
Regarding both points, I suspect the reason is that a console is much more likely to be found in a living room connected to a TV and in front of a couch, a PC is less likely to be used that way. As you say, you can connect anything to anything, and you can also move your console to any room in your house, but game developers will optimize for the typical use case.
You’re probably not going to have luck finding much and what you do find will be very expensive just by nature of either being low demand or enterprise level. I found a couple things but they usually have a drawback.
16 port switch that can do 4K but only at 30Hz and $380. The 8 port version is $280 but has the same drawbacks.
8 port switch that claims to support 4K 60 but also very expensive at $360 and only has 8 ports.
I’m sure you can find something but you will be paying a lot of money to get a single unit with your requested specs.
Switch if you can get it on sale. PS4 sounds like the best option, you can use DS4Windows to use your controller on PC. Don't know where you're coming from with "more expensive", unless you're looking at the beefier Pro version. Xbox has better "free" games every month.
Edit: you can also buy an official adapter for the PS4 controller, but it costs money.
PS4 Pro hands down. If you're dealing with standard 1080p then resolution wise either console won't matter. But PS4 has the bigger and better exclusive library. Also you'd definitely want to play MHW and Destiny 2 on PS4. Destiny had exclusive strikes and content on PS4 before so it's likely Destiny 2 will. Also: https://kotaku.com/sony-is-releasing-a-monster-hunter-world-ps4-before-the-1818536179
Edit: strikes for raids
I have a PS3 and nope, there is no VPN client that I'm aware of in PS3. Since I don't have a PS4, I did a quick search though, PS4 is not likely to have a VPN client, either.
IPSec is one of the most popular types of VPN. To login, you have to do it on a computer or an iOS device. To video game consoles, it's purely a no-go because they don't need them.
If you Google "PS4 VPN", ads from VPN service providers will return. Please ignore them since they're irrelevant in your case. However, I have two options for you.
One thing to keep in mind is that older consoles don't look that great on modern TVs and certain TV's don't even accept 240p signals. There are ways around it that, but they can get kind of complicated.
If you're looking for a sort of simple result, I'd recommend the Original Xbox along with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V73764F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_in4SFb8P6JSFP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I can't really vouch for this product, as I am a lunatic and have my original Xbox running into a scaler I paid way too much money for. However, the reviews seem positive.
I think the OG Xbox is a good fit as it's the most modern friendly and the easiest for someone to just jump into without too much effort.
My fiancee bought me this last x-mas, took a little bit to install and had to solder a few wires but it works quite well.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.microsoft.xcloud
That link is for Android. I'm sure there is an app for the iPhone. It's called XBOX GAME STREAMING. looks like it's a preview/beta app. I still haven't run it yet, so I can speak to how well it works. Might try today and let you know.
Hdmi switch. Here’s the one I bought on Amazon: Kinivo 501BN 4K HDMI Switch with IR Wireless Remote (5 Port, 4K 30Hz, Auto-Switching) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EoJHFbZ68AXC8 Works great!
If the TV has 4 inputs and you were able to connect the console then there has to be a way to switch input to it. I would try to google the manual. If you can't connect the 4th console I would get an HDMI splitter. I recently purchased the one linked below and haven't had any of the problems the others mentioned.
https://www.amazon.com/Koopman-Switcher-Selector-Supports-18-5Gbps/dp/B0837K31GX
Do you have a splitter or a switcher? if you have something like this here all 4 of your consoles would go into this switch and you would have one cable coming out of the box and going into the TV. You would then use the switcher to "change inputs"
There's three main aspects of buying a monitor. You can choose two
1., 4K resolution
2., 144Hz
3., Cheap price. (If you want a 4k 144Hz monitor, you are not likely to find anything below 1000£)
On the other hand, a 4K monitor or a 144Hz one can be found really cheap, Samsung have both around 300£
One of them is a 32" 4K one
The other one is a 32" 1440p resolution, and 144Hz, this one, which I recommend more since the difference between 1440p and 4K resolution is way less than the difference between 60fps and 144fps, and the PS5 will have 120 (maybe 144?)fps support, with probably a bunch of games will be available at this framerate too
If you want a monitor that's 4K 60fps, it probably won't look better than your TV. The latency is not really an issue for me personally, but you may feel more change
There was another with sounds it was a forza edition that did an engine sound on power up instead of the beeps. Personally it would be best to have but the price is probably not worth it unless you just want a show piece especially with next gen coming so soon.
Edit to add link
https://www.amazon.ca/Xbox-One-Forza-Limited-Bundle/dp/B0108YZCYQ
If you scroll down through the description on the Amazon page, it says that it does not include motion control, vibration feedback , or NFC functions.
I use this one for my PS4 and Wiiu. Works great.
SMARTOOO 23031 4K@60Hz HDMI 2.0 HDMI Switcher 3x1| HDR 3 Ports HDMI Switch 3x1(3 inputs and 1 output) 4:4:4 with remote control and auto switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ0K1NH?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I'm using this one with a Xbox One X and PS4 Pro. It's performed flawlessly for the past few months I've had it. There are no perceivable differences between plugging my consoles into my TV directly, or running them though this switcher. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQM4GEV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gold Headset Platinum Headset The Platinum one costs more, but supports 3D audio for select PS4 titles.
Just make sure it has HDR on it or else you're wasting your time. This is the one my brother just got and it looks really clean when we're playing Overwatch. Granted the linked one is this year's edition and he bought his last winter some time.
Edit: Just noted you wanted a 65", the same rule applies. Get from a decent brand with a good warranty (Fuck you Samsung) and make sure it has the HDR to get the best out of the PS4 pro.
CD binders will lead to scratches. Buy a shelf. Here's a relatively inexpensive one that holds a lot of games.. I had to buy something like this for the same reason.
The 2 TB model in this link is popular for what you're asking. It takes a little fiddling, but is supposedly not too complicated. I've been meaning to do it myself when I can afford it. Check out the amazon comments or a simple google search should find the answer.
As far as I know there are no 4K-IPS monitors, 4K is LED. My father has this monitor and he loves it.
Oh i know. I was thinking about getting something like this
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00E2TKB5E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A21O1O0VBTB0YT&psc=1.
I have no idea is my console is a "slim" model. I think it is though. I just know it's an arcade.
I found out that the PlayStation Gold headset works with Xbox one! This will be the one headset I need for my PS3/PS4/Xbox One/PC! It requires an adapter for xbox one but works out of the box on the other 3 devices. https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-Gold-Wireless-Stereo-Headset-4/dp/B00HVBPRUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470697634&sr=8-1&keywords=playstation+gold+headset
Could it be the original xbox?
https://www.amazon.com/Halo-Special-Xbox-Game-System/dp/B002B5FQC4
This is one version and that is around the time it was out. What did the controller look like? Did it have dual joysticks? Did it have 4 face buttons, dpad, and trigger buttons?
You should get a good 24 or 27 inch monitor, IPS panels are really good and yes 1080p is enough. I have used an Asus MG279Q for my PS4, but now I'm using a TV. The image quality was awesome, but for the sound I had to use a HDMI audio extractor, it isn't hard to setup, basically you just have to hook everything up.
It's absolutely possible to hook a computer up to it.
If your computer has HDMI output, this will do the trick. Don't believe the "hurr durr didn't work" reviews, they either weren't setting up their HDMI out correct or they forgot to toggle the NTSC/PAL switch (which will give you a rolling and/or black and white image). If you have DVI, VGA, etc., there are options for that as well. I used a mini Displayport to VGA, then VGA to composite adapters on my 2009 Macbook Pro and get perfect composite video even though I had to convert twice. I often found myself forgetting if I was playing the real hardware or an emulator until I looked down and remembered I was using a USB controller (I own much of the real hardware and played it as well). Then I moved and switched to an HDTV and definitely appreciated the HQ2X filter to clean up the blocky graphics you get on an HD screen.
The games you play on your Wii are still emulated and honestly the homebrew emulators are probably more accurate to the real console or may even be licensed to Nintendo for the Wii VC in the first place. The emulator community takes accuracy very seriously and retro systems are getting emulated to the point that they accurately replicate incorrect functions as a real system would (i.e. a glitch will work the same). Some systems like N64 still aren't perfect, but anything pre-1995 is damn near perfect at this point.