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I’m a fan of these. They’re a plastic mesh and they take paint very well and are easy to heat form into shape.
ThreeBulls 12 Pcs 140mm PVC Black PC Cooler Fan Dust Filter Dustproof Case Cover Computer Mesh https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N950ZB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vQZyDbH1PT1NK
Might be pretty hard to find something like that. Honestly it looks like something that you'd want to vacuum form to get the right size.
The only thing I can think of might be like a display case like this - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B082SSYQTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_KTNMCX7G4TS05SF73V7F
Your best bet would be a plastic plant dome like these https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Reusable-Plant-Protector-Cover/dp/B08YN8RTTJ/ref=asc_df_B08PFKSG1V/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=496943500923&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8982249737241513929&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hv...
Typical EVA cosplay foam.
Ex:
https://www.amazon.com/Foam-Cosplay-Black-Sheet-Density/dp/B07DCGMXQZ/
I would get the shell or base shape blocked out in foam, almost like a semi ridged gauntlet, and then cover it in fur.
https://www.amazon.com/DMAIP-Tactical-Adjustable-Lightweight-Breathable/dp/B08K8G4VCQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Airsoft+Tactical+Vests&qid=1619790452&refinements=p_36%3A1253556011&s=paintball&sr=1-26&ts_id=... just buy it unless you are already an adept at sewing
You can use something like a cordless electronic screwdriver to spin the barrel, or repurpose a toy that already does that.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/Dart-Zone-Commando-Gatling-Blaster/dp/B072Q438PT/
You’d have to check out @3DWORKBENCH on Instagram, I got the file from his Patreon but he’s put it out for free on his 3D model website
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/cyberpunk-2077-militech-vindicator-9mm
From personal experience I prefer a gravity fed airbrush than a siphon fed. Easier clean up and paint usage. I use the iwata neo and a compressor that came with an airbrush just to get used to using it before I started using the iwata.
Link:iwata neo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004INERK4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MDXGM5Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hope this helps and welcome to the hobby!
Spirit gum is what's used on stage and films. Not sure what you have around your house, but there are my many nontoxic adhesives commonly found. A dot of superglue is a possibility, but very, very dangerous near the eyes. Rubber cement / contact cement contains solvents that damage your nervous system.
Double-sided tape, maybe.
Where are you located? If you're in the US here's one on amazon. It's cheap (relatively) but it's not really sturdy enough for actual play (according to reviews) but it's good for cosplay/halloween (one of the reviews says they used it for a shaun of the dead costume even). There's a few others on amazon (there's kids bats that are cheaper if you don't care about it being accurate size).
You're probably not going to find one in stores (in the US) because it's not really a popular sport here, but you could potentially try looking at some big sports retailers. There's always ordering online though.
You can use car body filler to fill and reinforce the inside to give it strength. Something like this is the type of thing I mean. You will need proper gas/vapour respirator and mixing tools/surface but it sets hard and fast and should provide the strength you need if you put it inside the areas you are worried about
Sounds like you just need a battery powered strip for one color, something like this?
Depends on how much you need and what color you want.
Granted those look to be there for 'shadows' in that character's face, you can draw them on with a standard black makeup pencil.
ex: https://www.amazon.com/Mehron-Makeup-Pencil-Liner-Black/dp/B004C1252Y
https://www.amazon.com/Mehron-Makeup-ProPencil-Slim-Black/dp/B008OUZA2Q
I forgot who did these or at least similar ones but basically it was all parts from stuff that they put together in a unique way. Like RC parts and random bits and Bob's. In your example the ears look like carabiners. the visors are probably these
Here's a vest I found on Amazon that might work
"Amazon.com : Vereisse Tactical Vest Outdoor , Adjustable Training Protective Vest, Suitable for Light Outdoor Gilet Equipment : Sports & Outdoors" https://www.amazon.com/Vereisse-Tactical-Adjustable-Protective-Equipment/dp/B0B362NTZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_11_sspa?crid=2JCF7IUL8RS5E&keywords=childrens+tactical+vest&qid=1665506888&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjEwIiwicXNhIjoiNC43NiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTAifQ%3D...
You could probably use a mixture of cotton webbing straps for the main belt See https://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Upholstery-Cotton-Webbing-Strengh/dp/B07RCJF488/ref=asc_df_B07RCJF488/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=538679772688&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13457045006577859099&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hv...
And some EVA foam for the blue/purple bits...
As for the buckles, again EVA foam would probably work.
I would suggest using velcro to actually hold it together...
Interested to see how you get on!
I would buy this wooden broom:
https://www.amazon.com/Mendi-Corn-Broom-Fantasy-Style/dp/B00SUSOVDG
Then put foam or some other bulk in the center of the bristles to make it bulge. Wrap the bristles around and tie them off at the top. Use paint to hide the ties and any visible portion of the foam. Go to a thrift shop to find some metal lamp part to cover the joint between broom and handle. Probably will need some gel adhesive or caulk to get the part to stay. Or you could drill/screw it.
If you're looking for good paints, I would highly recommend Warhammer 40,000 paints and tools set I use them to paint cosplay props and 3D printed models!
The visor itself can be made with acrylic that has a pattern etched onto it and an LED, it makes the pattern glow. Or get some that are already made and cut them in half https://www.amazon.com/Glasses-Futuristic-Honeycomb-Luminous-Cosplay/dp/B099N3TKHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sci+fi+goggles&qid=1664196952&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjI5IiwicXNhIjoiMy40OSIsInFzcCI6IjIuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-7
this is a good one Hydraulic too
I would go with a d-ring near the shoulder you want this on, and a d ring on the opposite bottom end.
Then use a basic hunting rifle strap.
Ex: https://www.amazon.com/BOOSTEADY-Adjustable-Outdoor-Sports-Hunting/dp/B07GQZR7SJ
Alternatively you can make the strap out of leather or what not, but use the quick release clips.
You could get a pair of these. I have some nerf revolvers setup with them. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Smartphones-Cameras-Talkies-Remotes/dp/B00006JPBY/ref=mp_s_a_1_16_mod_primary_new?crid=3IBWUVB2MF94J&keywords=phone+quick+belt+clip&pscroll=1&qid=1663777667&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&am...
You can use these foam balls. punch a hole through with a small pipe or even a pencil. Seal with modpodge or glue. Paint.
With these, it's possible to remove the darkened lenses but leave the transparent ones:
I love The 20th Century Boys trilogy!
Spend the $15 and get a white zentai hood from Amazon. You can see pretty clearly through them. You can draw or silk screen the symbol on face.
This is what you're after but this particular brand appears to have a logo on the back of the neck. You'll either have to deal with that or find a different brand...
I used these, along with a regular 9 volt battery. I made the entire head detachable, and hid the battery inside of the base of the head. The button was then placed at the top of the axe so the wooden part could cover it.
No, this is very low quality polystyrene. EVA is like stalwart köpük. It looks very nice when it's cut with a hotknife or a dremel.
Something like this, you'll have to stack slices and glue them together, but you can make really nice props with it:
I have something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082X53VDL/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=dcb2d1119dcd68028e41fa73644a2520&hsa_cr_id=3943868690501&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=42bfbb9c-f996-4873-9dc8-5a000ae8ff07&pd_rd_w=9uN4j&pd_rd_wg=psRxe&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_lsi4d_asin_0_img for my Mando and Tusken Raider helmet to power fans.
I’ve been looking around for window film myself, and I’ve found something relatively cheap on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZKPDVYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9AQNNG96082YSJ16WYH0?psc=1 I think they might care window film in hardware shops like ace’s, Menards, lowes and the Home Depot.
It’s a nice shop, I know the owner, she’s very good about making sure the product matches up with customer demands, real fair about her prices, especially on custom stuff.
I’ve used this with some success Moldable Cosplay Foam Clay (Black) – High Density and Hiqh Quality for Intricate Designs | Air Dries to Perfection for Cutting with a Knife or Rotary Tool, Sanding or Shaping https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082NNL9RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J25VK6ZHDA3596E21D6S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You could see if this fits as is or modify the attachment to the frame:
MEILAN X5 Smart Bike Tail Light with Turn Signals and Automatic Brake Light Wireless Remote Control Bike Rear Light Back USB Rechargeable Safety Warning Cycling Light Fits on Any Road Bicycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PYDN5V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YTC1TNTD1TRD4SZXPF1D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you're looking for an accessible and affordable gap filler, kwik seal works really nice.
https://www.amazon.com/18001-Kwik-Caulk-5-5-Ounce-White/dp/B00062W6MM
You can get it pretty much anywhere. Just don't grab a tube that's siliconized
Its fine. Just gotta give us something to work off of (for future reference). Anyway, I'm pretty sure you want WS2812B addressable LED panels. You can wire a small Arduino board to them. There are a lot of options for that, I like the Nanos personally but the Trinkets are pretty good too. If you aren't up for the panels, you can get strips and just layer them also. Either way setting up addressable LEDs to a controller seems a little daunting but learning curve isn't that steep after the first couple attempts. And there are no shortage of free and open code blocks (sketches in the arduino world) that can help you figure out how to animate your stuff.
LED Panel - Ran a few tests on it, seems to work reasonably well
Arduino Tutorial
>A steel pipe may also not be con-friendly and jeez the cost and weight!
Tell me how many foamcast swords you've seen people carry around at literally every con ever. You know, like these kind of things:
Because ALL of these foamcast swords have a steel rod in them for support. 100% allowed, and super light. The complete opposite of what you said. You seem to think that the only steel pipe on the planet is some super thick and heavy thing. That's not the case. You can literally by steel pipe at 14thinch thick that weighs less than a pound for like $5 at any hardware store.
Also you mentioned how PVC stays stiff great in insulation foam. The only kind of foam OP ISN'T using., but also filling it..you mean..making it heavier? So doing that is somehow better than a pipe that's less weight but also WAY stronger? Makes total sense. Sure. Though I guess putting a dowel in there would also do the trick. But then..now you have to not only spend more than the cost of the steel pipe in order to get the same result, but it's not THICKER too. Genius.
I suspect that an unsupported cloth mask with any kind of weight on it will be problematic... I'd recommend a frame of Worbla. However, I only suggest Worbla because I don't know if what I'm about to suggest would be strong enough using EVA. EVA might be worth a try, though.
Basically, I'm envisioning a frame like this that's shaped to fit your cosplay. Along the outside edge of the frame, you could strategically place pegs. The fabric would be stretched over the frame with holes cut out to fit over the pegs. The tubing would then be attached to the pegs, helping to secure the fabric. Alternatively, instead of pegs, you could fill the ends of your tubing with something solid and screw them in through the back of the frame...
You could buy something like this flexible aluminum electrical conduit tubing at a hardware store or online. Looks pretty close too. Just use a narrower pvc pipe to fit inside it to attach it.
Copied from my other post...
All the techniques I used to make this, I learned from my favor maker Adam Savage from Mythbusters and the Tested YouTube channel. This is my first prop cosplay replica and I owe it all to Adam! If you're reading this, thank you so much for everything you do!
Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00160BK2A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_GDJXHM1GDWBZ13YEY76G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This should help. GOCHANGE 3 in 1 Foam Cutter Electric Cutting Machine Pen Tools Kit, 100-240V /18W Styrofoam Cutting Pen with Electronic Voltage Transformer Adaptor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H28SCC9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1TG4ESX1TKJQ605PEFME?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought two of the fancy utility blade Adam Savage uses: NT Cutter Aluminum Die-Cast Grip Multi-Blade Cartridge Knife (A-1000RP)
I also picked up the extra sharp version of the blade refills, which appear to have a slimmer edge bevel: NT Cutter 9mm Snap-Off Blades, 50-Blade/Pack, 1 Pack (BA-50P)
I'm sure I've seen him use a band saw for faster straight cuts, but don't know how well that works for curves.
i sharpen my blades with this and then for those little corner cuts I use an exacto blade like this (youll need a special thicker handle not the usual type an exacto knife has)
​
id sharpen your blade religiously every few cuts! it makes a world of a difference. Though sharpening the exacto blades kinda doesnt work.
Not knowing how physical you're getting with the prop... I'd recommend scrapbooking embellishments like these. They're self adhesive, but be ready to use tweezers and have a lot of patience.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LD714VX/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_G4Q9XVYM7472NCY6FPK0
If you want it to fit your head, there will be seams. Some of the better made zentai hoods will minimize them on the front of your face. This one that will give you an idea of what I mean.
Yep. I started a business around this model. Works great.
Large prints are impressive but risky. I agree that multiple part builds are the way to go. You don't want a 30 hour print to fail cause of a brown out or filament jam.
Like for Link, if you wanted to print out the Master Sword I found a few on thingiverse. I have heard you can use some software (Meshlab maybe) to chop up 3d models into smaller parts, then print each part and combine them all later.
Last night I tried some XTC 3D, some epoxy mix that Smoothon makes for smoothing out 3d prints. I let it set up overnight and think it's going to work. Might need two thin layers instead of one thick one but the parts feel smooth. For a first try it's looking good.
I used to use bondo/body filler to smooth out my 3D printed parts for costumes and moldmaking. If this epoxy stuff works it'll save me over 80% time wise. Brush it on during the 10 min window, set it down, let it harden over 4 hours, sand it down if needed and prime/paint. Done.
I used to make cosplay parts out of styrofoam, clay, or wood. 3D printing saves me weeks of time.
What kind of printer are you building? I've built two Rostock max printers for cosplay making.
Thank you for the tips! I think the e file I have will work. It has 30000 rpm and I can use the same tips that works for the dremel. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P7Z1JF1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BR3GPVQHY2B6VCMHZRF2
I tried it out yesterday and it eats through the foam pretty quick.
Cut mirrored vinyl/polyester stuck to maybe EVA or otherwise some sort of sleeve.
You can order on amazon... but a local sign shop would likely sell to you cheaper... and they'd probably not charge much to precut the shapes.
Posable hand model If you have skills with resin then I'd suggest disassembling it and remaking the blue digits out of resin, but you can squeak by with a paint job.
A nail salon dust collector is designed for this. It's a tabletop dust removal for sanding without taking up much space..
Ah, I recommend the same TP4056 boards. They have built in indicator lights and I use them for anything rechargeable. However they only output at 1A so they're not fast, but they are largely reliable. And they're less than a buck each if something goes sideways. Also don't bother with the battery in ports, they're weak as hell. I run the power cells to a junction point that splits three ways, one way to the cells obviously, the other to the recharge board, and then the last one to the thing actually being powered. This has the added benefit of allowing the item to be powered directly from the USB charger if you so choose.
There's kits on Amazon! I went for a cheap one to test it out but of it works ill get a better ecosystem kit
Bioluminescent Dinoflagellates, Living https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMGT19/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_H9GRK28NEFKD3EHCFSCT
If you have no sewing skills but have the base garment, you could use fusible bias tape. This should work straight lines and slow curves, bummer part is that it may not last over multiple washing.
Disclaimer: amateur hobbyist who's never used bondo and such so far! So I don't know all the options but here's one that I've liked so far on a foam/papermache prop!
I've used Polyurethane Minwax waterproof wood stain before as a sort of clear coat but it seems much stronger than paint alone. Finished really smooth for me.
It's meant for wood but I used it over spraypainted plaster and papermache paint! Mine was an actual stain so it changed my paint colour a bit but i believe clear exists too. I'm not good at comparisons and have only used a few things so far but it's my favourite to add durability by far (over spraypaint clear or gloss coats, mod podge, and glue mixtures)
It's a few bucks for a small can but the oil based stuff doesn't wash out with water so be prepared with mineral spirits or just to toss everything you get dirty for cleanup!
I've rested my prop on asphalt at cons and without Minwax coat the paint and plaster structure under crumbled but with minwax it's seemed to stand up to rough surfaces so far but I was also more careful after fixing it!
Edit: this was my application of it, no guarantees it's the best option for you but there it is :) http://aminoapps.com/p/gwvfb
This is correct, OP. Please do not listen to commenter below.
Temporary Tooth Repair Kit-Thermal Beads for Filling Fix the Missing and Broken Tooth or Adhesive the Denture Fake Teeth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZRDZJH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_DYM8GT6YYS3GM7YYKWCP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I suspect at the very least cons will require an orange tip or a barrel condom while you're moving around the con.
Gorgeous work!
That's a very nice hat..
If it is within your budget, I'd get the photo printed, glue it to poster board from the dollar store, then attach it to the innards of a face shield with an pivot so you can angle the damn thing out of your face while you consume beverages. You can probably reuse the face shield itself for some other halloween.
If you're ok with it being a touch oblong, you could buy 4 giant easter eggs and put two bottom halves together for each.
Just buy a yellow and a grey pair of these and swap out the lenses. $20 all in.
Think you could throw one of those remote control light things inside a clear beach ball?
I guess the challenge would be cutting open the ball, installing the lights, and then somehow re-sealing the cut part so it will still hold air.
Fair enough.
Well, fine wire mesh or filter screens can be relatively easily bent into a head sized bowl shape.
Spray paint black, and on the inside have black sheer cloth to make the face not visible but you can see out. Paint the symbol ahead of adding the cloth.
Outside of that, the edges should be wrapped to not poke things, and even could be reinforced with a metal coat hanger bent into an oval shape.
Add some elastic and off you go.
ex: https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Security-Screen-Cabinets-30X30cm/dp/B07RQ2T3YR
You can use https://www.amazon.ca/ThreeBulls-Cooler-Filter-Dustproof-Computer/dp/B01N950ZB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ThreeBulls+12+Pcs+140mm+PVC+Black+PC+Cooler+Fan+Dust+Filter+Dustproof+Case+Cover+Computer+Mesh&qid=1633050898&sr=8-3. I used them for helmet visors they look black but you can see through them. They shape easy as well.
That's beautiful! Amazing job :) Our half inch round black acrylic gems might look good on the top of the mask! Not sure tho...Double checking the size is recommended.
13mm Round Black Acrylic Gems: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TLY52QP?ref=myi\_title\_dp
I am using this device in a current build at works pretty well. Super simple to use.
You can select either a button activation or a light sensor but the sound output is descent enough for a simple halloween costume. You would just have to find an MP3 file to load onto it, which shouldn't be hard.
Just had a spark of inspiration. I remembered my electric unicycle had some foam on it that was PERFECT. This is the stuff!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CQT344B/ref=oh\_aui\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
HFSKJWI Monk Hood Cowl Hat Medieval Friar Cowl Hat Pagan Cape Halloween Costumes Hooded Poncho with Necklace Unisex Costume Party Accessory Props,Purple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BR2F7ND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KY15CEXWCXTN1G9KA55V
SteamPunk Chain Spike Vintage Cosplay Masuqes Gas Mask Respirator M2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TXJT2T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Z2GP52EQA61TGRTSHZJD
If you scroll to the first review of 2020 you can see how the filters work!
Would either of these work for you application?
Aluan Fairy Lights 100 LED 33 FT Christmas Lights USB Plug in String Lights, 16 Colors Changing Silver Wire Firefly Lights with Remote Control for Indoor Party Halloween Christmas - 16 Vibrant Colors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XXV2Q34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_67EJ3FGNP8QCFCNXY577?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
16 Colors String Lights Battery Operated & USB Powered, 16.4ft 50 LED Fairy Lights with Remote Timer Waterproof Silver Wire Twinkle Lights for Room Garden Patio Party Indoor Outdoor Decor(132 Modes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXS1G1B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WKQHZEP0CBMDZQD7SVQD
There are a couple cheap Optimus prime mask that have this effect that you could salvage.
$40.00 on amazon here.
This question is probably better served over on r/cosplayhelp. However I have previously used Funtasma Men's Black boots, which are...fine. I wear a men's 16 and this only goes up to 14 so they pinched and wore out quickly but if you're a normal size they should do you fine.
I use a boxer cutter with interchangeable utility blades. I find the sturdiness works for me. Here's a link to one similar to mine. I bought it forever ago and can't find mine on the web.
I have this sharpener from Amazon which is awesome to keep the blades sharp. As long as you keep it sharp it's rare to swap them out unless the blade gets a chip. I'm still using the 10pk blades it came with over 5 years ago.
Worbla is going to cause you so many problems. You'd be much better off using a crinoline with shapeable wire supporting it, and heavily starched for rigidity. Or at the very least, fosshape in lieu of a crinoline with wire. It can be sewn as well being heat activated.
Dang that's sexy! If you're looking for some nice chrome paint I use this stuff here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MR2KER3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_VFOZFbNM2JM8T It's the nicest chrome paint I've ever used.
They look like this
I got mine at home depot for 2.50 each. They have a magnet inside the metal so one side is magnetic but the other isn't. I'm gluing one inside a button cover for the shoulder clasps for my cape. The 2 clasps should hold the cape on by themselves actually.
Here's an amazon link
Perfect, thanks for your advice! I think what I'll try is get some cheap curved lenses from something like eye protection glasses. Take one way film and put over them. Then cut to size. I found what I think will work well on amazon, link below. Let me know what you think!
Coavas Window Film Non Adhesive Frosted Home Office Film Privacy Window Sticker Self Static Cling Vinly Glass Film for Bathroom Office Meeting Room Living Room (Matte White 17.7by78.7 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XHXU7PU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-vtDCbKJGRW2N
It’s called tint it!! Here ya go. It dried really fast and is definitely buildable from sheer to opaque. I bought mine at Michaels for ~$10 so see if you can find it cheaper there instead amazon
I can help with a couple things. Fans; Yes get a pc fan or go to amazon and look for "20mm fan" "40mm fan" 50, 60 etc and you can find one easy. They are likely going to be 12v fans so get a 12v gel cell battery like this one https://www.amazon.ca/Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-BE550R-Battery/dp/B00G5EZV5E/ref=sr_1_8?crid=XL97J5XD3A10&keywords=12v+battery&qid=1552685303&s=gateway&sprefix=12v+batt%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-8
Next is to get a wood grain, use EVA (floor mat foam) and google 'groot eva" there are a ton of tutorials out there on how they did the groot skin look usually using a wood burner.
Stone look: Again google "stone eva" you would be amazed at what others are doing.
I would second the comments on using a pre-existing stroller. The keyword you want to use when searching is "baby pram". That's going to give you the shape you want as opposed to a more modern baby stroller look. Here's one from Amazon that would fit your look. If that's too expensive, maybe try Craigslist or an estate sale? Worst case scenario, you could always strap a baby seat to a rolling cart/table and hope for the best?
Okeydoke! Here's the ones I bought. They have a bunch of different colour choices (vitally important when one is sewing/worbla-forming!)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJ2X65P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I went to Amazon and searched for "silicone" in my order history to find that link for ya. Boy howdy, I've bought a lot of silicone crafty items over the years! If you don't already have something like these, you might dig them as well. I use these as a gluing workspace, but I would imagine they might be nice to "worbla" on as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DZVRJBZ/ref=dp_cerb_3
If you can get by with something like this or even this, which you could paint that will be cheaper for you.
Otherwise you're paying someone to sculpt it, then mold and cast it in resin if you want it to be hard. Be so much more expensive
Something like this? They take paint well and are quite sturdy.
It looks like a slide clasp that’s usually used in bras?
Not OP, but stuff like this is what people generally use Tinted face shield amazon link
It might be easiest to create the base using a sheet of 2mm foam. Cut foam rolls in half and adhere them the the base, shaping as needed. If you have access to worbla, cover the entire top of it with it. If you don’t have worbla, use more 2mm foam and a heat gun to shape it. These aren’t clear instructions but I hope it helps!
https://www.amazon.com/Quabaug-Corp-Barge-Cement-Thinner/dp/B0015TIGOC
they sell thinners. I'm sure you can look up the generic chemical if you want to save a few bucks. Also, Barge cement is listed as having a 1 year shelf life. There are many tips out there to increasing the shelf life, such as transferring it to air tight plastic bottles that you use up and throw out. Personally I just buy what I think I'll need for the year and chuck out the unworkable stuff.
idye poly or Rit dye works for most plastics. Never seen it used on an open cell foam before, but can't imagine why it wouldn't work.
https://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-IDYE-457-iDye-Grams-Crimson/dp/B00C1JVYVC
https://www.amazon.com/Rit-DyeMore-Advanced-Polyester-Acrylic/dp/B00U2IXMIW
You can mix them for more specific colors too.
You'll probably want to soak it in like you would water in a sponge, then squeeze it out. Test on a small piece first. Also it's a pretty messy process that involves heating up a bit pot of the stuff, so you'll probably want to do it outside if you have a portable burner.
Those can work, just gotta add something to the ball to diffuse them then. I'd recommend packing foam or Organza. If you cut one of the wires (I usually use the negative lead but it doesn't really matter) you can solder in an easier to activate latching button switch, at which point you can place the on/off anywhere on the staff. The only limit is the length of the connecting wire. These are my go to: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FR5RDL7 . Easy in, easy out.
I know this seems obvious but isn't always; make sure you're using a damn sharp knife/razor. I switch my blades at the start of each new prop. I also have a knife that I can make pretty long. Not necessarily this one, but something like this.
Liquitex makes a great starter pack that will allow you to experiment on your first small projects. Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint Tube 48-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00251I66C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Dvw.Bb1B64GMK
I always try to have matte black, matte white, clear matte and clear gloss rattle cans on hand as well.
idk what he's talking about, but it's called quilted. those diamonds are stitching in the fabric to attach two or more layers of fabric. like if you wanted a strong canvas outer layer, with a cotton layer for cushion, and a nice cool and comfortable satin layer on the bottom.
this is a lot lighter than that if you look at the picture in the reviews, but dyeing is super easy and pretty cheap. you can probably find dark grey pre-quilted fabric if you don't have a sewing machine
I've used sword mounts pretty effectively for smaller stuff like what you're talking about. Usually your standard wood rack but in days past I used stuff like this, which is adjustable. There is a spring in the main support cylinder so you can use it for a lot of things. For larger items I've found bicycle hooks pretty handy, got those holding up one of my Dragonslayers.
If you're not looking to build your own hat, you could look at Smiffy's Wandering Gunman hat.
I've used that hat for costumes before, and I have a 61cm / 24" (ish) noggin. It's probably going to be a little tight, but the interior of the hat has an elastic band all the way around that I thought made it more comfortable to wear.
> How did you attach the straps to the arms and legs pieces?
I used Nylon 3/4" Straps Hot glued with Contoured plastic buckles
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QVVZM4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003R2BDY0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are great if you are just wearing it for show.. However they are a bit problematic when there is stage combat as the hot glue has come undone twice and had to be reglued.. Still trying to figure out if I just need more glue or what lol