It looks like a very inexpensive Chinese-made guitar that was sold under a few brands like Carlo Robelli and GL
It's worth about $75 in excellent condition.
My find of the century was finding a 2008 Epiphone Les Paul Special II in fully working order (but doused in beer with a hole in the control cavity between the pickup selector and volume knob) in a dumpster while moving my girlfriend (now wife) in with me.
Still have the guitar
BEFORE - http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/profile_mojo_data/8/4/1/8/841891/pics/_c1020859_image_0.jpg
JUST A SHORT TIME AGO - https://photos.google.com/b/118164308326286316785/photo/AF1QipMPHAaB3MMfzCf_RR_d8OXn5yJVqyPehBEFzTJy
There's a lot of this on the app. It usually gets pulled within a day or two, but I now run image searches on any deal I find (or check Reverb really quick). Sometime I'll ask for more photos just in case their other listings seem sus
edit: like this account
In standard tuning, ebgdaE, or Every Bad Goat Dates An Escort the strings are tuned a perfect fifth apart from one another, except between the b and the e, that is a fourth. When people say they have dropped down to D, all they have actually done is lowered the low E by a whole note.
Your tuning should have each string lowered by a whole note, except your low E which has been lowered by two whole notes. Because the E is now a C, begin tuning with the high E first, as the lower notes won't register correctly on the mic in your tuner.
Congratulations on learning guitar, but be warned of bad tabs. Learning bad habits takes forever to unlearn. I'm seeing some bad info in the tab you posted. The chord symbols above the tab should all also be lowered a whole step. The ones listed will just confuse you later.
This is a far better source for tabs, as you can play it back in midi format and get a correct idea of what your end product should resemble.
CTS pots are the go-to for a lot of people for, among other things, coil splitting. And an FYI, if you’re using single coils, the general rule if thumb is use 250k pots and humbuckers use 500k.
If anybody is curious, this is a kit guitar. I finished it last year and just recently took the time to learn how to properly tune it. My local shop said they couldn't do it properly, which I think is a load of crap and don't think they got around to trying. Or they honestly didn't know how. I bought some very cheap tools on amazon and got it tuned almost perfectly in about an hour. This included a new nut, intonation, truss rod adjustment, and radius of the strings. The parts are very cheap, so I wasn't able to get it perfect, but it's much more playable now than before and doesn't sound half bad. [This is the kit I bought]( https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Guitar-Thinline-Style-Build/dp/B01GIE349A/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=kit+guitar+fretwire&qid=1558640097&s=gateway&sr=8-4-spell ) I painted it with a rattle can of seafoam green fender paint and clear coated it. This was my first kit guitar and am pleased with how it turned out. It's not perfect but I'm going to give it another go this year more than likely with another kit.
Those prices are the cheapest you can get ‘em for, not what they cost the OEM to make. Also, I constantly see humbucker sets for 15 bucks or less shipped on eBay and Amazon.
Matter of fact, here’s two humbuckers on Amazon with free Prime shipping for $12.44. They’re not selling ‘em at a loss — they cost pennies to manufacture with the economy of scale these giant factories enjoy, and shipping/tax is absurdly cheap from China to the US — has been for many years.
Here is the part you need. This also includes a jack that you don't need, but I couldn't find the plate by itself on Amazon (I actually did find a couple, but they were more expensive than this set).
I'd recommend this guitar ( https://www.amazon.com/C-1-Schecter-Beginner-Electric-Guitar/dp/B005WPU8ZA?keywords=schecter&qid=1537242727&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3 ) it's a great brand and a good budget guitar. As for leaning how to play I'd recomand picking up rocksmith 2014 edition, its available on steam,xbox one, and ps4. You can get it for $20-$30 and the cable for around $30. I'd recomand the pc version since it's much easier to download custom songs and so on. It's great for beginners, teaching you the basics and has a few dozen songs with the game and literally hundreds of songs you can get and learn to play.
Try to avoid an offset without a flat bottom. They have an annoying habit of sitting weird in guitar stands and threatening to tip over. Also I would go for the straight headstock, a la Fender, as opposed to the bent style of Gibson, as this is a weak point that is easily broken.
That being said, pick up The Ultimate Guitar Book by Tony Bacon and flip through the pages. The book is $2 from Barnes and noble.
Craigslist and FB Marketplace. Or you can get this Telecaster knockoff for $100. Remove the headstock decal and put your wedding sign or date on it.
Yeah, that’s what I thought. That’s not what’s meant to be in that hole. You’re looking for an end pin. It’s sort of like the bridge pins only it’s larger and more tapered. You just pop it in and the taper of it keeps it in. Google end pin and you’ll see. That’s all you need.
Please don’t listen to people who tell you to dowel and glue your brand-new guitar. That’s foolish.
Electric guitars and basses require amplifiers.
If you want to play it, you will need something like this
Amazon. Actually found one for dirt cheap that is three ply and shielded. It’s not Fender brand, but I compared it with the original and it is pretty similar.
Try a fibreglass cleaning 'pencil'
I have two bowls full of equal parts yellows and greens. One upstairs and one downstairs. I always have a pick now and it's fantastic. I just bought like four of these.
That was 3+ years ago.
It's a ebow
I have that exact same wall rack, with different guitars of course... I am really digging on both those Teles! Nice collection!
Nice, I keep seeing one just like this, I think, someone's trying to sell for $795. I noticed it because I have a strat in the same color and couldn't help notice how much more I like the tele. Here it is: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/486285838924749/
Edit: no, I guess it's different. Close, though.
You can find a LOT of info on who made what in Japan here
On good build quality, I own a few guitars made in Japan that represents good quality from Japan...
Japanese Fender - Jazzmaster, Jag-Stang, Jaguar, and in Japan, you can get variants not at all available in the USA without exporting (like 70's reissue Mustangs, oddball sig models, and whatnot). Also, Fender USA made an exclusive run of Mustangs known as "Mustang (19)84" when Char B became popular in the late 70's/early 80's extending the Mustang's production run into almost the mid 80's due to their popularity in Japan.
I know Kramer had one Focus model, it has a neck position single coil, and a bridge position Humbucker - sort of a Focus 1005 or something like that. It was only available in Japan, and was produced sometime around the mid-late 80's. I think there were other Japan exclusive Kramers as well.
Tokai was a popular choice in the early 80's as at that time they were out-Fendering Fender. They also made some early 80's Hondo guitars, I have reason to believe this is one of the possible plants my rare Hondo Paul Dean II came from. Tokai also manufactured Vester as well, whom mostly made Jackson style superstrats.
Matsamoku made guitars for Westone and Electra, as well as possibly some other brands including their own. Higher end early 80's Yamaha guitars came from there if I recall. They also made the old Univox guitars (Hi-Flier Mosrite Copies et-al Cobain, Lucy Dan Armstrong Copies), and some other brands as well.
Guyatone made a lot of weird old stuff under many Japanese labels - the classic Japanese style of guitar making int he 60's was close to that style. Generally these guitars might be lower quality, but they also tend to have interesting pickups and hardware and could net some Japanese local exclusives.
If it's popping at the saddle, you could get a new saddle and shave it to size. I do a lot of saddle/nut replacements and occasionally you'll have a guitar that doesn't quite fit, so I just shave it to size.
But my guess, like ScottThePoolBoy's, is that it has developed a sharp edge on it, so you might want to take a look and see if it has an edge, if so, take a small file, almost like nail file within a pair of nail clippers and round it off. If worst comes to worst, a new saddle is no more than $5.
And to answer your question, a compensated saddle is a way to kind of "fine tune" the intonation, and looks like this. Where as, a regular, non-compensated saddle would look like this.
Long explanation short, compensated saddles have little "notches" filed into them.
This is pretty wild but after responding to this post I was on FB marketplace and there’s a guy not too far from me who is selling this exact strap.. I’ll see if I can get ahold of it for ya. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2546254369033264/
that nut looks like it's about to pop off.
i really couldn't tell from the photos if your action is even that high. buy a string action gauge. it's a good investment and you will use it forever. i got mine from amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/MusicNomad-Precision-Action-Height-Metric-MN602/dp/B08M45Y4VZ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=10CE1442UNNWA&dchild=1&keywords=string+action+gauge&qid=1632083021&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=string+acti%2Cmi%2C215&sr=1-7
yours is probably a set neck? there's really nothing you can do besides the stuff that you've already done. your bridge posts are already all the way down. adjusting the truss rod and shaving the nut might help. but i would still advise getting a string action gauge first before doing anything drastic.
The only issue with those is you may need to drill new holes to install them. I would personally go for Hipshot locking tuners. You can pick up a set for around $60 on Amazon and they don't require new holes to be drilled. You aren't going to go wrong with either option.
Get what you can afford now. You can always add a pickup later
What amp are you using now? Most small solid state practice amplifiers have both a headphone out jack and aux input for playing along to a backing track. Even a small headphone amp like this would work for that.
What's the difference between Nickel Wound strings?
grab the part sticking out with some pliers and give it a tug. Make sure you pull straight back on it, you don't want to go at an angle or wiggle too much.
If you do manage to break it or the plug won't come out, its a fairly cheap part and is easy to swap if you can solder.
A fixed bridge might be easier for a newbie but between the two of those just buy the one you think looks better if you can't try them both. Or buy them (or ones like them) from Amazon and return the one you don't like. If you can't decide, I prefer HH as I tend to play between them and hit the middle pickup in a HSH/SSS/HSS configuration.
I would not worry about a foot switch until you are good enough to need to change tones mid-song. 10w is fine..
Get a variety pack and try them all. I've stuck with .73mm after experimenting with different sizes and ended up with a textured set after much experimentation.
People tend to prefer thinner ones for strumming, medium for rhythm and thick for solo (the "attack" changes with thickness), I just grip closer or farther from the tip to change attack.
Guitar, amp, strap, cable, picks, guitar stand/hanger, gig bag, tuner (or just use Guitar Tuna or another free app)
Not a guitar with huge dollar value--but a nice guitar to play--so I'd recommend being frugal in replacing the tuning-machines. You might check-out the budget tuners in the link below:
Searching "Guitar Tuning Machines, Budget" will get you similar results. Just make sure you choose a set that has 3 Left and 3 Right, and check the dimensions to see if they match the holes on your headstock.
FWIW, I really really like the pickguard and cream colors. Great color scheme. And that hint of green in the wood? Sooo sexy.
Just heavy, solid chrome machine heads. Maybe get a custom vinyl decal cut for the headstock.
I mean I honestly feel kind of foolish making recommendations based on my own preferences. Basically just ignore me. :)
Beautiful rig man. Just gorgeous.
It really is a great book. My instructor about 10 years ago had me special order this to learn scales and modes. If you want another book that compliments this book I would suggest "Artful Arpeggios." Here is an amazon link if you're interested.
I use these boards from Amazon
I bought on a whim after spending loads on different boards. For the price its competing with a lot higher priced boards and it's a tough mother Haha, thrown it around dropped it several times still solid.
Amazon begs to differ.
Truth be told I played it for many many years with a rather crappy set up. I finally found a local guy who literally transformed it into a freaking dream to play.
Also, check this stuff out. My LP has never looked as nice or felt so smooth to play.
Gerlitz SMUDGEOFF Smudge Off Spray Cleaner
That’s why I said it depends a lot on the amp and the UPS. He could get one that could run a small amp for quite a while but he’s going to pay for it.
Something like this should run a little amp for an hour or more. But for the same price or less he could get a little battery powered amp. And not have to carry a 20lbs UPS around.
On the ridicules end I have one that will run an entire server rack (6 servers, 2 NAS, 1 L3 Switch, 1 security appliance) for about 30 minutes. I assume it’ll run a small amp for as long as he can play. It also costs several thousand dollars and weighs a shitton.
Probably not a great solution.
This will make a very good beginner guitar. Either check out some You Tube videos and learn how to set up the guitar, or spend about $50 and have it professionally set up at a music store. It can make a big difference in playability and sound.
A standard guitar cable should work fine, but get one with a straight connector at both ends. Some connectors bend at a 90 d angle, you don't want that for this guitar.
The Boss Katana is a favorite amp around here. That would be fine, or something like this Peavy would work fine too. I wouldn't go smaller than 10 watts.
Squier Bullet Stratocaster HSS HT. Same as the guitar in OP, but without a tremolo bridge. Tremolos make tuning and staying in tune a bigger hassle than it needs to be. You have much to learn before a tremolo is of any use, anyway.
EDIT: Amazon has them as well, here
The Tone Room software is a must:
Apple App Store
A partscaster. I know a lot of people here said that this isn't worth $249. I almost did as well unless I saw the headstock and that finish which shows that this is probably a Squier Classic Vibe 70's Stratocaster and it retails for $459 brand new as you can see here! And as he said, he upgraded it with Alnico V pickups and its this exact item right here. And as you can see, it came with a pickguard which explains why that guitar have a different pickguard compared to the Classic Vibe Strat on the Fender website. I'd say It's quite a steal!
I put this one in a few of my guitars. It’s different in that it has 2 tabs so it kinda holds the cable a little more sturdily.
Pure Tone Full-contact Output... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N94UUD0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Any electric guitar strings will work, but many players have strong feelings about the type of strings they use. The biggest thing is going to be string gauge, or how thick they are. Most electric players I know use 9s or 10s from Ernie Ball or D’Addario, which refer to the thickness of the thinnest string. There are a lot of different gauge options, but those are the most common. Probably the next biggest thing after gauge and brand is whether the string is coated or not; coated strings are more expensive and feel different but last longer. Whether coated strings are your thing is entirely personal preference.
I use these D’Addario XL 10s, personally.
I've had this problem. I found I needed to grip the pick harder for some passages but I also use these pick gripper things. They work alright to prevent rotation though I sometimes still have to grip a little harder to keep the pick in optimal positioning. I only have a couple of years seriously playing with a pick and I think the problem is improving but I haven't gone back to regular picks yet.
I got a little amp and some spare KEF egg speakers. Connected to my phone with bluetooth for backing tracks. This kind of thing:
Hi, my name is John Chau. I am a surgical neurophysiologist who published a book called Neuro Alchemy detailing all of the science and stories behind new neurostimulation and neuroplasticity promoting modalities that are shown by science to help heal the brain and improve functioning. I hope you can all enjoy this read and find it stimulating! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CWD65TV
I have a Matsumoku Vantage that I prefer to any ES-335 I have played. Simply great guitars. Do you have a picture of the next/headstalk?
The entire assembly is called a tuning-machine, or machine head (I don't like using the word "tuner" because it can be mixed-up with the electronic device used to tune the guitar.
The part that string gets wrapped around is called the "post" or the "capstan". the post/capstan when it is not on the guitar has a bit of play in the mechanism, so it doesn't stand straight-up, but can wriggle a few degrees from the center axis.
The metal ring around the post is called the bushing, and it is pushed into the hole in the headstock with a friction-fit (it is not glued, and in the case of your type of tuning-machines, it is not threaded into the metal case of the tuning-machine). On the page linked below you can see the bushings are separate from the rest of the tuning-machine:
So if the tuner-machine post bushing isn't fit, and seated well in the headstock hole, it can sit at an angle, and that causes the somewhat wriggly post/capstan to be at an angle that is less that a perfect right-angle to the headstock face.
The next time you have that string off, you might want to pull off the bushing, and make sure that area that it seats to is clear of any material that would keep it from seating completely. Once it is seated correctly, the post/capstan should be at the correct angle.
It's not really something to worry about, and should function fine, as-is.
This has a humbucker so the mustang might work for you. The guitar has no amp built in so you're not going to be able to just put headphones and I don't know what happened at the GC that let you do that. I have the "acoustic" model and you need a little amp with it. I actually bought one of those tiny practice amps that I take with me. Fender makes a cute one that looks like tweed. https://www.amazon.com/Fender-Mini-57-Twin-Amp-Electric/dp/B000B2Q2MC/ref=asc_df_B000B2Q2MC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=257927876538&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13636798497238089696&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004356&hvtargid=pla-441600655429&psc=1
Toxic shame is some shit. Sorry someone taught you to feel that way about yourself.
The book is great, just have to ignore all the religious bullshit (like half the book annoyingly).
You can use any headphones, most recommend regular headphones over earbuds. But to the main part, you need an adapter or plugin in order for this to function with headphones. I personally use this Vox Plugin and I highly recommend it.
You can get a mini amp that headphones plug into.
I can't guarantee it will sound good but it'll work.
I have two. I love em.
OP - Buy these two products to make your Floyd life easier:
As others have stated, you'll need some sort of amp.
If you're only looking to drive headphones, this is a good option.
I've used this for years.
This one yeah? :
Or would this suffice? (bit cheaper but don't mind paying for the above if I need to):
Ask him what pedal he would like.
I'd get him a
Music Nomad String Winder
It's a good idea to get a humidifier in your guitar room, especially if you have the heat on. Cold air tends to be drier and if you run the heat, the air will dry out even more. Dry air leads to dry wood which can eventually lead to cracks or other damage. If you can, get an adequately large humidifier and a way to measure humidity. In the room with my guitars, I keep the humidity above 40% during the winter.
Your local home improvement place will probably have what you need. If you're feeling lazy, humidifier here monitor here
I put something like this under the volume knob and never had the problem again.
The only downside is you can't do pinky swells as easily as before.
Look for headphones and a Bluetooth transmitter that support a low latency codec like aptX. Make sure it’s an actual legit codec and not just a “low latency” marketing claim a manufacturer makes. There is a difference.
Here’s my setup…
I run the transmitter out of my Spark amp’s headphone jack, and connect my headphones to that. I’ve also done the same out of my Katana.
Looks like one of these Eart GW2 guitars or a real similar model. New they’re like $370 USD, used would be around like $250-$300 depending condition.
Without knowing what you want from it, what your restoration budget is, and your skill level is in working on this sort of thing, it's pretty much impossible to answer.
Is this all you have to work with, or is there a bag of parts laying around, off-camera?
Buying used/cheap parts, it might take me $100 to get that guitar up and running from the condition as pictured. And then I'd have a guitar worth maybe $150. On the up-side, the frets look in good shape for a guitar that's almost years old, and I do like the crakle finish.
The least expensive why to have it as a minimally functioning guitar is to replace the tuning-machines (although the guitar seems to be missing only one, those tuners are the not great, so replacing them all with even budget modern tuners will be an improvement), and put a single humbucking pickup in the bridge position, making it a single pickup guitar--just like Eddie Van Halen did.
These are examples, and I have no personal experience with these parts:
Get yourself a nice straight precision ruler that can measure down to 64ths of an inch. I use this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Mitutoyo-182-105-Chrome-Tempered-Stainless/dp/B00027958O . It's super flat and great for rocking on the frets to find high spots. In my experience any of the measurement tools that are advertised for guitar specific use are not precise enough and never truly flat. In the guitar repair shop I work in most of our tools come from the world of gunsmithing.
USB. You can see the USB symbol on the left there. It's the one with one end normal and the other bigger. Like the USB cables used to plug in printers.
I may be misunderstanding the question, but I don't think you need a set of 7 string strings. The first six strings are going to be the same as a 6-string set, with the addition of a higher 7th.
I use these on my metal rig and they sound great especially with drop tunings: https://www.amazon.com/Ernie-Ball-Skinny-Bottom-Nickel/dp/B0002PBS68
For sure, something like this.
I’ve played many outdoor winter gigs in freezing weather. The only thing I’ve found that works is layered clothing and multiple single-use heat packs in both coat pockets. When I’m not playing, my hands are wedged in between those hand warmers; when I’m playing, I go without gloves and take the cold for the 3-8 minutes per song.
Granted, my situation only had five or six songs per set with lots of breaks between numbers (think of an outdoor celebration for a church running multiple Christmas Eve services). But the hand warmers did the job and got me through some ferociously cold weather.
Be aware there are two main types of acoustic guitars. Classical and steel string. Classical is sort of a specialty instrument. It uses nylon strings and is optimized for classical music. A steel string guitar uses metal strings and is a more general instrument for rock, pop, blues, country etc.
Squier SA-150. There are other ways to tune a guitar, but clip on tuners are handy, effective and cheap.
get a 1/64 ruler
or an action gauge
because you want accurate measurements
I usually measure at the 17th fret, but whatever works for you - but if you are comparing with others make sure you note which fret the measurement is at.
I know you are just starting but I think your band would greatly benefit from getting one of these bad boys.
I think every guitar play should learn how to set up their own guitar(s). You're going to need to keep re-doing it anyway. $20-40 seems pretty cheap unless you're not including any fretwork. I'm curious though why you think filing the nut is something one wouldn't be able to do. If it's because nut files are expensive, get a set of these and file notches in them to turn them into little saws. Spending time learning to do this stuff I find pretty valuable, but it takes some practice. But learning to do it, along with fretwork, will allow you to make almost anything feel really nice and be very playable.
Just a friendly Public Service announcement for those who are interested: Fender Champion 100-Watt Electric Guitar Amplifier ON Sale for $279.95 - Seems to be a $50 dollar low. https://www.amazon.com/Fender-Champion-100-100-Watt-Amplifier/dp/B00EM5UOBE
Just a friendly public service announcement, in case anyone is looking for a cheap reliable clip on tuner. The Fender FT-1 is ON SALE at Amazon for $7.95. https://www.amazon.com/Fender-FT-1-Professional-Clip-On-Tuner/dp/B073ZPTM1F
Basically it goes between your amp output and your speaker and acts like a master volume.
So you can crank your amp. Get your tubes super toast, get all the great sound from it, at seriously low volumes.
Check out some YouTube demos of that.
There’s a lot on Amazon. Here’s something similar: https://www.amazon.com/Zussun-Mountain-Tapestry-Hanging-Stars/dp/B08Q77SZLH/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_sspa?crid=3AAAT5O3DG6MY&keywords=wall+tapestry&qid=1664638399&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI5LjM1IiwicXNhIjoiOS4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjguODEifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=wall+t...
There’s a bunch on Amazon. Here’s something similar: https://www.amazon.com/Zussun-Mountain-Tapestry-Hanging-Stars/dp/B08Q77SZLH/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_sspa?crid=3AAAT5O3DG6MY&keywords=wall+tapestry&qid=1664638399&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI5LjM1IiwicXNhIjoiOS4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjguODEifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=wall+t...
Link to something similar on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Zussun-Mountain-Tapestry-Hanging-Stars/dp/B08Q77SZLH/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_sspa?crid=3AAAT5O3DG6MY&keywords=wall+tapestry&qid=1664638399&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI5LjM1IiwicXNhIjoiOS4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjguODEifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=wall+t...
When I gigged (a decade ago), strings lasted 1 night. Imagine not having a guitar tech and having to replace strings after every show, that was me. Good thing we were not good enough to be booked regularly lol. Anyway, my routine now as a bedroom guitarist is to wipe the strings with microfiber before and after. I also use this from Music Nomad every time I pick a guitar up: https://www.amazon.com/MusicNomad-Guitar-Cleaner-Lubricant-MN145/dp/B0787CN4M3. Strings will last a year with this routine.
Don’t buy any of those. Buy a snark, been using these for years, they are solid, easy to read, and accurate.
Of course! I can speak on EART personally and would also back Agiles model to be great entry level ones.
EART Headless Electric Guitar fixed Bridge for Travel Guitar Small Full-scale Guitar Ultra-Light For Performance Right Solid-Body Guitar, Purple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BBYS9KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WMT7SRQK0WH17EC01T8G
Good lord sorry. I watched endless reviews on this guitar because it has to be ordered through Amazon, but it is fantastic, everything they say about the neck and fret work is true. If I traveled for work this is the one I would take and I have recommended whole heartedly to personal friends for that purpose.
Folks have mentioned all the important stuff, so I'll just drop this link for some nice cleaning stuff. No, you do not have to buy this entire set. Start with the polish and the microfiber cloths. You can get the rest as needed. There's plenty of other brands out there, this is just what I personally use. All I really use on a daily basis is a single cloth; I give my bass a little once over after I'm done playing every time. The rest is usually seasonal.
I have a secret lab titan in the softweave
first of all. Congrats on the chair. these things are super nice. Mine is nearly 2 years old and still looks as good as day 1
second. I don't play in it because the arm rests don't flip up. they adjust is like 4 other ways, but don't lift up.
I picked up this and keep it in a corner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0731XS2XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just have this next to my desk and use when playing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0731XS2XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
my regular computer chair is a Secret Lab titan, which does not have fold up arm rests but is the best quality chair I've ever owned.
Not the exact same (looks like what I bought is no longer sold) but very very similar to what I have. I bought mine on amazon as well.
This is a solid answer. As for a tool for removal (mentioned in other comments) a speed crank like this one (link below, 1st on a goggle search) is meant to pop them when you change strings. The round cut in boxed end is used to 'hook' below the fat part of the pin, and lift the pin out (once you relieve the pressure on the string).
This thing incredible from my amateur perspective: cheapest usb to 1/4 I could find and turns my electric guit into a magical lightening machine via all the Garageband pedal options. Just a little bit of background air noise when strumming, but doesn't bother me; perhaps there's a way around it too. Highly recommend!
Monoprice 611720 20-Watt 1x8 for something good, but basic.
Fender Mustang LT-25 for something with more features.
This one is essentially the same mount I used https://www.amazon.com/Mippko-Compatible-Samsung-360°Adjustment-Drilling/dp/B09X99V7SY/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=C2NL4B9AF1CG&keywords=phone+clip+mount&qid=1661983773&sprefix=phone+clip+mount%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-8
Looks like a Tokai talbo, there seems to be a range of headstocks out there, maybe like https://www.amazon.co.jp/TOKAI-%E3%83%88%E3%83%BC%E3%82%AB%E3%82%A4-%E3%82%A8%E3%83%AC%E3%82%AD%E3%82%AE%E3%82%BF%E3%83%BC-TALBO-186SH/dp/B07LD426YK
Here's a good variety pack with different thicknesses, in both Celluloid and Duralin, for $4
No problem. I would recommend a pack like this one if you likexthe Jazz lll. I always found the best way to choose a pick was find the thickness you like, then the shape, then the type of point.
I like these Fender, celluloid, 346 shape. I use mediums for guitar and heavies for bass. I try to get the mediums in white, and the heavies in tortoiseshell for quick identification at a glance.
You can get an adapter to go from the 6.35mm (1/4") mono guitar plug to 3.5mm (1/8") stereo mic input.
Here is one on Amazon US.
It may not sound very good though.
Look for an amp with an "Aux" input. That's is what they are for. There are many amps with that feature. The Fender Mustang LT25 has one. This Monoprice model is a less expensive example. There are many more.
I got one of these a few days ago as well. I upgraded the bridge to a Wilkinson individually intonatable three saddle bridge and it made the guitar much easier to play and it sounds much more like that authentic Tele sound. I think the Bridge was only £17 and I didn't have any issues with it. Try stringing it through the bridge and not through the string through holes as well, as that made bends a lot easier. Mine was a little stiff feeling before.
The term "aux cable" means different things, to differnet people, in various contexts. I'm going to take a second shot, and guess that you're talking about this type of cable:
That--generically speaking--is a "Two conductor, plus shield cable with male stereo 1/8" (3.5mm) plugs at either end". Some might call it a * cable with two male 1/8" (3.5mm) Tip/Ring/Sleeve plugs*.
In any case, it is a stereo cable, with stereo plugs. Your guitar is a mono device. It would be best to purchase adaptors that will be 1/8" Stereo female to 1/4" mono male, but those are not always easy to find. If you do purchase 1/8" stereo female to 1/4" Stereo adapters it'll probably work okay, but my experience is that low cost adaptors don't work very reliably, and if you are purchase good quality adaptors, then you've spent almost as much as a guitar cord.