No. That's just a voltage regulator and most electronics have one built in anyway. You won't get a bit more use out of your batteries with this.
Yeah, just as I thought; it's a total scam.
just buy any strong LED flashlight that has a strobe mode. that alone is pretty effective in a dark environment. to get the same effect at daylight will be much harder to achieve.
Keep in mind, that you will need high power rechargable lithium ion batteries (like 18650 or 26650 cells) to keep the flashlight somewhat compact while still being able output enough light. so choose one that uses those (maybe even more than one cell) and get some brand name cells (samsung/lg/panasonic/sanyo or sony or protected versions of these cells from reputable brands like efest or keepower, never buy any cell with "fire" already in the name like "trustfire, ultrafire and similar shit cells". avoid cells that advertise more than 3600mAh (for 18650). these will ALWAYS be fake) and a charger for them.
Are the remote yours or belong to the complex?
Since it's on the motorcycle, if you have a bluetooth headset with which you can tell Google/Siri to do stuff for you, I would get a wifi relay (one for each remote) and wire it to the remote this way you can control it entirely from your phone/helmet through an app or the likes. I've done this for an opener because I didn't want to pay for the fancy attachment they sold to make it work with my phone so I just wired a wifi relay to the remote and control it through my phone/helmet. It's pretty damn sweet.
Alternatively, you can get a smaller universal remote like this one but I've never tried it and the pairing may be a hassle.
From the looks of it it's only a fuse holder and a couple of connector blocks, you could use a normal block for the neutral and earth and a separate fuse holder, obviously these will need to meet whatever the current rating of the machine.
It would might cause feedback, but you could try a y splitter and a y combiner, something like this to split your headset, and something like this to combine the headset microphone with the phone out for the recorder in. They even have 3 way splitters you could use on the phone so you wouldn't have to listen through the recorder out, you would only have the headphones plugged into the recorder in, which might be less likely to create feedback. Just search under aux audio splitters or adapters and there are a ton of options, I just pulled the first 2 I saw. Good luck.
Run wire from switch of preexisting noisemaking device into a doorbell button housing. Trick is matching the doorbell. but solenoid switch from hardware store and of course, Wire.
Minor soldering might be required depending on the device you use.
Like this, you could record audio then break out the button switch to an external switch. You might even be able to use the button mechanics in the fake doorbell.
Of course arduino is the easy answer. but i'm hacking devices over here.
Any luck with this yet? I've been on and off trying to do the same thing to my W for about a year now with no luck yet. I tried a CF to ZIF adapter and no luck (Card might have actually been bad) and at the moment I'm trying to get this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PR8NQO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to work also without success so far.
The player still works fine with an actual HDD but I'm pretty rough with it and I have to replace the HDD about once a year due to falls etc. Trying to get any kind of solid state storage in here for durability.
Hi! I wanted something similar but i quickly realized i don't know anything about wires, so i bought a switchbot and i control it from a raspberry pi that's running home assistant. Not the smartest solution, but it works!
go to the desk organization section and get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Safco-Products-3255BL-Organizer-Horizontal/dp/B000GR80L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1507724032&sr=8-1&keywords=desk+organizations you could store laptops on top and bottom
> I'm picturing using those cheap $20-30 rgb strips off of amazon
Well, that seems wasteful, since all the LEDs are connected, and you want to space them out. You could try to do strips, and not use every LED on the strip (or manually disconnect and reconnect every other inch). But you probably want a group of several LEDs per 'box', so a single strip running behind a row of box won't cut it. Maybe a few parallel strips running behind a row of boxes?
The actual LEDs are dirt-cheap 0.14 each, even on Amazon but wiring them up would take a lot of labor.
These might make better building blocks.
> light diffusing sheet or panel.
That seems like the easy part to me (having not tested it at all, of course.) I'd look for frosted glass/plastic for covering bathroom windows. Also that plastic used over fluorescent ceiling lights. Maybe even try multiple layers. And/or just wax paper. Just buy a bunch of stuff and experiment.
My carrier MetroPCS (which doesn't have great rural coverage) and I believe other carriers such as T-Mobile offer free, unlimited streaming on certain music apps. I use Google Play Music almost incessantly and it doesn't count towards my data. Depending on where you're located and where the coverage maps are you might check out these kinds of plans.
/u/Tired8281 makes a good point as well. A simple, cheap PC with a touch screen mounted on your dash would make a great distribution system. Put the main OS on a flash drive or SSD and either mount your storage disks with shock proof bushings or suspend them with pantyhose or some form of stretchy fabric. I had a buddy who shoved his main drive (pre SSD days) in a length of hose and suspended it like a hammock in his vehicle PC case. Thing ran for ages.
There is an obscure technology called HomePNA that can use telephone wires for Ethernet. Everything nowadays is pretty old and 10 megabit only. There's other stuff like VDSL2 for longer hauls.