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If you want it to look nice, here are some direct from EVGA that are sleeved.
If you just want a cheap simple extension, you could go for something like this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200124
There are a couple of distro's you could use.
Either use Ubuntu which is kinda useful friendly and constantly updated with a good community with all the good Linux Customization.
Or use (Elementary OS)[https://elementary.io/] which is super user friendly and is great for media but it doesnt come with a lot of the Linux Customization that a lot of people want. It is a more set up experience. The good news is that Elementary also uses the Ubuntu app store, which is nice.
Sadly if you want to use XBMC the only way I know of how to do this is to use Windows. If you have any questions let me know.
I removed the GPU and it runs games without crashing.
I have found out that The GIGABYTE RX 480 G1 8GB GDDR5 DVI/HDMI/3XDP Gaming Video Card has a BIOS (F4) error. I tired downloading the new BIOS (F8) and installing it but I do not know if it took because it still crashed.
Other people have posted the steps on amazon reviews for the GPU
Hey so another redditor point some stuff out and ran an idea by me.
First. The case is the small form not the ultra small so it will support a 16pin card correct.?
He said they did kinda the same thing but ended just popping off the side of the case and using https://www.amazon.com/Dovewill-Powered-Extension-Extender-Flexible/dp/B076KNDYCF/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521518585&sr=1-9&keywords=PCI+Express+16X+Riser+Card+Extender+Flex+Flexible+Extension+Cable. As well as dome zip ties to secure it in a stable fashion. I know its not the smartest option. But would that work. And again sorry to bombard you. Just trying to learn.
The RX 480 only draws around 150w, which isn't a huge amount. You should be fine I'd say with any PSU 400+w. As another member said, you can get a dual molex to 6 pin pci that looks like this.
If you can list the PSU you have in the build, myself or someone else will be able to tell you if the PSU comes with the PCI cable or if an adapter like that will be needed. If the PSU is only 400w or even lower, it would be ideal to list all your parts, so someone can check you will have enough power available.
Worst case you may end up needing a new PSU, something like this 500w EVGA bronze 80+ is reliable, should cover your power requirements (depending on other components, but I'd be surprised to find otherwise) and not overly expensive (£57) for what your getting.
The 2 molex will come direct from the PSU, check you have these spare before you order the adapter. Can you get a picture of the label on the PSU for us to look at, or just let us know the make and model that should be shown on the label?
I wouldn't want you to end up using a cheap PSU that could potentially damage components in the future, some can be rated at 550w, but not provide that continuously.
Cheaper credible PSUs exist to the EVGA I mentioned, a 500w corsair is only £42.99.
I just wouldn't want you to end up loosing a £200 GPU and other components, due to a cheap PSU installed in a pre-built PC. Quite often the PSU installed is bare minimum to get the original components working and might not support improvements.
I read that its the same to use VGA slots instead of PCI-E (Which are none existent in my PSU) but still I don't know how the connections go, since the GPU is 2 6 pins and in the PSU it is 6 pin socket each VGA.
Grab a hdmi to dvi adaptor or a hdmi to dvi cable depending on your preference and use that to connect to the 60hz, they're pretty cheap and will save you the headache of trying to grapple with two gpus at once.
I'm going to assume you're in the USA, if so something like this would work fine: HDMI-DVI Cable or HDMI-DVI Adaptor
They're really common so you may find some cheap ones at a local store if you'd prefer to avoid waiting for delivery.
You didn't mention how it's connected to your laptop, but some headphones (including yours, judging by the Amazon page) can run the mic and headset through the same cable.
Your sound card may not be able to pick up that it's a 'dual-cord', however. My PC has this problem. You may need to be split the cord manually to the headphone and mic jacks.
http://www.amazon.com/Smartphone-Headset-Adapter-Audio-Female/dp/B00SY8V4G4
Something like this may be what you're looking for. Hope it helps.
Not all computers will have a SSD and HDD, especially if purchased pre-assembled, so there might not be an original SSD to replace. If you didn't build it yourself, you might need to purchase a SATA cable (the one that goes from SSD to motherboard - assuming it is a SATA SSD).
If it does, then it may be worth keeping the old connected anyway, I use a 120GB SSD for OS and basic programs, then a 480GB SSD for games and finally a 2TB HDD for storage.
If you want the new SSD to have the OS and still keep the old one, you might need to change boot priority in BIOS, so windows loads from the new SSD.
Also if you don't have a slot for the new SSD in your case, you can find an adaptor cheap online or most computer / electronics shops. Something like this will do the job.
Yes indeed it does
I was thinking about getting one of these
EDIT
sorry wrong link
Or this
Triangle is indeed positive, it shouldn't matter much because a switch doesn't get affected by the direction of current.
That said, I would start by checking if all the cables, graphics card, and ram are plugged in all the way. According to your motherboard manual, the motherboard has "EZ Debug LEDs" (pg 40 in the manual) if one of those leds light up that's the problem. If none of those light up, I would check that the powersupply is working either by using a spare powersupply to test and see if your build turns on or by using a monitoring plug like the Killawatt to see if the powersupply is drawing power from the wall. If none of that works, I would remove the graphics card and use the integrated graphics to see if its a dead card. If you have some spare sticks of ram I would try them to check for dead ram, also try the ram in the other two slots.
If it's none of that, I would assume its a dead motherboard or a dead CPU. However, your description sounds like a dead powersupply, so test that first.
link i actually just ordered this after trying to do research i know it will connect to my hardrive but will it work to transfer files. if not i can still return or cancel order right now.
This build will be certainly capable of displaying up to 144 fps. I think the reason why /u/Zent_Tech was suggesting 60 fps is because sometimes when a gamer says 60+ fps, they just want a 60 fps constant, and a 60hz monitor and a lower end gpu would provide a great gaming experience. However, many people swear by 144hz, and if you want to experience ridiculously high frame rates and silky smooth gameplay, the components here are the way to go. As for the cpu cooler, the 212 Evo is always a favorite, but I would also look at the thermalright. It is up there with the best air coolers in terms of performance and noise, and is a fraction of the cost. As for the case, Corsair makes very attractive cases, and cases are very subjective, so generally if you went for the case that looked the best to you from a reputable company, then you will be fine. I would recommend looking at the Fractal Define S though, I have it and love the noise dampening, and separate chambers for the hdd/ssd and the main components, meaning you get pretty much unrestricted airflow (No drive cages blocking airflow.)
I just bought some of these (they are compatible with all PSU's and equipment. They are just simple extensions).
Reasonably priced for sleeved cables. If you want to make it look good, I'd suggest buying the 24-pin one and the GPU 8-pin ones as well (for however many you may need). I ended up getting 2 12v 8-pin CPU's, the 24-pin, and 2 8-pin GPU's for my system. Haven't set it up yet, but I can see exactly how it's going to look and it looks awesome.