Sorry, if that wasn't very clear or detailed, I was on my phone then. I like plastic for the primary because of weight and not being breakable. To me it doesn't make sense for the heavier/slicker/breakable/expense all to be stacked on one side of the equation. The reason for glass on the secondary for big beers is oxidation. Some theorize that the plastic will let more oxygen through while big beers sit for extended periods in the secondary.
Starsan. I don't know how people brewed without the stuff. Be sure to read the directions to get the proper amount. You'll only need to make a gallon or so. It foams, so it doesn't take that much to slosh around in the carboy. I keep the extra in a gallon container for later use (racking/bottling).
I recommend doing a full boil. I use an 8 gallon turkey fryer pot. If you use a kit, you may have to pull about 10-20% of the hops to compensate for doing a full boil (the more water you have the higher efficiency you get from hops). One of the first upgrades I'd also recommend is either a counterflow chiller (CFC) or a chill plate. If you're handy soldering at all, or know someone who is, you can build a quality one for cheap. There's a really good diy one on homebrewtalk. Grab some silicon tubing to use with it to siphon the boiling wort. The beauty is that it brings the wort through the "danger zone" where bacteria likes to grow (something like 100-140 deg f) in like 6 seconds vs 15 minutes with any other method. This goes farther to prevent infections than anything other than starsan IMO. Just be sure to clean out the CFC real well every time.
I should also note that infected batches are far more rare than you'd imagine. I've never had one nor have either of my close friends who brew regularly. Besides, there's no known pathogens that can grow in beer. Between the yeast and the alcohol, the worst thing you can get is a beer that tastes funny/bad due to bacteria. It won't kill you. Hope this helps.
When you plugged the SD to your PC, did it work?
If thats a no:
*try cleaning the SD golden pins with isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip
If thats a yes:
*Try cleaning the SDport with some isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip
*If that didn't work, maybe the connection itself is dirty. You can open your 3ds (CAREFULLY), unscrew and unplug the SDport, clean the pins and plug the SDport once again
*If that didn't work, i deduce that it is broken
You can buy a new port from amazon and plug it
I recommend a brown ale like "the dog", a newcastle clone. In my recipe, I accidentally left out the 2lbs of biscuit-flavored malts, so the beer came out tasting more chocolatey than biscuity!
I recommend brewing using "The Dog" brown ale recipe, and instead of 5LBS light DME (dried malt extract, use 3LBS light DME and 2lbs caramel DME.
In my recipe, I used 3lbs light, 3lbs amber, and got a beautiful color. The chocolate toasted malts also added significant flavor.
I have a 64 gb card on my 2DS, I just converted the sdxc to fat32 using a converter I found online. I forget which one I used, but here's one I found on Google just now. Have fun!
Homebrew for mac os which I am talking about is a package manager with which you can install software on your mac via shell quite easily.
Now the thing is that the official brew repo only takes projects which are at least a little popular. What I did is a 3rd Party repo where I can release my small software projects for the sake of being able to install them via brew. You can read more here: https://brew.sh/
You mean converting your games, which currently are in ISO format into WBFS?
The Wii Backup Manager should automatically do this when transferring your games to your hard drive / usb stick.
Also, you can select your games and use Transfer -> WBFS File to directly convert them into WBFS and save them to your computer
extract as in from a .zip? p sure you can just doubleclick and extract, if not, install Keka and extract with that. Then just drag and drop the folder or files you need onto the SD card on the desktop, itll copy onto the card.
buy an sd card. they're cheap. you can literally get a 16gb one for 15 dollars.
Ideally you don't want to juice them. You let them sit in a container for 3-4 days at around 45F (dry ice works well to cool). If you juice/press them too early, you'll have very astringent cotton-mouth tannins and green bell pepper flavours (3-methoxy-2isobutylpyrazine). Add s02 before you cold soak though, otherwise you'd be at risk of microbiological stability.
We add enzymes during cold soak to help extract color. Our lab results showed that we extracted 23% of the grapes potential color (total anthocyanins) and only 4% of total potential tannins during cold soak which is what you want! AFter that ideally raise the temperature to 68-70 before innoculating, and then bring it up to 88-90F for 2 days and cool it back down as the fermentation winds down.
Don't vigorously stir, otherwise you'll introduce harsher tannins. Gently "punchdown" the skin cap. As it begins to ferment the cap will rise to the top and need to be punched back down. Make sure the cap is always wet.
There are some great books out there if you're serious. THis is what i'm digesting atm: wine science