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Canon EOS 60D, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8, ISO 100 - f/3.5 - 1/125 sec

Natural light, tripod, remote shutter and a fan, post-processed in Photoshop CS6. Coloured version here, I'm not entirely sure which one I prefer myself.

no its my fault orginal

I love using this technique! I took one of my current home (Pittsburgh) a while back and it was pretty well received.

If you do this again (and you should!), I recommend getting an app for your phone like Blue Hour that calculates sunset and blue hour timing, travel path of the sun, etc. Start about 30 minutes before sunset begins and stop about 30 minutes after the blue hour is over for maximum color.

Thank you! It was late afternoon and shot on a Canon 5d Classic with Canon 50mm 1.8 II, ISO 100, Shutter Speed 1/250, f2.0

Here is a before and after

Picture was taken in the woods around Berkeley Heights, New Jersey with an Olympus OMD EM5 MarkII and the incredibly compact Zuiko 9mm f8. Single shot, ISO200, 1/320, f8.

If you like this picture and want to see other shots of mine, check out my instagram.

Here is a 24 minute long tutorial of how to do it

or you can buy this app

There are also android and apple apps, that are a lot cheaper, and make it easy. They aren't always as good, but can't beat the ease of them.

I was not familiar, but looking it up I see what you're saying. The model has a fantastic look there is something innocent and non-threatening. Can't quite describe it.

iTunes

Google Play

I'd also recommend Snapseed for mobile editing

Thanks everyone! I was pretty nervous around this guy, but managed to snap a few shots of it. At one point the hawk saw my small dog in the window and decided to come in for a closer look.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/r_image10/13277575935/in/photostream/

Gear Nikon D800e Nikon 70-200 f/2.8

Yep! Touch Retouch in the Google Play Store

Pretty great for object removal and cloning. Some silly results, sometimes, but really good for power lines and other offending objects.

I liked it. But to achieve the real texture you seem to be looking for, one shouldn't open your lens too much. I'd assume you have a 50mm of some kind? Keep it at f/5.6 for portraits. And as a finishing touch, add a tad bit of unsharp mask.

In 2013 i see...

Here it is in a larger version if anyone needed

Here's the original shot http://i.imgur.com/YaVQ0JA.jpg ISO 400 - 23mm - F5.6 - 1/750s - 13h46 (lot of light)

Basically I corrected the white balance, notched the exposure a bit (+0.4), then pushed the whites (+60) and lowered the blacks (-20) then I used Silver Effex pro https://www.google.com/nikcollection/products/silver-efex-pro/

I could have used the built-in black and white tools in Lightroom, but for this particular shot I liked the output that I was able to get with Silver Effex. On some shots I prefer the built-in lightroom black and white, it depends.

I always do like 2-3 virtual copy of the pictures I select to try different post-processing options on them before picking the best one :)

sorry to be pedantic, but it's technically not quite either - it's the only species in the Orcinus genus.

(actually I'm sure I'm not completely right either and someone will correct me too, but they're too awesome just to write off as simply whales or dolphins. Hope you have an awesome day.)

Ninja Edit: actually, everyone's correct. I think. I need coffee.

I'm pretty sure that's not what a manta ray looks like.

I was in Morocco with my friend and he made a bet that he'd go to North Korea before i did, so when i arrived back in the UK i just googled and ended up find Koryo Tours. It was surprisingly straightforward after that, all i needed to do was transfer some money and send some scans of documents, they dealt with all the visas and paperwork. Got a Chinese visa (you need to go via Beijing) and met up with the group before spending a month going round China. It's easier than you think and Americans are allowed to visit now too.

There's an album of my photos here, i'm really pleased with some of them https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2329077187616.135781.1270290803&l=a2aeb254f0&type=1

Gear: Canon 600d, Sigma 18-250mm macro lens, LED worklight.

This one was quite straight forward, most of the work was in focus stacking, at 250mm only a very small amount of the image was in focus at a time. Some changes were made to lighting in between shots (sorry mods x)

Insta: https://tinyurl.com/yd22zf9o

hey! I also use a 20D with the 50mm 1.8. Works fine for me! I have virtually no skill in postpro, but here's some of what I've gotten so far.

flickr page

> It's also most certainly not OP's picture

https://tineye.com/search/008d5fcdfbff102646a866bddd8d8bdd301052da/?sort=size&order=desc

Not saying its not - But it at least have been see around the internet before.

On the island of Miyajima in the south the deer populations is insane. They congregate near the ferry dock and assail tourists as they emerge. Anyone with food will be accosted by deer; there have been stories of Japan Rail passes being consumed by the bastards.

On a side note... this is a wonderful picture!

>Make sure the Photoshop effect matches up with actual object distances.

If you want to reflect what an actual tilt-shift lens would produce, that's incorrect. Yes, that's the popular way to make a fake tilt effect, and can be quite aesthetic, but that's not how photos taken through one of these lenses actually comes out. Look for yourself.

Thank you! It definitely helps to know what you want out of the LED before going nuts with it lol. I actually shot this scene at the beach one night and was getting frustrated that the LED was blown out in the pitch black. I had to be very quick with the LED remote to turn it on and off while exposing and do a couple exposure blends in post, but I'm happy with the outcome.

The LED is really cheap. I found a pack of 10 on Amazon. These little things are awesome and can even be submerged in water for other cool effects.

Hey! I'm using Nova Launcher with the Pixel Icon Pack.

Basically, I wanted the general look of the Pixel launcher, but still the gestures and customizability of Nova. Also, the clock widget is this Xperia Clock.

Edit: added links

The storm happened in March 2010. I took several photos of it from the semi-safety of my car (parked under power lines). I took several exposures that varied between 15-30 seconds with small aperture (f/10) and ISO320. This image contains five distinct strikes (some cloud-to-cloud; some cloud-to-ground), that I layered into one image for dramatic effect.

I posted the original here back in late March or April 2010.

Two days ago I got an email requesting use of the photo in a book, only they were looking for more of a 4:3 aspect ratio (this one is 2:1). In order to give them a proper 4:3 I had to re-do the whole thing from scratch. At first I didn't like that idea, but then I started finding "mistakes" in the original and I focused on correcting them and I even added a new layer (the original didn't have the ground strike on the far right). I feel OK posting this shot here since it really is a new and improved version and the 4:3 version of this is getting published.

The blur doesn't even need to be there. I have some street photography where everything is in focus and I think it works.

These are great!

Here is a 365 artist that kinda turned into multiple years haha. I've been following him forever. Great inspiration! https://www.flickr.com/photos/joel_r/

GET A FLICKR ACCOUNT! :)

Vikatgad Peb Fort, Matheran, Maharashtra, India. Risky trail along mountain edges in the Sahyadris, but stunningly beautiful, studded with waterfalls, age-old train tracks, streams, and fresh monsoon greenery. Higher quality, less compressed picture on Unsplash.

Well, this is actually my first go at it, so I needed to try it once. It was very impromptu and without much preparation (overly vigilant).

I checked out your flickr page, I totally love this photo.

I like to use Adobe Photoshop Express app for mobile editing. It gives you some awesome filters and some tools to make your photos look better. It also can be used in any mobile OS and in PC.
http://www.photoshop.com/products/photoshopexpress

Camera: Canon 350D

Lens: Canon 17-40mm F4 L

Total number of pictures : 7 or 8

Tool used to stitch the pictures: Hugin - absolutely wonderful open source tool

Location: Near Potash, driving from Canyonlands to Moab, Utah.

(Edit: Added location)

Thanks, I hope so, architectural photography is a bit of an art of its own. I ended up not being able to quite get the photo straight on, so I used Hugin to get the perspective right.

Canon 650D + Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 set up on a small tripod and I used an app on my phone called DSLR Controller to change the camera settings without touching it (to avoid moving it since I took multiple exposures.)

Great shot! I know how hard it is to get one in focus while they are flying around.

If you want to see what the colorful patterns look like up close, I shot this about a week ago: https://vimeo.com/98229357

We might be getting pretty close:

Video can be shot at 1/30 second. So thats about 10 stops below 30 seconds, which I have shot here. That means we have to make up 10 stops compared to the f/2.8 and ISO1000 I've shot in the photo.

Let's say the 24mm f/1.4L lens would work well for this kind of stuff. If we shoot at f/1.4 that's 2 stops back on f/2.8 already. 8 to go.

The rest we will have to make up in ISO. 8 stops on ISO1000 is ISO256000. Sounds pretty ridiculous, but both Nikon and Canon's current flagship cameras both shoot up to ISO204800: see article here.

The photos are pretty dodgy, but these are only $6000 camera bodies we're talking about here. I'd assume if the military pumped a few million dollars into making a sensor cleanish at this ISO level, they'd be able to achieve it. They probably already have.

Let me know if you would like to have different resolutions to use as a wallpaper! I think it'll look pretty cool as a wallpaper on your phone :P.

And here is my portfolio if you would like to have a look! https://www.flickr.com/photos/123941125@N03/

> A subreddit about photography techniques and styles.

Good choice on B/W. The composure has a lot to bite in to. I'm amateur, the only thing that throws me off is the lighting.

On another note, I really like your other photos. https://www.flickr.com/photos/tedholmwood/ Sunsets, living in Arizona as I do, tend to draw me in. Good stuff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3ZywvL9BoU here is short commercial I shot for Upland brewery out of Bloomington, Indiana. (I didn't record the audio lol)

and here is a little video I made on a snow day a few weeks ago. https://vimeo.com/83454877

I work at a small market T.V. station here in Indiana. I'm a Videographer/editor for a women's lifestyle show.

It's fun, but almost everything I shoot has been paid for, so It's basically a commercial. I'll see if I can find a link for something I've done at work....which is where I do a majority of my shooting/editing :P

It has to be on purpose, and you shouldn't need a filter. Just step up the F-stop until the camera is asking for 20 or 30 seconds for a shot, stay out of the frame for half of the exposure and then jump in quickly to where you want to hold a pose and keep it until you hear the shutter close. I came upon this effect accidentally and really like it, too.

People's eyes tend focus more the brighter area of the photo. This means to most people they are simply seeing an out of focus tree in the forest. If the story you are trying to tell is about the moss you really need another way to draw the focus to it.

You can try boosting the shadows and see if maybe some more details in the moss will pop out and hope the more even light dark balance will draw the eye in to the moss, but right now this just doesn't quite work.

Here is my industrial decay gallery where I am telling a story about rust, chipping paint, and grime:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jcwolfe00/sets/72157643484165554/

I love the WTC memorial. Here's a similar one I took last time I visited.

Edit-I think I like yours a lot better. The water droplets really add to it I think.

Pictured is the Mitchell Institute for Physics and Astronomy at Texas A&M University. We have some cool architecture and physics inspired flooring here.

Here is the view looking down:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/56516360@NPictured is the Mitchell Institute for Physics and Astronomy at Texas A&M University. We have some cool architecture and physics inspired flooring here.

Here is the view looking down:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/56516360@N08/12982113815/

The wire in the original shot is the pendulums wire. 08/12982113815/

The wire in the original shot is the pendulmns wire.

I am but i only recently started using it, although i plan on using it a lot more: https://instagram.com/scott1928/

i mainly use flickr but it seems to be getting a bit old fashioned now: https://www.flickr.com/photos/scott1928/

That is an awesome shot. I do love puddles and reflections - not just puddle reflections. I am bit obsessed with them. Here is the only real public picture I have of using reflections to get a more interesting photo.

Even this is incorrect. It depends on where you are. For example, there will be a full moon on Saturday, September 14, 2019 at 4:33 AM UTC. That means that UTC-5 (for example, CDT in the US) and west of that, there will be a full moon on Friday, September 13, 2019, as you can see here.

For anybody who might want to try something like this with the ISS. There is an Ifttt (or just IF now i think) recipe that nofities you 30 minutes before the ISS is going to be over your location...

Edit: For android

and for iOS.

*Mayan. It's a woman from a Mayan Village not far from San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas. She is Mayan by ethnicity and Mexican by nationality.

Contrary to popular belief, not all Maya were removed/bred with. There are plenty of people of pure Maya heritage in central america.

Best way I know is to use exiftool to see what the white balance was set at. Flickr also has a display of the exif data.

I just looked at your Flickr page and the white balance was set to auto.

There are external hardware intervalometers that you can connect to your DSLR, but if you have a Canon DSLR which supports Magic Lantern, that'd give you an intervalometer, if your camera doesn't have one stock.

After you have a bunch of pictures, you can stack them in a program like StarStax.

Source: I've created an image almost exactly like this one using those two bits of software.

Of course, you can use Photoshop as well, but I have no idea how. Too rich for my blood, and it doesn't run on my OS anyway.

a split second in my mind went by that I thought my photo had been stolen. especially since i sold a license on this a few months ago. that's such a fun spot. I used to go the whole way up, and then climb on the roof of the building

If you like the idea of people using your photo as a wallpaper, you might want to try submitting it to Interfacelift. I think they would love it.

I've seen something similar on interfacelift if you like that kind of thing. Been enjoying it for a while and would love to add this one to the collection.

Yeah I used ColourEfexPro which is part of the Google Nik Collection, I used a film look effect to get a subdued sepia tone.

Here's a link- https://www.google.com/nikcollection/products/color-efex-pro/

So cool! How does it look with icons and stuff? If you want more possible desktop backgrounds feel free to poke at my pictures on https://unsplash.com/samuelzeller They are all full sized, free of rights :)

Source The ice from the last ice-age pressed the plate down. Now its supposed to be rising again, and faster than oceans will rise.

>In Scandinavia is still rising land mass, mostly in the Gulf of Bothnia (9 mm / year) and at least along the west coast of Norway (Figure 1). The current land rise in Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim and Tromsø are respectively about 4 mm / year, 0 mm / year, 3 mm / year and 1 mm / year. If one assumes that the global sea level may be 50 inches higher in a hundred years, in Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim and Tromsø will be a net sea level rise, respectively, ~ 10, ~ 50, ~ 20 and ~ 40 centimeters.

Translated by google, im to lazy to do it myself

Sure:

Nikon D200, 105/4 micro AI-s @ f/11, 1/60 s, SB-600 on-camera in TTL mode, ISO 400 (oops, 100 or 200 would have been cleaner, but whatever)... Handheld, I had to stand on a chair to get high up enough.

There was a canon 250D close-up filter on the lens (I prefer extension tubes, but they're at school).

Was shot in raw. Post was in Lightroom, cooled the WB down a little ('twas really orange out of camera), cropped a bit (to 6mp from 10), tweaked exposure, pulled down the blue saturation a bit to tone down the shiny glare from the on-camera flash, pulled up the clarity/contrast, tweaked curves, and added a tiny vignette to make the background a little less flat.

Exif data Camera Nikon D3S Exposure 1/2500 sec Aperture f/7.1 Focal Length 24 mm ISO Speed 100 Exposure Bias -1/3 EV Flash No Flash X-Resolution 240 dpi Y-Resolution 240 dpi Software Ver.1.00 Date and Time (Modified) 2010:08:27 01:22:11 Artist THOMAS LUTHI Exposure Program Manual Date and Time (Original) 2010:08:26 19:29:44.82+02:00 Date and Time (Digitized) 2010:08:26 19:29:44 Max Aperture Value 2.8 Subject Distance 1.26 m Metering Mode Multi-segment Light Source Unknown Sub Sec Time Original 82 Sub Sec Time Digitized 82 Sensing Method One-chip color area CFAPattern [Red,Green][Green,Blue] Custom Rendered Normal Exposure Mode Manual White Balance Manual Digital Zoom Ratio 1 Focal Length In35mm Format 24 mm Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control None Contrast Normal Saturation Normal Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Unknown Compression JPEG (old-style) By-line THOMAS LUTHI Viewing Conditions Illuminant Type D50 Measurement Observer CIE 1931 Measurement Flare 0.999% Measurement Illuminant D65 XMPToolkit Adobe XMP Core 4.2-c020 1.124078, Tue Sep 11 2007 23:21:40 Creator Tool Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Label Blau Lens 24.0-70.0 mm f/2.8 Lens ID 147 Image Number 53798 Legacy IPTCDigest F259324EC91D24D8F403126ACE3EB371 Creator THOMAS LUTHI Color Transform YCbCr Flash Return No return detection Flash Mode Unknown Flash Function False Flash Red Eye Mode False

I'm not OP but I've used this brand several times and they're really cool. They last a long time, too. You just chuck the individual packets (DO NOT OPEN) onto the fire.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QXY9U1C/

Thanks! There's a good amount to choose from on Amazon, this is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G45GLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . There are probably cheaper ones that do the exact same thing.

I can recommend a good app for photo editing if you do get into photography more. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vsco.cam

But I would recommend not having the bird there and maybe putting the exposure up a bit unless you're going for the kind of style it is

VSCO is great, and for mobile I also highly recommend Snapseed, which is a google-made app I didnt even knew existed until a fellow photographer recommended it to me. Amazingly feature-rich editing app that even has the ability to do Raw conversion, brush-painted exposure/saturation/temp and even healing. Its free, and works on iPhone as well.

Shot on a canon 600D with EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II, 18mm, ƒ/13, 4s, ISO 100. I think this is one of my better photos I have taken only been doing photography just under a year. you can check out some of my other photos here

https://www.facebook.com/pages/taren-maroun-photography/406683910860 Add my facebook page, occasionally I put up before and afters and whatnot.

what do you want to know in specific? I'd love to fill you in!

Perhaps I'll borrow a real camera and take a better picture. It's kinda stupid, I work with a complicated, expensive camera at work every day for scientific purposes, taking pictures of protein gels, so I manipulate f-stops and all that, but I don't own a camera myself. Mind you, I'd have no idea how to focus it on anything further than 8 inches away...

the ambient light wouldn't register at these settings.. this was at ISO 100 f./71 and 1/125th..

to bring in ambient I'd have to shoot around ISO 600 or more.. f./ 3/5 and 1/80th or so.. but this was lit with a strobe..

We had a similar photography challenge on our web site.

Put a disposable camera in the hands of pros all around the US and Canada and let them each take a couple pictures. Then publish them all in a gallery when it's all done.

Camera is currently in Seattle.

f/8, ISO 200. I bracketed exposures and merged in Photomatix using Exposure Fusion. I post-processed with Nikon Capture NX and Color Efex. Mostly global and spot contrast, a little cyan on the buildings and a little royal blue in the sky.

It was at the Farnborough Airshow 2010, it did a short flying display and passed next to the 'crowd' whilst it was coming in to land.

Cropped, brightened and sharpened from a shot taken at 86mm with f/7.1, 1/1000 and ISO100.

It's done by setting a high exposure time (1/1.6s in this case) and a small aperture (f/22), to capture that movement feeling without over-exposing the photo (there was a lot of light in that scene) The problem is that i had to put the camera upon the balcony so that it didn't shake and blurry all the picture. I'd definitely get better results with a tripod and a longer lens, but sometimes you gotta improvise. Thanks for asking :)

Normal camera with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Venus-Optics-Laowa-2-5-5X-Ultra-Macro/dp/B07C5DGRND https://www.amazon.com/Canon-65mm-1-5X-Macro-Cameras/dp/B00009XVD5/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1F4XYLHJCVM7E&keywords=canon+65mm+5x&qid=1657737235&s=electronics&sprefix=canon+65mm+5x%2Celectronics%2C54&sr=1-1

no one is disputing that. what's being disputed is the false narrative you're pushing as well as your sources. Here are some comparatively better sources & a better starting point for those interested.

No, friend

Only the sun and the lighter

I fixed some lights and colors with lightroom (if you are interested I made a guide some time ago to get these shades at sunset / sunrise)

This one has a USB cable plus batteries. So long as USB is plugged in the projection is constant.

https://www.amazon.ca/Jhua-Projection-Alarm-Clock-Dimmable-Alarm-Clock-Temperature-Hygrometer/dp/B082612XLY/ref=sr_1_28?crid=3QAIRMIY3JAVB&keywords=projection%2Balarm%2Bclock&qid=1651765878&sprefix=projection%2Balarm%2Bclock%2Caps%2C11...

This seems to be the one I have, or looks like it. Except I got it for $20, perhaps on a sale.

https://www.amazon.ca/Jhua-Projection-Alarm-Clock-Dimmable-Alarm-Clock-Temperature-Hygrometer/dp/B082612XLY/ref=sr_1_28?crid=3QAIRMIY3JAVB&keywords=projection%2Balarm%2Bclock&qid=1651765878&sprefix=projection%2Balarm%2Bclock%2Caps%2C11...

This is similar to the one I have. Be advised though the touch based dimness control doesnt work too well, sometimes keeps cycling dimness on its own, and at night that is very bright and disturbing. Look for something a bit better perhaps. There seems to be a ton of options on Amazon.

A lot of people are asking which clock it is. There's many projection clocks on amazon for reasonable prices.

https://www.amazon.ca/Jhua-Projection-Alarm-Clock-Dimmable-Alarm-Clock-Temperature-Hygrometer/dp/B082612XLY/ref=sr_1_28?crid=3QAIRMIY3JAVB&keywords=projection%2Balarm%2Bclock&qid=1651765878&sprefix=projection%2Balarm%2Bclock%2Caps%2C11...

This is similar to the one I have. Be advised though the touch based dimness control doesn't work too well, sometimes keeps cycling dimness on its own, and at night that is very bright and disturbing. Look for something a bit better perhaps. There seems to be a ton of options on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/Jhua-Projection-Alarm-Clock-Dimmable-Alarm-Clock-Temperature-Hygrometer/dp/B082612XLY/ref=sr_1_28?crid=3QAIRMIY3JAVB&keywords=projection%2Balarm%2Bclock&qid=1651765878&sprefix=projection%2Balarm%2Bclock%2Caps%2C11...

This is similar to the one I have. Be advised though the touch based dimness control doesnt work too well, sometimes keeps cycling dimness on its own, and at night that is very bright and disturbing. Look for something a bit better perhaps. There seems to be a ton of options on Amazon.

This might help you see things a little differently.

MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 6 PACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1CA38C6J375MCZMX96NQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It's a great picture... But at some point you have to wonder, does the world really need *another picture of the Matterhorn, the Yosemite valley of the bloody church in Bled ?

Location is Reflection Lakes.

I took the picture on Labor Day weekend.

Just fyi, it looks like someone stole your image and uploaded it to Shutterstock to try and make a buck. There's a thread about a serial image stealer and it's apparent he's stolen many peoples images from Reddit. You'll find that thread easily over on r/wildlifephotography

Otherwise, here's the link to your stolen image for you to take action:

https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/photoof-sunrise-through-ore-dock-1628443372

Good luck!

First attempt at macro photography on this beautiful Citizen CA0550-52A of a friend of mine, shot with the Nikon D5500 at 35mm, ISO 2000.

I was inspired by a user of r/watches to try macro photography but, not having a macro lens, this is the best I have achieved so far. The extremely shallow depth of field along with light control has been the biggest challenge for me.

Full resolution, free (Unsplash license) photo here: https://unsplash.com/photos/av5a6FCxHXs

I used led tube lights in a otherwise perfectly dark room. The wall has a gray-blue paint and it reflected the light perfectly to create this halo around the model (the compression of imgur kinda ruined the halo effect, sadly).

My biggest regret is that some of the tape holding the lights on her left arm fell out and I didn't notice it until much later. It kinda ruins some of the effect I think. The lights were actually very dim, it's just because I used a exposition time of about 10 seconds that they look so bright. She sometimes had problems to hold the pose for 10 seconds without shaking at all, so many of the pictures are not super clear. Still, it was a great experience and I really love the result, so much that I'll be printing this one!

edit : You can see the best ones here. Sadly, for the ground pictures, she slipped on the sheet, exposing the rest of the floor, and once again, I couldn't see it in the dark. The slip resulted in this picture.

You might like our blog: https://www.flickr.com/groups/2411266@N25/pool/?donepending=1

I run a company called Macroscopic Solutions. www.macroscopicsolutions.com

You should tell your advisors about us.

I just got a new camera yesterday, a Panasonic G6. My old camera was a point-and-shoot, so this is quite an upgrade. I took it out yesterday evening (despite the fact it was only 3 degree Celsius outside) and this was my favourite test shot. I'm still learning how to use the new camera, but I thought I would share it.

I just thought I'd give it an interesting perspective, because you're so drawn to the close up flowers the stump feels like a nice change for me, I also have this one!

If you're interested, you can find more of my pictures here!

There's nothing jerky about providing information to a discussion!

You're citing a source that hedges its claims, and presents no primary data, however. And without data to examine, we can't draw our own conclusions.

Here is a 2005 paper from the Journal of Urology:

>CBJ exerts a mixed effect on urinary stone forming propensity. It reduces urinary pH likely by providing an acid load and decreases urinary uric acid perhaps by retarding urate synthesis. Overall CBJ increases the risk of calcium oxalate and uric acid stone formation but decreases the risk of brushite stones.

In other words, when consumed at the rate of 1 liter/day, cranberry juice shifts the ratio of probabilities for what types of stones form, but does not reduce the overall risk. And we can examine their data to see if we agree.

Try placing colorful objects all around the glass.

Some time ago, I achieved the following result with wine bubbles:

https://500px.com/photo/31467765/

It would be very interesting to see a similar effect with oil.

Sorry, It was using a Tameron 70-300 at about 230mm, f/5

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27288683@N04/5272569544/

I have sharpened it a little so that might make the out of focus bits pretty weird I guess..

Thanks!

Have at it: Moonblast.CR2

1. I'm a night photography noob.
2. The full moon rose over San Diego on Saturday 12/6/14 at 5:19 pm.
   
3. I took this photo from the northern edge of Fort Rosecrans National Cemetery. I was the only living one there. The gate was open. I saw no one from 5pm - 5:40pm.
4. Canon 6d and this lens at 300mm. This is the first time I'd used a tripod. ISO 250. f5.6.
5. I want to get better at this.

Just messaged you. This photo is from Shutter Stock: https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/adult-backpacker-blur-1080678803?irgwc=1&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=TinEye&utm_source=77643&utm_term=

I got together with alternative model Rii Levesque who is known as LilMissPUKEfce online.

We got together for a school assignment that was titled "Work with an Animal", so we played around and took some pictures with her chameleon Poe and her mice Zelda and Midna.

She has an incredible legend of Zelda sleeve, and Poe (the chameleon) is sitting right on King Dodongo.

If you'd like to see the whole set of photos you can see it here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/angelamarybutler/

And to check out more of LilMissPUKEfce's modelling you can go here: https://www.facebook.com/LEGENDofLMPF

Flickr Link

EXIF:

• Nikon D5100 18.0-55.0 mm ƒ/3.5-5.6 Lens
• Aperture: ƒ/10.0
• Exposure: 1/400s
• ISO: 100
• Focal length: 18mm

Shot in RAW, edited & processed with Adobe Photoshop CS6 Camera RAW Editor

Ah might be different on mobile, true. You could try requesting the desktop site to see if that works, on desktop it opens to this link: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNQzREm81irPAbN5G0jrDuLXOp5MmN_9dKDNWJL6xlIiUFQkpJ36Uqaxm1vW_cypg?key=UUFkTFNQUUNYaFAwUV83TUxrNk13LXp6cmJWdDhR

Old school here.

Cut my teeth with a totally manual Pentax K1000 and black & white film in the late 70's into the 80's.. Here are the RGB channel values for classic black & white films:

​

Film Name Red Green Blue

Agfa200x 18 41 41

Agfapan25 25 39 36

Agfapan100 21 40 39

Agfapan400 20 41 39

IlfordDelta100- 21 42 39

IlfordDelta400- 22 42 37

IlfordDelta00pro 31 36 33

Ilford FP4 28 41 31

IlfordHP5 23 37 40

Ilford SFX 33 36 31

Ilford XP2 Super 21 42 37

Kodak Tmax 100 24 37 39

Kodak Tmax 400 27 36 37

Kodak Tri-X 25 35 40

A very good GIMP tutorial:

https://www.gimp.org/tutorials/Digital_Black_and_White_Conversion/

Thanks for posting. Look forward to seeing more images from you.

This is definitely golden hour - about an hour before sunset. It was cloudy a bit too. The light was almost cheating :D

This wasn't a pose - she was in the middle of brushing her hair and I called out to her. I like more candid type than full posed usually.

I'm REALLY working on framing. I find it the most difficult to watch while I'm shooting, even though it's right in front of me. But thank you for pointing it out.

This was a head shot session - after we went up onto the roof to shoot some more casual stuff. The headshot is here >Instagram Link

And I'll make sure to title others properly. Thank you for the critique.

If you are a chrome user this extension will fix that for you:

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/onjnjkdpcenccelaggaiakhmkjlcedab

with that said it does some weird stuff to YouTube links. Check it out.

>Light pillars are an optical phenomenon caused when light is refracted by ice crystals. These lights tend to take on the color of the light source. “They appear as beams of light to the observer. It is usually caused by street lights. However, any source of light can create a light pillar given proper conditions,” AccuWeather Meteorologist David Samuhel said.

From here

You're welcome! I went a bit past the old helicopter pad up there and cut down a little dirt trail to that spot :) It's totally worth heading to!

Here's the general hiking trailer: https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/g--1190

Thanks! I just aligned two photos as two separate layers, and blended the layers together (the gradient blend region was the length of the middle wall facing the camera).

I got the idea from a Gizmodo photo challenge, though I couldn't submit this photo because the original pictures were taken before the challenge was posted. Oh well.

More of my work can be found at my deviantART gallery.

While the OP here is indeed a fraud as others have mentioned, here is the unedited version the original-original-poster eventually provided:

https://snipboard.io/jmPEns.jpg

Just wanted to satiate the curiosity of yourself and other folks who may come along.