What are /r/minidisc's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Yeah, I got it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TOKSEL-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B08GR1XCST/

Yeah, it will tell you if you're in RX or TX mode, what codec it's using (APTX LL, APTX, or SBC), battery level of the device (up to 18 hours), and which devices are currently paired. It will stream to up to two headphones simultaneously and remember all the devices you've paired with it in case you extra BT devices. Oh, and it accepts pass-through charging so you can charge while you're using it.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Coaxial-Optical-Converter-Bi-Directional/dp/B07VHPJ1DD/

sometimes the simple solutions are the best.

I actually use a minidisc cleaner from amazon. I know folks have used IPA, but I did not have luck with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Cleaner-MD-107-MD-CL-MD8HCL/dp/B08T49B446/

One of my recorders did not record. When it tried to "record" and write the toc, it failed and the disk remained blank. I cleaned with IPA with no difference. After using this cleaner and leaving it "cleaning" for 5 minutes... it cleared things up and the recorder was happy again. That said if yours was previously recording maybe a light clean with ipa and a qtip would be ok... just make sure you are careful as the recording head is VERY fragile.

Thanks, I downloaded the inkscape template from the wiki here: https://www.minidisc.wiki/resources/labels

Then used this sticker paper through a laser printer: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CLJD6C8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6RN8A6AK9Z9D8MXBPDV1

I do get the odd failure where the toner doesn't seem to bind to the paper but generally they come out ok.

Best option would be get a TOSLINK to Mini TOSLINK cable, then out of the CD 75, in to the optical in on the minidisc.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fisual-Install-Mini-Toslink-Optical-Cable/dp/B003NT6RDO

That way you will never get the volume wrong (optical sends the digital 1s and 0s, so can't be too quiet or too loud), and will get the best quality possible.

White Lithium grease. A little dab'll do ya on a toothpick.

Smallest I've found was like a 85mL tube and that's like years maybe even decades worth of repair for these teensy devices :D

My computer tower has an optical-out built in to its onboard sound card, but my laptop doesn't - so for my laptop, I use this for recording to non-NetMD devices : https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=usb+dac&dchild=1&keywords=usb+dac&pd_rd_i=B00FEDHHKE&pd_rd_r=b243b981-5845-4438-b1c4-9a31efbe637f&pd_rd_w=HqjMn&pd_rd_wg=w0962&pf_rd_p=1da5beeb-8f71-435c-b5c5-3279a6171294&pf_rd_r=ZDM0QRXVX47V9R0QJH2K&psc=1&qid=1594544872&sr=1-1-70f7c15d-07d8-466a-b325-4be35d7258cc

I also have a JE-320 deck that's hooked up to a CD player and a turntable - so I can make mix discs comprising of tracks from vinyl records, CDs, digital files from my computer, YouTube, Spotify, etc etc

I know it's a bit off topic, but if someone lives in England, I advise him to look at this ad which offers a Sony MZ R900 untested but in good condition for £20.

Unfortunately I live in France, if I could have, I would have bought it quickly !

https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-stereo-audio/3-retro-collectors-tech-items-minidisc-player/1419783657

I know that MP3 and FLAC support ReplayGain, which is a lossless track equalisation method that doesn't modify the audio. MP3 uses Mp3Gain and FLAC has its own way to apply that (see this document). It basically tags on some metadata to the audio file without touching the actual data. Compatible audio players will then read those tags and apply the appropriate gain automatically.

Gain applied in this way should be infinitely changeable and reversible, AFAIK.

Reports of success/failure and contributions are welcome! I only tested with MZ-R90 but other devices from that era should work similarly (MZ-R37, MZ-R55, MZ-R70, MZ-R900, MZ-R700, MZ-R701, MZ-R500).

Also I only tested on Foobar2000/Windows, would love to hear from DeadBeef users on Linux and Mac.

I just bought one of these and it works perfectly fine with my S50 deck. Though that's for 100V converting to 120V.

I'm sure there are similar units for 230V to 100V

I use an old Turtle beach USB optical adapter and it works great. I can use it both on my phone and computer. One I was looking at was the Douk Audio which looks reasonably nice and Douk can make some decent stuff with good build quality. Everything is staying in the digital realm, so spending more won't necessarily give you any benefit. It's when doing the D to A conversion that engineering matters more.

Agreed - Vapex in the UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Additions%C2%AE-Gumstick-Rechargeable-Battery-Orange/dp/B0052975IY

I picked up the D4, since I also picked up some Enerloop AAs, and it's very good.

Go with what works.. Field recorders with a built in mic almost exclusively use a XY stereo condenser microphone setup.

Cheaper option:

https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-CVM-VS10-Condenser-Camcorders-Smartphones/dp/B07XYNPGHD

you know based on your buying styles you might as well buy a 100w step down transformer too. That way if your adapter doesn't get the voltage right or it takes raw 100 vac input you are fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00757RYPK/ref=twister_B075NQ3XNY

Nice. I have all three colors. Here’s a tip for live recording - get a male 1/8” to female 1/8” cable to move the mic away from the unit. This way, when you start recording, the disc won’t pick up the first few seconds of noise it normally would IG the mic is directly connected. I was able to get a few of those OEM (not the Chinese knockoffs) back in the day when they were cheaper. They record stereo beautifully. https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Electret-Condenser-Stereo-Microphone/dp/B00005QBV2

If you're only labeling the spine (like me), I use a brother label maker (like this one) with 3.5mm tape (like this). It is the perfect size.

Worked great! I printed the STL file, got the 651760 battery and this solderable battery tab 10 Meters Tinned Copper Wire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKRPQSF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and worked flawlessly!

If I’m not using platinum-md over usb I have one of these...

Behringer UCA202 U-Control Ultra low-latency 2 In/2 Out USB/Audio Interface

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ulTcFbNEKWP7D

Turns out it’s the ideal MD accessory 🥰

You can convert coax to optical giving you more options of players to look at.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N32C5GT/?coliid=I1F8JE2EWJP105&colid=2ZJCEFOYYVGFV&psc=1&ref\_=lv\_ov\_lig\_dp\_it

I've done this though more as a test bench than as a serious stereo. It can work though there are a few caveats worth knowing and accepting.

You're building a more or less standalone setup that will only playback the formats the car headunit used supports. Many people want just one amp/speaker setup that can accommodate all their formats and a car stereo doesn't really fit in with component setups.

You'll need to buy a DC PSU or cannibalize an old computer PSU and do some mod's to it. Not hard but time consuming. Then you'll need to buy some car stereo wiring and extend wires for the speakers you want to add. Again not hard but more work. At that point you have a car stereo sitting near a birds nest of wires driving some speakers. You'd probably want to do some woodworking to make a headunit holder and to help hide the wires.

If all that sounds enticing to you its a fun little project. Something happened in the 2000's where designers decided car stereos should look like they belong on the dashboard of a UFO :D.

Here are a few photos of my setup. It's extra complicated because I used an old harness I had laying around designed to tie my cars stereo system into a theft alarm setup. It's kinda handy having both a male and female set of stereo connectors to tap into but it means lots of extra wiring.

I use this one for my gumsticks. Charges both 3.7v batteries and 1.2v just fine without issue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BRTDJMD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes any 1.2v charger that the gumsticks fit should work just fine, however I err on the side of caution and wanted one that specifically goes to trickle mode when the batt is charged. Some of my older NiMh chargers wouldn't shut off automatically, ones that can also charge lithium batts will.

I haven't tried any of these, but something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Converter-Bi-Directional-Repeater-ROOFULL/dp/B01N32C5GT/ may work

Coax and TOSLINK are both really speaking S/PDIF so converters are pretty cheap.

I actually have a settop DVD recorder with a coax out, maybe I should pick one up too and take a look :P

After searching for months for the right bin, I found it-

Bins & Things Storage Container with Organizers - 4 Compartments - Blue - Craft Storage/Craft Organizers and Storage - Bead Organizer Box/Art Supply Organizer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RFG5DQ9

these? https://www.amazon.com/M1-4x3mm-Phillips-Cross-Countersunk-Flat/dp/B097ZMCLHM/ref=sr\_1\_1?c=ts&keywords=Machine%2BScrews&qid=1667353449&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI4Ljk3IiwicXNhIjoiOC44NSIsInFzcCI6IjguNTAifQ%3D%3D&refinements=p\_n\_feature\_fou...

Ah whoops, sorry about that! To be honest I didn't pay attention when I went to go grab the link.

Here's another viable option from a fairly reputable brand for a little more, but less than what DG2s are going for: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Sound-SPDIF-Digital-Stereo/dp/B00F7120TQ/

Literally any cheap USB sound card that has toslink output will work. That one got some air-time in the discord because it's so small it should be easy to use it with a phone/tablet/whatever, but i don't think it's otherwise "special" in any real way.

I just bought 2 of these actually I can sell you the second one …

Otherwise I’ll return it next week ! I really like it when it works It’s a hit or miss in my android dap player it works great .. it doesn’t work on my iPhone or in my iPad even though another user sent me a screenshot of it working on iOS ! So maybe in yours it does

In the mac it works with most of the catalogue of Qobuz and hires files on iTunes or VLC .. I think it can’t handle the highest ones on Qobuzz

It works great in windows , mac and on my android music player . I think it defaults to 48khz So far I’ve been able to burn anything out of the adapter except for Stadium Arcadium from (Remastered) on Qobuz and I don’t know why

https://www.amazon.com/Cubilux-TOSLINK-Thunderbolt-Converter-Compatible/dp/B09QFYNB7Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Other option I use Is the Fiio BTA30 Pro which also has a USB in Optical out but that does more than just being optical out .. you can also send LDAC to it and it can transmit and receive Bluetooth

You can use something like this to get an optical signal out from the Mac. Then a cable like this to connect to the Sony.

What do you mean with converting to FLAC?

a very convoluted approach, i just got the Cubilux USB-C to TOSlink adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09QFYNB7Y/

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but hey if it works

ah missed the second part:

Dunno what pricing is like in the UK but I use most of my machines with a MyVolts RipCord 3V and it works great.

In the US we have a chain called batteries+ and those often have universal adapters available, the store in my town let me bring in my machine and test-fit the plugs before buying a kit, too, which was nice.

For my machines that don't have a DC jack, but this'll also work witht he N510/520, I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/T-HOT-Battery-Eliminator-Supply-Adapter/dp/B0891X52KQ - works great, the machine never detects low battery, sits fine on the table with the bay door open, etc etc.

This might save you a step combined with a Lightning Port-to-USB adapter. I’ve tested it with a USB-C to A adapter on an iPad- Cubilux USB A to TOSLINK Optical... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2DBGKL3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Does Amazon Japan ship to CH? Right now there are new 10 packs for about 30 euro at the current exchange rate...

https://www.amazon.co.jp/Sony-10MDW74NED-Minutes-Nige-Pack/dp/B0007MAJBG/

...and plently of better prices from EU sellers on eBay.

You'd probably be best off getting a universal switchable power supply. Something like this except for the EU market: https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG

Both work fine and in my experience if your levels are set well, sound equivalent. For me, the main advantage to using digital is not having to set the line levels for decent sounding discs.

That said, it sounds like what you want is a sound interface for your computer or phone/tablet with a TOSLINK output. There's many available. I'd say just search on your favorite online store for USB TOSLINK.

The dragonfly DAC is just a different USB sound card, so you'd unplug it and plug in one with TOSLINK output, or use TOSLINK output on a different DAC or the TOSLINK built into your computer, if it has it.

You're correct, minidisc recordings are 16-bit/44.1khz, although most of the machines have sampling rate converters and so hitting that target exactly isn't necessarily needed. I've seen people say they get better results by feeding the MD unit the highest-quality possible sound and then having it re-sample down to 16/44.1.

One thing to be aware of on mobile is that you sometimes get USB sound cards attempting to use the highest possible mode, like 24-bit/96khz and not all minidisc hardware can resample that much. That's the one scenario where older USB sound cards may be beneficial. Although this really varies, I've seen reports of the cubilux ones doing well on iPhones, for example, I don't know if you can control the output mode on iOS/iPadOS or Android, but you can on MacOS/Windows/Linux, so I'd say use those if you want to guarantee hitting that 16/44.1 target.

A USB sound card like this (cheaper ones are available) will give you an optical output for you pc to use with a toslink to mini toslink cable to record digitally.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Audio-Adapter-External-Digital/dp/B002LM0U2S

Welcome to the party! You'll be hooked in no time flat. For that unit, you may want to go to Amazon and grab one of these https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Electric-AA-Converter-Convert/dp/B015T7TERI/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=aa+to+outlet&qid=1663037185&sprefix=AA+to+o%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-18, so you aren't going through batteries all the time! Have a fantastic time!

I'm guessing something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YNRCL2L Snoo? This thing has been helpful as hell as I've been mucking about with MD again, especially for anything that's got an oddball battery or I want to use for multiple recording episodes.

I use both IKEA LADDA 2450 AAs (which are alleged to be re-badged eneloops or eneloop pros) and 2000mah energizer nimhs I got at the local grocery store.

They both work fine. I don't know that I think there's any specific logistical reason to spend on eneloop pros or even IKEA LADDAs. (I haven't done any read-oriented endurance tests but it stands to reason that a 2450mah battery should run most minidisc machines a bit longer than a 2000mah one.

I did a write endurance test with my MZ-NE410 (same machine as the N520D but without the power for the FM remote) using web minidisc and one of the 2000mah energizers. After a couple hours of playback, I got six full disc writes before the machine crashed out due to a dead battery. If this happens, you can just rewrite the disc.

If you are concerned about battery power during disc writes, I recommend a USB to AA Adapter such as this one (the one I bought): https://www.amazon.com/T-HOT-Battery-Eliminator-Supply-Adapter/dp/B0891X52KQ (make sure you pick the version for 1 battery).

This supply works great in my NE410 and N505 as well as the outboard dry-cell holders on my N1, R909, E620 and E77. It should work on any machine that uses back-loaded batteries, so the R500 and R410 will work but, say, the R700 won't.

Fun sidenote: the NiCD battery Sony was still selling at the time is around 600mah, so any modern rechargeable will do fine by these machines.

Yeah, you can run the R50 off an AC adapter or one of the drycell adapters (uses 2 AA batteries). Mine didn't turn on, either, because the LIP-8 cell was dead. You can carefully pry the battery pack open and take out the old cell (it's a 14650) - careful though, the leads are spot soldered to the ends of the cell, so you'll either have to cut or pry them off.

The quick and dirty version is to drop in a 14500 or 14650 and press the contacts that were on the original cell to the ends and do something to hold them in place (tape, wad of something non-conductive in the case, whatever). It's super dodgy that way, though, but it works. It's how I tested my unit.

I have one of these on the way so I have a quasi universal power supply for testing players and such: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YNRCL2L

My plan, however, is to design a part for 3d printing that will fit into the bottom of the original battery pack that lets me more easily just pop in a 14500 or 14650 cell. I've removed the circuit from the pack, too, cause I only plan to try charging the battery in an external charger.

I just got a similar set.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/パナソニック-Panasonic-SJ-MJ59-S-ポータブルMDプレーヤー-シルバー/dp/B00066LHDW

Looks cool, but it really is just a fancy charging dock with led lighting and speakers built in. Zero bass and quite tinny sounding and weak, but actually I don’t think the sound of the portable MD (SJ-MJ59) unit itself is that great, at least in comparison to the mz-n920 I bought at the same time.

The perfect machine https://www.amazon.com/Brother-ScanNCut-SDX125EGY-Electronic-Stickers/dp/B08D6YK8BX/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=die+cut+sticker+machine&qid=1657127798&sr=8-2

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Possible to find cheaper.

They look similar to what Amazon UK had so i think it would work but i guess you can return it if it doesn't work on your unit since it does say it should work for your model.

For Amazon and for the manufacturers website, it's myVolts.com

I have almost the same (different brand though, Elegiant) and it's fine too, but add its mess of wire and battery to handle when on the move.
And discovered on reddit another very tiny one, called Hagibis BT transmetter/receiver, almost same price, worth a look I think (depends on the battery duration for each one use).

Agreed, for walking around, you probably will have some external noise anyway, so BT is OK, as long as it's not cutting out. (Had that issue with a pair of my BT headphones.

Using the UGreen BT: https://smile.amazon.com/UGREEN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Nintendo-Headphones/dp/B082H7NWNR/

The problem you've got is that the answer to this is going to be subjective.

The one I've got is okay enough to use for me while I'm walking around, but I'd use a cable or use my deck if I were going to listen to music critically.

This is the one I bought: Trond: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TROND-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B01B4W40VC

It does transmit (for headphones) and recieve (for the car), but sound quality is good enough for me.

Something like this. Just make sure you flip the plug the right way so the shield is negative. https://www.amazon.com/Excelity-AC-DC-Charger-Power-Adapter/dp/B07PGGLRYR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2M5TFUU84NHI3&keywords=5v+1a+power+supply&qid=1654412445&sprefix=5v%2Caps%2C509&sr=8-3

You guys need to check other places, here is one on Amazon for 19 that is not manual. Included a head, and laser cleaner, and fluid for the head cleaner.

Wet/Dry MD Mini Disc Cleaning Kit with Head and Lens Cleaner MD-107 MD-CL MD8HCL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T49B446/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_1289XVZQTEA0E6P2YAD3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use for creating labels for the discs themselves - I cover the whole of the disc not just the rectangle area that is designed for the label

20 Sheets White Waterproof A4 VINYL Matt Self Adhesive Sticker Quality INKJET Printable https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N25GZ1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KZV6VF78P8B9WDWW4K6B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q4WQ7XW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_43F5FHVRBY5C9XQKQD8E

Plug the headphone jack on the sharp into the line-in on the usb sound card and use audacity to record the audio. If your mac is before 2010 then it'll probably have line-in already.

The only way to do it over usb is by buying a specific Sony MD player for about a grand or more.

ARCELI 5 Pcs MP1584EN Ultra Petit... https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B07MY2XP21?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share You can also use a regular usb plug, and you'll be able to use any usb port or charger. You'll need a dc connector that fits in the Recorder though. You can also try some universal chargers, with 3v output znd check it has the right plug

I had a similar issue with one of my MZ-R50 units.

In my case, I did a clean up on the ribbon connector pins and the display came back up.

However after not using the unit for a while, it went blank again, though you can see it faintly when viewed at an angle. I kept using the unit and the display came back on its own.

However, if that wouldn't have happened, I would have bought this pen and redo the ribbon contacts to see if a better, enhanced conductive inked connection works better.

https://www.amazon.com/CircuitWriter-Conductive-Ink-silver-based-4g/dp/B00B88B9KI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=conductive+ink+pen&qid=1650929372&sr=8-4

Try it out and please DO report back. If it works, I think it will help so many people.

American here. I use one of these el cheapo variable voltage power supplies. Works perfectly fine. The UK version of this should work OK for you too.

Of course, this should not remain a secret :D

I bought a couple of cases via Amazon which are especially suitable for MiniDiscs. Sadly I only have a link for the german Amazon marketplace https://www.amazon.de/-/en/MiniDisc-MiniDisk-Cassette-Wallet-Hochklar/dp/B00X2KBLU8 but you can also find them on Aliexpress.

The cover in the sleeve has the following dimensions: 6,80 cm x 7,50 cm on 300 DPI. The cover on the MiniDisc has the dimensions 3,80 cm x 5,40 cm on 300 DPI.

The printouts I have made through a local print shop, you can of course also do this through your printer at home, but I find unfortunately "normal" printers do not create the details so well.

Price-wise I was at the printouts about 3.00 €. I used the option to cut out the covers myself, for this I have a paper cutter - costs about 10,00€.

About the label on the MiniDisc:

Here I can give you the tip on minidisc.wiki to look under https://www.minidisc.wiki/resources/labels there are very many good descriptions and also a link to a generator for labels.

I hope I have written it understandably, English is not my mother tongue.

Just an adjustable voltage power supply

SHNITPWR 3V ~ 24V 3A 72W Power Supply Adjustable DC 3V 5V 6V 9V 12V 15V 16V 18V 19V 20V 24V Variable Universal AC/DC Adapter 100V-240V AC to DC Converter with 14 Tips 5.5x2.5mm 4.0x1.7mm 3.5x1.35mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BL4QMGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FFEH5BMG2VHKRV7GNC5C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

>MDS-JE530

If you're using this to record you would be looking for a line-IN port on the deck. Most decks will use RCA for line-in meaning you'd need a 3.5mm to RCA cable such as this.

I'm not up on macs but try to set your laptop to line-out mode instead of amplified headphone, the results should be best that way. Try flipping through the recording section of your decks user manual too.

Totally cool... Here is a link to the post of the template

https://www.reddit.com/r/minidisc/comments/gx69cg/minidisc_label_template_i_spent_far_too_long/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

Here is the label paper

Printable Vinyl Sticker Paper - Glossy White - Premium Waterproof Vinyl Sticker Paper for Inkjet Printer and Laser Printer - Decal Sheets Self-Adhesive Label Paper - 8.5"X11"(15 Sheets) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0936CGHYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TQS0PYRQZV46EAT0CY57?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I use a rounded corner cutter, and it looks nice.

I got the Sunstar Kadomaru Pro for about $13. It goes down to a 3mm radius corner.

I just picked up a R30 as well!

Running it on this battery:

Replacement Battery for Sony... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093GV82DV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Play works great, but record is dead. Checked the record head and cable, looks and ohms out fine, but just won’t record. Oh well, it’s a good player.

So for the MDS-JE480, I searched its reference on ebay and found some listings in UK. It was actually cheaper to buy one in UK than in France. I wasn't sure of the exact dimensions so I relied on the different listings and picked the cheapest.

Link here: https://www.ebay.fr/itm/194744734027

I also got another set of belts (large number of belts) for dirty cheap on amazon, and could repair my mini bookshelf system (PMC-MD55) and I now have quite many spares to fix the CDP-XE370 if ever needed, and my first mini bookshelf system ever (non MD though, I got it during my school years) which is stored at my parents'.

Link here: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B077SF32YS

Really? Is this better? Ikee Design Wall Mounted Wooden Mountable 12 Compartments Holder Display Shelf, Wood Collection Wall Display Shadow Box Rack, 15.38”W x 3 ”D x 14.13”H, Brown Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PCKB6F9/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_MSH7D1YDQKD47VK61KNG

To record, it's better to have external power supply. I made my own usb 5v to sony 3v plug with this adapter : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07MY2XP21

That way, I can use any usb port as a power source for my Sony (and Aiwa) MD units.

Universal DC converters do not all have the correct size plug for the Sonys. In my case, I reused some broken original sony dc power supply and some Samsung BT headphones charger which happened to have the correct plug.

When my CD-R use waned, I got my 1st MP3 Player, a Creative Nomad Jukebox with 6GB of storage. That device had the exact size and form as a....portable CD player, lol. Only difference: I didn't have to lug the extra CD's with me

I've been looking something that would go along with my Napa cases and came upon this display shelf.

Note the sleeves are a tight fit so they essentially act as slot holders for your discs like a Napa case. I don't mind this, but for people with larger fingers it may be difficult to get a pinch grip on the discs to pull them out.

The only way you can copy music FROM MD to Computer is using a MZ-RH1. It's one of the last generation Hi-MD players. From your recorder you can only copy using the analog hole. You will have to get a sound card that takes in analog audio and then converts it to digital. I have seen people have good results with this device. PM me if you are willing to mail the discs. I can pull out the digital copy for you.

Another tip for that model for those long recording sessions is to use a USB battery buck to power it. Like this (not a product endorsement) https://www.amazon.com/T-HOT-Battery-Eliminator-Supply-Adapter/dp/B0891X52KQ/ref=sr_1_9?crid=39AD6GNZXZ0E7&keywords=aa%2Bbattery%2Beliminator&qid=1646277657&sprefix=aa%2Bbattery%2Beliminator%2Caps%2C1062&sr=8-9&th=1

I think you are looking for something like on the link below. It has an optical in and out and it is a Bluetooth receiver and transmitter based on BT5.0 supporting AptX LL, aptX and SBC.

https://www.amazon.com/TROND-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B01N9PI9T6?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp

Sound quality should be just fine using an aux cable.

You’ll want to make sure the output isn’t peaking. When recording, check the little meter on the MD recorder. Make sure it isn’t going all the way to the top bar- if it is, then the source is too loud and you’ll need to lower the volume on the source.

You can also lower the input levels too, but you’ll need to refer to the manual on how to do that.

If your CD player has an optical-out then all you need is an optical cable with a mini-optical adapter on one end and a full size on the other.

Otherwise you’ll want to use an RCA splitter.. You’ll probably get better results from the CD player because it’s a line-out, versus a headphone Jack output.

If you want to record via optical on your computer, you can get a more modern usb DAC. I personally use this one and I’ve had good results with it.

I think this is the same Organizer bag

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TDJGR34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's what I got.

>Behringer UCA202

I wasn't sure about that one since it was less than $10. So I bought this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TDJGR34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since I won't be able to use it until this weekend, I'll give you an update then.

Replacement PSP Charger Cable Power Cord for Charging Sony PSP 1000 2000 3000 Series (PSP-1001, 2001, 3001) and E-1000 USB Charging Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KSJ3BD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3Z3XMN8YEDWN3EGT4FP5

That's the point I guess, he use a usb to DC cable with the same plug as the one for the PSP. This allow him to use any power source (powerbank, pc usb port, phone wall charger, etc...)

Maybe something like this minus the mini usb data plug.

https://www.amazon.fr/MagiDeal-Donn%C3%A9es-Recharge-C%C3%A2ble-Chargeur/dp/B01IERDFGQ

Here’s a link to an image for Windows XP.

Here’s the link for Virtual Box

I have an earlier post here for SonicStage if you need it.

Install VirtualBox first and then add the Windows XP virtual machine using the iso file. And then run Windows XP and load SonicStage. Let me know if you need anything further.

A tiny 4 channel mixer

>https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Nintendo-Headphones/dp/B082H7NWNR

I tried to put it in on my phone, but for some reason the mobile app only allowed me to upload the picture with a title.

OP, don’t use this charger with NI-MH batteries. Ni-CAD is a completely different formulation and you could end up damaging your Ni-MH batteries.

You need to get a NiMH charger.

I personally use this one - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y5ZB8Z5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6T3GNFWX6NJR4X3KVQ14 - bonus, it works with rechargeable AA, AAA and C batteries too

The display on that charger will tell you if it’s fully charged.

Alternatively, you could just charge the battery in-device. Put the battery in to your MD player, plug it in the wall with the proper adapter, and press “stop”. Battery should start charging.

Yeah, go on to Amazon and check out their gumstick chargers. Make sure it’s compatible with Ni-MH and you’re good to go.

Something like this will work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4NS31O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QG0WG85GFRAMG9DNXT7R

Alternatively you could just buy a multi voltage wall adapter for the R900, set the voltage accordingly and use that to charge your batteries

If that's the case, you guys must be getting players for cheap.

2 for $20: https://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Battery-1-528-231-11-WM-RX707-WM-FX675/dp/B01LNZMYN6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2P747VUBYLY3T&keywords=gumstick+battery&qid=1639404968&sprefix=gumstic%2Caps%2C683&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A3IZHOEADOGAP0&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFGRlFWSDhJWUZXMzUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4MjgwMDkyRVRTR1M2MVdWWVQxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5MDcwMDRHVVpJWlEzSUozTDkmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl You may have to remove the shrink wrap coating, though

Working player: $100 or so on eBay, and quick to rise.

Busted player: $80 or so on eBay. Bid wars often inflate the price to near-mint equivalent prices.

Get an MDLP recorder that has mic input with plug in power, then just buy a microphone. That will be much cheaper and much easier to find than an MZ-B10 or B100.

The N-505 or N-707 are good choices. However, ANY MDLP recorder with mic inputs will work here.

For microphone, this would be the best one to get. But it’s kinda expensive- if it’s outside of your price range, I’d recommend this one. Note that the second one is mono, while the first is stereo.

Record your voice recordings in mono-SP mode if you’re using a mono microphone. Otherwise you’ll end up with a stereo recording that’s only on one side which is awkward

If you’re using a stereo mic, you can record LP4. Same for audiobooks.

On top of buying used blanks on eBay / Japanese auction sites, you can also buy brand new MD blanks on Japanese Amazon here.

Make sure it says “shipped by Amazon” and you’re good to go.

Sonys MDW80T is the only MD blank still being produced, although the previous generation (MDW80BC) can also be had in bulk very easily.

You should never pay more than what a brand new minidisc costs shipped, per disc. In the US that’s about $5 /disc.

Not sure if it's a power issue but it's a good idea to have a power supply for recording. This one has the tip for your unit.

Someone here on the forums gave me this link a while back. I hope it's still good.

amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B00X2KBLIK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3EVFBQFPNBBDP&th=1

I got some like this that were terrible. Then I found this one on Amazon that actually sounds good:

Portable Speaker, Leadsound Crystal 3W 27mm 8Ω Mini Wireless Speaker with 3.5mm Aux Audio Jack Plug in Clear Bass Micro USB Port Audio Dock for Smart Phone, for Pad, Computer (Black) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HB18IZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J3NYHC2PF5ETSPEV9WNG

1.)check your power cable and/or battery and make sure your cable isn’t loose and/or you start NetMD with a FULL battery.

2.)source a new mini-USB cable. It’s possible you’re using a USB 1.1 cable, which won’t have the necessary bandwidth for NetMD. Look at the full size connector end of the cable- if it’s white, it’s 1.1. Black is 2.0, blue is 3.x.

I personally use this cable with no problems - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0GI68M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VSTD9EMF78HNYQMQN9G7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

3.)use a USB 2.0 port. USB 3 ports can sometimes have trouble with backwards compatibility.

I originally created a printable page (using pixlr.com) from one of the templates I found on this subreddit, but when printed they came out too small so I had to do a little resizing on the page. I print onto these adhesive papers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000093L1J and cut them out to shape (e.g. a sort of blocky C-shape so that it doesn't cover the sliding tab on the discs themselves). I will sometimes cut the piece that is missing out and cover the sliding tab too.

I agree, mini-mold was the first thing I thought of too, especially if some discs are working okay and others are not (and the ones that DO have errors have errors in different places).

/u/Daz100001, slide open the door and spin the disc around. If you find white spots or mold in your discs, throw them away. They're no longer any good. Same deal if you find any red / orange spots on discs - that's disc rot, a manufacturing defect that results in the layers of the disc separating. I've never heard of disc rot occurring on MDs but you never know.

And make sure you give your recorders a good, deep cleaning! The mold can spread to other discs through players/recorders.

Finally - if you have the means to do so, try and get yourself some fresh discs. Sony still manufactures MDW80T blanks which can be found here -> https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/dp/B06XRCKV11/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mdw80t&qid=1638044292&sr=8-1 - make sure the order says 'fulfilled by amazon' (Japanese sellers don't like shipping internationally so you've gotta make sure Amazon does it) and you're good.

Alternatively, you can look up "MDW80T" or "MDW80BC" (the previous gen of blanks by Sony which can still be found brand new) on ebay or your favorite auction site and get them that way.

I have found a PTFE-based grease (same base as EM-30L but with teflon rather than lithium), the closest thing I could find so far: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Gear-Flon-Performance-Grease-Teflon/dp/B00UI0AS40

nice! An enternal install?

sounds cool. I'm just using one of these rn for a simple solution for when I want BT

blue tooth transmitter

I have one of these. But I usually carry around a slim, standard toslink cable with adapters. I find I get more use out of it.

Phillips has an optical cable that has 2 mini adapters for both ends. Not sure if you’re in the US, but I bought mine at my local Target.

Here’s an Amazon link - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4Z9LCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E2H4ADR8J50DE2EAKS31?psc=1

Note that I’m not sure if the Amazon version has the mini adapters or not, but I know the one they sell at Target does.

Something like this little guy will have a built-in ADC, but most likely I'll use the one on the microcontroller I settle on for the final build

if you already have gumsticks then you can use practically any universal charger. i use this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B088K83YWP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it's not the best but it does the job. if you got cheaper batteries, they usually have too much casing and you have to angle the battery to make sure there is contact on the anode and cathode.

Well at least in germany it‘s „minidisc jewelcase“: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00X2KBLIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_2Y9RC6THF4GQAX61WAZB

Perhaps the seller does not sell on amazon in your country? But as I saw they also sell these on ebay.

I got these to replace the gumstick battery in my MZ-E7W.

HQRP 2-Pack Gumstick Battery... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNZMYN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I also got a Nitecore D2 charger to charge them, as I'm not sure my unit was able to charge these properly.

So far I've only bought 2 brand new Sony premium 74 from here: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B00009P6DM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_CBA7H5W91VP4BZZQ48WA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And a 6x stock of used tdk 80 from eBay for ~30€ but your mileage may vary... Hunt for bidding my friend!

I sometimes use a Hagibis Bluetooth 5.0: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless-Headphone/dp/B07MTFRKQM when doing bluetooth.

Too bad, in that case maybe consider a device like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lenink-Battery-Eliminator-Supply-Replace/dp/B07ZGF6BMM there are cheaper ones to be sure but this one actually looks like okay quality

I have a N707 and I am using this universal power supply and it works perfectly: SHNITPWR 30W Universal Power Supply 3V 4.5V 5V 6V 7.5V 9V 12V Adjustable Variable AC/DC Adapter with 5V 2.1A USB Port, 100V-240V AC to DC 3V~12V Converter 0.5A 1A 1.2A 1.5A 2A 2.5A Max with 14 Tips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BL5Y9ZM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2K2NKD12S4WGCQ1YY6GY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Quite agree - the clearer picture shows the oxidisation is still there.

I've seen some people suggest this tape for that contact: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jones-Tones-Foil-Tape-Brass/dp/B001684AKQ (UK Amazon link)

Let us know how it goes!