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I use this power strip and it works great!
It has four outlets that are timed (the same time for all four) and four that aren't. So I use the timed ones for my Jungle Dawn and UVB light, and the always on ones for my Herpstat and MistKing system (and some other household lamps that are near the frog tank).
Smart plugs that you can program are also a popular choice.
85F is considered by most to be a generally safe upper limit.
> Planning on switching to a smaller heating pad for the summer.
Rather than a smaller heating pad (and probably for about the same price) I would highly recommend a cheap thermostat as a safety feature.
I use both overhead heat (also on a thermostat) and heat mats on the side, and I have my mats set to turn off once the ambient temperature of the cool side gets too warm. So far it's worked great on warmer days when the ambient room temperature is enough, and the extra heat isn't needed.
Hi! Had to purchase a few since there's a lot of false advertisement for UVB lights, ended up going with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B39QG1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (got the long one to cover other frogs' enclosures as well). My vet said it's pretty essential even though it's not highly advertised or noted in general frog care forums. So far she's stable and doing well but I'm doing xrays every couple months to really see progress. She improved about 20% since last time but she is also receiving extra calcium solution still, so I think it's a combination of factors. Slow but steady progress. They didn't specify any hard she would receive as an albino pacman but they did say to ensure there is a good amount of covered area she can use when wanting to get out of the light. So glad you picked that little guy up! Best of luck and I'm happy to ask my vet anything for you :)
68 is too cold; having a thermostat hooked up to your heating pad would help with that! (shouldn't go below 77).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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heat wise it shouldn't go above 84/85; maybe a fan like another user suggested??
You do want coconut but you want the fiber, not the chunks! This way they can burrow easily and it could be dangerous if they swallow that; less so with the fiber.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Thermometer-774-Temperature-Accessories/dp/B0B71HFH9K/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3DR4933O2RRTE&keywords=laser+thermometer+gun&qid=1670501408&sprefix=%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-4 is this one ok I’m on a budget so I can’t get the expensive ones
thank you again for helping :) i love my lil guy so much so i always want the best for him. what do you think of this bulb, and this dome? i would also get a timer to make sure its on for 8 hours, as i am still in school and might not be able to do it manually. would i have to attach the dome to a bigger fixture? where i would be putting it would be right above his half log/cave and the substrate is about 4 1/2 inches tall. i would be putting his heat lamp next to it, so pretty much in the middle of the top of the tank.
100W would be way too hot if you're working with height from a 20 gallon long or anything similar. I personally use a 50W for the hot side for my dude, and it's always smart to use them with a dimmable fixture to be able to control and adjust the output to exactly what you need (through trial and error with a thermometer heat gun of course)
Maybe this is called something else in your country - this is what I mean by egg crate - basically a plastic grid, so it is non absorbent and doesn't need to be replaced. It just acts as a frame for the mesh.
Sorry for the late reply, but would something like https://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Body-Hand-Super-Warmers/dp/B00KDHJBAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=1LYNJHN0MIZCG&keywords=hand+warmers+large&qid=1665022456&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjU3IiwicXNhIjoiMy4yMSIsInFzcCI6IjMuMDQifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=hand+warmers... work, or should I look elsewhere?
Does he have constant access to water? Let him eat until he decides he’s done. Try these https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Hikari-Packman-Frog-Attack/dp/B01LYVV8MG?pd_rd_w=HRE63&content-id=amzn1.sym.99d2f5bb-29d9-4f60-b07e-f97fafe39bec&pf_rd_p=99d2f5bb-29d9-4f60-b07e-f97fafe39bec&pf_rd_r=V3V3G027Y8F9KWXXY1RZ&pd_rd_wg=4yrSO&a...
That bulb you linked is the 5.0 - you'll want the 10.0! The 5 is too weak. You'll need a "deep" dome specifically to be able to fit the bulb without it sticking out the end - like this ZooMed one or this Fluker's one.
More certainty is always good! I also was not aware of the zilla quality concerns, so thanks for the heads up there.
Just as a double check:
I'm Guessing this bulb: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-25156-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RI8TK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1A6YFY55UPN5G&keywords=zoo+med+reptisun+13w&qid=1657236628&sprefix=zoomed+reptisun+13w%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-3
With this fixture? (Zoo Med Mini Deep Dome Lamp Fixture with 5.5-Inch Dome, Black) : https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Fixture-5-5-Inch-Black/dp/B002OVDPJQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=XZEQVVP4AOEL&keywords=zoo+med+deep+dome+lamp+fixture&qid=1657237231&sprefix=zoo+med+deep+dome+lamp+fixture%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-5
Or do I need a deeper (8.5) inch dome? If its these two, I should be able to swing down to my local store tomorrow and grab these, pretty sure I've seen em there.
Np- sorry I had to step out for some errands.
My froggo is currently in a 12inch tall exoterra. I'm using this Zilla Fixture:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PXEWHQI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
with this bulb:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016RWSVP0?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (its the long tropical version, not the desert)
its currently about 8 inches from the surface of the substrate, tucked next to the heat source for that pool of sunlight vibe. The fixture did come with little attachable stilts to raise the fixture up if needed as well. This should be workable, but advice is always welcome!
Shelf is from Amazon! Fits this size enclosure perfect! I plan to get another Pac-Man for the bottom one, but it currently houses my milksnake that’s super small!
shelf is from Amazon!! It’s the perfect fit for this size enclosure! I plan to get another Pac-Man for the bottom enclosure!
I have two of these, plus two govee thermometers and so far they’ve proven reliable and accurate. BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Breeding Incubation Greenhouse, 40-108°F, 8.3A 1000W ETL Listed (take note to capitalize BN-LINK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_006ZC8535NX758A72QF0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I tried a few different lights and I couldn’t keep the substrate from drying out despite me spraying multiple times a day until I switched to a CHE.
Seconded about the humidity possibly being too low and the dish being to small. Plus the raised walls might make it tough for her to get out easily once she’s in. I personally like ones with a little ramp so it’s easy to toddle in and out of like this one
Maybe stronger heating pads. I’ve found that sometimes the ones from petco etc can be a bit weak for heating the side of the tank (but the maybe I’ve just had bad luck).
I like this one since it had a great temp control switch and it’s decently warm
These ones are also great, can get quite warm and have a nice control switch. They don’t have adhesive though so they need to be secured with tape to be put on the side of the tank. I currently have one of each type on the sides of my pacs tank and it works well.
I’m sure you can. I have 2 separate thermostats so the big keeps the whole tank at 81 and the small one is set for 84. Seems to keep most of the enclosure around 83. This is the thermostat I use.
Okay sorry the honey didn’t hyperlink? Kiva Raw Manuka Honey, Certified UMF 5+ | MGO 83+ | 100% Pure Genuine New Zealand (8.8 oz/250g Bottle) | Non-GMO | No Antibiotics | Traceable | UMF & MGO Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MF3WBG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_8B9YZ5ZJSG0H09HNNKB3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And just to be ABSOLUTELY sure -again, I apologize- is this what you mean?
Because there was one of the long models as well, and I want to make sure I understand what you mean.
would a bulb like this be better for heat? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YS3H0I/ref=sw_img_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
Unless some vastly overqualified mycologist comes in after me and says the mushroom's safe, I would recommend either giving that piece of bark a very heavy washing with a frog-safe disinfectant like diluted chlorhexidine, or what's probably smarter, just toss it and get a new piece of bark. Better safe than sorry, you don't wanna chance it in case it's bad for the frog.
I use a fogger, and it works great! I’ve had it for about a month, and it is still going strong. Here’s a link to the one I have:
The natural range for your species of Pacman frog is the Gran Chaco in central South America. You can look up the weather for a city there like Córdoba, Argentina to see that it's plenty warm most of the year. https://weatherspark.com/y/28147/Average-Weather-in-C%C3%B3rdoba-Argentina-Year-Round
Like all other captive herps, Pacman frogs should be given a gradient from warm to cool across their tanks so they can choose what temperature to experience - not just be forced to be cold or warm all the time.
Can you talk to him about this info?
If he's concerned about bugs (which are easy to see in dirt if you just keep an eye on them), you can feed them in a separate tank. It doesn't change the fact that burrowing is what they're built for and they need substrate to thrive.
I generally avoid the heat lamps on all my terrestrial frogs because they can dry out the tank substrate and ambient humidity much faster than a stick on heater, especially in a small 10 gallon. They can also cause overheating much faster. You definitely can use one, but it will mean that the humidity will be tougher to maintain and you will have to make sure that the "hot spot" directly below the lamp isn't causing any problems (using a thermal switch when using a heat lamp is a very good idea as well because they heat up so much so quickly, not to mention the power consumption). Below is the link to the tank heater/thermal switch combo I personally use for some of my frogs, I've had good luck with it overall.
However, with all that being said, if you have the time and a reliable thermostat/hydrometer you can deal with it all just fine manually by turning the lamp on and off as needed and misting the tank as needed with reptile safe water (i;e treated with a dechlorinator like ReptiSafe).
Aiicioo Under Tank Heater Thermostat - Reptile Heating Pad with Temperature Control Reptile Heat Mat for Combo Set for Hermit Crab Lizard Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WC83SQZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_BETT797TAVWH2PKBF9VF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Something like this is what you use? Bulbmaster 45R20/FL 45 Watts R20 Reflector Indoor Flood Light Bulbs Medium E26 Base 45W for Spotlight Bulbs 130 Volts Frosted Flood Lights 330 Lumens 6 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081J5FDG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8NVVNM9AG9XQ51SKVD17?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 is this on a dimmer also or just regular switch
The dirt will not have bugs in it if you buy condensed coconut fiber substrate onlinehere’s a link to some the need to burrow, that’s literally all that Pac-Mans do. Eat and sit under the dirt. Pac-Man frogs are technically tropical frogs, and they live an a warm humid environment, meaning you need heating
Chewy doesnt, but I found one on Amazon that you could get! here it is
You need a shallow dish for your frogs to be able to sit in, they drink through their skin so they need a water dish. They also need about 70%-80% humidity, so you can most the enclosure with a spray bottle. Another thing no one else has mentioned is getting a water dechlorinator, which is cheap, and lasts a long time. here’s the link to one on Amazon but you should be able to find it at a pet store. If you can’t get that right away, I think that’s okay because there are way more pressing matters you need to attend to first
Manual dimmers you can get on Amazon, at hardware stores, etc. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=25BX6U862EKO8&keywords=dimmer+plug&qid=1637707536&sprefix=dimmer+plug%2Caps%2C233&sr=8-3
Dimming thermostats are pricier. I have a Herpstat and they're fantastic! I ordered it online.
I use an automatic timer. One like this does the job perfectly fine
Any lamp fixture with a ceramic base and a capacity more than 60 Watts will work - I use one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-Lamp-Switch-Reptiles/dp/B0002DHOE0
I'd encourage you to use a heat lamp rather than a CHE during the day though! CHEs work fine at night if your room temps get below 65F and you need it, but lamps are more ideal during the day. See this post I made earlier for more info! https://www.reddit.com/r/pacmanfrog/comments/q1ir9g/pdf_article_link_next_level_heating_why_infrared
It's very normal for them not to eat for several days or even weeks when they're new. Just make sure to not disturb them very much (no more than one feeding attempt per day or every other day) and to try a wide variety of feeders.
Hello again! I went through the sticky info you compiled. Is the one in your setup the T5 with daisy chaining the lights? I really like it! Takes way less space and you have the two there. The hood I have is like this but slightly longer: exo-terra hood And that'll be on top of the 12" height 10 gallon tank (also looking into the bigger tanks!)
I do the same. I got a styrofoam bait box, added damp shredded newspaper to the soil they came in, corn meal, and an apple slice. They are thriving and getting huuuuge. I did silicone one side shut, because I'm too clumsy to keep both sides unattached. Every few days I open it for a few minutes to let air in, then flip it over when I put it back in the fridge.
If the lamp will be 7-8 inches above the frog on top of a screen lid, you can use this one in that dome: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-25156-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RI8TK
If the lamp will be 9-10 inches above the frog on top of a screen, you can use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSun-Compact-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RHTYU
Yeah those should work! For the heat lamp you could also go with something like this that has a dimmer switch built in https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=flukers+dimminy+dome&qid=1625428412&sr=8-8
A dual fixture or a dimmer? I don't use dual bulbs so I don't know about those. If you want a dimming thermostat, Herpstats are great. If you want a manual dimming switch, something like this would work.
I would get one of the dimmable ones and one of the Fluker's deep domes - I'm not sure the UVB will fit in the mini one you linked earlier. Here's the deep dome - but don't buy it on Amazon lol, the price is crazy! I got one at Petco for way cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Reptile-10-Inch-Fluker-Labs/dp/B00PGOS53O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=flukers+deep+dome&qid=1625428888&sr=8-4
I'm a little late to reply, sorry. I use this one for uvb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYDE66K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_BEMS7SHR08120RK3S3BX
I use a side of the tank heater for my pacman bc I keep my apartment above 75F. But I use Zoo Med bulbs for my Bearded Dragon too with a Flukers Dome Light for heat.
I think a 50w CHE would definitely do the trick if your apartment is already in the mid to high 70's. If you're looking for a thermostat these would be my suggestions (I have 4 of each of these in-use at the moment and have no complaints about either.):
More expensive with better features - You can custom set your differential, set a nighttime drop, etc, etc. (My only complaint is it doesn't come with a suction cup to mount the probe in case you don't have an extra one on hand.)
You're definitely right about the humidity, so you might need to spray a little more often, but your guy (nice looking frog, btw) is a Cranwelli, and they're probably the most tolerant of drier conditions.
Also, I don't have any data to back this up, but personally in my experience I would say that hitting the right temperature range is more important than the right humidity. If the substrate is moist and there's enough of it so they can burrow, and they have access to water, then they can always stay hydrated even if the humidity is less than ideal. But if the temperature doesn't get hot enough on the warm side....... then there's nothing they can really do on their own to address that.
Good luck!
This one has been pretty sick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYXX9L3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Q30NC9SAD83NA3XWCCT2
I have it connected to a 100w ceramic bulb, but if you're putting it directly on the screen top a 60 would be fine. It keeps things at a nice 78-82.
I'm not sure what might be available in Canada, but this kind of thing is what I mean so you can look for it! I'd start with the lowest wattage and see how that does. You'll need to get a lamp fixture for it as well if you don't already have one. I use an Inkbird thermostat for my heating pads, which I also got on Amazon. This is an on-off thermostat though, so it might make your bulb not last as long, but proper dimming thermostats are very expensive.
yea i hated it so much i ended up just buying a corner one off amazon it was on sale for like 6$ i think last week. Fluker's Food/Water Reptile Corner Bowl, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YFX9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_xSaVFb0P4Z986
You can't use anything specifically for fish, as it will remove their protective slime.
You can use this as well: https://www.amazon.com/TetraFauna-AquaSafe-Conditioner-Reptiles-Amphibians/dp/B003JVR1OA