Here is the one on shutterstock: https://www.shutterstock.com/da/image-photo/oriental-smallclawed-otter-amblonyx-cinereus-5-67360066?src=y_czdUWWulhqltFrFOpzQA-1-12
Here is the one on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/dk-en/listing/550932274/otter-prints-animal-wall-art-woodland?ref=related-8
I think this (https://www.flickr.com/photos/100187030@N07/13767871323/in/set-72157643780318585) is one of the best photos I've ever seen. I love it.
How do you like the 6D? Does the wireless stuff actually work? That's gonna be my next camera upgrade I think.
Any advice on how to get the most out of a single flash? I got this kit and have been learning through trial and error.
Strobist® Compact OCF Jump... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074ZSDZFC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
ISO 100 F/32 1/6 Gelled Flash
Ann Arbor Shutterbug Meetup, if you are in the area join us sometime.
Rejection reasons (2)
Noise / Film Grain : Content contains chrominance noise, luminance noise, sharpening noise, or film grain that detracts from the main subject.
Visible Trademark: Content contains visible brand names or logos.
I've tried a couple of times now to do long star trail exposure shots like this one, and so far the foreground subject has been blurry.
I've got the aperture wide open, but the focus was set to infinity - and the Stonehenge should have been far enough away to be sharp. When I trip the shutter, I put my hand in front of the lens (but not touching it), trip the shutter lock, tuck the remote away (usually in the head of the tripod) and then move my hand - so it's probably not shutter shake. The tripod is solid, the ground is firm and doesn't see any nearby foot traffic - the wind maybe? It wasn't particularly windy that night.
This one suffered the same problem: https://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyjcase/9485677701
Thing is, I do get them to turn out occasionally: https://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyjcase/8919924751
So, best guess what's up? What did I get right the one time that I didn't the others?
I though it was a nice idea to take some photos of the lake//lake parts, so I found this one spot with a tree which was halfway submerged into the water!
(there are more photos,, I might post them on the upcoming days)
Photos were taken on,, Huawei mate 20 ; by Judy Date of pictures taken :: 8/28/20 Link to my post on amino ;; http://aminoapps.com/p/n4413h
Feel free to make criticism! I'll be happy to take it and improve my skills!
! Some of the lake parts were trashed,, please pick up your trash and throw it into trash Binns near your location, keep the nature and its beauty clean and prevent animals from eating and suffocating on it!
Apologies for my bad English-
I like the light atmosphere and the roundness/radial effect, thats pretty cool.
To me, what seems a little off, is the very shallow depth of field and the point of focus.
Examples: If the street's texture is the point of focus, why not widen the depth of field in the foreground or otherwise emphasize the background.
Right now I'm thinking: Why is this tiny portion of the street so important that I have to squint my eyes, when there's a lot more going on in the photo?
Im sorry if the negative part of the feedback (as so often) takes up so much space, it's just harder to explain.
The tutorial for color toning is here: https://www.gimp.org/tutorials/Sepia_Toning/ I didn't invert the colors in step 7 since I'm changing the color of the ambient light. Note that you get two layers when you do toning this way.
I ended up with five layers. Top is the sky, next two are the highlights (yellow), bottom two are shadows (blue). Only the hue of the color you tone with gets used. Saturation is controlled by the monochrome image.
In my opinion, the technically good picture is too dark and does not quite correspond to reality. It also has hardly any drawing or structure in the shadows. The composition doesn't seem optimal to me either. It has too much forest, and the important elements forest, city and square are uneven and not very elegantly distributed throughout the whole picture. The square at the bottom left has a clearly large area, but appears more implied than part of the picture.
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Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator
This is going to be a challenge, but... I have this old, faded, cracked photo of my uncle and Fidel Castro. It's from 1958 I think. I had the diapositive digitized a couple of years ago after carefully cleaning it and putting it in a high-resolution Nikon diapositive scanner. In other words, the raw file is as good as it gets, but the photo is still not great. Anything you could do with this would be much appreciated!
Link to .tif file: https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D8621854_98399290_04661
Thank you for your great feedback! Adding film grain and utilizing actual headlights is a great idea. A lot of my work involves amalgamating tropes of yesteryear with a contemporary aesthetic (like this modern, photographic take on vintage advertising: https://www.behance.net/gallery/8176143/RE-DESIGN-A-Portfolio-of-Quondam-Flack), but I think trying to emulate the actual mien of past art forms would be great practice for me and might be better received or understood by audiences. I'll definitely have to dabble in form over concept. Thanks again for your valuable critique!
It was an off center light. For the AD200, they have a new round head monolight head that for some stupid reason they are calling the "ring flash".
https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Natural-Effects-Godox-AD200-Portable/dp/B07GDJJPQK?
It isn't a real ring flash as we are used to calling it, but that is what they want to name it. But it was single flash, off to his back just a bit off center, no modifier. And yeah his face is slightly darker, He was flush faced after just picking her up and spinning her, so I toned him to be less red and more regular skin tone. But I might lighten him up a bit and see how I like it...
Great starter lens, will give you some bokeh to play with without the crazy price tag. 35 is also a great focal length. Closest you will get on a crop us this 24 (38 ish with the crop factor)