This one has two 45cm poles currently (they insert to each other) and I have a third for when it gets taller.
This is the 2-pack I ordered: XLYS 17.7 Inches Coir Totem Pole- Coir Moss Totem Pole Coir Moss Stick for Plant Support Extension, Climbing Indoor Plants, Creepers https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08518N33L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I5IaGbZ8S05Z0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the plant Velcro I ordered: VELCRO Brand ONE-WRAP Garden Ties with Cutter | Plant Supports for Effective Growing | Strong Gardening Grips are Reusable and Adjustable | Gentle Plant Ties | Cut-to-Length | 45ft x 1/2in Roll, Green https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NC5C38W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f6IaGb3QCQH00?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hope this helps you! You should post a before and after as well! 🌱🪴
Piggybacking off your comment since it's relevant...
It's possible to add drainage holes to just about any pot! A tile/glass drill bit like this one can be used even when the plant has already been potted (as a last ditch effort when the plant isn't strong enough yet). Just have to be super gentle with tipping it.
I used to know Bob Gordon, the self-described "phal evangelist," for his knowledge of the phalaenopsis genus of orchids; he wrote several books on the subject, he died about 9 years back.
Anyway, Bob's theory as to why phals flower is that "they think they're dying," meaning fall and cooler weather is setting in. In commercial greenhouses (or at least the ones run by one of my buddies in California), they use wet blankets at night (!) for a couple of weeks to induce flowering. "Why don't they rot?" comes to mind- moisture after dark is pretty much a recipe for inducing rot in phals, and I don't have a good answer other than that they probably load up the plants and rotate through every fungicide and pesticide they can legally use on the crop.
I'm not sure as I found the explanation convincing, in that it's rare that a phal goes into serious decline- losing leaves, losing roots, becoming super-dry and teetering on collapse- but chooses to throw a spike. There are exceptions, of course, and I suspect it's just a "timing" thing- it was the right time of the growth cycle for that phal to flower, but its care changed and was sent into a downward spiral.
The timing- onset of a spike to fruit maturation and dehiscence of the capsules- is so long that I just don't know as it works for phals. Other plants, which can flower and set seed more quickly- absolutely. It's a last-ditch attempt to reproduce.
Here's a link to the miticide I used this year when I got a bad spider mite infestation. They went away after a couple weeks of treatment.
Hahaha yeah I guess it kinda is worm poop? But it’s full of super good organic nutritious for plants. As we never fertilized the plant before in its whole 40 years we didn’t want to add anything chemical filled to shock the plant even further so we went the more “natural” route. This Hoya gets a LOT of sun, this whole room is wall to wall window and then the whole ceiling is full of skylights so it’s sun 360.
We got the castings off of Amazon as there’s no huge plant stores super close to us (like to support local when we can) but here’s the link! It’s like $14 and you only need a handful or so so the bad should last a little while
Worm Castings Organic Fertilizer, Wiggle Worm Soil Builder, 4.5-Pounds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZOEOEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SFJRCH1T8BZFPW9TAKE3
Did you repot it?
If so I’d give it a week to 10 days to get settled before fertilizing. If not then yeah definitely go for it.
I have really good success with a light indoor fertilizer (3:1:2) and I use it every other watering, rather than something like miracle grow (20:20:20) where you only use it every couple months but kind of shock the system with nutrients. I like this one.
Looks like the little bit left in the back (that’s still green) is alive, everything else is dead. Succulents do not do well with frost and the leaves that have frozen will not recover. That little bit left, however, has a 15 year root system that should come back well.
I use an app that emails or texts me when it’s going to freeze so I can bring my plants inside.
Protip: put your dunk in a little muslin or cheesecloth bag like this. It keeps all the dunk chunks contained as it disintegrates. The little pieces used to clog my watering can neck eventually so this solves that problem.
How long you need to run it depends on your location, the weather, and other things in your home.
I'd get a hygrometer (measures humidity). They're $5-10 on amazon. Then you can aim for a specific humidity level rather than doing a bunch of guesswork.
I have this one which was $11, current 12. Because it bluetooth connects to my phone and will give me alerts if the temperature or humidity is outside the range I set.
Mosquito Bits. Sprinkle them on the top of the soil or add them to the water you use to water your plants. By far the easiest way to deal with fungus gnats and a 30z container could last for years.
I water mine with this: ACM Economy Wash Bottle, LDPE, Squeeze Bottle Medical Label Tattoo (250ml / 8oz / 1 Bottle) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTHLR18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6M-BDbHY9AXQJ
It’s awesome!! Good luck ��
Thanks for all the comments, got some of this https://www.amazon.co.uk/FITO-Citrus-Feeder-Yellow-13-5x2-8x18-5/dp/B00B2KJ59Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=citrus+plant+feed&qid=1597515026&s=computers&sprefix=Citrus+&sr=1-2to. use arriving tomorow, after summers over I'm going to repot in a bigger vessel and most probably stake it to keep it vertical! Thanks for the tips first plant I've had that isn't a cactus.
Went and got it some new friends today aswell. http://u.cubeupload.com/Jayruss/20200815191536.jpg
You can get gnatrol instead of mosquito dunks which is BTI concentrate too but designed for use on plants for gnats instead of in bodies of water for mosquitoes. https://www.organicbti.com/product-page/gnatrol-bti-omri-organic-fungus-gnat-larvicide
Although for houseplants honestly I recommend using imidacloprid systemic pesticide in granular form. You can get it from Bonide on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Systemic-Granules-22-4-lb/dp/B000BWZ9U8
Not only will imidacloprid kill all your fungus gnats and any other soil borne pest it will kill every single thing else besides armored scale & spider mites. I seriously can't recommend it high enough. It lasts 90 days and kills everything from aphids, thrips, whiteflies, you name it. I use it on all my indoor plants as a preventative and it works extremely well. It actually works too well for its own good & will kill bees too so do not use it on outdoor flowering plants.
Spider mites aren’t spiders, they are infinitely smaller also so you wouldn’t have noticed them by accident.
That being said, here’s a link to a good product on Amazon.
Spray twice, with 5 days between sprays, making sure you coat all surfaces well, until the spray drips from the leaves. Pay special attention to the underside of the leaves and hard to access spots where pests may be hiding. You’ll need a spray bottle for this but a pressure sprayer would be best.
Apparently my neighbors had woodpecker problems and got them away with hanging globe lanterns like this. I always wondered why they had them hanging all over their house and just learned it's for woodpeckers. Google suggests windchimes and pinwheels as well.
Use bonide systemic geanules. This was life-changing and the only thing that worked for me. Bonide Systemic House Plant Insect Control Granules 8 oz., 0.22% Imidacloprid Insecticide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BX1HKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0JK5438Y1J575YKZYKWB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I wouldn't use them for any other type of plant really, but I've had good luck with self watering pots where the insert is made of porous clay and you put the water in the bottom part. I typically soak the inner part for a couple days before planting to make the clay more absorbent, and I change the water out once a week or so. My ferns grow like crazy in these but I've never had gnat problems. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011MFQ7E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_X1NYFTW9REC6VTGDA6GH
As someone personally traumatized by thrips (they killed like 50% of my collection), I am overly cautious about them now and glad I could help!!!
As far as taking care of the infestation
I really hope this helps. You have such a beautiful plant, I'd hate for you to lose it! :(
Some companies will take the more effective chemicals out of neem oil to sell at a higher price. I had a horrible spider mite problem until I used concentrated neem mixed with castile soap and distilled water. The brand I used is Dyna-Grow Neem Oil and Dr. Bronner’s unscented castile soap.
You can probably buy some at your local pet store, or Homedepot, the one I bought was from Amazon. I used about half the bag for this pot.
These are the products that helped me with similar issues - ie. living in Washington with long gloomy winters.
[Plant Grow Light from Amazon ]
Also this is my fav fertilizer. I got it from Home Depot
It runs for about 6-8 hours at a time! I start it every morning as part of my daily routine and let it run until it’s out of water. It sits right next to the plant so the plant does get some of the mist, but the vapor is so fine, I haven’t noticed water beading up or anything like that.
Here’s a link if you want to check out the exact model I bought. It just needs cleaned every few days. Raydrop Cool Mist Humidifier
Thanks! They were actually a gift from someone who was tired of watering my plants for me lol I don’t have the exact link, but I think these are similar. There’s lots of different types!
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GRNGRM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I ended up getting a few of them, but sometimes I think about buying a single headed one for other plants. It's got a clip on the bottom, so make sure that works for you! As in, it doesn't stand on its own.
I had a spider mite outbreak in fall. It was a such a headache to research and to deal with!
I used this Natria spray on half of my infected plants- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PF1K32J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FV6X5HJA0Z9DY7N6DD3G
And Bonide Neem oil spray on the other half. Just to see if one worked better. I prefer the Natria.
The day before treating, I put all of my plants in the tub and sprayed them thoroughly with the shower head. I kept my plants in the tub overnight and the next day I treated them.
I used a small, rough-ish, makeup brush, sprayed alllll the foliage, (top and undersides of the leaves, as well as the stems) then used the brush to really sweep it across the leaves and get down into the 'crotch' of the stems. I didn't rinse, and I repeated treatment a week later. Most only needed 2 treatments, others needed 3.
--The plants lived in my bathroom away from all my other plants (and any direct light) until I was certain they were bug free. (About a month later). I hope this helps.
I use this one but I don't know that there's much difference between brands so whatever is available to you should be fine
Some people have reported success with diy versions with, like, epsom salts and crushed baked eggshells, but I prefer the easy way :)
I had an issue with them last year and this fixed it:
I did this for a month or so and they went away. (I used this on indoor houseplants. Not sure if it’s ok for things you might eat)
I have this red/blue light working for about 6-7h a day in my bedroom (using a timer plug). I would have it run longer but I end up taking work calls that don't look as good with pink light drowning everything (nor can I run it while I'm sleeping).
The light is mounted next to the window facing all my plants, this means I have it mounted vertically with the LED facing horizontally. The plants are arranged within a 1.5m radius around the window/light. The plants closest to the light are growing about twice as fast as the ones in the back rows. If you throw a humidifier in the mix, you'll have consistent fast growth all year round.
Yeah those sticky traps can get expensive. I went the cheaper-ish route.
And then I basically just brush on yellow post-it notes. Stick two sheets together and put a lollipop stick in-between.
I couldn't recommend this water meter enough. When it reads 5/6 or lower at the bottom of the pot then it's time for water. :) This looks over watered to me. My philo gets yellow like this if her feet are wet. Might be worth getting the meter so it's easy to know when it needs watered
Thank you! Yes, I use this one I bought on Amazon. I hope that's the case, I will keep a close eye on it. https://www.amazon.com/Food-All-purpose-Fertilizers-Plants-Pets/dp/B07QNMBLGQ/ref=sxts_rp_s2_0?cv_ct_cx=house+plant+fertilizer&dchild=1&keywords=house+plant+fertilizer&pd_rd_i=B07QNMBLGQ&pd_rd_r=e4ed1c38-7a38-45bc-b463-b528701ee4fa...
Use a moisture gauge.
For succulents, I wait until it just barely registers when pushed into the deepest part just below the root ball, then I water.
For other plants this is often a little too dry, so reference, gauge, and feed appropriately.
Someone previously recommended this and it’s the only thing that has kept them away for good on my plants - Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout, 16-Ounce https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002JU1QEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G4D8DMKK84BW5T2R1MWW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This happened to me as well. First I brought them all outside and sprayed them with water. Then I used this GrowSafe Bio-Pesticide, Organic Natural Miticide, Fungicide and Insecticide, Non-Toxic, Concentrate (8.5 Ounce) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M983TRL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YSFV4KK5BF9CGV3Q4JES?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had a lot more luck with this than neem oil. I still use neem oil in my vegetable garden but if I’ve got kites, I use this. Make sure they are shaded while they dry or the leaves will burn. Repeat the process twice or even three times
They’re slow growers. All of mine are. It’s kind of nice because they’re really low maintenance. You could try an all natural fertilizer that won’t damage if you over do it. My favorite one is this. Patience is key :)
You can also use something called Mosquito Bits by Summit. It is a natural bacteria called BT.
Good catch. I see it too. Also, little white dots on the leaves could be thripes. Not that these are. You'd need a microscope to confirm between the two. Or if you have both, which would be awful.
But, there's a microscope online that was the best present under $20 I got for myself to study my plants. https://www.amazon.com/Carson-MicroBrite-60x-120x-Lighted-Microscope/dp/B00LAX52IQ
I look at their leaves all the time under this thing. It's so cool.
Looks like dust to me, but if OP can snap a pic of the under side of a leaf it would be easier to tell. Calathea's are definitely a common treat for mites.
I highly recommend a pocket magnifier like This one for home identification.
This is how I recently conquered the fungus gnats!
There are bright yellow sticky traps you can buy on Amazon. I will link. These are effective at getting the mature gnats that are flying around.
Next you are gonna wanna do a Neem oil drench to kill off the larvea in the soil. I will link specific instructions.
Lastly you're going to want to dust the top of the soil with some Diatomaceous earth. This will help if anything still lives.
Honestly though the best way to deal with them is to change the soil. Since there was something clearly wrong with your last batch you may want to consider this option.
I put this in all my plants and they love it. You can get it at Home Depot or Walmart or wherever. It’s pretty widely available
Lilly Miller Alaska Fish Fertilizer 5-1-1 Concentrate 1 Quart (2-Pack) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07D8ZP34L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_CG0.FbGBCAXSC
Completely echo what's been said about light. Of course we can't see what light source is behind the camera, but this corner does look pretty dark (from the picture you've posted). In my experience, monsteras are pretty tolerant of most light conditions, meaning they will *survive* in most light levels, BUT if you want it to thrive and put out fenestrated leaves, the more light the better. Mine is directly in a south-facing window (I'm in the US northeast, so that's not exactly a south-facing window in somewhere like Arizona where heat could potentially scorch the leaves) and each new leaf is more fenestrated than the last. If moving it isn't an option, could you get it a grow light? (note that you don't have to spend a ton of money to get something that would help - you can buy a decent bulb for about $10 or even get a pack of T5 tubes like these which are relatively low cost to run every day and my plants love them :) )
Terra cotta pots suck the soil dry, I don't use them unless it's for succulents. I would repot this in fresh potting soil inside a different container with a drainage hole. If this guy's soil usually looks this dry, and if it's more than 5ft from a super bright-ass window it won't grow. Everyone severely underestimates how close plants have to be to a window. And no growth is a sure sign of underwatering. If it was getting enough water but not enough sunlight, it would grow, just weirdly.
If you want zero guessing involved, I would read up on what that plant likes and pick up a super cheap moisture and light meter like this one from Amazon. Has saved me a lot of trouble when I have to check if a big plant is dry or if the sunlight isn't strong enough.
Amazon, actually! It’s been a few years, but I think they’re these. T4U 2.5 Inch Ceramic Flowing Glaze Solid Gray Base Serial (3 Shape) Set Succulent Plant Pot/Cactus Plant Pot Flower Pot/Container/Planter Package 1 Pack of 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E5ERIS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t3j4CbBE50RF8
It's probably reacting to a drastic drop in humidity. In a pinch, a tray under the pot with a layer of pebbles, filled with water to a level not above the pebbles, can help in a small area around the pot. Best bet, get yourself a humidifier. They even make tiny ones perfect for plant corners.😉
Also, some roots are getting out, as you can see in the pics below. I should have planted it deeper I guess, when I repotted it from the nursery, 3months ago.
Now I don’t know if it would be I good idea to repot it again so soon
Just sharing this picture of mealybugs
Hope this helps
Wtf is wrong these places that put plants in stuff like that. If you hadn’t already I would switch the soil to a cactus soil mix with a mix of jacks soil. jack soil, best soil on the planet
This is what I use with all my succulents and cactus and it’s amazing
The one you have isn't horrible, generally speaking. It'll grow plants. It'll grow some veggies. It's only 75 watts.
If you're looking for a legit upgrade, I'd recommend Mars hydro and spider farmer.
This light will blow the one you have away. Not just because it's more wattage, but it's got better LEDs and a better all-around spectrum and array.
I use the Mars tsw2000 for my plants over the winter and the results are great when combined with a good environment. Peace lilies, canna lilies, tropical hibiscus, aloes, orchid, money tree.
Just more light and maybe top it and propagate what you cut and repot with it. Also try this plant light for more light.. cheap and works amazing https://www.amazon.com/YGROW-Spectrum-Flowers-Vegetables-Greenhouse/dp/B07WJNLPZ1
I use a moisture detector. That way I have no doubt whether a plant I'm about to water truly needs a drink. (It also can read pH levels)
Leaf spot! My peach trees had this same problem a couple months ago…it looked very similar to your picture, then spread and worsened to my pear tree and apple tree. Untreated, you’ll lose alot of leaves, and the disease may spread to fruits which will cause fissures and malformation. Prune any branches that are overwhelmed with the disease (cleaning the blade in between cuts), then spray with a copper fungicide early in the morning just before sunrise; cleaning the blades to ensure you don’t cause spread or secondary infections, and spraying before sunrise so that the fungicide has a chance to dry without causing sunburn and without leaving the plants to sit drenched all night.
Bonide 811 Copper 4E Fungicide 16oz (473ML) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSULSHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8v47fClcRfHzZ
I did this, and the infection cleared out in a couple weeks. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Edit: spelling, and listing for copper fungicide
Thanks for the heads-up on the soap!
This is the spray bottle I purchased on Amazon. It's small enough to move it easily around but I think the reservoir is large enough to not have to constantly fill it. But.... I haven't put it into full use yet. Just did a small test with the reservoir full to make sure it worked.
3 Pack Succulent Plant Pot Flowers Bucket Rustic Metal Container with Twine Handle
Half price! Half price! Half price! Coupon: 50CDQLUW
Oh how weird! If you look at the back label image here there's a section on gnats and tea!
Lol a fruit fly, or maybe a gnat, either way you already have the solution to it. Those stickies are pretty effective. Almost any plant is gonna have that problem at one point in their life. It’s very common. The eggs are in the soil, so there’s no point in buying any sprays to kill. You can just keep using those stickies, if your problem is really bad you can add additional ones or something like this to augment the control management. They go away after a few life cycles if you have enough traps to prevent breeding
that's what i use! Hope it helps!
Mosquito bits! Pour into your watering can and let sit for many hours then use that water to water your plant. Let the soil dry COMPLETELY, then water again the same way. Depending on your infestation it usually takes a few rounds of this to get rid of them. And the yellow sticky traps help catch the adults like you’re doing. Good luck!
Summit 116-12 Quick Kill Mosquito Bits, 8-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F87BBR4T4V3SERNGD38H?psc=1
This isn't unusual for new plantings to suffer some initial damage/loss. I would just cut the brown leaves off. The new growth in the center looks good. If it continues to brown, then it's too much sun, not enough water situation.
When you do new plantings, in addition to extra water, I often cover mine for a few days with either a bucket or sunshade or what works really great are these mesh laundry hampers. They provide a decent amount of protection from the intensity of sun on new plantings.
Good luck, I'm sure they will be just fine soon!
Hi! I’m still new to plants. So, take my advice cautiously. I have a different kind of Peperomia and I wasn’t necessarily struggling, but I could see it wasn’t happy and very droopy. I did some research on this sub and someone recommended this fertilizer supplement and it has made a world of difference. I heard all Peperomia’s are thirsty for calcium. For the first time, my plant is popping and stretching her leaves out. I also have my plant in all peat moss and she seems to be loving it. I have a peperomia frost.
Yes open the hydrangea up. Last year the women at the nursery told me to cut them back even though it was middle of summer, add compost around the base and apply a granulated product...tree shrub protect and feed (https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-701810-Protect-Concentrate-32-Ounce/dp/B004TT36D6?ref_=ast_sto_dp ). It also fights aphids I think which attract the scale.
Cut it back and then blast it with light. That thing is reaching to try and find more. I have mine near this light for my succulents https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07VBJVSM5/ref=twister_B07Z22XMJ1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and it is doing incredible, constantly putting out new leaves.
All good then! I heard they are quite easy to look after. It’s a fertiliser for indoor plants, it releases the contents slowly over 4 weeks https://www.amazon.co.uk/SBM-Life-Science-Baby-Houseplant/dp/B000TROMB2
i started using fish emulsion on my pothos and it FINALLY started growing after not growing for freaking MONTHS. (i mean not putting out a SINGLE leaf) i was getting pissed off bc people talk abouit how easy the plant is to care for but i was having no luck. anyways, fish emulsion diluted in your watering can is the key. that and giving it enough light. I bought this and it works great <strong>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009L8ZHVY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1</strong>
I swear by Superfly Bonsai, and I see they have a Conifer specific mix https://www.amazon.com/Conifer-Bonsai-Soil-Mix-Professional/dp/B073ZVH4B9
That being said it would be good to have an ID on the species because there are subtle but important differences in care and training. Ask in /r/whatisthisplant or /r/Bonsai, bet someone there will know.
Might be overkill, but I've seen tiny plastic greenhouses that can help shield your plant from wind too.
Anything garden safe should work! This is the one i use regularly and it works great!
Garden Safe Brand Crawling Insect Killer Containing Diatomaceous Earth, 4-Pound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q0DM82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8QWZD1NPFC0R15HGRE5G
diatomaceous earth is the way to go! I usually cover the top of infected plant’s soil with it and it kills those suckers so fast!! I also recommend yellow sticky traps for the adult gnats that may still be hanging around. I’ll attach a link to some below :)
24 Pack Yellow Sticky Traps for Indoor Outdoor Natural Pest Control, Fruit Fly Trap and Yellow Fungus Gnat Traps for House Plants, Whitefly, Mosquito Bits, Flying Insects, Fly Traps Save Your Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RHSFP7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9PHNJ1ZFSV32FSTVJSJ4
It’s in this pot:
Santino 4.9 Inch ORCHIDEA Self Watering Pots for Orchids in Violet - Decorative Wicking Planter with w/
Great Aerification, Drainage and Water Level Indicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TCCVTGZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WWSM3SVJZJ7B0FBVREPQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought the cheapest one available on Amazon Italy! But that’s just until I can afford a proper one. In the meantime, showers and kind words of encouragement :3
Most gardening centers will carry coconut coir bricks at the very least online. I buy mine in 6 brick boxes from amazon for cheap (one brick of that provides me ~3 gallons of potting medium, I think).
You don't really need to change into a new pot unless it's taking more than a couple of weeks for the top 2 inches of soil to dry out. Hostas like it more moist that most, but still like to dry out some between watering. Keep an eye on the moisture of the potting medium for a couple of weeks before you make that decision.
One thing I've been trying is a treatment recommended by Miss Orchid Girl. She uses this treatment on thrips and spider mites on orchids and powdery mildew on AFs.
I bought this on Amazon after pricing it locally. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B018II5JBU/
Not that I've had pest problems but I've used it pro-actively with no harm to my various types of plants...orchids, African violets...primarily.
Basically, I think it would be beneficial against any sort of pest that needs to be suffocated.
Because the mineral oil is high grade, the aerosol mist being very fine....if applied properly, the risk of clogging up the stomata is greatly reduced. And being a spray, less risk of over application as opposed to manually wiping it on.
You just have to make sure there is no direct sunlight on the plant for a day or so. And use in a well ventilated area, preferably in a protected spot outside (so the wind doesn't blow it around). And it needs to be aerosol, not pump or wiped on.
do you think this is an appropriate choice for fertilizer?
Something like this could help: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZKFDMP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_HMHEVD91MQ11SDN1J9V1 There are a ton of variations of this. You can also get stakes and use a horticultural twine to gently tie the plant to the stakes. Good luck!
It could be under watering, but pothos are such hardy plants that a couple days in dry soil shouldn't cause any dramatic browning or crispiness. A good trial would to be a helicopter parent for the next few weeks and water it as soon as you notice the soil is completely dried out.
As for diseases... the most common is root rot, and the next is a bacterial disease. But with the bacterial disease, you'll see spots with yellow halos that spreads rapidly.
As for deficiency, I've never fertilized my pothos and haven't ever had issues. If the soil is old, you could try re-potting it in new regular houseplant soil.
Another thing to consider is how close they are to your grow lights. I have this light, and it produces a fair amount of heat. If your pothos is too close to the lights, this could also be what's causing the problem.
They are two 17.7 inch poles stacked, I have a third for when it gets taller as well. Here’s the amazon link I ordered from, and I love them! XLYS 17.7 Inches Coir Totem Pole-... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08518N33L?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Make sure you get the plant Velcro to properly and safely secure branches to the pole. (I used thin twine before and it actually bruised my plants branches because it wasn’t wide/strong enough and cut into it) VELCRO Brand ONE-WRAP Garden Ties... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NC5C38W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The apple cider vinegar is good for fruit flies. What you got are fungus gnats...
First things first. You are over watering. The gnats feed of the fungus caused by excessive moisture in your soil.
There are bright yellow sticky traps you can buy on Amazon. I will link. These are effective at getting the mature gnats that are flying around.
Next you are gonna wanna do a Neem oil drench to kill off the larvea in the soil. I will link specific instructions.
Lastly you're going to want to dust the top of the soil with some Diatomaceous earth. This will help if anything still lives.
Honestly though the best way to deal with fungus gnats is to just repot in fresh new soil. If it's winter in your area you may want to wait for spring...
I just wanted to share this with you. I noticed that my bromeliads were browning pretty bad this winter. I got 2 of these lights and it helped a lot. I live in an old drafty house and had to cover most of the Windows this winter. This little light has been a life saver.
Check this out at Amazon Grow Light, HOOMEDA Tri Head Grow Lights for Indoor Plants with Red Blue Spectrum, 4/8/12H Timer, 10 Dimmable Brightness for Indoor Succulent Plants Growth, 3 Switch Modes, Adjustable Gooseneck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088BHHC66/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_EzdaGbT0G2QK0
A more natural solution is Diatomaceous Earth. It’s fossilized plant matter. Just make sure to order the food grade kind like this. Diatomaceous Earth It’s safe around animals and food :)
I use Natria 706230A Insecticidal Soap Organic Miticide, 24 oz, Ready-to-Use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00364PEFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_-FK9FbENTBX81?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 for my pest problems, I love it, the only thing it doesn’t really work on is fungus gnats, but I had a Alocasia Polly with some kind of fungus on the soil and I sprayed it with that and it went away. It even grew a beautiful new leaf from that same soil.
I have most of my plants with wick/reservoir setup but I'm always looking for something with more capacity.
I need something in terms of four to five weeks supply. To help with decreased uptake, I move my plants further away from the east-facing windows and congregate them.
Thanks for the info!
Just one of many Blumat packages. There are less expensive kits: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008PXHY3A/
My Calatheas almost bit the dust this winter. My C. Roseopicta's leaves curled up much like yours are doing in this picture. My understanding is that the curling is a response to low humidity and/or sudden drops in temperature which can be cause by cold drafts.
I agree with everyone here when they recommend you get a humidifier. This humidifier is cheap and easy to clean.
However, my situation called for a more drastic approach. Even with the humidifiers going the humidity regularly dips to 25%. Had to build a makeshift terrarium. I bought a translucent tote, threw about an inch of LECA on the bottom, added distilled water, put a 1020 tray over that and put my calatheas in there. The humidity in there stays somewhere between 80% to 100% and they're safe from hot or cold drafts. My C. Roseopicta's leaves opened right up. Today I'll be installing a small fan to improve air circulation to prevent bacterial/fungal problems. I think of it as a calathea hospital. lol
Winters are brutal for Calatheas. OTOH my monstera, tetrasperma, anthuriums, aglaonema, spaths etc. are unfazed.
Sonkir Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_X9UZFb6J62S8F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This one works well, don’t ram it in to hard earth, you’ll break it.
There is one I got on amazon that I really like because it gas a timer so it turns itself on and off every day. This isnt the exact same one I bought, but it looks similar. And it's on sale!
Thanks and of course! This is the tent I went with but of course anything similar should work! Edit: This particular one doesn’t have a bottom so I duct taped a contractor bag as a makeshift (and disposable) floor.
Okay so these are similar to the ones I have
And then I just put them in the windows like this. Then they act just like sunlight coming through. I also bought some smart outlets that I could connect to my echo dot to put them on a timer (or you could find similar ones that already have a timer but I find having the app to be more user friendly)
You really do not want to go heavy with any treatment (pesticide, fungicide, fertilizer) unless it's absolutely necessary. Neem is not (opinion) a good choice for gnats, especially if you have an inclination to go heavy handed. Use a mosquito bit drench, only when the plant needs to be watered (no more frequently) to kill the larvae in the substrate. Use sticky traps to catch the adults. Do a few cycles of this to get all generations. Also, repotting to combat gnats only serves to stress the plant out. It's not going to stop the gnat problem.
You will never be rid of gnats forever, they are part of the 'intentionally keeping big moist pots of dirt in our homes' package. Gnats also are not worth panicking over or making rash treatment decisions. Save that feeling for spider mites :)
I can't tell you if it's going to recover from the neem, just that you should stop using it in this instance.
First off, rubber trees love humidity and spraying with water should be fine.
I was going to say it looks like some kind of fungus, but if the leaves are sticky it's probably some kind of pest. Aphids and spider mites are the most common ones that secrete a sticky substance, but I don't think either makes damage like this.
Hopefully someone else will have a better answer, but no matter what quarantine that plant. I'd also treat with a spray that kills both fungus and bugs (something like this https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BQP5I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_co-PFb0M4D0A7)
Fellow ADD plant person here! My rattlesnake is super happy next to a humidifier, and I use a terracotta watering stake to keep it watered. I just fill up a mini wine bottle with water once a week, and then turn it over and put it in the stake. It’s probably the easiest plant I care for, and it’s super happy—no misting required.
For my other plants I got these moisture monitors and that’s a nice visual cue for me to remember to water (or remember not to overwater!).
Yes, more light! When they stretch like that it means they need more light. There's some pretty inexpensive options on Amazon -
Googles Science Journal app is helpful for stuff like this, as well as tracking weird whining sounds in the hosue.
There are copper treatments you can get if you're interested in organic gardening: https://www.amazon.com/Bonide-811-Copper-Fungicide-473ML/dp/B00BSULSHA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=copper+plant+treatment&qid=1602464703&sprefix=copper+plant+trea&sr=8-3
You may find something else at the hardware store, like chemical fungicides. I think neem oil works for powder mildew, but I'm not sure of it's effectiveness for other types.
OMG, sorry. I got to running my mouth about the plants and forgot. These are 4', but they make them in shorter lengths.
Beautiful Micans! I love them so much!
Examine her in a location with bright lighting or a flashlight. Grab a bottle of neem oil, rubbing alcohol, and a bunch of q-tips. When you spot a mealy bug, wet it with a q-tip dipped in alcohol and wipe it away. Any section of the plant that has residue from the mealy bugs should also have alcohol applied to it. Spray the whole thing down with neem oil, including the undersides of the leaves. Repeat procedure every 3-5 days, until you no longer see any more mealies.
Additionally, you can invest in some kind of systemic granules (like this one) to put in the soil that will help prevent future infestations.
No problem. These are the ones I have, but I've seen them in a single strip for about £12 if you're short on money.
Super easy to set up and have lasted me a few months without issues.
My apartment (outside of Boston) is very dark so I’ve been on a grow light binge recently. I also like strip lights ( just bought these guys: 6 Packs Plant Grow Light T5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086W1KK2B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) But my Monstera is super happy under this GE bulb GE BR30 Full Spectrum LED Grow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN6SVG6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I usually just buy cheap clamp lights for the fixtures or really inexpensive desk lamps with clips and they work great!
(And apologies for the ugly links and formatting!)
I'm using MircaleGro Expand 'n Gro soil (https://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Gro-Expand-Potting-Soil-0-33/dp/B01N1UXYCC). I have the pots out in my balcony, temp has been 65-85 degrees and humidity 40-50%. I got a spray bottle to water them so I don't disrupt the soil too much and have been watering them 1-2 times a day when I notice the top of the soil drying up.
Do you have a moisture meter? They are the best tool I think for taking care of plants. It takes all the guesswork out of watering. I discovered that i was watering certain plants far too often and others way too little, and I had been doing the whole "water when the top inch is dry" thing.
If you are bad with plants but enjoy them, I recommend cast iron plant. It has big, broad dark green leaves but doesn't need much light (I have one about 10 feet away from a south facing sliding door with curtains, and it is happy as a clam). They are also safe for pets, which many other 'low-maintenance' plants are not. It is truly the most chill plant and looks beautiful without much fuss. I know I'm enabling you, but the cast iron plant is your plant soul mate if you have a brown thumb. :P
The problem with fertilizers is that they have somewhat arbitrary amounts of nutrients. They might give your plants not enough of one thing, and too much of another. You could do soil testing kits like this link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMAXMRA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TuUtFb0353D1Z
Soil testing can help to determine what nutrients your plant needs. There are also images of different types of micronutrient deficiencies online, which can help identify issues by the way the leaves look. If it is manganese, I’ve read that manganese is best absorbed through the leaves. You can get a foliage spray version of manganese, spray the leaves according to directions. I hope this helps!