What are /r/printmaking's favorite Products & Services?

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That is fantastic to hear and why I am creating these process videos. I love sharing techniques and tips. Can’t have enough artists making awesome work in the world.
If you’re interested, the tool I am using for the stippling is called a Kiwa side chisel knife 7.5mm. It came in 5 pack of Power Grip tools I got on Amazon.
Here is that set.

Presses would work with that (despite it being squishy, have a friend that uses it on a press), and any relief tbh, but are costly. Honestly for a lower cost option (not dirt cheap, but compared to a press it is super affordable), would look into cold press laminators like this - really just need two pieces of mat board to sandwich block + paper and it runs through like an etching press however it won't do etching as well. I've used lino and wood with them without issue, and some people in the sub's discord also use them. With the softness of the matrix, applying pressure with a spoon is probably harder to print than a press due to the uneven pressure it would cause. Linoleum, even while still handrinting, will hold up to more pressure than these rubber block types and if fresh shouldn't be too much harder to carve. Can also heat up linoleum with a hair dryer on hot.

With water based, you can thin it with water, but very quickly it will degrade and be hard to print on a non-porous surface like the rubber and even linoleum. with the brayer, it shouldn't be a sticky sound of ink, but more of a sheen.

It's done by exposing your film with a halftone screen + glass + high contrast emulsion kind of like a contact print in normal analog photo printing. The angle is the angle the halftone screen is in relation to the emulsion underneath, if I remember right, done at 30 degree intervals because that's most unlikely to present moire because of ~math~.

You could try to dig up some old litho technical manual although I doubt you can get most of the materials today. ie https://www.amazon.com/Halftone-Photography-Offset-Lithography-Erwin/dp/B001DXF2VK

Honestly, no. They don't work very well and they are very limited in size. I would recommend looking into cold press laminators like this - it won't be great for etching, but they work well with wood and linoleum. It needs basically no modification beyond getting a piece of mat board to sit on, and one to go on top of your paper when printing (basically sandwiching block to create press bed and blanket replacement, as relief don't need blankets at all just something like mat board to cushion slightly).

A few users in the sub's discord operate using cold press laminators, as well as some people on the sub have posted about using them (can find them in this flair tag).

There are other kits on amazon by speedball that are like $10 and $20 that will be enough to let you know if you're even interested in things like linocut... They're not precisely linocut, as it's not technically linoleum, but the process is the same. (Though the $10 one doesn't come with any kind of ink.) Otherwise, you can get cheap carving tools and blocks and ink separately, but the kits make it convenient to just get started.

I recently got a Pfeil tool, and I cannot be happier. I got the 1 mm apart tool. It is a game changer.

Amazon link

A lot of shops also have a minimum number of shirts for orders on screen printing because of the cost of set up and materials for burning/reclaiming screens, so if you find one willing to do a one-off, it might be more expensive than you're thinking. That being said, not sure what the shop situation in your area is, but it wouldn't hurt to call around and ask. It also depends greatly on the image, the more colors in the print, the more money it will cost to create. You can have shirts digitally printed as well, but the quality is quite different from a plastisol print like the shirt in your picture. The colors pop less and the feel is less flat and graphic (at least in the quality I've seen from printshops I've worked that had both digital and screen printing.) Most online shops you see, like Teespring, use digital printing to accommodate different sized runs for their orders. Hope this is helpful to you.

Very nice! I like the interior trees!

Reminds me of the ink illustration of someone I'm following on instagram: LarsOtterclou, as he also does this sort of mixed perspective inside/outside figures on occasion.

Looks like a cold press laminator (e.g., https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Laminator-Laminating-Machine-Lamination/dp/B00D1M3YQQ) I've seen lots of ppl on here use them and they seem to be a cheaper option than the usual printing press. I've been scouring craiglist for a used one.

The tools I use to carve are Pfeil and I get them from Jackson’s Art here.
The tool I use to do the stippling is a Power Grip and I got on Amazon here.

I've used the grey linos from Blick before and they're not my favorite. I'm not sure exactly why/how but it's harder to get a clean print (not splotchy or overall faint in color) and washing the paint off these is harder than other blocks I've used. Blick's other block options are a bit more expensive, yeah, but it'll make the process go smoother for sure.

I started with this set from amazon and tbh the blocks are easier to cut& wash

I just have this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Artway-Plastic-Printmaking-Baren-10cm/dp/B09FKFL3YF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=291UBZTW6H3MH&keywords=baren&qid=1670971408&sprefix=baren%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 but I always use table spoons and wooden spoons aswell

I bought some of these a few years ago and was really impressed. I've been using them for printing lately and they work great. It's possible he's changed his recipe, but I hope not.

thanks! when i first started i would burnish each print with a barren for like 5-6 minutes and a lot of pressure to get the deep and consistent black, but then i bought a cheap press on amazon (its actually a cold laminating press not a proper linocut one--didn't have the $$ to spend on a true press) and it made a world of a difference in saving time and being consistent with every print. worth every penny!

you can see other examples of the deep black i get on my etsy (link here)

"Printed in North Korea" which shows a lot of reduction relief prints of the upmost quality is interesting.

https://www.amazon.com/Printed-North-Korea-Everyday-Life/dp/0714879231/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=33XARVYFMB48I&keywords=printed+in+north+korea&qid=1658493060&sprefix=printed+in+north+%2Caps%2C972&sr=8-2

Thanks! Found it on Amazon by Nomad Crafts Co. Here's the link. If you go to all their products, there should be different sizes too. Fair warning, it's 200 GSM paper and is a little thick for using a baren (though not impossible), but it works fine with something like a Woodzilla press, which is what I have. Peace!

I appreciate it! I order mine from McClains printmaking supplies, but you should be able to order it from Amazon or something— I don’t think it’s special.

Here’s a link I found for one that I would guess works

https://www.amazon.com/Yasutomo-NP56J-Nori-Paste-10-Ounce/dp/B0027ACSF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1XM179QKFR0O8&keywords=rice+paste+glue&qid=1645984036&sprefix=rice+paste+glue%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-3

The Akua pin press is about 250 bucks and works very nicely for relief printing and monoprinting. Not super great with etching but it definitely can be done ✅ Akua Pin Press, 20 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRE967Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_7AX2ARFR2J35H0CG7N3V

If you’re ok with not everybody having the same size you could pick up a couple wood carving sets on Amazon ? It’s what my art class in highschool had.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVWD15T/r

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FGZIVD6/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_B74KME2V8XV7BKQMT36W

I was given this recently, it's got a lot of techniques. It has almost no history though..

Printmaking: A Complete Guide to Materials & Process (Printmaker's Bible, process shots, techniques, step-by-step illustrations) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1780671946/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_S3JAJDEGE98NBDAS9JM7

Hi, I'm not the OP, but can you tell me how you're getting on with your cold laminator?

Are you getting a good even print with it? Any non obvious pros that you've discovered? And any cons?

Was the set up fiddling to do with getting the right height for the lino and paper to roll through properly?

Also do you send it through the roller as part of a 'sandwich' with a solid base eg plywood then lino and paper )I'm just wondering if this would keep it together for any touch ups and also stop it from moving around whilst being rolled/pressed

I was thinking of getting one of these https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D4GF6BE as it seems reasonable and is also German made so should be able to withstand a fair bit of printing

Thanks in advance :)

I finally finished hand carving my floor tom recently and here are the final results. If you wish you can follow me on twitter or check me out on behance:

https://www.behance.net/declanbehan

https://twitter.com/declanbehanart

Yes I do. It is listed as the:

INTBUYING 14Inch Cold Manual Laminator All Metal Frame 360MM Manual Cold Roll Laminator Mount Laminating Machine

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B3CQX1V

[I have no Amazon affiliate codes or relation with the seller. I'm just a happy printmaker using this particular press.]

I use pre-cut cards and postcards for lino printing (same ink as you) and it works great. Just ordinary card stock paper. T(I use these cards: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BCT76LL/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_1JYHHQFEGRK4VVYHYVNT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

Amazon has a pack of 12 small off-brand easy carve blocks for about $20. It doesn't copy over drawings from paper that well, but the carving is comparable to easy carve! Link here

I don't know what your budget is but I bought my wife one of these: https://www.amazon.com/INTBUYING-14Inch-Laminator-Laminating-Machine/dp/B08B3CQX1V/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=cold+laminator&qid=1638684409&sr=8-6

although I ended up using it more!

It works great, at least for less than $100. I do relief/ woodcut/lino prints.

Heres a guy doing a review: https://youtu.be/7nluytdWHIQ

I bought these on amazon here. They are quite large, I did not look at the size when ordering, but it makes them different than most towels I have seen in stores.

Just acquired these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072Q42GXQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

They're probably "relatively good" lights but they are so much better than what I was using, and not massively expensive.

I have one of these. I'm not sure if it's big enough but look into cold laminators. They are perfect if you put a piece of felt on the top of your paper when you roll it through.

INTBUYING Manual Cold Roll Laminator 25'' Laminating Machine Lamination Foldable Long Wings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1M3YQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MKF749CYHNGA3PBC3G13

Carve away what doesn't get printed (white) / Leave what you want to print (black).

I take it you've never tried woodcut or relief printing - it's a lot of fun. Maybe the easiest/cheapest way to give it a try is to cut a potato in half and carve a real simple design into the flat side of the potato with a small kitchen knife. Then put some paint on a plate, dip the carved design into the paint and press it against some paper, or cloth or your forehead - whatever!

The next step up would be to get a set like this from your local craft store or online. It will have everything included (except paper) and instructions to get started.

Next thing you know, you'll be in a "12 step printers anonymous" program like the rest of us!

Argh, I tried all sorts. What I've learned is to use paper that specifically says it can be used with markers, pens, inks or watercolour. Smooth paper will give you crisper lines. The thinner the paper, the easier to print, especially if doing it by hand. Japanese paper is lovely and transfers well, but can give a slightly grainier finish (not necessarily a bad thing) and if it's very thin, bear in mind that it will be a little translucent, so if you end up framing the print on some brown backing board it will make the whole thing appear a bit darker.

It doesn't need to be super fancy though. I've been using this Windsor & Newton pad with really nice results. At 220gsm it takes significant rubbing to transfer the ink, so I wouldn't go much heavier than that (I don't have a press so burnish everything using a soup spoon :D).

What helped me find paper I liked was taking a scrap of every type of paper I could find in the house and trying it out. Professional art sites will often stock little pamphlets of paper samples that you can order for cheap, which can also help.

Good luck with your printing! I'll keep an eye out for your future masterpieces :)

Thank you! I'm using Speedball Fabric Block Printing Ink - can't speak for longevity of it, but I was using the same ink on Tshirts and thpose are still good after numerous washes ~6 months later. The only thing with them is that you really need to let it dry for ~2 days before doing anything with the fabric, even when it looks dry it can still be "sticky" and leave marks sometimes.

Just got this basic set online: Alvin, AB12010, Linoleum and Vinyl Carving 6-Piece Set, with 5 0.6mm Cutting Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P8FT5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8EJMBM4SM3P581Y6R8F0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

believe it or not its the speedball block printing ink! it's water soluble so you have to be careful about smudging but i was happy with the color :)

https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-3502-Water-Soluble-Block-Printing/dp/B000SBIC1A/ref=sr_1_3?crid=KUZQN0M5KRA6&dchild=1&keywords=speedball+blue+ink&qid=1613433300&sprefix=speedball+blue+%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-3

Speedball Deluxe Block Printing Kit - Includes Inks, Brayer, Bench Hook, Lino Handle and Cutters, Speedy-Carve Block, Mounted Linoleum Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027AGDWK/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_1N8M9VDBNY1E7YY0975G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I bought but they have a cheaper one without the bench hook. I love the cutters and the ink that comes with it. I do them at home without a press and it works great for my small projects

I like water soluble oil based ink. Speedball professional is good. And I hear great things about Cranefield Caligo ink. The clean up with easy with water but even easier with Windex.

As for brayers. I know there are some good ones out there but I find I don’t like the soft ones. I like harder ones but speedball’s hard brayer i find way too hard. I really like the ones from Heritage arts which were imported from Germany by Alvin are no longer available in the United States because Alvin recently went out of business. I believe the company that makes them is a company called abig in Germany. They look exactly like the ones that Alvin used to import. Here is a defunct link to them. heritage arts hard rubber brayer

As for other brands I hear a lot of good things about Holbein or Takach brayers. Both are really expensive.

I have made my own baren by glueing together Two wooden pull knobs from Home Depot. Easier on the hands. I even made a good brayer using toothpicks. You can find instructions online for toothpick brayer.

I, too, went through the same process of looking for a small tabletop press and was shocked by the prices. I bet those presses are reasonable and full of awesomeness, but I have a DIY approach to things.

Some folks have repurposed die-cut machines used by scrapbookers, such as the Xpress Xcut or Sizzix Big Shot Pro. I discovered that a manual cold laminating machine would serve my purpose—and maybe yours too. I've found it for less than $100 (non-affiliated link) and it has what I need:

• Double rollers
• Adjustable height guides
• Durable metal construction
• Foldable for storage
• Reasonably priced
• Fits on my workbench

Here's a video of a printer providing their own review and giving a demonstration of how they use it.

I've just started setting mine up this week and I'll be making some proofs in a few days.

Thank you for your answers, I was thinking about making an etsy business. So it is not easy to print it with a printer that can print on canvas?

Maybe with this: Epson Expression Photo XP-15000

That looks to be the same as Powergrip - you may be able to find their tools in a set that reduces the price greatly. That's a fair price for singles/what I've paid for sizes outside sets, but the set can bring the price down to about $6/tool. Amazon sells the 5 tool set at an alright price for Canada, the 7 set is a massive markup. But Powergrip are a solid brand/what I rec to my students for good quality starting tools that aren't going to drain your pockets. They also last very well/I've had mine since 2014 and they sharpen up like new.

I have one on Typographical Ornaments that's come in handy - found a copy on Ebay pretty cheap. I also just browse Instagram - a lot of printers out there.

There are a few 'pro' printers that use speedball blades and handles - so while they may not be the 'best' - they work and work well enough depending on what you're doing.

Amazon uk sells Essdee packs of single type of blades, so you'll probably have to look around

I'd suggest though, that if you only have a single handle. To get another handle set - that way you get the blades and an extra handle - you can keep one with a V and another with a U attached to quickly switch.

How about this polyurethane covered conveyor roller?

Polyurethane Coated Roller with Bracket, 15″ Between Frame, 1.9" Diameter Roller

You could probably bolt some handles onto it.

I've sealed stickers with Royal Elements sticker laminate and it worked pretty well! https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Elements-Laminating-Sheets-12/dp/B07K6VRNSL/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=royal+sticker+paper&qid=1598481015&sprefix=royal+sti&sr=8-5

It'll depend on what kind of sticker paper you are printing on, paper vs vinyl, for how well it holds up.

I can only assume this is a press not made for printing. Probably for some kind of industrial process.

Depending on how wide the opening is you should be able to simply use a steel bed or something. The Richeson Baby Press is a simple press and it only has a thin steel bed. I would say theirs is between 1/4" thick and 3/16" thick.

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-11In-Printing-Press-Package/dp/B00A6VXJN8

You will need to get some blankets (a catcher, pusher and cushion) and i would suggest you build or figure out a way to make the wings flush. you could probably simply use a few pieces of wood or something, those wings look like they pivot. The edges of the wings look like they should be able to hold a steel bed plate strait so it doesn't move back and forth.

I highly recommend the EZ AIR Acrylic Brush Cleaner.

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Air-Acrylic-Cleaner-16-Ounce/dp/B0049V17Y4

I have used this stuff yo reclaim old brushes at work all the time that get dried with acrylic. It should loosen up the acrylic enough for it to be cleaned out with water and a stiff nylon brush if it does get dried in.

I found this article on the press (pretty hilarious translation). It has an amazon link at the bottom, but it's the Japanese version of Amazon so it's in Japanese (duh) and I don't know if they ship overseas. Anyway the article makes it look kind of hard to use IMO (and you have to assemble it). Still fun-looking though!

You mean a small one? I saw a nice one on amazon in your price range that can fit on a table, and is the real deal. If you look there you may have some luck, just gotta wade through all the tshirt presses though Edit: found the link link that hopefully works

you can get wood blocks like this in various sizes on Amazon or Etsy. or you can use sheets of balsa wood and cut it down to size or even cut it to match the outline of your stamp if it needs to be lined up precisely. balsa sheets are less ridged then a block but can be cut with an x-acto knife. either way, don't forget to stamp the back of whatever you're mounting to before you mount the stamp!

Here is a link to one on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/All-Steel-Construction-Suitable-Printing-Monotype/dp/B004WQGIJ0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ETCHING+PRESS&qid=1568501280&s=gateway&sr=8-1

IT IS NOT THE SAME ONE I HAVE, so I cannot speak to the quality of this one but it looks very similar.

This model in this video looks very similar to the one I have and the one in the amazon link. My guess is that they are all made by the same company and then different suppliers are buying them and rebranding them:

https://youtu.be/zAXdoS2TTxA

I hope this helps. Good luck on your journey!

I bought this carving set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JFSTTS/

Which just now at the time of me posting this I am realizing is actually for woodcarving.

The U-shaped gouge was very sharp and sliced through the linoleum very easily, but the V-gauge (which I used for most of it) was a huge chore, and very difficult to work with. I tried sharpening it several times to no avail.

I guess I'm just trying to figure out if I was using it wrong, or maybe it's just because these are actually for woodcutting, or maybe there are some other tools you'd recommend that are great for linoleum. I'm using grey battleship lino.

Anyways, thanks for any help.

Avery CD Labels? I like to use a laser printer rather than an inkjet because the color is much more UV resistant to fading at the trade-off of resolution. I've got some gloss card stock which can be printed in a laser printer and then cut and folded for the CD jewel case.

https://www.amazon.com/Avery-CD-Labels-labels-Spine/dp/B00066FHJW

A set of sharpening stones is a worthwhile investment to anyone using a sharp edge. Once you have them, you can sharpen everything, even your kitchen knives. Also, they are not that expensive. Here is a Japanese made 1000x/6000x combo stone for $30. Add a 120/400 combo stone for cleaning up chipped blades. You've now spent $50 on good tools that sharpen quickly and put an excellent edge on your tools. Sandpaper is tough to sharpen with and takes a lot more finesse. If you're considering buying a new chisel every time you dull out the stones are worth it. Not to mention you'll find cutting prints much more enjoyable with a consistently sharp tool.

This is the one I use with my students. I'm sure there are "fancier" options out there, but this works fine for my purposes.

They can be like $1 from the local hardware store. Lot's of cheap ones out there. You can find diamond ones, diamond files. All kinds of cheap abrasive tools.

https://www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-PAK-Color-Coded-Diamond/dp/B000UVS62S

https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-Baren-for-Block-Printing/dp/B003IG27OK

That's the one I have. It's padded foam, but I don't feel like it's too soft. I feel like the covering slides across the paper really well too which makes it easier.

There are several variables that come into play, but you should be able to get 10-15 quality prints in any case, and maybe more. The two main factors are pressure (required to transfer the ink) and abrasion (from cleaning, etc)

Things that affect longevity would be: 1) greater detail = faster degradation. Unfortunately. You can hand-print on thinner paper, and this will decrease the pressure on fragile lines. 2) carving style. If you carve deeply, without a widening base to support the linoleum, it will crumble faster. 3) number of runs. The more you wash and scrub your block, the shorter its lifespan will be.

Check out this complete guide to printmaking for pros/cons and how-to's for many types of printmaking.

I can send you some other good resources when I get home..

Glad I'm not the one that got sexually excited looking at those tools. If it helps, I saw some similar ones on Amazon, don't know if they're exactly the same but here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Linoleum-Wood-Carving-Style-Handles/dp/B000B8G46A

great first effort, man! keep going. if you really want to have a fantastic set that is perfect for beginner to intermediate and won't bust your wallet in half, go with this.

https://www.amazon.com/Flexcut-Tool-FR405-Deluxe-Palm/dp/B001UYQPPE/ref=sr_1_4?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1470360728&sr=1-4&keywords=flexcut

whatever you do, don't go nuts and buy the most expensive carving set you can find. It's not necessary unless this is your primary thing. if you do decide to go head first after you've become more experienced, don't go with pfeil (they're not bad..just really, really pricey and i find that handle design to be sort of an outdated, limiting design as far as dexterity goes).

mclains carries what every professional printmaker I know uses: japanese carving tools. http://imcclains.com/catalog/woodblocktools/futatsuwari.html

sorry for the long ass post. feel free to message me anytime for tips/pointers. i've been doing linos and woodcuts since I was a kid (30 now) and can probably answer any questions you may have.

also my instagram is: thegodcomplex (i mainly post my silkscreen stuff these days)

Probably for stencils, if the plan is to design the image completely within the program, I'd go with a vector drawing program. Adobe makes Illustrator, if you want an Adobe product. For free, there's Inkscape. There are also programs out there that have both vector and raster capabilities. My favorite is Manga Studio 5, which you can get for $35 right now on Amazon.

Which Speedball inks are you using? I switched to these not long ago and like them much better than the ones available at the craft store http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033B6FOS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

speedball makes really user-friendly stuff that you can buy small kits of for a decent price, and it's available at most art-supply places (like michaels/ amazon at http://www.amazon.com/Speedball-Super-Fabric-Screen-Printing/dp/B00251JO8G).. they are good for learning on but it is more cost effective to make your own screens, buy larger quantities of ink online, etc etc. they also have lino cut kits that's basically the same deal. entry-level equipment that will give you an idea of what you need. (http://www.amazon.com/Speedball-Super-Value-Printing-Starter/dp/B000SKT0US/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1440457347&sr=1-2&keywords=speedball+lino+kit) I started out with kits like these then moved on to making custom sized screens. my girlfriend who does the woodcuts went to school for it and we trek down to her old college to use her professors etching press because they are insanely expensive. but you can just use a baren instead of a press for smaller stuff. you can really spend as much as you want to on it, the screenprinting set up is like a minimum of 50 bucks, the lino cut kit is around 15 or 20, but again you're probably going to want different tools/other sized blocks in the future. hope this helps!