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I'm using paid version of smart tools, but there's a ton of other free angle finding apps.
Angle Meter by smart tool factory seems to work nicely for free.
This stone, and this guide, and practice, practice, practice!
Rule #5- Amazon drying rack, (meant for plates or something, but it was $6.99 with prime shipping, lol). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXLYHNV
Stones: Naniwa #400, #1000, Shapton Pro #1000, Naniwa #3000, Naniwa #5000, Atoma #140 Diamond plate, Cheap worn out diamond plate #140, Kramer leather strop.
i dunno man, utility knife works pretty well for that. could also go with one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BC1ZIFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the blades are thin but very sharp
I have more "real" knifes 2 Victorinox, 1 wusthof and 1 shun that's why I wanna upgrade my stone. Also I was looking for this one would you recommend it? Ty for ur answer
Just to check, would that be this one?
(I'm in the US and my advice may reflect that: sorry)
I'm learning too, and I've picked up some decent kitchen knives for $3-5 each at local thrift stores (Goodwill and such). It's nice if you can find decent steels, but even a Cuisinart or IKEA knife makes for a good practice bed at a couple bucks. I just found a 6" paring knife that is full tang and integrated bolsters and stamped 440C for $3.99 with some horribly ugly and uncomfortable scales. I'll never use it in the kitchen, but it's an excellent stand in for my good knives while I learn!
For stones I just picked up a King KW65 (1000/6000 grit with a plastic base) for $26 on Amazon. Mine even arrived packaged well and doesn't have any chips or cracks anywhere, including the edges.
I figure once I can pick up a thrift knife that is dull but not damaged and get it to the point I'm satisfied with the edge reliably in a single sitting, I'll step up to some of my nicer knives.
I've been using these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GGT771W
The mesh allows them to dry on all sides, and the little drawer is handy for small naguras, pencils for marking before flattening, things like that.
If you have amazon prime, the shapton pro 1000 is currently on UK amazon for a good price with next day delivery, amazon.co.uk/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Shapton/dp/B001TPFT0G/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=shapton+1000&qid=1595373963&sr=8-2
Hey. I wouldn’t recommend buying a set like that for a few reasons. 1. In a set, generally the items are of inferior quality, 2. While it may seem more “future-proof” to buy a set with multiple grits, it actually will serve you worse than buying a good stone now then getting a good higher grit stone later, and 3. For that money you could get this stone.
The stone I recommended is a very commonly recommended stone. It’s recommended so much because it is a medium grit stone of very good quality, especially for the price. With this stone you will have plenty to practice your technique, and you will be able to get your kitchen knives as sharp as you could ever want them. Having and using higher grit stones before you’ve perfected your technique will not make a noticeable difference in your sharpness.
Lol thanks! it's for making sashimi or for general boneless slicing (thin). It does long single pull cuts that look quite pretty. This one isn't great quality since I got it to practice, and longer means I have more length to offset my poor skills.
Best yanagiba I could find for less than 100, ($36)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B196AC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_PP9FFbQY2RQYK
Oh, nostalgia. This was the first set of stones my father bought me when I got my first boy scout knife.
If you have stainless steel knives or if your knives aren't fairly sharp these may frustrate you. These will work well for maintaining an edge but they are not coarse enough for re-establishing a bevel. If you need something more coarse to go along with this setup look at the norton india dual grit stone. That was the second stone I owned. Bought it for myself. I still have all of them and they still work well. https://www.amazon.com/Norton-614636855653-8-Inch-Combination-Oilstone/dp/B000XK5ZDY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1R42CPMNUEW9Z&dchild=1&keywords=norton+india+stone&qid=1615431207&sprefix=norton++india%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-4
Huh? Do you want me to post a link? Ok. .
Is this it? If someone can confirm, I'm buying it now!
Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L72P245/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_UeY2FbXY69Z49?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That said, if you look through the 4 images on the product page it does bear several resemblances to Suehiro products: The stamp on the side, the rubber stand, the rubbing stone.
Overall your edge looks good IMO, you don’t need a mirror to get it incredibly sharp. But if you do want a mirror this strop will work super well
Get the lansky diamond system. Then make some balsa wood strops. Load those strops with diamond compound you can get on amazon. I remember this stuff
Contact seller or Amazon or Atoma. It should be under warranty.
I recommend these for chisels and stone lapping. Norton India stones take a long time to dish (not friable). It will outlast most any other abrasive stone, except Arkansas. My cheap DMD 400 diamond plate still has even diamonds and good cutting power after 20 years with occasional flattening of hard stones (ceramics, Arks) and cheap kitchen knives.
Chisel on traditional stone-n-strop. Durable Norton India IB8 combo oilstone (8x2x1", 150/400 grit, ~30$), mineral oil, and green compound on denim strop is great for knives and tools. https://youtu.be/xlwKYeq909g CHEAP and SIMPLE Sharpening System. Brian Hilson
Diamond lapping plates, ~27$, 2 year warranty. https://smile.amazon.com/DMD-Double-Sided.../dp/B08R5FY8V6 DMD Double-Sided Diamond Sharpening Stone 10x3 inch (120&180)
Sorry, I forgot to link it. Here you go: https://www.japaneseknifeimports.com/collections/ara-toishi-coarse-stones/products/gesshin-220-grit-stone I use a cheap $20-$25 diamond plate that I got on Amazon to flatten it. The company is DMD (not DMT). Here is a link to that, but the bot might not like Amazon links: https://www.amazon.com/DMD-Double-Sided-Sharpening-Whetstone-Exquisite/dp/B08R5FY8V6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=dmd+diamond+plate&qid=1629688968&sr=8-3 I linked the 120/180 grit one. I personally have the 150/400 one, but I couldn’t find it, and I think that the 120/180 should be as good or better because I never really use the 400 grit side of mine.
I got this one and like it. My thought process was that I would get one that was relatively inexpensive to start with, then see how often I use it and gain a little bit of experience before getting a “real” one (in the $100+ price range). So far, I haven’t found any reason to upgrade from it, though. It’s cheap enough that if you screw up, it’s not the end of the world, and good enough that you don’t think “aw man, I should have gotten a nicer one”. I’ve been using mine for around eight months now and it’s still going strong. One thing that you’re going to need is stropping compound - if you’re not in a time crunch, you can pick some up on eBay for a couple of bucks shipped from China. Otherwise just get some on Amazon.
Also, for a super beginner sharpener, I ordered this, because it was cheap, well reviewed, and I wasn't prepared to be buying anything today. I am hoping that it hones my knives, but I will definitely be looking into ordering some higher quality stone in the future.
Hopefully decent sharpener I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YKHZ96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_KCT9GJ4E02M5SF3J7CW8
I keep my stones in the room where all my computer stuff lives, It has the most consistent temperature and lack of sunlight. I ordered some bamboo dish drying racks on Amazon to store my stones vertically: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089QLCSB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_CU19AaSikCkua
At some point I will get around to building a Japanese toolbox , made of wood and constructed to promote some air movement , to securely store all of my various stones and some of the accessories, Atoma diamond plate etc. I still haven't got around to doing that, It's on my short list of upcoming projects though.
There was a post yesterday of someone's various collection of stones, stored in what appears to be a custom wood rack, that would be a good option as well.
I use them for other stuff too but even razors will dish them a bit. The flattening stone was like 20 dollars and after the first time it's real fast. Doesnt hurt and it makes everything easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Flattening-Stone-Sharpening-Waterstones-Whetstone/dp/B072WSKG6L
Used it a bunch and it works well on naniwa pros
I mean I'm no expert or anything, but it was enough to make me question and choose something else. I have no way to prove it, and didn't want to spend the money on tools to test when I don't have a lot. Here's the Amazon King link. It was in the top two comments.
Hey. You’re spot on with the Shapton Pro #1000. It is a very commonly recommended stone, and you can start with it to really practice your technique. It’s good quality for the price, and it’s a splash and go stone so you don’t have to soak for long periods of time. You seem to be on the right path though; check the wiki for more information and a full beginners guide!
I’ve been pleasantly surprised by this one. Wired or wireless, high zoom, decent stand and light. Great price.
Jiusion WiFi USB Digital Microscope 50 to 1000x Wireless Magnification Endoscope 8 LED Mini HD Camera with Updated Stand Portable Case, Compatible with iPhone iPad Android Mac Windows Linux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081F64YLB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KBN0SJGBA85Y3PANGYT1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
JKI makes a diamond lapping plate for $55 , I intended to purchase it sometime this week.
The Atoma is a very popular choice , there is another choice that is more costly which according to reviews anyway would work better. I checked it out as an option since I have large sharpening stones, however it is more expensive, This is it here: Maxi plate 2.0
I took the base off and turned it 180 degrees to have it rotate away from me. That way, you can see the burr form and it won't throw the blade toward you.
Razor sharp in under a 3 minutes.
Angle it at 45ish degrees propped up until it completely dries out, then put it back in the case. Grew mold on one of my stones doing anything less. I usually do a full day, sometimes even longer to be safe but it'll depend on the stone. My favorite way to clean a stone has been to use a medium rust eraser. Has worked very well for me so far to keep it from loading up when I don't yet need to do a full flattening of the stone to clean it.
Are these the angle guide blue wedges you're referring to? I was actually planning on getting these anyway, so it's good to see them recommended. I reckon I'll need those training wheels, generally speaking - I have no clue what I'm doing haha.
Hey, I have only now found the time to further look into this and am ready to make a purchase. Unfortunately I couldnt find a 250 1000 whetstone on Amazon, but I did find this:
Will I be able to follow your steps using these two tools? Thank you!
Alternative is this 1k+5k Shapton from the US:
Total price: £106.19
(priced at £115 from knives and tools)
If you want to use a guide for redrawing the curve, a French curve would be helpful.
Westcott French Plastic Curve Set (FC-4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CE7BEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_Xy-VFbJMNG5MG
I recently stumbled upon KnifePlanet's Sharpening School and I decided to go ahead and buy their "Waterstone Set" on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074X7VB62/
So far, I am really happy with my choice. As a beginner, this set gives me 4 different grits to work with: 400, 1000, 3000, 8000 + a stone holder. The whole set costs $49 which is great. I followed some of their lessons and I am now able to sharpen my kitchen knives easily.
I am sure that a professional sharpener would prefer Naniwa or others over these... but for me they're a great place to start
heres what i use and bought from amazon for my scandi ground carving knives > https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001DT1X9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
KING KW65 1000/6000 Grit Combination Whetstone with Plastic Base
I believe it was marked cheaper than this when I bought it though.
I'll add my voice to the chorus and say it's a very cheap stone. You likely didn't ruin the blade, but it's going to take time to fix it. I suggest you order a 400/1000 waterstone from Amazon. Something like this. I have that one and it's fine, but I'm not necessarily saying it's the only or "right" one to get.
Use the other stone for sharpening tools, (axes, etc.)
I'm a grad student and get autodesk inventor for free and used it to make some plans.
I just went to the specialty lumber place. I was told because it's unique the boards come in whatever size they can cut so it was 15" by 13/16ths and I got 2 feet. (38.1cm x 2.06cm x 60.96cm)
I then cut 6 inches (15.24cm) off the 2 feet for the base and 13.25 (33.65cm) for the stand, I had a piece of glass that was 13 by 15 and was going to drill holes for the cover but it was tempered glass so I couldn't use it. Then I practiced everything on the leftover piece before trying it on the stand and tower.
I planed everything to the same thickness and then cut 2 inches off the 13.25" piece. On the 2 inch side I cut a groove 5mm (0.2")wide and roughly 12" long (300mm) and 15mm (0.6") deep. I dropped the magnets in the slot and glued them in place, then after it was dry sanded the groove'd face down flat and did the same with the cut end of the now 11" pice. Glued them back together. Then countersunk 3 evenly spaced holes into the bottom of the stand straight down the middle, clamped it down in place on the tower and marked the 2 ends, drilled those holes and put wood screws in, then did the same for the middle hole.
Magnets are neodymium bar magnets
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R1MQTT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_IE-FFb82GY8DW
Along with the pressure advice that others have mentioned, one thing that helped me a lot as a novice (I'm now a barely-post-novice) was getting a set of angle guides so that I can actually calibrate my angle to a standard, rather than relying on the "height of a matchbook" and similar advice that you see in a lot of how-to videos. Something like this, although to be honest you probably won't need this many of them.
(There's also the trick of folding paper into successively smaller triangles such that you eventually create an angle of 15 degrees, but in practice this was too clunky for me when I wanted to check my angle repeatedly during my early sessions.)
As far as how long things should take, don't be surprised if you spend a half hour or more when you're just starting out. Sharpening is just one of those things that takes practice to get a feel for, and it's not uncommon for early efforts to seem frustratingly ineffective (mine certainly were). Just like with anything, you'll eventually get the hang of it.
Can buy raw leather and glue it to a wood block. The compound is sold as a brick and you swipe some on the leather to build a thin layer. Then strop the blade a couple dozen passes on each side.
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Chrome-Oxide-Compound-oz/dp/B003E65XYU
This is the leveling stone, I've also used coarse sandpaper on a flat surface I had access to an old surface plate, a piece of thick glass usually works well too.
The stones will become more worn in the center and it makes it really hard to get an edge, you can usually sharpen quite a few times before it's necessary to flatten.
That Skerper Pro line does appear to be Naniwa Traditionals -- maybe with a Superstone in the 5k spot.
This matter of the Shapton Pro 1k being often recommended, but being relatively overpriced in UK has come up before -- And you might check how much the stone would cost you if ordered from Japanese Amazon, once the admittedly pricey shipping and other charges are added up at checkout.
https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B001TPFT0G/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5&psc=1
A previous OP said it was a net savings of £15, or thereabouts, iirc.
Practice, practice, practice. Your angles are super important as well as a steady hand and pass across the stone. Slow way down if you have to to make sure your angle is proper through the entirety of the blade, it's not a race so take your time and learn the right way, otherwise bad habits will end up with sub par sharpened knives, and sharp knives are safe knives.
I DIY'ed my own strops, it's super easy and you save quite a few bucks and they turn out great if you properly make them. Check this out, pieindaface put together this quick guide on how to do it. With the supplies I purchased, I have made 3 3'x12inch strops, and they work just as great as anything you can buy if not better, plus you made it. If you do decide to make or buy a strop, go to amazon and get buffing compound(green) and or diamond paste, like this.
Can't comment on that one, but The Naniwa Chosera 800 is a nice hard, splash and go.
https://www.amazon.com/Shrimp-SS-800-Professional-Ceramic-Whetstone/dp/B001TPH9CM/
Warthog Diamond sharpener and a strop work extremely well for me. No learning curve. Push cut sharp.
Get the A4 model with the 15°-30° range and the fine diamond stones.
Get a strop and polish up the edge. Gets knives extremely sharp, is gentle to the knife, and uses steels at the same angle of the stones so you can steel up easily and quickly at the exact angle you sharpened the knife at. Works excellent. Like, really excellent.
Be careful with the guide. If diamond gets on the vertical guide, it can scratch. I'd use a little tape on the blade at first but after a while, you can remove the guide as all you need to do is hold the knife vertical. It's crazy easy. My 9yo sharpens knives with it.
https://warthogusa.com/product/vsharp-a4-knife-sharpener/
SHARPAL 205H Double-sided Leather... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B58SGZKG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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If water stands on top, not soaking in, use mineral oil to sharpen. If oil sits on top, measures 205x52x24mm, and doesn't dish after 20 sharpenings, it could be a Norton Crystolon JB8 (P120/320 grits). Best used in shop for tools and outdoor blades. Strop after fine side.
Fast Norton Crystolon JB8 (more aggressive) or Norton India IB8 (more durable) combo oilstones (120-400 grit, $25+, 8x2x1") and lube recipe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-qGMGisurQ&t=565s Comparing a few Coarse stones. Jef Jewell
Paddle strop with clever pyramid angle guide and green compound. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0B58SGZKG SHARPAL 205H Double-sided Leather Strop (Genuine Cowhide) 13.2" x 2.4" Kit with 2 Oz. Polishing Compound & Angle Guide
If you want to see what it's like using diamond plates, get these. Keep in mind that these are cheap plates that do not represent the best the genre has to offer, but will do a halfway decent job once broken in. Break them in by aggressively rubbing each of them with water with a piece of steel until the initial roughness is gone from each. Even the 1200 grit is more like a 300 grit right out of the box, but will settle down after wearing off the high spots. It's only $16, and if nothing else you can use them to reprofile a badly dulled knife for starting out. I bought these to see how crappy a really cheap diamond plate is. Yep, they are crappy compared to a good DMT or Sharpal or Trend plate, but are not entirely useless.
That is too course imo. not saying impossible to sharpen a dull edge at that grit, itll just be pretty unrefined. imo, 1000 grit is the work horse middle ground. if you need a decent budget stone, look at the king 1000/6000 combo stone. its not amazing, but it is a reputable unit that can get the job done for a cool $28
https://www.amazon.com/KING-KW65-Combination-Whetstone-Plastic/dp/B001DT1X9O
Yeah well his stone seems to do a good job according to his videos but it's a bit on the steeper side price-wise... King also has double sided 1000/6000 stone which is cheaper
https://www.amazon.com/KING-KW65-Combination-Whetstone-Plastic/dp/B001DT1X9O?th=1
But Shapton Pro 1000 = #600-700 JIS so its a bit on the coarse but does OK for basic sharpening.
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Sharpie on the edge + angle cube to test the angle. Yes, different stone thickness will give you a different angle. If your stone are all new EP stones you're probably fine for now.
I have this one, which is now expensive. I would look for a less expensive one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054RJ7VC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Chef's Choice Pronto. It was recommended by Cook's Illustrated at one point. I didn't know anything about sharpening when I got it, but it worked well enough on my kitchen knives that it made me want to learn more, try whetstones, etc.
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Maybe not for expensive knives, if I remember correctly electric sharpeners take quite a bit of material of the knife. For any run of the mill kitchen knives though, why not? It's very convinient, and it'll get them as sharp as you need without the hassle of sharpening with a wetstone. BUT if you're concerned about the knife being worn too quickly knives, I baught a ceramic table sharpener called Minosharp Plus 3 that's very hassle-free and relatively kind on your knife that will get it reasonably sharp without much hassle. https://www.amazon.com/MinoSharp-3-Sharpener-Black-Red/dp/B0015S0VN2
Also keep in mind elitists in this sub will exaggerate the horridness of stuff like this becuase it's not the peak of sharpening performance.
Along with all the other good advice here, the King stone you're looking at is not the best choice of that brand. The KDS version is only slightly more money, but generally considered a much better stone. Not sure if this link will help you, but it shows which one I mean.
https://www.amazon.com/KDS-Combination-Whetstone-Sharpening-Harder/dp/B01BB1ZDVW/
The King deluxe 1000 is currently $35 CAD.
Regardless, it's a flat out waste of $20 CAD for those 1000/400 and 1000/6000 stones. Like many, I started with those and found them not even worth the time to use. Save up a tad more and buy the better stone - it will make every part of the sharpening process better.
Well, you don't want them anywhere near a pull thru sharpener.
Since you've gone with some high end knives, might as well spend a decent amount on a high end stone. Buy once, cry once with this one. This will handle anything you ever throw at it, and will do it easily and quickly, all while producing a very workable edge. Assuming you bought the Miyabi's new, you have plenty of time to practice before they will need touching up.
https://www.amazon.com/Naniwa-Diamond-Whetstone-1000-DR-7510/dp/B001NYA4H6/
Thanks, I think I'm leaning towards one of these combo stones by Cerax, or do you suggest going towards a high grit cerax entirely? I was eying this 1000/3000 grit Cerax: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0176BZNX4/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ADM4YVOBFVRQJ&psc=1
but am also contemplating the 1000/6000 grit, but I'm not sure if 6000 is too high of a jump in grit progression.
I use a pet food mat like one of these:
You can get these in various sizes. I use a larger one as I do my sharpening on my kitchen island and this mat allows me to spread out stones, rags, etc. and a small tub of water and protects the island surface from water and grit. I also will place my Apex Pro system on the mat when I use it for the same reason - it protects the kitchen island surface and makes cleanup a breeze. Being silicone it also doesn't slide around and rolls up to put away easily.
1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 8" Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YCW8XZR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use this too to clean the stones, it’s like a bad ass eraser lol. Light pressure definitely helps them last and be more productive too.
I had the lansky but moved to a worksharp precision adjust. I bought an attachment that allows you to use other 4-6” stones and I now use DMTs almost exclusively. If you are sharpening steels like S30 and up diamonds save so much time especially if you are slightly reprofiling a factory edge. I have yet to find a steel the DMT set couldn’t handle including S110V.
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Sharper than usual. I have to plane leather and skive down thick piecs (2mm) to .5-1mm, and I use this carbon steel kiridashi for that : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B098LR3SXK/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sorry about that, didn't take metals into account. Here's what I could find about some of them:
- XC90
- A no name steel on this brand: https://www.amazon.com/BANYOUR-Leather-Cutting-Working-Leathercraft/dp/B07LD4PC2D/ref=sr_1_1?crid=HD5899IVEA27&keywords=skiving+knife&qid=1669411477&sprefix=skivving+knif%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-1
That's all I really have. Although I could potentially be sharpening these since I'm shopping for a new knife.
- Sandvik 12C27
- ASTM A295
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Purchased a hard case w/ foam cutouts. This one fits my TSPROF K03 and all accessories perfectly. Protects everything when not in use and the bonus is it's mobile. Brought it to friends/family and sharpened their blades for them on site.
Example of a typical China combo stone that is the wrong grit, usually too coarse.
Amazon Review: Drew 1.0 out of 5 stars Misleading
Style: 3000 & 8000 Grit Verified Purchase The 8000 grit side is really only about a 600 grit sand paper. https://www.amazon.com/Whetstone-Sharpening-Premium-Corundum-Sharpener/dp/B0B2V8PFV7
Add some silicone carbide powder to flatten the stones when they need it, and you have a whole system. (sic powder is used on a glass plate)
https://www.amazon.com/Polly-Plastics-Tumbler-Silicone-Tumbling/dp/B07P2N3V53/
Shaptons have it all over Norton stones. They are definitely not just *good* quality, they are near the top of the list of stones.
A set of shaptons that will do most anything you would ever want, and last for decades.
https://www.amazon.com/SHAPTON-Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium/dp/B01FYEYKEI/
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U got the scratches by laying the blade down flat to the stone. Go slow and hold the blade at 20 degrees to avoid; blade spine should not touch the stone. Hard to remove deep scratches. But lay the blade flat on your finest grit stone and lightly scrub to even out and refine the scratch pattern.
7$ Pyramid Sharpal 196N angle guides for muscle memory. https://www.amazon.com/196N-Whetstone.../dp/B07R76TJ61
https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-Benchtop-Angle-Sharpener/dp/B07XJRCZB9/
Alternatively, you could do some trig and figure how much to raise the end of the sharpmaker base to get the angle change you want. You would have to do one side completely, then the other side since one of the rods would get steeper and the opposite one would get a shallower angle. Doable, but not ideal. I could envision an adjustable angle base that would make it considerably easier.
Here is an Amazon link but it is cheaper elsewhere.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Smurf-Poo-original-stropping-sharpening/dp/B07581CS2C
I think it is popular with hand tool sharpeners in the UK as well as knife people.
Flashlight to see a burr or you can use a towel/cloth or paper towel. Wipe the blade from spine to edge mainly where the burr would be. The burr, even if it’s small, will pick up fibers and make it very obvious it’s there.
If you don’t want to sharpen over a sink get a baking dish or cookie sheet as well as a squirt bottle or small cosmetic style spray bottle. I use a cookie sheet at my desk with a wash bottle you’d see in a science lab/tattoo shops and if I’m using natural stones / stones I really want to control the slurry to water ratio I use a small travel spray bottle.
Try different positions, sitting vs standing, different heights for the stone and distance towards or away from you. It can really help a ton to find your sweet spot.
I posted this in a previous thread. Still think it's a good start.
An almost perfect combination of stones.
https://www.amazon.com/SHAPTON-Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium/dp/B01FYEYKCK/
If you don't want to spend that much, this one would do well for starters:
https://www.amazon.com/Whetstone-Sharpening-Shapton-Ceramic-KUROMAKU/dp/B001TPJARE/
This would work perfectly. The fold out diamond rod is for serrations, but also works for curved/hooked blades. Being tapered means it'll work on different sizes too.
Not sure if I’ll get downvoted but I use one of these for my outside tools(pruners, shears,pole pruner) https://www.amazon.com/Corona-Sharpening-Sharpener-AC-8300/dp/B000BPASBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3PWAAF4YTPOAQ&keywords=carbide+sharpening+tool&qid=1667585348&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjgwIiwicXNhIjoiMi42MyIsInFzcCI6IjIuMjYifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=carb...
You really expect them to get and learn sharpening stones to sharpen this $4 knife?
OP, get a this and it will get this knife plenty sharp in 5 minutes.
You had good intentions, and that is what counts.
VRTiiTRY, don't mean to commandeer your post, but thought I'd add this reply.
Just for s**its and grins, I figured to try the fake one before sending it back to see if there were any redeeming qualities to it. Especially since it is coated on both sides. Well, nope, it's not worth it. I touched up one of my knives with it, and if I had to guess I'd say it was somewhere about 100 grit, not 400, and it's not a great 100 grit either. It is so aggressive I couldn't get an edge that wasn't just tore up horribly. I have an actual Atoma 400 and right after that sharpened the same knife on it No problem whatsoever, as I expected. Even at 400 grit, sliced paper easily. The difference between the two is significant.
This is an Amazon link for a true Atoma, for those who may be interested. They come in a plastic sleeve with Japanese writing all over it. The diamond pattern on genuine Atomas are a kind of pyramid pattern.
https://www.amazon.com/Atoma-Diamond-Sharpening-Flattening-Whetstone/dp/B00BN32IZI/
Some people find these useful
9° is very tough to maintain. u/DaMysteriousMustache advice makes sense.
What are the 3 red/white combo stones? Why 3?
Set of bamboo plate racks I just got. 8 slots each. I pulled a couple of posts for fat stones.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z5RKD4J HBlife 4pcs Bamboo Dish Plate Bowl Cup Book Pot Lid Cutting Board Drying Rack Stand Drainer Storage Holder Organizer Kitchen Cabinet (Set of 4) $15.99
Consider a Lansky turn box. $30 on Amazon. Specifically this one with diamond rods: https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-2D2C-Diamond-Ceramic-Four/dp/B07BS6JNQ5
It's very easy to use. I'm a newbie that went from zero to razor sharp knives instantly.
Check out Amazon Japan. With the currency the way it is there's tonnes of decent stuff there. For example, Misono are really nice and even after accounting for the shipping this is a solid price: https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/gp/product/B001TPJ99S/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5&th=1
Yep, a lot of them have some sort of weird technique to get the most out of them. There aren't many, if any, that are as simple, or as effective, as slapping it down on the bench and slamming your knife through it, like the infomercials show.
The cheapest solution for what you want would be to get a ceramic rod like this (if Amazon isn't your thing, then most knife shops should have them, along with more expensive ones). It'll easily clean off any nasty burrs left by the carbide in the pull-through, which is more often than not the problem. They last forever, can be used on most knives (I have it for my kitchen knives and it means rarely having to use stones on them), and are cheap as. I have had one like that for over 6 years and just wash it with warm, soapy water.
If you're concerned about the angle, the easiest method for beginners is to hold it vertically with the tip on a bench, or chopping board, then draw the knife down either side at your desired angle. It lets you more accurately see what angle you're holding it at for both sides. There are plenty of YouTube videos that show that method, if you need to see it to understand.
Limiting yourself to $50 doesn't leave a whole lot of room. Lots of good waterstones for that price, but you need a way to flatten them. A few good diamond plates for that price, but not ruff and finish for $50. (good ones, not crap).
But, there is an option that would cover ruff and pretty good finish in one product that doesn't require flattening. This one:
https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-Benchtop-Angle-Sharpener/dp/B07XJRCZB9
Assuming you go the chosera route i’d stick with the plastic base it comes with to start, it’s definitely up to the job and then when you expand you can look into the right universal base for all your stones. One thing I can recommend is I use a pet food mat underneath to keep things a bit more tidy, something like this.
Other than that I use a cheap ish plastic base, to use something like this though you need to remove the plastic base that’s attached that’s why i’d say to hold off for now
The things i’d advise to get instead though (since the chosera has a base) is a strop, and a levelling stone - the cktg diamond plate is often recommended, with the more pricier option being the atoma plate
I'm going to go a bit against the prevailing wisdom here and suggest something that may seem a bit of overkill. However, this will sharpen any steel you could come up with, and only requires flattening once in a blue moon, like maybe once every 50 knives you sharpen. Cuts fast and leaves an amazing edge. It's only slightly over your budget.
The other suggestions are also great ideas also. You do not need anything over 1K or 2K for penknives, as others have said. Anything more is for pretty bevels.
WorkSharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener base model includes 320, 600, and 3000 grits according to: https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-Precision-Adjust-Sharpener/dp/B08L72P245?th=1
"What's in the box Tri-Brasive(TM) Sharpening Stone: 320 & 600 Grit, Diamond, Fine Ceramic..."
"Q: What grit/micron is the ceramic stone? A: Ceramic is not measured in the same way as other abrasives, but it would be equivalent to a 3000-grit. For more information, reach out to us directly here at Work Sharp Tools at 1-800-418-1439."
I really appreciate the DMT sharpening system. link
It took me a bit of learning/experimentation to understand how to use it well, but once I got the gist of it, I can now make most knives shave-your-arm sharp in about 10 minutes. I like that it all fits in the case, and I can easily e.g throw it in my backpack if visting family for thanksgiving and quickly do their knives, etc. Has 6 different angle settings IIRC.
Some tips:
- I never use the highest grit the kit comes with (yellow), just seems a waste of time - I go straight from the green stone, to a leather strop (just my belt is enough to get shaving-sharp)
- I do a lot of knives for friends etc, some are in aweful condition, chips etc, or I need to reprofile the edge. I like to be fast and not waste time in these situations, so i also brought separately the eXtra Coarse (black & blue) stone for this kit. It's fantastic, saves a ton of time, I can fix up any mangled blade super quick.
- Vary your hand pressure with the grit (less pressure for higher grits).
- General procedure: I spend approx 70% of the total time just on the first (most coarse) grit, making sure everything is "correct", and then I just very quickly move through the remaining 2 or 3 grits.
- It's like Painting, all the work is in the Preparation. In this metaphor, the Coarse grit is the "Preparation", especially if the blade is in bad condition.
- Touching up my kitchen knives, that are already in good condition, takes me about 6 minutes.
For someone who doesn't want to spend the time (a lot of time) getting sharp results with whetstones handheld, this is a no-brainer IMHO. Will get your knives razor sharp with what comes with it. There are numerous upgrades if you ever want to go that route later, including better diamonds and ceramic stones, strops, etc, etc. It can handle knives from small pocket knives up to 6" long blade kitchen knives.
Steelex D1067 800-Grit Japanese Waterstone ; Amazon $25.89 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1MH A Wong : This is actually the Suehiro Chemical 320 grit. The product number is 800.
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> I haven't seen a Shapton or King 1K stone for under $50 but will take a link to the one you recommend.
You clearly haven't looked hard.
The King K1000 usually goes for around $25-30 but is currently available for $20
https://smile.amazon.com/KING-Grain-Sharpening-Stone-Medium/dp/B0016VC46A/
The Shapton usually goes for $35-$45 on amazon but varies a lot and is currently higher. Wait a few days and it will be low again.
Both can also be found elsewhere routinely for similar or lower prices.
The item that made the biggest difference for my sharpening was this tool. These loupe glasses with lights for $16.
You can flip them up so you can see and flip them down over your eye when you need to look closely. I keep a 10x on one eye and a 25x on the other eye. I used them yesterday when sharpening a very dull set of hollow punches and it made my life a lot easier.
Now why are these good? Even using a sharpie to help you, I find until you're experienced, it's easy to second guess yourself and make unnecessary or incorrect adjustments to your posture, grip, etc. The loupe let's you really hone in on what you're doing and what you're doing wrong.
Like when sharpening a curved section of blade, you can easily see if your making a straight blade or biasing one side too much. Or if you're accidentally making a big angle change when changing the knife angle.
Or if you're fixing a chipped edge, an extremely worn out edge or grinding a new edge, it's really easy to see when there is more material to remove and you're not sharpening yet.
Learn how to get the most out of a 1000 grit stone before moving up in grit. The King deluxe 1000 will get your knife razor sharp with only maybe a small touchup on a strop. IF you don't have the knife sharp on a 1000 grit stone you will only make it worse on a higher grit. 6000 grit is only for polishing the edge, but it's also easy to make it worse if you don't have the experience. I learned that the hard way.
https://www.amazon.com/KING-Grain-Sharpening-Stone-Medium/dp/B0016VC46A