What are /r/shrimptank's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

For those of you worried about this same thing happening:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KC24CKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_BY0WBCHVC0X0A21BHJ4B

The Inkbird temp controller is $28!

It checks your water temp, and when it reaches your settings, it cuts power to your heater directly.

99% of the time that your heater breaks, it will break in the on position. Your fish and shrimp will die before you ever notice.

With the Inkbird, you would never even notice it broke, because this thing controls the temps perfectly.

I use one in my shrimp tank, my fish tank, my turtle terrariums, my fungus grow boxes(for the air heater!), and I literally swear by them. Worth every single penny.

I assume you are referring to the dwarf water lettuce right? I've been trimming off it's offshoots for the last month or so to see how big it will get. LOL

I dose Thrive 3x a week and have DIY C02 running. Light is a Beamswork Fspec https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFF07XS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First, I’d say live with it. Although not as pretty as shrimp, snails are awesome. If you can’t live with them, I’ve heard this works: Dennerle Snail Catcher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RBNPEIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7G36CbQYSEADJ. Never used it personally. Cheap fix would be an Assassin Snail but then you have to somehow remove them.

It’s the YAHEETECH Utility rack on Amazon! Here’s a link for it. Just make sure you seal the MDF boards or swap em with something water proof! I coated mine with spray rubber first and then did a coat of black interior paint just to make sure no moisture could get in the boards.YAHEETECH UTILITY SHELF ON AMAZON

Buy this book. And the answer is yes, but it will take time.

Ecology of the Planted Aquarium: A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist

Every parameter you've mentioned seems okay to me for neos, but there's no mention of TDS level. How do you prepare your tank/water change water, just tap water and a water conditioner, or do you add something like salty shrimp mineral powder to the water? Depending on where you live you can have tap water that is way too hard or way too soft for shrimp. Get something like this and it will give you a very rough measurement of how much minerals/solids are in your tank water in numbers. Most people seem to keep their neos at 150-200 TDS but some say as high as 300 is fine with neos.

I remember when I was starting out with my first colony of blue dreams that I would have a lot of deaths from failed molts, and every other parameter I was able to measure was okay like yours. Then I got a TDS meter and found out that my tap water comes out at around 40, which is extremely soft, meaning very little minerals. Also don't be concerned about the orange, it's normal for that part of their organs to quickly turn orange when they die, doesn't necessarily mean they're diseased.

I bought one of these used on amazon and slapped it on my iPhone 8. It has a macro and wide angle Lens. Will greatly improve quality of any phone camera so you don’t have to buy the latest $1k+ phone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6D2JVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_58SxFbN0P6GXZ

Thanks! I hate to admit I’ve neglected it recently.. but am getting back into the hobby.

I think what I have is baby tears? They’re growing really well. Almost too well, since at one point it was rooted and filled the entire tank. I’ve been keeping the light on 24/7 but now setting it on a 6p-11p schedule now to see how that does. I recently moved it next to a window.

I bought the light on Amazon in 2016 and no issues. There are 2 settings -one being regular bright light and the night option is a blue, but I don’t use that ever. Here’s the link: LEMONBEST Super bright 24 LEDs Aquarium Lamp Fish Tank Stainless Steel Tube Flexible Clamp Clip LED light Flood downlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLY9YMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0F22BbVW0WCHM

Get one of these. https://smile.amazon.com/POPETPOP-Fish-Breeder-Net-Aquarium/dp/B08CNBN6NC

Put it in the same tank with the opening above the surface. Will allow them to be in the same tank but be isolated.

Go with Neocardina, they come in basically every color.

What you need to understand tho is this. If you mix different colors of neocardina, they will interbreed and eventually your tank will return to wild color neos which are clear/brown. If you want to prevent this you can mix species that cant breed, such as Neocardina + cardina.

I recommend you pick any color neocardina shrimp. If you plan on doing a multispecies tank, think about getting a cheap r/o system like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/
Learn to use saltyshrimp gh/kh salt to get parameters right. Set it for cardina shrimp. since neos can live in cardina parameters. Get neos first, After 2-3 months if your neos are thriving, then add in some cardina shrimps.

Make sure to allow your tank enough time to cycle! It usually takes 4 or so weeks to cycle. During your cycle is a good time to figure out and make adjustments to your hard scape and plants, in my opinion, since there aren't any shrimp in there that you'd have to worry about and work around. Make sure you have a water testing kit and test every 2-3 days to track how your cycle is going. This is one of the most commonly used and best kits.

Mosses are a good choice because biofilm will grow on them. I'd suggest getting a sponge filter too because the shrimp will like to graze on it and will help filter your water. Also, if your shrimp have babies a sponge filter is the best way to ensure they have food to eat and won't get sucked up and die.

Unless your tank has a ton of shrimp you probably won't have to feed them at all. Test out if they have enough food by putting some blanched vegetables in the tank and if they seem uninterested after 15 or so minutes then they probably don't need to be fed and have enough food naturally building up in the tank. Don't over feed, especially in a small tank like that. If you do it will cause ammonia to quickly buildup and can kill your shrimp.

The biggest thing I have noticed is to have fun with it and see what works for you. Do your own research on everything, even the stuff I suggested, and figure out how to care for them through mild trial and error. Don't be afraid to change up your scape a few times if you're not in love with it or if it's not growing how you want. Some of your shrimp will die early on but don't be discouraged.

I got one of these snail traps: https://www.amazon.com/Catcher-Plastic-Planarian-Aquarium-3-15inch/dp/B08Y7LN9K1

You hang it by a fishing line and then once it’s full of snails you pull them out. It’s not much better than catching by hand but I have a heavily planted tank so nets weren’t really an option, this way they come to me.

No, sorry. At bare minimum you need to get some substrate down on the bottom and a sponge filter. Shrimp are cleaners and eat biofilm, right? Biofilm is made up of bacteria and forms in layers on surfaces. However, they grow best on rougher surfaces. A smooth plastic bottom isnt ideal for that. Some of that bacteria that needs to grow includes the kind that run the nitrogen cycle, and by the time you have your fill of shrimp, they'll make an appreciable bioload and they totally can suffer without a proper cycle. That's also why you need a filter, it gives the bacteria you need a place to grow. Another thing is that shrimp poop, and pretty soon your clear plastic bottom is going to be speckled in shit. Bad look. So get something like fluval plant and shrimp stratum on the bottom and your babies will thank you.

Wrt a sponge filter, you can get some compact and nice looking ones that are U and W shaped. I'll give you a hot tip on a cheap and super duper quiet air pump for it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTSR8Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_WBYNBDYVG8G2ESSE5HN6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Don't freak out that you can't fit all of this in 1G, you totally can. Look at my post from last night, I fit a sponge filter AND an adjustable heater with plenty of room. You can do it! And I'm telling you, putting a nice substrate down is going to triple the aesthetic appeal of your tank. The brown on green is awesome. And by the way, that moss looks really really good

Getting an ro filter is what did it for me with caridinas. I got a cheap counter top one that is real slow but works:

4-Stage Portable Countertop Reverse Osmosis RO Revolution Water Purification System, 75 GPD, Remove Fluoride, Build in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDGTI26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S77JJT2MJ07W5AP0J6E7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Have you tried a colorblind phone app? There are several available. Basically you view things on your phone screen, and it will shift the hues to a part of the spectrum that you can distinguish more easily.

This one also lets you tap a part of the photo, and it will show you where it is on the spectrum + give a name for the color. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.colorblindpal.colorblindpal

My local fish store stocks them. BEST decoration purchase I've every made. Pleco LOVES it, shrimp love it, and it looks cool. Here's the Amazon link (sorry I'm on Mobile) https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/VIV-Aquarium-Ornament-Breeding-Spawning/dp/B014KQMCHI&ved=2ahUKEwjQ0eHk-I7aAhUsjK0KHWBiDTwQFjAAegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw0aemRbd9QQ8C80xxzngTMl

Well, it was the cheapest clip on lens I could find on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZJ56Z?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf Then you sit in front of your aquarium until a shrimp wanders by, and take 20 pictures to hope one is ok!

It's a bit messy right now. The DH and glossos are on the right, the HC was on the left where there's only naked substrate now, I ended up taking almost all of it out of the tank.

There are also a few yellow neocardinia shrimp hiding between the plants. They love them.

Has to be brackish. You'd want to learn the salinity of the tank you buy from, and match that to start. Instant Ocean is readily available to add to distilled/RO water to achieve 1.01 specific gravity. Need a refrectometer or hydrometer. The former needs calibration via fluid and uses only a few drops of water. The latter needs a larger quantity of mixed water.

A substrate with plenty of surface area for beneficial bacteria would be good if you aren't going to run a traditional filter, which isn't required given their tiny size/waste output for few. But sand is probably the most common substrate I've seen.

They need water top offs depending on evaporation, less frequent water changes than other shrimp, and may live up to 20 years so plan who is going to care for the colony when you're gone.

I'd corroborate multiple different resources as some are more "neglectful" than others: https://search.brave.com/search?q=opae%20ula

There's also r/OpaeUla here on Reddit.

PS: Practically no plants do well in brackish.

Clear/brown wild coloration is the dominant shared genetics. See any of the family charts: https://search.brave.com/images?q=neocaridina%20family

Red rili came from cherry shrimp. Orange rili from orange. Carbon rili from deep blue that apparently came straight from wild types.

So you'd ultimately lose both color and rili mutations mixing them, IE, none of the things listed.

It’s these LED grow lights! We use them on our plant shelf as well with good results. I have two above each tank on for 14 hours a day Four Pack White LED Grow Lights

Not OP, but I've got the Xenvo lens kit and I'm really happy with it. I think it's cheaper on Amazon.com though (link was Canadian Amazon).

This is what I use. Empty each squirt into a white cup and search for babies. If you get one just dump it and try again.

2 Pieces Coral Feeder SPS HPS Feeder 13.77 Inch Long Acrylic Marine Fish Reef Feeding Tool Accurate Coral Spot Feeder Tube for Reef/Anemones/Coral/Brine Shrimp Most Aquarium Organisms

Amazon - No Planaria - but not snail safe. Relocate the snails for the short term during treatment and for 30 days after, follow the instructions and you'll be good. It is shrimp and fish safe.

I had a bunch of pond snails, it took out half of them, and they rebounded fine. But for a nice snail, Id relocate them and slowly add them back.

Just get a small fish bowl and feed them algae wafers for the shirt term use new water, not old water. You can add some blanched vegetables to keep them really happy. Again FRESH WATER, don't bring hydra over with them. Wait a minimum of 30 days before adding them back with weekly 25% water changes.

If you have multiple tanks, make sure to clean your nets and such between uses. 25% white vinegar and water soal inna container and a good rinse will kill anything to stop cross contamination. Just give them a solid tap water rinse.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M683JK4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It looks like you’ve got particularly soft water, and shrimp need at least some hardness to do well. I’d recommend either some shrimp salt like https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5RXML6/ or some crushed coral.

Otherwise, I can’t really say if it’s either. Soft water shouldn’t be causing die-off in a week’s time

I found them both on Amazon for a relatively cheap price!

Here is the link to the sponge filter itself ($8.99): hygger Super Mini Aquarium Single Sponge Filter, Comes with 1 Spare Sponge, Quiet Submersible Foam Filter for Small Fish Tank 0.5-5 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XZ831WR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AY6ZSYF8B6H90KZEFZZ8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And here is the link to the bubbler that has to attach to the filter ($15.99): hygger Quiet Mini Air Pump for Aquarium 1.5 Watt Oxygen Fish Air Pump for 1-15 Gallon Fish Tank with Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HKGB88M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ACR6PZ3S0GWYFG5AT5DY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Hope that helps!

For Planaria and scud I've used a trap and been pretty successful in removal. This is close to what we have,not the same, but my bud has used this from Amazon with pretty good success. Also, you don't use the chemical route.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DTVQAVO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_YA9AZVVGZJVGY6H4W9KD

For tight spaces, soft Fluval shrimp net, stiff 3D net is better.

If you catch more than one, you can use intermediate container to separate them, then return the rest of them to the main tank.

Well just keep in mind this, Fluval lowers ph to around 6.4. So when you get cherries, they will generally be kept in around 7.4ish, thats right in the sweet spot for most neocaridina.

if you are investing into this, I would recommend just getting a cheap ro kit off amazon. there is one for 60 dollars, will last you quite a while. get a mix like
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5M89GM
and mix it until the gh is around 10.

the reason I recommend this one is it does not attempt to raise kh. Fluval strips kh, so if you want the substrate to last longer, its best to not try to increase kh at all.

Also remember, test the ph before you get the shrimp. If the water really is 6.4ph. you will need to spend almost a full day of acclimating. Drip acclimate to double the water in the container with shrimp. Then wait 24 hours and then repeat process before adding. Never let the ph shift more than .5 within 24 hours. Its extremely stressful for the shrimp and can cause death.

For calcium supplements, I use Glasgartens mineral pellets myself. I feed it every 2 days.

since you are using fluval, if you go the ro water route like i recommend, that tank will be already built to also house caridina! so if the red cherries thrive and survive fine, it would be no problem to lower the gh concentration in future water refills and add in a caridina color you enjoy, like black crystals.

personally I keep black crystals with blue dreams in my 5 gallon fluval substrate tank.

Here’s the Amazon Link.

It’s 60gph from “EA Performance”, but it’s the same cheap model as AZOO Mignon and other off brand HOB filters. It works great and was $16, so ya can’t beat it.

there really isn't much difference other than, lighting, and the fact that that kit comes with a protein skimmer which is basically useless unless its saltwater. that kit is overprices for what it is, which is an empty tank with a backfilter, then they tack on extra for including a heater(most heaters will come with a digital thermo), protein skimmer. The protein skimmer will run you maybe 20ish same for thermo. That tank depending on the brand and type can be much cheaper.
Hell you can get this one https://www.amazon.com/Hygger-Aquarium-Starters-Undetachable-Background/dp/B07R7BD9GW/
Looks much nice, and its longer so shrimps have more ground.

Hydra. They can possibly injury shrimp, and fish fry depending on both the size of the prey, and the species of hydra. Yours look kinda big, so they might do a shrimplet if you have any reckless shrimplets. But they're only there cause they were introduced in on something, and they have the right amount of food. They'll mainly feed on cyclops and such inside your tank, so cut down on feeding and most likely they'll die out. If not get panicure-c at here https://www.amazon.com/Panacur-Canine-Dewormer-1-gram/dp/B00028ZLD6 This is shrimp safe, and fish safe. But it will kill a lot of snails and such so be careful with that. BE CAREFUL TO ONLY DOSE 0.1 GRAM OF PANICURE-C PER 10 GALLONS. DONT OVERDOSE. My favorite method for doing this is taking the medicine, dissolving it in warm water, waiting for it to cool, and adding it in the flow of my filter

Looks like some iteration of these which I own. You can prob get them for super cheap off wish.com

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C9G49S7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PPKT79R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i was where you are a couple months ago and this is what i did. seeing as it will take 4-8 weeks for your tank to cycle you will have plenty of time to save or search out used gear and sales before shrimp can even go in. to start you will need the tank, some substrate, and a filter. i spent around $30 on 40lbs of substrate and another $40 on a decent air pump, check valve, airline, and a sponge filter from amazon. i would get all of these new seeing as used substrate and filters can bring problems from the host tank and pumps have a limited life. might as well get a fresh one being so cheap anyways. you can go without a heater if you keep the room its in around 70-80F if not also get a new one. when they fail they take the whole tank with them. while the tank is cycling you can just stick some desk lamps near it to encourage biofilm and algae growth until you find a light. if you need a super cheap lid to keep out kids or pets you can get some clear greenhouse plastic and cut it to size but avoid getting a cheap hood with a built in led light. i started with one from marineland that was supposed to be decent for low light plants and it was terrible. led lighting will be the cheapest over time but you will spend a bit more up front to get something that will grow plants. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4FS6ZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 i just got this in a week ago after i saw a review and my plants love it. the last thing you will need is a water test kit so you can monitor the cycle of you tank. all in i spent around 200 dollars for everything over a period of 2-3 months. if you cant afford that then maybe keeping a planted shrimp tank isnt ideal for you right now. like all pets they keep costing money as time goes on food, supplements, plant fertilizers, and medicines can add up quick.

i use seachem fluorite black for my substrate, and i live in regret of this choice almost every day

it’s great for my plants sure, but all it takes it slightly disturbing it and it turns my water black. i rinsed it like a maniac before i first put it in my tank and it barely helped.

fluval makes a good substrate that people on this sub seem to like fluval substrate

The cheapest way to go, but will require a bit of researching, is purchasing a lightbulb that can grow plants from your local hardware store and just having a lamp over the tank. Just be sure not to have a light too powerful or else you’ll run into problems with algae (especially if you don’t run any c02)

My tank is 12in in height and 3 gallons. This is the light I am using. I can’t speak on personal experience of how effective it is since my tank is only 5 weeks old but it was recommended by one of my favorite youtubers and has good reviews. I personally told him my tank specifications and he responded with this light

$25 on Amazon Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC

It’s a 2.5 gallon glass jar I found on Amazon. I’ve found similar sized ones at HomeGoods, but I like this one since the clarity of the glass was actually pretty good and didn’t have too much distortions like some of the other ones I’ve seen for sale.

Anchor Hocking 2.5 Gallon Montana Glass Jar with Fresh Seal Lid, Black Metal, Set of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M9OQUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7SOJEb1SHA7M4

Thanks. This is a wire rack from Amazon I just wrapped it in wood. I can remove the whole cover if need be. The side is a 16" shelving wood. The front is 1x4 and 1x6 pine that i stained.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-5-Shelf-Shelving-Unit-Black/dp/B018YLFJX4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=39FU4VGKXMWMU&keywords=wire+rack&qid=1578797735&sprefix=wire%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-4

It’s a replica fox skull! This one, to be exact, just without the bottom jaw.

I’m actually going to add in some driftwood tomorrow and rescape in the process, so I’ll make sure to alert you when I post the full tank!

heating lamp will help a bit, but it only heats when its on, and if you ran it 24/7 you would have an algae farm.
I have one of these in one of my tens and I have a cheap 250watt adjustable in my other tank, over the last several years neither have given me any trouble, but from what i understand the cheaper versions can be hit or miss and fail in the on position turning your tank into a shrimp boil. I took a chance with the cheaper model to get the adjustable function so I could turn the heat up a bit and make the breeding cycle faster if I want. I have backup thermometers in each tank so I can easily check the temps to make sure everything is ok.

http://www.dx.com/p/52mm-0-45x-wide-angle-macro-conversion-lens-black-175831#.VS4AO_mUfmM

That thing will take wide angle pictures when screwed together but can take macro shots when you screw off the smaller part and use only that.

Unfortunately I can't take credit. This is one of the default songs that comes with the video editing module of the newer Microsoft Photos desktop app.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/photo-movie-editor

Looking up pics https://search.brave.com/images?q=caridina+mariae&source=web it seems most are German sites. So you might have to import them. The other method would be to contact an importer who would be willing to order them if they've seen them available. You'd likely have to pay more as they'd not be able to defray costs from other buyers (importers typically have a high death rate, so have to buy extra to get a quantity, losing that money spent).

The rare mutated color would be lost to the dominant genetics, so unless the two colors derived from the same color, the clear/brown wild coloration wins out, they aren't pigments regardless of other jokers.

https://search.brave.com/images?q=neocaridina%20family

Phone Camera Lens,Upgraded 3 in 1 Phone Lens kit-198° Fisheye Lens + Macro Lens + 120° Wide Angle Lens,Clip on Cell Phone Lens Kits Compatible with Most Phones,Most Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NXZL19H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_N0QB8WDRDBJ284X9AETV

Basically found the cheapest one on Amazon haha!

Thank you so much!!! Some redditors liked the straws and stole the idea too 😂😂😂

I got my shrimp stick at amazon, i got 4 varieties of it (protein, astaxanthin, mineral and bee pollen) The one they are munchin is mineral variety.

Here is the link

SF6004 Shrimp Sticks Mineral 10... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNG56B3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Personally I bought an RO machine to deal with my hard water. I use RO water plus crushed coral and a small amount of decaying plant matter (can also use fluval stratum or equivalent) to keep pH 7.2-7.5 for my blue dream breeding project. It's just so much simpler to deal with than my ~500ppm aqueduct water. What I'd recommend for a 55gal is getting the most basic RO+prefilter assembly you can find on amazon. The $300-400 6-stage things aren't necessary as they target silty, dirty water and provide a near-pure result. You really just need a basic one with prefilter+membrane like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Logic-micRO-75-Compact-Portable-Reverse/dp/B078Y8W3KH/

You can alternatively/additionally use down-buffering substrates like fluval stratum but that also costs money and it's not going to last forever if you top off with non-RO water. Another option is seachem alkalinity and acid buffers. When mixed according to the ratios on their packaging, you can target any pH between 6.0 and 8.0, but that will need to be re-dosed periodically as waste decays and hard water is added for top-offs.

You can buy distilled/purified water (not spring), and i used to do that... but doing it every week sucks. I bought a counter top filteron amazon that attaches to a faucet, and it's much better for me. it takes like an hour to make a bucket of water but Ive gotten used to it, just set a timer on my phone and come back. Then i mix in salty shrimp brand remineralizer, and test w tds meter until i get about 110 tds. Occasionally I use test strips just to verify nothing is waaay out of whack. my shrimp are happy!

Its shrimp sticks. I bought them on amazon. They have different variety flavors. This one is protein

Shrimps Forever Shrimp Sticks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DN47XYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FF890BM1YWJGJP3F87R6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

"Cycled" means that there's no ammonia or nitrite present- any ammonia (toxic) in the system is immediately converted to nitrite (toxic), which is then immediately converted to nitrate (fine as long as it's not super high). If you have no way to test ammonia, then you would have no idea whether it's cycled or not, and the presence of nitrite indicates it either never finished cycling or something has caused it to crash or be overwhelmed- things like removing a filter or accidentally killing the beneficial bacteria on it by washing it with chlorinated water can sometimes cause this. Regardless, any nitrite or ammonia is too much for shrimp, although fish and snails can be capable of tolerating it with some discomfort.

Instead of strips, if you intend to have shrimp, I would get a liquid test kit, which are generally more accurate and reliable. Lots of people like this one since it sets you up with all of the usual tests except GH/KH, and can usually be found at most physical stores that carry aquarium supplies too.

With one shrimp remaining, you might be able to have it hold on long enough for the tank to get cycled again if you treat with a product capable of binding ammonia/nitrite, and doing frequent but small water changes (5-10%). Changes that are too large can also hurt the shrimp. Either way, I wouldn't get any more shrimp until you're absolutely certain that the tank is cycled (several subsequent days of zero ammonia/nitrite readings).

There is also the slight possibility that there might be something else in your water that can hurt shrimp but be ignored by other animals. I'd worry about the nitrite and probably ammonia for now, though.

Check this one out, you could put a sponge on top of bio media in the first basket, then filter floss on the bottom of the second, with a bag of bio media on top of it🤔

https://www.amazon.com/Cascade-CCF1UL-Canister-Filter-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJIQW/ref=sxin_15_ac_m_pm?ac_md=4-0-VW5kZXIgJDEwMA%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=canister+filter&dchild=1&keywords=canister+filter&pd_rd_i=B0002DJIQW&pd_rd_r=d946...

It’s 100 gph

Yeah. It is.

Get this no planaria treatment, its shrimp safe IF you follow directions.

It IS NOT snail safe.

Kills planaria and Hydra.

I used it for what I thought was planaria, but it was just detritus worms :/ live and learn. But it was safe for my shrimp, some pond snails did survive. No ill effects om shrimps all of mine survived and are thriving.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M683JK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ASH2B7SFZBMMW3VD3J6E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I use this product just to keep them in the same water parameters when i cull

https://www.amazon.de/Sera-08580-Aufzuchtbehälter-Ablaichbehälter-Netzableichkasten/dp/B0013Z99XA/ref=asc_df_B0013Z99XA/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=255561464563&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5663174396515675353&hvpone=&...

I have this one:

4-Stage Portable Countertop Reverse Osmosis RO Revolution Water Purification System, 75 GPD, Remove Fluoride, Build in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDGTI26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8YGJ2XNYDC1KZGFYPJ5A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

TDS can be measured via an electronic test pen - you can order one via Amazon or similar. We have this one and it’s worked well:

TDS Meter Digital Water Tester,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NFHS3B3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Don’t get hung up on TDS numbers however; they measure EVERYTHING in the water including things that may not help or harm shrimp. As I said, guides often recommend 180-200 TDS for cherries, and we keep our tank at 315-360 because that’s what gets KH and GH in the desired range.

The TDS of my tap water ranges daily from 40 to 125 without rhyme or reason, so that should help you understand how vague this paramater can be.

Flip Acquatics on youtube has some great videos on youtube regarding shimp care and water. Worth a look, although they’re long and can ramble.

Frequent water changes and these glasgarten products are very helpful. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089KC75MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_5PJNEJ46M161YDRKBJT9 Also you can look up flip aquatics on YouTube. That's how I learned😁

Thanks! I used the Bandai 1/72 Scale Tie Fighter.

Thought about painting it but didn't want to inadvertently poison the tank.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0793M3Z8V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_XPTVSGSQPNMDAHZA63HE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 This is what I got, I will say that it's not amazing for aquarium pictures becauseto be 1.5 to 2cm away from the subject, I got it because it was on sale for £20 as opposed to £30 that most others were.

Yeah I would not recommend using the ultra fine ones on something as powerful as a canister filter. They work differently when used with an airstone. I use these on all my tanks in lieu of sponge: https://www.amazon.com/POPETPOP-Strainer-Aquarium-Pre-Filter-Stainless/dp/B07MHKS974

Find more feedback on what Rio escuro does to pH, how fast, how low and for how long, short and long term. Two contradictory examples are here. If this is anything like Amazonia II, then it's suitable for most of the tap water shrimp, including neocaridina.

The rest is already here, in search for beginner, starting, newbie, feeding, mixing, culling, dying. A lot of reading. Pay attention to the species they are talking about, "shrimp" in my mind is at least 4-5 very different groups while "shrimp" in the mind of another it could be ghost or neocaridina shrimp.

Try doing a medium water change and feed them some glas garten shrimp fit + https://www.amazon.com/GlasGarten-Shrimp-Fit/dp/B07KQBF4VQ/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=glasgarten&qid=1610129745&sr=8-11

There will be a socket for a cooling device, anything you plan to use: it could be small desktop fan or a large floor based model for a greenhouse.

No Planaria I haven’t personally used this but it’s quite popular and made specifically for shrimp tanks.

Sponge box (note picture shows media upside down, filter floss should be just before stones and bio rings. And I just sprinkle charcoal media on top of sponge) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079M732S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_UIUWFbKJR89G2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

OH. Another idea you could be doing wrong.

When cleaning sponges/filters are you doing it under tap/sink water? You should do it in dirty tank water during a water change. Tap kills all good bacteria in the filter, basically destroying your ecosystem and your tanknhas to recycle and you'll get nitrate and ammonia spikes all over again.

It's a cone feeder. I actually bought it for my pea puffers, but it's fun to watch the shrimp feed from it too. I saw mine on aquarium coop's website when buying plants but I just looked and they're not much more on amazon for the same brand.

Amazon link

Aquarium Co-op link

I pinged one guy that I know is local to me and keeps pea puffers (u/mattrap) but haven't heard back. I ordered a special "tool" that's supposed to be good for snail collecting (Dennerle Snail Catcher) and it should be here by tomorrow. Hopefully it works like the reviews say it does, and I can get my tank emptied out in no time. I appreciate the suggestions!

I have this. Works pretty well. Ailinda 250MM Aquarium Feeding Tube Fish Feeder Tube Clear Acrylic Shrimp Feeding Tube with Glass Dish for Fish Tank Aquarium 2PCS Suction Cups https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085F39FZB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_673yBSk3YmgG5

I had very good luck with an Amazon seller who was InvertObsession and is now Aquatic Arts

Here is a thread I made 2 years ago with unboxing pictures, so you can see how the shrimp would be shipped.

Just plain mesh, I believe I bought 20 mesh, meaning 20 holes per square inch. I purchased from this seller on Amazon.

ASC Stainless Steel Mesh 304,#20 .016 Wire,Cloth,Screen,Woven wire 12"X12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C37JSBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_X1hwybGGY1ART

Sorry I'm on mobile at the moment, so I am stuck posting gigantic links lol!

TDS will only measure the total dissolved solids, not what is actually in the water.

Ideally a drinking water test kit that will tell you how much iron/copper/etc is in the water would be best. While TDS is great to know, in this situation I don't think it will help since you already know your KH and GH are higher than usual.

Looking on amazon I see https://www.amazon.com/Drinking-Water-Test-Kit-Pesticide/dp/B01DMF8SH6 Which could be useful, but I'd suggest more research in a kit to know it is reliable (this was just one of the first I saw). Google should also tell you how much copper/iron/etc that neos can handle. Compare the two and we may have our answer.

Alternatively the water company should be able to provide you with their test results on the tap water (I think). It would be good to compare those with your own tests to see if it is your pipes that are the issue.

In the meantime, I'd suggest a 50% water change using filtered bottled water, the big gallon or two gallon jugs. However introduce it slowly. I use a spare airline like a syphon in these situations, even better if you can drip it in over a few hours. This should introduce the new water slowly, preventing shock and hopefully lowering the amount of potential toxins in the tank.

That's my 2¢ hope you figure out what it ends up being! And good luck :)

I am using this https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Aquarium-Outlets-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1488314150&sr=8-10&keywords=aquarium+air+pump. I have it mounted underneath the tank stand and its more than enough power to run 2 of the massive corner sponge filters you can get on amazon. its super quiet, small, and best of all its adjustable flow/noise. as a bonus it will come with some extra kit or you can order the pump alone. i went with the kit so i could get the check valves because i was mounting it way below the water level. if you are running a single filter it comes with a T so you can convert the 2 outputs into 1 and also comes with some line and airstones.

Hello I was having the same issues as you in which my water had a low tds (around 40) and high phosphates so I decided to get an ro unit without the di and I am pretty satisfied. I went with the ro buddie that gets sold on Amazon for about 55 bucks and it's quite cheaper today. I personally prefer this one because I only need ro water every 2 weeks for water changes on my 10 and 20 gallon shrimp tanks so in total only need about 3-4 gallons every 2 weeks. My ro water comes out at a tds of 3 ppm with the ro buddie but if you want it to come out at zero, you can also purchase the di part as well.

It has a hole that you can see right through it. I might not be the right dimensions, but it looks like this.

I have the tetra 3i filter. I couldn't get any pictures of the tube, but it has a thin plastic cross covering the opening... But it seems that could be easy for the shrimp to get suck in through those gaps.

Are you suggesting something like this? I'm looking around on Amazon for a similar one that would fit the dimensions. Any recommendations are more than welcome!!

I've heard a lot on here, and online, it's pretty common for your first batch to die off, the key is if you have babies or the first batch has babies in your water, if the water is in the acceptable parameters that you say, will be born and used to your water and will thrive. I just recently started and my first batch all died I got from my LFS then I orders 10 from shrimp farm .com and it came with 2 extra, and I almost didn't notice it came with like a dozen, must've been born a day or two before shipping or maybe even on the way, baby shrimp smaller than a grain of rice. All of them are still going strong and I have 3 berried females right now. Of that batch I've lost 3 or 4 adults.

Edit: also saw your looking at getting a TDS meter off Amazon. Be selective in what you choose, I got a couple on there I returned because they were giving me extremely adverse / fluctuating readings all the time. You want to make sure you get one that has ATC, Automatic temperature calibration, or something like that.

I got this one and verified it still my school chemistry lab testing their tap water, RO water, and DI water and compared it with their readings and it was pretty darn close.

Professional TDS ppm Meter | Digital Test Pen Combines EC, TDS & Temp (3-in-1) | 0-9999 ppm & ± 2% Accuracy | Quick and Easy Testing For Hydroponics, Ro System, Pool, Aquarium, Spa and Water Hardness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FPG89CE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fNB2AbFRA3C04

It's out of stock right now it looks like through Amazon? May be available through other sellers or sites ?

You might look at using a Petri dish for feeding. I use them so I can pull out all the extra uneaten food. Protip: don’t buy the shrimp food dish on amazon. They sell them for about $10 for a single dish. You can find a 5 pack of small Petri dishes with lids (so 10 dishes) for $13 5 Glass Petri Dish 60mm, Tissue... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPRTL5G

They claim to be borosilicate glass but reviews indicate otherwise but since you won’t be heat up the glass to high temps it won’t make much difference.

So I know you're done with shrimp for now, but if you're still looking to maintain a planted tank of some sort and want that Nymphaea rubra bulb, check out Mainam Aquatics on Amazon: Mainam Nymphaea Rubra Bulb Dwarf Water Lily Live Aquarium Plants Decorations 3 DAY LIVE GUARANTEED By https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752V9KR7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4nTNCbCKV55HR

I bought from them a few months ago. It shipped quickly and free shipping through prime(although price is double what that eBay seller had). Mine exploded with growth in under a week in my tank. They also have a guarantee on dud bulbs. I'd say it's pretty worth it.

I'm really sorry for your loss though, I've been through a similar situation as well

https://www.amazon.com/Feeder-Plate-Shrimp-Length-Adjustable/dp/B00UF68UE2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=shrimp+feeder+tube&qid=1563116623&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I don't own one, so I'm not sure if that is the best option on amazon but that at least gives you an idea of what I'm talking about.

I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post links, but these foam filters work great on my aquaclear 20 and my dooa glass lily pipe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785PWCJG

I have only needed to use 2 - one is on the filter, and the other is ready to swap when it needs cleaning.

Hey man, sorry for the late response. If your plants are doing good with your current setup, it is 100% okay to keep your current lights, just bump it up to I’d say around 16 hours. I have mine set up for 8 am (or when you wake up) to about 11:30 or so. I keep my shrimps lights on as long as I’m awake.

Here are a few lights that might make your plants and algae grow a bit better:

Nicrew long light: NICREW ClassicLED Plus Planted Aquarium Light, Full Spectrum LED Fish Tank Light for Freshwater Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7391M2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_XonFFbRN52YPP

Or a clip on gooseneck spotlight: Lominie LED Aquarium Light, Full Spectrum Saltwater Freshwater Fish Tank Light for Coral, Reef, Planted Nano Aquarium Tank (F20 Freshwater) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_lqnFFbPJASGGN

I only recommend them because their lumens are much higher than package lights that come with the tank themselves. They also have red and blue light, which helps the plant absorb the light more effectively, i don’t know the exact science to it, but I know it makes a huge difference!

I set up a 3 gallon for my daughter. It’s and all in one kit around 70$ pump light beautiful little tank to start and won’t break the bank. Filled it with moss,crypts anubias, and Java fern and it’s doing great.

MarineLand Contour Glass Aquarium Kit with Rail Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFSB6U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MzMyFb8X0603V

Well I use Wonder Shells to increase calcium levels. I just chop off a couple pieces a day since that’s what the reviews said to do lol. And I also heard that you shouldn’t take out molts because the shrimp actually feed off them to replenish lost minerals, but you do you.

buy this or anything similar. you want semi-permeable filter media, which is this.

If this doesn't solve your water particle issue, I'll eat my shoe.

Sorry wrong tab Haha

https://www.amazon.ca/AquaTru-Countertop-Filter-Purification-Exclusive/dp/B01MDLMBKC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=countertop+ro+system&qid=1595965889&sprefix=counter+top+Ro+s&sr=8-3

If the tank only has shrimp, you shouldn't really need to worry about cleaning the sand too much. Many of people don't clean their substrate at all, or only when it's really necessary. How often are you doing water changes and how much are you changing?

There are a lot of variables involved here so it's hard to say, but the TDS reading you are getting seems excessively high considering your water hardness. When you say it's "going up to 300-400" do you mean the water you add in is much lower but the TDS in the tank is still going up? Do you know what your nitrate level is?

I would highly recommend getting a liquid testing kit like the API freshwater master kit so you can confirm the parameters you are reading are accurate.

one a personal level i prefer a good ol two sided sponge filter like this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/Huijukon-Double-Sponge-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01LXRDZPO/ref=sr_1_24?dchild=1&keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1594345781&sr=8-24

(you can probably find a cheaper version if you want, too.) It may take up the entire back of your tank, but it's more surface for the shrimp to graze on and much better at keeping the water clear. The bubbling will also add more surface agitation for gas exchange, and also helps with algae by keeping the water moving more.

Just don't forget to also get some airline tubing. and an air pump. You can get a decent air pump for under $10 and standard airline tubing for like 50c per foot. Just make sure when looking for filters that the one you buy will fit in your tank. (I usually just check pics on the amazon listing and go with what looks right, lol.)

So here's something a little out there, but it worked for me, and is way cheaper. No planaria is like 27 bucks on amazon and doesn't ship prime. The medication that kills these things is called fenbenzadole, it's the same thing in canine de-wormer. I had a hydra problem in my green jade and blue velvet tanks and used this stuff in the link. I took two small pinches and shook it up for a couple of minutes in a water bottle of slightly warm water, shake well because it isn't very water soluble, and then carefully pour the liquid into your tank leaving the small chunks behind. Pretty much instantly I saw the hydra curling up, and in two or three days they were all dead. After that I did a water change and gravel vac, no shrimp deaths adult or baby from what I could tell in either tank, and it all worked out for my shrimps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WRHSJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something I wish someone had told me before I set up my first tank was to try to create low/high elevations with the substrate to add depth to your scape. This article from Aquasabi is a great read!

I'd also recommend using an aquarium specific ammonia for cycling like this, it makes life so much easier. If you do go with that brand I linked be wary of their dosing instructions though, try adding some ammonia to the tank, leave it for 10-20 minutes, then test the water and add more as needed.

When you say you have live wood, do you mean that it's fresh? I'm not certain on this, but I think you generally want to add wood that has already dried out because fresh wood can have sap and organisms in it that you don't want in your tank. I could be wrong on that though.

The type of light you have will make a big difference in what plants you can grow, but I'd definitely recommend some floating plants like Amazon Frogbit or Salvinia Minima. Floaters soak up nitrates and shrimp love to graze on their roots.

Thank you! Nabbed it from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0836L8VNQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

Yes, I got this one from Amazon! The quality is surprisingly impressive considering how affordable it is. It also comes with a wide angle lens (that I could do without since the one my phone has already is better) a carrying case, a clip on light, and a warranty.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY I use this kind of thing. This particular sponge I know fits the filters built in to MiniBow 5 tanks, the Tetra Whisper 3i and the Aquaclear 20

I rather like them. Roomie and I both have one in each of our tanks off of Amazon. Specifically this one. She runs a 10 gal and I run a 20, so they’re obviously a bit big, but the shrimp love them and they’re nice and gentle.

get the version without the skimmer and use one of these on the intake

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aquarium-Filter-Stainless-Protecting-Inhalation%EF%BC%8812mm%EF%BC%89/dp/B08FC55XYL/ref=sr\_1\_10?crid=O9BX4RCVB2K7&keywords=shrimp+filter&qid=1671410642&sprefix=shrimp+filter%2Caps%2C68&sr=8-10

you'l need one of these for the intake at the bottom no matter what

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aquarium-Filter-Stainless-Protecting-Inhalation%EF%BC%8812mm%EF%BC%89/dp/B08FC55XYL/ref=sr\_1\_10?crid=O9BX4RCVB2K7&keywords=shrimp+filter&qid=1671410642&sprefix=shrimp+filter%2Caps%2C68&sr=8-10

One option is petri dishes, I got a pack of 5 sets for $12. I place the smaller one in the tank with food. When time to remove any uneaten food, carefully place to larger one over the top so it traps the food inside. Then you can remove with no mess. Just be careful splitting them apart as it will form a good seal.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY?pd_rd_w=KfoSX&content-id=amzn1.sym.95f91f0b-e1bb-4eb3-ba21-794666ba2088&pf_rd_p=95f91f0b-e1bb-4eb3-ba21-794666ba2088&pf_rd_r=WCWXRYWY044W7H5QMC4B&pd_rd_wg=ntC...

I like the UNS controlsoil

“Ultum Nature Systems Controsoil is an aquarium soil from Japan made of high-quality natural soil and volcanic ash. Choosing a proper substrate is vital for any successful planted aquarium. This is not only for aquarium plants to flourish but also to buffer the water to optimum levels for certain fish and shrimp.

Controsoil by UNS will keep the pH of alkaline water below 7 which is ideal for keeping Caridina shrimp and most tropical fish.”

https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Soil-Amazonia-Liter-Normal/dp/B00519832W/ref=sxts_rp_s_a_sp_1_0?content-id=amzn1.sym.e1d0fd65-dbff-454d-9e35-926f4c285911%3Aamzn1.sym.e1d0fd65-dbff-454d-9e35-926f4c285911&cv_ct_cx=ada+amazonia&keywords=ada+amazo...

I use tap water with aquarium water treatment liquid. But I think im gonna buy one of those RO systems: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08BZTC4HT?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_5FSYWHG33VP6227SRQ47&language=en_GB&currency=EUR And saltyshrimp Shrimp Mineral GH/KH+. Do I need to add anything else to the RO water or just those minerals?

Do you know about how long until she has them??? And thanks! I filmed on an iphone 13 pro max with this macro lens attachment! I can only capture things this clear if they’re very close to the glass but I still absolutely love it!

I have similarly terrible water coming out of my tap and I tried to cut it with DI/RO water at first. Nothing really thrived so I switched to remineralized DI/RO and I will never go back. It makes such a huge difference. My plants do better, my shrimp do better, even the endlers and betta do better. I got a small, cheap system from Amazon that was so easy to install. I highly recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/LiquaGen-4-Stage-Reverse-Deionization-Portable/dp/B00LKF09IW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=3F0ORO9ASBC5S&keywords=liquagen+4+stage&qid=1669415844&sprefix=liquagen+4+stage%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-2