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![Soldering Iron Kit - Soldering Iron 60W Adjustable Temperature, Digital Multimeter, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Solder Wire, Stand, Desoldering Pump, Solder Wick, Tweezers, Paste [110V US Plug] from Plusivo](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ZPx686a6L._SL500_.jpg)
![Soldering Iron Kit - Soldering Iron 60 W Adjustable Temperature, Solder Wire, Tweezers, Soldering Iron Stand, Soldering Iron Tips Set, Desoldering Pump, Solder Wick, Heatshrink Tubes [110 V, US Plug]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51a8NCGvcpL._SL500_.jpg)
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With a solder tip clean wire.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Tip-Cleaner-Black/dp/B00J66FSY2/ref=zg_bs_13837401_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=92GKA9DG5A3S32ANJ6RZ
Let the solder iron tip heat up and thrust the tip into the wire untill its clean.
You can use kapton tape. If your using a heat gun, u could swap to using a soldering iron.
While I'd look at those types of irons (I'd add the TS-100 to the list) if I started doing a lot more. That Weller still has analog control with just a 1-5 setting, while it is probably a very high quality iron, that kind of control is just no longer worth dealing with.
A year or two ago I replace my venerable 1990s Craftsman Soldering Iron with a generic one off Amazon. Less than $20, not even a brand on it, but I can set a desired temp, see current temp, and it will maintain that temp. Heats up surprisingly fast. Compared to the kit you are using, just a dirt cheap 'modern' like what I got will be a world of difference.
edit
Here's the iron I got. Not a recommendation per se, just a bottom line for the features you should expect for a soldering iron in 2020+.
Sounds like you will be doing a lot of desoldering. You may want to look into a tool just for that. They make soldering iron with a hollow tip with a vacuum pump. So it melts the solder, and sucks it up directly (into a filter in the vacuum line). I haven't used one myself, but they seem to make a really quick job of desoldering, especially compared to one of the plastic plunger-style suckers.
I bought that same 63/37 Maiyum and I had trouble with it, but it may have been because I had just started soldering and didn't know what I was doing. I highly recommend Kester 63/37 solder. It has a lot of flux in the core and flows really nicely; it's very easy to work with. It's a little pricy, but you get a big roll of it that may last you a long time. Here's a link to the Kester I use:
I use these and they work great. I don't have to be super up close. Your eyes have to adjust to them, and you need to adjust the distance of the magnifying lenses from your eyes as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PZ6BB9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I got. I haven't used it yet, just got it last week, but the base seems pretty solid and if you only want to use a few of the arms you can unscrew them to get them out of the way. The ends of the arms that screw in are plastic and could be a problem if you screw and unscrew them a lot.
The control box is the thing that takes 12V in and receives commands from the remote/etc, right? In this case, I would say that 2A/22 AWG is fine. The control box will pass only as much current as is supplied to it by the power supply.
I use these strips found on Amazon pretty frequently. They claim to use about 5A per strip. So if I had two of them strung together, there would be a total of 10A coming from the power supply (meaning I would prefer pick a 12V/15A supply, just to be sure it's not running all out), but that's going to be distributed between three circuits. Downstream of the controller, the red, green, and blue circuits would each be pulling about 3.3A, but don't forget that the 12V line would be hauling all 10A. In the jumper connecting the two strips, the current would be cut in half, so 1.7A each on R, G, and B, and 5A on the 12V line.
You can reduce current by going to 24V strips, but it may be more difficult to find the controllers.
But in any case, if you know the setup works with a given power supply, you can spec everything to the max output for that power supply, because you know it won't ever get any higher than that.
Just to be sure, before I install these strips, I set everything to 100% brightness and leave them running for a half hour or so, then carefully feel everything to see if there are any hot spots. When you seal it up inside cabinetry it's all the more important to make sure it won't overheat.
Yes! Do NOT leave it running after you finish soldering and TIN your tips. And make sure when you are finished soldering you tin the tip of your iron to form a bubble over the tip. You do not want the tips exposed after youve finished Soldering.
I personally have tips over 10 years old still perfectly usable because i have been diligent to tin the tips and power off your iron(s) after use.
I cant stress that enough!
If you forget to turn it off, use this: BN-LINK Smart Digital Countdown... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3QEK4E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share And set a timer for yourself!
Also get yourself a fume extractor. Useful and you dont have to worry about breathing those nasty smelling fumes.
I bought this one a while ago https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07542D82F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It was 59 at the time but the price damn near tripled for whatever reason.
Right off the bat I clogged it up and it was a real bitch cleaning it. The nozzle cleaning thing it came with broke easily.
Then I picked up this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072XTXQCX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it became a lot easier to manage.
The easiest way to clean it to unscrew the heating element part and jam the nozzle cleaning tool inside WHILE it's hot.
I do a lot of repairs for friends and it works fine for me except with thick PCBs. It's a real bitch getting some solder out of those thicc boards.
It's no Hakko, but it's also not over 1k.
I'm also going to start learning to solder next week. One of the things I've seen highly recommended is to get tip tinner to prolong the life of the iron tips. Sorry I don't have any more suggestions but hope it helps mate.
heres a good roll that will last a very long time and is recommended for rework.
I got one of these with the LEDs, might be a little nicer than the one on amazon. link works great for me but I solder as a hobby so not for extended periods of time.
Thanks! Yeah, it's a kit I found on amazon.
It was a good kit and comes with a few spare LEDs.
I only had one major mishap where some solder bled into the holes for a transistor. Getting it out was a learning experience. I thought I'd broken it by applying too much heat but it appears I didn't.
If you're just starting get something cheap. No need to go all out. You might ruin the kit as long as it's cheap it's fine
This kit I've purchased in the past when I was still learning. Temperature controlled, has a bit of solder and other little essentials
If you want something better I can send you links. But you dont need something expensive to learn.
I also recommend you try soldering on something else first before you attempt anything risky.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LNZWXMJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Smells/acts like 99% to me.
That looks quite similar to a station I just got. Its a Yihua 8786D. Looks like its basically the same with a different front. I haven't used it yet, and before I do I want to look inside and check the wiring like u/tyttuutface mentioned. I am an absolute beginner though. So I can't really speak to it with any kind of knowledge or experience. I bought it so I can start learning. I need to find some basic kits to start on, but eventually I want to build a Nixie clock!
This is a really great soldering kit for people just starting out with hobby. Always remember to solder in a well ventilated area!
There are internet tutorials telling you to sand it off. Don't do that no matter what you do unless you are very sure what you are doing, which is almost always ruining the tip. Apply copius flux, re tin, clean with sponge (preferably one like this or preferably this,) and repeat until clean. As to avoid this so it doesn't happen in the future make sure you clean off the solder with said sponge after every single time you use it. When you turn off your iron add some clean solder on there to preserve the metal itself and any coatings on it.
The AstroAI RMS 6000 was one I used on loan when I started. I just looked it up and it's under $30 now, was 50 when I borrowed it. I recommend it.
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Multimeter-Resistance-Transistors-Temperature/dp/B071JL6LLL
Personally I like the ones that use the flexible hosing for cooling hoses from CNC mills.
I use something like this at work if I need to hold wires together for soldering, or boards which won't lay flat. To get a secure hold, you can use multiple arms to hold whatever you're soldering in place.
If you're just wanting something strictly for holding PCBs, then get a board holder, not a helping hand station.
As for magnification, get a bench mounted magnifying lamp so you're not stuck having to use a helping hand station to see everything. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Magnifying-BZBRLZ-Eye-Caring-Magnification-Brightness/dp/B07XY2HQ6C/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=magnifying+light+12+x+desk+mounted&qid=1595382330&sr=8-12
Those lamps come in handing for other things, and since they have a light they work nicely as just a bench lamp too.
It actually has a good description, listing the characteristics of the pot.
I wouldn't recommend Aliexspress, but seeing as they all originate out of China anyways, there's a 50/50 chance it's good or a fire hazard.
However would recommend the ones on Amazon instead, sure they may be more costly but at least they are a bit more reliable that Aliexspress.
I prefer looking straight at a monitor so I like a digital microscope more. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K8PVZVF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details but if you look on Aliexpress you can find them for way way cheaper. There are many kind, make sure to get one that can move back, forward, left, right, not just up and down since some can only go up and down and will limit the type of board you can work with.
I've got a fancy big helping hands thing with a built in lamp and magnifying glass. I don't use the magnifying glass. Cheap magnifying glasses like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RNCQJG3 are way better for me.
I use this and its amazing. The magnetic arms are a godsend
According to the reviews this is a replacement for a Radio Shack 64-053 if that's what you have. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XW5HDHY There are also a lot of 64-053 replacements on Fleabay.
My first thought is one that I teach all my soldering students... Hot air does not stop one the pads you aim at. I cannot tell you how many pieces of plastic I have melted from the "waste air" from a hot air gun. I have learned to use "Kapton tape" to cover any surrounding plastic. I regularly remove connectors with hot air, and I know that the connector will be destroyed in the process. To solder them, I use an iron, and for the most part I use a mini-wave tip.
When I have students practicing, I buy some packs of breakout boards, like THESE. They are under 10 US for 5 boards, and I can reuse them until they are destroyed. That lets them get used to working on a PCB without using "live" boards.
Good Luck! Would like to see a pic of the end result if you can.
Smear some flux:
https://www.amazon.com/GSParts-Harris-Stay-Silv-Soldering-Temperature/dp/B07MS8C7LL/
on the area you're trying to solder to, then go at it with the propane torch. You may need to polish off the existing oxide layer you've generated before doing this.
https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/
(I haven't used this product) this is portable in the sense that it is small and lightweight. it is not cordless from what I understand. You would need to combine it with some type of power source such as a portable battery pack, as long as its capable of outputting the amount of power this soldering iron will draw
the silicon usb-c cable sold on pinecils website will be more heat resistant than a standard usb-c cable so if it accidentally touches the iron it won't melt immediately.
I recommend the Kotto with the HEPA filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZHH5H7N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Works great for my need and budget friendly. You probably should also get an air purifier for the room, just an option but it helps cut down the flux and other stuff like dust IMO. With the Kotto fume extractor and air purifier I rarely smell any flux in the room and it's a small space about 100sqft with only 1 Window and it's cold now so I don't open it. You can wear a 3M respirator that the painter use but if you have family members around you should consider something that filter instead of just blowing the fume around.
The weapon of choice for cleaning off the limescale-like water deposits is one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Scratch-Brush-Pen-applications/dp/B07S3RCTGZ/
Hold it vertical, and gently scrub at the board until all of the remnants of the water ingress are gone.
Faultfinding starts after that step.
We might be able to give you pointers on what to do, but we'd need a number of very good (well lit, well framed, sharp) pictures of the board.
This is a little spendy, but I got it a few weeks ago and am very happy with it. I started with this cheaper one, but you can't always get your work close enough to it.
does it have to be a station? I have this heat gun that is definitely powerful, but probably not accurate enough.
It seems like the chip just detects voltage? Damn, I feel like there should be a fail safe for that. Also I'm still upset because I used 12v, not even 24v. There's no fuckery going on with the charger either
You are linking to my original thread. Do try and contact PINE64 or Amazon first and see if they will honor their so called "warranty" though otherwise get the TS101, TS100, or the SQ-001 which are all variants of the same thing.
Having said that, you can use a hot air station to remove the chip in question and the iron will continue working via the DC barrel jack without any issues; once the chip is gone it will safely run off 24V & 3A too. The USB port will still work to upgrade the firmware as well.
Well... does it need to be an actual soldering station, or will a pencil iron do as well?
I bought this kit a year ago, and it hasn't failed me yet: https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B07Q2B4ZY9/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3NCQP9LXASNHP&keywords=plusivo+soldering&qid=1668746665&sprefix=plusivo+solderin%2Caps%2C302&sr=8-2
Seems to be better than the other Chinese ones, that's for sure.
Decent hot air station: 858D
Excellent soldering station: Quecoo T12-956
I own both and can highly recommend them. For the price, you won't find much better.
I bought one of these recently and have been very happy with it. It’s a bit above your price range, but it’s pretty solid.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RVMZNYR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
If you want a good iron, grab this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B07S61WT16/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2JER6RC4FH6IV&keywords=plusivo+soldering+kit&qid=1668636430&sprefix=plusivo+sol%2Caps%2C357&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
It comes with everything you need, and compared to the other Chinese pencil irons I have seen, it works great.
Had mine for a year, and it hasn't failed me yet.
Also...
I practiced desoldering and soldering on dead boards, so maybe you try that first instead of going straight onto working with espensive elctronics first.
Got it a year ago, and it still works great.
Toss that sponge in the trash - get one of these instead.
Keep the iron tip nice and shiny with solder - don't let it get black and burnt. It'll oxidize and solder won't stick to it anymore.
If you plan on doing this more, consider getting an iron with a base that allows good temperature control. I'm partial to the Weller soldering stations, but I recently got one of these and it's not bad! I'm not a huge fan of the stand for it, but whatever.
Realistically though...it's just going to take time to refine the skill. Just keep practicing and make sure you have plenty of light and magnification (if you need it) while doing so.
Yeah this is a relic....
And yes I believe this would be safe to use
But before you plug it in, I would open up the casing and inspect all the internals to see if anything's wrong.
Check the wiring, joints, everything.
I would also use some superglue to close up that crack.
Finally, plug it into a a GFCI Socket and see if it works!
Or you can just get this soldering kit: https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B07S61WT16/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2ZAGFZ1DKSF8U&keywords=plusivo+soldering+kit&qid=1668566270&sprefix=plusivo+sol%2Caps%2C357&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
And preserve the relic.
It's up to you buddy.
:)
Oh boy...
Alright...
It contains a soldering iron, and everything else you need to get started
Get the free manual, and read it thoroughly, and make sure to watch plenty of videos before you attempt this.
Preferrably practice on a broken circuit board, or grab a practice kit from amazon first, as you don't want to mess up the circuit board.
I went with a rebrand of the fume extractor Dave showed in the following video. It works really well for me. They show up as "XF-180" on eBay. They're not really cheap, but you should be able to save a bit by making an offer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffaiKZMU0Lw
This smaller Kotto unit is complete junk:
https://www.amazon.com/KOTTO-Soldering-Absorber-Electric-Extractor/dp/B07ZHH5H7N/
I don’t think anyone has mentioned this, but if you’re using this for copper pipe, intended for potable water, I highly suggest using lead free flux, as well as lead free solder.
I don't like it. Don't reply with how low resistance and compact it is. It isn't. Use a 6 connector push wago- They aren't great but they're safer than this.
https://www.amazon.com/Wago-773-166-Push-Wire-Connector/dp/B07CNNQDMZ
It will work, but I suggest applying more flux, and making sure your joints are nice shiny "wizard hats".
Also maybe try using a better solder
This is the one I use, it's cheap and works great: https://www.amazon.com/Solder-Wire-Rosin-Paste-Kit/dp/B07T2MKM23/ref=sr_1_2?crid=30628XL9QKAYV&keywords=plusivo+solder&qid=1666749558&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjY5IiwicXNhIjoiMi42NiIsInFzcCI6IjIuNTAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=plusivo+solder%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-2
It comes with solder, flux, and wires as well.
Good Luck!
Id say go with something with T12 tips. More expensive tips than the 900m the 926 uses, around $6-7 for the cheap ones on Amazon($4-5 on Ali), but will make your life much easier. Very fast heatup and much better temperature stability.
Used both types and would never go back to 900m type tips.
Heres one option, or this one if you have a laptop brick with 5.5x2.1 jack laying around.
Well first off what is the ferret made out of?
Once you figure that out, that should give you your temp range.
It appears to be made of a Chinesium-Brass alloy, so it will probably work.
I do recommend washing it to clean off anything it was coated with though, so you dont have things burning off into the air when you heat the tip up.
If the ferret can fit into the same cavity as the tip lock, the you can just use the same retaining retaining washer as well, and it should work just fine.
Finally, if those tip inserts you ordered dont work...
Try these ones I saw on Amazon:
Let me know how it turns out, cause I want to do this too :D
My printer: Ender 3 Pro
Soldering Iron: Plusivo Soldering Iron
Good Luck!
Depends on whether its size will be a limitation.
I've got one of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-Flexible-Aluminum-Assembly-Modeling/dp/B07L5DDVKB
which I like to call the 'helping tentacles' rather than helping hands. It works quite well, although it could do with a heavier base as it's a bit to easy to push it around when soldering.
I order this stuff at work:
https://www.amazon.com/Chip-Quik-SMD291NL-lead-free-applications/dp/B00HKJTJ6U/
It cleans off ok with IPA, or alternatively:
https://www.amazon.com/ChemtronicsES835B-Flux-Remover-Brush-fl-oz/dp/B00DK2AY1U
I looked at the cheap Harbor Freight small helping hands, and ended up with this instead https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCP48Y3 The adjustable light color is nice, but I ended up getting magnifying glasses, so the lens on this ended up not so useful. If you aren't doing tiny SMD the lens on this might be enough.
You can definitely do that. If you want a cheap but decent Hot Air Station get one of the cheapo 858Ds which are very good for their price. This would only be used to remove and solder SMDs but for everything else use a soldering station.
The ideal solder would be 63/37 flux core, but 60/40 will be almost as good. The problem with lead-free is the high melting temperature and possible lack of flux.
I have soldered these motors loads of times, and it really shouldn't be presenting any problems; the only difference between when I have done it and your attempts is the solder. This should do the trick.
What does the tip of your iron look like? A long-thin-pointy-needle perhaps? If so, that's the root of your problem (and 90% of the other posts here where people can't get enough heat into a joint).
Cheap solder from far-off lands is universally terrible. Decent solder, whilst not super-cheap makes life a lot easier.
This:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SnPb-T0051403099-Lead-Solder/dp/B09LDG7J4L
is an example of decent stuff.
But the tip of the iron is what you need to address first, most likely.
Do not buy that soldering iron. It's absolute trash. Get a cartridge tip soldering iron with a temp control, preferably T12 or T15 (which are the same iirc). I use this one and there is a variety of tips available and they outperform even high end non cartridge tip ones since the temp sensor is IN the tip.
I bought a cartridge tip soldering station from Amazon and some replacement tips. Critical to get a hoof/elliptical tip. Heats up quickly and outperforms my multi-hundred dollar non cartridge iron https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086WB9HM4/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I picked up one of these last week when it was down to $59. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WP3HV6G I'm still not sure what I will use it for beyond powering breadboards, charging batteries, and just tinkering. Biggest bonus is it made my garbage workbench look cooler :)
These are $16 now with 3 ports. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SQ5Q5HC I like ordering from Pine64 because I can toss on the silicone usb-c cables, clear cases, and contacts on an order with no increase in shipping.
I have a solder pump that's pretty good https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-633609-Metal-Solder-Sucker/dp/B000LFTN4S/ref=sxts_ci_mcx_mi_sr_m_ts?content-id=amzn1.sym.3bd101cb-26b4-428c-a374-bbc211b11347%3Aamzn1.sym.3bd101cb-26b4-428c-a374-bbc211b11347&crid=2KYVYW6HSXZEG&cv_ct_cx=...
Just one of these I personally prefer it to braid
Only USB-C or barrel jack. Not both at once. As for normal. Reccomended is a USb-PD 3.0 of at least 20V 3A. So nothing super cheap. With 65W charges like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SQ5Q5HC for $16 there is no reason to go much cheaper if you need to buy one.
Probably one of those 'soldering guns' - this sort of thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-100-Watt-Soldering-Insulated-Lightweight/dp/B0876H2N34/
would be the cheapest solution.
They're crap for most things, but ideal for the sort of problem you're currently facing.
I've got one of these right now and it works well. It's currently $53, but the price changes constantly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B79JGV2F Soon all the EPR stuff will be a lot cheaper, so you might want to hold off unless 10 vs 3 second heat up really matters to you.
A better fix would be something like this
You will want to cover the trace with some solder mask before reconnecting what was ripped off of it.
I bought this stuff to work on my gameboy color and it did a good job. I just used a q-tip to smear it on whatever needed to be soldered or desoldered.
Just stab this thing a couple of times and you should be good, the brass cleans it off without doing much damage to the tip.
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLACCBSH-02-Soldering-Cleaner-Silicone/dp/B08FQBS97L
yeah but theyre out of stock (and have been for a long time)
id just recommend something like this $12 supposedly 80W one from amazon (at least for very basic stuff) - i've got one and it works great
Tip looks a bit oxidized except for the very end which on these pointy tips have a hard time accepting solder. Tip tinner works well for these issues.
Here is how to use it for best results.
He meant that the tip may not be reaching the temperature that the iron is set to; you would use a multimeter with a temperature setting or a device specifically designed for this purpose to test the actual temp of the soldering tip.
Pictures would really help here to see if the tip is oxidized.
Theres things like this https://www.amazon.com/YWBL-WH-Soldering-Temperature-Thermometer-Measuring/dp/B081GGBDP1/ made specifically to measure an iron, no idea how good the cheap ones are. Or you could try turning the temp up slowly and see if it gets easier to melt. Also look up the melting point of the solder your using, lead free takes a little more heat.
You want a filter cartridge that will cover acid vapors, such as the 3M 6006. More robust/stronger filters, such as the pink one pictured, will also work, but they cost more.
Nice. I have a couple of 900M. One station, one iron and they work fine. I bought one of these 17 piece 900M sets and it's ok. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MF23XGKI've got 3 TS100 tip Pinecils, and one KSGER T12, but I don't see that much difference for what I solder. 900M is fine for a beginner.
I just remembered a very near equivalent is the quick 861dw. Maybe that's available cheaply in Canada? I never thought the shipping would be so expensive considering I'm relatively close to the border(i got free shipping).
If there's a loose return policy you can try return the little 600w quick if it doesn't cut it.
Alternatively you can also use a cheap pre heater and hot air in combination if you want to bother with a bulky pre heater. Something like this
These $17 65W ones from Amazon work fine https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SQ5Q5HC To reach over 60 watts you will need an E-Mark cable. But even at 45W they are plenty fast. To do the full 128W it will require a 140W charger with an E-Mark cable. You are looking at $80 or so for that combo. For that price you could get a 30,000mAh 65W Baseus power bank which would be much handier and useful for other stuff.
Yeah I was mentioned USD
Have you tried AliExpress or Amazon?. It seems like the price is normal there
You would have to test the actual tip temperature somehow; there are several ways to do this with a multi-meter or a device specifically designed for that.
Avoid these because the temperature cannot be regulated and if you are working on delicate boards it can cause damage. Use one of these instead along with your soldering iron.
Make sure it is digital display. Some of them have a little twist thing on the handle and no display. Something like this for $22 looks great! But only 4 left so hurry. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B28JQ95M
I've been using vastor for many years and I haven't needed to buy an expensive soldering iron for a while since I also have a hot air gun for any work that a simple soldering iron can't do. This is the model below but I have an older version of it I think. I've used the same Vastor soldering iron on Gameboy just yesterday for adding in a PAM8302 amplifier, It's quite amazing the results. Very happy with the super loud Gameboy color that I have now.
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https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Soldering-Iron-Full-Welding/dp/B01712N5C4
The cheapest real brass ones I've found are these 6 for $10 ones. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BNJYQ3C All the copper colored ones I've found were just copper plated steel.
For SMD soldering on the cheap you could try these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PT4Z9CV You will want some form of fume movement though, because unlike a microscope, you need to solder within about 12" of your face. I love them. Especially for my portable solder kit.
Maybe try something like this for $12 if it fits your requirements https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076QF1Y85 It's got 15K reviews, and works for me.
Look up Wago wire connectors on Reddit! Just used 30 of them on my new project and they work perfectly and they’re not extremely expensive. Totally recommend because if you ever need to take it apart. It’s as simple as opening the clips.
My $20 iron kicks ass. You just need the right one.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089SKWMPT The tips that come with the iron really suck and oxidize way too fast, but I otherwise love it
Agreed. OP, unless you desolder a whole lot this tool is not necessary; a decent manual solder sucker is all you need. This one is powerful but it's big although the same listing has a smaller one if that is your preference.
To be honest, if you want to accurately and properly sort this (and keep that station), you need to buy a cheap K-type thermocouple temperature meter off Amazon or Ebay.
Establish what knob positions give you what 'unloaded' tip temperatures.
Leaded, on normal, non-problematic boards: 330'C
All else: 350 - 360'C.
https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Thermocouple-Thermometer-Dual-Channel-Thermocouples/dp/B071V7T6TZ
or similar. Otherwise you're just guessing, and you'll trash more value in tips and PCBs than the meter will cost you.
Awesome! I have some flux from the kit I recently bought it's not fluid though, will I need to get the fluid one? Also what are your thoughts on the Dremel 2000 ( https://www.amazon.nl/Dremel-2000-6-VersaTip-Soldeerbout-Verwisselbare/dp/B000QGC6XW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=dremel+soldeer&qid=1661885532&sr=8-3 ). Thanks for the help
Thanks for taking your time helping me. Do I even need the heatgun? If so how about these?
gotcha. 70 watts (that hakko) should be enough. even at high temps (800+) the size of the tip can severely limit heat transfer, an assorted kit of tips is a good purchase, something like this.
Most likely gonna have to find a match maybe from another device like ethernet splitter or something in that nature.
https://www.amazon.in/Network-Splitter-Ethernet-Connector-Compatible/dp/B07QV9QQP1
You will need to use a PCB preheater and hot air at the same time. First add solder and flux to all of the visible solder joints. Then place the preheater under the port where the hidden connections are. I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08P5MLGYG/
This is the only way I was able to remove a USB-C port without tearing the pads.
The thing about going from scratch and building your own is that, with a bit of creativity you make parts work together. This does require some access to tools - which may be the downside.
A weighty base could be blocks of aluminium from Ebay, or something like a re-purposed barbell weight you got for free.
A magic arm could be $100, or a far-eastern knock-off (which would be equally satisfactory for this application) could be $30
https://www.amazon.com/YAYOYA-Ballhead-Articulating-Friction-Adjustable/dp/B09Q8RKJTD
The double-split shaft collar could be $10 off Amazon.com or less from Ebay or Aliexpress.
There's a trivial amount of screws / bolts involved.
Some hole drilling, one thread to cut and some cosmetic sanding and painting if you felt so inclined.
I was partly motivated by wanting a deeper reach than any sensibly priced stand offered (big PCBs at work and wanting to keep the base of the stand right at the back of the bench, out of the way), and partly because I quite like McGuyvering stuff together and have access to tools and working facilities to do it. I can't lie, I was also motivated by not spending an arm and a leg on it as well...
Can you, for testing purposes, come up with some complete lash-up of a stand out of stuff you already have? An adjustable Anglepoise-style desk lamp as a core, and then some bodgery to temporarily affix the camera or lens to it? The attraction of this as a temporary test-bed is that you might be able to do it for zero cost (minimal functionality is required, appearance is unimportant) to allow you to establish whether the 35mm barrel lenses are good enough, or whether you need to go to the 50mm one. If the smaller lenses are sufficient, then your supply problems for a stand evaporate. If you determine there is material gain with the bigger lens and spend money to accomodate it, you do so in the firm knowledge that you're spending the money wisely.
Yeah, was thinking at least 7 inches, maybe 5 minimum, but the resolution would have to be good too. Not much point in a 7 inch screen that's a mere 640x480.
By the way, do you have specs on the power supply? I know it's 12 volts with a positive center pin and at least 1 amp, but the side/type of barrel connector I can't find. Also, any suggestions on lighting? I noticed that on Amazon, that one you posted is frequently bought with this lens:
https://www.amazon.com/Monocular-C-Mount-Industry-Microscope-Objective/dp/B016NUGHK2/
And this light: https://www.amazon.com/HAYEAR-Illuminator-Lighting-Industry-Microscope/dp/B08CBZZZD8/
Any idea if that lens is any good compared to that one on the eBay link? Or if that light would be any good since it doesn't seem to be adjustable like that other $100 microscrope I was looking at which had the lights on two flexible hands.
There are commercially available track / pad repair kits from a number of manufacturers.
This is one, of many:
They all seem to use just epoxy resin adhesive to hold the repair section to the board. In truth, the original board, in its embryonic stage was just a sheet of copper epoxied to the fibreglass substrate. Then it gets etched and processed to turn it into a board with tracks and pads, so the repair isn't so different from how it was originally held together.
I see no reason why something like Araldite or a similar brand wouldn't work
You can get solder-mask (the green coating over the top of everywhere except the solder pads) from lots of different manufacturers.
This is one of many:
https://uk.farnell.com/chemtronics/cw3300g/overcoat-pen-green/dp/604045
which you'd put everywhere you didn't want solder to stick.
To be honest, I'd consider this optional - nice, but not essential.
I've bought a couple of these https://www.amazon.com//dp/B08YDH8ZX3 and they work fine. I would recommend one with a digital display for temp control, instead of just the little twist knob. If you do have any issues with these little kits, it's probably the solder. Most of them come with crap solder. There are a lot of better soldering irons out there, but these are a great way to get a temp control iron with a few tips and tools for cheap just to see if you need something better.