What are /r/turning's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

awesome, but please buy a face shield! they are cheap on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Bionic-Shield-Clear-Polycarbonate-S8500/dp/B001VXXUWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541119152&sr=8-3&keywords=face+shield

This happens to all lathes where the head stock rotates, including the 1624. It is really easy to fix, just loosen the headstock, realign the points and tighten it again. Nova even sells a tool to simplify the process if you want.

I went through the exercise of pricing my work a while back. I ended up with an Excel spreadsheet with an exponential formula:

price = [volume]^2 * [price modifier] * [quality of work]

I used that to figure out ballpark numbers and then fiddled with the prices... (and then didn't really sell any).

As an amateur, pricing was hard for me. I spend much more time on a piece than a "production turner" would. And even if I manage to sand out all of the tool marks, my work doesn't come close. On top of that when you compare my work to a "gallery turner"... stuff that's really beautiful, well executed, made out of exotic wood, with complicated shapes... like the folks that are turning out pieces like you'd see in the header of this subreddit.... well I'm not there yet either.

From looking at your work, I can see clear tool marks in the pictures. So I'd put you in the amateur class with myself. :-)

Where I'm at today, I give most of my work away. Occasionally someone will insist on giving me money but mostly I do it because I enjoy my time at the lathe. I've also found that people love hand-made work as gifts. I feel like they think they're getting the better end of the deal. :-)

Good luck, and I hope you enjoy your time at the art fair.

Here's a link to some other resources, some of them specifically for local craft shows: https://www.bing.com/search?q=%22wood%20turning%22%20selling%20your%20work%20pricing%20bowls

Not sure if this is what OP uses, but if you sand it down to 12,000 using micro mesh pads then give it a coat of beeswax then friction polish, you will get it to shine really well, plus its a really strong protective finish

I've researched this before and found that finishing the cup is not the way to go. Alcohol is the primary component of many solvents so you'll be wearing down the finish with every pour, not to mention you'll be drinking those dissolved finishes....not something I would want to do.

Instead, opt for a stainless steel insert and epoxy it in place. Here's a 10oz set on Amazon that you could use pretty effectively. You can also do a 16oz coffee mug with this set. Do note that you're going to want a pretty tight fit and seal so no alcohol gets under the SS insert.

As for the outside cup finish, General Finishes Arm-R-Seal is alcohol resistant (not alcohol proof) and should hold up to some drips/splashes if you wipe it off quick. Pick the sheen you like best and roll with that. Most oil varnishes will also be pretty resistant when fully cured, but that can take a while depending on what you use. Def do you research before choosing since that's the part that your mouth will be touching consistently and you don't want to ingest anything harmful without knowing.

Blanks can be found at specialty wood stores, anywhere where you can buy quality lumber. Alternatively you can cut up a few 5" squares, glue them together and use that as your blank. It'll have that "striped" wood look but I think that adds some character to it especially if it's a richer wood like walnut or mahogany/sapele. Only issue you may run into is air pockets that didn't escape while drying so make sure you glue it up real well or use a clear epoxy.

Both things you linked are 3-jaw metal lathe chucks, not suitable for turning wood. (I mean you can try to, and people did before we had wood lathe chucks, but why?) Doesn't have anything to do with the size, it's simply not the right tool for the job.

It won't hold the work nearly as well as a four jaw wood lathe chuck like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Nova-Premier-Woodworm-accessories-reversible/dp/B08M8W77QQ

Buy a face mask please!

3M Face Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO6RIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_7k5LCb2SGKFK5

My first lathe was similar

https://www.reddit.com/r/turning/comments/7wvrag/im_one_of_you_now_duro_lathe_first_turns/

This is a tough one. There’s easily $50 worth of tools there but the lathe itself is crap.

The lathe is going to flex and twist because it’s built around a pair of small diameter square tubes rather than cast iron. You’re going to have a hard time finding accessories because the spindle thread isn’t a common size and it doesn’t have Morse tapers in either the headstock or tailstock. The slowest speed will be way too fast for anything over about 6 or 8 inches in diameter. It’s also very likely underpowered. I’d be surprised if it had a 1/4 horsepower motor.

This is in all likelihood a nearly identical lathe on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Speed-Power-Turning-Lathe/dp/B01B7CNSD0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1533557176&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lathe&dpPl=1&dpID=41vjZCNFyFL&ref=plSrch

Minimum speed 1100 rpm 3/4” x 10 TPI spindle No Morse Tapers 2.9 amp motor - barely over 1/5 horsepower even though they say it’s 1/2

Pass on the lathe but grab the tools if you can.

I wear this one under my bionic with the flat particulate filters. It’s low profile and directs the exhaust venting down so it doesn’t fog the shield. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7RAP8/ I’d go one size larger to M if doing it again though. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7RBS4/

US Amazon link for those interested.

Price history for those wondering.

I used Shopsmiths for 30 years. They don't have 3/4x16 thread on them.

The quill on the 10er headstock is a 5/8-inch thick shaft with a flat ground into it for a set screw. I'm assuming that you got the 5/8-inch to 1X8tpi adapter because your faceplate has a 1X8 tpi thread.

If you are going to use a Nova G3, the correct insert is Nova's Shopsmith insert which fits the 5/8th inch shaft.

Amazon has them here --https://www.amazon.com/Nova-Insert-STYLE-Shopsmith-Plain/dp/B009OLZEXY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488929670&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=nova+shopsmith+adapter . But most woodworking tool suppliers, that sell Nova products may have them.

Have fun with it.

I've been very happy with it so far, I bought it on Amazon, but you can probably get it a Woodcraft or similar if there's one near you.

I'll freely admit that finishing is the area of woodturning that I know the least about and I could stand to learn a lot more, but I get results that are satisfactory and in line with my aesthetic.

I rely on striving for immaculate surface preparation followed by application of a rather unsophisticated (by comparison to some of the other techiniques I've read about) application of oil off the lathe of which my current favorite is the Tried & True Danish oil.

I can't stress enough the importance of good surface prep (sanding). If you aren't power sanding your bowls with a right angle drill, you should start. If your lathe can reverse for a second pass when you go through 220, 320 and 400 grit in the sequence, all the better. Also, when people say that sanding a piece can take as long as cutting it, they are of course exaggerating, but the saying rings true in spirit- I spend a lot of time sanding each bowl, like to the point where I'm really sick of it each time I get done.

To clear up a couple misconceptions floating around in this thread, with the exception of certain artist's paints and a couple other things, lead was effectively banned in finishes by a directive from the Consumer Products Safety Council in 1978 source.

Also, regardless of which side of the food-safe issue you come down on (and I don't agree entirely with the article I linked, but it is well researched by an expert), it's interesting to note that most manufacturer's "salad bowl finishes" contain exactly the same ingredients as their regular "wiping varnish". There's a lot of confusion out there about finishing thanks to this and other marketing ploys.

> When the weight remains stable then the bowl is as dry as it's going to get.

Or you can buy a moisture meter for $30.

Doesn’t make for as technically interesting inside, but you can use a big forstner bit to hollow out the space for a glass insert and it sure holds water a hell of a lot better than wood!

I tried a bunch before I settled on these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PQQDV4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had to modify the bottom bracket to get it attached to the comparator arm. Am very happy with the result

Any time you add anything to adapt from one diameter to another you increase the possibility of runout (wobble) simply because of machining accuracy and tolerances.

Here’s the Nova threaded insert that should work with the nova G3 (Insert type) to work on a lathe with 3/4” x 10tpi threads:

https://www.amazon.com/Nova-Lathes-IHNS-Chuck-Insert/dp/B00M73XU3M

This is different than a adapter to convert from one thread to another, it’s made specifically for a chuck and should have higher tolerances.

Here's the product line brochure:

https://www.uvex.us/uploadedFiles/ProductConfiguration/ProductLiterature/Uvex-Bionic-Faceshield.pdf

The one at Walmart, the S8500, is uncoated.

The one that usually gets recommended around here, S8510, has a Hardcoat/antifog coating. Not sure about the Woodcraft link, but here's the S8510 on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Uvex-S8510-Polycarbonate-Anti-Fog-Hardcoat/dp/B001VY3ACE

I have the S8510 and I do think the extra for the hardcoat/antifog is worth it. Compared to others I've used, it is much less prone to getting scratched and fogging up.

Oh good, if the bandsaw is not actually a major component in the equation, that gives you some room to upgrade your lathe options.

Given my previous post, you have roughly $920 to spend on a lathe and accessories. You could opt for the Rikon /u/DavidPx mentioned in his post, and buy a bed extension for it. That would just about consume all 900 dollars though.

On the other hand, you can look at upgrading everything you get as a package.

As a lathe, I would look at the Grizzly G0462. It is functionally about the same as the Harbor Freight lathe, but has nicer cast iron legs (very useful to dampen vibrations) and it also has over twice the horsepower (2HP vs 3/4HP).

Then, only having spent $700, that leaves you enough room to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, so I'd recommend the Nova G3 (<== Amazon lists the 1"x8TPI reversible model for $99 right now in case it changes) which is a great entry level chuck that can do lots of stuff.

That leaves you about $120 left for some other accessories or select tools if you need more than the basic kit comes with.

I researched forever for my first lathe, and finally decided on the Nova Comet II. It only $549 on Amazon AND it comes with a free Chuck (which is an absolute must). It's variable speed and reversible. It's super durable and you won't grow out of it. I absolutely love mine. I got free 6-mo financing with an Amazon Store Card and paid it off over a few months.

https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-46300-Variable-12-Inch-2-Inch/dp/B00C2ASVNY

They look very similar to a set that I bought from Amazon. They are good for the turnings that I do, but the metal seems a little soft (my roundnose scraper bent slightly). They hold an edge pretty well though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N637TKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_B56sBb3DZN89C

If you can afford them, an older US-made RobinAir pump is considered by many to be the highest quality pump you can buy, but they're not cheap. For stabilizing, I use a modern RobinAir 15310 that I bought on Amazon for $70 on sale. It works fine, although it does blow a fine oil mist into the air occasionally (use it outside).

I also have two Glass Vac chambers from Best Value Vacs (purchased on Amazon) in 3 & 5 gallon sizes. Perfect for pouring in a gallon or two of resin and stabilizing anything up to about 10" in diameter. The aluminum pots are easy to empty and clean after stabilizing.

The only downside is that I can't stabilize long pieces, since it has to fit reasonably in the pot and be submerged, but 90% of what I do is small project blanks.

Yes, you will get an increase in vibration, and I think it's severe enough to be a problem. However, there's an easy solution: retractable or "lock down" casters!

I have purchased this set several times for adding mobility to various tools around the shop, including a pecan hand tool workbench that's somewhere in the range of 700lbs.

My only very minor complaint is that the casters are 2-1/2" diameter, which means if you have a rough or dirty floor, they don't roll as well. You can get versions with larger casters (in varying weight capacities), but these are well priced and I have smooth concrete floors, so not a huge problem.

Also, given the forces involved, I would not recommend attaching these to plywood sides unless you added additional plywood layers for at least 2" of total thickness. You need a very solid mounting surface because all of the leverage forces are trying to buckle the surface inwards. If you have some 1/4" or 5/16" plate steel laying around, a large rectangle of that would provide enough stability also.

Yeah regardless of what this guy says the $150 wen through HD is a great starter lathe. If you wanted something a little nicer the one in this picture would also be a great starter lathe.

Edit. The biggest thing is that you will more than likely outpace this lathe quickly. Now if you get it and it's one of those things you wind up never really doing or not enjoying that much, you're not out a lot of money. There is also a set of lathe tools I can link for you. They're cheap, decent and enough variety you get to experiment.

Edit 2. Tools.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KI8CTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q8ZjFbFSVC26Q

You can see most of my turning works here: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPEs1SdvR9HRa9bYJhW4ys3o9zp_Os0kyvKy9INJmeDKP5cDTE1wyBbawcBqZ7oFA?key=eVhiY08tZm9zSTdQYjdQY0d3Tkg0a2QwZU92ZUJ3

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In my case, I make the yarn bowl mouths about 10-15mm narrower than the inside of the bowl. This "encourages" the yarn ball to stay inside. I will try another sometime with the J-slot. I tried before with a router (did NOT work well!).

Yes it is great to turn, pretty hard but not Osage orange hard. I didn’t smell anything, they say it’s poisonous to dogs so I have to be careful with my mini Dauchsund who sleeps in a pouch on the workbench when I’m in the workshop. I have a Trend Air Pro mask I wear mostly for sanding. My uv light I got on Amazon uvBeast V2 - Black Light UV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Y6G469?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The OP does not have this accessory, so I suspect they just had it turned out for ease of sanding. However, an outrigger tool rest allows much greater capacity when the headstock is fully turned out.

https://jet.com/product/detail/4d33c847f5224f9db2c3d014fa64e087?jcmp=pla:ggl:a_nj_dur_gen_hardware_a1_b1:tools_lathes_a1_other:na:PLA_648327839_30263642902_pla-161691736860:na:na:na:2&amp;code=PLA15

Money saving tip: beeswax is cheap, mineral oil is cheap. I got my beeswax off Amazon for like a few bucks for 6 1 oz sticks, and mineral oil is a laxative, you can get it at any pharmacy. At walmart it runs like $2 for a 16 oz bottle "intestinal lubricant" (seriously).

Lathes sure are fun :)

This is something thats hard to put on Thingiverse, as it is custom fit to my laser measurer.

But if you want to tinker it to your need, go ahead: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/66rRWHOAjqZ

(I kept the unused shizzle in it in case you need it for your tinkering)

i know you said no pen kits, but amazon has multi packs of slimlines that are great for practice. they end up being just under $3 each. Bonus you can give them away or sell them for $10 and buy more pen kits \ tools (feed the addiction)

https://www.amazon.com/Slimline-Pen-Kit-10-Pack-Mix/dp/B074FGMR99/ref=sr\_1\_5?dchild=1&amp;keywords=slimline+pen+kit&amp;qid=1625066016&amp;sr=8-5

https://www.rockler.com/seam-ripper-stiletto-turning-kit

this one comes with a stilletto

But I sell enough of these I buy a multi pack on Amazon from penn state https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDM12HW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

So the red handle thing should have two of them and they tighten or loosen the chuck jaws like this, I'm assuming you are missing the special chuck that those jaws go to since they don't have the screw holes like most jaws. I think you will have to make your own handles for the carbide bits which is what a lot of people (including myself) do. There are several youtube videos for them.

Amazon

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https://www.amazon.com/HIDORAN-Stainless-Drinking-Unbreakable-Shooters/dp/B07VSYYRZT/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&amp;keywords=steel+shot+glass&amp;qid=1617114928&amp;sr=8-6

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Or something similar

Unless your chisels are really dull or chipped I would use a sharpening stone SHARPAL 116N Credit Card Size Diamond Sharpening Stone Knife Sharpener丨Home and Garden Tool Sharpener (3-Pack: Coarse/Fine/Extra Fine) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GLH82DP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_2-XbGb5BKV9BY?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Otherwise over time you’ll just end up grinding the down to a nub

I think looking for r/metalworking the 1440 of the wood turning world is a much smaller beat than the GH1440 is. Regardless, you're probably going to end up with a VFD, but you'll almost certainly need an electrician since that's a lot of current at the wall plug.

So, I ended up using two of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PQQDV4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Needed to do some small modifications to mount it to the lathe. I put one each on the comparator brackets on the head and tail stock. They are curved, so I had to create small shims and use longer bolts. But was very happy with the results. A bargain compared to the manufactures light kit at $499 g/l

It's a 1440. A couple notable things for you:

The spindle threads are 3/4" x 10 tpi. Thats a very uncommon size, so you will likely need one of these adapters to make other accessories work:

https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LA11418-Headstock-Spindle/dp/B000KI8CBQ

The spur drive (which luckily it looks like you have, there is no known replacement for it that I've ever been able to find for people) screws on to the spindle, there is no hollow taper (Morse taper) in the spindle like on most lathes.

Maybe I didn't look closely enough but other than maybe the faceplate, it looks to me like you have everything there, what did you think you were missing?

Did you see the sale they are having on the Jet 1221 right now?

https://www.amazon.com/JWL-1221VS-12-Inch-21-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00BGBVJCU

It's at $594.10 and I don't think that price will last much longer, but you could get it, sell the Rikon for $300 - $350 and not be out much more than that kit, which doesn't look like it would work for the 70-100 anyway.

It's one of the Hurricane gouges on Amazon. I wanted to splurge big time and get a couple really high-end ones but everything else took most of my budget.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008B86D6I/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kFS2ub0W1FWEK

+1 on epoxy Two things that work for me with epoxy: 1. Use painters tape to keep epoxy from running - especially in through holes. 2. Try to make the epoxy a visual element - pigment dyes can really make the piece shine. This is an example off amazon but also available at craft stores: Jacquard Pearl EX Set (Series 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGSZCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_2fXPwbX42TRAW

found this one on amazon. it just needs to be a 3/4" 16tpi.

AmazonIt's a black and decker 18" electric, but it's back up to $74 now, it looks like.

An amazon deal of the day netted me this 30 LED one for like $20. It's a little flimsier than I would prefer, but I can't really complain for $20. I haven't really worked it hard, but it provides light just like it's supposed to. I have not yet figured out whether the smaller neck keeps the light where you put it with a running lathe (which seems like the first thing negative reviews comment on for lights like these). The next ones up all seemed to be $50+.

There is something to be said about buying a few specific tools, until you know what you need/use a set could be a good purchase.

I bought this on amazon, and i have been completely happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/SAVANNAH-8-Piece-Wood-Lathe-Chisel/dp/B004MM3MES/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511407112&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=savannah+chixels

I use every one of them and they have been great.

They do make similar ones to the Grex in electric. Here's one by Metabo. https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-SXE400-8-Inch-Random-Sander/dp/B00004YBX5/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519820342&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr2&amp;keywords=angled+sander+metabo It is completely right angle. I believe there was a 2" one on Amazon by another brand, red I think, with a better angle. Can't seem to find it now though. :-/

Well, I never did find the electric, angled, 2" random orbital sander on Amazon. I did find these right angle drills though. A few of the reviews are from bowl turners. Gino: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00339OU4W/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=3341940462&amp;pd_rd_wg=oBi4x&amp;pf_rd_r=ENN5XTK29NAHT4K24BFR&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B00339OU4W&amp;pd_rd_w=QhdDm... Neiko: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XUHA8C/ref=psdc_9022404011_t1_B00339OU4W

And there are a couple different ones at HF if you type "angle drill" in their search box.

A normal drill works. But perhaps the right angle style has better ergonomics, and a grip that is closer to your work. If I ever do find the one I was thinking of I'll be sure to post up.

I bought a used Nova Comet II from craigslist for $175. It was stored outside so it wasn't the prettiest example of a comet but it works wonderfully. At ~$450 new its a little bit more than your budget but it is for sure a quality tool and I would recommend it to anyone getting into wood turning.

If I had to buy a mini lathe again personally I would either get the comet or almost any of it's comparably priced competition. The only reason I would avoid the harbor freight is it's lack of variable speed control. It may not be an issue for you but It's a major convenience to be able to adjust the speed with the turn of a knob. Especially since when starting out you won't be as confident of the speeds you should be turning at and it will be easier to dial it in just right.

WEN has a suuuper cheap option on amazon with pretty good reviews although there are some that say the motor stalls too easily, but the majority give it favorable reviews. It may be worth a look as well at less than $150.

I picked up a cheap magnetic LED light that’s on a goose neck from Amazon. Stick it anywhere on the lathe body, then use it at an oblique angle for finishing to see the scratches, or move it to light the inside of a bowl/etc. when hollowing.

There’s a ton of options, but this is the one I have. I didn’t want it to be very big.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012C240BS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DP1RCbNNY81SW

They make a little tool you can get with a morse taper on both ends that fits in your tailstock and headstock so you can keep it aligned as you tighten the bolts. You can also use a cone center if you don't feel like buying an extra tool you'll probably only use once every few years. If you don't have a cone center you can turn your own little tapers and use that.

Edit: Here is that alignment tool by nova https://www.amazon.com/2MTNA-Acruline-Alignment-Lathe-Accessory/dp/B0064JJ3BS

It's an older style spindle gouge sometimes referred to as a continental spindle gouge or just continental gouge. It shares the weakness of a spindle roughing gouge in that it is formed from flat stock and has a small tang attaching it to the handle rather than a flute milled out of a round bar like the more modern pattern spindle gouge. It therefore should not be used on bowls whereas you can use the modern spindle gouge on bowls. (Note I said spindle gouge, not spindle roughing gouge. Do not use the spindle roughing gouge on bowls).

They are still made, somewhat less common. A lot of people really like them for spindle work, they are reported to cut and handle like something between a spindle gouge and a skew chisel.

https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Sorby-Continental-Spindle-Gouge/dp/B004HZBY40

I had the exact same thing happen right before Christmas. I replaced it with one from Penn State Industries via Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WF3HQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_CGdVEbHRRH8M0

Micro mesh sanding pads are great for achieving a super high shine. They go up to 12000 grit and are easy to use. Here's the one I got on Amazon for cheap: Micro-Mesh 2" Assortment Pack - 18 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJC156U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dAOfEbHZ21Q16

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781YJB9L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Pretty sure this is the item -- currently unavailable on Amazon though...

I used these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094VHRRQL?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. I was worried they would be too small, but so far the test one I made is working well!

So far I've only tried maple and cherry, but I from what I've read oak, pecan, hickory and apple also work very well.

Thanks, I used these brass pipe screens I got on amazon. What did you use?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FXM73LQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1

I bought this Vevor and love it. It looks like you will also need this adapter to fit it

https://www.amazon.com/Respirator-Reusable-Painting-Spraying-Polishing/dp/B0B6TLYZFG/ref=asc_df_B0B6TLYZFG/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=598247608749&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=10001175065558826220&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;...
I use this sucker. I don't have a beard but it works for me. And it's cheap.

If you are clumsy like me (damn ADHD) I LOVE these blue food service bandaids. They stay on really well. The knuckle H shaped ones are great too. I should bring some in my bin to the makerspace...so thanks for the reminder lol

I think the question is what's your end goal. With that shape I'd have hollowed with my 1 1/4" forstner bit to a depth of 5" and then insert a glass liner:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094FW95L5?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

So sanding isn't really necessary.

How about a link belt? Just find the right width and you can fit it to size. Disclaimer: I've never actually used one but supposedly they are pretty smooth.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/ApplianPar-V-Belt-Adjustable-Lathes-Woodworking/dp/B08NPCTTXL/ref=asc_df_B08NPCTTXL/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=509690227600&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=16182330074397091732&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9018911&amp;hvtargid=pla-1235227578391&amp;psc=1

Yea, uvex is the one I use. It’s cheap pretty comfy and has saved me from numerous nasty face injuries. Also it can be worn with a 3M respirator, which I’d recommend too for sanding ect. If you’ve got some money to spend there are some really expensive faceshield/respirators that look awesome!

Anyways this is the one I use, the anti-fog is worth it btw https://www.amazon.com/Uvex-Bionic-Polycarbonate-Anti-Fog-S8510/dp/B001VY3ACE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=YLSXDQUH7TXR&amp;keywords=biotech+uvex+shield&amp;qid=1669869831&amp;sprefix=biotech+uvex+sheild%2Caps%2C117&amp;sr=8-3

Or these? clamps 2

Maybe these will be good? clamps

Wow, that really let the smoke go.

I've only had to replace start capacitors, but I would think that run capacitors would be the same in regards to it only has to be close.

I think something like this would work just fine.

I started doing markets this past year. I wanted something that would give me some height on the table as well as be portable. I settled on this piece from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Furinno-Turn-N-Tube-Multipurpose-Combination-French/dp/B07T9BBFD9/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3HJ2PC3R1SQBX&amp;keywords=furinno+turn+n+tube+combination&amp;qid=1669385003&amp;sprefix=furinno+turn+n+tube+combination%2Caps%2C98&amp;s...

They make a bunch of different styles. Not the highest of quality but I like that it breaks down and stores easily. I bought a second one as I increased the size of my booth to 3 tables.

Good luck with your markets.

The wood specific tap and die sets that I've seen, are 1" x 6.
I have this one

https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-Female-Threads-Threadbox-Hardened/dp/B07WJ71LN8/ref=asc\_df\_B07WJ71LN8/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=475689981997&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=429498245481583323&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt...

This is what I've been taking:

https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Vitamin-D-3-000-Softgels/dp/B0032BH76O

From the little bit of research I've done, it's a bit of a high dose (which I'm ok with because I know I have a low starting level and we're going in to the time of year we don't make a lot of D from sunlight), but if you haven't had a blood test that checked D3 lately, you may want to talk to your doctor or try a lower dose (e.g. 2000 IU) because it's also possible to have too much of this.

That is a great consideration, thanks. I'll need to mock up the placement to think some more about it. If the bench is wide enough it may be that the grinder can be offset to allow for that. As you said I don't see myself turning long dowels. As far as dowels go I most likely would do some pins for drawbore tenons from riven oak. Although those can be cut by hand too.

My real problem is not that I don't have much space, it's how it is organized, at least in the garage. It's pretty big, but we have both cars in, and a motorcycle, and scooter, and there is a firewood rack and two dumpster bins. Also a fridge and a giant store bought workbench for things like a drill press and other garage work. But there are two corners that have enough space to put something against the wall. One is right by the garage doors in a nook to the side, and that's where I thought of putting the lathe bench.

The cool thing is that since the top is bolt on, it can be as small as 4" by the depth of the bench. And since the lathe and the grinder are also bolted to the top, they can be moved around.

Basically the length can be cut down if it proves to be a nuisance, and otherwise it's just a sturdy stand that is boxy in crosscut instead of an A frame.

As for moving it around, I found these work great

https://www.amazon.com/Ronlap-Workbench-Capacity-Retractable-Adjustable/dp/B08DHLJQMN/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Height+Adjustable+Casters&amp;qid=1666964087&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjkyIiwicXNhIjoiNC41OSIsInFzcCI6IjMuODkifQ%3D%3D&amp;sr=8-5

I have them on my roubo workbench which is about 180lbs give or take.

Amazon. Vinwox didn’t have replacement tips per se. But they are available on Amazon from a different vendor. Just match up the size.

This is the set I bought

VINWOX 3 PCS Carbide Turning Tool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DKP3GDW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These are the replacement tips I use for the Vinwox.

YUFUTOL 3pcs Tungsten Carbide... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4TZB5H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Probably a bit of a gamble on the steel quality at that price but maybe worth a shot. If you're looking to make a bowl scraper out of it, I'd opt for one of the thicker sizes though, this one is even a little cheaper to boot:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Square-Turning-Grinder-8mmx25mmx200mm/dp/B07KT25YQK (link says 8, but it goes to a 10mm one)

I remember having that issue, or at least that concern. This tool solved most of my problems with long blanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Curved-Chemistry-Drying-3-Pack/dp/B07W5YJZKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=49QZUDFXVZ97&amp;keywords=bong+stems&amp;qid=1666063105&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiI2LjYzIiwicXNhIjoiNi4yMCIsInFzcCI6IjUuNDQifQ%3D%3D&amp;sprefix=bang+stems%2Caps%...

My first thought was those are probably too wide/short for most stuff I'd like to make. But, that got me started in the right direction of: what other glass stuff not made for drinking out of is made in a perfectly cylindrical way? To which, I came up with beakers! And apparently a shot glass beaker is being sold. I got two.

Do you think these would work? I was think you don’t need the strength of a traditional shot glass if it is sheathed with wood.

Beall 1" x 8 TPI Spindle Tap

https://www.amazon.com/Beall-TPI-Spindle-Tap-Tools/dp/B01N0S29IJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=Beall+Tools&amp;qid=1664295051&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjAxIiwicXNhIjoiMy45OSIsInFzcCI6IjMuNTEifQ%3D%3D&amp;sr=8-16#

Sorby makes a modular micro set:

https://www.amazon.com/12pc-Robert-Sorby-888HS12-Modular/dp/B008ET8X3A

But you'd be surprised how small a detail you can cut with a 3/8" spindle/detail gouge and a 1/2" or 3/4" skew.

A couple of other good resource books:

Turning Bowls by Richard Raffan.

Ellsworth on Woodturning by David Ellsworth.

Regarding Jaws, think that's a question of what are you looking to do?
Are you wanting to drill/square off pen blanks on the lathe pen jaws

Looking to remove the tenon/finish the bottom of a bowl: cole jaws

If you have the budget I'd consider going with getting a package that has a 2nd chuck. Saves a lot of annoyance in screwing/unscrewing jaws. Particularly if your daughter likes spindle turning after school, while you want to play with boxes after work.

This is the set I was looking at on Amazon. They seemed to have several good reviews from sites that were doing the pros and cons of carbide.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0948NQV4Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1

Paint pot to modify

this is what I bought and modified following a youtube video, I think this is the one I used

Converting a paint pot to pressure pot

you need to modify a paint pot before using it for resin casting, make sure you follow the instructions in this video or another one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/David-Lloyd-Tools-Carbide-Chisel/dp/B0B8LZP5FR/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=VXMKZDVWY71C&amp;keywords=David+Lloyd+lathe+chisels&amp;qid=1660928141&amp;sprefix=david+lloyd+lathe+chisels%2Caps%2C168&amp;sr=8-1

This is the lathe I currently have and I enjoy it alot

https://www.amazon.com/Laguna-Tools-MLAREVO-1836-Lathe/dp/B00YX8162Q

If i had a bigger budget I would have went with a Robust, the features on their lathes are awesome

I would say to get one that is 220v atleast 2hp and you shouldnt outgrow it for a very long time

stickfast has a nice kit that comes with everything you need

https://www.amazon.com/Stick-Fast-K575-Finish-Starter/dp/B0083SHEIW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=26PVI59L1OPXY&amp;keywords=stick+fast+k575+wood+finish+starter+kit&amp;qid=1661290382&amp;sprefix=stickfast+k%2Caps%2C96&amp;sr=8-1

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their wood finish CA has a longer cure time than normal CA so its easier to wipe it on, also supposedly its not as rigid as normal CA so it wont crack over time

Ive used normal CA for finish and have had no issues but since i bought the wood finish CA i mostly stick to that, it is easier to apply since its doesnt start curing as fast as the other stuff ive tried

if you want a nice glossy look make sure to pick up a set of micro mesh pads as well, they give the CA a nice glossy glass look

I got a cheap WEN 4 jaw chuck. for 80 bucks.
I don't like their lathes but the chuck has been performing solid for a couple years now. Fits the Jet right out of the box.

Thanks, I just bought this portable light box so that I could take photos of the things I make. I'm just taking the photos with my phone (Pixel 4) and then bringing them into Photoshop to adjust the colors because the photo turns out kinda washed out like this. So I adjust the background to be much darker and less distracting and then adjust the wood color slightly to get it looking like it actually does in person.

I think it would take better photos if I got a less reflective black backdrop like a sheet of velvet, but for now this'll work!

This one might work:

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71390-Safety-Paddle-Switch/dp/B07SGDX646/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=2N8PIN7DMJTU7&amp;keywords=power%2Bsafety%2Bkey&amp;qid=1658176396&amp;sprefix=power%2Bsafety%2Bkey%2Caps%2C76&amp;sr=8-9&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1

You need a drill chuck (keyless or not) with a Morse taper to fit in the 'tailstock', like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Drill-Self-Suit-Keyless-MT2-B18-Mandrel/dp/B07PG8XKXG/ref=asc_df_B07PG8XKXG/?tag=googshopuk-21&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=518802124529&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=16509922835201824692&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hv...

Then you can fit any drill bit, for longer lamps you might need to look at hollow/long bore live centres for the cable tube to be drilled out.

I have seen others using 'wash bottles' like you would see in a lab. That is what I have my BLO and DNA in for use when finishing. I have considered putting juice in one when I am doing a string of turnings using it as a finish. Never thought about using the glue bottle - they seal reasonably well to keep the glue from drying, don't see why it wouldn't work here.

These are the ones I use.

There is a book called, “Wood for Woodturners” that is quite detailed.

Seal the ends regardless of the immediate plans.

You can do twice turning or other projects.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1784945587/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

As /u/Heyashinyobject mentioned it’s all about supporting the fibers when making the cut. You want the fibers you’re cutting now to be supported by the fibers that you’re going to cut next. Think of wood like a bundle of straws.

The outside of a side grain bowl would look something like this: https://www.amazon.com/100-Organic-Grass-Straws-Drinking/dp/B07YFCTL3J#immersive-view_1654982913387

If you cut from the rim to the foot (from the end of the straws toward the box in the photo) you’d lift and tear each of the straws as there’s nothing supporting them. If you cut from the foot to the rim (box to the exposed end of the straws) each straw is supported by the straw below it, there’s nowhere for the straw to lift as the straw below it is literally in the way.

For an end-grain bowl it would be the opposite, you’d cut from rim to foot as the grain is running in a different direction.

An alternative recommendation would be to turn pens with a negative rake radiused insert. This has become my default training tool for people learning pen turning because it's not aggressive, turns both wood and acrylics well, and the radiused cutter doesn't engage as much.

Here's and Amazon link if you're interested.

Do you have any kind of water container inside? I like to fit this florists vial inside. floral tube

I invested in special calipers to make it easier to judge depth. Woodturning Figure 8 Double Ended Bowl Caliper, Big Horn 19055, 6 to 7.9 inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C009GW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_J5248V97KCHH00KZPZ15?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I like to use these floral tubes with capsFloral Tubes

Generally don't sharpen carbide (you can). I think this is why some folks start here. Sharp tools without the investment in sharpening infrastructure. You could start with something like this. 4 tools & 2 swappable handles. You can make 2 more wooden handles if you want them. https://www.amazon.com/Carbide-Finisher-Hollowing-Interchangeable-Aluminum/dp/B08MBRPX3Z/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?

Another idea because I see the first thing I linked wouldn't do it. ("Plumbers tap key" is the search term that led me in this direction):

https://www.amazon.com/DURATECH-Sillcock-2-Pack-Faucet-Spigots/dp/B08DJ23MXQ?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Woodturning-Wizardry-David-Springett/dp/1565232798

I have seen his tools in a catalog but I don't remember which one.

I use the Rikon slow speed grinder, it used to be around $150 but now i see its up over $200

Id look at Wens slow speed grinder, they usually make decent stuff for pretty cheap

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-BG4286-3-Amp-8-Inch-Grinder/dp/B097CKZY2R/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=21GVOQTYBT003&amp;keywords=rikon%2Bslow%2Bspeed%2Bbench%2Bgrinder&amp;qid=1651171312&amp;sprefix=%2Caps%2C85&amp;sr=8-8&amp;th=1

If you do get a Nova, make sure to get one of the packages with thicker jaws- the top surface of the jaws actually has a lot more to do with holding power than most people realize and I find Nova's standard jaws to be very lacking in this regard (they are very thin).

These are the kind of jaws I'm talking about, this set is better (much thicker) than Nova's standard set: https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-JS100N-100mm-Chuck-Accessory/dp/B0064JJCFK

If you can afford the extra for Vicmarc or Axminster, they are both quite a bit better.