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seconded for Inovelli Black. I also have HoneyWell, but prefer the Inovelli..
- light fades in and out
- pilot light on the switch
- works with existing dumb switches in 3 way
- probably negligible, but takes less space in the box
I’m not aware of any battery-powered relays. If you can get any kind of power to the box that is you best option. Or extend the switch wires outside of the box to wherever you can mount a powered relay.
Other less-elegant solutions are a SwitchBot or something that fits on top of your existing switch like this
The dumb dial thermostats are probably 120v thermostats.
So you need this gadget. Wire that up, and it will give you a standard 24vac thermostat connection (with common wire! to power your smart thermostat). Then connect your choice of Z-Wave thermostat- I like the Honeywell T6 Pro personally.
You're going to be better off using a non-zwave relay, with zwave just for controlling it.
If you get something like this relay which supports either high or low voltage on the control side, you can use almost any zwave switch to control the relay, which then controls the outlets. The current for the outlets never passes through the zwave switch.
I wanted to follow up on this thread with what I have done. I'm using zwave primarily with home assistant. I was using a single Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 for the entire house. This was hosted using the Zwave JS add in.
My house is shaped like a U and some of the walls are reinforced concrete. The overall square footage is 6400 SQFT.
I migrated from this to two Zooz S2 Stick 700 sticks. I placed one stick in the original location which was at the end of one side of the house. I placed another in a rack in the master closet which is the opposite side of the house from the first stick. Each of these sticks are now hosted by a Raspberry PI 4 running zwavejs2mqtt in a docker container.
Selecting which controller I use for a device is now based on the distance to the controller. This puts me in a spot where most devices are a single hop or at most two hops from the controller.
The performance has significantly improved. I have some automations in home assistant that will change the state on a lot of lights. I'm pretty sure that if you call lights.turn_off against a light it will turn it off even if it's already off. Now things are happening instantly.
TLDR: Moved to two controllers on each side of the house and things are faster.
Well that's the right way to do it. Good on you.
This is overkill but it'll work. Supports two legs for 240v but will work with just one. Supports 40 amps so you'll have no problem running whatever power tools.
Or go a bit smaller- get any Z-Wave switch and have it feed the coil on a relay like this guy. Switch's load wire and neutral go on the two coil bits on the side, then the box hot and hot feed to the outlets go on the big lugs top and bottom. Just like the GE it's good for 40 amps and costs much less.
If you put in a zwave outlet it will be 15 amps.
I use these they work fine. You might want a gfci one though.
Ha! That's what she said...
Is the extension cable to move the stick away from the host (interference?) or to orient vertically or ?
Wondering if this 90 degree upward USB adapter [0] preferred for the vertical orientation over a cable? If cable preferred for moving away from the host, should just leave the stick laying flat or attach to the wall?
These two, from reputable companies Yale and Schlage, jumped out at me first.
https://www.amazon.com/Yale-YRL216-ZW2-619-Assure-Z-Wave-Keypad/dp/B07K3MN99Y/
https://www.amazon.com/SCHLAGE-Keypad-Camelot-Z-Wave-Technology/dp/B0083GJ19E/
These ecolink door sensors have a dry contact input, you can connect any standard switch to it. https://smile.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=QEKE55P29IFC&keywords=zwave%2Bdoor%2Bsensor&qid=1647214851&sprefix=zwave%2Bdoor%2Bsensor%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-2&th=1
I did a little more research and ended up ordering this. It seems like a simpler setup because I could actually use my existing smart plug somewhere else.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09B22WVJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_84CSXF3HJ4V0RADVSHPJ
While I know you specifically said “not door lock” but if you don’t find what you are looking for you might consider the Schlage BE469 Zwave dead bolt. The keypad is very nice and also have a normal key lock as backup. I have two and they are the nicest zwave decices I own.
SCHLAGE BE469ZP CAM 619 Connect Smart Deadbolt with alarm with Camelot Trim in Satin Nickel, Z-Wave Plus enabled https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQPQMXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_B38712EN0PJBTFTKPX7S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Any on/off switch can be used but you'd be limited to the speed selected by the pull chain. You cannot use a dimmer switch. There are switches specifically made for fans but they usually have three speeds plus off.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZT0AVT8N04ESR6ED4KS9
GE has a zwave switch as well. I have 3 of these in my house and have zero complaints about them.
My fans are like yours (pull chain to control speed) I just set them to fill speed and let the switch adjust the speed.
One weird thing about the switch is that they show up in hubs as a dimmer, 0-100%, but there are only 3 actual speeds the gas spin. 0-33(ish) low, 33ish-66ish medium and 66ish and up for full blast.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_BPKT1YAZVZD2GV3XFTCG
That's not necessary; that's a function of the controller software which you're going to need anyway. OpenHAB has excellent history functions should you need them, allowing you to find out what state an item is in right now, when it last changed, when it last updated (changed or not), what the state was at previous time X, average value from period X to Y, etc.
An option to have a much better idea (which is cheaper than buying a new hub) is to use an SDR (software defined radio) to look for interference. I've used these in the path to identify unknown signals. It really depends on how much of a rabbit hole you want to go down, but at the simplest questions like "Z-Wave operates on 908.42 MHz in the US... is anything else competing on this frequency?" can be answered pretty quickly.
If you're on Windows or MacOS this will get you the pretty graphs:
http://cubicsdr.readthedocs.io/en/latest/
If you're on Linux this works pretty well:
Look up Aotec or aeon labs micro switches. That might help you out! >Hi zwave subreddit. I this fan and light controller which has an RF transmitter in the wall switch that talks to a receiver that is mounted up on the fan: https://www.amazon.com/Litex-WCI-100-Command-Universal-Ceiling/dp/B003ZUXSYC
Are there any z-wave drop-in replacements for a wall switch like this? My searches haven't come up with anything.
I use these for the garage door and bilco doors to the basement. I use it to turn garage lights on automatically and send me a push notification via Home Assistant. They work really well. Generally I’ve been happy with all of the Ecolink stuff. I’ve picked up (door sensors, smoke detector, motion, water sensors). I have the motions sensors in like hairpin trigger mode for almost a year now and the batteries are still going strong.
Z-wave Plus Gold Plated Reliability Garage Door Tilt Sensor, White (TILT-ZWAVE2.5-ECO) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MRZB0NT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5C5AXC1GR81J5ES3RJT6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I run for both z-wave and zigbee with home assistant: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/
Works great
The current preferred method of integration is with z-wave js: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zwave_js
I'm very sorry for the delay response. I see many suggesting something similar to this, but i don't quite understand how it all fits. I want something like this but in zwave instead of WiFi since i have this same thing, but normal all around my house.
I just can't understand how 3 single gang will fit into a 3 gang plate. Don't they have similar "internals", hence they won't fit on a single space? Am I missing something here?
Look at the dimensions of the 3 gang WiFi switch you linked to. It’s the same size as that 3 gang plate I linked. It’s 4.7” wide, or the same as 3 switches wide.
I don’t know of any 3 switch, single gang zwave device. You could do micro switches and use your regular 3 switch but you would have to find somewhere for the switches, possibly in the light fixture. They take an input from a regular switch to toggle on/off. Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQMGH7X/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_865FHPPV22MV091JX1Z2 or an aeotec nano. There are several out there.
Or you can replaced the box with a larger one. I’ve done this where our builder used a single gang switch for both fan and light. I just cut a bigger hole in the wall, removed the single gang box, and replaced with an old work two gang box and then used two zwave switches.
The only switch I have ever seen that can even do two in one gang box is the Zooz switch that has a light dimmer, and a switched relay too. Unfortunately, my Vera doesn’t have it as an integrated device and support had to put in work around to kinda make it function.
OK. Thanks for the examples. I understand better now. The thing is i don't have the space to do that. I have many 3-switches-in-a-single-faceplate situations like this around the house. Each switch control a single light bulb. That is the only reason I'm on the look out for a solution similar of the one i posted earlier on. In this particular case, on top of the single faceplate, i have another faceplate on the side that controls a weird 3-way circuit, but that is food for another meal.
For the specialty switch you linked, You aren’t going to get three of their switches in a box because they have the switch integrated with the cover plate. Do you need a switch you can wash down with a water and a squeegee or do you just want to control three circuits with zwave switches in one box?
You can get three switches like this
GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch 2-pack with Quick Fit & SimpleWire, 3-Way Ready, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, ZWave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, White/Light Almond, 47900 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X84WRGR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6PJSP710QVRXVP83M78K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
(Just picked the first hit. There are many brands and styles available)
And put a three gang cover plate like this on it.
ENERLITES Decorator Light Switch or Receptacle Outlet Wall Plate, Size 3-Gang 4.50" x 6.38", Polycarbonate Thermoplastic, 8833-W, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0FQIS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7EA22W9CNZGKZHEAVSVF
You just connect the three lines to the hot source, tie all the neutrals together, and the loads go to each switches device.
Following.
I'm using one of these with my weather station:
ECOWITT WH51 Soil Moisture Sensor Max 8 Channels Soil Humidity Tester - Accessory Only, Can Not Be Used Alone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JM621R3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D97FYHXXA61WE5XC424B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You need an ecowitt wifi gateway though.
Ecowitt WiFi Weather Sensor Smart Sensor Series (1X GW1000 WiFi Gateway) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JLRFG24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J0YXPVJ4BZK2FEQM3SPZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had read that you can connect it with smart things though. I haven't researched this.much yet though.
That would be awesome! Do you have a link by any chance? If I look up "GE Z-wave dimmers" they seem to only have the one big paddle (so same button to dim and turn off) unless it's well hidden. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighten-Repeater-SmartThings-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C
I picked up an Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 Z-Wave Hub in May 2019 and it's served me well, but today I'd probably go with /u/gandzas' suggestion of getting the HUSBZB-1 to get Zigbee for a greater range of device options.
My setup is still in the testing and development phase so I'm not really sure.
But I've been using this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKEH1BQ
Works fine in Home Assistant (on a Pi) and with zwave2mqtt on a regular amd64 linux machine.
Amazon has a video review that shows zooz is faster, side by side.
Not sure if link will post but it's the first reviewer for the "Zooz Z-Wave Plus S2 Wall Dimmer Switch ZEN27" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K37BNMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3mwlCb80P8NVF
One of the best relay switches I have used is the MimoLite https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One of the features is that it can be configure as a momentary contact.. Meaning it will switch back after some determined time. For Garage door use, quite useful.
Purpose: literally a toggle switch for dry contact closure. Think a garage door or in my case a solenoid.
Meaning of no voltage: clumsy wording. I was trying to differentiate from a smart switch that has an internal relay and toggles 120v to a device. I need something that has a common, normally open, normally closed on one side and on the other Zwave. Essentially this with something controlling the 5v via Zwave.
I've been looking for the same thing for under cabinet lights. I came across a few like this: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Lighting-Network-Repeater-Required/dp/B081VYNF27/ref=pd_sbs_60_2/139-0514659-1241859?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B081VYNF27&pd_rd_r=c449fb57-1bcb-4e41-9a7d-6d9d64516a6d&pd_rd_w=I6o3N&pd_rd_wg=cUh8p&pf_rd_p=bc074051-81d1-4874-a3fd-fd0c867ce3b4&pf_rd_r=VYTASP5W2M717Y9E195S&psc=1&refRID=VYTASP5W2M717Y9E195S
I just need the right 24v strip lights for this and maybe a motion detector to activate the lights.
Uhm ... they have been listed on amazon since November 29 ... just buy a range extender 7 ... Aeotec Range Extender 7, Z-Wave Plus Repeater, Gen7, 700 Series, V2, with SmartStart and S2, Compatibl with SmartThings, Alexa, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081G97TLB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p3MlEbX77DCP9
I agree with u/5-4-3-2-1-bang.
It might just be easier for you to get one of these zwave dimmer plugs. But You'd still need a controller.
Maybe a bit late, but this does the job using bluetooth 4.0 to push readings to iOS or Android device. I have one and it works very well - it's really a tiny data logger for temp and RH.
SensorPush Wireless Thermometer/Hygrometer for iPhone/Android - Humidity & Temperature Smart Sensor with Alerts.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AEQ9X9I
You can replace the outlet completely if you are OK with doing basic electrical work. This GE Z-Wave top plug-in is a smart outlet and the bottom a normal plug.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Assuming you have neutral and space in the box this would allow you to control both lights individually.
There is a custom device handler for smartthings though and that might take some edumacation.
Not sure about other hubamathings
Cooper has a stick on switch that looks like a normal switch. Eaton RF9500AW Aspire RF Battery Operated Switch/Dimmer, Alpine White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004I7YSVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y2K6zbQERR6SV
If a buy a bunch of GE branded Z-Wave switches, such as this one (I need the small switch style) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VYCFXT4/
And I buy a Z-Wave hub, like the Samsung here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010NZV0GE/
Will I need to have TWO android apps on my phone?
this one looks quite interesting. I'm making the assumption that after installing this, I could configure one button to open 1 garage, and another to open the 2nd? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=psdc_7459508011_t2_B00GL6B4GG
Your worst case scenario is to put 2 remote zwave switches up in the ceiling fan. This will require bypassing the remote module in the fan, and wiring the lights driectly to one of these zwave switches. Secondly, You would remove the wall switch as it won't help this setup (wire it straight through and put a cover on the box.) And finally, you would still have to use the original remote to control fan speed. Maybe put a zwave scene controller panel over the unused wall switch box.
If you open the wall switch box and you find that 14-3 wire was run between the switch and fan, then your options just got alot better. You could expand the box to be 2 gangs, Put in a zwave switch for the lights, zwave fan controller, and send the power down that the black wire, and the other the red. You'll still have to bypass the fan's remote control module, but now for the fan and the lights as the zwave in wall fan controller will handle the speed.
It's definitely a switch and not a dimmer (specifically this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JjFwybQJGCRY8), leaving the light in didn't help, and the light works (comes on instantly) since I put the original switch back in place.
This outlet has a zwave switched receptacle and always on receptacle:
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-Z-Wave-Wireless-Resistant-Receptacles/dp/B013RYRP8U
The switched receptacle looks like it provides energy usage.
Not a great answer since it's not compatible with your wink hub but might point you in the right direction: August Smart Lock. It can retrofit existing deadbolts but uses its own app technology. The other devices like this I've seen get similarly poor reviews, but might be OK depending on how secure you need it to be and if you don't mind it not integrating. I don't think you have many options without replacing the deadbolt.