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With wildlife photography you need reach, which is why crop is not a bad idea :)
Why do you want to upgrade to fullframe? What are you missing? Hoping to achieve?
For landscape you wont have special needs. Just look for prices with your needed zoom lenses.
With Canon you could also use adapted EF glas.
Canon has just released an RF 100-400 but also has an rf 600mm and 800mm.
Still, a Tamron SP AF150-600mm and a D3200 can produce great pictures
As someone that owns the 28mm AND I just got, yesterday, the 35mm 2.8, I'll be happy to share my experience with you. In about 2 weeks when I've had enough time with the 35mm. :-p
There's something indescribable about the 35mm focal length that makes it my FAVORITE focal length. I've enjoyed using the 28mm and it was an awesome inexpensive lens and I love the size. However, when I removed the hood from the 35mm it becomes even tinier than the 28mm, and I'm really excited about that. Almost makes the camera pocketable... if you still wear JNCO pants, that is.
Anyway, I'm rambling. If price is a big factor for you, then you'll probably want the 28mm. But don't let the difference between f2 and f2.8 drive your decision. That's not really a big deal. Check out a bunch of photos from each lens paired with the A7.
A7+35mm F2.8: https://explorecams.com/photos/pair/ilce-7=sony-fe-35mm-f2-8-za-1
A7+28mm F2: https://explorecams.com/photos/pair/ilce-7=fe-28mm-f2
Truth is, they're both awesome lenses and you can't go wrong. :D
Here is a site I go to for my specific camera and lens'... I think you can enter your camera and lens also
There are a LOT of pictures and when you click on them, it will tell you the camera seetings used for that particular picture.
It helps me a bit since I am new to all this...
Hope it helps:
I found links in your comment that were not hyperlinked:
I did the honors for you.
^delete ^| ^information ^| ^<3
I think you want to look into buying a AF-S 35mm f/1.8, on a crop sensor like the D3100 it's the equivalent to 52mm on a full frame (I used to use a D3300 and the 35mm lived on my camera 95% of the time, the nifty fifty range is so useful). This is a workhorse lens despite being so affordable compared to other lenses.
I don't know what you mean about your 50mm not having auto focus, even my cheaper Nikkor lenses supported auto focus and I usually used Aperture priority or Shutter priority modes, but if you're shooting pictures of kids running around I'd probably keep it on auto focus and set the dial to [S], locking in a speed like 1/50th or 1/100th of a second.
A Nikkor AF-S DX 35mm f/1.8g lens (don't buy the FX) will run about 150-200 USD. Here are some example photos of the lens on D3100 bodies: https://explorecams.com/photos/pair/nikon-d3100=af-s-dx-nikkor-35mm-f-1-8g
I see a small issue with both photos and the solution is the same thing.
In the outdoor photo, the horse is quite clear! But so is the sign behind the horse. That's distracting and not optimal.
The indoor photo is actually a much better photo in my opinion because it has a nice background and the subject is the dominant component in the image. I see what you mean about a little grain, however.
I also know what you mean about motion.
The solution to these probably isn't flash. Using a wireless strobe at an event like this is VERY VERY difficult and I don't think would be practical for this kind of event. Using an on-camera flash might help a little as a fill light, but you don't want to use it for primary lighting and therefore motion blur will still be exactly as much an issue as it is today.
The solution is this:
1) Wider aperture - This both increases shutter speed by allowing more light, AND it increases background blur ("bokeh") allowing you to isolate a subject.
2) Faster ISO - You can also use a faster (higher number) ISO to get the best possible images in dark scenes.
The problem with both of these options is that they require new equipment. And some of it will NOT be cheap.
Here is a similar photo with professional-quality equipment:
https://explorecams.com/photo/8606879/
Now, this is almost $10,000 in gear, so you might not reasonably expect to get here.
However, if you were to look into a 300mm f/4 lens or a camera body that does better low light (higher ISO) performance, you might cross a threshold of "acceptable" for only maybe $1,000.
Which lens are you using today?
If I had to guess, I would say it's a 200mm or 300mm at f/5.6.
I upgraded from T2i to 7D and 70D (2 bodies) and then 7D mark II and 80D. Am I happy with the sensor performance of my current cameras? Sure! Would I like more? Of course!
As you have noticed, choosing full frame is going to mean compromising in other areas which could make the difference between getting the shot you want or not. The 6D mark II might have the right specs to be a contender, but that is currently unknown and so is the price!
I think you'd be sufficiently happy with the improvements to be found in the 80D or 7D mark II, but if you have doubts you could hire or borrow one for a while.
That said, I also agree with the other poster who suggests that lenses are likely to yield more bang for buck by allowing you to shoot at lower ISOs. Something else to think about.
Edit to add an example shot (not mine) from the 80D at ISO 5000. The page took so long to load I forgot all about it!
ExploreCams - Not Flickr, it indexes 500px but it does exactly what you're asking.
Not too many shots in that combo but you can either remove the camera or change it to a 60D/70D/Whatever
Was just exploring some pictures taken with it + the Nikon D7000 and they look very nice indeed, seems to be a quite versatile lens and good even for astrophotography. https://explorecams.com/photos/pair/nikon-d7000=tokina-at-x-116-pro-dx-ii-af-11-16mm-f-2-8
I was thinking about upgrading to a full-frame a while ago but now with the Zs I've decided to wait a few years more and save up so I can do a proper switch one day (big investment, body + replace all lenses with Z lenses). So for now I wanted some more budget-friendly with a short focal-length since that's the big thing missing in my gear
It's a Canon APS-C-camera, so it works with all the EF (full frame) and EF-S (crop) lenses you could already use on the 700D. It's just that the super-high pixel density means that imperfect glass shows up a little more.
Some people like to use EF glass on the EF-S bodies already because it means imperfections near the edges get "cropped off" automatically. Also, you'll find that there are next to no sealed EF-S lenses, in case that matters to you.
Personally my main lens on the 80D is Tamron's 70-200 f2.8 VC G1 (Canon-performance, half the price), but I still have the 24mm Pancake (EF-S lens), my mains are only full frame because I want/need sealing or because there's no alternative (300/4 IS).
I couldn't find examples with the 90, but on the 80 the Pancake works fine.
The 700 was my trusty workhorse for a while, after I almost killed it at a rally (so. much. dust.) I went and first got a sealed lens and later a sealed body to match, plus RAW-burst was a little...slim. I've considered getting the 90, but I think I'm more likely to eventually grab a 5D4 or 1DX2. Cameras don't have it easy with me, getting regularly rained on, dusted, sprayed with water or other such (ab)use. So far nothing I threw at my 80D (or threw it at, physically) fazed it, so I think you'll be very very happy with the 90. Just don't listen to the "it's not mirrorless/FF"-crowd. The 80 still does very much fine*, so the 90 will be too, for years to come.
*taken with mine, just last weekend.
It's physics, they don't get worse as time progresses.
They might not hold as many bragging points anymore, but they still let you take pretty decent photos. (example is the 2.8 Mk1, which is 19 years old now)
Have you checked out this page?
You can dial in a camera and lens (or just a lens) and see results other people had with it. The link gets you the 5D3 and 50/1.8STM, but you can change it with the search bar.
Or have him look at sample images taken with cameras that are worse than the specs on his current camera. For example, The Nikon D2Hs came out in 2005. Check out some of the sample images here: https://explorecams.com/photos/model/nikon-d2hs
As so many have said before, it's not the camera, it's the photographer.
u/imdaboii u/jimmystar889
Here's a few, I probably haven't exhausted the capabilities of the set yet.
All with the 80D and 70-200 G1, all handheld on Servo-AF. Note that the rally cars in the rain and dog in the water were my first weekend with the setup:
https://imgur.com/a/BexXGUj
I think you're overestimating the distortion from 24mm on an APS-C sensor (like the one in the 2000D). You're probably thinking of old GoPro-footage, where the whole horizon is curved. They had a focal length of ~6mm, not 24. On this, it's barely noticable.
I couldn't find 2000D-24mm-photos this fast, but Explorecams (very much recommended site) has a bunch taken with the 24mm pancake.
They look fine to me.
You dont need a nice or new camera to learn photography. Something like the Canon 1000D which is 10MP camera from 2008 is a great place to start/learn and can be purchased used with a kit lens for ~$100.
As you can see here the 1000D can still take great pictures, and you will learn a lot more about photography than using a phone. 10MP is still plenty in a time when most people view media on their phone.
The effect is called bokeh. Using a lens with long focal length and large aperture would result in foreground and background blur as well as a short depth of focus
The lens he used is probably similar to a 400mm f/2.8.
Here are some photos taken with this lens.
I've not used either of the lenses that you're contemplating. However, I have used the Canon EF 300mm f/4L IS USM on a crop-sensor body (two, actually; my wife's old EOS 100D (Rebel SL1) and her current EOS M50 using an adapter). It performs flawlessly on both.
Actually, in some cases, it can work better; most full-frame lenses are only sharp in the middle portion of the frame when shooting with the aperture wide open. Similarly, most lenses have some vignetting when used with the aperture wide open, requiring you to stop down to lighten up the corners. Since you're shooting with a smaller sensor, you are only going to be seeing the sharpest and lightest portion of the image circle the lens presents.
By all accounts, the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM is a fantastic lens. I found a website that shows example photos of any camera + lens pair; there's plenty of example photos from the 80D with that 70-200mm lens.
EDIT: not knocking Sigma lenses at all; my own long lens is a Sigma 120-400mm f/4.5-5.6 DG OS HSM; I get good shots from it. Just in this case, I think the 70-200mm f/2.8 is likely to be the better lens for what you want to do, and gives you the option to move up to a full-frame camera at a later date.
The 350D seems far from bad:
https://explorecams.com/photos/model/canon-eos-350d
Of course, AF-speed and low light will not be up to modern standard, but it's alright for a start.
Alternatively, consider a 700D, it's a really good price/performance entry-level allrounder.
I’ve been looking for info related to this myself.
Have across this - https://explorecams.com/model/gr-ii
So will be trying it out with the most common ones.
Will go with what _bluequartz suggested for bright daylight and compare results
Huh.
Weird.
Sorry about that, try this one: https://explorecams.com/photos/pair/canon-eos-5d-mark-iv=sigma-85mm-f-1-4-ex-dg-hsm
Worked perfectly fine for me.
The place is called "explorecams.com", and lets you put a body or a body-lens-combination into a search-bar and see a bunch of photos taken with whatever you specified, along with data like focal-length (pointless on a prime), ISO, f/ and exposure.
You might also find success here, dial in your combination and see what comes up. More helpful since most images list the settings (currently using it myself to help decide):
https://explorecams.com/photos/pair/canon-eos-80d=canon-ef-300mm-f-4l-is
https://explorecams.com will condense flickr, 500px and others to bring you a search by cam.
but 90's, man... that's hard. you will need to thing just the work to do this. you will need someone to take the picture, do a good drum scan of the negative, color grade, write the EXiF data and then publish with CC... I don't think that this would be very common.
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I had a HP Photosmart on the early 2000's. Looking for the samples on Explorecams and flickr, I rekon that most people were better photographers than I was at the time, cause my photos with it were shit and there are some passable photos published. so there are some publishing bias there.
D300 is a pro body, and that's a great lens. I know a couple of pro concert photogs that held on to their D300's well into 2016. You'll be missing video, but as a photo camera it's a great learning camera. If I were to buy a camera for someone that wanted to learn on a pro layout, this is the camera I would look for. It's in expensive and produces phenomenal images. Here's what that lens and body combo get you; Explore Cams D300 with Tamron 17-50.
> Is it good,image quality,her,night shifts and better options than that.
About all I understand from this is asking whether or not it has good image quality. For what it is, I would say yes.
That's a tough ask. You want a comparison of sharpness using no charts. Time for a chart! At 55mm, the 55-250mm is sharper. It is also a stop brighter so you can open the 55-250mm up and still keep some of that sharpness advantage at F4. Apart from this, the focal lengths are all different so comparison of sharpness isn't really useful. I know my telephoto lens is crazy sharp, but that doesn't help me if the subject is just a couple of feet away. A good place to look for real world examples taken with different cameras and lenses is here.
> I believe instagram and facebook strip exif don't they?
They didn't say they looked at Instagram or Facebook, only "an assortment of websites, including Flickr, 500px and Pixabay."