What are /r/4x4's favorite Products & Services?

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They sell a shackle point that fits a 2” hitch. Here is one buy Curt. Just don’t buy some cheap bullshit one go with a big brand.

CURT 45832 D-Ring Shackle Mount Trailer Hitch, Fits 2-Inch Receiver, 13,000 lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QMWBSL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Igb-DbPEYX0ZM

Not videos but books.

https://www.amazon.com/Four-Wheelers-Bible-2nd-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760335303/

The catch phrase is "Slow as possible, fast as necessary".

Really most of the knowledge has to be in the spotter. The driver just has to follow directions.

If you've ever had a good spotter and a bad spotter the difference is night and day.

It's the tires I think, need to be wider and a bit slicker.

Here in Dubai, no one goes dune bashing with tires like those, they mostly use these.

A pic

Kendas are cheap and they have a pretty good rep for dirt bikes though their truck line is newer. https://www.amazon.com/31x10-50R15LT-Kenda-Klever-KR29-120Q/dp/B01D2AVV20. Also these came with drop out 3rd members. Certain years the front 3rd is the same as the rear 3rds so you can get a cheap stock limited slip to throw in the front as well.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.osmand.plus

Open Street Map based App, support offline navigation. I'm using it for hiking and car navigation, on and offroad. You can even navigate along a imported gpx track

No, but went and saw this Samurai a couple days ago - I'm smitten for sammies now. It's for pretty much off road only so I had to skip, but please some one buy this and take pics of it on some hill side for me

Thanks guys. This controls all my lights, and damn in the bush in pitchblack it makes a massive difference.
Simular, its a VOSWITCH, nice unit and waterproof, plus you can put on your own buttons and has several modes. https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07VZYG6Z2/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Semi trucks use spring hangers (hose tenders) to support their air hoses. Maybe you could rig up something like that.

This is what I use. Works like a dream.

https://www.amazon.ca/Buyers-Products-RC10S-Small-Rubber/dp/B000FL45TG/ref=asc_df_B000FL45TG/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341629984932&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17812063857205016348&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...

Edit: Sun and high temperatures are not a problem for me, at all. Live in Sub-Arctic Boreal Zone.

My tip if you don’t already know: before you go anywhere, google what psi your tires should be at for the terrain you are handling. A lot of newbies don’t air down their tires at all/enough/properly and that’s like the #1 way people get stuck! I like to have something like this in each car so I can air back up to highway psi easily when I am done

I'm not sure about the bumpers, but they're really stout and well built.

These are the shackles I'm running. They're quite a bit larger than typical shackle. the pins are a little bigger and they completely fill the holes in the recovery points.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V2NMQ1X

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQFVN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ENAcGbB7VW2N8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Kit is pricey, but has everything you could need including wiring for interior mounted switch.

I have a harbor freight winch that came with an isolator switch that I mounted under the hood that works well. I just turn the knob to allow the winch to connect to the battery before I head out, and shut it back off once I get home.

Relays use low-power on a switch to toggle (potentially) high-power circuits. It enables you to safely use a basic switch, regardless of current in the circuit you’re trying to switch.

I actually have a blank rocker switch in my dash I’ll be using for this, should be really straight forward once I can find a relay that’s adequate.

I actually just found this, might work well! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0774SBC3V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ybAcGb5NME2AW

Not sure if this is exactly what you’re looking for but this thing worked like a champ the other day... TOPVISION 2200a peak 21800mAh It was the first time we had to use it & it didn’t disappoint.

This might work too https://www.amazon.com/32x11-50R15LT-Kenda-Klever-KR29-113Q/dp/B01LBXB2R4/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=31x12.5x15+kenda&qid=1601534784&sr=8-2. I have had good experience with my Kendas and seems most do. They have a great rep for motorcycle tires and are newer into the auto scene.

Are you talking about a hi-lift jack? Because they are notoriously dangerous and prone to tipping, I got an off-road jack base to widen the stance in soft/uneven ground and provide traction, and a wheel lifter to minimize the amount of travel the jack will need to get my Jeep up.

Just be careful, know how to use the hi-lift, and try not to use it unless you're out of more safe options.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EKET6H4/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EKET6H4/

Beware these don't actually work properly with my Toyota. The lights are common cathode (gnd) but the toyota switches gnd between the high and low beam instead of switching 12v.

https://www.amazon.com/Badland-ZXR-Resistant-Automatic-Load-Holding/dp/B0793GSR78

I would be careful with washers as they are leverage, have it run under and low as possible.

Okay so you need to work on using the correct terminology. That’s a hitch shackle which is fine to use. This is a tow ball which is what you were recommending.

get one of these

Get yourself some of this tape. It is made for canopy covers, outdoor screens, etc. I have a cover that got ripped and bought some to see whether it works and after taping the rips, one of which is 9.5' long, I have to say it works great. It has been in the sun all day and in the wind and there is no tape release yet.

I cleaned the inside and outside of the canopy cover with alcohol to degrease it and get any dirt off of it and then started at one end unrolling the tape over it. Then I flipped the cover and did the same to the other side. This stuff works. I'm in Texas and it has been over 105* for several days with no problems.

Tortuga Tape - pick your width - Amazon

Sweet, depending on your vehicle you may have to purchase a harness that converts the polarity on your headlights. I did, one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Negative-Switched-Headlight-Conversion-Heat-Resistant-Headlights/dp/B07M6W1PMK

If you don’t have a heap of money look at a hand winch. It won’t recover you quickly or easily but it’s a lot less $$$ and will get you out eventually.

Also I would prioritise half decent tyres, compressor, tyre gauge, recovery boards and possibly a uhf before a winch. The right tyres at the right pressure makes a huge difference.

Also there is likely a 4x4 group locally you could join. A lot of off-road if is skills and joining a group will help you gain them much quicker.

https://www.amazon.com.au/4-Tonne-TEKTON-5546-Power-Puller/dp/B000NPT6P2/ref=asc_df_B000NPT6P2/?tag=googleshopmob-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341794245290&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11825233112071975798&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt...

Yes, those giant obnoxious ones you see a lot in the jeeps and fullsize trucks a lot of the time are thin as tinfoil.

:facepalm:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VFRC17F/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_B3595ACYKXJ2X9RFXCAV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Nice light & setup. Those silver bands are charging contacts perhaps?

And led bulbs are sold to turn old "boomer" maglites into led-style if you want. I got some off of amazon and they were acceptable. Better than throwing away my precious maglite!

This is exactly what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TDL68D7

I agree with the other commenter. Your battery can't deliver the load the winch is pulling.

>you’d need some incredibly thick gauge cable to provide such big draw over that distance

Lots of drag racers relocate their batteries to the trunk and run 0 or 2 ga wire to the starter/harness.

Here's some 0 gauge that would work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016HFD5G2/

Ryobi makes a hand held battery powered compressor.

RYOBI P737 18-Volt ONE+ Portable Cordless Power Inflator & 4.0 Ah 18-Volt Lithium-Ion High Capacity Battery (Bulk Packaged) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QHMVJ3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PJBJS78XXN69M8FBBVG1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

With heims tie rods are super easy to build. They allow more suspension travel than a ball joint, and they last longer if you're using quality ones like fk

These aren't bad at all. I bought this to make my last set of tie rods.

3/4” Rod End Heim Joint KIT Left and Right Hand Thread 2 Big .750” Chromoly Joints Panhard kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KGL98B/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_Q5ZCAB5QFFM2TJZWWF1P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Thermarest neolite x air I think that’s what it’s called

Close. Had mine for 8 years, still going strong. I use a thick forested bivvy bag so it doesn’t go directly on the ground in case twigs or whatever. Assumed I’d pop it fairly quickly but I don’t even carry the repair patch anymore.

Therm-a-Rest Unisex's NeoAir Xlite WingLock Ultralight Camping pad, Lemon Curry, Large-25 x 77 Inches https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YFYT2N9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C9ZGAMW996FFY81Q5KMJ

I got you

Car Ceiling Storage Net - AUTOOMMO 35.4" x 25.6" Upgraded Large Car Ceiling Cargo Net Pocket, Strengthen Load-Bearing Adjustable Double-Layer

Mesh Car Roof Organizer for SUV Long Trip Camping(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JBRMZCD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K8TDV9XTREXPTR8M5XJB

The way I handle cable-controlled winches is like this:

​

1. Buy a winch remote kit off amazon. I have this one and it works great. (https://www.amazon.com/LIEBMAYA-Wireless-Remote-Control-Handset/dp/B01MQWNWTI/ref=sr_1_5)
2. Put an isolator switch in the cab and an in/out switch next to it. The isolator switch will give power to both the in/out switch AND the wireless remote receiver. So if the isolator switch is off, neither works. It also prevents the wireless unit from drawing power with the vehicle off.
3. Cut the plug off the cabled controller. Plug it into the winch solenoid box. Silicone it in so its water tight... it's gonna stay in there. Take the 3 wires that come from it .. one is 12V hot from the solenoid box and you're gonna heatshrink that one off, you don't need it. The other two are the direction wires. When one gets 12V it goes IN, when the other gets 12V it goes OUT. That gets wired into your dash IN/OUT switch and in parallel to the wireless control unit's IN/OUT wires. If it ends up spinning the wrong way, just flip the wires till everything spins the way you expect, easy.
4. Now your old cable-controlled winch is a wireless winch, with 2 remotes, plus a dash switch backup, plus an isolator for safety. This is the way.

But they do sell bolt on styles, too. If you Google search something like "hitch receiver adapter" and scroll through images. Some bolt through you existing hitch, some clamp around it. Like this one on Amazon : JMTAAT RV 2" Bumper Adaptor Deluxe RV Square Bumper Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082TW9GSR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_YC01SVB8PG64444HZD1Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Right, I imagine it is the full sized OE size tire ~31.5in, yes?

If you wheel a lot, you might want to move a matching sized spare up on your list of importance. Just my suggestion :)

Here is a quick read as to why it is quite important.

Happy trails mate!

Edit: fixed broken link.

I had something like this in my 01 Wrangler.

You can find all sorts of them on Amazon and elsewhere by searching "clinometer" or "inclinometer".

I don't know if the wiring is the same, but it looks like the same connectors I have on a few of my old SuperWinches, so it might be worth a look:

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Am-SuperWinch-Control-710004887-710007050/dp/B07V47MCBF

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1464511437037986/

Have been seeing this truck on and off on FBM for probably the last 6 months. The guy swapped the front steering off of a 2wd XJ but seemed to have forgotten to put the front axle in too lol. Since this guy can't seem to sell this truck, I was thinking of offering him sub 4k and finishing the SAS. Is it worth it?

21,000lbs for $90. First item on google.

Smart enough to know a kinetic rope being used as intended when I see it in a video in a 4x4 subreddit.

Here ya go, want me to buy ya one? https://www.amazon.com/Kinetic-Energy-Recovery-30000lbs-Towing/dp/B078XV4N6M

They make a power washer attachment that is basically 5 nozzles pointing straight up and has wheels. Roll it around under the truck for a few minutes and you're golden.

https://www.amazon.com/Mingle-Pressure-Washer-Undercarriage-Cleaner/dp/B07K22DGRY

I throw one of these under the truck and move it around every 10-15 minutes for an hour and a half or so.

Doesn't get all of it, but it does a lot of good.

A local guy bought a stack of square led matrix plates off dealextreme. It came with an adapter to work with the tube bulb.

http://www.dx.com/p/white-smd-4-5-20-led-cabin-dome-door-glove-box-light-12v-12742#.VFw9_csU_X4

This was at Table Mesa Road, AZ Went there on a shooting trip, I believe there is 3 different shooting ranges, as soon as you get off the highway it splits into a fork, both sides really fun for casual offroading/intro to offroading - Most people I met there were really fun and nice. I'd recommend going if you are near

Took a day trip up to Signal Peak to check out an old fire watch station and to check out the views over the sierras and Tahoe!

Trail Location: https://www.google.com/maps/place/Signal+Peak,+California/@39.3383709,-120.5346204,16.54z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x809b9349dd390375:0xacbfff4a213520b0!5m1!1e4

4x4 Trail map: http://www.everytrail.com/guide/signal-peak-4x4-trail-california

Didn't mean to hit a nerve. Suppose it came off kind of jerky, sorry.

I do wheel pretty hard (go out once a month on average), here's a pretty good stuck from last year: https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/7AmoGVPXRLg9Eq50Cljs017aU9uOzmtIrqEowWN2QKH

I think I know what I'm looking at a little bit. I had gotten over that obstacle running 35's a few years ago, one thing you'll notice is the lack of skinny pedal. The more you use it, the more spectacular your breaks are going to be. So far I've made it a decade (mostly with stock axles and no lockers on 35's) without snapping anything too badly just by using some finesse and common sense.

> the maximum legal tyre size in Australia is 35"

That's pretty brutal there, a Wrangler can get by with 35's alright but some of those rigs were a hell of a lot heavier and longer than a Jeep. I guess the point was that a fair amount of the rigs there didn't really belong where they were with what they were running. When we plan runs we let people know if they aren't set up properly for the trail, glad to have them if they are set up properly but if they aren't I'd rather not be wrenching on their rig all day for no reason.

It's a CB antenna (fallback for incase no one has UHF/VHF) made by Pro Stick, it's their 4' model. It's not tunable but it works really good. I mounted it with the SS-3H antenna mount spring and a base mount I found on Amazon.

Here's a close up.

U-Pol Raptor Black Urethane Spray-On Truck Bed Liner Kit w/Free Spray Gun, 4 Liters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CKE7B1E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NE6FP181PPBEEW8TED9T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Make sure you get the kit with the spray gun, unless you already have an HVLP gun.

U-Pol Raptor Black Urethane Spray-On Truck Bed Liner Kit w/Free Spray Gun, 4 Liters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CKE7B1E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NE6FP181PPBEEW8TED9T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Make sure you get the kit with the spray gun, unless you already have an HVLP gun.

Atoto A6 is the one I got. It has a 10.1 inch screen. There is a newer version with the same size screen that has a better processor and more RAM but it's a lot more expensive too. You can also get ones that have 7 inch screens that don't stick out of the dash but...I like how mine turned out and the extra real estate is nice for viewing. I only wish I had the SIM card. Would have been convenient but not absolutely necessary for me. I have all my GPS maps downloaded through OsmAnd+ and OnXOffroad.

HERE are some pictures of it installed. One thing I did is install a different music player too. Program called PowerAmp. It's extremely nice. Lots of features and control. I have almost a thousand songs on a USB thumb drive plugged right into the head unit and it just reads them all off the drive. I also have three more USB ports plugged into the head unit that run to what used to be my cigarette lighter ports but are now USB ports. They are used for device charging and I can also plug my phone directly into one of them for data transfer or using my phone as a wifi connection. Of course, this head unit also has wifi and bluetooth so those can be used for data transfer too.

Lots and lots of new options by simply running native Android.

I was just going to post the Amazon link for the same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/MagnaFlow-447205-Universal-Catalytic-Converter/dp/B007C800T4/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=447205+magnaflow&qid=1619998296&sr=8-1

An app called Alpha OBD and this https://smile.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=19KELJH3DUKZJ&dchild=1&keywords=alpha+obd+ram+2500&qid=1619547637&sprefix=alpha+obd%2Caps%2C226&sr=8-5 will allow you to reset you TPMS settings and a whole lot more.

As he says the tank will not help in any significant way for filling tires. A tank is however pretty much required if you want to run air tools off it. Put an air coupler on a bumper, both ends if your vehicle is long. I highly recommend one of these as well.... It's not necessary, and it's not cheap, but it's easier and safer than having an air line discharging and flailing around...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QR7GPVJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sorry for all the messages. Not sure that if I edit a message you'll see the new part. Anyway I did some quick math based on the specs to the small 40 amp relays and the large 500 amp. So I have a total of 6 40 amp relays.. the seller responded that they draw 150 mA. I doubled it just to be safe. So that's a total of 1800 mA or 1.8 Amps. The 500 amp isolator says is draws less than an amp. I also doubled this and used 2 amps. That's at the most 4 (~3.8) amps that I will draw with everything doubled. Using the chart you linked, ishould get away with 18 awg at even 25 feet. Luckily I only need about 15 so I'm safe.

You could mount to the hood in front of the windshield for cheap and not damage a thing

Led Light Bar Mounting Brackets,2PCS Universal Clamp Piller Holder Led Work Light Bar Mount Bracket 304 Stainless Steel Piller Hood for Off Road Jeep SUV Truck Hatchback Wagon Installing Without Drilling(pack of 2） https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07KH9YXSR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QRabGbHW5SAH0

I use this Smittybilt 5.65 CFM compressor.

It ain't fancy, but it gets all 4 of my 35s filled and the hose is long enough to reach the back of an Excursion.

This is the kit I have on my truck. It can be done for cheaper if you find local parts and mix and match, but that right there is everything you need. You can set it up to run on either propane or gasoline with the flick of a switch, but my truck is pretty stripped down since it's a dedicated trail rig, don't need the extra weight. Its really common in my area to run your trucks on propane, since gasoline is much more expensive in my country.

Here you go mate: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RD9JCS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rN0JFbFHFXA49

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014CA3JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9N0JFbP6AQS7R

Now you never have to make that excuse again! Don't destroy mother nature and go off trail just cause you didn't come prepared. Also those saws are significantly cheaper on eBay.

Inspection cover. Chance are that won't lead you to the bolt though. Need pitch diameter and length and get a bolt from the hardware store. Thread checker is probably the easiest way to get the pitch an diameter figured out. https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Inch-Metric/dp/B003FJW0GK

Viar's very solid. Every plastic bodied compressor I've had has died on me after a year of use. This is what I've been using for the last 4 years to fill my 33"s back up.

https://www.amazon.com/VIAIR-30033-300P-Portable-Compressor/dp/B000X90YUO

It’s difficult to find anything <$200. There’s the cheap Curt hitch on Amazon. Floats around $85 give or take.

I think it might look kind of derpy on a full size SUV but it would do the job.

Honestly, your best bet is probably to find a local machine shop and see if they would weld something up for you. I bet for $150 you could pay somebody with some time and talent to make something a bit nicer than the Curt hitch. Maybe it could at least swing downward for tailgate clearance.

Also, depending on where you are, keep an eye in FB marketplace and Craigslist. I see tire mounts pop up every once in a while.

Nice tire mounts are expensive for a reason. It takes a lot to keep a heavy, oversized tire from rattling around and making vibrations with thousands of miles of off road use and debris.

Smart Dual Battery 140A Isolator (VSR Voltage Sensitive Relay) for Auto/Boat/RV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00400IYTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PvusCbAYJM1KA

This plus 0ga cable, hardware to connect the dots, and a cheap marine fuse box. The biggest issue was finding a battery that fits under the hood. I've got a sealed optima battery on it's side to avoid shorting on the hood

An inexpensive solution might be something like this(you would have to shorten the pole and use ties to keep it on the roof when deployed).

https://www.amazon.ca/10x6-5-Green-Aluminium-Rectangle-Umbrella/dp/B00LCB5CJ0?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&amp;tag=duc12-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B00LCB5CJ0

You may want to treat it with a water-guard spray before taking it out as well.

You could use a magnetic mount if you don't want to drill in your bumper. I used this one for a while after I broke my original permanent mount. Pretty strong magnet, sound quality was great.

Indeed

That pathfinder (v6 vg33) needs timing belt replaced at 100,000k miles. Change the water pump while you're at it.

Gates TCKWP249 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZXXSBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CK7MAb8KWCHRR

Double check that's the right part for you

https://youtu.be/YF5ZJiOXY-o

I had these lights and they're pretty good. I bought them last year for $65 and they're way cheaper now. It includes the wiring harness so you can install them very easily. I'd say you test them first and see.

OZ-USA is a well-liked brand in /r/Lightbar

I have a 110 outlet in the FJ, so it's easy for me. My in-laws just got one of these for the 4Runner.

BESTEK 150W Power Inverter with 3.1A Dual USB Charging Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ODVN88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oCmiAbGTYXB5S

This one seems better, but more expensive. Notice how the recovery strap mentions 20% stretch.

The one you posted might be similar, but it's not clear from the ad.

9500lb winch for $299 Smittybilt 97495 XRC Winch - 9500 lb. Load Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXS3BXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rFk6zb5KA3HR2

This would be such a pita in Florida where the wheels are under mud and I'm sure it would sheer the lugs if you were really stuck. Do yourself a favor and buy two 9500lb winches instead.

This is a Torque Wrench from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509471272&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=torque+wrench

The only other thing you'll need is the correct socket for your lug nuts and spacer nuts.

GENSSI Square LED Headlight 7x6 5x7 Chrome Reflector Sealed Beam Replacement (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M09C7Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_cPrF9HvPJECCd

I got em cause they were cheap. Will more than likely be pulling them. Low beam is spread out too much. And I can't aim them any higher without blinding anyone so the high beam is too low and worthless. I preferred myself old style of projector style lens with the silver stars.

I never thought of using dynamat before..... I quickly googled around for cheap alternatives because my recollection of that stuff from my super cool high school days with 2 15's in the trunk of my sweet Saturn was that it is expensive. I came up with this looks promising, I could do the transmission tunnel and bed line it.

Winch 9500lbs $299 waterproof bad ass never had an issue all my 4x4 buddies use them.

Smittybilt 97495 XRC Winch - 9500 lb. Load Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXS3BXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XC97ybC2JS6D0

64" Universal Black Roof Rack Cargo with Extension Car Top Luggage Holder Carrier Basket Travel SUV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY12QID/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ZV9OsDlFf8MOi

It's medium sized I suppose!

Hey, I'm hoping you can help me out! I bout this a while back https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Lights-Driving-Lighting-Warranty/dp/B00WE47FVM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486003550&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=20+inch+light+bar because it fit my dimensions good but the light is very lacking, I really want something with some distance!! Height is not a factor but it can only be about 24 inches long max and I really need it to mount like how that one done, not the side mounts. Budget is like 200 bucks but would like to spend less obviously, any ideas?

About a month ago, I bought a rustoleum kit for truck bed liner DIY style for my B4000. This is the product but I got it for just under 100 bucks at Wal-Mart where I live.

This stuff isn't paint, it's a two part epoxy mixture with a really long cure time. The fumes are pretty horrible, and the smell is bound to linger for quite a while if you use it on the interior. Regardless, it came out very nicely (i'll post pictures later) and I think it was well worth the 100 bucks or so it cost.

The prep work was rather intensive. You have to get every inch of every surface you plan to line with it really clean. Then, you have to go over all surfaces again with a sanding block to rough up the surface. That ensures the liner will form a strong bond. Then, you have to go over every surface again with laquer thinner to get the extremely fine loose particles out. Then you can start applying it.

It goes on in two to three coats with 30 minutes in between. The paintbrush is great, but have some extras on hand if the included one starts to get full of the epoxy and isn't working very well. Keep in mind that using a paint brush for this job renders it ruined once it's done.

If you really take your time and do the prep work well, it'll come out amazingly.

I dont remember the actual amount but I'm pretty sure I was under $150 for the whole setup. Radio, cables, antenna, etc.. I went with this one with a 3' Firestik antenna.

hell yeah! http://www.amazon.com/CURT-18115-Roof-Mounted-Cargo/dp/B004O844DS?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 I shopped around for a while before i decided on it.

No reason. I'm not familiar with tires. So you'd recommend these?

I'd suggest the Viair 88P. The first review gives a comparison of all the new Viair models. I use mine nearly every weekend in the summer to air up my F250's tires (315/70/17) from 12psi to 50psi when leaving the beach, and it can do all four in 15-20 minutes. Pretty good for a 12v inflator.

I had the Harbor Freight 150psi 12v inflator before that, which worked slowly...for about the first two trips. Took like 30 minutes to air up. Then it just lost pressure. Guessing that a seal blew out.

>Hell I'm even thinking of laying a piece of plywood across the engine compartment so I can lay on it for better access.

I did it with a blanket in my Bronco.

...but these look nice.

The mounts are the gutter mount plates from a gutter mount ladder rack from amazon. $40 http://www.amazon.com/Highland-2006200-Black-Heavy-Carrier/dp/B0002MABL4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459209030&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ladder+rack+gutter

I have a pair of these and they've worked fine in snow so far. Haven't tested them in any other condition.

I'd love some maxtrax though as a primary set!

Well fuck me. It is a nanny state! Apparently US drivers can't be trusted to check tire pressures!

TPMS look pretty cheap if you want to stay legit: http://www.amazon.com/Schrader-28203-Sensor-Subaru-1-pack/dp/B002GYZQ8E

Are you using a wiring harness like this one that uses a relay? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JB69438?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I would just disconnect either the ground or positive of the light bar, whichever is easiest and do a simple test, if that doesn't work then test the voltage of your battery, if it is low then try getting a jump start.

Amazing because a 5 minute amazon search yielded a 100% duty cycle 12V compressor for $200. I'm sure looking around would yield similar results elsewhere. Looking at the kickstarter page again and you don't even list the CFM or duty cycle of the compressor. If your sole basis is a compressor that doesn't use a cigarette lighter, that's a pretty weak comparison as any compressor can easily be wired to use anything from aligator clamps on the battery to simple quick-disconnect harnessing with components from a $10 trip to radioshack. Hell my 1.94 CFM viair that cost a whopping $60 has direct hookups to my battery. Unless you stumbled upon a helluva deal on a good quality compressor direct from a manufacturer, all that I really see is a sheetmetal bracket and plastic molding cover that covers potentially a $50 compressor.

http://www.amazon.com/WARN-26502-M8000-8000-lb-Winch/dp/B000182DYM

Seen them closer to $550, just the first link I found.

The real proof is when you take them apart, those cheap winches have poorly machined gears, casting flaws, poor lubrication, cheap solenoids, motors that fry way to easily. Is almost like they want to make it look like a winch for show.

Most of the differences with the 8-10k winches are gear ratios. The "more powerful" winches are in reality just geared lower and are slower. The warn winches now have many imported parts, including the motors, but the gears are still cut in Oregon. Plus the quality control has not changed.

They are really easy to rebuild though. I have a 15 year old M6000 that I just completely rebuilt. The old motors are very beefy So I was able to clean the armature and stator with a wire wheel and replace the insulation. Find one that looks rough and functions for 100 bucks and spend a few days taking it apart.

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/1930193254/ref=pd_aw_sim_b_1/182-3302917-4144117?refRID=0TDYYMBJDC37TAZKXMNT

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

I used one of these do-dads...

And this thingy to power it via USB/12v

Edit: This was the first time I played with my gopro on my truck.... I used the wifi remote inside the cab to control the camera. With that battery eliminator, once the truck is on, you essentially have unlimited battery life.

>Except for directly mentioning diesel and even points out stoichiometry for a diesel is 14.5

And that is the only passing mention to diesel turbocharging in the whole article. Garrett provide specific guides to turbocharger selection on diesels. Here it is: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/PDF/DieselTech.pdf

Notice in the second paragraph: > the engine needs about 18 times more air (by mass) than fuel

Go ahead tell us what joke certification you have. You've just shown it is completely worthless for even basic diesel function. You've got Gasoline engine operation wrong too.
Your certification means you are trained to change parts and follow proceedures written by people who actually understand how engines work.

Go read something like this before you embarass yourself further: http://www.amazon.com/Diesel-Engine-Reference-Bernard-Challen/dp/0750621761

I am not a "insert manufacturer here" certified mechanic. I'm a Mechanical Engineer and I have done more work on turbocharging diesels than you ever will.

Non-mobile: this one.

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Hold up, I think I found a solution on Amazon. Look at the ratings for how durable these things are. 25 of them for $14. There's even a review from a guy that used them to add accessories to his UTV. Boom.

This is the one I got, even cheaper! I also got this to go with it because my truck is red and the new grille doesn't come with a new embelm. Look around on eBay, there are loads of other colors.

Thanks. I plan on getting one of the trailer hitch drings Is using a recovery strap plus one of these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPBHE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Plus a tree saver a viable recovery method? I live in Utah so there will almost always be trees around where I might go in the mountains.

For the light or mount? The light I bought from amazon The mounts I went through a company called Slag Factory http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AYZB6Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_4BJ4tb0S4HD9K

https://www.facebook.com/SlagFactory

2.5-inch HD Car LED IR Vehicle DVR Road Dash Video Camera Recorder Traffic Dashboard Camcorder - LCD 270 degrees whirl by Dowson http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053DDNW6/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_OysYtb19KXAA1

Is the one I use. It's better than nothing I suppose. It does 720 and 1080 but damn is it pixely. I leave it on 640 for extra record time. The lens quality or whatever it's called is just bad. You could snag a license plate number if you were behind a car. You can make out city limit signs passing them at 60. The night time IR is really bad. Might as well leave that off. I didn't expect it would be good though. I've used it at the race track before and it's kinda fun to see all the cars as they pass me on the track (because 4runner). Also the sounds quality is bad. Leave that of too. The cord is really long and you can fit it with a huge micro sd. It has quite a few features if you can fumble through the poorly Englished manual. Overall for $16 though what do you expect. It does everything (not well) and hoping one day it will capture something cool or save my ass.

I was looking at a Superwinch 9500 winch with synthetic line or $400 and in that search i found that Moto Alliance seems to have good if not great customer service. Specifically what got me convinced was there were on a forum as a sponsored vendor and they were total honest about what they sold. Another person in a different thread said this is the same winch as the Harbor fright one. Here is the link to the SW 9500 if you are interested and if I did not get this one I would have got this one here http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00KPP6GTY. But all in all you do get what you pay for. If was was going to spend $400 I would go with a bigger name brand one.

Hey happy cake day to you!

thanks for replying. So basically I'll have the stock tow d-ring mount, then another separate D-ring like This that holds the strap to the tow point on each end? So I should get two of those extra d-rings?

What size/type of bulb is it? I have had success with both Amazon and Ebay for LED replacements. Just type the size/kind of bulb + LED.

There are also aftermarket dome lights that are LED to start with.

http://www.amazon.com/Gold-Stars-F3528001-Fixture-Natural/dp/B00CZCY5SE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415831819&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=led+dome+light

would this be sufficient enough for recovering while offroading and emergency towing on flat surfaces?

I have a set of These Lights tied into a my high beams with a relay. They seem to work almost as well as the PIAA's did, but the grills block a LOT of the light, so I have them off.

I tapped into a high beam wire, ran that into the cab to a switch, then out of the switch to the relay. My high beams have to be on and the switch has to be on for the lights to be on. I know I won't blind on-coming traffic.

Thought about fog lights, but the aftermarket housings I bought have a nice cutoff, I don't think Ill need them.

Depends on the tires and wheels bit it's not as ridiculous as you make it sound..

A 31" bogger weighs 57 pounds according to amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Swamper-B-113-Bogger-31X12-50-15/dp/B006YH19B2

Steel rim weighs 28 pounds.

http://www.amazon.com/Cragar-Black-Soft-Wheel-5x114-3mm/dp/B004071CKG

So 85 pounds together.