What are /r/ASUS's favorite Products & Services?

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Why are they buying the backpack at all? It's not even a good backpack. It doesn't protect it well, it doesn't have a bunch of room, it's not very comfortable. It's like $60-80 more expensive than it should be, just because it says ASUS.

I could be wrong in my assumption, but I think I kind of understand the idea. They're the kind of person that likes to buy nice things for enthusiast/gimmicky purposes, right? That's why they got the Zepherus, right?

As an alternative suggestion, do what I did. Buy a Pelican case for your laptop. I bought the Pelican 1495 laptop case when it was on sale, then I put a bunch of stickers on the outside (people put stickers on their laptops in college, I put stickers on my case instead).

This case will ACTUALLY protect your laptop. Whenever someone asks me about the case, I jump up and down on my briefcase with my laptop inside it to show off to people the durability. It's also completely waterproof (not the "waterproof" IP68 stuff, I mean like, you can tie an anchor to it and it'd survive). There's a lifetime warranty on it. I've had mine since 2016, and it's still going strong.

You may get looks from strangers for the case. But from personal experience, people get over it within the first 30 seconds of talking to them if you act like a sociable, normal person. After that, you're memorable as the guy with the briefcase, and it's just an interesting quirk.

You have a bad boot drive, and it will scroll forever.

I suggest using Gparted to see what you've go, it's the best for this. https://gparted.org/download.php Burn it to a CD, go into your Bios (hit the Del key) have it boot from the CD.

After it loads, run Gparted - it's an easy program to learn.

My experience is totally different. I bought a ROG Strix GL10DH Gaming Desktop PC, AMD Ryzen 7 3700X, GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, 16GB DDR4 RAM, 512GB SSD, Wi-Fi 5, Windows 10 Home, GL10DH-AH762. It was a totally off the shelf, standard system. I've built plenty of systems from scratch before, but bought this one due to being able to finance it at no interest. All the parts were well balanced and of good quality. When I bought it, it was current tech. I've got no complaints at all.

yea since I theoretically got mine already I'll share the page so others can try lol: here's the link.

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users. I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!

Here is link number 1 - Previous text "$15"

^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

You can follow Asus releases here: https://airtable.com/shrkKVIhaEEGbYsbu/tblxTA8JhWMXG4sc2

The long awaited PG279QM was delayed just like the PG32UQ. The first is now being sold in the EU in low quantities, probably more availability next month, so I'm guessing the PG32UQ will follow after that.

One thing that helped me pull the trigger was seeing video reviews on Youtube. As with all tech reviews on YouTube, 90% of the videos I watched were fluff, but the main thing I was looking at was how the phone looked in peoples hands and how easily they seemed to navigate Android on it.

If you haven't seen a straight spec comparison with the Zenfone 5z and the Oneplus 6/6T, check out this GSM Arena comparison. They're all very similar, with the 6T having a slight edge (but missing the headphone jack, which is an absolute deal breaker for me).

I purchased my Zenfone 5z from eBay for $706, including shipping, for a new 128GB version. I know that Best Buy carries it (at least they do online and seem to indicate in stores), and Memory Express can special order it. It's also available on Amazon (prime, no less), but it's for the 64GB version (if you were hoping for the 128GB version). Also, keep in mind that the ones off Amazon don't carry a warranty if you're in the US (which shouldn't matter to you, but thought I'd just mention it). You might have a local retailer that carries it or can order it as well, might need to ask around. It doesn't seem widely available in Canada though, so you might have to hunt for it a bit.

It's certainly a lot more expensive than my previous phones, but based on the specs it makes sense to me for the phone to be priced around this range.

Asus Aura is a nightmare. I have a x470 prime, latest bios. The current version doesn't work for me, the lightning service just hangs while starting. I was able to find an older version but that stopped after I tried once more to get the latest because I got so annoyed

More complaints

1. There's no custom install and it installs a large number of kernel drivers for specific brands of memory and controllers
2. The installation shits everywhere, program files x86, program files, program data, windows, windows system32.
3. The main uninstaller doesn't get everything, I checked Serviwin (nirsoft) and then had to sc delete like 20 things.

They stopped supporting it and now want you to use armory crate which does work but suffers from the above three problems. I love Asus products because they've been reliable for me but their software as of late is bleh. I don't even want to start on Aisuite III, there overclocking tool.

But you should consider trying https://openrgb.org/ . It supports Asus, MSI, various memory brands. Best of all it's a clean install

High temps on Temp2 and Temp5 is a bug. Rather it was not meant to be read. if you google this issue, there are lots of explanation for it.

Here is an example from HWinfo:

Asus ROG Strix x570 Gaming e: Temp 2 and Temp 5 readings (under motherboard) - real? | HWiNFO Forum

I have the B550i Strix and have same readings.

One thing I had to do, for the Windows 10 install via USB, is to have the Windows Media Creation tool create an ISO. Saved it on the desktop, then used Rufus to create the bootable USB drive. Not sure why the Creation tool didn't work right for me, but had to do it this way for it to boot.

If I recall correctly, you first have to install the ROG Aura Component, and only then the ROG Aura software from the windows store. Since your laptop has the per-key RGB, this is the correct software: https://www.microsoft.com/store/apps/9nqh3p2dzffn

I had the same thing happen on my new GL504 (also $2000 machine), they should be really more specific about it, it's way too much money for such issues.

I've found some instructions for your model here: https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1036500/ It should work if you install the correct software (not core).

Let me know how it goes.

This is easily the best fan curve software out there, consistently updated, intuitive UI, lots of features (like setting your curves to GPU temp rather than CPU if you'd like)

https://github.com/Rem0o/FanControl.Releases

Snappy Driver Installer Origin https://www.snappy-driver-installer.org/

Sneakernet is an informal term for the transfer of electronic information by physically moving media such as USB drives. -Wikipedia

If issues persist I can help you over Discord.

Hi, thanks for your reply! Where exactly did you put it if you don’t mind my asking? I’m assuming that you didn’t remove the original card and put the new one in its place or you wouldn’t have needed to disable the original wifi, correct?

The only other pcie slots (besides the ones 2 16x ones for the GPU) I can find are the dual VGA slots (one next to the battery and one in the bottom left corner). I’m under the impression that the slot needs to be designed for wifi. Is that not the case?

Also, if you didn’t put it where the original card was, how did you hook up the antennae?

I came across this video after several hours of searching. In it, he’s able to pull off the plastic I/O cover and remove the original wifi card. But the card looks tiny compared to most of the WiFi 6 cards I’m seeing online.

see the YT video here

I was looking at the tp link that you sent as well as the Asus PCE-AX58BT Asus wifi 6 card I just need to figure out if it fits where the original card was (i.e. can I put the plastic cover back on?), or if there’s another place to put it without sacrificing its reach from not being able to use antennae

Thanks!

Yep, I just did that, and added one of these :

TP-Link WiFi 6 AX3000 PCIe WiFi Card (Archer TX3000E), Up to 2400Mbps, Bluetooth 5.0, 802.11AX Dual Band Wireless Adapter with MU-MIMO,OFDMA,Ultra-Low Latency, Supports Windows 10 (64bit) only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZV2CJL2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FFWZT3WRX45FBCMDH55Y

You can disable the on-board wifi via the bios.

I recommend installing the TP-Link driver before connecting the tp's internal USB connector, as that gave me blue screen on bootup.

Yes. You'll simply need to get outlet travel adapters that change the plug on the end to match the local outlet. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/World-Travel-Adapter-Set-Ceptics/dp/B07DRBHRVM/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=outlet+travel+adapter+set&qid=1624945608&sr=8-16

This 16 GB kit is in stock and on the list. 2 8GB sticks:https://www.amazon.co.uk/HyperX-Impact-DDR4-16-SODIMM/dp/B07BGLK65P/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=HX429S17IB2K2%2F16&qid=1622318038&sr=8-1

This 16 GB single stick's in stock and on the list: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-M471A2K43DB1-CTD-2666MHz-PC4-21300-Laptops/dp/B0946XG1GB/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=M471A2K43DB1-CTD&qid=1622318751&sr=8-1

This one here:

HyperX Impact 32GB 3200MHz DDR4 CL20 SODIMM Laptop Memory HX432S20IB/32

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0848MD5Q6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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The Samsung (original) was cheaper but this one had much better ratings in terms of thermals.

Hmmm. Seems like your wireless card in your laptop might have quit. You can buy another one here. But you will have to install it your self. If you do not know how to. Then take your pc to a pc repair place and hand them the laptop and the wireless card. Then say can you replace my old wireless card in my laptop with this one?

Hi all, I have had the Asus VG248QE since the day it came out! YOU CAN RUN 120Hz on the Xbox Series X with the VG248QE!!!!!

This is how:

- First you need to buy the cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FM51TT8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
(since this monitor is a little old, the HDMI port on the monitor does not support 120HZ nor does the Display Port, not 100% sure on the display port, but I did try it with a Display Port to HDMI cable and it did not work).

- Second you need to change the Xbox Series X Display Settings:
General>TV & display options>Video fidelity & overscan>Overrides>HDMI
It will make you display look terrible, but don't PANIC!
Go to Resolution>1080P
Once that is done go to Refresh rate>120 Hz

AND BOOM YOU GOT IT!!!!!!!!

FYI: Every time you turn your Xbox Series X and monitor on, the monitor will display and error (CABLE INCORRECT, PLEASE USE DUAL-LINK DVI CABLE) - just click the menu button on the monitor and it will go away. BUT YOU GOT 120Hz NOW!!!!!

When it comes to what settings on the monitor to use, it comes down to preference and what settings you have on the game you are playing (ex. colorblind mode will change the settings you want on the monitor dramatically!)

Sure... because I've done it multiple times... I personally have a "clip" that will fit in some tight spaces, and if that doesn't work, I have used similar to these...

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Not hard at all if you know what you're doing.

yea since I theoretically got mine already I'll share the page so others can try lol: here's the link.

No problem, the other guy is right to a certain extent most of the basic cheap power banks only supply 5v. But if you look at this one

(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L93V1VJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f26WCb1YDC8M6)

You’ll see the AC outlet is listed as 110v/100W It should be what youre looking for but I recommend doing a bit more research into which brand is going to be the best for you, the one I linked was one of the first results on amazon after searching “power bank with AC outlet”

If it helps, I did a quick Google of your laptop model, and while I don't know if you can order THAT one (or what shipping would be), at least according to an Amazon Seller you should be ok with a keyboard saying it's compatible with: Asus Models: R505J R505L R510C R510D R510E R510J R510L R510V R510W R510Z R513C R513E R513L R513M R513V R513W R751J R751L .

Good luck!

I'm thinking of buying a WD NVMe SSD, the manual for my mobo however suggests that the M.2 socket on it is not always supported depending on which CPU I have (Ryzen 3 3600x), and I'm not really sure how to find out (the table doesn't really explain what the A-H on the top row actually means) Can anyone advise if this would be compatible?

Something like this - SSD to NVMe adapter or this Amazon offering, lot cheaper Sabrent M.2 to SSD adapter

Either of these should accept your 970 EVO, you then plug this in to a SATA slot on the motherboard in the same way you would a regular SSD or HDD. These adapters take the same power and SATA cables as all other SATA drives.

For anyone else running into this issue it looks like the X-99 Wifi connector is an MMCX Female connector. So you would need to use an MMCX male connector to plug into it. The threads around the outsid3e are not used for the connection. Instead that is used for a washer to thread around the barrel helping to secure the female connector to a chassis.

"3T3R Wi-Fi 802.11ac The Fastest Wi-Fi Transfer Now Onboard! Enjoy up to 1300Mb/s Transfer Speed! EZ click & lock with MMCX* connectors! *MMCX (micro-miniature coaxial) is a standard of RF connectors which has a lock-snap mechanism allowing 360-degree rotation. NEW!!"

Normally if you are looking to purchase an aftermarket antenna for wifi they would use an RP-SMA connector (Which is suited for WIFI). There also exist SMA connectors which are suited for cellular which you would not want normally for this application.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bulkhead-Pigtail-Antenna-Connector/dp/B07YJX7QQT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2QMJA2U65WC13&keywords=male+rp-sma+to+male+mmcx+adapter&qid=1671760491&s=electronics&sprefix=male+rp-sma+to+male+mmcx+adapter%2Celectronics%2C136&sr=1-5

I hope this helps someone in the future!

https://www.amazon.ca/CB3-131-C3SZ-CB5-571-C1DZ-CB3-111-C670-CB5-132T-C1LK-AO1-131-C7DW/dp/B0749LCNGQ/ref=asc_df_B0749LCNGQ/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292981412351&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14063903925352283236&... Do you think this one is good ?

I finally found some, and they worked for me, i don't know if I can post an amazon link over here, https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/-/es/compatible-tabletas-Vivobook-ExpertBook-B3302FEA/dp/B09XHGS1C1&ved=2ahUKEwjNwPSk5-77AhXTTaQEHVHQDrkQFnoECBMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0Y4-sE6g51-RYLn5tIiaS7

Hi. I bought one of these laptops recently, and purchased the RENAISSER Raphael 520 stylus to go with it. It was about $30 on Amazon. Works great. A bit laggy if you want to try write with it, but I'm using it for photoshop masking kind of work, so beats carting round a graphics tablet on the road. Hope this helps.

Here's the stylus I bought;

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B081NRTK9K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

It might just be a recent release without much fanfare. I found the amazon page for it. It's sold and shipped by amazon, so I doubt it's a scam.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Zenbook-i7-12650H-Graphics-UX6601ZW-DB76/dp/B0BDTW73S4

My coworker has the Asus ROG Strix X760E with four 32 GB sticks and he said upgrading to version 805 caused his motherboard to hang indefinitely (hours) on post code 0x0B until he removed two of them. I have the Hero and now I'm afraid to try 805 because I need 128 GB for work, even if it is a slower speed.

I recommend the RENAISSER RAPHAEL 530.

I just ordered these replacements for my strix G15 off of amazon and they were OEM; same part numbers and all. I had to do a clean and repaste 3 very different types of thermal paste so I went ahead and bought a new set to be safe.

How long are the M2 Spring screws? Would 7mm good? I could also buy a assorted box of m2 screws but they don't have the springs. Which is better? Or maybe the washers are fine too?

Oh and would the owltree pack be good for the entire laptop or should I but 2 of those packs?

And should I buy some conductonaut so I can use the syringe to suck the liquid metal up? Or would a plastic pipette be fine?

I just bought these last night, after install I spent waaaaay too long trying to get this to connect to my AX82U. I finally got it to connect after disabling WiFi 6, but as soon as you re-enable you lose the light again (I am not giving up WiFi6 for lights).

My fix was to turn an old Raspberry Pi into a mobile hotspot, connect the phone to the hotspot, then add the light, then switch the phone back over to my ASUS routers SSID. I bought a cheap USB to WiFi attenna to try to make up for the Pis limited antenna. I'll update once it arrives.

You could do this in Windows 10/11 as well with the Mobile Hotspot setting in an old laptop.

https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/raspberry-pi-access-point
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-LOTEKOO-RT5370-Chip-Raspberry/dp/B0BHW6T96R/ref=sr\_1\_11?crid=2CIAWAZHTCSCS&keywords=usb+wifi+antenna+raspberry+pi&qid=1668798459&sprefix=usb+wifi+antenna+Rasp%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-11

While 3rd party, this one will work. It has good reviews for the charger and the seller. I'm a retired tech and have used similar.

https://www.amazon.com/Listed-Charger-ZenBook-UX433FN-Adapter/dp/B07H2ZG1J2

I'm a retired tech. I don't recommend trying to buy an Asus battery unless you get it directly from them. It would likely be used or counterfeit. This one's 3rd party but both the battery and seller are highly rated.

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-A501LB5200-K501LX-NH52-K501UX-AH71-0B200-01460100/dp/B08P3SN4RS

I never 1 unique cable that works, so I ended up buying a LINKUP - USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 20Gbps USB-C like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TGF4XCJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

check that it worked first with my usb-c device (ssd drives and other)

and got a 2nd cable from USB-C to USB-B which was needed for my card reader.

A bit late, it's not like there are many of these out there but I am using a ASUS ROG Ranger Gaming Water Resistant Backpack but I don't know if these can still be found. They say it's for 17 inch laptops but I get my 18.4 inch laptop in there easily. I guess 17 inches is about as large as laptops get which is why. The backpack looks great an is full of features including expandibility and a rain cover. Perhaps they have a newer model. Worth checking out.

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How is your monitor doing? What do you use it for? Any burn in?

You could try repairing it at a local electronic repair shop. I had a similar joystick switch in a monitor that the stick broke off and the part (5-way Tactile Switch) was 2€. Soldered it myself.

Or check ebay for used boards from broken monitors. At least on my monitor the switch was in a small PCB and not at the main PCB, so shouldn't be very expensive.

I have same Helios case and you will need two headers connected to have all USBs working. What I did was got PCI-E expansion card with 19-pin connector and now, all my USBs work. I have two more new thunderbolts and 3 additional USBs is something nice to have this expansion card.

Unfortunately, you needed a motherboard with two 19-pin headers but a good expansion card will do it.

https://www.amazon.com/ULANSeN-Express-Expansion-Internal-Connector/dp/B08H1TZPG7/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_w=eRZb0&content-id=amzn1.sym.1df8f381-dd0a-41bf-9555-8eca6fa3048e&pf_rd_p=1df8f381-dd0a-41bf-9555-8eca6fa3048e&pf_rd_r=D0TBZ488QM6H...

Better late…. but this is my choice.

https://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Price-Connect-Electronic-Learning-Toddlers/dp/B09BDBKXFQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=baby+laptop&qid=1666162739&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk5IiwicXNhIjoiNC40OCIsInFzcCI6IjQuMDUifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charger-Adapter-Compatible-FX705GM-TUF705GD/dp/B09FK2Z883/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=XK9BA3APCM3V&keywords=19v+6.32a+120w&qid=1666273266&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=19v+6.32A%2Caps%2C55&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

This on Amazon UK - I searched 19v 6.32A 120W - to get this result. If your not iUK based, just use the same search term in your country.

I'm not sure how to change the title of the original post, but I wanted to mark it SOLVED.

I ended up taking another chance and purchased this board. I don't know what special characteristics it has, or how it differs from the other 2 boards I tried, but this was the one that worked.

It was recognized immediately and works well in Windows 11. I now have 10 total SATA ports on my Z690P motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Adapter-Desktop-Support-RAID-PM2TS6/dp/B09N34NKT1

Knock yourself out. Or get a proper trimmed HBA and use MiniSAS to SATA breakouts. Hell of a lot easier than dealing with mobo SATA

That is supposedly a 3-year-old laptop (it was released in 2019, don't know when you purchased it) and the battery life really depends on the utilization and storage, so it may just be dead because of usage.

Every battery has a recharge cycle and laptops can vary a lot depending on the manufacturer and model, but I usually assume a 2 to 3 years for average usage (used plugged). If you constantly use it unplugged the battery life may deteriorate faster as you will go over the charge cycles faster. Also, using an underpowered charger may also damage your battery (ex. using a 100W USB C charger with a gaming laptop while gaming).

So, what I can tell you is to maybe try to replace this battery, I think this is the model:

https://www.amazon.com/GL504GS-0081A8750H-GL704GW-EV04-GL504GW-ES04-G715GV-EV017-0B200-02940000/dp/B08N4D6J8F

Ok, let's try some steps:

1) Put it in the other slot and see if you can boot the machine. If not, the SSD may be damaged.

1.1) If no boot than the SSD may be damaged as the port is fine as the other SSD was working in this port

1.2) If there's boot than your port may be damaged. Place the old SSD in the port and check if the laptop keeps starting

1.2.1) If no boot than the port is most likely damaged, RMA the laptop

1.2.2) If yes than try to revert back and put the other SSD back into this port and check again. If the problem, persist you can just use the old in the empty port and the new in the used port as that worked. This can be caused because either the SSD does not fit correctly on the other port and some short circuit is happening or something that I can't diagnose remotely

2) Check if the SSD is seeded correctly and if there's nothing touching it in some way, in some machines you may have other boards (like the wifi card) below the SSD and if you have a double sided SSD it may not fit correctly.

3) Get a NVME enclosure (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Tool-free-Enclosure-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B07N48N5GR) and check if the SSD is working correctly there. If it is, it again is pointing to your port been damaged.

https://www.amazon.de/Crucial-CT2K8G4SFRA32A-16GB-2x8GB-Laptop-Speicher-Kit/dp/B08C4WV6FT/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=76319757509&gclid=CjwKCAjws--ZBhAXEiwAv-RNLxZh0Uro6NkxIEabXoxfPamFLfZUpdY-K592XapYif2KSK64T66QixoCgOsQAvD_BwE&hvadid=375237525...

This kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XYV2Y1R?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

I couldn't find any EXPO, nor (decent) 6000mhz 64gb kits. This one (or, the silver version anyway) is at least on the motherboard's qvl list at 5600mhz lol

US Amazon

AC Charger Fit for Asus Monitor VG279Q VG278Q VG275Q VG245Q VG258Q VG258QR VG258QM VG248QG VG278QR VG278QE VG278QF Tuf Gaming 10Ft Long 65W Power Supply Adapter Cord

You need something like this. Not a recommendation for this specific product, it’s just what came up.

https://www.amazon.com/JoyReken-Vertical-Socket-Header-Adapter/dp/B08TW9S7B3/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=25VFVGW3FWX83&keywords=usb3+to+usb+c+internal&qid=1662906453&sprefix=usb3+to+usbc+internal%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-4

I have the same case and I have the tuf x570 plus Wi-Fi and I use this card for the front panel connector. https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-Socket-Express-Adapter-Motherboard/dp/B07ZPZH6N5/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?crid=34D3WYRIT48JZ&keywords=pcie+to+usb+c&qid=1662859824&sprefix=Pcie+to+usb%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&smid=A2OKSEIX7OEK0B

This should work...

www.amazon.com/SGTKJSJS-M-2-Screw-NVMe-Mounting/dp/B07Q3DLCJ4/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=1HGZH42OD4W3V&keywords=motherboard+screw+kit+m.2&qid=1662272812&sprefix=motherboard+screw+kit+m.2%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-4

Hi! i found out that metapen sells replacement tips on amazon honestly haven't gotten them yet but I plan to soon, if their good ill make sure to update.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XHGS1C1

I bought the 14" version with the Intel i3 11th gen, 128 gb ssd and 4 gigs of ram. For $32 USD I added an additional 8 gigs of ram and will likely upgrade the ssd at some point. I only use it for random internet things but it can handle some simple games but gets quite hot doing that, though I haven't really tried much since I have a high end gaming pc. It was $299 and came with windows 11 installed. It's pretty much all plastic but thus far after 2 months of use it's held up perfectly fine. It's pretty cheap if it's similar to the one you posted, may not hold up well to a beating. The audio isnt great but it gets the job done and the track pad could be a little slicker are my only real cons. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SVQG3ZZ

Router and PSU are available now, cooler is still oos

Router - https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-GT-AX6000-EVA-Triple-Level-Acceleration/dp/B0B7C73BLP?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp

PSU - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BB6BJW27/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ZenBook-OLED-Laptop-2-8K/dp/B0B24B3GHD/ref=sr_1_3?crid=34DE4BQ4SACSM&keywords=zenbook+14x&qid=1661490796&sprefix=zenbook+14x%2Caps%2C242&sr=8-3

Released on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ZenBook-OLED-Laptop-2-8K/dp/B0B24B3GHD/ref=sr_1_3?crid=34DE4BQ4SACSM&keywords=zenbook+14x&qid=1661490796&sprefix=zenbook+14x%2Caps%2C242&sr=8-3

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Released on Amazon

I see this one. but would you know how to find a cheaper or official one? This seems random. Sorry.

Now that you know where the SSD used for storage is, you can mount it in one of these until the laptop is fixed or replaced. That would allow you to hook up the SSD to the USB port of a working computer so you could pull data off it.

Hey,

That person's method actually worked. I bought this Tape on Amazon. I cut a tiny piece of the 1mm and put it directly

above the silicon button. I was an inch away from taking the laptop back to Best Buy.

Just fix the laptop. Water spilling on a laptop is not the end of the world. I frequently put motherboards into the dishwasher, dry them out, put them back together and call it good. In the mean time, just use one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H22BV1N That will allow you to read the drive. Since you are clearly inexperienced with them in the dishwasher, I do not recommend my method of fixing it, but you can fix it with some rubbing alcohol. You'll need to pull the board, CPU, NET CARD, BATTERY, ETC, dip it into alcohol, which will displace the water. Blow out with some compressed air, let it dry for a couple hours, and laptop should be good to go. I know that was a generic rundown of how it's done, but pretty much, that's how I do it. I've done it dozens of times and have not lost a laptop or motherboard ever except for one time when I accidently bent the LGA pins. That was my own fault though for not paying attention.

Hey there are plenty of sites with ROG Phone 5 or 5s. Find your local one.

When it comes to ROG Phone 6 white one I found this on german amazon https://www.amazon.de/-/pl/dp/B0B6PNC9J4/ref=twister_B0B8MZ1JW1?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 and it says that this is going to have a launch on 1st Sep so I can pre-order now. Sounds decent as I see similar price for my local shops selling black version, so perhaps the EU launch of white ones and "pro" version will be on the 1st Sep.

i have the Dark Black version of this pen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099WGK66X/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_62AK6T3AEAA046G8VP6X_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 which has palm rejection, the full 4096 pressure support, tilt and the updated AES2.0 protocol

Don't. Run away from anything Asus. It aint worth it when something goes wrong and you need support or an RMA.

Highly recommend AOC given examples you provided

Your question is a bit confusing. First, this is an Asus reddit, so, I'm assuming in "your computer", you probably have an Asus motherboard with onboard sound controller.

If that is the case, these motherboards have 5 "sound connections" but on 2 are inputs, usually Mic In and Line In.

If your headset have 2 plugs, you want to plug the Mic one in the Mic in and the other one in the Line out. If your headset have only 1 plug it means that it have a connector that have Mic and Headphone in the same plug. In that case, you need an adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-KOOPAO-Microphone-Earphones/dp/B084V3TRTV/ref=sr_1_4?crid=9UMW8O05RX9D&keywords=microphone+headphone+adapter&qid=1660244678&sprefix=microphone+headphone+adapte%2Caps%2C226&sr=8-4

This is the best I can come with the question you made. Please clarify more.

TL;DR: I was underwhelmed and wouldn't buy again.

I had a ton of computers, either whitebox or Dell (desktops and laptops) for years.

In '17 or so I <strong>bought an ASUS</strong> at BBY because it was a good deal on an open box with decent specs and the features I was looking for (SSD & HDD for ex)

• Main battery was horse shit (died in 6 months), CMOS battery was worse (I've had CMOS batteries stay alive for a decade plus, this one was dead in a year)
• They skimped everywhere.
  • Had an M.2 slot, but only included an HDD which was 5400 RPM and crippled the computer. Unusable without buying an SSD upgrade.
  • Windows was listed as "Windows 10 Premium 64-Bit" which my brain registered as "Professional" (as intended no doubt) but it was actually just Windows 10 Home. Not a single 'premium' thing about it. I don't mind the 'Home' edition, but that false advertising has stuck in my craw like nothing else.
  • USB-C couldn't handle the main USB-C features (like HDMI, PD, etc.)
• When the batteries died, I figured I'd buy a new one and wanted to get OEM instead of cheapo Amazon brand. Turns out they don't sell replacement batteries, you have to send it in to them for a swap. No thanks.

I only used it as my daily driver for about 6 months before I bought another Dell (another mistake but for a different reason and at least that lasted 3 years).

FWIW, I just bought a Lenovo (hated them formerly for other reasons they've since resolved) and it's AMAZING. Build quality, components, etc.

Amazon?

This post helped me a lot and gave me the confidence to try out Intel WiFi 6E AX210NGW. Although the description on Amazon mentions specifically mentions that it is only compatible with Intel Processor, but it works like a charm with my Ryzen 5 3550H (Asus FX505DT).

It is triband card but I have only tried 2.4 and 5 GHz (I don't have 6 Ghz connection at home) and it works perfectly fine on these 2 bands.

I got the card for roughly 37.50 USD in India:

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0B51C69DB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I swapped the card last week, haven't faced any disconnection yet. I am also somehow getting better pings and more stable connection on online multiplayer games (Apex Legends & Valorant)

Hope this helps.

Oh WOW : $839.44 add Tax and shipping close to $900 USD Gulp ....

LINK

ASUS ROG Rapture WiFi 6E Gaming Router (GT-AXE16000) - Quad-Band, 6 GHz Ready, Dual 10G Ports, 2.5G WAN Port, AiMesh Support, Triple-Level Game Acceleration, Lifetime Internet Security, Instant Guard

Visit the ASUS Store

3.6 out of 5 stars 7 ratings

$839.44 only one Left order soon as of now 17:21 hours Eastern Time 07-24-2022.

Ok bro I’m a Pc newbie so I’ll just send u my links … this is the laptop I have https://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-tuf-gaming-17-3-laptop-intel-core-i5-8gb-ddr4-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-3050-ti-512gb-ssd-eclipse-grey/6494636.p?skuId=6494636

And this is the ram I was looking at to fil the 2nd slot since laptop comes with 1 stick already Was gonna buy this https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-DDR4-Laptop-Memory-CT8G4SFRA32A/dp/B08C4Z69LN/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=EMKDOHIDKODD&amp;keywords=crucial%2Bram%2B8gb&amp;qid=1658282629&amp;sprefix=cducisl%2Bram%2Caps%2C210&amp;sr=8-3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1

Please please respond and tell me if this is right one to put in I will love you very much !!! Thanks bro

Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-AX200NGW-802-11ax-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B096QSC4F3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3NOM7Z6XKNTXB&amp;keywords=ax200&amp;qid=1658216793&amp;sprefix=ax2%2Caps%2C496&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVy...

I just bought a blower style for my rog strix g513 advantage edition and it lowered my temps by 20c but you have to remember the laptop is so powerful that it thermal throttles you must go into manual mode and turn down the power usage to see the temp difference my went from 96 at 3.6ghz to 96 at 4.3ghz with the cooler, when i brought the power down to match the 3.6ghz i was at 76c. the one i bought is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P8LCCPM/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;aaxitk=b5aa2fdd31e377bda76a994a1b1b3f51&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.53aae2ac-0129-49a5-9c09-6530a9e11786%3Aamzn1.sym.53aae2ac-0129-49a5-9c09-6530a9e11786&amp;hsa_cr_id=7548522390701&amp;pd_rd_plhdr=t&amp;pd_rd_r=7d70b52a-4996-49fa-89ce-034fee4b0c85&amp;pd_rd_w=qnthM&amp;pd_rd_wg=JAD7R&amp;qid=1658149244&amp;ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_lsi4d_asin_0_img&amp;sr=1-1-a094db1c-5033-42c6-82a2-587d01f975e8 , you can also try liquid metal but it is messy to be carful

Not sure I've helped but happy to see someone get to where they need to be. I don't like these little mysteries; if I were you now, I would test the old cables just to put your mind at rest. I have one of these and can swear by it, it has made many a mystery easy to solve as it rules out power issues quickly - Thermaltake PSU tester - if you can't find that then this was my next best device ATX power tester

This can show issues with the cables or with the PSU and even an issue with just one aspect of the PSU/cables...test with old cables then test with CableMod cables. If you only get issues with the old cables then you'll know PSU is fine and I suspect as it is now working, you'll see it that way.

I would just get a solid stand with no moving parts.

You're right about anything with a fan. You don't want them.

https://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Ergonomic-Aluminum-Detachable-Compatible/dp/B07P54RSPY/ref=sxin\_15\_ac\_d\_mf\_br?ac\_md=2-1-TnVsYXh5-ac\_d\_mf\_br\_br&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.7bfca7eb-04a5-48c4-bcec-62026d1ce61f%3Aamzn1.sym.7bfca7eb-04a5-48c4-bce...

There are some cooling pads with filters such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/IETS-Cooling-Flexible-Colorful-Adjustable/dp/B07WVK2ZZ9/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2OBVWJX4FPTNU&amp;keywords=laptop+cooling+pad+with+filter&amp;qid=1657891496&amp;sprefix=laptop+cooling+pad+with+filte%2Caps%2C224&amp;sr=8-4

i still don't get how to fix this issue initially it was working for me initially but after three days its stopped working but its working with other lappie and mobile phone too

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B085HNGLZR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

can any body help me in fixing this issue

Take the one out from the other side of the heatsink and measure it, you can compare it to the screws in kits like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/FandWay-Notebook-Computer-Screwdriver-Samsung-black-silver/dp/B07GCDXX34

I had an Asus board once that came with m2x6 but with a head as wide or wider than the m2x5 shown there, not that head width really matters, smaller holds the part in fine still.

OP, get yourself this exact cooling pad:

IETS GT500 Turbo Cooling Pad

I own a TUF15 and empathize sincerely with your dilemma. Mine has the NVIDIA GTX1660Ti. I used to never be able to utilize the card with games meant for it because it would always overheat my laptop and shut it down.

Now that I own that cooling pad and run the fan on max for gaming, I no longer have these problems. I can now safely play any game I want with zero issues.

Good luck to you.

I am sorry I am stumped, I can confirm it is NOT a capatibility issue. According to https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-970-Gaming-Aura-Motherboard/dp/B01A33PHLA?th=1

the top reviewer actually happens to be using a 1070 with that board

I pretty much bought a pcie card and the Bluetooth wire connection goes to one of the 9 pin USB ports. There aren't many USB ports on the board so I purchased a splitter for it which gave me an extra one for the card.

Works like a charm.

Amazon Pcie card and a USB port splitter... You don't need the splitter if you have a port available, this was just my case.

Card: WiFi 6E PCIe WiFi Card AX210NGW... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P4Q1DVR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Splitter: 9pin USB Header Male 1 to 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q8685Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

What do you mean the problem is with ASUS? You mean with your port?

In terms of data delivery speed, if you can't write data fast enough on the target device, it doesn't matter what's the top speed of your port.

Charging power depends on the device and on the cable as well, not only on the port itself. The amps are not being pushed out through the port, it is being taken up by the device. Devices have charging regulators, which can limit charging power-intake, even cables have charging regulator chip in them now, which can limit the charging power. Try to check the power-output with a USB power tester, something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Functional-Multimeter-Capacity-Temperature-Detector/dp/B093D63L8F/.

Ok, while looking into buying sound cards as a solution, I ran into a workaround. Turns out some external sound cards were having similar problems with TRRS headsets being plugged into a headphone dedicated jacks, due to different power requirements...

The problem with static and "muffleness" we're experiencing on TUF X570 and similar boards is happening on TRRS 3.5mm ports that take out headsets in(headphones+mic).
(For more info about TRRS and 3.5mm jack standards, checkout this guy)

So the workaround would be to buy a 3.5mm splitter, that will separate your TRRS headset into a headphones and mic. This way you can plug them in separately into the mic and audio out ports on your motherboard(pinky and green ones). These can be found on amazon for like 5-8e.

TLDR:

Get a "3.5mm Female to 2 dual 3.5 Male Headphone/Mic Audio Y splitter" on amazon for dirt cheap. Plenty options to choose from. e.g.

If memory serves, they can be unscrewed. They can be replaced by basically any antenna.

You could "upgrade" and get fancy looking ones that do the same: https://www.amazon.com/Superbat-Antenna-Connector-Network-Wireless/dp/B08X4DYQK7

But unless you bent it so far that it cracked the connector or did some really visible damage, you're likely fine.

Finally in stock on Amazon but won't be delivered until July -_- . This launch is really annoying, shouldn't be this difficult to buy their product or know when its going to launch.

This should be sufficient for you. https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-RT-AX56U-Dual-Band-AiProtection-Whole-Home/dp/B082G2KS7K

Please note, while most will want you to sign in or do some cloud login stuff, you DON'T need to. Just connect your Windows, see where you got the IP nr from and fill it in the browser. The config web page will be all you need. The app and other functions, are sometimes handy, with a lot of handholding stuff. But it's NOT necessary to have it function properly.

Also note, the 30 feet is assumed NO REINFORCED CONCRETE walls.

I’m talking about the computer power cord that goes into the XG Mobile to supply power and you can get one like this: StarTech.com 10ft (3m) Computer Power Cord, NEMA 5-15P to C13, 10A 125V, 18AWG, Black Replacement AC Power Cord, Printer Power Cord, PC Power Supply Cable, Monitor Power Cable - UL Listed (PXT101_10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002GRUIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7ZGW19QKH002XDAKY8S0

Or really any pc power cord. But while it will allow you to get the whole XG Mobile unit away from the wall it won’t allow you to do something like say keep the mobile unit on the floor by the couch while you have it connected to the X/Z 13 on your lap while sitting on the couch because the actual proprietary connector is only 12 inches long.

If it wont post at all but its getting power, then the mobo prob fried somewhere (obviously I cant say for certain if I can't run diagnostics on it, I'm just talking about the odds). If you're still under warranty send it back to the manufacturer.

Also obviously the power supply is also in question. If you don't want to take it into a shop buy one of these. Youtube has tutorials.

https://www.amazon.com/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK/ref=sr\_1\_2?keywords=Power+Supply+Test&amp;qid=1654286578&amp;sr=8-2

Any would be compatible. Asus mainboards can cope with most, even with different speeds (usually lowering the faster memory if it must).

So try this: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-DDR4-Laptop-Memory-CT8G4SFRA266/dp/B08C56KXQJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1CLVAI7NT95L&amp;th=1

Yes it's 2666MHz, because I didn't find any resource online which says the FX505 came with 2400MHz memory. But as I said, even if it was, it would still be compatible.

To know if you really need it, just open Task manager and keep an eye on your memory usage. If the laptop slows down, and memory usage is 80+%, you'll know even just one stick (which brings the total to just 12GB) would still help a bit.

I bought a bag of standoffs and screws on amazon . choose the right heigth and you´re good.

OEM type replacement are mostly about the same:

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-FX706LI-FX706LH-G21CN-US007T-G21CN-D-US009T/dp/B089NPXKDK

On that page, scroll a bit down to the "Compare with similar items" section.

Hey ninjakitty232,

I had to travel away from home and just getting time to mods. I have a few additional questions and i would appreciate if you can help.

1. How did you connect all fans? Using a splitter to cha_fan mounts on the mobo? My arctic fans are not pwm 3-pin and coolermaster is 4-pin pwm. I found this splitter but i don’t know how to power them since they are not powered from mobo. I couldn’t find the molex mount in my case that would fit this splitter. If you have any other recommendation, i’d love to hear.

2. If i put two fans as intake(front, place 1-2) and one fan as exhaust (at top, place B), then wouldn’t all the air taken in go up and out right away? Should i try to place it A spot instead of B? Or do you think it is impossible unless it is a slim fan?

3. Do you think i can use silicon fan mounts instead of zip ties?

Thank you!

You can use an Ethernet cable, and if you don't have a Ethernet port on your laptop you can use an adapter like one of these. You'll have to figure out if your PC has the larger USB ports (USB-A) or the smaller ones (USB-C). The one I linked is USB-C.

You need something like this SABRENT USB Type-C to HDMI 2.1 Adapter | 8K/60Hz & 4K/120Hz with DSC Function | 8K/30Hz & 4K Resolution Without DSC | Thunderbolt 3 Compatible (DA-UCH8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y246V8X/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_DXH7YS8GY5BGYRX22Y23

I did! I picked up a couple of these.

Crucial RAM 32GB Kit (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz CL22 (or 2933MHz or 2666MHz) Desktop Memory CT2K16G4DFRA32A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C4LXXCJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_7DHPSTCPZBXNRR8Q51X9?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Actually made a pretty significant difference. Picked up like 15-20 fps in ghostwire Tokyo.

Ah, thanks!

This was just delivered today so may be able to make it work after confirming pics. Can prolly moved wires around...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y663F3S/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Been kind of busy so I haven't had a chance to pull out the cable -- I'll try to get to it this weekend and get the pinouts.

But I don't think you need to solder anything. You can probably manage doing it with regular female-to-female jumper cables:

https://www.amazon.com/GenBasic-Piece-Female-Jumper-Wires/dp/B01L5ULRUA/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3U0MWCDUFNNWV&amp;keywords=jumper%2Bwire%2Bfemale%2Bto%2Bfemale&amp;qid=1652390679&amp;sprefix=jumper%2Bwire%2Bfemale%2Bto%2Bfemal%2Caps%2C149&amp;sr=8-4&amp;th=1

Won't look pretty but who cares? :)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-ADP-180MB-ADP-180HB-FA180PM111-ADP-150VB/dp/B08QF5NP3V/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2ZTSHMXZBN773&amp;keywords=asus+ADP-180&amp;qid=1652366096&amp;sprefix=asus+adp-180%2Caps%2C140&amp;sr=8-1 this seems to fit your laptops standarts but its not asus brand so you may not prefer it. If youre looking for asus branded ones check british websites with "asus adp-180" keywords, you'll probably find one.