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Lesson to learn here, don't trust stupid ranking sites. I'm not sure how they are fucking up their ranking algorithm, but if you look at the actual benchmark section the 6700T is faster. E.g. The ranking at the top says for example " Single-Core Performance: PassMark (Single Core), Geekbench 3 Single Core and 1 more" But if you look at the benchmark values the 6700T has a better score on each of those tests, despite the 4765T having a higher rank in their stupid chart.
Trust the benchmark values, passmark, geekbench, not the number rankings. Even better just go straight to passmark:
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i7-4765T+%40+2.00GHz
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i7-6700T+%40+2.80GHz
That will work. This might be a better deal though. $5 more for not refurbished.
I am almost sure if if it plugs in correctly it should work, but maybe not? Someone might know better... anyways, do a cmos reset, I seem to remember I did it for 90 seconds or so after installing the one I bought, just unplug everything and hold the power button, try again after that, if doesnt work do it for 5 minutes, if not probably battery is bad, or if you are unluck its the mobo.
This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/DBTLAP-compatible-Alienware-Mainboard-CR2032CL-23-2/dp/B0834W8L2R/ worked fine.
If voltage and the tip connector are the same it will work, output equals Volts * Amps, stock is 19.5 * 9.23 = 180w, thus the 330w is 19.5 * 16.9. Voltage is the frequency and must match, amps is the amount of power capable of being delivered, that is fine to exceed.
Since it sounds like it only happens after extended gaming, and summer is coming to an end, the problem may resolve itself with cooling ambient temperatures. Make sure the power supply is in a ventilated area and not on something that will reflect the heat back like carpet (prop it up if possible).
I used to have an Asus laptop that would have the same problem back in the day, I actually ended up using a Heatshift laptop pad under it to increase the heatsinking and that worked out for me. Looks like Amazon only has them in pink (lol) right now but it's pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/ThermaPAK-Laptop-Cooling-Heatshift-Pad/dp/B002VGQMJE
Works by melting a salt that is a solid at room temp, the phase change absorbs the heat. It will resolidify at room temp or you can throw it in the freezer for 10 min during marathon sessions once all the salt has melted. I just put the pad on the ground with the power supply sitting on top of it
Great advice from /u/MDic
I'll just add that I would personally attempt re-installing Windows onto your existing drive. It can sometimes be the case that part of the hard drive went bad that contains files needed to boot into Windows, but the drive is able to recognize that and mark that area of the drive as bad and continue working. But as you've lost files needed to boot Windows, it can't boot anymore. It's more likely it's totally dead, but if it's not it won't cost you anything.
I'd also consider getting an SSD (solid state drive) instead of a hard drive, they are much faster. Maybe something like this: https://slickdeals.net/f/11635631-hp-ssd-s700-2-5-500gb-sata-iii-3d-nand-internal-solid-state-drive-92-99?v=1
https://steamdb.info/search/?a=app&q=&type=-1&category=24
I think Serious Sam 3:BFE is fun as hell co-op.
E.Y.E: Divine Cybermancy is also very good if you want a cyberpunk Deus Ex with magic.
The easiest solution is Pinnacle Game Profiler which has a catalogue of games configurations, so you cna basically play a game it'll auto switch to the confguration of that game and map all the necessary keys to the xbox controller (or any other controller you have). Alas it's not free, but I found it well worth it (it is currently 50% off)
An alternative is Xpadder which is free, it doesnt have the auto switching between games, or the downloadable configus, but if oyu dont mind doing things manually, it;s very easy to use and worksin the same way. Easily remaps keys to the keyboard equivilant and lets you save configs per game so you cna easily switch between games manually as you play different games.
Joy2Key is also good but less user-friendly.
So you are using http://ds4windows.com/ ?
Sounds like you have mouse mode turned on from the Hivemind interface, hot keay deatail shere: http://www.dell.com/support/article/us/en/19/SLN294737/EN
L1 + L2 +R1 + R2 then L3
You can remap whatever you want and even setup profiles for different games/programs. I just use the defaults, works perfect. Only thing I changed was to setup the cool battery charge led indicator feature, mine goes from green to red as the controller charge depletes.
It does indeed sound like the drive is starting to fail. Unfortunately hdd failures are very common especially for seagate drives, (which Alphas come with).
Now your drive might be usable for months or even years in it's current state. Or it might pack in sooner than that.
As others have recommended this is probably the push you need to get an ssd. I know you say you currently don't have the budget for it, but if this drive dies you're gonna be without a functioning alpha. 120GB ssds are as cheap as £30 these days, so any budget can accommodate. You can always get a 120gb ssd now and upgrade it to a 500gb or 1tb ssd in the future when you have more money.
Or you can just keep using your current drive and wait until it finally packs up entirely. Just make sure you setup an auto backup every few hours or every day so you don't lose anything important. As it's a gaming device you can always reinstall games and such on the next drive so you wont lose much.
Steam has Cloud sync for some games, but many games do not sync game saves online (I learned this the hard way) so use Gamesave-manager so schedule backups to a usb stick or network share so you always have your game saves safe.
Once the drive fails, you'll hopefully be in a better place to spend that £30 on a 120GB ssd and then you just redownload your steam games and copy the game save backups back over.
Dear god no Daemon Tools please, use WinCDEmu, open source and no adware crap like Daemon: http://wincdemu.sysprogs.org/
Gamecopyworld is your friend when it comes to no cd executables: http://gamecopyworld.com/games/pc_the_elder_scrolls_4.shtml
Not sure about the steam controller, but the alpha was originally designed to be a steam machine so I think the controller will work fine.
I have already installed a dual boot of steamos beta and windows/alpha ui on my alpha and both are working great.
You can download the steamos here http://store.steampowered.com/steamos/buildyourown
Unless you already own win10, you cant. I recommend you grab a live usb of Fedora Linux and install that, just so you have an operating system. It's no windows, but it works.
It will take any 2.5" SSD. I suggest looking on slickdeals.net for a sale, SSDs get significantly discounted pretty regularly.
IMHO upgrading the RAM is not worth it unless you have a specific reason you need more RAM, it will not help game performance. Use that money to get a bigger SSD.
E.g. here is one for $65: https://slickdeals.net/f/9799699-256-gb-adata-ultimate-su800-3d-nand-2-5-sata-iii-internal-ssd-for-65-99-ar-free-shipping-newegg-com
You should be able to find a 512 GB for ~$110.
> I would only really be able to afford a 120gb ssd and that wouldn't store games anyway
How so? Even a 500 GB SSHD is gonna run you $40-$50 for a deal, $70-$80 for a 1 TB.
You can get a 240 GB SSD for right around there, e.g.: https://slickdeals.net/f/9481827-pc-components-deepcool-gammaxx-300-120mm-pwm-fan-cpu-cooler-w-3-heatpipes-for-9-99-ar-250-gb-sk-hynix-2-5-sata-iii-tlc-ssd-for-57-99-ac-fs-newegg
$57.99 250 GB.
Plus even a 120 GB would have room for at least a few games, windows uses 20 GB or so leaving you 100 GB for programs and games.
I've owned SSDs literally since they came out (Intel X25-M G1 oh yeah). I would literally not build a system for someone without one at this point, every time I use a machine with a HDD I want to die it's so slow. One of those things where once you experience it you can't go back.
FYI great deal if you haven't bought a drive yet: https://slickdeals.net/f/8207481-250gb-samsung-850-evo-2-5-solid-state-drive-75-free-s-h
I'd recommend cloning the drive or doing a fresh install rather than doing the repawn backup.
Exactly one penny under $130 for a 480 GB drive. ;)
I bet you have a 1tb hard drive or something, the good news its you can keep it as a media/storage 2nd drive and setup somthing like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MG119KG/ref=twister_B08D7638C8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
As your primary boot drive, should give the R2 a new lease of life. If you can pick up a 16GB dimm cheap too, it should help a fair bit.
This is the one I got at Amazon: Crucial 4GB Single DDR3 1600 MT/s (PC3-12800) CL11 SODIMM 204-Pin 1.35V/1.5V Notebook Memory Module CT51264BF160B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LDLV6S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_YllLvbE5X8DB5
Installing was easy. There are a few tutorials on YouTube you can follow along. Just look up Alienware Alpha upgrade. Good luck!
I posted this same answer in your r/alienware thread. Hopefully this helps you and anyone else as I was looking for the same thing:
I have the Alienware Alpha official carrying case and it's pretty sweet and small and fits everything for the alpha in it. But I decided to not use it and instead got a laptop bag and neoprene sleeve to carry my alpha in. I have my motorola lapdock screen, mouse, controller, power cables, and small keyboard in it.
-Amazon 15.6in bag...could probably use one of the smaller options too; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUGZFWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-Neoprene sleeve I used...very tight fit and you need to stretch the neoprene when you're zipping it up: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002E9HAT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's not as elegant or well packaged as the official case but it does what I want it to do.
You could always get the Syber Steam Machine Core. Sure, it does have Steam OS, but you can put windows on it. It is fully upgradeable and xbox-one sized. There is also the Syber Vapor E, an old model, that has windows and is fully upgradeable as well, for $500 on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Syber-Vapor-SVEB300-Desktop-Black/dp/B01717UEIC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463794044&sr=8-1&keywords=Syber+Vapor+E
https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/system/Syber_Steam_Machine_Core
I have 12gb in mine, amazon bud. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG8X9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Played gta 5 overclocked and completely maxed out and it handled it while hanging around 50fps which is honestly good enough for me for only paying 224. The graphics card is extemely overclockable too
Open it yourself, only 4 screws it's pretty easy. Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRObVP_diL4
This is the cheapest one on Amazon currently I think, $28: https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-1600MHz-PC3-12800-KVR16LS11/dp/B00CQ35GYE
I got mine on Amazon Primeday for a little over $300. There's a used/refurb for sale for $307 now. Steam machine, but comes with 8GB, other specs are same as entry level Alpha. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01617UJDI/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ASUS MB169B+ 15.6" Full HD 1920x1080 IPS USB Portable Monitor
It has this specs
Apparently it has a response time of 14 ms
If you are in the US you could get it from amazon and return if it doesn’t work for you.
I believe it will. I bought the one below from Amazon and it works very well. Division 2 runs amazingly now.
Corsair Vengeance SODIMM 16GB(1x16GB) DDR4 2400 C16 for Intel Core i7 6th and 7th Gen Laptops and NUC Mini PCs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077S17RPZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f-67Cb8SSF7ST
So according to slickdeals, Frys will have a Gigabyte BRIX Gaming barebones system on sale tomorrow. $700, requires ram and storage and an OS.
https://www.frys.com/product/9370330?nearbyStoreName=false&site=frilanding111618
Dimensions are 220 mm x 110 mm x 110 mm which is 8.6"x4.3"x4.3" ... its got some different dimensions, comes with a 6gb 1060 GPU. I would question how well this dissipates heat however and whether the GPU is upgradeable (I'd be surprised if it was).
On newegg there are only 2 reviews for this device.
Hey partner, I ran this noctua 5v fan on that large hole I cut out of your machine and noise was much better, under full load gaming it could still get quite loud but in general much lower.
I would agree with most of this - on the peripherals side I would suggest just buying an inexpensive docking stations like the Dell D6000 - only about $20-$25 used on Amazon.
Processor - it's my understanding that the i7-4765T is the max upgrade for this? Does the aforementioned actually work at full clock speed? And does it require using a different power supply?
To clarify. Xbox 360 controllers work with Windows 10, via usb natively. You need no adapters
For wireless however, you need a Xbox 360 Wireless Receiver. Microsoft stopped making these for 360s so you'd need a 3rd party like https://www.amazon.com/Mcbazel-Wireless-Receiver-Microsoft-Xbox-360/dp/B076GZFLR3/
To clarify. Xbox 360 controllers work with Windows 10, via usb natively. YOu need no dapters
For wireless however, you need a Xbox 360 Wireless Receiver. Microsoft stopped making these for 360s so you'd need a 3rd party like https://www.amazon.com/Mcbazel-Wireless-Receiver-Microsoft-Xbox-360/dp/B076GZFLR3/
> SteamOS is a solution in search of a problem.
The problem stated above, that people want simple interfaces and experiences. Despite your aspersions about linux, there are over 1,000 games already: https://steamdb.info/linux/
If someone that knows nothing about computers comes to me and wants to get into PC gaming, Steam OS on an Alpha is a very attractive choice. I don't want to have to maintain Windows for them :P
Do you have the 30 or 70 T model? If you have the 30, then consider upgrading your processor. If you have the 70 model then you probably have 8GB of RAM, anything less than that is probably not going to cut it. If you are wondering before you buy, http://www.systemrequirementslab.com/cyri should be able to tell you with semi accurate results on whether or not you can run it.
It's a GTX960, and I don't know why they put 965 (965M is a mobile variant, and that's not what this has).
I think that $900 is still a bit steep for this unit, especially since this one doesn't have the 1TB HDD.
I paid $675 (which was after $150 rebate) directly from Dell, refurbished, in April 2017. It came absolutely brand new, even with plastic wrap, with a one year warranty. Then and even today, this was a great deal.
At this price point and with the aging 960, I'd recommend going with a unit similar to this i7-8700 + GTX1070 for $1090, which was recently on sale: https://slickdeals.net/f/11760803-dell-inspiron-desktop-i7-8700-8gb-gtx-1070-256gb-ssd-16gb-ddr4-1090-free-shipping?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1
I personally stuck a 1070Ti into my R2 via an AGA and have no regrets.
fwiw, I followed the upgrade guides in this sub and spent $20 on this upgrade.
Intel Wireless-Ac 9260, 2230, 2X2 Ac+Bt, Gigabit, No Vpro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QH5KW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_M0NS0NH2WPH90FNG219Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
est 30min for my second time opening up the R1 and plugging in a component.
The specs say this supports BT 5.0. I did need to install the Intel driver to make this device recognized. The primary difference I noted was significantly better wifi throughput and signal stability at about 40 ft from the router.
Razer Kraken Pro. You'll need one of these in order for it to work though.
And this too.
Maybe this? You'd plug it into the Alpha. Not sure if it would work.
That's the regular desktop 6700, not the 6700T that is in the Alpha.
Passmark scores are about the only direct comparison:
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i7-6700T+%40+2.80GHz
https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i7-4790K+%40+4.00GHz
So it's ~25% slower.
You may be getting dual channel already, the sticks don't have to be exactly matched, download CPU-Z and check https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
You don't have to get that exact same Crucial chip, any 8 GB 1600 stick will do, if one has slower timings than the other the BIOS will just select that.
It actually looks like the pricing was weird or something and people were reacting. I'd look back every once in a while and see what's available. Also, there is a chrome browser extension called camelizer that can track pricing you might could use to see if it's a good price on amazon.
You can add the 2 following PPAs for faster-than-normal nvidia driver updates (355 has been solid for me), and the SteamOS bits if you want a dedicated session for console mode. If you have an xbox or ps4 controller you'll want to install steamos-xpad-dkms too.
I mean really they are both overpriced at this point. If you are looking at spending 620 just drop another $80 and get this: https://slickdeals.net/f/10926875-new-dell-inspiron-15-laptop-w-nvidia-gtx-1060-maxq-700
That laptop will spank the R2 in performance. Or if you really need the form factor for some reason: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856173149
A 1060 is around twice the performance of a 960.
For those interested, here is the CPU and seller. This was my first time upgrading a CPU and applying paste. I followed guides linked in other posts in this forum and youtube guides on the different ways of applying paste. Since I had taken apart the Alpha r1 for ram and radio, this upgrade took about 15 min.
I also bought this thermal paste.
Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut The High... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
sure. I think the model is also in the benchmark.
https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-1600MHz-PC3-12800-204-Pin-Notebook/dp/B0191WAGE2
caveat. My "research" was no more than a hour or so of googling. There was a dizzying array of product choice online and suggestions in this sub. I was a bit concerned about SO DIMM. This seems to have better power consumption, but I wonder if this comes as a hit to speed?
I would recommend running UserBenchmark on your system before upgrade and compare results with mine. Would also be great if we can share benchmarks. :)
You can turn an Alpha into a steam machine using a method similar to this
Honestly I'd strongly advise against it. There's just not enough Linux games to make it worthwhile. So I'd say get an Alpha and stick with the Windows build on it.
If you go to https://steamdb.info/linux/ and login with your Steam account it'll show you all the linux games available, and in green all the ones you own. When you compare that to the thousands of windows games on Steam, I'd say SteamOS is not a sensible option at this time.
I think that the complaints about having to go get a keyboard and mouse to facilitate logins and passwords was enough to make Dell abandon the idea of shipping with a controller. I would have solved it by adding the typepad to the 360 controller, however.
Something like this
For what I paid for my Alpha, I think that it should have came with both.
It's already at one of the lowest prices it's even been.
edit: That doesn't mean no, just that it's already basically on sale.
Give this a shot: http://pinnaclegameprofiler.com/
only $6
I got it like 10 years ago for $20, and I still get updates.
Works with any input device, so you can go to GameStop and buy a used PS4 PS3 Xbox, or what ever other controller that has a USB port.
There are free things too liike Magpie, and Xpadder, but they are not as well done.
No experience with LaunchBox, I'll have to check it out.
For touchpad control, with the Dual Shock 4 you can use http://ds4windows.com/ to have it emulate a Xbox 360 controller plus you get mouse control with the built in controller touchpad in the whole OS (pretty slick, has left and right click buttons too). Steam also has started supporting DS4 controllers as of a month or so ago with touchpad support, so you could use that option while Steam is running (prob the best for your setup).
And finally the Steam controller is prob the best for non gaming usage IMHO, right touchpad controls the mouse, left touchpad for scrolling, joystick up/dowm/left/right arrow keys, and more, here's the default setup: http://www.howtogeek.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/ximg_56a5535e15a9e.png.pagespeed.gp+jp+jw+pj+js+rj+rp+rw+ri+cp+md.ic.KKPrjlNM5T.png
But you can customize the Steam controller any way you want and even have preset modes that you can switch between based on running app or button combo presses. Sky is the limit with the Steam controller.
This is the tool I'd recommend for a ds4: http://ds4windows.com/
Will work both wired and wireless. That program works by fooling Windows into thinking the ds4 is an Xbox controller so the buttons will be Xbox buttons in games, however, some newer games have native support for the ds4 controller and you won't need to use the ds4windows program and the buttons will be ds4 buttons. Recent examples I can think of are Rocket League and Mad Max, works natively.
Pretty much any SSD is good, there is not a huge difference in performance between them these days. There are guides to changing the drive in the sidebar ->
Just ordered my Alpha so no direct experience but I use ds4windows on my current desktop: http://ds4windows.com/ It emulates an Xbox 360 controller to Windows and you can connect via BT or USB. So I guess the only challenge would be to get ds4windows to run on login in Alpha UI mode.
Haven't done much research on that part yet but my first guesses would be either ctrl-alt-del while in Alpha UI, run explorer.exe, setup ds4windows and add shortcut in startup folder (not sure if startup gets executed if explorer.exe doesn't run on login though, so that might not work). I have also seen stuff on here about getting Alpha UI launchable from desktop mode, so you could switch to dekstop mode and have Alpha UI and ds4windows set to auto launch.
I'll let you know what I come up with (though I may just ditch the Alpha UI and go steam big picture).
You can use the Windows Installer to see if your HDD shows up as an option to install to. If not it's likely dead; if it does show up it probably is damaged and lost data, you might be able to recover data with a tool like https://www.hirensbootcd.org/ but I would get a new drive for sure, SSDs are cheap these days and so much nicer than HDD.
If you boot to desktop mode you should be able to find the little windows icon in your task tray. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/windows-10-upgrade
I keep forgetting to boot to desktop to look for this on my Alienware Alpha, but I've done it on my other 2 computers already. If you reserve it through that tray icon it should be all you have to do to prepare. I'm just hoping the Alpha UI ports well to it...
> The R1 i3 / R2 i5 is a tricky binary, considering the second option is much more expensive (reasonably so). Do you know of any midground between these two?
Frankly what I would do since it sounds like you are not in a rush, is be patient and keep your eyes out for a deal. E.g. a few months back the i5/960 could be had for $600: https://slickdeals.net/f/9030303-alienware-alpha-desktop-i5-6400t-4gb-gtx960-8gb-ddr4-500gb-hdd-win-10-600-after-100-slickdeals-rebate-free-shipping
Also if you check the Dell Outlet (refurbished stuff) frequently you can find some good deals. E.g there is an R2 i7/960 with upgraded wifi for $769 right now ($20 more than the base i3/960). I have never had an issue with Dell refurb and they have the same warranty as new.
Can also check ebay and craigslist for Alpha R1 on the cheap. A decent deal on ebay is around $275-$300 for an i3 R1 these days.
And the i3 R2 is fine as well if the $50 savings would make a big diff for you.
CPU is same if not easier to swap than a desktop.
Upgrade to 8GB of RAM first for sure. Then SSD.
They getting cheap: https://slickdeals.net/f/8168434-250gb-samsung-850-evo-2-5-solid-state-drive-ssd-75-free-shipping
Yeah the X51 allows for more upgrading but is not nearly the same value. If you are not comfortable building your own PC I'd go Alpha. Very easy to upgrade the RAM on the Alpha, 4 screws and you are in.
This one is even faster than the one the other person suggested.
WiFi 6E AX210 Expands Wi-Fi into 6GHz with Bluetooth 5.2 Tri-Band WiFi 6 Module for Laptop and Desktop Support Windows10 64bit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MJLPZPL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TE6S0YQ6CT4CSKP0S28R
This is what I put in my machine back in March. I have been using it almost every day since for work and play
ITX build in a fractal design node 202 is probably the best if you don't want to drop a lot of coin, it's the nicest space efficient full size GPU case under $100 IMHO. https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-FD-CA-NODE-202-BK-Case/dp/B015MKDOPU
this. I actually use this hub with four 1&2 TB drives and had an internal ssd of 128gb to run Windows. My own tiny server.
Do you know if it's on DVD or blue ray? In most cases, the CD just has the installation files on it, not requiring you to use the CD to actually play it (on PC, consoles are different). If it's a DVD, any simple usb 3.0 would work, such as this. If it's a big game, it might be on blue ray and you can get any USB 3.0 drive for it. If you have amazon prime, my advice would be to wait, see if you can download the game and just use the key to redeem it instead of potentially wasting money.
It sounds like maybe you should update more drivers and/or do a reinstall/reset of windows. You're correct the card isn't great but it shouldn't cause the problem you're talking about.
The 7265 that comes in the i5/i7 models is only $14 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-7265-IEEE-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B00RCZ4I6S/
Careful because it is definitely addictive. In the couple of years we have had it, we've spent a lot of $ at used movie stores, Amazon, etc filling out our collection.
That and more discs = more space needed. Expanded our storage to 4x8tb drives inside one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-SATA-Hard-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B078YNYG6T/
I briefly mentioned the following: https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-W010-Wireless-Sensor-DolphinBar/dp/B00HZWEB74/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2URHXRKIE2Y8N&dchild=1&keywords=mayflash+dolphinbar&qid=1601349364&sprefix=mayflash+dol%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-3
It makes pairing a WiiMote effortless, and gives multifunctionality to the WiiMote (*It can be used to control your mouse). I had been thinking of a practical way to use an airMouse perhaps to play lightGun games from Mame, and Saturn, however this might be the perfect solution, and thought I'd share if anyone had ever considered similar. Perhaps I'll try using the WiiMote Zapper adapter, or a variant to get close to the original feeling of something like Virtua Cop, or Time Crisis... Time Crisis though really needs the forceFeedback like the arcade.
I don't know, but you can get one I just bought and installed myself from Amazon for less than $20.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00STV5UKW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just did it. So far so good. Less than $20 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00STV5UKW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No I’m not. This is what I bought though. Maybe it will help?
BIOS CMOS RTC Battery for Dell Alienware Alpha Steam Machine i5 i7 Desktop by Rome Tech OEM - Yellow Light Fix - CR2032CL-23-2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CLC97ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_twiyDbQ0T4P1P
Depends on the adapter you get and what your monitor actually needs. DP to HDMI 1.3 is ~$10 and will do 1080p just like regular HDMI 1.3. If you need HDMI 2.0 for 4k usage they're about $20 for those adapters from what I've seen.
So this for 2.0: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8
And this for 1.3: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-Gold-Plated-Compatible/dp/B017Q8ZVWK/
You may need to buy an adapter unless those headphones come with one to plug into a USB port. Free is free though. Adapter will run you $8? https://smile.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO/
The controller would plug in and be usable right away.
honestly, what I did was buy a 120 for Windows and WoW and then i bought a HDD dock for the original HDD. All my stuff runs great. HDD Dock Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Trident-VR7RC-020US-Desktop-i5-7400/dp/B01NAP5T5V
it seems solid for the price but I can't tell if it's a quad core or 2 core i5, it says quad in title but description list 2 cores. for the price though it should last you a few years but keep in mind that's a low end 1060 with 3gb ram so it will show it's age quicker than a standard 1060 6gm model
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQ35GYE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought the Kinston, shown above. As long is its the same kind of RAM and the same Specs it shouldn't really matter. Although if there is a problem the PC will probably show some kind of error or crash.
There's multiple solutions for audio on the R2 – I use these two: https://smile.amazon.com/Logitech-981-000536-G430-Gaming-Headset/dp/B00CQ35C1Q/ - audio via USB (which is via the $7 adapter that was also mentioned) Plus I have HDMI carrying my audio to my monitor, which has headphone out to 2.0 speakers when I'm not gaming.
It's worth mentioning that there's an optical out, but I don't recommend buying dedicated speakers with this function as it's less versatile later on. Bluetooth is also an option, but you chance running into the problem of having connectivity issues periodically.
Hope this helps.
Hi again, thanks for the update!
I just got a new GTX 1060: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-TURBO-GTX1060-6G-GB-Graphics-Card/dp/B01IPFMVCQ
But I still have the issue of the AGA not showing up in command centre!? I followed your steps and tried the FX tester, and the same as you, I can change the colour of the amp that way, but not in command centre.
So Dell think it's a hardware failure then?????
I had the same question. I bought this Amazon powered USB hub w/ 7 ports. I got the powered one because my external DVD/Blueray player said it needed one? But I use the port for 2 HDD, 2 wireless dongles for keyboard & mouse, 1 DVD drive, and something else I can't think of right now. The steam controller is still hooked into the bottom of the unit's USB port and I use the front USBs for plugging in wired xbox controllers. Anyway, it works fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GX4BG/ref=twister_B00FB50S0Q?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
This is what I got for my R1 to upgrade it to 8gb total. The 1.35v is important.
Kingston Technology 4GB 1600MHz DDR3L PC3-12800 1.35V Non-ECC CL11 SODIMM Intel Laptop Memory KVR16LS11/4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CQ35GYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0dbpzbKHQECVG
You don't give your specs, but it sounds like you need to up your memory from 4GB to 8GB. For $30 at Amazon. Also, an SSD is a wonder on load times.
You'll need something that has the 3 required 3.5 jacks for 5.1 audio. The alpha doesn't have those built in, so you'll have to get a USB adapter. Like this.
Thanks. And it's just plug and play? 5.1 surround sound ready on the Alpha? And will it work with this one? External 5.1 USB 3D Audio Sound Card Adapter for PC Desktop Notebook Laptop https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B001MW92AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-jPizbW4KAHVP
I bought this one and it's worked perfectly for me. I read a lot of reviews and realized it was worth it to spend a bit more for something that was stable and reliable.
Currently, a new Aurora R6 via Dell.com w/ $50 promo has the lowest spec version new for $749.99: 7th Generation Intel® Core™ i5-7400 Processor Windows 10 Home 64-bit English 8GB DDR4 at 2400MHz; up to 64GB AMD Radeon™ RX 460 with 2GB GDDR5
Yes you're overpaying compared to DIY, but I get it. I think everyone should buy Alienware at least once. The Aurora is easy, no tool access, and you can change out the GPU inevitably, where as you cannot w/ the Alpha.
If set on Alpha, I saw a Alpha R1 for approximately $300, new, shipped / purchased via Amazon, but sold by Dell. The 960 is a poor GPU these days (As is the AMD 460 mentioned above) so the R1 would be the better value for hundreds less, and not too far off performance. It's essentially a PS4.
EDIT: Take that back, it's a Steam machine: https://www.amazon.com/Alienware-Machine-Console-NVIDIA-GeForce/dp/B016IH067A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492625307&sr=8-1&keywords=alienware+steam+machine but it's the same thing without windows 10, which you should get a free copy via your School (*I did). Add 4GB DDR3, SSD, and Best value right there. Give me rep people
You need to find out if its the R1 or R2 you have!
If it's the R2, then it only has 1 x SODIMM slot, so you cant add another 4GB, you will have to buy a 8 or 16GB stick to replace your 4GB one completely. Its DDR4 also.
I put this in my R2: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BNJL8K2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But you can go for the cheaper 2133MHz version as that's the max speed the Alpha uses. My 2400MHz works but only runs at 2400MHz.
Hope this helps
No IR remote for any Alpha model. There is this listing in Amazon that suggests KODI support so you may want to invest in that if you would like: https://www.amazon.com/Inteset-External-Infrared-Center-Receiver/dp/B00J5NRWFO
FYI your post was removed because you didnt remove the ref part of the amazon url.
This is an acceptable version of your link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YPB6HQ
Feel free to resubmit if you still need answers
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oTuMybHXE13KT
This will split a headset with mic into the two plugs.
Or Logitech g230 will plug right in.
Logitech G230 Stereo Gaming Headset with Mic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFOEY4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CVuMybWN2A1RF
You can also use a splitter like so: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/
Just be sure to match the type of splitter you get with the type of headphone you have (there are two types, OMTP or CTIA, mic and ground swapped).
Look at New and used. Also looking at this
Alienware Steam Machine ASM100-6980BLK Desktop Console (Intel Core i7, 8 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD) NVIDIA GeForce GTX GPU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015XK1O6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XMuJyb11AEJBN
Where do you get them cheap?
Search for USB powered monitor (powered being the important part) and make sure it has HDMI input, like so: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PQDHAMW/
Cheaper option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J52TWD4?psc=1
Saw this thread and remembered that I had these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1D98I8?psc=1 stashed in a drawer. They work fine to add some clearance underneath the Alpha, and you can also route cables front/back. Winning?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CRJRC3U/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_bosrybXNKMQ1P is the one I purchased at the time was on sale for around 80 I have seen one from Dell on sale in and off around that price as well
For sure upgrade the ram to 8GB, I did that immediately. I bought a ram stick along with my Alpha and they both shipped together. This is the one I got, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CP5R8K.
Also upgrade the HDD. I didn't know how important that was until a year later (now), when i started playing more demanding games. Loading times are slow with the standard 5200 RPM drive it includes. But if you had to choose between the two, I would say upgrade the ram first. 4GB is not going to cut it for a lot of games.
On a side note, you might also want to consider getting a USB hub if you're going to be plugging in a lot of things.
Most USB monitors use their own drivers for graphics so not good for gaming.
The one you linked uses USB type C so not compatible with the Alpha.
There are USB powered monitors that get signal via HDMI, that would work, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PQDHAMW/
I purchased the Pluggable USB 3.0 model and it's worked like a charm. I didn't feel like trying some of the cheaper adapters out there and went with the one with the most positive reviews.
isnt this the one that comes with it? i want the exact same chip if i upgrade. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-PC3-12800-1600MHz-204-Pin-M471B5273DH0-CK0/dp/B009AEYBYI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480235093&sr=1-3&keywords=samsung+4gb+ddr3l
Check with others, I just bought my SteamMachine today. But watching youtube videos I'll be buying this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KSLPNN0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I have this/ it works well, pretty good sound quality too.
so i'd be safe with going with this ram ? https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin-Memory/dp/B007B5S52C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475636325&sr=8-1&keywords=DDR3L%2BSoDIMM%2B1600%2BMHz&th=1
also I followed the post on what you linked, it looked like everything was bolted down and intact so im not sure now, ill just keep a eye on temps and hope i dont have to do warranty
I use mine as an HTPC so hooked up to receiver + speakers.
Cheapest option would be USB sound card like so: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
Best bang for your buck IMHO would be to get a Turtle Beach Ear Force DSS, cheap surround headphone amp that takes optical input. They don't make them new anymore but you can find them on ebay easy under $20, e.g.: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turtle-Beach-Ear-Force-DSS-7-1-Dolby-Surround-Sound-Processor-x11-p11-/272275549904?hash=item3f64e32ed0
USB headsets work too.