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They have them in 120mm and 140mm. this specific link is to the 140mm fans but their store on Amazon has multiple bundles and sizes depending on what you’re looking for
Apevia LP314L-RGB Lunar Pro 140mm Silent Dual-Ring Addressable RGB Color Changing LED Fan for Gaming with Remote Control, 32x LEDs & 8X Anti-Vibration Rubber Pads (3-pk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R6P9YDN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7H83DQ52CDT4P2A9ZYAT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here is the 120mm set
Apevia LP412L-RGB Lunar Pro 120mm Silent Dual-Ring Addressable RGB Color Changing LED Fan for Gaming with Remote Control, 28x LEDs & 8X Anti-Vibration Rubber Pads (4-pk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NY1GKJH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J16C9YM7DWK0GM2AJT00
Just got the same system not too long ago! I would highly recommend switching out the CPU Fan for a better one. I was having some overheating issues and unfortunately out of the box I was running 100 degrees Celcius in gaming and it would even shut the system down!
Here is a link to the new one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QMK5R45/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Super easy, it took me just under an hour, just be careful and you'll be good.
​
Take it easy!
My vote is for replace.... I would equate it to buying something from harbor freight and not expecting it to break after 1 use. If you can afford a 3080 you can afford a good power supply.
​
Let me help: https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-850FX-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B073H3ZZQZ
Most Gaming laptops nowadays use something called an Audio Combo Jack, where the Audio/Mic both goes to the same output but most desktop gaming rigs still use use Audio In / Audio Out
Google, you'll figure it out (it'll be different per mobo). But really, just use it as it arrives. Use something like this to see how well cooling is within your system. If temperatures remain low (sub 80c under load) then consider looking into OC if you feel like it. If you get the performance you want without OC, then just don't. Even if your build can OC and push out another 300mhz or whatever, the sound quality with increased fans may not be worth the performance tradeoff.
or if you want some more RGB, I am using this one for my 3090: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterAccessory-Universal-Orientations/dp/B08VVPPPZK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1TUL9O6D784W1&dchild=1&keywords=cooler+master+gpu+support&qid=1627578630&s=electronics&sprefix=cooler+master+gpu%2Celectronics%2C154&sr=1-2
They're all universal, at least the one I got for my 3070. Search amazon for gpu support stand. They're really cheap. I got something like this one:
Totally negates any sag.
I would get a paste that has a spreader and just coat it as evenly as possible. If that weren't an option though I'd apply it in a "5" dots, like on a domino or playing card.
Yeah even with my custom build I don’t know what 3060 I’ll get. If I had to guess you’ll most likely get the evga one and by any means as long as everything is working fine you should have enough time to get a good psu.
This is the one I ordered along with a case with better airflow
Except that's just regular Crucial Ballistix RAM and not meant to light up. My prebuilt has the same RAM. https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-Ballistix-Desktop-Gaming-BL2K8G32C16U4R/dp/B083TSJ8NM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=crucial+ballistix+red&qid=1614386797&sr=8-1
If CS won't help you. You could try a paint pen.
https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Writer-Car-Paint-Marker/dp/B00SRKSSRW
Meant for cars, but could work for you.
Bought it from Amazon. Only thing I added was ram couple days ago. I wonder if that's why my LED lights went out but that doesn't make sense cause they were working for a couple days. LEDs were working then they froze on a color and I shut my PC off now they won't turn back on lol
CYBERPOWERPC BattleBox Essential GLC5000CPG Gaming PC (Intel i7-8700K 3.7GHz, 16GB DDR4, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB, 120GB SSD, 2TB HDD, WiFi & Win10 Home) Blk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TJCTGP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sJYZBbZP6BAWK
With the money he'll save compared to the pricier builds he could buy a 144Hz monitor like this one when it comes into stock to get the most out of the PC:
Acer XFA240, Full HD 144Hz GSYNC Monitor ($184.99):https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XFA240-bmjdpr-Response-Technology/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=acer+xf240h+bmjdpr+24&qid=1600071629&sr=8-2
You probably have to buy one separately, they usually only include enough SATA cables for the drives that are included in the system. You can pick up SATA cables pretty cheap on Amazon.
As the link you provided, I can guess that you only get 2 fans on AIO because it's 240 and 1 for exhaust fan. I have a pc from them with same case and I got 3 fans on AIO as mine is 360 and 1 exhaust fan so should be similar.
As long as you only play games, I think the temp might not be bad with the 240 because Ive seen review of 13900k get over 90 degrees very quickly underload and they are using 360.
Best fans for cheap price is Arctic P12, you can watch the review if you decide buy it
Here is the link of 5 packs for only 30$: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ACFAN00137A-Value-Pack-Pressure-Optimized/dp/B07HC782D5/ref=sr\_1\_1?keywords=arctic+p12+pwm+pst+5+pack&qid=1669699545&sprefix=arctic+p12%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-1
What adapter would your recommend I buy?
It's the crappy cooler master CPU cooler. That particular cooler master cooler, the bottom is smaller then the processors heat spreader causing over heating issues. Cooler performs worse then the stock wraith stealth cooler. Bought a different cyberpowerpc with a 600g, but it came with the same exact cooler and had issues with heat, when doing benchmarks/stress test temps would reach spike above 90. Just replaced the crappy cooler master cooler with this and temps now max out at 76 under benchmarks/stress test, and that's with slight overclock. FYI, if your tech savvy enough, I'd relocate 2 front fans to the top of the case or just throw in 2 extra fans when can be purchased on amazon pretty cheaply.
Based on a quick search, these might do the job. They are addressable and work with the ARGB header on the motherboard. I know you linked your mobo in the post, but I didn't look just make sure it has a 5v ARGB header and they would work.
Upon further looking... thoughts on these ones?
​
UPDATE: Found a set on Amazon ordered them yesterday, got them today and they worked like a charm.Wish CyberPowerPC support would ship things faster or at least know a little more about their own cases:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WGTPBFH/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Found a set on amazon ordered them on the 3rd, got them already and they worked like a charm. Wish CyberPowerPC support would know a little more about their own cases:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WGTPBFH/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
If you don't care about RGB, an easy, good, and fairly inexpensive solution are some Arctic P120 PWM/PST fans. They offer speed control and they daisy chain right out of the box so no need for fan splitter cables. They run $30 for a 5pack. The nice thing is, unlike the Apevia fans, they can be speed controlled using the fan headers on your motherboard. Just don't plug more than 3 onto a single header. https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ACFAN00137A-Value-Pack-Pressure-Optimized/dp/B07HC782D5/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=1QYBUQF1JW8R9&keywords=arctic%2Bp12&qid=1651819642&sprefix=arctic%2Bp12%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3&th=1
Yeah it definitely try it, solved my issue! And depending on the fans you get (I got some sweet Corsair ones), I was able to use the wires below to hook it all up. Was super easy.
CRJ 4-Pin Molex to 4 x 3/4-Pin PC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPXR8KS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I was able to use this pin connector to connect 3 fans (up to 4 on these wires) from the existing fan pins that came with my CP PC. Was super easy to set up! The only downside is that since this isn’t connected to the mother board the fans are always running at 100%, I don’t mind since they’re exhaust fans though.
CRJ 4-Pin Molex to 4 x 3/4-Pin PC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPXR8KS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You're right about Linux. I am running PopOS which derives from Ubuntu. I have tried both PopOS' previous and latest versions (21.04 and 21.10) without a meaningful change in behavior. PopOS in my experience is quite stable with overall good support in particular for Nvidia graphics.
At the time I bought this machine from Cyberpower, I also bought a similarly configured PC from iBuyPower (same CPU, same motherboard, also a 3090, same amount of RAM, same RAM speed, etc). No issues with that system whatsoever. I do not think it's a driver or OS issue especially given there is nothing in the logs that I have seen to indicate that.
i ended up getting these for $23: https://www.amazon.com/CX6-darkFlash-120mm-RGB-Case/dp/B097BJMMNM
they have rgb, pwm fan speed control, and the control hub. I didn't choose to get corsair fans since they cost $30 each, way too expensive IMO. The only drawback to my fans are that it doesn't remember the rgb color I set it to, so I have to change it every time I wanna see any other color besides red :/ overall happy though, cheap option for fans since I just wanted them to be PWM so I can lower the noise.
Sorry, just saw this! These are the fans I bought - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VGN4M1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Here is the proof, zoom in on the side shot. CyberpowerPC Gamer Xtreme VR Gaming PC, Intel Core i5-9400F 2.9GHz, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 6GB, 8GB DDR4, 240GB SSD, 1TB HDD, WiFi Ready & Win 10 Home (GXiVR8060A8, Black) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07VGJDKZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_WTN3HVKJ0E1NYFX540WR
Looks like you’ve got a CyberPower house brand version of an Apevia fan kit like this one: Apevia ST4P2-RGB Spectra 120mm Silent Dual Ring Addressable RGB Color Changing LED Fan with Remote Control, 16x LEDs & 8X Anti-Vibration Rubber Pads w/ 2 Magnetic Addressable LED Strips (4+2-pk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0872H9Q41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_Q5FJ61ZVTCC7D962FBFQ
The RGB and fan power is all combined into a single cable and connector, for easier/quicker/neater hook-up. Unfortunately, motherboards have separate connectors for fan power and RGB. These fans are effectively married to the included hub, which is your problem, as the above linked Amazon listing shows the hub only has a 4 pin Molex power input.
To use the fans without the hub would require reverse-engineering the pin out, and sourcing and splicing in the standard ARGB and fan power connectors.
If that sounds like a bit much, the easier, if costlier solution would be to source fans that are specifically marketed as “ARGB”. Something like this: upHere 120mm 5V 3PIN Addressable RGB Case Fan Motherboard Sync Adjustable Colorful LED Fans with Controller 5x120mm PWM Fans PF1207-5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VTLV8YJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BQQ3ZQANWF9QKYEQKVVC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This kit also includes a hub, but that hub has connectors for the motherboard fan and ARGB headers.
Most “reputable brand” RGB fans (Cooler Master, Corsair, ThermalTake, Antec, etc.) will have the fan and RGB connections broken out separately, so they’ll work without a hub, or with a “standard” fan hub.
Put Core Temp on it and see if it's due to the CPU running hot. If so a better CPU cooler should help. The factory ones work but not very well when you start stressing the CPU. One of the drawbacks of the prebuilt units.
You can find HWInfo here. It should give you all the system info you need to help troubleshoot your issue.
Your PSU or power supply will be in the bottom of the case. There should be some screws on the back at the bottom that allow you to pull it back. If it says Apevia, I would recommend you start looking at different PSUs. Apevia PSUs are known for being...not great...if you can get a Corsair 750watt that would be a better choice.
As for your case, it's not the best when it comes to air flow. If your can get more case fans that would probably help your bring down the temperature in your case. There are plenty of videos on youtube on how to install case fans. Just Google your motherboard + case fan to see how to install them.
Hope this helps
This is the PC:
https://www.amazon.ca/CyberpowerPC-GXiVR8060A7-i5-9400F-GeForce-802-11AC/dp/B07PKXQBHN
And here is a photo I took of what the back panel looks like:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mc4ghlu108pegoh/20211230_133908.jpg?dl=0
The cage is easily accessible from the back, not like some other ones where it's tucked away behind the PSU and should fit two 3.5 HDDs in there but I managed to squeeze in 2.5 SSD in between my two harddrives to prevent the new one from being loose. It seems like the only spot in my case where I can fit a 3.5" drive since I don't see any spots to add brackets or anything like that.
Was in search of that (since they didnt include.) Figured that a standard CoolerMaster HDD racket will do. Found a 4 pack cheap one on Amazon. Installed with some filling and it works fine now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RBX9994/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
p.s. The case is made by CM, but not the same as CM's. Still, the parts are comparable in most. It kinda sucks Cyberpower didnt include it when shipped, and had to do some researches myself.
Order the Arctic Freezer 7 X CPU cooler. My cyberpower PC was super noisy with the stock fan. The moment I ordered this it was super silent. I only paid $29.99 + tx in Canada. And because of the lower temps it improved my CPU performance by 30%. Highly impressed.
It's definitely this one:
CyberpowerPC Gamer Xtreme VR GXiVR8060A7 Gaming PC https://www.amazon.ca/CyberpowerPC-GXiVR8060A7-i5-9400F-GeForce-802-11AC/dp/B07PKXQBHN
Its got the back panel that slides off when removed.
What sucks is that it isn’t specified in the product description and I honestly can’t tell without taking apart the lower section of the pc and after tinkering for hours I’m just going to call tech support. I’d be surprised if it’s lacking in power given its a prebuilt. Here is the listing if that helps but I’m not seeing what the wattage is specifically. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JQDYCDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JD198R6Q1SCMQ2MEXKBJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It’s very easy to disconnect the daisy chained fans. Just follow the cords and unplug. The stock fans cannot connect directly to the motherboard because of the type of connector they have. Not sure if there is an adapter cable that could be used for that. I just bought 3 new fans with the type of connector that plugs directly into the 3 different mobo connectors (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0788C4978)
Yeah I got one of those (link below) but it is a bit bulky so when out of home may be a bit difficult to carry it with. I tried the Nvidia whisper mode today and it did help with temps and fan noise but, as mentioned by echo, reduced the performance by a good chunk XD
Are those temperatures and fan usage expected or dangerous to the machine? (I plan to use with the additional cooler whenever possible anyway)
IETS GT300 Double Blower Laptop Cooling Pad for 14-17 Inch Gaming Laptop, Cooler Pad with Dust Filter, Flexible Rubber Ring, Colorful Lights,Adjustable Mount Stand,Third Gear Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WVK2ZZ9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XKE6SX0FGHE1EP124N79?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Most likely any 16 GB kit of DDR4 will work.
I assume this is what you have?
There's a great free software called CPUID CPU-Z that will output basic information about your system like what CPU you have, what motherboard you have, etc. Ultimately your motherboard will dictate what kind of parts you should buy.
You can use CPU-Z to identify your board (a visual inspection would work as well as the board is most likely branded with its part name) and then download the schematics for your board. Basically all the board manufacturers put their technical docs on the web for free. You can flip through that and see what kind of ports and capabilities your board has once you start thinking about expanding it.
The nice thing about Cyberpowerpc is they are a System Integrator so rather then making original parts they take off the shelf components and put them together to make your computer for you. That means the machine is as upgradeable as any DIY PC out there.
https://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/ this program is free and you can enable tray icons to always view the cpu temp. If you have a 2nd monitor, it makes it easy to view while gaming.
The number beginning with ET is a serial number which is unique for every PC - you won't be able to tell the specs from it unless you got in contact with Cyberpower.
You could of course ask them to run a program like CPU-Z to find out some of the main components.
Thanks, sadly cooler mlmaster 212 don't ship here. if i do pick something similar to it but I don't think it'll fit to the case (Cyberpower onyxia II) ?
Sure, it's an EVGA 750 GT Supernova 80plus gold modular PSU. Like I said, I used 2 separate cables to plug into the GPU, haven't had any issues yet, but going to wait the 10 more days I have before a return policy expires on the PSU before saying it fully fixed my issues.
EVGA Supernova 750 GT, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular, Auto Eco Mode with FDB Fan, 7 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 150mm Size, Power Supply 220-GT-0750-Y1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088SV1FH9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_Z43X0X94WS37776CFXQQ
If you're going to go that route, do it through Amazon, at least they have better customer support
I would go for a 120v adapter with at least 230W like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K25F64S/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_dl_P3M7JJNJSM2JA5C8QQ6C
I am not sure why the 500W adapted is overloaded...the Tracer AC adapter should be self regulating...but who knows.
R
EZDIY-FAB 120mm Computer Case Fan,Motherboard Aura Sync Fan,High Airflow,Speed Adjustable,Addressable RGB Fan with Fan Hub and Remote-5 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDZC96K/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_W14MJTQWQQ3YRSV2DQF2
These are some really good budget fans that perform well and have good rgb. Remember, any component you change on the pc. If you have trouble and have to send it back it has to be the way it shipped too you. So any fabs you add/replace you have to reinstall the old ones and/or remove the new ones. That goes for any component you change.
Apparently there are several model year versions and the advice I went with suggested going with the 2021
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This works great for my MSI 3080 in my Lian-Li.
i would recommend these GIM KB-23 RGB Case Fans, 3 Pack 120mm Quiet Computer Cooling PC Fans, Music Rhythm 5V ARGB Addressable Motherboard SYNC/RC Controller, Colorful Cooler Speed Adjustable with Fan Control Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088GQZ8F5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_39MV9ZNASSS601826FN5
They don’t have the cooler in the specs but based on the pictures and what you are saying it’s probably just a basic $30 cooler made just to keep the system from shutting down. If you don't want to spend too much you can get an air cooler that will be just as efficient as an AIO. any 240mm AIO That is under a $100 dollars is probably cheaply made and I would stay away from. Here is a cheap but quality air cooler that would do wonders for you https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hyper%2B212%2Bblack&qid=1627770956&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
Yeah Im planning to get a replacement for it as well, or just send it to get the parts changed. I got this one https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08FSXT6D4/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sorry to hijack the other commenter's thread but I have the same model as your PC (RTX 3060 version instead). The case has very good airflow so I am not sure why you are experiencing any overheating. I even ran benchmarks on my CPU without any crashes.
Anyways, I replaced the stock cooler with this fan:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08WPDD6GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now the cpu stays cool and silent at the same time. However, I highly suspect that overheating isn't the cause of the crash because I nearly the same setup. Feel free to try though to eliminate some probable causes. The CPU fan that it came with is worth replacing anyways.
What is your RGB system? Sounds like the controller died. While you are RMA'ing it, order one of these and plug your fans PWM connectors into it (no RGB):
I just plug it on a USB port and place it on top of the case above the CPU.
also this, pretty much the same build as the cyberpower. Normally i would say build a pc but now is not normal.
This is an AFFILIATE SPAMMER - DO NOT CLICK THE LINK
CLICK REPORT and REPORT THIS AS SPAM
DIRECT LINK TO DEAL
https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC-Xtreme-i9-10900K-GeForce-GXiVR8080A20/dp/B08TTBBLKB
check on amazon, just came across this for $949. the processor and the card are better, could use more ram. At that price it is a game of tradeoffs.
I cant find the exact case but mine looks basically like this case
https://www.amazon.com/CyberpowerPC-Xtreme-i5-9400F-GeForce-GXiVR8060A7/dp/B07PKXQBHN
Also, that cooler looks terrible. Even something affordable like this would be a big big upgrade:
If your looking for a new keyboard I would suggest something else. The quality is decent but does bend and personally I don't like the feel of it. It does the job but I plan on getting a new one when I have the money. If your looking for a keyboard I would suggest getting this if your on a strict budget or saving up a bit more for something like a Corsair or Razer keyboard.
Honestly, I’d recommend an Arctic 360 for that setup. It’s very good price and like maybe the 2nd best performing AIO there is. (Only like $20 more than a 240). They make an RGB one also, but it’s super popular and out of stock.
If you want to spend big bucks, you can get an EK 360 elite- like $220, but it’s the best available.
ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 - Multi Compatible All-in-One CPU AIO Water Cooler, Compatible with Intel & AMD, Efficient PWM Controlled Pump, Fan Speed: 200-1800 RPM (Controlled via PWM) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WNJCVNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HECCE3SDDZBESKDQX2V3
Youtube videos should be able to show you how to install case fans. I agree the cooler is not enough. If you want an AIO, the Arctic Liquid Freezer II is what I suggest. Pick the model you like best except the single fan 120mm model. https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Liquid-Freezer-RGB-Multi-Compatible/dp/B08WRJDQZC?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
I recommend Arctic as a brand for fans. They’re the best of the best, and they’re really reasonably priced. Here’s a link to RGB versions- but they have an Amazon store- P12 are great fans too, but they’re out of stock for the 3 packs of rgb
ARCTIC BioniX P120 A-RGB (Bundle 3 pc, incl. A-RGB Controller) - 120 mm Pressure-Optimised Fan with A-RGB, PWM, Cooler, Fluid Dynamic Bearing, 400-2300 RPM - Black (ACFAN00156A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FBH1VZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_21G92TM4JA6GZCEDYVZY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ensure your side fans are set to intake. You should be able to see the motor side of the fans and not just the blades. Or just take the side panel off and feel the airflow. Unfortunately the CPU heatsink is woefully undersized and ill-equipped to handle that processor. You need to buy a new one and install it. It's easy. Check YouTube for CPU heatsink replacement. There's this great one on Amazon for cheap that's actually a great bang for buck one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F21X2VP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This thing: CyberpowerPC Gamer Supreme Liquid Cool Gaming PC, AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 3.9GHz, GeForce RTX 3060 12GB, 16GB DDR4, 1TB NVMe SSD, WiFi Ready & Win 10 Home (SLC8260A5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08W1T9QJV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XDKPRQ26Y3SKGMZG6WMM
Your system has two problems: 1. The case’s front panel is all glass; the front fans are sucking in air through tiny, restrictive, hidden vents on the sides of the front panel. The air inside is pretty stagnant, so it has plenty of opportunity to get heat-soaked by all the hardware in the case. 2. The CPU cooler is only a 120mm radiator, and it’s set up to push the aforementioned heated air through the radiator and out of the case. This is a marginal setup, given the 3800X CPU has a 105W TDP.
How to solve this? In order of increasing cost/complexity: 1. Do nothing. 70c is still well below the 95c rating for this CPU. 2. Go for more aggressive fan curve in the motherboard BIOS. 3. Remove the front panel from the case. Yes I know this is ugly. 4. Reconfigure airflow in the case. Some trial/error may be needed to see what works best. A. Populate the unused fan vent in the top of the case with an exhaust fan. B. Reverse the fan on the CPU cooler so it sucks air in from outside, through the radiator. C. Reverse the front fans so they blow air out of the case. 5. Source/install a 240mm AIO water cooler. 6. Re-home the entire system in a new, airflow-oriented case, such as a Corsair 4000D Airflow, or Phanteks P360A or P400A.
Understandable if some of the later options are a bridge too far; I have the wherewithal to build my own PC, so I’d likely have skipped right to #6 myself.
if it helps heres the RAM. Its a different brand from the original one that was the T-Force Vulcanz stick
I ordered this one:
But my PC isn't here yet, so I couldn't tell you if it's good or not. I like this style better than the ones that attach to the PCIE cover below your card though (that's the style the other link showed)
I think I read you might have an Aorous MOBO, so this example from Bitwit is great. Just follow the steps. :)
And a GPU bracket is just a physical device that helps hold the GPU up. You can buy one from Amazon. Here is what I use:
MHQJRH Graphics Card GPU Brace Support, Video Card Sag Holder Bracket, Anodized Aerospace Aluminum (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S7ZBB51/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_876EHDCRF7Z4YCBQNCC6
RAM is not file storage. It's the memory space used by computers while running programs.
If you think of a computer as being a kitchen, the CPU is the chef. The RAM is the countertop workspace - you need enough room to work with, if there's not enough it'll really slow the chef down, but if it's a huge countertop it's not going to be of any benefit when a normal sized one is already enough space to for the chef to work.
The hard drive or solid state drive (the file storage) are the refrigerator and the cabinets packed full of food and ingredients.
While on your computer, open up Task Manager (you can do this quickly by pressing Ctrl+Shift+Esc at the same time). Click on the Performance tab, then click Memory. You will see the amount of RAM in there, which should now include the RAM that you added.
I can help you more if you answer a few questions...
1) It sounds like your intention was to buy more storage space, is that right?
2) How much RAM did your PC come with, and how much does it have now? 16GB is an ideal amount. If it already had 16 and you just added 16 more for a total of 32, you should probably return the RAM because it won't benefit you. If you had 8 GB and what you bought bumped you up to 16 then that will improve performance.
3) How much storage space do you need? That 465GB is your main drive (very likely to be a solid state drive). If you just need more room for games and downloads, a standard hard drive is the easiest and cheapest way to add a lot of storage to your PC. You can get a quality 2GB hard drive for $50. The 4TB version is on sale for $70 if you really want a lot of space. If storage is what you need, buy one of those.
Razer Chroma Addressable RGB Controller: Universal Compatibility - 6 Addressable RGB Headers - Powered by Razer Chroma RGB - Supported by Razer Synapse 3 - SSD Mounting Points https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KC2VZ2V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PSEEK29SZXZ6AEG59GQD
What kind of cooling do you have on it? Fan/AIO/etc...
If you have fans spinning and/or pumps pumping you should definitely check. Grab something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084X1NDPJ and take a look. Note: if you pull the heatsink off your CPU you have to clean it off and reapply thermal paste. So definitely have it on hand _before_ you start taking things apart.
Yea, exactly is the same one or (https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-B550AM-Chipset-Motherboard-80-MXBBL0-A1A01/dp/B08QJFSW3V).
It supports Series 5000 or not?
I was on the same boat as you. These are the fans i got and they’re exactly the same as the ones i got with my cyberpowerpc (just with a different logo). A cheap alternative if you decide not to replace the whole set of fans with new (better) ones. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FDJD8HD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XXZG8WGNHJFZ2S5SFWX4?psc=1
First thing, make sure your monitor is set to the same input as you're sending out from the video card. Monitors usually don't do display port by default.
Lack of a POST error (or beeps) is strange, unless they didn't hookup a mobo speaker (they're actually an add-on these days).
I didn't really get a high end model but it was good enough for me considering my previous system was a gaming laptop.
Intel Core i5-10400F @ 2.9 ghz CPU Nvidia GTX 1660 Super 6GB (Came with a MSI 1660 ti Ventus XS OC instead probably cause of a GPU shortage) GPU 8 GB Crucial Ballistix (Red) @ 2666 ghz. (I added another 16 GB to run in flex mode.) RAM Gigabyte B460M DS3H AC (First one that broke came with an MSI B460M PRO VDH WIFI) Motherboard EVGA 600 GD 80+ Gold (Surprised it was not an Apevia one) PSU CoolerMaster MasterBox NR640 (Couldn't find this case anywhere I think these are manufacturer cases and not for retail) Case
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08FBK2DK5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you JUST got your PC and it's not working I would contact them. Especially if you don't have any troubleshooting experience. The USB keyboards should work, but if it's not you'll need a PS/2 keyboard (or a USB to PS/2 adapter). Then there should be an option on the splashscreen to show the boot information and you'll have to hit/hold F8 to boot into safemode. If you're even able to get that far. You can always try moving or removing RAM sticks. There's a LOT of POST and boot sequence troubleshooting. That's one of the worst places to get stuck.
Ya I was thinking the fans are more circle than square in the photo like these
Might be easier to only have to get the corners
Yeah man that’s that they made it sound like. I bought and installed this and it completely fixed the issue: Corsair CX750F RGB, 750 Watt, 80 Plus Bronze, Fully Modular RGB Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FVJ7MGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SVBXQ65P3JH3NR90H1YR?psc=1
According the picture and the one I currently have is:
But it could vary on your actual model, and you can't buy a single stick of 8 of this specific type, you have to buy 16gb.
UPDATE:
Replaced the PSU and no longer having issues. Looks like the stock PSU can’t handle the 3060 when things get more intensive.
Replaced with: Corsair CX750F RGB, 750 Watt, 80 Plus Bronze, Fully Modular RGB Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FVJ7MGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0JG0Y0KHSTFX33MRN0MN
I've got pretty close to the same set up, P500a, same motherboard with 6 sk140mm fans. I was able to daisy chain all 6 RGB connectors to the ARGB header on the motherboard. There are multiple headers for power on the motherboard. I daisy chained the power connectors on the front fans to one headers. My two AIO fans to another header and the rear fan to a third header.
I did have an issue with the RGB strip on the side of the case and the small strip on the top front. I'm sure there are other ways to do this but I bought this Amazon.com: Cooler Master 1-to-5 Addressable RGB Splitter Cable Universal 3-pin ARGB Sync on LED Strips and Fans for Computer Cases, CPU Coolers and Radiators Fans: Computers & Accessories and 2 of these Phanteks 3 Pin Digital RGB LED 600mm Extension Adapter Cable - Newegg.com to connect everything to the same ARGB header mentioned before. I would first wait though to see what left over connectors Cyberpower gives you.
Thanks, any recommendations on a replacement power supply? I'm better with software than hardware, but can probably figure it out.
This is the system - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FSXT6D4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Honestly almost any HDD or SSD would be easy to install.
You would just need a cable like this one. And from your PSU, you would plug one of the SATA power connectors to the HDD or SSD.
I would check out /r/buildapcsales as HDDs and SSDs will occasionally go on sale and you can hopefully find one that works for you.
Thank you! I went with this RAM since it matches what's already in there. Sure, I'd like more RGB but this seemed like a cheaper alternative to replacing them all. I'm gonna order those fans!
These are the fans - super easy to install, come with the hub and a little adhesive to stick it in the back end nicely.
This is the ram - I use it with the ram it came with. These are tall enough you can't see the original, which I like because they original are not my aesthetic lol.
The aura sync colors for the ram and fans have a perfect match color-wise to the default ones it comes with, especially the white setting.
As for the HDD slot... I didn't have any issue finding a slot when I opened the back up! I've never built my own and I'm more of a noob, I just watched a video and did it lol
Sure thing. The only thing I've done so far is doubled the ram. Bought these from Amazon to match the 2 sticks that were already installed. Yea, I wanted to go RGB but this was a cheaper (and more matchy) option. :)
I bought this off Amazon and it worked for my headset: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B073ZDDTH2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=audio+splitter&qid=1609667419&sr=8-6
While not actually answering your question, I was wanting an extra m.2 slot in the past and saw this product. Not sure if it's as fast as a native m.2 slot but it might be worth looking into needing an extra m.2 slot your only reason for thinking of replacing the board.
I have that case in white and added three of these to the top of the case, the colors match extremely closely. They also can be controlled by aura sync
Gigabyte RTX 3080 Ryzen 7 3800x Gigabyte x570 gaming x 32gb 3600 Corsair vengeance Ram 240mm Be quiet pure loop AIO These are the fans I used
EZDIY-FAB 120mm Computer Case... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDZC96K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Gigabyte RTX 3080 Ryzen 7 3800x Gigabyte x570 gaming x 32gb 3600 Corsair vengeance Ram 240mm Be quiet pure loop AIO These are the fans I used
EZDIY-FAB 120mm Computer Case... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDZC96K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If your getting a standard power supply you probably getting something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWZZXHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9LYLFbT50G73V
I seriously doubt it's going to fry anything with the protections built in to components. It you have any issues it's probably going to die before you think it should so you will have to replace it, or the cheap fan if going to sound awful at load so you are going to replace it.
Super Flower Leadex III Gold 850W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THY11J1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
From what I read this company made the SuperNova G3 for EVGA. I had a SuperNova G3 650 in my other computer and didn't have any issues with it either.
I used to have the same problem... about two years ago I bought a little external sound card adapter and it fixed everything for me. I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKC2DNQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_UGsEFbWC3TPN3
Anything along those lines should fix your issues, or at least I know it helped me. This one is only $10, and you can get others in the same price range. For $10-20 it might be worth it to see if it fixes the problem.
Based on that connector mating style I think this:
E-Element Z-88 60% RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Brown Switch, LED Backlit, Water Resistant, Compact 81 Keys Anti-Ghosting for Mac PC, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGRKWG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YOlpFb6B55J6M