Budget permitting, G+ or GA 750 or 850 full modular for future proofing as others have mentioned. Here's a great deal on a p2 platinum.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B010HWDP48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_C6WYSHPJSJA9EX1KJS2M
depending on what fans you are using, if its 4 pin make sure the bios has those headers set to pwm mode, if it's 3 pin set it to dc mode.
as for controlling the fans, i use https://github.com/Rem0o/FanControl.Releases, i set my pump to 100% and have my fans change speed based on gpu temp since my 8700k never gets warm enough for the fans to ramp up
The card should automatically turn the fans on when it reaches a set temperature. If the fans aren't spinning, that means it's at a safe temperature.
If you do want to set custom fan curves, I suggest not using afterburner, but instead, the superior Fan Control app by Remi Mercier. It's much more lightweight, less resource intensive, doesn't look like it was designed for a 12-year-old and you can set a target fan speed for idle and a faster speed for when its in use.
I did the same, as I customized my Hybrid kit with a slim 92mm Noctua Chromax fan. The Gelid adapter was problematic, like you stated. I went ahead and grabbed an EK adapter, and it worked just fine. So, I'm pretty sure the problem is Gelid's layout.
https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-Cable-Adapter-50cm-2-Pack/dp/B078GH15Z4
Here's the link to the ones I got. There's other color options too!
I actually really dig your GPU brace. I have a Lian Li one holding up my EVGA 2080ti FTW with no sag if you ever want to swap it.
I just painted my 3080. If I were you, I'd consider using Plasti Dip. That way, if you put your card into step up or need to RMA it, you can clean it off and still have your warranty.
It's super easy, just do a few even coats. I'd remove the shroud for sure.
They have them on Amazon. Probably Newegg and other places as well.
I've seen both these types of brackets:https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Graphics-Anodized-Aerospace-Aluminum/dp/B08CDDSWKR/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=gpu+support+bracket&qid=1617816956&sr=8-3
and the lian li ones recommended https://lian-li.com/product/gb-001/
They are These! however i received two packs (you have to buy a pack for each 8 pin) that had hard plastic backs and one that had soft adhesive backs. The plastic looks way better (what is pictured here). I returned three trying to get another plastic and never got one again, i ended up pulling off the adhesive and sitting the plastic on the other version.
This is the only one that will arrive to my address this weekend....probably not a bad move? I know G5s have noise issues but it is what it is, I have a loud system as it is.
Are the slots marked "VGA" the ones I can use for the GPU?
Funny you should mention Kritpads, that's what I just swapped in. Fine by me if I must change every year, I used this thermal paste because it came highly recommended and it did nothing for me and was as hard to spread as the reviews mentioned. Feels almost like what Dell or Apple put in laptops. I should've just stuck to MX-4. I'll let this repad ride for a few months to get my money's worth before I go and swap paste again.
Definitely recommend direct replacement cables if you can swing it, makes for a much easier time managing things and is all around a proper experience.
We support that PSU here: https://store.cablemod.com/products/?filter_series=e-series
You would want to look at our Ampere bundles which have an additional 8-pin PCI-E so you have the three total that are required for the FTW3 card you have.
We also have these available on Amazon (if you navigate to the "Style" drop down menu, you can select different options).
Well:
>The thermal pads I used were 2 packs of this
>
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KRBB1GH
>
> since Amazon was out of stock of the 120 x 120 pad
>
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GPJVMLZ
>
> a single 120 should be enough if you don't make mistakes cutting any out. I just took the stock pads and removed one of the plastic sides and stuck it to the gelid pads and used a razor to cut out around.
Not sure how anyone could do that but take one that you have left, go to Ace hardware (or a local store like that) and match it up. Nuts are not proprietary. And maybe invest in this https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Mechanics-Telescopic-Pick-up-Organization/dp/B08T714BZC
for the power plugs, would that be something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Sleeved-Standard-Splitter-Adapter-Lklyonewy/dp/B09KPWK612/
i'm a little worried about trying this..
My 3080 TI Run a bit higher than my 3090 FE I have in another computer. The TI runs about 65°C gaming but I have it undervolted. The 3090 runs around 50°C but I replaced the thermal pads in it with expensive ones.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJQUT8/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o07\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
From what I remember its just the screws around the edges of the gpu itself that i removed. I didn't take off 4 main spring screws of the pump-gpu die enclosure.
And since my motherboard doesn't have enough pwm slots, I bought a NZXT fan controller hub that you control via CAM to control the gpu radiator fans based on which temp you want it to track (i set mine to gpu temp). As for the pump control I still plugged it in the motherboard. Then i downloaded FanControl from github and made a fan-temp curve that is based on gpu temp.
I carefully took off the shroud, but i didn't have to repaste the gpu. Because ultimately you can remove the shroud without having to re-assemble the AIO thats attached to the gpu die itself.
I forgot the exact username but its in the evga forums but just search "3080 XC3 Hybrid pump mod in the evga forums.
But ultimately you will need to buy this CRJ Male Mini 4-Pin GPU Fan to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S4L41TN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And then you'll end up plugging the 4-pin wire for the aio pump to that adapter, and then you will connect it to a 4-pin fan header on your mobo or a pwm 4-pin fan controller.
Ummm, is that $900 USD? Because the EVGA XC3 3070Ti is priced at $700 at Micro Center and the FTE3 variant is $760 at MC and Amazon.
Use the Globaltrends support from Amazon in a 4000D. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/GLOTRENDS-Graphics-Computer-Universal-Aerospace/dp/B083JFCHM5/ref=sr\_1\_41?crid=2NX8U98XLBC1S&keywords=graphics+card+support&qid=1650033387&s=pc&sprefix=support%2Ccomputers%2C108&sr=1-41
There's not much to the process. I have some shrink wrap tubes that have solder. A handy dandy heatgun. I took some PWM extensions wires out (I had to break apart the male end connector to get the pins out), snipped off the other end and stripped the other end about 1/4". Then I found a spare aRGB header, did the same thing by snipping off one end and stripping the ends, then I used the heatshrink+solder tubing I had with the heatgun to join them together. Then I put some shrink wrap over the 3 exposed pins at the ends of the wires to prevent shorting, and inserted them individually into the header on the EVGA cooler.
I would love if someone could find the female version of that header and the proper pin ends to join to the wires. Would make the process a LOT easier.
This is the memory - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082DGZJ9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
XMP is enabled.
Environment is pretty clean, new Windows, didn't have any Nvidia drivers installed prior to installing the latest a couple of days ago when I got the card.
No other applications are running during benchmarking or gaming.
You're very welcome.
I forgot to mention, Kritical doesn't supply backplate pads because EVGA doesn't use them out-of-the-box, so I used 2 these Gelid Extreme 3mm
for the backplate. I don't know what my results would be without them, so I can't really say if they're necessary. I just did them because EVGA doesn't include them and other manufactures do.
Shit, I didn't notice he was out of stock on yours when I got the link. But mine were out of stock when I first looked and the next time I looked they were in stock. It was pretty fast. I'm pretty sure it's small enough business that if you email him he could probably put a kit together for your quickly.
I highly recommend putting two slim fans under the 3080, I have the exact same card and case and my GPU would get very hot and loud after a longer sessions. I use these fans and they have dropped my temps significantly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0813X9G8T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Swap the card with someone that has an air cooled card or build a water loop. Please don’t swap out the HC cooler for a hybrid cooler. This is an easy intro into water loops: www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q2HPXTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_5MKVP6VP1CK736F03E98?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I am not super familiar with looking at pin layouts or spec sheets, but would these be about the same thing?
​
Your link isnt shipping until march, while I can get these by tomorrow
That’s just a cabling issue, get 3 sets of these and you’ll be fine: Cablecc ATX 8Pin Female to 8pin... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P3JDQNC
https://www.reddit.com/r/lianli/comments/rzmiz6/the_matrix_movie_bad_theme_build_good/
A vertical GPU anti sag screw or something is going to work much better than any other option. Especially for big heavy GPUs and with your PSU shroud right there something like this would be perfect Graphics Card GPU Brace Support, Video Card Sag Holder Bracket, GPU Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FPJL1KY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CEFNG2HCNQAJ15C805PQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get the Lian Li anti-sag. It mounts to your motherboard and is invisible. I can try taking a picture, but you have to really know what your looking for to notice it at all. A bit more fiddly to install than the ones that bolt to the PCIe slot cage, but a lot nicer.
Lian Li Graphic Card Anti-SAG... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YKGKZWP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hi, i have a ThermalTake View 71 PC case. If you look up the specs, there are GAPS between all the Glass side panels. It isn't sealed like other PC cases.. Even though they are thick, the glass panels minimize the sound and I am still able to get decent Temps. For CPU and GPU, as shown here.
I get the same temps for all my games.
So, as long you have a PC case that has a gap between the side panels, then you're okay.
Yes, it is really smooth right now for my gameplay.
You will see in this pic, https://imgbb.com/8BdCFVN
in the same exact position i would hover around 105ish FPS. Now its like 116 to 120.
Now I've formatted and cleaned everything on the computer, I'm just using the latest nvidia driver (I know that no computer would do this) but I was looking for my previous configuration to not have any compatibility error.
​
Nothing, I'm still the same. In the campaign I put myself in the first map of Vietnam when I go down with my African-American friend from the helicopter to shoot. I go upstairs and take the sniper and when I aim, I still miss.
​
If I shoot the native resolution (3440x1440) at 2k or fullHD the problem dissipates and Cold War works correctly, but it is not a definitive solution, it looks horrible.
​
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Did you re-use the pads on the backplate? Were they in good shape and make good contact? Might start by replacing those and maybe add some heatsinks like someone else suggested. I've got some of these on my hybrid, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JLQL63D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XTYW9DQW7P5R2V7CG68K
Depending on where you live you may have different options but here are some from Amazon: heatsink
Is this the one you are using? I can't confirm if this one pack will be good for a 3080 to since it has 3 8 pin connectors. Asiahorse Customization Mod Sleeve Extension Power Supply Cable Kit 18AWG ATX/EPS/8-pin PCI-E/6-pin PCI-E (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C735N9C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1R13EERPVHV5W1HYGKPV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If swapping the cool-looking FTW3 Ultra stock cooler fans and using a waterblock really decreases temps by 15c and also reduced the noise considerably I'd most likely do it. I've already had experience with a custom EK water loop, with all the pains of having to cut the tubing, replace the water, etc.
I am American so I guess I'm lucky that disassembling it doesn't void the warranty. I found out recently that there are more options besides the EVGA Hybrid thing: Alphacool has a sick-looking AIO water cooler and it has 3x 120mm fans, so maybe even better performance with the larger radiator.
I do plan on having the CPU be water-cooled by an all-in-one solution; not doing an air-cooler on the CPU. This case here really caught my eye: the Corsair 7000X https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-iCUE-7000X-Full-Tower-Black/dp/B09444T1R6
That thing looks like it would avoid the airflow issues you mentioned. You have 3 fans pushing into the case from the front and 1 out the back. But then you have room for 3x 120mm fan radiators, one on top, one in front and even room for 3 more 120mm fans on the side, if you look at the pics its impressive.
I am still just starting to piece together my rig. Only things I've 100% settled on are the GPU, an Intel Core i7 12700, and mostly likely that case.
Yeah several. My complaints and part list are below.
Part List:
CoolerMaster Vertical Mount Version 2
LINKUP - Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable | Universal 90 Degree Socket{
Here you go.
K5 PRO viscous thermal paste for thermal pad replacement 20g (Apple iMac, Sony PS4 & PS3, XBOX, Acer Aspire etc) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00UTX7K2E/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MCSN10ZZ0ZR76TPKBK0V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You're welcome
What I meant is this one
JoyReken Type E Header, USB 3.0 (3.1 Gen 2) Internal (19-Pin) Header to USB 3.1/3.2 Type-C (21-Pin) A-Key Front Panel Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KHY9JHT/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_E2DNQCCZM6JMTFVHH8H7
Nice! The cable is super long so be aware of that. May not bug you, but it bugged me. I went with this
LINKUP - Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable [RTX3090 RX6900XT x570 B550 Z590 Tested] Shielded Extreme High-Speed Vertical Mount Gaming PCI Express Gen4┃Universal 90 Degree Socket {5cm} 3.0 Gen3 Compatible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093HLXQJD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6XKA3NMPVZXMNTFFWPZN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Nice! The cable is super long so be aware of that. May not bug you, but it bugged me. I went with this
LINKUP - Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable [RTX3090 RX6900XT x570 B550 Z590 Tested] Shielded Extreme High-Speed Vertical Mount Gaming PCI Express Gen4┃Universal 90 Degree Socket {5cm} 3.0 Gen3 Compatible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093HLXQJD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6XKA3NMPVZXMNTFFWPZN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
upHere Graphics Card GPU Brace Support Video Card Sag Holder/Holster Bracket, Anodized Aerospace Aluminum Silver (G195SR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CDCTKB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TXA5VJZKBGG77AE7WNG6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It’s a brace I got on Amazon and has a customizable RGB strip. I used the MSI Dragon software. Link: EZDIY-FAB Graphics Card GPU Brace 5V 3Pin ARGB,Support Video Card Sag Holder Holster Bracket, Anodized Aluminum (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T98DSG3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TQ58Z0YH69H786F1XJC1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
​
should be delivered to EVGA today so I'll follow up if they have any issues with the pads I replaced it with.
Sounds like pump noise. You can't control the pump speed if you installed it per instructions. It will always be at 100%, any RPMs you see is from the fans on the radiator. The only way around this is to use an adapter such as this one and plug the pump into a motherboard fan header so you can control its speed (you basically route the cable out of the card into the mobo, see the extra cable coming out in this pic.
However that noise doesn't sound normal even for regular 100% operation. You may have air bubbles stuck in the pump somewhere. You can try to work them out by gently rocking/tipping your case in all directions while the pump is running, this might free any bubbles. If you have any mechanical hard drives I would unplug those to be safe.
Sometimes people using the cable mod are able to eliminate any weird noises by just reducing the pump speed slightly (which doesn't really affect performance). But if you can't fix you probably have to RMA and get a new pump.
I run my pump at 65% when idle and kick it up to 100% any time the GPU temp gets above 40C. At 100% speed my pump is audible in a quiet room but not objectionable, so probably nothing like what you're hearing.
I didn't like the uphere branding so I went with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077LGLN4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It does the job of holding the card level.
I've bought this one for a 3080 ti FTW3. Works well and I found it more subtle.
I use phanteks ones here you go Phanteks 8 to 8 (6+2) Pin VGA Premium Sleeved Extension Cable 19.68" Length, White(PH-CB8V_WT) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B018L5XVDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_5WAV0KWMZDWWRZV4XECG
Thanks for your detailed answer. I too have considered the "up here" bracket (or something similar) but ended up ordering this.
When you pull the 3080Ti out of the box you will likely want to brace it somehow. The thing is a brick and I didn't feel good about it hanging off the PCIe slot exclusively.
At first I tried one of this style and didn't find it effective. https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Graphics-Anodized-Aerospace-Aluminum/dp/B076GYL25H
It was too wobbly and the profile of the shroud on the 3080Ti FTW3 wasn't conducive to finding a good place to brace it so I returned it.
Then I got one of these and found it worked well. https://www.amazon.com/JEYI-iBrace-8-Graphics-Support-Universal/dp/B094JY83BQ
I feel a lot better having the GPU supported now.
I have this gpu support bracket, works great and since it's black it blends in and isn't very noticeable.
upHere Graphics Card GPU Brace Support Video Card Sag Holder/Holster Bracket, Anodized Aerospace Aluminum, Single or Dual Slot Cards Black (G205) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HSVSLR/ref=cm_sw_r_apannn_glt_fabc_4HGJQCAD7N78S1AHMQ8M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Try “Up here” gpu support. I use it on my FTW3 3090 and works great. Got it on Amazon for cheap. [upHere Graphics Card GPU Brace Support Video Card Sag Holder/Holster Bracket, Anodized Aerospace Aluminum, Single or Dual Slot Cards (Black),GL05
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYL25H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wj3YnWrTxQwVz](upHere Graphics Card GPU Brace Support Video Card Sag Holder/Holster Bracket, Anodized Aerospace Aluminum, Single or Dual Slot Cards (Black),GL05 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYL25H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wj3YnWrTxQwVz)
Hey! I can't give exact specifics as I've only done it for a 1070 sc and 1080ti, but I saw about 15°c drop in temps using:
I got a pack of 1.5mm and a pack of 2mm. I used the 2mm to replace everything on the front of the pcb between the mounting plate and 1.5 where needed between the cooler and plate. Can't remember if I did anything on the backside of the card. I believe I left stock pads on the backplate (if there were any). As a disclaimer, I also applied grizzly kryonaut on the gpu die and this may have also helped with temps.
I'm a tinkerer on a budget, and will say I've heard amazing things about gelid's extreme thermal pads. The gelid ultimate I've heard is a bit too stiff and make getting good contact difficult, but the extreme are supposed to have a nice cushion with great cooling ability.
If you're redoing the pads, may as well get some good paste to go with it.
Best of luck!!
If you have any other questions I'll help as best as I can
So I believe I definitely have something wrong with the HDMI port on the 3080. Just tried a 3rd cable, which is certified 48gb HDMI 2.1 cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092MWQGSF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
same thing no video signal, but the PC does detect the TV.
I have ticket open with EVGA and they asked me to connect my old graphics card back into my system (1080ti FE), and that works fine with my original optical cable and the new HDMI 2.1 cable.
Now just waiting on the next steps with EVGA, their response time does seem to take 2 business days, so i probably wont hear back till Monday.
You are not using a very good cable. The signaling is different when using HDMI 2.1 at high bandwidths.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081SF1DKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_5AWS0D01MJZAVE4RST7B
This will fix your issue.
Just wanted to add, if you are buying a new PSU anyways, I would still go for an 850W so you can future proof yourself in case you ever change your mind and want to OC. This one here is a steal being on sale for $160 - https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Platinum-Warranty-220-P2-0850-X1/dp/B010HWDOH6/
It's the same I use, and it's platinum rated. It's made by Super Flower (Branded EVGA). One of the best manufacturers we have ever seen.
I don’t think it looks to bad with this combo (I have this on my ftw3)
I have this one, cheaper and you can put it the other way around just to cover the brand. it's looks good on my EVGA 3070Ti.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GYL25H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this one for my 3070. It's pretty low profile. Easy to install and does the job. And it's only $7.99
>cooler master ARGB GPU bracket
Agree if you're referring to this. Beautiful and sturdy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T95C68T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought this and when it didnt fit, i tried to shave the plastic down to try to squeeze it in. It was never going to happen.
WIMAXIT Portable Touch Monitor, 14 Inch 98% sRGB FHD IPS Computer External Gaming USB-C Display Screen with Dual Type-C Mini HDMI for Laptop PC Xbox PS5,(Touch not for Mac OS/Surface Pro) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JLWNX22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3SBZWTPXEHX2JX032AR5 I have this. But it doesn’t fit a XL or Dynamic case.
I wouldn't sand it. Get some white Plasti-dip, which is essentially spray on plastic coating, and use that on it. It should cover it all up. I used that on my hybrid shroud with no issue, and it should cover up your mistakes.
I ordered these.
Corsair CP-8920183 Premium Individually Sleeved PCIe Cables with Dual Connectors, Red/Black, for Corsair PSUs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYYZ7KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X0TEJ362MBMKMKXHNXWT
Because the Corsair guy said it would void my warranty if I didn’t get their brand specific to the psu. Not that it really matters because the GPU is the valuable part. Hopefully these do the trick.
Yea I guess the ones I ordered were ok. Corsair CP-8920183 Premium Individually Sleeved PCIe Cables with Dual Connectors, Red/Black, for Corsair PSUs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYYZ7KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X0TEJ362MBMKMKXHNXWT
We will see though
Would that be something like this because I'm having trouble finding any in stock. I don't want to risk buying the wrong cables and blowing things up, lol.
Hybrids are quieter under load, but louder when idle (due to pump noise). That’s not to say they’re loud when idle, just not silent like a card with no fans spinning would be. I would say the noise of the pump is comparable to the noise of a 7200rpm hard drive (just the spinning motor noise).
Temperatures are obviously better. My 3090 idles at about 4-5 degrees above ambient. Under load tops out at 60 C but that’s with the radiator fans running quiet, it could be lower if I wanted. In typical games it’s usually mid 40s to mid 50s. I replaced the fans in mine with Noctuas for even less noise, the default fans are okay but basic.
You will get better, more consistent performance because the card won’t have to downclock as much to keep temps in check. My undervolt overclock is much more stable on the hybrid.
The kit is easy to install. It’s the same as an actual hybrid card in the end. So if you can only get a regular card you could always buy the kit.
One mod some people do is to get a mini GPU to 4 pin cable (like this one so they can connect the pump to a motherboard fan header, which will let you control the pump speed. This would require disassembly so it’s easier to do when you’re installing a kit anyway.
The main problem people have with the hybrids is getting bad pump noise. Though often I think this is due to suboptimal radiator placement which can result in air bubbles being stuck in the pump, causing a grinding or chirping noise. And sometimes people are very stubborn about this so they’ll do a bunch of RMAs instead of changing the position. And sometimes it’s just a bad pump.
Yeah, if you want to control the pump speed you need to use this adapter and plug it into a motherboard fan header, then control the speed with that. Lot of people do this to reduce pump noise on the hybrids. You could have pump at a low speed (like 60%) when idle, and only put it to full speed during gaming.
You can really do anything you want. I used these - https://www.amazon.com/Enokay-Cooling-Heatsink-Raspberry-Heatsinks/dp/B014KKY3KI/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=raspberry+pi+copper+heatsink&qid=1620921543&sr=8-2
but if your case can fit something bigger, I would expect that to help more.
I would get the cable that can control the pump speed on a DC fan control header. Basically you hook up the pump cable reversed on the pump header and plug the other end into your fan controller or motherboard then make sure you set the speed above 60% minimum.
I have already done an RMA for my first kit and had pump sound on the second one as well but the cable fixes the issue. I would install it just to have the option to change pump speed the mod didn’t really mess with temps too much maybe a degree or two higher but still way cooler than the stock heatsync.
FYI Cable can be found here
CRJ Male Mini 4-Pin GPU Fan to Female 4-Pin PWM All Black Sleeved Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S4L41TN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ACM5BA340C8SQCYG4Z2F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah I'm watching the video right now. The hybrid kit from evga is useless cuz it doesn't do anything for the vram on the back. My mem junc temps get as high as 100 but usually hover around 96, when 95 is supposed to be the max safe for the memory. I ordered a bunch of tiny heatsinks from amazon along with a 92mm fan that I'm gonna sit on top of it. Got the idea from this blog, will be here on Wednesday. But I'm definitely gonna get this ek block when it comes out, so thanks again for brining it to my attention!
It goes along with the quantum vector so it's basically a cooling sandwich according to the video they have demoing it on the EK site. It looks like a fantastic setup. I have the 3090 ftw3 ultra coming this week and have heard about junction memory temps being the biggest concern for the card. I was initially going to upgrade to the hybrid kit but have since just decided to set a case fan directly on the backplate for now and will mess around with push/pull configurations. I did just find this thing on amazon so if I don't get the result id like out of the case fan ill opt for this instead.
Yes.
I have a hybrid ftw3 ultra 3090, same as you.
I used this thermal pad - 2mm. I also used a small set of heat sinks and directed a case fan to blow across them.
I monitor in GPU-Z and noticed a 8-10 degree improvement on all thermals related to those backplate vrm. At idle right now my mem temp is 55 degrees, and at load it hovers around 70-72 degrees. Previously, idle was around 65 degrees, load around 85 degrees.
Seems pretty good and I noting no issues so far using that 2mm pad.
Also, this hybrid kit does work.. What temps are you seeing? In a front mount, push/pull setup I idle around 28 degrees with fans at a silent setting. At load, I hover 59-62 degrees with fans at 75% speed. If I prioritize silence at load, my temps push up only to 65-68 degrees at 40% fan speed.
Got mine on Amazon, but a different brand than OP. Been using them since October, they work great.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5R258Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ATX 8Pin Female to 8pin Male 180 Degree Angled Adapter for Desktops Graphics Card Upgrade Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F7G7C4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7J7EEBQESN91CZPWT01D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m starting to like the hidden/minimal cable look. Gonna work on cleaning up and hiding as much as I can.
Yea strap those heatsinks on top of the backplate with 3m double sided thermal tape https://www.amazon.com/LLPT-Conductive-Adhesive-Electronic-Components/dp/B07PBP3BG5 or it may come with it pre applied, and hit it with a fan blowing at the top of card across the heatsinks, that can drop temps from 110 to 90. You can get black anodized metal ones if they look better, I’m sure copper will conduct better tho
Leave the backplate on and add heatsinks, without the fan it won’t do much...the backplate helps to dissipate a lot of heat, from vrms too, just use backplate as a heat conductor to get heat into heat sinks then hit it with the fan....and attach a ton of them (esp) where ram is, and vrm’s. (There are some on the back) I’d be nervous if I removed the backplate (ONLY thing catching all the heat currently). Also this: https://www.amazon.com/LLPT-Conductive-Adhesive-Electronic-Components/dp/B07PBP3BG5
Something like this?
Cable Matters 2-Pack 6 Pin PCIe Extension Cable (PCIe to PCIe Power Extension) - 10 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DV1Z4EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_41K7V1YAQQG35N1BPVMF
This has been an issue for almost all 30 series because the coolers had to get so massive. I used one of these to support it. The other option is a vertical mount. If it is seriously damaged an RMA may work for you.
I would not trust a 10 year old PSU with a $900 GPU haha. It should have all it needs though. This is newer and should do it if you want to try a new one.
Now that you mention it maybe that is the problem.
I believe that’s a 3.0 riser and maybe the motherboard is defaulting to 4.0. I’m gonna try yours and mrgrosso’s suggestion here in a bit.
Yeah wanted to point out for anyone else too that my 50ft Ruipro fiber optic cable came and now I'm running 4k 120hz RGB (4:4:4) from my 3090 to my C9 OLED no problem.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081SHJJ3C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
People have reported throttling at 75c to 77c on a 2700x and a partial cause as the VRM overburdened/overheating, depending on the Motherboard.
Specifically the MSI B-450-m and Asus B-450-F motherboards.
Better cooling for the CPU is ideal for sure, I am unsure what Motherboard you have but if it's a B-450 then it's 3 phase power and the VRM (left side of the CPU socket) might need better airflow across it, you case will dictate what you can do to remove heat, some Zip Ties and a 120mm fan blowing directly on or across the VRM will help if your VRM is getting over burdened. Some people have bought the small "taped/glue on" Heat sinks on the VRMs and ran a 120mm fan to blow across them and it helped but I don't know if that something you can do.
Here is an example of those: https://www.amazon.com/Easycargo-Heatsink-conductive-Regulators-8-8mmx8-8mmx5mm/dp/B079FQ22LK
Ordered it from Amazon, and the Receipt says it was a EVGA SuperNOVA 850 g2, 80+ Gold.
Bought it from that link. I won't be able to get you the code because its being wrapped up for Christmas lol.
u/Soylent_Hero
Here is the cable I bought. I don't see the silver badge anywhere on or in the box. HDMI 2.1 I bought
They do have one for the non-XL I bought it from Microcenter but have to return as it was meant for your case and doesn’t fit rightLian Li O11D-1X
You can use any power cable. They are all the same basically. Here's an Amazon basics one that was just the second one to pop up https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Power-Cord-10-Foot-Black/dp/B072LNKHBB?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_597260_1&pf_rd_p=8a1ff979-adf2-5c16-9fd1-9901dcdd1494&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-6&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=597260&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&...
Other than a powerlink, what about a 180 degree adapter like [this]?(https://www.amazon.co.uk/Female-Degree-Adapter-Desktops-Graphics-8PIN-2/dp/B07P5R258Q/ref=asc_df_B07P5R258Q/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=372163298573&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17668273625901051527&hvpone=&hvptwo=...)
If you want to enter step up on the cheap then you can pick up something like https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-DDR3-64bit-Single-02G-P3-2717-KR/dp/B01AZ8EQBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=evga+710+gt&qid=1601921847&sr=8-1
sadly the evga 3080 ftw is the only one available for the step up program.
will something like this splitter work with my power supply and that gpu?
EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 XC Black Edition Gaming, 8GB GDDR6, Dual HDB Fans, RGB LED, Metal Backplate, 08G-P4-2082-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X2VDKR5/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_nde5DbMJXFFJH
You can buy new for $565 from Amazon now with a $20 mail in rebate on top of that. Non super
For that 2080 super price it is very good. If they haven't registered the product with the company then you can register and have the manufacturer warranty but not the store warranty.
I use this: K5 Pro
Wearing gloves, I roll up a little ball the half a pea size and place it on each ram. I let the cooler squish into place, It's okay to make a mess with this stuff as opposed to TIM applied to the GPU / CPU
I got one for my 1080ti after using a third party one and it is definitely better. Like the other commenter said the screws were fragile.
If it has the same style of screws, get this screw driver set it was a life saver.