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Cults.
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She's 3D printed - basically I took this 3D model: https://gumroad.com/l/FEDk stretched her about 10% in height, extracted the armour from a Dawn of War Farseer 3D model and overlaid it over the ghost lady. Eldrad's sheathed sword on her back finishes it off. Printer was my work's Projet 2500 multijet printer - About $50,000 worth of kit
Just my most recent projects to add to the rest of my army: https://imgur.com/a/hrNTt
Quite happy with the Autarch, her las-lance is 3D printed. The Farseer is a kind of 3D printed kit-bash - I basically took this model: https://gumroad.com/l/FEDk and mushed in the farseer armour from a Dawn of War character model, added Eldrad's sheathed sword toher back and voila!
Avatar i've posted before but i've spruced up his paint job a bit.
Adding ImperitumArt: currently doing not-drukhari.
https://www.patreon.com/ImperitumArt
https://cults3d.com/en/users/ImperitumArtGallery/creations
The "cool looking farseer" is Artel W's OOP warseer, STLs for it and the OOP boneshees can be found in the r/printedwarhammer discord.
Thank you for the kind words!
As for airbrushing - please let me know what airbrush you're using (particularly nozzle size) and the air pressure, and I might give you some advice.
Generally, being precise with an airbrush is easier than it seems. You need a good airbrush - but that a separate topic, because "good" in relation to an airbrush doesn't always mean what people think it means. In my experience, Iwata Eclipse is the best airbrush in the business. Let me know if you are interested in hearing more details on this.
Airbrushes aside, there are two other crucial things:
- Subassemblies
- Masking.
1) I always paint in subassemblies - that is, I rarely paint a fully assembled model. With this Wraithblade, arms were separate (they're magnetized anyway), but also head, torso, legs and base were all painted separately. This makes airbrushing much easier.
2) I use masking a lot, in all forms. First of all, I use liquid mask to cover one of two adjacent surfaces if I want to highlight one of them while not overspraying onto the other one. But sometimes, depending on the shape of the model, you can temporarily cover a part you want to protect from oversray with a piece of paper, or with a piece of thin plastic bag, or even with your own thumb.
As for the technique of painting, I'd recommend to watch this youtube video. Angel Giraldez is an amazing painter, and most semi-advanced techniques I use come from him - although I use them in a heavily simplified form! Note that he's using a crazy expensive professional airbrush with insanely fine nozzle of 0.15 mm - but that's not really needed. Nozzle of my Iwata Eclipse is 0.35 mm, and I can do all the same things with it.
Hope this helps! Let me know if you want to know more.
Deryun magnet 300pcs mini Magnets Small Magnet Tiny Magnets Miniature Magnets Little Magnet Small Round Magnets, Tiny Magnets for Crafts,magnit,mini Magnets for Crafts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084NZVDQ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CSSZ5STKFHQ8QNW6GEZQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These worked out really well for the wrists. I trimmed off the plastic wrist to add these but the magnets make it look like a proper wrist.
You can actually buy 32mm flight bases from Amazon. Definitely stick with the 32mm as that's whats on the current shining spears and windriders.
Note that you cannot play these in any GW tournaments as they are not GW models, and you will need to be careful at other tournaments too, as many allow conversions, but not full replacements from other companies.
Not the person you are responding to, but here are some wet palette options.
Or if you want cheap, an old Tupperware, some folded up and wetted paper towels and a layer of parchment paper on top.
The point of them is to keep your paint from drying out and to keep it smooth and pliable.
And, as an aside, how long have you been painting? It takes some time to get all that practice in. I'm past 10 years as my primary hobby and am probably mid-quality according to the internet but probably top 5 in my local area. The internet gives us all access to all the people that will blow us out of the water. I still wonder how some people on CMON do it.
Something like that would be close to the right size, still a tiny bit small.
the first one was on amazon. It just popped up on a simple google search...let's see....
https://www.amazon.ca/Gothic-Eldritch-Collected-Sketches-Goodwin/dp/1841541486
Thanks!
The bone was done with an airbrush, shaded, and then touched up with a brush.
The rocks are from the Army Painter.
As for faces… neatness comes over time with practice. The biggest tip I have is to go slow; layer up slowly with very thin coats, and try not to brush over areas you’ve already painted until it’s thoroughly dry. That last part is easy to do when you’re working on such a small area, but it will cause the paint to go chalky and lumpy.
Not true. VPNs that run servers within the country must follow strict guidelines (they cannot be used to access black listed sites). However external ones (ie NordVPN) can be used to allow Russians access to the outside world but cant be used for outsiders to gain access to restricted russian sites (due to having no servers within the country)
Thanks! Yes, she's majority contrast, and was painted in subassemblies to make it easy. I first airbrushed her with white primer (my can of Grey Seer has been giving me trouble lately), then used Blood Angels Red contrast over the armor, making sure to avoid the cloth. Iyanden Yellow contrast for the helmet and loincloth (making sure to use the brush to wick away excess from the helmet especially).
Cleaned things up on the armor with Mephiston Red, then gradually mixed increasing amounts of Fire Dragon Orange into the red to build up the highlights. Final highlights were a bright yellow that I applied, waited for several seconds, then gently wiped away with my thumb to leave a less sharp, more smudged highlight. Any black works for the crest and faceplate, and the eyes were done with bright silver and Spirit Stone Blue technical paint.
Finished product was then sprayed with Vallejo Premium Airbrush Color Matt Varnish (only matte varnish I've found to actually improve the finished product, tying the colors together).
https://www.amazon.com.au/Black-High-Strength-Adhesive-Putty/dp/B0794ZHDY7
My entire army is held by it - all loadouts on all units, including swapping between wraithguard/wraithblades, CH/CHE/Hemlock and well as all weapons and quipment. It's fun to adjust poses mid game as well ;-)
6 Set Sacred Geometric Honeycomb Stencils, 7Inch Sashiko Stencil Art Painting Templates for Scrapbooking Drawing Tracing DIY Furniture Wall Floor Décor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q732S4N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_HX02VJR3H5JPEEGG63YK
It has to be the original one, I've tried others like the lavender and stuff when original was out of stock and can confirm they don't work. It works amazing though, plastic, resin or pewter. People say it's a bit smelly but honestly I don't mind it and spray primer masks it anyway when done.
seem to be https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/elderly-woman-behind-the-counter-in-a-small-town-yaemhay if I had to guess
Sure! I purchased the body from here (didn't use the hair or axe thing), and the the sword is from the old Artel W. Warseer model (which was released for free a while back as an .stl file).
I recently magnetized every model without a clear base and started using one of these to transport it:
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B00FF9A4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_HT8PA0BRCGYD2WZDP439
The bottom level for avatar of khaine, wraithlords and war walkers, the upper two for infantry (including wraithblades/guards). Really tough and large.
These are some D6/D20 dice holders I made to go with my lovely CW force. The link above will take you to cults3D where you can download the STL files and print these bad boys on your 3D printer. (They're free! But there is a tip jar available if you really really love 'em!)
Let me know what you think, and if you print and use them, I'd love to see them in action!
I think I've done the same before, lol.
I think if you use something like https://tinyjpg.com/ or just lower the image size in ms paint or photoshop it will help.
It's nice being able to see all the detail and brushstrokes though!
You can play with colour wheel, to decide your primary and secondary by the looks.
https://color.adobe.com/ru/create
And in one article there was a point, that each colour has a meaning (red is passion and war, purple is mystic and magic etc.), so you may think about your style from that perspective of what your dudes want to represent and what you seek.
You can serf the internet for photo or arts, or remember your favourite piece from memory. You may take palette from there; nature photos often has harmonic colour palette. There was a guy, that took inspiration from bugs and insects.
That's pretty much it! Makehuman software can create quite detailed base bodies with actual unique faces, but I saw it more as a good starting point tool to began making desired modifications to the naked body and face by hand. Sculpting an actual basemesh (naked body) from nothing by yourself is an incredible art in itself and would require lots of practice and knowledge of anatomy, so in the end I wanted to skip that part for the time being and use a tool like Makehuman. All the other pieces, like armor plates, outside the naked body are created in Blender by hand by myself. For the shoulder spikes and the sheathed dagger I used a reference though.
Clean up is definitely more than you do with a brush, and yeah it’s not the most fun part of the process, but it’s not that bad. Just make sure you get a squirty bottle like this, and have a tub or little bucket or something to empty into. And an airbrush stand that lets you spray into it like this.
The best thing to use for panel lining is an enamel wash. It runs into the lines on its own, is super easy to apply, and can be cleaned up with mineral spirits without affecting the rest of the paint.
this works great, as does the MIG washes. Dark brown or black would look great. https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-87131-Panel-Accent-Plastic/dp/B01HDJ7BR0/ref=sr_1_9?crid=18Z4H43OBHB5V&dchild=1&keywords=enamel+wash+model&qid=1611871665&sprefix=enamel+wash%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-9
Like in shop or something? I've checked on Black Library and on amazon and neither have it.
https://www.blacklibrary.com/warhammer-40000/novels/ghost-warrior-rise-of-the-ynnari-ebook.html
Definitely prime in as pure of white you can get, highlight down from there. This will allow you to get the brightest whites/colors possible.
I would recommend against miniature painting lines for primer. You've gotta go with the people have been doing this for years.
Go down to your local hardware store/wal-mart and pick up some Rust Oleum american accents white primer (PRIMER NOT PAINT!!). Goes on smooth (shake it really well before use), and dries stark white.
On top of the incredibly good quality, it's like $4 a can.
If you want to paint them black, I have had great success using these StaedtlerPigmentLiner. Pretty self explanitory, and really any fine tipped felt pen should work, but these are top notch.