What are
/r/Fusion360's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Fusion360:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/Fusion360:
SOLIDWORKS
Quixel Suite
Blender
Convertio
Onshape
Lutris
meshmixer
Greenshot
Gumroad
Google Photos
recordit.co
Inkscape
Cults.
Send
Microsoft OneDrive
The most popular reviews in /r/Fusion360:
3D PRINTING PROJECTS: 200 3D Practice Drawings For 3D Printing On Your 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/1072617633/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O7XODbAP6KWT2
It's given me a lot of practice drawing parts out and I can knock out most in under 5 minutes, but that yoke backplate has been giving me hell.
Onshape has a free option . The caveat is your designs will be open to the public, there might be other restrictions as well.
Comes in the kit. I scanned both the plans and the balsa sheets on a flatbed scanner, then imported them as canvasses. You can calibrate the canvas size easily , then it’s just a lot of tracing.
I’m building it in CAD first because I’m going to convert it to radio controlled.
https://www.amazon.com/Guillows-F6F-Hellcat-Model-Kit/dp/B0006GZ2GU
After seeing Lars Christensen had posted a video about it I modeled and rendered it in fusion 360 without following his tutorial. I didn’t have a lego brick with me, so I struggled to find measurements and technical drawings of it on the web. If anyone could link me to good technical drawings of lego I would be grateful. I couldn’t find any vector drawings of the text used on the block studs so I traced it in illustrator. If you have any questions, please feel free to askFusion file: https://a360.co/2yVyhuWLego logo used on bricks svg: https://files.fm/u/8ngummpp
It's close to impossible to find anything decent for free... If you haven't seen it yet hdrihaven.com and option two... create your own in blender
Put your picture in there :
Get the DXF, import DXF into Fusion then the borders should be selectable and you can extrude different parts to different heights.
I gave it a shot.
Started with the large outline arcs in 2 sketches, 3 point arcs with line along axis (both sketches). Mine is 100mm long and 20mm high. Put straight lines from the axes to the arc, where the "rail" arcs will line up with later.
Created square sketch perpendicular to plan of both arc sketches at max dims of sketches in those axes (20mm by 20mm), then made 3 offset planes to that where the "rail" arcs go. Mine are at 20, 50, and 80mm.
Created sketches in each offset plane. Hit the "include 3D geometry" (Sketch> Project/Include) option and select the two lines that come from your first two sketches, intersecting the axis line and the large arc. This makes it so your mouse snaps to the vertices of these lines. Then draw new lines in your new sketch over top of them. Fillet your new lines to whatever looks good -- 13mm on the 20mm and 80mm, 20mm in the centre, for me.
Go into patch mode and create a loft: the large arcs are your 2 profiles, the mini "rail" arcs are... you guessed it, the rails. Fin.
The first time I tried it I did it a bit differently, without the "include 3d geometry" stuff. This made things not quite line up in the end. I kludged it by putting points on each of the vertices of the mini "rail" arcs, creating a plane through those three points (Construct > Plane through 3 points), then sketching a spline through all 5 points (2 ends of large arcs plus 3 new vertices points). I then pulled the loft through 3 profiles: the two arcs and the new spline, no rails needed.
Both examples at this finely crafted OneDrive link: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=147B99AB726C0213!9368&authkey=!ABWuqtG9F8rzo4I&ithint=folder%2cf3d
[edit]Here's an image for those that don't want to download F360 files: https://i.imgur.com/SDCSurt.png
Exactly. I would prefer pricing that looks a lot like jetbrains: https://www.jetbrains.com/idea/buy/#personal?billing=yearly
$250/year and then each year it gets a bit cheaper and always come with a 'fall back' license which is a sweet perk that feels like you're earning 'equity' in the software.
$250/year is the f360 DISCOUNT price and there's no promise of that discount again next year and absolutely no promise that the version you 'pay' for is the version you'll be able to keep forever.
Honestly, f360 may want to consider something like $10/month and some sort of 'cloud credit multiplier' for things. As much as I hate micro transactions, i see this as being a good use for them.
- on the $10/month plan, you get no 'free' credits and everything costs 3x the cloud credit price.
- on the $30/month plan, you get some monthly allotment of credits added to your account balance and things only cost 1.5x the normal cloud credit prices.
- on the $60/month plan, you get a better allotment of credits every month and the multiplier is 1.0. ... etc
I'd stick to the $10 plan and just pay more for the few times a year where i need generative design or a render that's going to take longer than a few overnight hours.
You'll need to read up on o-ring design. There are pretty well defined tolerances for the groove profile depending on the o-ring you want to use. I believe the IP ratings are strictly tests which must be passed to ensure water-tightness. Haven't looked at IP ratings since 2015, but I don't think there's much in the way of design criteria in those standards.
I've seen where the grooves are off maybe .006" and not hold pressure. I'd recommend having a copy of the Machinery's Handbook, but there are probably some good resources to describe o-ring design online as well.
This is a good place to start:
https://www.amazon.com/Machinerys-Handbook-29th-Erik-Oberg/dp/083112900X
Asus laptop This one is a pretty good laptop but I would recommend you to bump your price a little bit so you can get a rtx 3060 laptop which is pretty useful for other software and is going to perform well for some time. But 3050 will be fine for fusion 360 .
It’s from the Guillow’s kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006GZ2GU
I won’t be sharing anything from this project that’s a direct derivative of the plans for copyright reasons. But I’ll eventually post my changes to the plans for my RC conversion.
I just scanned in the plans and the balsa sheets on a flatbed scanner. Used canvas objects to place them for tracing. Canvasses can be calibrated, and I made sure the plans and sheets were the same scale.
There’s still some slop, which explains why these things require so much goddamned sanding.
It's not a dual i7, Duo is just part of the name because it has a second screen. Price of a new one with a better processor (Ryzen) is like $3600: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Zephyrus-Gaming-Laptop-Nebula/dp/B09YN6PTYM
polycam does have an android version but it's a photo based scan. Worth a shot, if you get a decent enough scan then just pay the 7 bucks to export an optimal format
Video of polycam to fusion tutorial: https://learn.poly.cam/f6705be9669b472f8f521d9f389087f6
Hi everyone,
I use the "Polycam" App (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ai.polycam) to make a 3D-scan of an object my son made in school. For free it exports the scan as a .GLFT format (sometimes also called .glb) which contains the mesh and the texture. (so that's why I don't just want to convert it into .stl).
But I can't import it into Fusion 360 (it imports, but when I want to open in Fusion360 it it just opens the webpage where the file is uploaded on the Fusion360-cloud.
How can I import it to use? Do I need to convert it? If so with what converter and into what file-format would you convert it to keep the texture which is in the .GLFT file?
(The texture is pretty important, so .stl isn't an option.)
This is my .glb file which I made by scanning.
To View: poly.cam/capture/a4b699ab-dd82-459b-8b68-d01dbc19806c
To download: https://storage.polycam.io/captures/a4b699ab-dd82-459b-8b68-d01dbc19806c/raw.glb?t=1653228264074
Thank you all very much for your ideas and your help!
I don’t have a G13 to test on this on, but you might be able to get something working with autohotkey. It’s possible to simulate most inputs and automate just about anything in windows. The language is pretty simple. There’s a lot of info and plenty of resources online. Here’s a link that could point you in the right direction:
https://autohotkey.com/board/topic/96879-moving-via-analog-joystick/
If you want to give it a shot, but can’t figure it out. I can take a look when I have some free time late Monday night.
Yes, same concept but mine is this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08S6LL8HN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
but as far as i can tell, the links are the same.
Solid answer. Hopefully OP has some decent digital calipers! If not, I have used these for ~6 years and like them ($30):
iGaging IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper 0-6" Display Inch/Metric/Fractions Stainless Steel Body https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001AQEZ2W
They are complicated pieces but the track is basically a bunch of these clipped together and it creates a sort of "snake body" effect that can take any shape.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08S6LL8HN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
My idea was to extend this track longer... because my son got bored of it , watching it going in circles (or 8's) in less than 15minutes.
And obviously I could just buy another one and extend it...but then i would lose the opportunity of learning more Fusion 360, spend countless hours printing and fighting with tolerances... and where is the fun in that? :P :P
Great! So here’s the SolidWorks certification stuff: https://www.solidworks.com/solidworks-certification-program
Honestly since you’re in engineering school you could probably talk your way into an internship/co op that pays pretty well. Though, most schools make taking a semester long internship part of your curriculum—does yours? Talk to your academic advisor/career development people at your school, they can probably help you find some work.
This one looks pretty much the same as yours.
and a few of these are certainly more innovative and smaller than yours
I thought I did include a picture. New to reddit too. Maybe this will work: https://photos.google.com/u/1/share/AF1QipOvfG9PK7wIgxdPo-2KbmLJvvt5j-5oX6EXlL0Zls_6xvBVEvB8VIVcfe2F7Y-suQ/photo/AF1QipMy2Nl1IOd4b4UUwBXDbDC5AgRcyLN77rzctht5?key=dk96eG5OWTRzR0tfSzVXMVp3V1BWd0hyYVVkZlZR
Yes, I'm using modify fillet, but when I select an edge, it just rounds it off before the squared off part.
Currently only available at the german amazon platform (we are still waiting for it to roll out to the rest of Europe).
But we do send to other countries at airbell.bike. If your country isn't listed drop as an email an we can arrange shipping.
If you can wait, our distributer is planning to roll out to countries outside EU in 2022.
Here´s the Amazon Link. We just rolled out on amazon before Christmas and they are so slow, it's still only available in the german store. Depending on where you're from, it might take some time till amazon will make the AirBell available in your country.
Alternatively, you can buy it on AirBell.bike - send us an e-mail and we can arrange shipping, especially if you want to order more.
Last but not least: a big EU-distributer is rolling out the product in spring 2022 all over the world, so if you keep nagging your favorite bike store, they might stock it. ;-)
Here is one I have:
Fusion 360 for Makers: Design Your Own Digital Models for 3D Printing and CNC Fabrication https://www.amazon.com/dp/1680453556/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CEBM11RCHS61HWFZVF01
The issue is, Fusion is continuously evolving and stuff that was written a year ago is out of date. The UI went through a major revision about 18(?) months ago so even YouTube videos are out of date.
I designed this backpack mount to attach it to my backpack while hiking, but it would fit almost any other backpack shoulder strap. A thick and wide strap (mine is 60mm wide and 3mm thick in compressed condition) would reduce shaking but it will not slip down for nearly any strap size, even if you attach it to a thin (<1mm) strap (which I tried). It will fit up to a 5mm thick strap in compressed condition.
It can be downloaded for free from:
Depending on the use case, even SketchUp might be a little overkill.
I was googling interior design software a while back for home reno, and was recommended 3ds max. Honestly, 3ds max and SketchUp probably gives too much freedom and capability, like does anyone need to design the exact profile of the base cap?
Anyway, I settled with this. Should be enough to see if things fit and a quick low res visualisation. Sketchup is certainly an option if OP needs some more granular control for customisation, but it would be more work.
Wow you weren't kidding. I see some used ones on FB marketplace. Is there even a function in fusion to use a 3d mouse? I was looking at this as an alternative https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0735584RM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_4JN4SPADX2WGVW50WRPS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Meshes this complicated will be alot easier to work with using mesh mixer (http://www.meshmixer.com/).
Fusion can support mesh geometries, but is not designed to handle such complex ones :)
The problem is Inkscape only supports an older version DXF. What I've done before is use something like https://convertio.co/dxf-svg/ to get Inkscape to recognize the splines. Beware that this conversion to SVG will probably mess up the scale of your file, so you will need to do some math and resize it accordingly.
There are two issues.
You should be using the solid revolve command, not the sweep command. Make sure to use the blue solid revolve (SOLID Tab) and not the orange surface revolve (SURFACE tab).
Your profile and axis are not aligned properly. See this screenshot - https://snipboard.io/atgbIp.jpg
Although Fusion 360 does not require the profile and axis to touch, it's best practice to do so...as this prevents the error message you're receiving "Error: The profile crosses the revolve axis. Try moving the profile, or trimming it along the axis, so that there is no overlap."
You need to move your axis to the left so it aligns with the left line of the profile (bottom middle of the beer bottle). I would suggest simply deleting the axis line and drawing it again, this time making sure it snaps into your profile.
I've also used Tinkercad for this. But beware, the tolerances it generates are extremely poor. For example, in Tinkercad, this looks fine: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/eA2ATftNy7D. But when I export it into Cura, the sides of the magnet holder vanish and I'm left with a gap.
(I'm now trying to learn Fusion360 to fix the tolerance issues)
I've also noticed it doesn't join parts very well (obvious when you slice the model, you'll see "outer" walls in the middle of the object where there should be only infill). So after using TinkerCAD, you should still clean up the mesh in something else...
On Mac:
- CMD-SHIFT-4 - this will present you with a crosshair. You can then click and drag to select the area you would like to capture. Captured screenshots will automatically be saved to the desktop by default.
On Windows:
- Windows is slightly more difficult since this functionality isn't built in, but there are multiple free applications that can be installed that grant this functionality. The most popular ones that I am aware of are Greenshot and Lightshot.
- Once installed either of the applications can be configured to take a screenshot in the same way as you can on a mac. I bind them to the printscreen button - and then all you have to do is press
PrtSc, select the area you wish to screenshot, and save or copy it somewhere. - There's also the built-in snippet tool. Win+shift+s
Once installed these applications will simply run all the time in the background and always provide this functionality.
Okay, cool, not to be a bummer but 2-in-1s are a waste of money for engineering students and intended for other fields. They look cool but that's about it. I have one associate that stopped using his surface pro after a year in place of a normal laptop and a student I tutored that would red line their assemblies so that no more changes could be made. I also have some tickets I am still working on about touch screen lock where Fusion glitches and gets stuck in orbit mode until it is restarted or the touch screen is disabled. It doesn't happen frequently but enough that it could happen to you.
If you're on a tight budget, I recommend a small desktop with a 10400F, B560, and a M2000 with 16GB ram and a good ssd. You can build this for about $500 if not less and put the extra money into a nice tablet or humble laptop to remote desktop from or get yourself a massive 22 inch touch screen or larger. The best thing is you can upgrade it over time rather than dig a hole in your wallet.
Otherwise this below is an option which is a decent laptop to get you through some years:
Just take good care of it and use a nice laptop cooling tray whatever laptop you buy.
If so, I think I would be able to afford something like this for summertime. I don’t want to spend too much, because the 3D printer bug came along expensive with the addition of a tall work table and chair. I’m already $1k into it.
You already have calipers. Buy a thread gauge. Those two tools are all you need.
As for the threads, I'm going to make those a lot less intense. Here's an epoxy resin that's fda certified for food contact: https://www.amazon.com/MAX-CLEAR-GRADE-Epoxy-System/dp/B01J16MYSE/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=food+safe+epoxy+resin&qid=1612849666&sr=8-11
Just get this mouse. It will change your life if you like keyboard shortcuts/hot keys without touching the keyboard. I swear I am twice as fast in fusion (and other apps) with this mouse.
Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse, RGB Backlit, 20 Programmable Buttons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086UK7IQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_zrU6FbMSC4XT0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XR4X2D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00
Dunno why there are bad reviews. I work with Win10 and it paired just fine.
>bluetooth data connector for my calipers
They sell them for like 50 bucks:
I haven't used Fusion 360 on it yet, but I think the new laptop I just bought might be a good fit for you.
The processor is a 7th generation i7 (the newest is 8th gen), but by going with a slightly slower processor, I was able to get a 256GB SSD, Nvidia GeForce 940MX dedicated GPU, 12 GB of RAM and a touchscreen display all for under $800.
It hits the sweet spot of power and price because it's very well-rounded.