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I keep on of these in my trailer and I find it much easier and safer than a jack.
Edit to fix link.
Took the 04 Jayco Qwest out for its second trip with us last week to the beach in California for a whole week.
Foam Mattress topper cut to size on Amazon made a huge difference for our bed. New roof vent, and caulking ( Geocel 28127V ) for all the roof/cracks/etc we stayed dry w/ a night of rain.
50W Renogy solar kit gave us no worries for lights and stereo usage at night (plus some phone charging). Kids got sand EVERYWHERE. Ants suck. they didn't get into food, just wanted water. Tips to keep them out next time?
Kids just kept saying "Best Day EVER!" all the time. I think they had a blast. First full week off of work in 3+ years. Made new friends w/ the campsite neighbors.
The 6v golf cart batteries from Costco or Sams Club are what people usually recommend. I have them and they work well.
Also, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS Single best upgrade I've done to my trailer.
Does yours have the thetford plastic toilet? Ours does and on our past trip I had to replace the valve on it. It's pretty easy to do but not having the part on hand made for some extra cleanup everytime we flushed. Luckily it only leaked while being flushed. If you have this toilet in yours, I recommend having an extra on hand. Our Jayco is 3 years old now. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2SKLH1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_WXMW5HB80G80F8ZG916E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
VIAIR. They make them with either a 12V DC power plug or clamps to go directly to battery.
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These don’t weigh enough that you ever need to leave it out or exposed - it WILL go missing. The plastic handle can be cut and there’s a theft deterrent handle that you can buy that helps a bit. But really...it WILL go missing
Using a cable lock is a ridiculous idea, they’re cut in an instant without making any noise. Don’t use anything less secure than something like the Kryptonite chain. I have 6 feet of a similar brand from a local locksmith for securing mountain bikes to my trailer frame. The locksmith I bought it from said it’ll break any bolt cutters and if you try to grind through it you’re likely to cut yourself - perfect!
I have a plastic Melitta plastic pour over "system" that I have had for about 40 years. No moving parts and still works great.
You can get a wireless brake control module you know. Your trailer plugs into it and it plugs in to your tow plug outlet (job idea what it’s called lol) then the part just plugs into a cigarette lighter and you can increase or decrease the braking power. Like this one
Yeah I don't think it is the best place to do the flush. But also something like this has come in handy when I have been in a pinch for needing water out of spigot or hose with no thread
You can try getting a black water tank wash nozzle and spray it around through the toilet. Amazon link.
We go to 5-6 music festivals a year in our RV. It is shocking to see how thoughtlessly people use generators. Blasting exhaust into the camper or tent next to them. Running it all weekend. It's amazing that more people aren't injured or killed by it.
We us a device called a "Genturi", (Amazon Link) which is basically an extended exhaust that takes the fumes up over the camper, so it's not blowing into your windows or other campers. I've heard that some events are making these mandatory for generator use, and I think all events should do so. The thing is less than $100 and really increases safety as well as comfort.
If you have an RV with a built-in genny, I can't recommend this thing enough.
Please consider your neighbors and your own safety every time you run your generator.
I'd recommend you only use your fresh hose for 1 thing - getting fresh water into your rv for drinking. black tank sprayer (flush connection on outside) really should have it's own hose.
Because of water pressure, when you cut off the spigot, there is the possibility of backflow coming back up to where your blacktank sprayer connection is located.
I use a hose sort of like this one - it is gray/black so that it is clear always that it is for "black" tank stuff. I wrap it around the ladder when it's not in use so that it is never in the storage bay with my other hoses/gear.
Also, get one of these vacuum breakers and leave it permanently attached to your gray hose - this helps to reduce the possibility of backflow. When you turn off the water at the spigot, this will allow some of the water to "spit" out, thus relieving some of the water pressure in the hose. I have mine attached to the end of the hose that attaches to the spigot - not the end that attaches to the blacktank sprayer port.
Amazon link below. No prime day deal :(.
It does a great job with eggs. I have a bulls-eye level I use to level it up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KZPXG7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this stuff: Camco Pro-Tec RV Rubber Roof Care System - Two Step Treatment Rids Dirt and Grime and Reduces Roof Chalking | Extends the Life of RV & Trailer Rubber Roofs - 2 Gallons (41453) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T9IR9M6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_JqCRFbBV2MBY6
Works pretty well
It's just a normal halogen819 bulb I have them in the little lights on the headboard on my bed. I used to get them at home cheepo but I order them on amazon
No need to pay $100 for Cabela’s to slap their name on it. You can get zero gravity chairs way cheaper on amazon.
Best Choice Products Set of 2 Adjustable Zero Gravity Lounge Chair Recliners for Patio, Pool w/ Cup Holders - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KK3C52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-OwdBbZ61CP65
My friends have the set listed above and they are pretty comfortable and easy to adjust. We have a different set, but I can’t find a link for them.
I definitely recommend using zero gravity chairs while camping. They are so comfortable. You need to get ones with the clip on table (or order the table separately).
Even without the pressure/altitude change, the dump valves will leak a little, and that dribbles out when you take the cap off. You’re ‘supposed to’ hold the hose under the cap to catch the dribble but I was never much good at that.
I got one of these twist on valves https://smile.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-Twist-On-Waste-Valve/dp/B000BGHYJS/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=valterra+twist+on&qid=1625888682&sr=8-1 and put that valve where the cap used to go and travel with the valve closed. When I hook up, I put the sewer hose on first and then open this valve so any dribble just goes down the hose - no muss, no fuss. The original cap goes on the outside of the new valve but it’s really just cosmetic. I call it the anti-dribble valve.
Permethrin is your friend, not just for ticks but for insects, as well. You can also buy it cheaper as a concentrate and dilute yourself.
You do have to be cautious if you have cats, though (wouldn't personally recommend in that case). I treat my family's "hiking clothes" this time of year and it usually gives good protection for the season. You can also treat hammocks and such.
I'd get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-0187VP-Flexible-Tank-Wand/dp/B000BGHYE8/
Flush with the tank open, and as others have said, you'll need to fill it some and let it sit between flushes to soften things.
If you don't have one already, there are clear sewer connectors that will help see what's coming out while flushing.
You can also refill the disposable 1 pound tanks from a 20 pound tank with this adapter. It requires freezing the one pound tank first and inverting the 20 pound tank when you connect it which is a bit of a hassle, but it's way cheaper and easier than buying new tanks constantly.
They sure are. I had to reinforce the cabinet wall, since it was just a thing wood panel. These are the brackets I used:
You dont need a 2nd surge protector. Just get an adapter. The surge protector plugs into the adapter and then it can plug into a normal household outlet.
Assuming your trailer is a tandem axle, wouldn’t a ‘trailer aid’ be less expensive, and lighter to carry, as well as faster to use?
https://www.amazon.ca/Trailer-Aid-Plus-Tandem-Changing/dp/B001V8UKBO
Edit: just saw you have a fifth wheel. Maybe your trailer is too heavy for one of these. I dunno.
Anyway glad that you didn’t have more damage than the tire.
The white fresh water hoses are so stiff and hard to store. I ended up buying a collapsible 50' hose that can be scrunched up and tossed in a tote. It works out to a similar price per foot and it is so much nicer to use. Just make sure you buy a drinking water safe version.
I got one of these off Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MTJWT68
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Instead of using the legs, I drilled 2 holes to slot the rail in to. It holds very snug.
Cut and polish a big enough piece of 1/8-3/16 aluminum to cover the two damaged areas. Remount the handle. Call it a day. Use Stainless steel screws.
I did something similar when I ditched the cheap marker lights for penny lights.
Just 3d art that I've been working on. If you are interested in seeing more you should go here https://dribbble.com/ajaykarat/projects/252743-Low-Poly I'll take a hug, any day Cheers
Check the TV manual and see if you can tell if the input is listed as 12v, or something like 12-15v. You can probably find a PDF of the manual on the manufacturer’s website. If it truly wants 12v specifically, you might consider a 12v DC to DC power supply that will take the 12-14v range that your charging system will produce and regulate it to 12v. I did this for my mobile Internet equipment. Something like this (you would need to make sure you get one rated for enough amps to power the TV.). https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Automatic-12V-Waterproof-Transformer/dp/B07WFMKMV9
Here you go, it only uses one leg of the 240v to give you 120v but it makes your ground hot so use at your own risk
10-50P MALE 3-PIN PLUG to TT-30R FEMALE Receptacle NEMA 220-250V Input 110-125V Output RV Camper Power Cord Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JBSYTBY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XJF73DZC05KCSDNNWKC8
Thoughtful Mfrs put a sticker on the side, pointing to where the handle is under the frame. Likely one for kitchen galley and another one for the bathroom sink/shower.
If both drain into common outlet pipe, a helpful trick to stay out of a jam is to get a snap on separate gate valve at outlet, then if one gray is full while the other is empty, you can open both gray valves and even them out. Plus the extra gate valve avoids nasty suprises when you take the cap off, if there has been gray/black valve leakage. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGHYJS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_TJZTCMEMKQ9ZAQR604G6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
We need to know some specs if you can get them. How many amp hours (AH) is your current battery rated? Let's say it is a generic 100 AH lead acid battery. This would mean that you really only have 50 AH usable current.
Then we need to know how many amps/watts are the fans/devices you want to run. Being conservative, say the LED lights draw 2 amps per hour and you use them for 4 hours a night. That would equal 8 amps per 24 hour period. The fans, let say they draw 3 amps each per fan. That would be 6 amps per hour of use. In a 24 hour period if you used the fans for 6 hours a day would equal 36 AH per 24 hours (3+3 X 6 hours).
Your total usage per 24 hours is 8 amps (LED's) + 36 amps (2 fans for 6 hours) = 44 AH per 24 hours. The numbers are fictional but conservative. You have used almost all of the available 50 AH in a 24 hour period.
With a single 100 watt 12 volt panel, you would need approx. 6 hours of sun per day to replace the 44 AH you used the night before.
I also have a popup which I installed a sealed 100AH battery and charge it with a 160 watt solar panel. We run a TV, 2 laptops, tablet, lights, and a furnace. We have just completed a month long trip in the southwest (lots of sun) with 3 people and we all used our stuff. Never had a problem with a low battery.
If I were you I would get a new battery, a portable solar panel of at least 100+ watts (more is better) and purchase a meter so you know how much power you have used in the morning and how much you have charged in the afternoon. I run much more than you and have no problems on a 100 AH battery.
We have the KZ180TH. We use an ottoman that has storage space for our pantry goods.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y9NGC7H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9HW76EV9KAPP0SYSEBTC
In our layout we have two bunks up front and a couch that folds down to a bed. Allows us with 3 kids to sleep (including the pack-n-play) .
My last tow vehicle did not have a mounted brake controller. I used a bluetooth one that plugged into the 7 pin and was controlled through my phone: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-51180-Controller-Bluetooth-Enabled-Proportional/dp/B07JQ99SDD
I did lose the first one though after some rough freeway, so be sure to strap it in place.
Welcome to new RVs. (I bought a 2020 last year)
I now carry pex crimper/cutters, stainless pex crimp bands and various 1/2 pex fittings. (including valves now) I suggest the crimpers that also cut as they'll let you re-use things if you need.
Your toilet should only have the one water inlet. Mine also has a hose sprayer that's handy for cleaning out the bowl. Your water supply for the whole camper should definitely not go THROUGH your toilet.
It sounds like they didn't install the sprayer and hooked a water line to the port that's for it.
Look at the first picture and you'll see what I mean - that outlet port is for a sprayer.
https://www.amazon.com/Thetford-31676-Aqua-Magic-Toilet-High-Profile-Parchment/dp/B000BGM8DU
For a quick and easy check, turn off all the breakers in your rig. Then hook up to the pedestal. Turn on one breaker at a time until something trips. Then you'll know where to start troubleshooting with your meter.
I installed a simple volt / amp meter in my rig, it helps understand what I'm plugged in to and how much power I'm drawing. I bought this one:
I am trying Turtle Wax Graphene Spray Wax which has UV blockers on my E-Pro. It's expensive, but easy to apply and can also be used on the glass and trim. It also makes it a breeze to wash off after a trip, especially bugs on the front.
For plastic stuff like the propane tank cover I use 303 spray. I also 303 the tires, but do have covers for them and the electric hitch.
I had the same problem every ~3 months for the past year and a half...the valves go bad on these things fairly easily – so much so that I keep an extra on hand for when I start to notice the water pooling at the base. I pulled the toilet off, replaced flange seals, etc. etc. and the fix for this is relatively easy if your valve is easily accessible. The water line heads into this valve.
Here's the one I've had the best luck with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0859K8SJ5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Another option that is basically the same thing is the Beech Lane Levelers:
Beech Lane Camper Leveler 2 Pack - Precise Camper Leveling, Includes Two Curved Levelers, Two Chocks, and Two Rubber Grip Mats, Heavy Duty Leveler Works for Campers Up to 35,000 LBs https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PM8X48R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_60VT301X7J5TA6P1E6VR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not only are they cheaper, but have been more durable in our use. Our Andersens cracked after 4 trips (and were promptly replaced, Andersen’s warranty is top notch), whereas the Beech Lanes have made it through 11 trips so far and aren’t showing any stress marks. I gave the Andersens to my FiL because they camp maybe 2 times a year and have a smaller trailer.
That sucks, they should clearly know better. Depending on your truck model you can get an adapter that plugs right into the harness. This one for instance worked for my '16 F-150. No cutting or splicing, just plug and play. YMMV.
Works for us. Alerts if temp or humidity goes past thresholds. Wifi in RV necessary.
I probably go to the extreme side of things, but I would clean it auto wash and microfiber, then use bug & tar remover with microfiber only as required to get the bugs off. I'd follow-up w/clay barring it, but that's me. In any case, after you have it completely clean apply a good coat of wax to it. I like Turtle Wax graphene spray because it's flexible, long-lasting, has UV protection to help with fading, and is super easy/quick to apply (I'm also lazy). But it's expensive. So, even a cheap carnauba wax from AutoZone or Wal-mart will be okay, too. Both will make it much easier to remove bugs and road grime going forward.
If I do nothing else when I get home from a trip, I give the front of the trailer a quick wash with auto soap and microfiber.
The Haloview MC5111 5'' 720P HD Digital Wireless Backup Camera System has an adapter for Furion pre-wired setups. I ended up keeping the Furion pre-wired “shell” that holds the camera with some DIY mods. The frame rate is probably only 15 frames per second, but it’s good enough to help out and made driving and backing up less stressful.
Bio-Kleen M00509 Black Streak Remover - 1 Gallon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007H2RJ80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GGG4MGCV1855V8R99KCR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use this with a buffing attachment and a cordless drill, comes right off and looks brand new.
Definitely cornhole and what we call testicle toss (unsure of actual name and apologies)
For board games, we love Shut the Box https://smile.amazon.com/WE-Games-Numbers-World-Styled/dp/B002QZ26WM/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2MEDVQ3G09AA&dchild=1&keywords=shut+the+box&qid=1611098704&sprefix=shut+the+bo%2Caps%2C559&sr=8-8
I was just at walmart and they were selling a plastic version of this for $25...and then I checked Amazon and see them for $13 or $20 depending on distance between wheels... https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44622-Wheel-Stop-Large/dp/B000BUU5Y0
I still understand you can pick up the hardware at Lowes and make your version for $5... just thought I would share this info because I looked at X-Chocks (too expensive) and don't have time to make my own right now.
It's underbelly tape. Used to repair cuts made to the underbelly to access things that need repair. You can buy more on Amazon or any RV repair place will have it. It's like 8" wide and super sticky. Only take the backing off a few inches at a time if you replace it yourself. Also make sure the underbelly is really dry or it will start peeling like it is in your picture.
TL;DR It's basically duct tape for underbelly repairs.
Try this
I bought this on on Ebay the other day. The same model on Amazon is over $200. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Solar-TPMS-Wireless-RV-Tire-Pressure-Monitoring-System-6-Sensor-LCD-Display-/112197954340?hash=item1a1f84eb24:g:HCUAAOSwal5YIbyW&vxp=mtr
I haven't received it yet (from China), but the reviews on Amazon for it are pretty good. https://www.amazon.com/CARCHET-Pressure-Monitoring-Trailer-External/dp/B01H3KPZSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483877702&sr=8-1&keywords=6+sensor+tpms
I got it on Amazon, it's basically standard between 3500lb, 5000lb, and 6500lb axles, respectively. (I think I got the right numbers)
EDIT: Here's an example(I think this is allowed) 10" x 2-1/4" Trailer Electric Brake Assembly (1 right + 1 left) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098M5LUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AcqKzbPA0HTXY
I bought this on Amazon a couple weeks before we got our trailer and negotiated them to do the installation as part of the deal.
It is possibly one of the most pain-free hitches I've ever used. It's simple, it doesn't need messed with to back the trailer, and it Just Works™ Customer service is pretty good too. We lost one of the bar lockdown pins so I emailed them to ask for a part number so I could replace it. They sent me 3 of them in the mail for no charge, so now I have some extras too.
I know I kinda sound like a fanboy here, but it's a really damn nice hitch. We towed our 32' TT all across the southwest last summer, and I had no issues with the hitch at all, including some pretty gnarly side winds for about a 75 mile stretch of I-40 in SoCal.
Hey! I just installed a brake controller in my 2006 Tunda (First gen). My brake adapter was taped to the wall of the left side behind and to the left of the parking brake.
I bought the adapter on amazon and that Tekonsha brake controller and it works great. I did have to ground one of the wires (You'll see... it's a black one with a loop at the end) I just unscrewed a bare bolt to the frame down there and put it on there. No big deal.
The hardest part was there was almost no room to move down there.
It's plug n play, so good luck! Be sure to test it out before you go on the road! Much different with a brake controller.
We pull a Kodiak Cub 175BH (3400 lb dry weight) with a Jeep Grand Cherokee V6. I went with the Andersen No Sway Weight Distribution Hitch # 3350. Its at amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3350-Weight-Distribution-Hitch44/dp/B006X21B0M
We went with that hitch for a few reasons:
1) It is a lot lighter than other quality hitches like the blue ox or equalizer. The Grand Cherokee can hypothetically tow 6500 lbs but the limiting factor ends up being how much weight the Jeep can carry. Every pound taken up by a hitch was taking away from tongue weight/cargo. Also my Wife can carry and install the hitch since it doesn't weigh 100lbs.
2) It is simple to install and use.
3) It works great with our setup. I am not feeling any sway and it easily transfers weight to level everything out.
EDIT:
I forgot #4: It is silent while in use, I think the creaking and groaning of friction bars would drive me crazy being so close to the back window of the Jeep.
Any 12 volt light will replace it. Also if you have LED light bulbs in it, you can switch them out to a "soft white" type.
This one on amazon is one that I found that is dimmable!
Zinus mattresses from Amazon are amazing. We have two at home, one in the RV, and many family members and friends who've bought them. They're cheap and incredibly comfortable.
Many of the RV supplied solar ports are Zamp ports which have their polarity reversed when compared to many panels. It's important that people test the polarity of their panels and port. If necessary reverse polarity adapters are readily available from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AHCWGOO
That's a momentary dpdt reversing switch rated at 30 amps at 12 volts. It's manufactured by sigma, but their website doesn't list a 280 series. Since they're in Elkhart, it's probably a manufacturer only item, but it might be worth checking.
There are similar on Amazon or northern toolbut you'll need to check that they'll fit the hole you have.
Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-80708-Dogbone-Electrical-Adapter/dp/B071G16LLP/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=50+amp+to+110v+adapter+rv&qid=1597959348&sprefix=50amp+&sr=8-9
Or this depending on the direction
Just replace the jack. Relatively inexpensive to throw one on in 5 minutes rather than hours of trying to remove it, disassemble, bend back and correct issues. Here is one.
I saw some people use the outside shower with a shower tent. This should definitely help with the gray water tank, esp with units with larger freshwater tanks than gray tanks or in campsites with fresh water supply but no gray/black hookups.
As for shower tent - I've seen these being used:
https://www.amazon.com/PARTYSAVING-Portable-Privacy-Outdoor-Camping/dp/B06XX4169Y
Has anyone tried it? do campsites allow this?
WDYT?
Thanks Steve!
I'm the guy programming it, so if anyone has suggestions, let me know. Steve is the reason for a lot of the current features with his helpful ideas - it's definitely a community effort.
You can either message me here, or email me:
If anyone needs a direct link to the apps, here's Google Play and iOS
Don't do a dimmer, better to use a Pwm controller https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Adjustable-Reversible-Switch-Reversing/dp/B01LYWNQBI/ref=asc_df_B01LYWNQBI/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=234376523249&hvpos=1o13&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6929394238136682209&hvpone=&h...
I use something like this on a standing desk where the dinette (which we weren't going to really use) used to be. I use it with an external mouse and keyboard (keyboard I would use anyway because I use ergo).
It's kind of a perfect "best of both worlds" setup. If power's out at our campground (which will happen) or we're boondocking, I still have a useable laptop, especially since a hotspot is our primary internet source. Our truck has an inverter with a 110 plug built into the dash which lets me charge it up in those conditions, too. Plus it's portable. I can sit on the couch and use it if I want, or bring it to a coffee shop, or sit outside under the awning.
If you're an RVer, I'd think the battery power and mobility would trump everything else. I was actually considering building a rig when we first moved into our RV, but changed my mind pretty quickly.
But to directly answer your question...yeah, you could have a desktop in your rig if you wanted.
I have a bunch of packing lists depending on the context. Feel free to copy/use at will, although some are customized with my dogs' names and such, haha.
https://www.notion.so/d23b7d2e2d4747aba637de42194594b5?v=8422817a61904be78aa6bac68a27b80c
Weather channel says it’s a full blown hurricane now.
Be careful out there.
There is another web site quite useful, which goes also full screen: http://www.routeplayer.com/
Another list of this type of web tool is present at this other link: http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/5-tools-to-take-an-auto-guided-google-street-view-tour/
Certainly right now, with Florida and the gulf shore states about to be hit by yet another hurricane fueled by the very warm gulf waters. Anyone in the path of that thing who has wheels should use those wheels to get inland.
https://weather.com/storms/hurricane/news/2018-10-08-hurricane-michael-forecast-gulf-coast-florida - category 3 is now predicted, and 12 foot storm surge.
Several larger companies offer the RV for $1/day rentals to get the RV to warmer areas of the country. December through Feb is a great time to visit the Southwest, so offering one-way trips for $1/day could entice someone to get the RV there.
You could also rent out the RV on desirable land, without the RV moving. Airbnb has many listings like this, but here's one in Alabama.
You could also market the RV as a getaway during the holidays, or a post-holiday retreat.
If your budget is in the $200 neighborhood, you might be better off getting a big family-sized tent. Costco has some that are easily as large (if not larger) than a pop-up. http://www.costco.com/home.aspx And no mouse holes or hanta virus. http://www.cdc.gov/hantavirus/rodents/ (not a fun disease for babies or pregnant women)
They don't take up much space in your car trunk. Our family of 4 lived in one for several months.
Just search "DVD ripper" for whatever OS you're using, rip the DVDs into whatever file type you chose and do with them as you please :) I wouldn't worry about the piracy thing. They're your DVDs after all.
I'm on a Mac and I use a program called "Ripit". It's super simple. http://thelittleappfactory.com/ripit/
I'm sure someone else can chime in about Windows' programs.
Edit: they have it for Windows as well http://www.aimersoft.com/rip-dvd/ripit-for-windows.html
I think your best bet is to start your research and decide what destinations you want to visit.
Once you do that, then go on some of the Almanac type sites that have historic weather reports
As you can well imagine, you want to save the northern most regions until after the thaw out. (April-July most places are thawed and safe depending on how far north)
The deep South can get pretty hot and humid in the summer months, so you may want to be in Canada in July, etc. so check historic weather for the cities, find what is the best time to visit them (or just do a google search for best time to visit_____ and plug in your destination).
Also, you might want to get an app on your phone called "co-pilot." I love that app. You have to pay for it, but it can tell you if there are any train trestles, or over passes on your route that you can't fit under in your RV (it happens).
And then cross your fingers. No excursion that long will go off without a hitch, but you can give yourself a good chance to succeed with good pre-planning.
I would love to do this. I am very jealous. I hope you enjoy it!! Personally, I'd go west first. There is all kinds of sweet ass shit there.
Though I don't have any specific recommendations, Roadtrippers is a fantastic sight to check out.
Wishing you safe travels!!
Bungie cords across the top or a net. When I had a 12ft TT we had a bungie net across the top from side to side for additional storage.
Like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JHG5R98
We kept deflated float tubes and fishing rods up in it.
Nope, I was able to get the wire inside from that point and I just found a plug to plug it in. I've seen other people strip the wire above the power supply and go directly into the 12v system at the porch light and use the porch light as the on off switch.
I had to buy an rgb extension like this one as well. This is the wire I used to get the power supply where I wanted it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L8V4YR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_T5DJJX6QKAQ12JB3PDEF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So here is what I bought for a camera for my 30’ TT. Works great. Simple to install. Hang it just above or below a running light on the rear. Wire it to the running light. When you need to use it you have to turn your running lights on to power it. Take the screen inside and plug it into a cigarette lighter. All done. Honestly you won’t want to keep the camera on while you’re driving. It’s very distracting and annoying after a while. But it’s great for backing up.
4Ucam Digital Wireless Camera + 7" Monitor for Bus, RV, Trailer, Motor Home, 5th Wheels and Trucks Backup or Rear View https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01B25HKU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S0SJ7SK1Y6TH8Z8BJ5K8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get a battery monitor that uses a shunt. (Something like this is relatively affordable: https://www.amazon.com/AiLi-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Voltage-Motorhome/dp/B07FGFFHC6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SSBCYK2IO4LR&dchild=1&keywords=shunt+battery+monitor&qid=1625617993&sprefix=Shunt+battery+moni%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-3 )
You can use it to see the rate of discharge and your current state to forecast time remaining. Never discharge below 50% which will read around 12.05 or so volts. So much depends on variables like the battery itself, your usage, etc. The data this device provides will help you manage your capacity and figure what draws a little and what draws a lot.
Spent a good several hours yesterday trying to spruce up the dull oxidized finish on my 2002 Winnebago.
Used Meguiar's Heavy Duty Oxidation Remover and a Black & Decker 6" Orbital Buffer
Very happy with the finished product. Really brightened the finish and gave the dull white chalky looking finish to a great newer look. After I was half way done my wife came outside and was shocked how much nicer the 1/2 I had done looked.
The process was time consuming but pretty easy. Just apply the oxidizer product to the buffer, complete a small area, wipe off the product with a clean cloth then repeat. After I would finish each section I'd hit the area with a spray on wax I grabbed at Autozone and wipe it off for extra protection. Just don't run the buffer on decals was the only thing I had to really watch.
Hard to capture in pictures but very happy with the end result. While the style may make her look dated, the brightened finish makes her look a lot newer.
Most are after market. You can and SHOULD buy a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) for your rig as it's a small price to pay for safety. My wife was in insurance and saw what a blown tire unnoticed by the driver can do to the undercarriage of a rig. She has even seen a total.
We have them on our coach and towed car hauler and the system alerted us to a 'fast leak' and sure enough, we had hit a nail. You can find them on Amazon or at a camper store. We use the EEZ RV TPMS!
I've been in Tucson for the past few weeks so I know the heat is comparable to what you've been seeing. When it hit 118 here my fridge could not keep up and we ended up throwing food away. I put in 2 computer case (actually GPU fans for mining crypto I think) one blowing across the coils inside the fridge and one outside in the vent compartment blowing across the absorption to help cool that down. I didn't expect it to work very well but now my fridge is actually freezing stuff (eggs, celery, etc) so it does work. Here's a link to the fans that I purchased (I just hardwired them to DC wires inside the fridge and also on the back side - pretty easy DIY job)
>tire pressure monitor system
We have this one, or rather, the older version of this one before it got a face lift. It's not a convection model but still cooks evenly. It's the perfect size for the two of us. Have cooked salmon in it many times, but if it's a large fish you may have to cut in half
They also make some larger ones though and some that are convection
had same issue a while back. get one of these backflush elbows (or similar) and see if it will at least move the blockage enough to let some of the fluids out. once the fluids are out, I built a swivel stick out of pvc, but you can buy one like this - spray that around in the toilet (even if you have a black tank flush/washer) hopefully to break up whatever is causing the blockage. Then, fill the tank up and try dumping.For mine, I ended up manually scraping away inside the tank using a 6ft. piece of thin aluminum in order to break up the blockage. I also have switched back to using an enzyme treatment in order to further break down whatever solids remain. Now, I never dump the tank until it is at least 3/4 full and even then I fill it with more water. When I put the trailer in storage, I always add 5 gallons water+enzyme. When i get to campground I stop at dump station and empty. When I get setup on the site, I put in around 3 gallons+enzyme. End of trip I stop at dump station to empty and then add 5 gallons for the drive home.
In other words, I try to always have water in it.
Have the gooseneck pulled out and get yourself one of these;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EOWRUW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fits in the same rails so you can easily switch between the two.
I use a Swagman. It’s served it’s purpose.
https://www.swagman.net/collections/rv-racks
Would recommended adding a brace. TT’s bounce around A LOT.
This happened to me on a 10 y/o trailer. I would start by replacing that seal ASAP, as it's the easiest way to limit water coming in.
Then I would re-do the slide-out roof with https://www.amazon.com/RecPro-Superflex-Rubber-Camper-Repair/dp/B07CL98GCL/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=slide-out+roof+kit&qid=1623624467&s=automotive&sr=1-2
But you have to remove the slide-out and that's a major undertaking.
If you want to buy some time, replace the seal, then get a slide-out topper, but you risk getting more water damage.
Usually the shore power AC 120 volts will go to a "transfer switch". The transfer switch allows you to automatically switch between plug in shore power and another source of 120 volts AC. The other source is commonly from a generator or an inverter (An inverter converts 12 volts DC to 120 volts AC).
When the power source leaves the transfer switch it will usually go to a breaker or breakers (50 amp service) in your circuit breaker box that has individual breakers for various components, all 120 volt AC. These could be outlets, Air conditioner, etc.
A "charge controller" usually refers to a solar power device that converts power from the solar panels into charging current for the batteries. The "charge controller" might also refer to a battery charger that will charge your batteries when you are on shore power. AC applications can only be run from a 120 volt AC source like an inverter, generator, or shore power. Batteries can power the inverter but batteries cannot run 120 volt AC devices.
Hope this clears things up a bit.
2 years ago I bought a black tank tool that goes down the toilet and sprays water into your black tank. I’ll be honest and say that back tank flush systems don’t get your tank clean. After using this tool for two years, at the end of the year using this tool cleans out more waste than the black tank flush can do. It’s not expensive but requires an extra few minutes of work. You won’t regret it.
I've found one of these really helped in my old trailer without a tank flush. After dumping, and clear water running out, it would still read 1/3. After running this a bit through the toilet, more gunk would flush out and it would read 0. Helps having a door near the bathroom obviously. But so far the blank tank flush on my new trailer is doing well, and the ice mix advice is always good.
classic lee loader in 303, a pith helmet, and this t-shirt:
Crazy Dog T-Shirts Youth Ask Me About Squatch T Shirt Funny Sarcastic Bigfoot Flip Tee for Kids https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RLVK9DB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ADGPJCPSM7VSM9W28YQJ?psc=1
Someone (or the State) added something like this to the end of the cut off hose at the rest area near my house in SW Washington. I'm thinking about adding one to my dump "kit" so I have the option if no one is in line and there isn't one available. I have noticed most of the rest areas in WA, that I have used, have the overhead spring loaded cut off hose system.
We had that problem with our bathroom light. The switch is a pushbutton on the fixture itself that our kids can't reach. We put a rechargeable LED light on the wall so they could get some light if they have to pee in the middle of the night.
The TP holder we have is linked below. We have it stuck to the floor with museum putty. Works great.
Hitch of your choice and try to make room for these guys?
Lippert 335852 Straptek Weight Tension Technology Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJZ3T7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_51YYQJ47T5D4FFGSYGFA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You could pick up a moisture detector like this:
I have one of these that I use when friends or myself are buying.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00275F5O2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Be careful with this - seeing a lot of reviews that it won't work for a lot of trailers based on the suspension type. The US one has some good comments / points in the reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-Tandem-Changing-Trailers-24/dp/B001V8UKBY
I replaced the radio with something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Amplifier-DAMGOO-Technique-Password/dp/B07XG33WPN
Primary difference is mine doesn't have a volume knob.
Then you just tuck this unit in the wall with the speaker and power wires and get a storage cubby where the radio was.
I never used the AM/FM radio. I only send music from my phone to the stereo, so this fulfills that need, sounds better AND is much more power efficient.
Install is very easy, you connect the speakers and power and you're done.
If you want something with more traditional with more features, any 12volt car stereo will work.
While the answers to #1 are probably right given how much you said there was, I have an issue with my rig where there is not enough slope in the drain lines so, once I hit the road after draining, the waste water stuck in the pipes finds its way to the cap. In my case, I just added one of these:
Clean with bleach and water
Then if enough of the wood is good I would coat with
Abatron LiquidWood 2 Quart Kit, Two Part Structural Epoxy Wood Hardener and Consolidant Resin. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WCL092/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZYC2J1WPW0XDC3X12ZMC
I found this one on Amazon: Haloview MC5111 5'' 720P HD Digital Wireless Backup Camera System
It comes with a wiring adapter compatible with Furrion Pre-Wired RVs. Image quality is decent and frame rate is probably around 15 FPS.
You can pull the underbelly off but a Valterra twist on valve gate from Amazon will be the cheaper and easier solution.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGHYJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_08Y3M4ZQXEPB5GA9N3QH
I have this in my Amazon cart for my 16FQ. I think you’d only be able to squeeze two adult bikes on it though.
If you put a 1/2" boiler valve in each of those, it speeds up the process when you need to drain your water lines. I put these in mine and it's so much more convenient: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07SN3FHKG (this is a 2-pack)