for sure yeah theyre able to but i wouldnt feel comfortable running at that temp. Do you have msi afterburner? and also make sure your the tower sits on something other than the ground.
this is the 120mm aio cooler that I found to be amazing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRATC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
This is the rear 92mm fan that I put in
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RUZ059O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I can take pictures in a bit when I get home, but as far as a difference, I have no way of showing that unfortunately.
I went with a 2TB XPG S8200 Pro because it was on sale at the time. It has been fine, but I usually buy Samsung 970 EVO Plus. I'd babysit slickdeals for a few days until a deal pops up.
Be careful, there are two SSD slots in the machine. Slot 1 has some components on the motherboard that prevent you from using a two-sided SSD, but Slot 0 does not. If you're adding a second drive you may need to move the stock SSD from Slot 0 to Slot 1.
I mean it's up to you, I've seen a 4 - 7°C decrease in CPU temps when I use my cooling pad. I don't know what you mean by "and not end up having my fans messed up", as I can't see that happening because of a cooling pad.
Additionally, you don't have to buy one, you can just prop your laptop up with a book or something from the back.
I would recommend either Wd black sn 750 or Samsung Evo 960
It's not going to be convenient or cheap. The Omen's don't have usb-c charging, so you'd need to find a portable battery bank with an AC plug that can support >200w so the laptop won't shut it down at max power draw.
They aren't small, or lightweight.
If you're in the US it's going to be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086P75DG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ZKZP1XFSAPF9G5H0JRX7
Deleted original post where I had used the word overheating which I got to know based on comments that I was misinterpreting for a 200w charger given the fact that the chargers go very hot normally. So updated the title.
How did I know that it was working: My model is R7 Rtx 2060. The temp hasn't been measured with a temp gun but the adaptor was warm/less than warm based on touch by hand compared to hot/extremely during idle charge without the added mobile cooling fan/raditor.
Here is the link https://www.amazon.in/dp/B08NPXWQVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Y3WECR7CR11Q4G7AZ8SM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hope it helps.
The new fans are 12V 4Pins but they are not from corsair, will they still work on the iCUE ? As you may have noticed I am not all that good at knowing what goes well with what when it comes to this stuff and from what I understood is that my motherboard (HP 8876) has a 4pin fan header so I tried to find something that fits that.
Here is a link of the fans i've ordered: https://www.amazon.nl/gp/product/B07HN199YJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Again thank you for taking the time to reply!
Thermalright makes a similar that's much cheaper, I've had very good luck with their coolers.
You're gonna run into the issue that the Hana motherboard posts are LGA1151 layout (Intel) and not AM4. I'm not sure if you need to adjust the spacing for a Intel setup to sit right on the 5700X, someone here will know that but I suggest you not just plow into it without some research. I vaguely remember reading use the LGA bracket with the AM4 spacers, but don't trust me on that.
Add a top 120mm, but do NOT get a PWM fan. The BIOS with it's crappy fan ramp will run it at 500rpm until your CPU hits 90C. Get a quiet 1300rpm quiet fan that runs constantly. There's no need to replace the 92mm back fan, it's extremely powerful it just doesn't spin up for the same reason. There's no way around it unless you hack it for manual control, that particular fan is deafening if you just connect 12V to it, and the system will complain if that particular fan is missing (it doesn't mind the front fan not being visible in the 30L).
You can also add bottom 120mm next to the powersupply, same criteria as the top because in the 30L it's a 3200rpm fan that never exceeds 500rpm due to motherboard PWM.
On your hard drive you will see two connectors, on is the sata power and the other is sata data. The power cable will the longer one of the two, you can get that cable from your power supply. If you are using the oem psu then it comes with two. For your data cable, unless you ordered your omen with an HDD already, it will not be provided, you will have to buy one from the internet. Here is one that would work from amazon. The data cable will be plugged from your HDD into your pc with the same looking connection that you see on the hard drive.
I swore there was an issue with specific memory modules and that the HP mobo wouldnt support just anything. I own this very same model and used G. Skill Ripjaws and worked fine
u/Acheron_XIII, this is the more likely fix. It's wouldn't be the first time HP cut it too close with the PSU for what the hardware required.
There are also a lot of great deals on PSUs now due to Black Friday, too. This 850W PSU from Asus would be a much cheaper fix to try first at just $140 right now, instead of a $700+ GPU replacement.
Of course disregard if you're on a 850W or higher PSU in your build already.
This is without a doubt for am4 with that clip. The issue is that they are missing the plastic mounting tabs (2) that mount using those 4 screws.
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I had 2 4pins to choose from, one controls the top bracketed fan that was attached to the radiator - I kept that one as is(labeled LCS FAN), I just removed the radiator and re-bracketed the fan.
The other 4pin closest to the CPU(labeled LC PUMP on mobo but is in the spot where a 4pin cpu fan connector normally is, left of RAM slots) is the one I plugged the noctua air cooler into.
Also anyone else with a 30L: get the 110mm versions of w/e cooler you swap to. I am pressed up pretty close to the ram and heatsinks surrounding the cpu, that aspect was kinda surprising to me.
I am running at 3666 on a mix of Hyper X stick (whatever came from the factory, 2x8 GB sticks) and another 2x8 GB sticks of these,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097HP4VCT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
How far away from your WAP are you? Is it the same speed on a hardline? You can replace, you may need to reinstall certain drivers for it, you could try this: Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200 ax 2×2 + Bluetooth 5.0 MU-MIMO M.2 2230 non-vPro , HP sells these and it's HP part number is L35282-005. I'm not sure if there's anything driver wise modified for HP units from the standard Intel AX200 2x2, but they're on amazon too, just not the "HP" one.
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https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wi-Fi-Gig-Desktop-AX200-NGWG-NV/dp/B085M7VPDP
This powerbank, it has 60w output. With all mesures mentioned above, I get 3h of work. There is very small amount of rooms in my campus, which have sockets. So I would be happy, if I could extend this time from 3h to 8h with the powerbank 4 times bigger, than the laptop battery.
Hi! Check out this video, it’s the method you describe and I did the same with my 30L to install the ML120L https://youtu.be/QXvU18k10io
He used M3 screws, here’s the link to the ones he recommended Eastbuy Water Cooling Screw -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088WY8G61?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I guess you can buy similar M3 screws but make sure to watch the video, he trims them down to a certain length.
I bought a 40L with HyperX memory and through this sub discovered HyperX is now Kingston. I bought this RAM and it worked in my machine. I had to load the standard setting in BIOS when I got the RAM and once I did, then the machine recognized the RAM and I was able to set an XMP profile to run it at 3733.
I Frankensteined the springs from these Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F86LKV4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (which would be perfect if the picture wasn't wrong)
Then bought these screws. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076LMXW17?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And some simple M3 size washers.
Follow Noctua installation instructions included with part and online or there are a few good videos online. Essentially install is the exact same as usual but Instead of removing the back plate, you put the spacers and noctua mount over the stock omen cpu bracket and use the custom screws instead of included nuts. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need pics.
I Frankensteined the springs from these Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F86LKV4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (which would be perfect if the picture wasn't wrong)
Then bought these screws. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076LMXW17?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And some simple M3 size washers.
Follow Noctua installation instructions included with part and online or there are a few good videos online. Essentially install is the exact same as usual but Instead of removing the back plate, you put the spacers and noctua mount over the stock omen cpu bracket and use the custom screws instead of included nuts. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need pics.
The exact one I have doesn't seem to be available anymore, but this looks virtually identical: https://www.amazon.com/AICHESON-Cooling-Notebook-MacBook-Computer/dp/B07G1Z8DSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=7F2JQ4T1LAXS&keywords=laptop%2Bcooling%2Bpad&qid=1664119562&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjY2IiwicXNhIjoiNS40MCIsInFzcCI6IjUuMTUifQ%3D%3D&sp...
HyperX memory is now Kingston. I bough Kingston's Fury 3733 RAM for my 40l.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097K2QNKN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-4000D-Airflow-Tempered-Mid-Tower/dp/B08C7BGV3D?th=1
Has increased in price a bit. I think I got it for 90$ but one if the best cases you can get for the money.
I had made a similar post about my Omen 40L and was given the advice of getting this panel to help https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWCQAWN/
You can see the whole response I got from someone under the post I made but hope it helps out:)
So, I tried this RAM from Amazon and it doesn't seem like it is compatible with the motherboard?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097HNYMYR?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I tried adding this RAM into the two open slots and then just replacing the stock RAM with the new RAM and in both cases the pc is just in a reboot cycle. Can anyone explain why? I am fine to replace the stock RAM altogether, but I would like to understand why this RAM doesn't work at all so I don't repeat the same issue. Thanks!
So, I tried this RAM from Amazon and it doesn't seem like it is compatible with the motherboard?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097HNYMYR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I tried adding this RAM into the two open slots and then just replacing the stock RAM with the new RAM and in both cases the pc is just in a reboot cycle. Can anyone explain why? I am fine to replace the stock RAM altogether, but I would like to understand why this RAM doesn't work at all so I don't repeat the same issue. Thanks!
Hyper X is now Kingston Fury.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097HNYMYR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got this kit and plugged it directly in to the open 2 ram slots on my 30L.
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Also, this is kind of an old news subject. If you have your machine fully updated, it supports all ram now.
I removed the glass side panel on my 30L and replaced it with mesh siding from Amazon. You can also look into under-volting your CPU and GPU which might help.
90s is scary.... consider changing the cooler:
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also, you can tinker with the GPU to drop temps... the HP gpu's do run hot...
For an easy installation you can buy an PCIe M.2 NVME adapter so you can use your nvme ssd from an pcie x16/x8/x4 free slot. I will do this for my Omen 25L, i have one pcie x4 free slot
"I don't know if I can have two SSD sticks of different sizes (like a 256GB and 1TB) installed at once."
You're right, it doesn't matter. You can have SSDs of different sizes. This isn't RAM where you need the sticks to match. However, before buying a second drive, make sure you know where the second slot is, sometimes the first slot is easy to get to, but the second is on the other side of the motherboard and requires you to disassemble(I don't know without seeing more photos of the inside of your laptop).
I recommend buying 1TB SSD to replace your current 256. However once you replace it, you will need to install windows (or whatever OS you are using). If you do not want that hassle, keep the 256 and look for the second slot and add a 1TB drive. The 256 will act as the bootable drive, while your 1TB will at as a storage drive.
I did a quick search on amazon and found this one: https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-MZ-V8V1T0B-AM-980-SSD/dp/B08V83JZH4 You can research what brand you want and the speeds, but you're looking around this price for drives.
Here is the explanation. The type of SSD you have there uses an M.2 connector. It comes in two types typically, NVMe or SATA. You can tell by the label, but you can also tell by the "key" or the plugin end of the drive. NVMe has 1 key slot, while an SATA M.2 would have 2 key slots.
The connector you have is NVMe.
np, happy to help. there's not an open controller. instead of a splitter i went with a SATA power fan hub after reading someone else recommend it.
Fans: noctua nf-12 (x2) noctua nf-a12x15 (bottom) noctua nf-a9 (rear)
you'd need to slice out some mesh on the bottom of the case for the 2nd intake there.
Awesome. That makes your life pretty easy save for the weird Omen diamond connector. I don't know why it has four cables but lists itself specifically as 5v. I can only assume that the white cable controls brightness. I would wager that you can rewire the red, green, and blue leads directly to the R, G, and B leads for a 3-pin header and have it work mostly fine.
The weirdness of that connector aside, there are tons of off-brand 3+4 pin hubs on Amazon. Even a name brand like Cooler Master only costs $22.
Since your hub determines the software you have to use, I would choose a hub based on the software. I've used Corsair and Asus in the past and both had good software (I generally swear by Asus), but others here may be more broadly knowledgeable about RGB hub management software.
All that said, I would also argue that you should raise an RMA for the hub with HP. That damned thing should work. You paid good money for it. Even if you end up buying another hub, you are owed a functioning hub from HP.
If this is the one you have, then no, it's not supported by OGH, but yes you can set the lighting from the OSD menu.
I had zero issues finding compatible ram.
Kingston FURY Beast RGB 16GB 3200MHz DDR4 CL16 Desktop Memory Single Stick KF432C16BBA/16 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097HPH7GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T6Y2KMR2SQDGYVTYJ3EP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Plug n play
If you're interested in becoming a bit of a computer tech, you can very easily remedy this problem.
I'd find videos on youtube before doing anything, with that said I would 100% recommend disassembling the PC to replace the thermal paste for the CPU and the GPU. I would 100% recommend changing every single thermal pad you see in there, and using the video guides, likely apply a few more well placed thermal pads. The paste/pads will net you a HUGE effect, likely -10c drops at max load.
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When I was still running a laptop, I used a small artic usb fan turned to blow air into the laptop where it naturally pulls air from. This is likely the least effective but one I would still recommend, almost like supercharging a car ;) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 - this is link to the one I used.
With the fan addition, I would also make sure to have your laptop lifted in the backend by something fairly small that can allow the unit to displace air better.
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Lastly, I would recommend MSI Afterburner software, with a custom fan curve to turn the fans sooner with a little more power, as well as turning down the clock speed and memory clock settings. This can have a drastic impact in the -5-10c range.
I have the same 25L as you. Your going to have to remove the motherboard if you want to upgrade your cpu cooler. Anything that fits your factory cpu cooler bracket isn’t going to perform any better than the factory cpu cooler.
I bought this cpu cooler for my 25L,
ID-COOLING IS-40X 45mm Height Low... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQV3G55?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Most tower air cpu coolers won’t fit in the case.
The lighting node core connects using an internal USB 2.0 connection.
The OMEN motherboard unfortunately doesn't have any spare USB 2.0 headers
To get around this, I recommend getting this cable which converts internal USB to external USB A. To use it, plug the 4 pin of your node core into the cable. then plug it into the normal USB ports at the back of your motherboard. In order to get the cable outside of the PC, i recommend either drilling a hole into your case or unscrewing one or the covers of a free PCIe slot https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003BCDYI4?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_A4FJR369S7S1Z67AXRDA
Hope this helps!
and how many do i need to buy of this to be safe?
thx
Wait that card needs a free usb header and I'm pretty sure omen desktops don't have that and this should work better Wi-Fi 6 (Gig+) Desktop Kit, AX200, 2230, 2x2 AX+BT, vPro® https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085M7VPDP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_22Y45ZEZQS0W18S36PPK
Intel just makes the wifi adapter. the cpu doesn't matter and I think a wifi adapter could work too something like a pcie based one as the desktop omens have a extra pcie 8x slot which is perfect for a wifi card like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089FCX3C3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_P41RRFR3Y2SDADQDK33F
I had purchased 2 x Kingston FURY Beast 16GB (2x8GB) 3200MHz DDR4 CL16 from Amazon (32GB total) -https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B097K2WBL3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and put them in my PC today and it works great, just make sure your BIOS is up to date and have the XMP Profile 1 selected in the BIOS settings (it goes to default when you swap out the sticks).
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition RGB CPU Air Cooler, SF120R RGB Fan, Anodized Gun-Metal Black, Brushed Nickel Fins, 4 Copper Direct Contact Heat Pipes for AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1151 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X1JJ00ECT06FTTVVKPW2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would get this.
This is what I put on my 30L runs like a champ
I'm not sure actually. They would look like these:
Noctua NA-SYC1 chromax.black, 4 Pin Y-Cables for PC Fans (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B076542HBN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_AQEZ1NKSP9AFYJT4VPXE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you do end up needing to buy then I would recommend those ones above, they're what I use.
Considering that it looks like you have 3 separately wired front fans you might have a splitter or two! You'll just have to dig around and look.
The loud fan is the one on the radiator. Its because it's crazy fast (because the 30l really needs a bigger radiator). I replaced it with a slightly slower, much quieter (but just as effective so far as I can tell) Noctua 120mm.
I also put a fan in the bottom of the case - a 120mm there as well. The end result is a much quieter computer that stays within the temp envelope.
So, as I see it you have a few options.
I don't know the specifications, I have a 3070 TI and it's pretty huge.
The closest thing I could find was here: https://www.amazon.com/HP-GeForce-3080-Optimized-Allyflex/dp/B09FNX3QF8
Product Dimensions: 16 x 9.2 x 3.5 inches
Lots of people use the 4000 but I went with THIS ONE. I needed the smaller footprint for my work station. Either one is a great choice and works WAY better than the stock box.
Hey I just upgraded my ram In my 30L I’ll post the link to what I used.
I had to use XMP profile 1 in bios and Ryzen master to set the timings, also the stock ram had terrible timings so I wouldn’t bother keeping it in and just using new sticks.
Kingston Fury Beast RGB 16GB (2x8GB) 3200MHz DDR4 CL16 Desktop Memory Kit of 2 KF432C16BBAK2/16 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097HNYMYR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RFHEDN2K1BE88TFW8Q02
So I think you have one stick of 8gb 2666mhz ram and I think this is it based on pictures and specs HyperX Fury 8GB 2666MHz DDR4 CL16 DIMM 1Rx8 Black XMP Desktop Memory Single Stick HX426C16FB3/8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WD5VKTS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_0005G6HF42SR1CJQNABZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I added these. Behind the rear controller is an ARGB controller. I put a black Noctua in the third spot on the front since you can't see the RGB in the front of the third fan (Omen Logo is there). I put two of the fans below in the top and replaced the rear case fan with the third.
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On the bottom you can fit a 120mm and a 80mm. If you put both of them they will wedge together and not move at all. I swapped my back fan for this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZHF2BPB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes I use this Xbox controller and it works really well:
Check this out on Amazon Microsoft Xbox Wireless Controller + Wireless Adapter for Windows 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078T3R8YS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_glt_i_6JF2T9RZWYGDCY1V3R4Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It connects via Bluetooth too if you have it, which your Omen should
I wanted to upgrade to 32GB as well. After reading posts here, I realized mixing different brands of RAM with the HP OEM RAM doesn't work well in the Omen desktops, so decided to just get 32GB new. I ended up getting this Kingston kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097HNF3ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I set the XMP BIOS profile to 3200MHz and they work almost perfectly. The only thing that doesn't work is controlling the RAM RGB with the Omen Gaming Hub, but you can control that using Kingston's Fury app.
Then I sold my 2 x 8GB OEM sticks on eBay for what I paid for the 32GB kit - doubled my RAM for essentially free.
I just got the 40L AMD Ryzen from Best Buy GT21-0184 Even though someone from HP said right on the product page the RAM is RGB and their own hp.com product page says RGB ram only the cooler and GPU came with lighting. Contacting HP support they said contact best buy lol. Anyway I want to put 32GB in it anyway I hear conflicting information around can I just swap it out with this Kingston 32GB 3733 ram https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-3733MHz-Desktop-KF437C19BBAK2-16/dp/B097K2QNKN?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp&th=1
Chassis Fan Hub CPU Cooling | 10 Port 12 V SATA to Fan-Header with 4 Pin PWM Controller | Dedicated Supply from PSU to Link Multiple Points https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q367BXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_JY4PF5MRKXXPPQY851K3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Like this for $10, not bad. Thanks.
Were you experiencing over heat crashes that made you do this or just concerned about levels?
My gpu is cutting out and I’m gonna send the pc to HP, presumably for another one. Just worried they’ll send me back one with the same issue because the issue is actually bad airflow not a bad card. I like having the extra resell value of non LHR rn
Congrats as well.
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Yeah I hear you on the BIOS but RAM speeds really have diminishing gaming impacts.
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Thanks for the note about lastpass - I missed that one. I did also find ExpressVPN and torched that.
Shoot I can't post a pic but idk how else to explain it lol right above the hard drive bays I mounted a fan directly across from the stock 92mm
ARCTIC Case Fan Hub - 10-fold PWM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0887VG14J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Nope they run just like the stock ones the hub comes with a 4pin connector to grab the speeds they need to run from the MOBO
ARCTIC Case Fan Hub - 10-fold PWM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0887VG14J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yea that's what I've been doing today to get those temps I mentioned is undervolting the CPU via the Omen app. I've heard you can control the fan speeds better too with another app, but haven't figured that out yet. From what I'm reading, fans will help the GPU temps, whereas a better liquid aio cooler and case helps the CPU temps?
For the RAM I went with these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097HNF3ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_9AECYB2J716RWZM0DWX3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Plug and play and easy to install with working RGB with the stock motherboard
So this will work? Sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure everything is set before I start putting stuff together
This was the fan I was originally looking at.
I guess it's a competition of noise vs performance. In that case, do you notice the heavier fans being a still significant difference between the stock AIO fan? It's hard to get DB levels on them since diff companies measure noise in different ways.
This is the exact fan i used for the aio radiator
Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000 PWM, Heavy Duty Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 2000 RPM (120mm, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCR5BA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_R3KRTPS07ZRCV3HC8W3N
It has less blades these are better to use as exhaust fans because they do a better job at pushing air out through resistance and the create better static pressure in your case the fan that is stock with the radiator is a 2000rpm coolermaster They push alot of air but they are better suited for intake fans it is also extremely loud. Also when replacing the the 92mm fan get the one with less blades as well ill link that one as well
Noctua NF-A9 PWM chromax.Black.swap, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (92mm, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZHF2BPB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_8B6PJR2K04JK6GH0FEJY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Something like this Mid range MSI B550. Not the worst, definitely not the best.
It will play the games you mention, the first thing I would do is spend $55 to add another stick of RAM and upgrade to 16GB of that 2666mhz RAM. Here's the matching stick.
I recently picked up a 30L GT13-1154a with a Ryzen 7 5800X and an RTX 3080. Initial CPU temps were up to 100C in prime95. Very bad. I immediately went into OMEN Gaming Hub and dropped voltage to 1.125V and max frequency to 4400MHz (173x) and now I see max temps around 75-80C in prime95.
I then bought a Noctua Chromax 92mm rear fan replacement and a 120mm AIO replacement fan. I saw ZERO improvement in noise / temps on the GPU / CPU. Once I saw the lack of improvement I also threw the 120mm Chromax into the bottom of the case and also saw no temp improvement. I was not expecting these results, but I guess I am saving $45. Based on some of the responses here I can only guess that they recently upgraded the AIO fan. My system is running fairly quiet. I'm actually pretty impressed for the price and config. Existing config CPU and GPU temps are both 75-80C and it is not loud, but not silent (I previously build with Fractal Define cases and installed extra sound foam and ran 140mm fans under 800RPM, so to me, that is silent). This 30L is completely acceptable. If I do anything in future it will be modifying the drive cage in some way to add a 120mm intake fan in the upper front.
TL;DR - 30L owners should undervolt that Ryzen ASAP. 1.08 - 1.25v reduces temps dramatically. Don't really need new fans at least on late 2021/2022 AIO builds.
My experience is that you either need to add RAM that matches that same exact model number (same that I have - it's 3700MHz RAM that my mobo runs at 3200) or completely replace it with other RAM. After reading some posts here, I bought this 32GB kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097HNF3ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1).
I tried adding it with the HP37D4U1S8ME-8XR sticks for a total of 48GB, and things did not behave well. I tried forcing the 3200 XMP profile in Advanced BIOS (mash Ctrl-F10 at power up), but Windows crashed a few times. Without forcing the XMP profile, all of the RAM reported as running at 2400 - and still crashed.
I decided to just leave the new 32GB RAM in, which are running at 3200MHz successfully now. I'll sell the original two 8GB HP sticks on eBay, and those proceeds will probably pay for the cost of the new 32GB RAM.
One downside is that the HP Omen app can no longer control RGB of those 32GB sticks, which it can with the OEM sticks. Fine with me - my guess is there's an app that can control that if desired. I don't care enough right now to search for it.
You'll find HP37D4U1S8ME-8XR sticks for sale/auction on eBay, but they're expensive. I've seen one 8GB stick sell for $85 and a kit of two went for $168!! Not worth that cost for the minor benefit for my needs. My guess is post-holiday demand is driving that. Perhaps later in the year those prices will drop some.
MSI Z590M Gaming Edge Wifi motherboard:
What's your current R23 score just wondering?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09GVHQ5D9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's the cooling pad I use, I'm not in love with it, but it works well. The fan curve I just based on where it makes the least amount of noise per what the cooling pad can compensate for. The computer has great thermals, so just put it on manual. An example is at 65c it's at 34% fan power. 75c 45% 80c 55%. 85c 67%. 90c 83%. When I game I put the cooling pad on mode 4 with just the three big fans on. It's cool and runs decently quiet.
I'm not sure if the version with omen support is stable released yet, but openrgb supports the 30L and maybe the 25L. When I added 30L support I did not have a 25L to test on. It also supports a lot of other devices. You can download a build from the project gitlab that will work.
You can check out the project here: https://openrgb.org/
You can check to see if it is thermal throttling by using an app like HWiNFO (https://www.hwinfo.com). I'd do that first to see if that's the issue. Do you have the liquid cooler or a fan on the CPU? If you have the liquid cooler, how loud does the fan get when you are playing?
AC Infinity AIRCOM S7, Quiet Cooling Fan System 12" Top-Exhaust for Receivers, Amps, DVR, AV Cabinet Components https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVW4SLP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0K9R8M2A9GET33E3111X
I'm wondering if adding an exhaust like this would help any, the dimensions seem to be the size of the top vent of the 30l omen
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Is this the same stuff that is installed?
It’s definitely the radiator fan I went with a Noctua NF-FP-12 pwm 3000 rpm heavy duty fan. Lots quieter and the same or better cooling.
Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM, Heavy Duty Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 3000 RPM (120mm, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRATC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XMED7H0M6WVQ5VK6FM4N
Lots of reviews for that set not running at rated speed.
You'll only get 2933 with that laptop, and it needs to be JEDEC rated since there isn't a way to enable XMP.
These seem to be well rated and reviews are indicating they run at speed without XMP. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LQG2SDS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CMG6D64ZGVAN4NE6M5JC
I'm using these and they work great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BYJNXM4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_V3SGQDKG7DTT9N3HZJS6
I don't see a 16GB kit listed though.
It’s not unlocked which is fine, from what I looked up the two card that I wanna upgrade to the 10400 should be fine how it is, and now b560 board do you mean something like this?
Amazon. Didn't run at 3200 at first but updated BIOS and everything worked perfect after that.
HyperX Fury 8GB 3200MHz DDR4 CL16 DIMM (Kit of 2) Black XMP Desktop Memory HX432C16FB3K2/8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCQRVDH/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XRX1D26PEQYP1GBV8GNE
I’ve built my own PC before. So was able to deal with problems along the way:
Corsair 4000D Airflow Tempered Glass Mid-Tower ATX PC Case - Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08C7BGV3D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T1KEQF4H11S8HG26F7FR
PB - Power Button
Interesting, I am still a bit scared of under/overclocking my cpu and gpu but would like to learn more if you have any recommendations.
For the top right fan I mounted to the hard drive case I used some super duty mounting tap, stuff is crazy good. I believe I linked it above but here it is again. mounting tape I also used this to mount the ARGB halo to the AIO fan as well as for the front intake fan due to not having long enough screws.
Sound wise I haven’t noticed an difference at all. Plus thats with the bottom case fan and the one mounted on the hard drive slot running at constant fully speed because of the controller I used, ends up being pretty nice because you will always have one intake fan running and an exhaust/internal air movement fan running . Have reduced temps overall by 10-15 degrees on both gpu and cpu. I used this crazy sticky mounting tape to mount the bottom case fan as well as the one on the hard drive case. mounting tape
Much appreciated! I assume you are referring to the gpu cooler under the gpu. Actually its not mounted in the 2nd pcie slot, it is attached to the side of the port covers. Mounts to the same screws that hold them in. Gpu Cooler
Here is a link to it - 3 fan Gpu cooler
Everything seems to have worked out, got most all the parts in today and got them installed, still waiting on an rgb fan halo that I’ll be putting in tomorrow. Really liking the new setup, running super cool as well!
The brand is ID cooling. Its a 92mm slim fan that will plug into your 4 pin on the mobo or into a splitter. Then has another plug for the 3 pin argb. Here is the link to the one I used. 92mm argb fan I believe I also found one on Amazon branded by scythe. I used a sata to 3 pin argb controller with a remote to control the lighting. ARGB controller
The brand is ID cooling. Its a 92mm slim fan that will plug into your 4 pin on the mobo or into a splitter. Then has another plug for the 3 pin argb. Here is the link to the one I used. 92mm argb fan I believe I also found one on Amazon branded by scythe. I used a sata to 3 pin argb controller with a remote to control the lighting. ARGB controller
I had to replace 2 sticks that came with HP 30L, so same 4 type of sticks, to get 3200.
So 4 of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097HNF3ZQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I did get the XMP profiles to show up with mixed ram, 2 sticks original and 2 sticks 3rd party, had to upgrade bios, but never showed above 2400 in task manager performance, and then it started rebooting and stopped booting until reverting bios. Perhaps custom might have resolved but not worth my time to learn or stress waiting for reboots.
Okay on the suggestion of another redditor I tried something else - I bought this header to usb2 adaptor, and used it to connect the commander core to one of the rear external USB ports. It works like a charm! Much easier than buying a new motherboard.
https://www.amazon.de/AKasa-Externes-Internes-USB-Kabel/dp/B003BCDYI4
The one I bought was a DisplayPort switch so not technically the same but should have the same concept but I found one with good reviews as an hdmi switcher! If you type in hdmi switcher in Amazon you can find a bunch of options, though here is a brand I know that works UGREEN HDMI Switch 3 in 1 Out 4K HDMI Switcher Splitter, HDMI Switch Box Hub with Remote Supports 4K 30Hz HD 3D 1080P, Monitor Switch Compatible with Apple TV PS5 PS4 Xbox Fire Stick Blu-Ray Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0865JJLHD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_51SVY6MVR1M2N0J5WNM9
It's not that big of a deal if you do not know what is what. Just unplug something and plug it back in directly. Theres also enough tutorials on youtube that guide you step-by-step through the troubleshooting process.
There might also be some unplugged stuff because some powersupplies come with more cables than necessary, and with non-modular (modular powersupplies are powersupplies in which you can plug the cables in and out of the powersupply) there might be a few loose cables, which isn't a problem.
Another thing I read in the replies are the temps. Use a program like HWiNFO (Download) to check the temperatures of the components. A think that might be causing overheating is a bit of packaging stuck in the case or the cpu/gpu fans not working/connected properly.
Would you mind posting an image of the inside of your pc? I'll see if I can find something.
I have the same but with the 3070. I game the shit out of mine and have had zero thermal issues running as is out of the box.
One thing you should for sure do is stop using the Omen gaming hub thermal monitors. Get a free per-core monitor like this one. The Omen one just grabs the warmest core and uses that as the temp for everything. It gives at best an inaccurate picture of the actual temps and makes you think the entire box is running as hot as that one core that's doing work. Trust me, run that program and compare the difference to the Omen one. You'll see there is way less to worry about than you thought.
I bought these two sticks of RAM yesterday, it had a $10 coupon and made it $60 shipped. I received them same day from Amazon and installed them last night. The NZXT pump tubing interferes with dimm slot #1, but I squeezed it in and xmp profiles match and my PC now has 32gb of 3200mhz ram.
Limited-time deal: Crucial Ballistix 3200 MHz DDR4 DRAM Desktop Gaming Memory Kit 16GB (8GBx2) CL16 BL2K8G32C16U4B (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083TRRT16/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_ZWQC1CRDG7ND67757JWD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'll be going with these one probably. they are cl22 though
As far as I'm aware, he could just buy this one stick and it should work with the other one. https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-DDR4-Laptop-Memory-CT8G4SFRA32A/dp/B08C4Z69LN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=crucial%2Bram%2Bcl22%2B8gb%2Bddr4%2B3200mhz&qid=1637531475&s=electronics&sr=1-3&th=1
Micro-ATX with mesh instead of glass on the front. This is what i bought
Apevia PRODIGY-BK Micro-ATX Gaming Case with 1 x Tempered Glass Panel, Top USB3.0/USB2.0/Audio Ports, 3 x RGB Fans, Black Frame https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DP7RGJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_F2VNV1MZ131RAR5Y1F4V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have a 30L and swapped out the stock fan for a CoolerMaster ML120L V2 Liquid Cooler
Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML120L RGB V2, Close-Loop AIO CPU Liquid Cooler, 120 Radiator, SickleFlow 120mm, RGB Lighting, 3rd Gen Dual Chamber Pump for AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1200/1151 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086C1PK2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DFQW99YAWVGF4RVF8E72
What’s great about this AIO is that you can install it without removing the current bracket from the motherboard, here is a guide I used to do it: https://youtu.be/QXvU18k10io