Why is your expansion tank after your pump?
You have now potentially created a whole bunch of issues related to poor flow and rooms close to the boiler overheating while rooms far from the boiler under heating assuming they are in series.
Get a hold of this book and read it before you subject another family to your sub par install.
We use roof supports called Dura-Blok (I'm sure there are a number of blocks like these). They are rubber blocks with a piece of unistrut on top. Super easy to work with and looks nice.
You can buy 8 point sockets that fit.
I didn't realize that's what you were trying to do. That collar isn't really long enough to do what you're trying to do properly. You're better off buying a new stick-on collar with a damper already installed.
They are extremely easy to install. Just measure the size of the hole (should be something like 4 or 6 inches). Peel off the old collar. you may need to use something like a joint compound scraper to pry the glue off. Then just stick on the new collar and pull the flex back on.
These have been a fucking game changer fits a drill and is super fast. They are in 1/16" sizes so they fit damn near every thing even those diakin minis with the metric Allen holes. Also don't have to worry about those dumb valves you can't get the ratchet all the way into.
I got a drill powered pump. Used it the other day in an attic with a filled pan. Otherside of the pump was dumping into the condensate trap. Was so easy
ECO-FLO PRODUCTS INCORPORATED SUP54, N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIRSW0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QNTN9QBXTCX704W7XK1G
I don’t find brightness to be helpful past a certain point. My go-to is a cheap rechargeable headlamp. The low setting is bright enough for me to work with and lasts 24 hours. The high setting only lasts 4 hours, so if your eyes aren’t as great you’ll need something with a bigger battery life.
This. It generates the pressure AND tests the switch precisely.
Also on Amazon, for a little less...
Servicing control system for buildings. I would look up Automated Controls, Johnson Controls, or Dynaelectric or your local building automation system contractors.
Basically you learn how to connect the wires of the HVAC system, sensors, set up set point, set up Trends, doing tests, etc.
Example: Senior Level Controls Technician http://www.indeed.com/viewjob?from=appshareios&jk=854d926a55ca012d
I would look up ur goal job and if it appeals to you where you want to be.
Do you live near your potential customers? If so, do an introduction on nextdoor.com. People like to use contractors that live in the community. If you do decent work, you will get a lot of referrals...
My area is a mix of commercial & resi so we see contractors advertising for both.
IAQ specialist and Hvac tech. Research is paramount for your particular situation, as such I recommend removing the eac and replacing it with a regular box filter, most eac units support removal of the cell, and turning it off electrically so that a regular 4-5 inch filter can fit in the space.
Personal recommendation is to add a UV that does not produce ozone, this immediately disqualifies most UV lights on the market. My preferred go to would be the APCO UV system. Have it myself, install it regularly, does not produce ozone as the bulb is a 2 layer. The Halo and other lights produce ozone over the EPA standard and as such I would shy away from them.
For an APCO install you’d be looking at $1000~ Otherwise remove the eac and use a box filter you can replace every 3 months
To help you technicians out by charging by subcool or superheat, here's an app for you. Pick what refrigerant, if it's a TXV or not and if it is, punch in your outdoor dry bulb and indoor wet bulb, then punch in your pressure and line temp and ta-da, no figuring out if your charge is right. App is below
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.emerson.checkncharge&hl=en&gl=US
This one is the best bro. Fits in a pocket and can spray a pin point. Had mine for years. There is a different brand without the grip knurling, bad option, some chemicals will make it slippery.
I can't recommend this one enough!
Ps always leave it in full open position in storage to preserve rubber. It also has a lifetime warranty they will send you a new rubber if you ask.
Return it for this:
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32613-Screwdriver-Precision/dp/B07PMDR8QG
But if you already have that and were just replacing the bit... good luck.
I've had the exact same thing happen for a set of the philips/flat bits x.X
This usually pops up on /r/steampunk every so often. They say its a fake that you can buy from here:
https://www.amazon.com/Antique-Blades-Steam-Working-Vintage/dp/B07GVG46NW
Last time it was linked that while there were mechanical fans in 1845, they were usually kept to draw air out of, or push air into, mines and were much larger.
If it is a two piece motor and module, turn the power off then remove the two 1/4 screws in the back of the module, you will find a 3 pin molex plug that links the motor to the module, unplug it and ohm your motor windings. If they are good then you can order just a new module.
You can also buy an ECM motor tester on Amazon to test the module (plug the applicable plug into the low voltage section of the module and clip the leads to 24v somewhere, then turn the tester on. Remember that ECM motors have high voltage going to them at all times and are turned on and off by low voltage commands), the testers are listed below:
Then just go down there, cut it off nice and straight, and cap it off with sheet metal and screws. Then seal it with duct sealant (also known as mastic).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I7JVUO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_bVJyFbGNSHNMB
"The bigger the glob, the better the job."
If it's a vacuum leak in your car, dish soap mixed with water in a spray bottle will find it.
I use this at work. I pay for it, so I also use it when trying to find leaks in tires and the occasional rotted vacuum hose in my truck. The bubbles are more identifiable over soapy water.
Buy the paid version. It has literally every question on it. It was all In used to study when I was in school and I had no problem passing.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=appinventor.ai_matt_suigeneris.EPA608
VIM actually has a better version with 1/4 and 5/16 on the other side. They used to sell under Home Depot's brand but they were discontinued.
If you turn the fan switch to On from AUTO does the fan run? If so you have 24 volts control voltage present which is good news, is the gas valve getting the 24 volt signal? if not why? in most cases your stat will be bad you can bypass the stat to test it either at the unit or at the stat, the stat might be best to see if the wiring is affecting it as well, Red to White is heat.
I don't know where that answer came from. I sized 225,000 btu at somewhere close to 140 square inches yesterday
This is definitely the right sub! The other one is for homeowners and whatnot to ask questions.
I recommend this app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.afterhoursds.practice608
Also, if you search this subreddit for 608 test you'll find a bunch of other good resources too.
This is the book I learned from: http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/modern-refrigeration-and-air-conditioning-a-d-althouse/1117354065?ean=9781619601994. It covers everything from electric theory all the way through refrigeration and HVAC. It will teach you how the systems work very well, but the catch is that it doesn't really go over testing requirements for EPA 608. But you can find plenty of study guides that will teach you everything you need to know for that.
Keep in mind that a furnace in the attic cannot have a humidifier.
The steep roof makes it easier for you to work in the attic. It's hard to tell what your floor is made from. If it is plywood, you could dig out the nails and reuse it upside down to salvage it. An attic space does not need a floor all the way to the rafters.
As you go. you should take the time to caulk every penetration into the attic including wires and vent pipes where they pass through the ceiling.
I had to replace all my sheathing. I dug out the nails with a cat's paw. It takes some time.
The bad news it that you need more insulation than will fit between the ceiling joists in your area. The state of Illinois recommends R43 attic insulation and you probably can't fit more than R19 between the ceiling and the floor.
You could lay a second layer of insulation, without a vapor barrier, perpendicular to the joists and just leave yourself a 4 foot catwalk down the center of the house.
https://www.illinois.gov/KeepWarm/Documents/insulation.pdf
I also did not have soffit vents. I extended the roof a few inches to have a soffit vent. I too have a "window" at each end of the house. I replaced the glass with louvers and left the screens in place, so it looks like a window from the outside. I have a whole house fan hinge mounted behind one window and use it occasionally if the temperature is right. I can swing it away to clean the screen and change the belt.
If you are having lots of brands in your mind, then its better to go through the specifications of trusted brands. I have found something helpful to choose the right brand for you: Read more at: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/air-conditioners/buying-guide http://www.toptenreviews.com/home/hvac/best-wall-air-conditioners/
I hope these tutorials will help you.
You need multiple independent thermostats connected together for this to work, not a single Ecobee.
Are you looking for an easy commercial solution or comfortable tinkering a bit? You might look into using something like Home Assistant
For the mini splits.. you should probably stick with their system and see if there is a module to network it (via WiFi / IR etc)
For the radiant heat, you might be able to use an Ecobee.
I like the ACCA slide rules. It’s pretty sturdy and fits easily into a clipboard or homemade organizer in your truck
Duct Calculation Slide Rule https://www.amazon.com/dp/1892765144/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JD0DQNBF9GV3TJHJGPRP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use a 25 piece set from Amazon that the probe tips screw on and off. The small almost needle point tips fit great for those plugs. multi-meter test probes.
ECO-FLO PRODUCTS INCORPORATED SUP54, N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIRSW0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_086DFZD3RXBJSCVN9EDR
Best thing Ive purchased in a little while. Even helps clear the clog too. I was at a house with the pan full of water. Put the outlet hose into the condensate that was still clogged and started pumping. It pushed through the clog and I was able to pump out with my battery drill
Okay so main thing you want is get an impact/ drill with an Dewalt XR battery. More than likely a company will provide power tools to you though. The smaller batteries will wear out fast and you’ll constantly be charging them.
Buy all Klein hand tools. Malco is king for sheet metal other than snips, get Midwest snips if possible. After a while upgrade to a fluke multimeter and use that Uei as a backup, if you get rid of it you’ll lose the fluke the first day.
Klein makes a 18 in 1 HVAC screwdriver which is handy. Get a gerber or leather man aswell.
Lastly I’ll advise you get one of the Klein electrical detection pen things. It’s saved me from getting zapped when switches have crumbled and no longer work.
Klein Tools NCVT-2 Voltage Tester, Non-Contact Dual Range Voltage Tester Pen for Standard and Low Voltage, with 3 m Drop Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BQ46SQZGSN654X2N2SMQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For the future: Get a magnet on a little telescoping wand.
I forget offhand if it's the 6 or the 8 but this bit by Klein works perfectly for unlocking these caps.
This
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HNYBP5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_S5VAQ3RPA2KCYWREMHWJ
Plus this 👇 and a few extra insert packs
Should definitely help to keep you from roasting to death up there. Just keep the packs in rotation, & keep quite a few on hand.
Modern problems require modern solutions 👉😎👉
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0132319705/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_8A91HVXANSJ75G6Z8RRR
Not in PDF but I used this to study for ICE exams at end of my course.
Passed core of ICE and all 5 specialties.
ICE test is basically a shorter and slightly less difficult version of NATE (test is still administered by NATE) exams.
How are you liking that dewalt tool bag? I currently have this one but I just bought yours to use as my primary service tool bag.
How long have you had it and do you recommend it?
Yes. Other bits will strip out after a while. I've never had a malco strip out on me. Back when I did install and construction after a while of going through Dewalt, Milwaukee, and other random brands I bought this malco kit. I used the short one for like 2 years solid and the long one I've been using for over 5 years now. The reversible 1/4-5/16 is nice but it seems more for service and the magnet breaks
Good little inexpensive all-purpose meter that can troubleshoot most things.
Give these a try. I do commercial HVAC and I wear these everyday I have a pair for each day of the week. The pants have knee insert pockets and you barely notice the knee pads when walking or not using them.
Caterpillar Men's Trademark Pant Regular Big Tall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ED8MGIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_WIHeGbZF165F4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Caterpillar Men's Knee Pads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00789W45K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_pJHeGbCPNM6ST?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For a couple years I have been using the evaporative type of humidifier that sits in the room - no white dust, and it's less likely to accidentally bump up the humidity so high that mold starts. You have to use the biocide when you fill it though (like here's one https://www.amazon.com/Essick-Air-1970-2-Humidifier-Bacteriostatic/dp/B07GXBTH82)
I think if I was going to put one in the HVAC itself I'd look at the steam type though.
Yes, judging a book by the cover is still a thing, you may have proved to your boss' that you are worth your salt but some strangers will still have bad first impressions.
Many years ago (decades) we had to keep company shirts on had for temps or new hires because for some odd reason wearing a t-shirt with a pot leaf never crossed their mind as being inappropriate to the company image.
I worked in food plants for much of my career, any piercings or jewelry (wedding band) that could not be removed had to be covered in a bandaid. Not just any bandaid but rather one that was a fluorescing purple and also metal impregnated so x-ray machines and metal detectors could pick them up.
Take all that with a grain of sand and look up flesh-colored ring gauge covers;
https://www.amazon.com/Colored-Hiding-Retainer-Silicone-Gauges/dp/B07C1YWT2J
i spend the majority of my day on my phone if any tech was not using his phone i would be worried, parts manuals, ordering parts, technical support, are all done from your phone online.
find a good company who can cut you loose to go learn and work. try any large company who works with supermarkets and check your local union.
if you suck at the mechanical side like turning wrench's, get a hobby that incorporates tools and work on those skills on the side. mine has been renovating a house.
also use r/refrigeration as this is more for household hvac techs.
https://www.amazon.ca/Commercial-Refrigeration-Air-Conditioning-Technicians/dp/1428335269that book should live in your van, look at it often. its amazing and can answer most refrigeration based questions simply.
then get good at controls and electrical as its a large part of the work, use a meter, read schematics, learn what each control does.
You need a felt filter too.
Here is the filter housing and felt filter:
https://www.amazon.com/Westwood-F25-Efficiency-Heating-Replacement/dp/B00XPHVVDK
The felt filter is in addition to other screens and filters.
We all use these - on our belts at all times.
They are really bright - can take abuse and batteries last a bit and are rechargeable. They can get a bit hot if used for too long without turning them off - like 15 mins.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X3L239O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
How can I tell what's compatible?
https://www.amazon.com/HC33GE236A-Upgraded-230v-Condenser-Motor/dp/B00C7QCIFA
This is the replacement part... found it for 150 from a supply house in PA, but that's not Amazon GC balance, but it's also 25% off
/u/dat_queso I took a look and I attached the pics below.. and I've order this one off Amazon. Can you tell me if this looks like I ordered the correct one?
Thanks for the confirmation. Looking closely I dont see any cracks. I do see a bit of residue on the very end, but looks very uniform. Anyway--no continuity must mean its broken somewhere along there...
Now the second part about replacing it: How 'sensitive' are these to voltage specs? The one that is in there (the broken one) says its 95V. Lennox manual calls for 90V. Not finding many 90V on Amazon (or elsewhere). Easy to find 80V. I'm thinking about this one: https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-768A-815-Hot-Surface-Ignitor/dp/B0051VDCDU/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051VDCDU&pd_rd_r=7FS5N04Q4QZ0SAY21XVR&pd_rd_w=cGYez&pd_rd_wg=jVWZv&psc=1&refRID=7FS5N04Q4QZ0SAY21XVR
Not your exact dimensions but just wanted to share the merv8 5in thick filter my mom regularly orders from amazon thinking it might help you search one down. 20x25x5 MERV 8 Air Bear Replacement Filter (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NMK13G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qIJYfh96PVOqP
Turn off power to your outside unit via disconnent/ breaker. Open the side panel of your heat pump. If your capacitor is "swollen" its bad. pic as example : http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cd5D-WO1YgQ/Ubpcd3jX31I/AAAAAAAAAmY/kkis0i_M1tI/s1600/IMG_0269.JPG
if that is your case, purchase new from amazon or your preferred choice. Match the Uf ratings.. usually listed in the manner of "XX/Xuf"
example of a 30/5uf dual run capacitor.
If your replacing the capacitor, ensure the power is disconnected, and use a screwdriver to short all 3 terminals of old capacitor to the heat pump chassis before removing any spade terminals.
If you have a tech come out, do not expect to pay $7 for a capacitor.
Foamaster. Slightly smaller version of the NuCalgon coil gun. Half the price. Originally bought it to wash my car before I saw the NuCalgon version in RE Michel one day. Works pretty good! There's cheaper versions on Amazon. Adjustable dilution for different lighter or heavier soil buildup.
I asked a question in the sub so I thought I might try to chime in and help...
This brother (link at bottom) printer always goes on sale at office supply stores, Best Buy, and Amazon for $60. You could check it once a week. Laser printers cost $20 for toners from Monoprice.com and print about 2,500 pages. Even if it prints 1,000 pages, it’s a good deal compared to inkjet.
It’s not blazing fast printing speed but it is small!
https://www.amazon.com/Brother-HL-L2300D-Monochrome-Printer-Printing/dp/B00NQ1CLTI
heres the part on LG website but it appears to be out of stock. Here it is on Amazon and it comes with the window vent piece as well.
Disclaimer: I dont know for sure that these parts will work for the air conditioner you got. If not, theres always tape.
Disclaimer 2: This is a single hose unit. The exhaust hose sucks out a ton of cold air from in the room and spits it outside. That means warm air is infiltrating the room to make up for it. These things are way more efficient if you can get the compressor to intake outdoor air. I have some ideas on that but they make dual hose air conditioners, might want to just buy one.
Here's what I use
yup, going to HD or Lowes to get the tee tomorrow. Also plan to remove the drain caps and buying these - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BW2EXTS/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1UQW4GFX9H2UF
So the handyman said to get one of those monstrosities that are basically in hotel rooms. "PTACs".
It just so happened that when I tried to go directly to the suppliers website they had a search for authorized dealers section...And an authorized dealer is about 15 minutes away.
When I showed up to get the PTAC, the guy asked what I needed it for, and when I told him a 450 sf garage he said, "why would you get this...you should get a mini split" lol.
Coincidentally, it is the exact same unit as the link I posted (Cooper & Hunter) except 12k BTUs.
He claims they sell them to Home Depot as well.
Anyways, said the PTAC would require cutting a massive hole in the garage vs. the mini split only requiring a 3 inch hole. And it would be more energy efficient.
And to top it off. To run the monstrosity/hotel unit/PTAC required getting an electrician to run a 230 Volt line from house to garage, dig trench, etc...which just to get a dedicated plug was going to cost $1700.
So I went with the affordable / off brand mini split...But it does have decent reviews and comes with 5 year / 7 year warranty (parts / compressor).
They had the exact unit with 115V plug and 230V plug and he claims/says it would not matter and the 115V would work just fine....Hopefully it works out.
Now you gotta hope that the attic light socket is located in a place where your big fixture can turn. A couple of pull chain extensions could be helpful.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Adapter-Polarized-Workshop-54180/dp/B002DN2OIS
Now you have a project. Something like a light duty hand truck, so that it does not roll until you tip it back.
I have something similar to what is on the link. The hand truck is independent of the insulated bag and the handle telescopes down. I use 3 of them with ice for grocery shopping.
I’ve got one of these
CLC Custom Leathercraft 302 Medium Shock Absorption Kneeling Pad, 14 x 21-Inch,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UESK5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NBinFb9SQSHXK
And a set of these
Redbacks Leaf-Spring Strapped Knee Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJJBQR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vCinFbB4ESFFN
I’ll spend a ton on knee protection and comfortable foot wear since the military trashed my knees and back before even starting this trade.
Look at this sound absorbing mat:
Remove the grille we see and cut a piece of mat to block off all but 3 inches on the left side. Now do the same with the mating grille. Now sound has to make two 90 degree turns to get through which reduces the sound intensity. Put back the grilles for aesthetics.
Could try a 9 inch foam roller, which people normally use to work out knots in muscles
It's an app you can download on your phone. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dencreak.dlcalculator
Then use your line temperature and your saturation temperature and plug them into the app
Sorry I though you were talking about software side. I have a setup on my other machine that is connected to my wireless router. I can see my other machine's device through the wireless network. But it doesn't have to be a computer. I only use it for testing.
I don't see why you couldn't connect any BACnet MSTP/IP gateway to any wireless router and do the same. I may even have some contemporary controls router lying around so I will check it out. But it should work nevertheless.
Actually I released the app today you can check a full release here: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.kaleidoscope.bacnetscope
Also, it is very unlikely it is just the capacitor, for many reasons. But, I would venture to guess that your motor is on its death bed, and will need to be replaced, a new capacitor will likely do next to nothing in fixing this issue, but hey, I haven’t seen everything and I don’t know everything either. The capacitor is cheap, but as I said earlier, be ready to replace the blower motor and get another capacitor with the new motor, even if yours was new and installed a few days prior.
Yeah, what you're looking for is called a tower fan hybrid. Amazon and most major home improvement stores have them, and you're looking at between 75 and 150 for one. Quick amazon search found this Lasko 5572 Tower Heater
No, that's the stamped kind. This is the bar type.
I picked up this book on Amazon at the beginning of the year. It has one section where it's just information, then another section where it's all questions, with an answer key in the very back. For each section, it lets you know which NATE certifications the information applies to. For example, if you were only looking to get Core Service and Air Conditioning Service, you would only need to worry about sections marked as such.
I had planned to go for some NATEs this summer, but my studying flew out the window once I started working crazy overtime. Hopefully now that we're going back into maintenance season I'll find more time to open my book.
I like to test myself on the question sections and then grade myself with the answer key, and highlight the ones I got incorrect. It's a great book though. Good luck!
Streamlight 66118 Stylus Pro Black LED Pen Flashlight with Nylon Holster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015UC17E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OwGBvb0HDREN8
19 bucks on amazon
I use this one too because anything bigger and I won't keep it on me
how loud is that unit? and do you ever have to empty out the water collection?
I saw this one on amazon thats highly rated with dual hose design:
Yeah I like them like yours.
I've used this one for years... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003N9CSIW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I did make a Kydex stand for it that wraps around the bottom and top (I'll post a picture of it soon))
I put a big shoulder strap through the belt holes above the rivets so I can leave it strapped to me when working at heights on reznors and sucky high alt stuff like that.
I love my bag. And it loves me.
Plus its very very affordable.
Hilmor I cut off the floppy handle and replaced it with a wooden one.
You can still get the classic Stanley Vacuum Thermos for only $25, and the 1.1quart size is big enough for an entire pot of coffee. I picked up one a couple of years ago. I've even left in my truck overnight and the coffee was still very warm next morning.
Definitely cheaper than even one Hydro Flask, let alone 2, lol.
Won't arrive by Thursday, but maybe you could print a picture of it for the gift exchange.
https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8701250-10-Inch-Cobra-Pliers/dp/B000X4J2H0/?th=1
High Pressure Boilers https://www.amazon.com/High-Pressure-Boilers-Frederick-Steingress/dp/0826943152
Low Pressure Boilers https://www.amazon.com/Low-Pressure-Boilers-Frederick-Steingress/dp/0826943721
These are the books I used to get my license in IL. I also came from the field as well.
I'm the attic monkey in my company, I feel for ya.. I've got these I take with me for attic jobs, cover them in camping foam or a yoga mat..I know its a day late and a few 100$ short but.. https://www.amazon.com/Attic-Dek-Flooring-Installation-Organizer/dp/B07GX5CCHR?th=1
I’m going to disagree with the people saying it’s strictly your employers responsibility to train you fully.
Firstly, the fact you are asking how to improve already shows initiative, so that’s great.
Secondly, be patient. You are less then a year in the trade. Start by learning the equipment your company sells and services inside and out. Read installation manuals inside and out. Ask questions on things you don’t fully understand. Your boss will see this as being motivated to learn.
When you are confident, tell your employer you would like more opportunities working service. If your boss is a decent business man, and sees you improving, he will see value in training you for service.
I would recommend owning the most recent volume of “Modern Refrigeration and Air Conditioning”. That book was my bible during my apprenticeship.
I have done some steam. For anyone I'd recommend
https://www.amazon.com/Lost-Art-Steam-Heating/dp/0996477241
I'm seeing a very short header off the top.
Practical Math Success in 20... https://www.amazon.com/dp/157685891X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That's the math book. I didn't find that the mechanical book I ordered helped. I got more out of practice tests online.
The foil in the Home Depot link does not conduct much heat in the horizontal plane. It is a reflector. You are thinking of of the heavier aluminum that the PEX is clipped into.
A belt-and-suspenders installation would have both.
Stubby 6 in 1
I keep this in my side pants pocket throughout the day along with a few other basics (jumpers, razor knife, tstat screwdriver) and it always comes in clutch. Even if I don't have my drill/tool bag on my person I can usually drive any 1/4in, 5/16, philips or flathead screws.
Every bosch core bit I have uses a pilot like this https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HC88-Centering-SDS-max-Rotary/dp/B000WAAP58/ref=asc_df_B000WAAP58/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598360901654&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11052995945392801428&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&h...
Milwaukee and dewalt have threaded bits like this https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW5907-Centering-Core-Body/dp/B00004RHFM/ref=asc_df_B00004RHFM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11052995945392801428&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvd...
I cannot verify if the threads are the same.
Based on the picture you sent, I have a hard time believing the hole is threaded.
If you scroll down the Rheem manual they say it's ok to use this vent kit which has a kind of screen.
Same with this Lennox one.
https://m.lennoxpros.com/605384-01-flush-mount-vent-kit/p/51W11
you can but better heated vests and jackets on amazon and they run off of usb power banks (come with) that are cheaper
Looking good man! Im a pretty new guy myself but my boss really recommends these nut drivers and after using them I definitely agree. They are magnetic and long to reach tight spaces. Really good for furnaces. Here's an amazon link to them: https://www.amazon.ca/646M-Magnetic-Driver-6-Inch-Hollow/dp/B000936QV0/ref=asc_df_B000936QV0/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292999463894&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3314379524690967320&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&a...
​
Great little toolbox, absolute solid quality. Take a look at the comments / customer pics to get a better idea of color and design, the stock photo does it no justice.
Klein Hvac 14-in-1 Driver
$24.97 (30% off at the moment)
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Adjustable-Klein-Tools-32304/dp/B09Q4H5STD
An absolute must for your bag, pays for itself every day! It has the ability to turn into a stubby and also has a Schrader tip. You can chuck it into your drill and has a reversible 1/4”-5/16” tip similar to the Malco ones at the parts house.
speaking of mechanic tools....im shopping for gray pneumatic sockets as we speak.
I like these
Buy this, they also make one to fit a 2” shower drain if that’s what you have.
You might enjoy a well written fictional sci-fi story about jumping spiders that evolve intelligence:
Adrian Tchaikovsky’s “Children of Time”
I installed for years and always did it like you are doing all these downvotes are coming from over critical people who are not seeming to understand that you might not just pick on superheat and subcool right away. If I were to reccomend you anything it would be to install the charge check app on your phone that's how I learned superheat and subcool. And when you charge superheat Google "target superheat chart" and go by that I always was taught to go with 20° and that is wrong use your chart.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.emerson.checkncharge
These are sold at most supply houses like Johnstone