The 85" 85U7H at $999 ($200 more) is of more interest to me. Granted it is pre-order, but that is $100 less than the 75." ...unless of course this is just a scam that Amazon hasn't caught yet.
Might have to watch for this as it becomes available at more places.
75U7H showing $1099 on Amazon
75U75H showing $1079 on Costco
Not a huge difference, but maybe a good reason to try out Costco since not only do you get a $20 discount, but an extra year warranty. This is as of Sep 10th, 2022. Prices may change afterwards.
Need to download the app called downloader from the play store. It’s a web browser that lets you download and install apks android apps. Link to it. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.esaba.downloader&hl=en_US&gl=US
Then go to this website to download the launcher. Tropint.com/wolf
Also link to button mapper. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=flar2.homebutton&hl=en_US&gl=US
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.spocky.projengmenu&hl=en_US&gl=US Best custom launcher hands down and it is available on Play.
I submitted that to Amazon for price match, will see if they react or not.
Wow, even the 55U8H is listed on amazon and it too is slightly cheaper than the introductory price of the 55U8G at 950. It's also about 250 USD more than the best deal on the 55U8G.
Nice! This is an amazon listing and it says currently out of stock. It's 425 USD more than the best deal on the 65U8G. And slightly cheaper than when the U8H was first released in June of 2021. I feel that pricing won't hold. As in the price will increase when it properly launches.
Sometimes, NCP will not show proper monitor information. This is because Windows gets confused and gives the wrong settings in the display settings. It's a pain. Go into monitor settings in Windows settings first, make sure that the refresh rate, resolution, etc. all show proper info. Usually you can change them as needed (I was able to with my U8G). Then go into Nvidia Control Panel and if you had to make changes in Windows, those changes will be visible in NCP now. Double check your color depth, etc. as well.
Not sure the riser cable would matter but I'd install the new one anyway.
Enhanced HDMI is under the TV's first menu selection. It's called HDMI Format > Enhanced format.
Here's the cable I'm using, btw:
I couch game with my PC. I'm using the 55U8G and playing at 4K, 120hz, HDR, HDMI to TV, eARC to receiver, etc. I push the system as much as I can with the TV and it's been a great experience. Also, there was a commentor on Rtings who had a great baseline for the calibration setup of the various picture modes. If you want to go further, you can use something like a Color Munki and DisplayCal.
Hope this info can help you.
No idea on that. I use this stand with my 55" U8G. Uses a VESA mount and works well for me.
Universal Floor TV Stand Base with Swivel Height Adjustable Mount for 32 37 43 47 50 55 60 65 70 Inch Plasma LCD LED OLED Flat or Curved Screen TVs, Black Tempered Glass Base for Media Storage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MKK75K8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M2FZ9WK3K5ZQ97D3E2GN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You have only two easy options, apart from just using the 3.0 that is left:
1) If you feel you've maybe worn out the port by constantly plugging and unplugging, you can get a small 6in usb extender for a couple of bucks. Then if you wear it out, it is just the extender that needs replacing.
2) Use a different keyboard/mouse, whichever is physically connected. Most faulty USB devices can't fry a port if they are powered exclusively by the port, but its not impossible for something to burn out in the device leading to a direct loop of power back to the port itself. It is exceptionally rare, but not once-in a-lifetime rare.
Apart from that you would have to take the rear panel off and examine the point - as there is zero power coming from it, you'll likely find a black area where something fried. If its a capacitor you can buy from DigiKey and re-solder, but that's beyond the scope of an easy solution.
Full Motion TV Wall Mount Articulating Arms Swivel Tilt Rotation for Most 37-70 Inch OLED, LCD, LED Flat Curved TVs, Extension to 24 inch Wood Stud up to 132lbs Max VESA 600x400mm by Pipishell https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YJDV1CV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5PC323X6SGBE00VYEDCZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got this for the U8G65
So currently I am using is one. I used another but the optical port stopped working and I gave them another shot and it did the same, but this one has been working fine and without any issues.
J-Tech Digital 4K30 HDMI Audio Extractor HDMI ARC Converter SPDIF + RCA Output HDCP1.4 Compatible with Dolby Digital/DTS CEC [JTD4KATSW] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YHS5E6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4F30A10YCXHSTQ3BC345?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah it's their immersion lights kit Limited-time deal: Govee Immersion TV LED Backlights with Camera, RGBIC Wi-Fi TV Backlights for 55-65 inch TVs PC, Works with Alexa & Google Assistant, App Control, Music Sync TV Lights, Adapter, H6199 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LVPWQQP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_dl_MN2XT32ATB7V6Z0TC222?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you! My first tv setup, was stuck between an LG c1 but this u8g is incredible & insane bang for the buck.
It's on sale currently too, I believe they have a size up for larger TV's as well.
Limited-time deal: Govee Immersion TV LED Backlights with Camera, RGBIC Wi-Fi TV Backlights for 55-65 inch TVs PC, Works with Alexa & Google Assistant, App Control, Music Sync TV Lights, Adapter, H6199 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LVPWQQP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_dl_31MNY73SQ9P80YS4RXFZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had this issue both with the speakers and an external sound bar connected via optical. However using an ARC audio extractor to connect the sound bar fixed the issue. The one I got works great, powers off the tv usb, and can connect any external audio device.
As others have said even a cheap sound bar makes a world of difference. I’ve had mine for nearly 10 years and connected it to three different TVs and it’s always makes a huge difference compared to built in speakers.
Just adding a note here since this is a thread I found while researching this issue. I also found that the ARC audio seems to work great. Internal speakers and external speakers connected using the optical output give the same hollow sound, but when output from ARC everything sounds normal! I got this extractor and hooked it up to my sound bar. A little silly using HDMI to optical even though there's a built-in optical out, but it works! Great solution if you already have an external sound bar.
Yes I have the 55” U7G and my usb ethernet adapter is the Monoprice one, specifically this one Monoprice USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter (111195) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFSP3KE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_V8EF3KB3GAPTHZ9MJATP
I tried this one and it didn't work. Do you have a U7G?
UGREEN USB Ethernet Adapter USB 3.0 to 10 100 1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN Network Adapter Ethernet Compatible with Nintendo Switch MacBook Surface Pro Laptop PC Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_W1B16QZ6QDTPHKTQT6F0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
$12 usb ethernet adapter will solve your issue, I did it and can now go over the 100mbps limit. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Aluminum-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B0898C73ZZ/ref=sr\_1\_6?crid=YE2SRAYWG0OB&keywords=usb+3+ethernet+adapter&qid=1644440536&sprefix=usb+3+ethernet+adapter%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-6
Got it hooked up using the 4k edid and was only getting 1080p 60hz, I didn't have a lot of time to mess with it after setup but I may tinker with it more tomorrow, or wait until Sunday when the 2k edid arrives.
To note: The only 2k EVanlak bi-directional I could find was "UHD", any "QHD" option was a dummy plug, is the "UHD" bi-directional the one you're referring to?
Crunchyroll and waipu TV (and o2 TV which in turn is based on waipu) are both on android TV.
Waipu TV is a German itv provider. While o2 TV is so to say the o2 skinned version of wapiu. O2 is isp in Germany that made a deal with waipu.
Both are also avaible for the general public on the playstore for any android device.
From what I heard some /all VIDAA U version run on a barbone android so porting could be possible if the orginal devs are OK I guess?
You need this
u/camando99 that is just a jack adapter.... It odesent convert digital signal to analog!
Monoprice 8K Certified Braided Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 Cable - 15 Feet - Black | 48Gbps, Compatible with Sony PS 5, PS 5 Digital Edition, Xbox Series X, and Xbox Series S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093738JL3/
I just installed it a couple of hours ago and it fixed the problem between my Lenovo Legion 5 Pro with Nvidia RTX 3070 and my new 65-in u8g. I can now run all of my PC games at 4K and 120hz and the picture won't be scrambled like it was with my previous "High Speed (18Gb/sec)" cable.
Prior to this, I thought it was a problem with the TV itself. Now I am 100% satisfied with the Hisense.
I'm using these.
Cable Matters 3-Pack 48Gbps Ultra HD 8K HDMI Cable 6.6 ft / 2m with 8K @120Hz, 4K @240Hz and HDR Support for PS5, Xbox Series X/S, RTX3080 / 3090, RX 6800/6900, Apple TV, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081NXV3ZR/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_5FHNM57QKZ28JS2ZSQKQ?psc=1
Once they fall the adhesive is pretty much hosed. Get some of this. I put some red LEDs in my Corvette floor boards. The original tape did not stick, mostly due to armorall all over everything. Clean the tv with alcohol and use this.
The other guy was talking about this TV. I was comparing it to the U8G. It's in the same price range. 1000$ is the lowest I've seen it. I have a budget 4K vizio right now. It's not perfect, but it's last 5 years, and only got 1 dead pixel.
If I wasn't getting the U8G I would've bought this. The U8G seems like it has better value plus more dimming zones for the 65. Probably more features idk. I've seen a lot of reviews for the U8G compared to the vizio though so i was sketchy to buy it.
VIZIO 65-Inch P-Series Premium 4K UHD Quantum Color LED HDR Smart TV w/Apple AirPlay 2 & Chromecast Built-in, Dolby Vision, HDMI 2.1, 4K 120Hz Gaming, Variable Refresh Rate, P65Q9-J https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095XMJM32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_RQFBB8DG9Q11JEAMSAEV
Here's what I used for the 55U8G. I think either 15mm spacers with 30mm M6 machine screws in all 4 holes or 15mm spacers with 30mm screws on the bottom and 10mm spacers with 25mm screws on top will work best and keeps the mounting plate/arms about parallel to the screen.
Here's what I used for the 55UG8. I think either 15mm spacers with 30mm M6 machine screws in all 4 holes or 15mm spacers with 30mm screws on the bottom and 10mm spacers with 25mm screws on top will work best and keeps the mounting plate/arms about parallel to the screen.
Here's what I used. I think either the 15mm spacers with 30mm M6 machine screws in all 4 holes or 15mm spacers with 30mm screws on the bottom and 10mm spacers with 25mm screws on top will work best and keeps the mounting plate/arms about parallel to the screen.
The ghosting was from the noise reduction setting I think, turning that off fixed it for me in shows and on my PC. I use RTX3080 to display 4K HDR 120HZ Gsync with local dimming on high, works very well with the right cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GQDKR81/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had a similar issue with my remote control. I ended up purchasing a replacement on Amazon, and it resolved the issue. Amazon
Got it, I went to the PS5 official website and saw none for sale. I ended up getting this one. I'll try the KontrolFreek model if this one doesn't work.
Here man, here's the HDMI cable I went with. The default PS5 HDMI cable is Ultra High Speed at 32Gbs. I was having color banding issues on my previous TV with it, and issues on my U7G as well. I saw a reddit post awhile back about some other PS5 users also experiencing issues until they swapped out their HDMI cables. I was told to get this cable. It's 48Gbs compared to the 32Gbs of the default PS5 cable. I'm just speculating here, but maybe the default PS5 cable can't always keep up with these next gen TVs and that's where the issues are. I went with this Zeskit HDMI cable, and all my issues have been resolved. This cable is great and it's certified.
Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 6.5ft, 4K120 8K60 144Hz eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X RTX 3080 PS4 PS5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1CGQ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_92W1V7V01SEGG1YNMVDV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The blacks are indeed deep until you watch in a dark room. I do about 50% of my TV viewing at night so this has been a major weakness for me regarding the TV.
Overall I'm pretty happy but it took forever to dial in the settings and get things look good enough. I highly recommend a bias light to help with perceived contrast at night. Even then the IPS blooming is very noticeable for me.
As a result of my use case I've gone ahead and placed an order for the 75 TCL R646 since BB just dropped the price. I'm going to compare the two side by side and will be returning the loser
Hey, just following up. I bought a Cable Matters cable (16ft active powered HDMI 2.1) . I also joined the Xbox Insiders, there was a minor xbox os update which doesn't mention any change on how they handle VRR.
Everything seems to be working, flicker free, with every video setting toggled on in the Xbox @ 120Hz. I'm not sure if it's thanks to the xbox update, the cable, or a combination of both but I tried playing for 30min in the Halo 2 mission that was flickering the most (called Regret, in case you want to try it) and couldn't get it to flicker at all.
Now I'm trying to figure out a ghosting issue that so far has only happened while an object is moving over dark grey backgrounds. Have you experienced anything like that? Here's a video
I have a 75 U7G and a Series X. I play COD Warzone and every game in 4K HDR 120Hz VRR. I have zero issues. Never seen any flickering. No audio delay. I use ARC to my Onkyo TX-NR809 and have the Xbox bitstream DTS for games and passthrough Dolby Digital+ for videos. My AVR is not Atmos capable.
I use these HDMI cables as I needed longer ones since they are hidden behind my wall.
I wonder if the issues you are experiencing are HDMI bandwidth issue. I hope when my Onkyo RZ50 arrives in December I'll be able to use Atmos without problems
Are you using a high quality HDMI cables?
On the Xbox menu under General > Volume and Audio Output > HDMI Audio I have mine set to Bitstream and Bitstream Format is set to DTS. Your soundbar night not be able to handle DTS so try Dolby Digital? Or is your soundbar newer and you are able to use Dolby Atmos / DTS:X.
Do you have HDMI Format set to Enhanced on the TV for both inputs (eARC and Xbox)? On the TV Menu under Sound > Advanced Settings > Digital Audio Out what do you have it set to? I have mine set to Pass Through.
It is not fixed with optical alone but after a month of searching online, I found a thread (forget where) on a solution if you have a soundbar at least.
It turns out that the HDMI ARC works just fine. This didn't help me since I have an optical 2.1 visio soundbar.
This device will take your HDMI Arc and convert it to Optical or analog. It encodes it properly and the sound is great. My only warning is that it will take up one of your precious HDMI slots on the TV. It does have an HDMI in, but it can be wonky after you turn back on the TV and mine stopped playing sound. So i just leave it to process sound only and the HDMI in empty. It's a sacrifice I will make to get better sound.
I am only on day 2 of using this device, but it works so far!
Something is definitely wrong. I have a 75 U7G and I play Warzone 4K HDR 120Hz Freesync on and it's flawless. I have Gamepass so let me download GOW4 and check it out.
I'm not using the original Xbox cable either. I bought this set after being recommended to me on AVSForum and all the HDMI 2.1 features work flawlessly. Give them a try and see if it helps. I need the longer length because my cables run behind the wall. I'm using ARC too. My AVR isn't eARC capable. Maybe it's a bandwidth issue with your cables?
I had the same problem with annoying lip sync latency and bought an external Bluetooth transmitter that connects to the AUX which has fixed the problem for me for now.
If you can force the 2.4GHz or 5GHz in the tv network settings try that. If you cant then make another SSID on your router that is only 5Ghz. If you are to far from the router speeds will get real bad.
I had the same issue as you, need to buy https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Orbi-RBK753-Extenders-RBK753-100NAS/dp/B092DWKK73/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=NETGEAR+Orbi+RBK753S&qid=1632757506&sr=8-4 (refurbished work fine and are cheaper). I run them in Aces point mode and they are great.
U7G. I have the 55 inch model hooked up to my PS5. Once I figured out the picture settings, the picture looks amazing. Especially for games like Ghost of Tsushima. I used to have a Hisense 4K TV I bought back in 2017, so the U7G is a big upgrade for me. I definitely recommend it. Just make sure you also have a good HDMI cable. This is the one I use between my U7G and my PS5:
Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 6.5ft, 4K120 8K60 144Hz eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X RTX 3080 PS4 PS5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1CGQ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_HDBVRQ82JB8BTZG4NWEB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This reminds of a post made in made in /r/CordCutters where a person told a millennial co-worker how to get free channels via an antenna and the co-workers response "watching free tv isn't that illegal?" Haha...
Many younger folks are use to just paying and have no idea about free antenna broadcast.
Anyways like most commented, you can use an antenna to get the major networks like Fox, NBC, ABC, CW, PBS etc. I'm 35 miles away from a transmitter and get over 140 channels with a Mohu 50: https://www.amazon.com/Mohu-Paper-thin-Reversible-Performance-MH-110599/dp/B00HSMK59E
You can find how far away your from broadcast transmitters from the links in TheKoG reply.
Something like that would work, but honestly youre going to have more in that in the box and cables you might as well buy a used receiver that has optical input. The tv has an optical output you could use.
Ok, are we saying that because my receiver doesn't have an optical in, this is better than using the HDMI port, and probably is cuz it doesn't Kill a port and since I don't need video anyway why not.
PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_BZYBY734ZBJ900M3MZDC
Why wouldn’t you be able to mount it to the top of the tv with this? Limited-time deal: Mounting Dream Soundbar Mount Sound Bar TV Bracket for Mounting Above or Under TV Fits Most of Sound Bars Up to 22 Lbs, with Detachable Long and Short Extension Plates MD5420 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DW1XOCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_BDSVR2951379CCCXG6VW
I also couldn't find one that cheap either, so I went with this one, which may be overkill but I didn't want anything bigger in size.. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DFDQ6HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_WFP9C1SNA0B9G6CMMWSC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you. Yeah, 4GB seems low. Good to know it can be solved with a usb drive. If it's not much trouble can you also check for me if it's compatible with the microsoft remote desktop app (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.microsoft.rdc.androidx&hl=en)
Still available at Bezos-mart: Hisense ULED Premium 65-Inch U7G Quantum Dot QLED Series Android 4K Smart TV with Alexa Compatibility (65U7G, 2021 Model) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B091YRFZ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ESFSDZSY4BFDYYJKKHZ2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Either try the headphones jack or get a cheap DAC (digital to analog converter). Something like a FiiO D03K
I used to collect headphones, and the chain was typically
Digital source (USB, or optical)
DAC (RCA output)
Amplifier (RCA input)
I bought one of these to use instead of the factory remote because I didn't need the number buttons and wanted something closer in size to my Firestick remote.
Paired right up with Bluetooth and works great.
I've had this happen before on different sets, if you haven't already, try a different HDMI cable or one of the high bandwidth 48gbps ones
Still trying to get Hisense to acknowledge my ownership of my TV, but I got frustrated and decided to try another USB drive. Bought this, created a 5gb FAT32 partition in windows: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091XPTDH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I am now getting the USB upgrade screen. So it looks like the TV is sensitive when it comes to what USB drive you plug in.
Q7G? Are you in Canada? Or Q7809? I can certainly try to help you. Alexa and Google control what voice commands are available through the Android TV OS - so we can't help there but if there are handshake issues or functionality issues, we're happy to try to assist.
I think it breaks the Android TV Remote. The only way to get the remote to work now is disable wifi and force it to use bluetooth.
Silly question, have you downloaded the RemoteNow app to your Apple device? It's available via <strong>Google Play</strong> and the <strong>iOS App Store</strong>. It's what we require on many of our TV's (in Canada) to use Amazon Alexa voice commands. You can usually use it for screen sharing - although I am unsure if they have tweaked the Apple compatibility - I know I've used it on my iPhone for photos - not sure about other types of media though...
Use the app:
Depending on what model your TV is this remote may work and is less than $7.00
I bought this one.
8K HDMI Cable, AUDIANO 8K HDMI Cable 100% Real 8K, High Speed 48Gbps [email protected] 7680P Dolby Vision, HDCP 2.2, 4:4:4 HDR, eARC Compatible with Apple TV, Samsung QLED TV (6.6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VMD11JZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cSpdFbX3NX44Z
I had the Amazon basics one and it worked pretty well except it didn't do HDR.
There are a few more on Amazon that claims that it does it such as this one https://www.amazon.ca/ESYNIC-HDMI-Audio-Extractor-Support/dp/B07MGVN51K/
Or a brand called j-tech
Amazon has all kinds.....what's important is the plug....if its the two prong or three prong type.....most likely it's like this...... https://www.amazon.com/Power-Cord-12Ft-Cable-Samsung/dp/B01JB7ZU5M/ref=pd_lpo_23_img_2/131-3001652-2180615?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01JB7ZU5M&pd_rd_r=0cc78778-becf-4c82-ae54-7d3457c3d991&pd_rd_w=QDW7B&pd_rd_wg=S8Gt6&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=K09JRGV12Q33FXYFT1PJ&psc=1&refRID=K09JRGV12Q33FXYFT1PJ but....look to make sure. My H9F has the two prong....H8G is probably the same.
Here’s the amazon link that shows “currently unavailable” - Hisense 65H9G Quantum Series 65-Inch Android 4K ULED Smart TV with Alexa Compatibility (2020) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087FDSRV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x7U1EbMJ51HG9
You can write one on Amazon:
And/Or you can provide one to me here or via [email protected] - as long as you're okay with me sharing it in Canada as well since the products are the same.
Just let us know how long you've had it for, what you are primarily using it for (games, movies, TV), and your initial thoughts on UX, functionality, picture quality, sound, etc. And any other third-party devices you are using with it.
The Amazon product page for the 65H9G has been listed for maybe 2 weeks but it opened up for orders for a few hours a couple days ago.
I have enough confidence in this thing to buy it dry with no review...The strength of last years H9F, the improvements this year that we saw at CES.... I may have took a bit of a gamble but I'm super excited for an RTINGS review.