The K4 is 1800 layout, so normally any 1800 keycap set will fit your keyboard.
For example:
Hi there! I’m from the PHL so my options might be different. But you can search for CMYK and off white keycaps on Amazon. The gudetama keycap was a custom resin keycap made for me!
Just one off of amazon, here is the link. https://www.amazon.com/Extended-Mousepads-Water-Resistant-800%C3%97400%C3%973mm-Graphics/dp/B07BQQXGQG
Yes, just that. It's nearly impossible to find a single set with sculpted keycaps that work with the K2's nonstandard layout.
Going for an unsculpted set means you don't have to worry about the gradient which increases the compatibility. No worrying about the R1 End key for instance.
The keys most to look out for are: 1.75u R-shift / R1 end / R2 home / R4 page up / R3 page down / 1u R-ctrl / 1u R-alt / R4 generic to replace the light key
For example this one is missing the 1u R-ctrl / 1u R-Alt / R1 End / R2 Home. Looking at the 75% keycaps sets will typically have a few keys missing as well.
A full set of pudding keycaps including 1.75u shift at Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JQ3QJ8B/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A257ALKOU7JKIJ&th=1
I've enjoyed this one so far. Not sure how durable it will be.
well amazon just updated the page they're taking in orders right now lol https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Bluetooth-Mechanical-Hot-swappable-Tenkeyless/dp/B0875RD9LB?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1
I just used some thin craft foam I had lying around and it made quite a difference. I cut it to it the individual impressions in the case, probably not actually necessary but I did anyway.
I used the most of the keys (letters, mostly) from the Corsair PBT set on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0919KTK2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) . Cheap and really pretty nice.
I have a mix of keys now, some original (mostly numbers and modifiers) some Corsair (letters PRTSCR and `~ ), and some custom (red keys, Arrows, ESC, and Delete). Some might think it a bit of a mess, but I like it.
Oh, and I remapped the Home, PgUp, and PgDown to Delete, PRTSCR, and `~ .
This will not work. You will need to find keycaps at least 138-144 keys. For 1800 layout /96% like k4v2. The problem is to find 1u Zero in number pad, 1.75 shift, and R4 1u delete key.
This is another cheaper route. Legends are laser engraved, which tend to fade easily.
I was eyeing these. OOS right now though. https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Keycaps-Sublimation-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B08TWMXFQL/ref=pd_ybh_a_15?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R9PRA10Y8N8EXTM42YH8
Are you primarily gaming? Are you seeing a delay in BT from normal office/browsing? If you are seeing a big delay in BT (other than waking up from sleep) then you have a different problem, perhaps interference or the radios are too far away from one another. I have K2, K4 and K6 with no BT issues at all with 3 different Lenovo laptops, all BT 5.0. I hardwire for competitive FPS games and the like.
I collect some flashlights that you li-on batteries. FYI - stay away from the flashlight reddit and budget light forum....- can be very addictive :-) From what I understand to improve the lifespan of a li-ion battery it should be exercised, i.e. run down and recharged. But if you don't ever plan on using it - I am not sure it matters. You could consider unplugging the battery - I assume the keyboard work without it connect. They also make something like this- that disconnects power at the USB connector. I think there are more versions of this out there on ali and ebay.
Nice, mine was slated for Monday but I noticed that once DHL says it's been cleared by customs it's delivered the next day. It stopped in Ohio on the 18th and delivered the 19th at 11am. 2 days is probably the fastest I've ever seen a package come from china go doorstep.
Now I just need to find some good keycaps for it. Current caps are https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XG9K6T4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_NT4MQ0PDHC7F90Z3SRJX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
check out the ymdk full set on amazon i used it for the k4 and it comes with a bunch of extra so it should have what you need. i just got them so cant tell you how long the will hold up but so far i am happy with them.
​
Thanks! I was hesitant when I saw ABS, but they feel super premium and thick, and the double shot legends look great in person. Here’s the link to the wrist rest:
Glorious Gaming Wooden Wrist Rest - TENKEYLESS (TKL) - Brown - Mechanical Keyboards Wood Ergonomic Palm Rest| 14x4 inches/19mm Thick (GV-87-BROWN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCHER6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WKSNY6QWD9JN83Z41FNE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've been searching for 1800 layout keycaps for a while. This is the closest I can find without breaking a bank. 1u 0 key is hard to come by, PBT doubleshot shine through 1u 0 key oem/cherry profile keycap is like a unicorn
I recognize the keycap set. It's XDA Profile
Keycaps that allow light shine through will be advertised as so. So just look out for that. Example
I don't have the caps of the above example, so don't know what the quality of those are.
I did notice a difference when I added the foam which was more noticeable when not having the board inclined with the feet. When it’s completely flat on the deskmat there is barely any hollow sounds (if at all).
Regarding silent switches it’s more so for the sound that’s made from the keys being pressed in my opinion vs the sounds of the switches. A case is always gonna make noise due to other factors which is why I would suggest using foam.
I decided not to go with the foam that came in the box and went with Dualplex Neoprene Sponge Foam Rubber Sheet Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WDSMVB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PN9F92B1A4VWG05C667Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I placed a single layer towards the front on the board and doubled the thickness in the back to fill the void due to the angle of the case (I didn’t place any on the battery). I do see people avoid placing foam on the top of the feet molds, but I ended up just putting a single layer there.
For the stabs I didn’t really like how they felt. It’s sorta hard to describe but they felt too cheap for me if that makes sense. I ended up going with genuine cherry MX stabs that I lubed with krytox 205g0 and put them in (I put alittle too much on the right shift being my first time, but I don’t use right shift so shrug)
It’s very comfortable, it’s a little shorter than the keyboard but it helps! If you’re interested Amazon US
Not OP, but I think it's:
YMDK, so it should be alright quality.
I've been using these for close to 2 years now. Braided, slim fit, and won't break the bank. They meet all the USB C specs too.
Oh don't get me wrong I very much loved it the minute I got my hands on it. It is a clear upgrade over my previous mechanical board.
​
As for key caps, i got a set of Tai-Hao caps (Sunset: https://www.amazon.com/Tai-Hao-Sunshine-Double-Shot-Keycap/dp/B082V8BNCM)
Might not be to everyone's taste but I enjoy the look, feel and sound :D
Thank you!
The exact sorbothane I ordered was this link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019GB21MS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which unfortunately isn't available currently..but you can probably find something similar.
I did not use any differing thicknesses- it all fit in just fine!
TP-Link USB Bluetooth Adapter for PC(UB400), 4.0 Bluetooth Dongle Receiver Support Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP for Desktop, Laptop, Mouse, Keyboard, Printers, Headsets, Speakers, PS4/ Xbox Controllers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07V1SZCY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Q-nbGb50DM9PN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This 6 ft. cable was recommended by a YouTuber who was reviewing a Keychron keyboard. The cable supports both charging and data transfer, and the 90-degree elbow bend is deep so it should reach the indented port on the keyboard.
(I’ve not actually tried this cable, it’s my luck that the (stupidly short) stock cable fits my needs).
CableCreation USB C to USB A Cable, 6ft 90 Degree Type C to USB 2.0 Cord, Compatible Google Pixel XL 2, LG G6 V20, Galaxy S9/S9+,1.8M Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0198806DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_OVHaGbBHBQMQ5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here is the stand :p and here is the hole saw. it comes with a piece with the stand that you can run it through a hole :D
In case you want some keycaps. I almost got a K8 just because these fit.
https://www.amazon.com/Drop-Skylight-Keycap-Set-Shine-Through/dp/B08FKRGSDF?th=1
I got the crystal crown key caps in white
Edit: it’s awesome, here is the link G.SKILL Crystal Crown Keycaps - Keycap Set with Transparent Layer for Mechanical Keyboards, Full 104 Key, Standard ANSI 104 English (US) Layout - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KS5H65Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_yJR6FbF47VYKV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I used, there wasn't too many options for us UK guys on Amazon so I figured this would be the best option.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0044UZWL4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those are YMDK DSA 9009s if I am correct: https://www.amazon.com/YMDK-Profile-Keyset-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07WV4NSQZ
Here’s the direct link to the wrist rest I bought, can confirm it’s super comfy
ASUS ROG Gaming Wrist Rest with Soft-Foam Cushioning https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07HWKFQD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qSfMFbFTJH5EY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Oh gosh my bad... I must have mixed it up o_O To compensate, see sets below, definitely correct this time XD
YMDK 125 DSA Dye Sub 9009 Retro PBT Full Keyset for MX Mechanical Keyboard Filco Ducky 104 TKL 61 KBD75 Kira96 YMD96 XD64 Tada68 (125 Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083L6FVPN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6KFIFbBRAJ6N0
YMDK Godspeed Top Print Thick PBT Mac Keys OEM Profile Keycaps Suitable for Standard ANSI 61 TKL 108 MX Mechanical Keyboard (Only Keycap) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PY44PSJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wMFIFb9PZEYR5
This is the mode you’re looking for—not sure why it’s unavailable. It was up for purchase last week. keep in mind that brown switches were not available on the K1v3 or earlier, and that they’re new to the K1v4.
Yessss!!! I hate branding on stuff, I got a glorious gaming one but got dirty easily. This one is leather and easy to clean here friend
Yep here is LINK. I've been sorely tempted to just get this even though I want the TKL in browns...
I was planning to do the same thing - use it in the office and also at home. This is my first mechanical keyboard. Coming from a low profile Dell membrane keyboard (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Dell-104-Key-Keyboard-Fold-out-Select/dp/B008C4JA66), I wanted something low profile and quiet as to not annoy my co-workers. So it was a toss up between the brown & red switches and I picked the red. If you press a key on your membrane keyboard, you feel a slight initial bump, and then it gives in and you can fully press the key into the board. Now imagine all the keys feel like the 2nd half of that. There's no tactile response that the key was pressed until you hit the board. Typing on reds feel like typing on mashed potatoes - you just press down until it hits the bottom of the plate lol. It's great for gaming since your fingers are mainly on a few keys, but not so great for typing when you're hitting all different types of keys in sequence - you need that tactile feel to confirm the key before moving to the next one. I'm sure I can get used to the reds, but I rather the keyboard fit me instead of me adjusting to it. Hope this helps!
Will these work?
https://www.amazon.com/Akko-Shine-Through-Double-Shot-Mechanical-Keyboards/dp/B0B9NC59HH?th=1
ASA profile has spherical tops, but these seem to fit your requirements and have all the keys needed for a 96% layout.
I got both the brown and blue switch versions of K1 SE listed on Amazon US:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FDWXXYJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
​
Browns are very mushy, almost no resistance. Blues are more satisfying but the clicks are very pronounced.
My WFH situation is neutral to the clicks, but I wish for the week of the their blues and the whisper of their browns.
Yeah, any plate mounted stabs will work. I've used Durock plate mount stabs in the past and they seemed pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/DUROCK-Transparent-Stabilizer-Gold-Plated-Stabilizers/dp/B0B2JHLZQN
Been using the K4 for two years and I feel you. Typing can get pretty uncomfortable pretty fast. It is a good keyboard, but a bit too high.
I got this wrist rest from amazon (only because Keychron won't ship their wooden wrist to Canada back then) and it feels much better now.
Try that, if it helps keep it, else return it.
On a side note K$ can sound and feel much better if you do a foam mod and lube the switches. Did it last week and it feels really good now.
Just go to the Keychron page on Amazon, it's very clear. https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Hot-Swappable-Mechanical-Programmable-Aluminum-Blue/dp/B09MQC6XJL
A semi generic one on amazon: Number Pad HAVIT Mechanical Numeric Keypad with GATERON Optical Red Switches Hot Swappable Keypad Type-C USB-A Wired PBT Keycaps 21 Keys Numpad for Laptop Computer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VXKC1GQ?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Going on the dimensions elsewhere in this thread you may be able to fit two of these in:
OP: Speaking of Akko switches, check out Akko CS Ocean Blues. I built a keyboard for someone with them and they feel really nice. Super cheap and available at Amazon, too.
cherry profile works on keychron boards right
I felt the same way. I put some sound deadening material on the underside (inside the hollow part) of the space bar and now I'm 100% happy with the sound. I already had some of it from modding the keyboard case so this wasn't "extra" money for me.
You can use this or one of the similar brands: Kilmat, Dynamat, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B01KZ5X7KO
Before spending $ you could also try adding thin strips of duct tape or something to the underside of the space bar. It wouldn't work as well but it might be fine. Can always just remove it if you're not happy.
They look great! and it's good to have another option.
I'm using these at the moment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CB8D2YB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm hoping to find a pudding/phantom set with the media controls on the F keys like the stock, but no luck.
XVX Keycaps Just one I found on Amazon! Been looking for a while. I’m no expert so I don’t care or don’t know anything about their quality but they feel the same as the stock ones to me at least.
These are supposed to fit, though mine arrive today so I’ve yet to try them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09NKPTV4J/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve read these work too.
Go to your nearest hardware store and get a roll of masking tape. Here's an amazon link to something that looks pretty much the same as the one I used. It shouldn't really matter what brand or tape, just get the cheapest masking tape and it should work fine. I'm from EU too. Amazon tape link: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Masking-Painting-1-88-Inch-60-1-Yard/dp/B000BPILS2/ref=sr\_1\_6?crid=233U36246D9LZ&keywords=masking+tape&qid=1665694946&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjMzIiwicXNhIjoiNS4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjQuODMifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=masking+t...
Another post about the terrible bluetooth performance on these boards, and another set of comments dismissing the issues....
OP I've had bluetooth connectivity issues with my K2 also. I experienced lagging, slow-wake up times, dropped keystrokes, and sometimes rapidly repeated keystrokes upon wakeup.
You're not alone. I wish I had an answer for you, but currently my workaround has been to plug the keyboard in and use a USB switch to alternate between my work and personal PC - which is why I wanted the wireless connectivity in the first place.
I really like Keychrons and a lot of the other keebs out there have their problems too, but I agree BT functionality has been pretty much marketing fluff and nothing more. I know many others here say they never have issues but that doesn't meant here isn't a problem.
I really wish Keychron included 2.4Ghz dongles which has become pretty standard for wireless keyboards.
Also I don't know if this would work in your situation but I just ordered one of these USB hubs.
I've given up on trying to be wireless until the market gets a little better. I'm planning on plugging my K2 cord and Razer Basilisk dongle into this, and then switching it when I need to transfer to/from work.
Haven't done this myself but guess you could use something similar to this and plug it in the keyboards USB connector. Not sure though if it would work as you need to have a certain max distance to the charging pad it's placed on.
https://www.amazon.com/Version-Wireless-Charging-Receiver-Nillkin/dp/B06Y5FDXD4
ABSOLUTELY DO THIS! I just ruined my left ctrl key and keyboard because I listened to advice on this Subreddit that amounted to I know it's hard but just put in some elbow grease on this Subreddit.
The box for my Keychron C1 (which was sealed and new) clearly labeled it as Hot-swappable Option: You can alter every switch in 5 seconds without the need to solder. But when I removed the underside (Which I didn't do, because every tutorial online never needed to do that to just to remove the switches, I saw that every pin was soldered onto the PCB.
I bought it from this Keychron run Amazon page:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YNRTPDKpsc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I've got a horror story for you. The Keychron C1 was my first mechanical keyboard since the 1990's. I broke the left control key and mangled the switch trying to remove it.
The box reads Hot-swappable Option: You can alter the switch in 5 seconds without the need to solder. This is blatantly false.
After I couldn't get the left control key back into place, I took it apart completely and discovered to my horror that every pin was actually soldered on, and I had broken the connectors/pins, and I still couldn't get the switch to budge.
I bought mine from Amazon sold from Keychron itself on this page:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YNRTPDK?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
just search for "bluetooth 5.1 dongle for keyboard". i personally use this. not sure why your ps4 dongle won't work (not familiar with ps4 controllers).
as for the backlight, i don't think you can accomplish this wired. when your computer is asleep, it cannot just kill the power to the keyboard as it uses it to wake the pc up. and keychron does not sleep (backlight) when wired, as far as i know. i personally use a magnetic cable and just disconnect it if i want to be "off".
As you've already discovered, there are several layers in VIA that your Q3 has. Mac uses some and Windows uses some, but I forget which uses which.
Assuming it's not a VIA issue because your Q3 should come properly configured out of the box, I recommend checking your switch pins as others have already done. You'll need a switch puller tool and there are various kinds available, I have this one and it works good enough. Your Q3 should have come with a keycap remover but I don't know about it coming with a switch puller.
If the switch pins aren't the issue then check the socket holes, specifically for a gap between the metal contacts inside the holes. If the contacts are too far apart then the socket can't read your switch's inputs.
Looks nice! I got one of these for my K8 pro: https://www.amazon.com/XDK-Custom-Keycaps-Dye-Sub-Plastic/dp/B09SB2GNQX/
I'm trying out the MT3 profile keycaps right now, but XDA profile keycaps are really nice!
The best compromise I've ever seen is these "chalk" keycaps:
https://www.amazon.com/HK-Gaming-Dye-Sublimation-Keycaps/dp/B08156NG7K
You can't see it in the pictures, but the white keys let a lot of light through so you can still see RBG effects and stuff, type in the dark, etc
But the labels are black (not see-through) so everything is 100% legible in the daytime too
Not low profile, so useless for this purpose, but I wish more companies would give that a shot
I complained about this problem when I received my Q3. They sent me a replacement USB daughter board. It has exactly the same problem. I think their USB C connector design is inherently loose. I replaced the cable with this 90 degree connector that seems much more stable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VJN9YQM/
Hi, I'm experiencing this problem where I'm trying to switch over to my other Computer with Hotkey CTRL + CTRL + 1/2 and it won't work. I have a Keychron Q6 with a knob and the KVM switch I'm using is https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07ZYGRQGW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
This worked fine with my K10. Any idea on how to solve this?
>Mac PBT XDA keycaps from Amazon
Is it really that difficult to type mac xda keycaps into Amazon's search?
They also work fine for Thunderbolt, FYI. Using one on my MacBook Pro’s Thunderbolt dock.
Maybe try something like this: ESC Flip PRO Computer Keyboard Stand
I use it with one of my slim Logitech keyboards that had a leg break and it works well, I haven’t used on any other keyboard since I generally am comfortable with the default leg angles.
A year late but there's the XDA Lavacaps on Amazon. They're pudding for the white and black colors though. They were sold out for a while and i just noticed it was available again, too.
LTC XDA LavaCaps: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09J1HMJV9?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_9GGA0309BYY883WK8KYA
I just used some White on Black keycaps with the Navy keycaps from this Striker Clones for the Accents.
Was going for the old IBM Thinkpad keyboard look.
Thanks! The price on Amazon is pretty competitive right now actually (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JG89WWP)[Keychron C1 Brown Classic]
I need a very basic Mac Keyboard and I don't want to use a membrane or their Magic Keyboard.
u/IAMAVERYBADBOY and I share the same refined taste (...) and for everybody who would like to follow that trend here is the keycaps set (no endorsement, I post the links only for reference).
>Kapsize
right here! but if you're gonna put them on a K8, you don't want these as these were meant for 75% layout. order these instead. they come in two different profiles: Cherry and OEM. The Cherry one has more of a "normal" font while the OEM one has more of a "gaming" kinda look of a font.
these one’s off of Amazon I really like the look of them and they are cheap as well, but since they’re cherry profile I would assume it would not work with the k8 since it has north facing rgb but I guess not?
I used these and they worked great. I'm sure they'll work fine with v2 fine, i think you have the same keys just a little different layout.
The beige caps are: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08ZNC86KJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The blue caps are the ones that come stock. Hoping to replace them soon however. Will probably post an update here once I do.
For what it's worth my Q1 works fine with the powered greathtek KVM I'm using in the same sort of KVM -> USB-C dock situation between work computers. It also works with an older FJGear KVM, but that's just 1080p60, so I wouldn't recommend it.
That said, I usually have RGB turned off because I don't particularly like Keychron's RGB modes and haven't bothered to build QMK to correct it.
I saw a post on one of these keyboard subreddits (forgot which one) where they replaced only the mod keys with these “white crystal keycaps” that were shine-through.
The keycaps sold out on Amazon but the same brand sells a cheap board with those same caps on so you would probably be able to just swap them over. I’m waiting on that low profile Keychron to come back in stock before doing this myself.
Here’s the link to the board for $20: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HYSFDS7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QRFF92QASETAZJ0EMFWF
Hey all, finally gave up and wanted to share my solution.
After hours of trying Bluetooth options to connect to both my work laptop on monitor A and desktop on monitor B to share the K3, I gave up.
Working option was to purchase a KVM switch and hard wire the K3 to the KVM and via remote transfer back and forth between work laptop/monitor A and desktop/monitor B.
This one here has a little remote button which I placed on the left hand bottom of my desk for easy access to switch back and forth. Speed between switching is just as if not faster than switcihing back and forth on K3.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092Q42VPS?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_CR02SSPZ5ZQ8RE2HDW8B
Good luck all!
Hey all, finally gave up and wanted to share my solution.
After hours of trying Bluetooth options to connect to both my work laptop on monitor A and desktop on monitor B to share the K3, I gave up.
Working option was to purchase a KVM switch and hard wire the K3 to the KVM and via remote transfer back and forth between work laptop/monitor A and desktop/monitor B.
This one here has a little remote button which I placed on the left hand bottom of my desk for easy access to switch back and forth. Speed between switching is just as if not faster than switcihing back and forth on K3.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092Q42VPS?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_CR02SSPZ5ZQ8RE2HDW8B
Good luck all!
Hi, you wouldn't need to buy to different keycap sets, i meant something like this Keycap set :)
AKZYTUE 3.7V 4200mAh 604380 Lipo Battery Rechargeable Lithium Polymer ion Battery Pack with JST Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWHHJZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_PH7NY8VHG33H3JDDV0JC
I bought this from Amazon, if the dimensions are correct, it should fit and it's a much bigger capacity. Fingers crossed, it should be here next week and I'll let you all know
Hey there. I'm also looking for a good hard case for Q1. Found this one on amazon, seems like an exact fit: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B09QPXFK13 will update after delivery.
This is the link to the white key caps which are pretty affordable @ $18
Seiorca 104 PBT Keycaps Double-Shot Backlit Keycap Set for Mechanical Keyboard with Key Puller (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C2WKN4D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WRSXDGKWZ6ZTAC2MKDVJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don't think the HyperX set has a 1.75u Shift key, 1u bottom row keys, and a 1u 0 key.
These keycaps seem to have all of them, and YMDK is a somewhat known Chinese manufacturer. These are probably your best bet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CB8D2YB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RN6BTGAQ9D0S7ZKWMEGP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Well I don't know if you googled it and disabled the power management in device settings that I've seen several post about but I've tried all of those and none of them worked what worked for me was turning off my mobo Bluetooth and buying a Bluetooth adapter Limited-time deal: EVEO Bluetooth Adapter for PC 5.1 - Bluetooth Dongle 5.1 Adapter for Windows 10 Only (Plug and Play) for Desktop, Laptop, Printers, Keyboard, Mouse, Headsets, Speakers - USB Bluetooth 5.1 Dongle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0957NZNC2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_dl_HPTXSVQNYYE610DZWCC9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 This fixed my problem don't buy the TP-Link adapter neither of them worked and wouldn't even detect the keyboard this was my third choice and it worked fine only minor complaint is a delay when waking up PC hope this helps
Amazon! These are also available from a GMK clone store on Aliexpress but the price difference is negligible, so I went for Amazon.
Just search Amazon, I’m not sure what’s available in the UK…
Here’s the one I bought here in the US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M75JXS1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3VC5VA1GYYJRPNB1DZKG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just installed the Corsair caps (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B097HKP3J3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
)
I like them. The surface is a bit roucher then the stock caps from keychron. But the letters are better readable (bigger) and the light goes through better...
Tokey 144 Keys Set XDA Profile Custom Keycaps PBT Dye Sublimation ANSI Layout Keycaps Set for Gateron Kailh Cherry MX Switches Mechanical Gaming Keyboards (Plastic Theme) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZMR1651/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SN0V1HPZ5YMBDXHDVB52?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I personally use two separate PCs (one for work and one for play) and use a USB 3.0 device to easily switch my keyboard and other accessories between the two machines.
I recommend the below one from Amazon... I have used it for over 2 years with no issues and it provides plenty of bandwidth for the four devices I have connected to it. And you can easily switch all devices over with the press of one button.
So these cables are coiled cables with an aviator connector (I believe that is the right term).
The one I have is made by CableMod, sold on Amazon. I have used CableMod for custom PC cables as well and can't recommend them enough. They are super high quality.
That said, I will probably be returning this cable and getting a black one, the color was more wine red than I was expecting. I needed a bit brighter of a red or a black.
might be your computers bluetooth my mobo had built in bluetooth my other devices connect to it fine but when i connected k2 to it it worked the first day and then it kept disconnecting repeatedly i even tried to disabled the power management feature in device manager still only temp connections and then i tried ordering a bluetooth adapter from amazon i tried three which were the tplink adapters and neither would even detect my keyboard so i returned both and tried EVEO adapter and it been working fine since
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0957NZNC2?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_ZASJCT77G1755WTGWJPW
Thanks for the tips! Good call on the heat shrink.
Since I posted I did order these right angle adapters and they work great too. Fits with room to spare.
Cellurize Right Angle USB C Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B4CWYFB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
>https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071XHQJG8/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_api\_i\_1QHYH0CSAMEQ86FB9NQS
>
>I’ve been considering getting one for my k4v2 which has the same issue with the port on the left.
Sisyphy Magnetic USB C Adapter (2 Pack) - been using this on phone and headset. sometimes on my keyboard
This kind of defeats the aesthetic of the aviator cable :/ hate how the port is on the left. I think a better solution would be a 90 degree usbc adaptor, something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071XHQJG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1QHYH0CSAMEQ86FB9NQS
I just bought these clones and put them on my K4v2. I like them a lot. They feel better than the abs keycaps that came with the board.
[This Set](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JRSQC1M/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_api\_i\_M88QXCDS6STYPB5PM849) has all the correct keys for the K4; I have the “Phantom” version set on [my K4v2](https://i.imgur.com/5DM7zvH.jpg).