RUCKERCO Nail clippers set black matte stainless steel 3 pcs nail clippers &slant edg Toenail Clipper Cutter Metal Case .The best nail clipper gift for men and women https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q8V11GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7G4YCbZTSVWDM
Haha. Just kidding. I know that feeling for sure
Get dead bolts. And use this get security without sacrificing natural light.
BDF S8MC Window Film Security and Safety Clear 8 Mil (36in X 12ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CX5Z4B0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_23RQBbTQDC1WH
There are very few padlocks worth the time and service call of a locksmith to pick or manipulate it open.
Cut it off and replace it, 10 minute job all for the cost of the 17.00 padlock.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Titanium-Stainless-187XD/dp/B00004Y8CA
As the oil heats in the sun it polymerizes and creates a layer of "seasoning" on the pins. As the seasoning on the pins wears it can actually improve the lock tolerances and creates a non-stick layer on the pins much like a cast iron skillet. I actually prefer canola oil over linseed oil, but either will be effective. ^^^/s
20v dewalt angle grinder with 4.5in cut off wheels. About 20 seconds of “work”
Edit: I have this one uses same batteries as my drill
99% chance one of these two keys work. Locks like that are basically old-timey privacy locks, and numerous manufacturers made them. They pretty much all work on those two keys.
Seems like the Deadbolt screws may have come loose and the lock has settled to the side inside of the bore. You could try twisting it back to the left or take the screws loose on the back and move it to where it works better. This is a good deadbolt and the only one I would recommend to replace it is this one:
Your current lock is a Schlage S200 lock in 626 finish. The one you want is either a Schlage H153 (better quality) or S251 (same quality you have now). Now, those are the whole shebang, deadbolt and lever all in one box. I'm 99% certain you can simply swap out the lower part of your lockset using most of an S53 Neptune style lever in 626 finish, but I have only done the swap with an older style A53 into an H110 lock, so I cannot say authoritatively.
The same type of keyed lock that you can put on your front door will work. Something like this should fit.
If the holes are concentric, there are a few hole saw arbors out there designed to take 2 hole saws that you stack on top of each other - the smaller hole saw acting as a guide for the larger one.
I think the Bosch arbor is the best one. I have one and use it fairly often.
Hot hands are absolutely garbage. Yeah, they're a game changer. Zippo makes one but I bought the one I linked below.
You don't need a magnet lock. There are a variety of keyless options to do what you want to do with battery operated latches.
I've seen this device used to conceal a room behind a shelf in a closet:
But there are plenty that are cheaper if you want. Just search keyless cabinet lock or bluetooth hidden door lock, etc on Amazon/Google, etc
they make these for lamp switches, for accessibility purposes. this won't work for your application but it's something to think about.
https://smile.amazon.com/Enablers-EN23-Lamp-Switch-Enlarger/dp/B0009A0YCK?sa-no-redirect=1
Here you go. Three different lengths (CK2113 through CK4113), available in multiples with same combination (CA) or random (CD).
http://cclsecurity.com/products/camlocks/product.php?id=151
There's also this style, might be a bit more flexible, can set your own combination.
https://www.amazon.com/Combi-Cam-7850R-L-Combination-Chrome-Finish/dp/B000W7DBWA/
I didnt look at the results, but if you were going to find a really cheap duplicator, this would be the place to start. Hope it helps
Locksmiths or Overhead Door companies for options.
To get away from the stress on the key turn, you would want a free, non locking handle. The Rim Cylinder would mount a short distance above the handle. Turning your key extends or retracts a rim style deadbolt that locks or unlocks the interior of that handle in place.
It is a little hard to describe.
Kinda cheating to link this, but this sort of operation would be the goal. https://www.amazon.com/Building-Hardware-Garage-Cylinder-Handle/dp/B01IPPZ9SE/ref=asc_df_B01IPPZ9SE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198072898251&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5012423593869575475&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&a...
Our shop ordered two of these Lucky Line key hider pouches for use when programming anything prox. It makes sure you don't have conflicting signals when programming and allows you to easily isolate which keys work and don't without getting out of the vehicle and walking to the other side of the parking lot! (Our old procedure before we got these, haha)
Hey just curious if anyone knows if my front door is able to support residential smart locks like https://www.amazon.com/ULTRALOQ-Bluetooth-Fingerprint-Electronic-Deadbolt/dp/B082TNN1QB. I want to say it doesn't seem like it and may have to go to a pro if I really want one but was curious before I started buying anything.
Thanks.
It's a little hard to see, but it looks like this piece is broken. This is really the only thing that ever fails on these handlesets.
https://www.amazon.com/40-250-605-TRIPLE-OPTION-Interior/dp/B00176DFYO
I checked they don't offer one with a silver faceplate on Amazon. A locksmith would have this if you can't wait for the part. If you order the gold faceplate version here, then you can swap the faceplates yourself.
I think I got it... he said it was a plunger lock.. very odd
https://www.amazon.com/2610-Plunger-Lock-Threaded-01000/dp/B07JMGKZJT
I have this, it's pretty large, and it really only comes out for large jobs where more than one power tool comes out. But I do like it, lots of small organized pockets.
For smaller jobs I just have a husky pouch on a tool belt that just has the basics.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDTSZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_FkncGb9GE5NG8
It probably uses a winding key to open. Pre-1950 US made, chances are it will be a #7.
I would recommend getting a generic set, and ordering a nicer looking key once you find the correct one. https://www.amazon.com/Brass-Blessing-10-Size-Solid-Winding/dp/B01MYCM86X
Looked into Compx, and found a similar cylinder in their catologue. Searched amazon for that part number, and found this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IBW5MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for your suggestion!
Are there any markings on the other side? It looks like a reversible punch, but without more info it would be hard to track down the exact item.
This should be a functional replacement: https://www.amazon.com/GEDORE-8755700-Pin-Punch-2-4/dp/B000UZ0YEC/
Pretty sure most of anything you could learn from Foley, you could learn from youtube or books. It's completely easy to order almost any tool you want from the internet.
Bu no means the best book, but can't hurt to thumb through The Complete Book of Locks and Locksmithing
Absolute best way to lean is to go apprentice with someone.
I have never used this but the idea came to me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Reading the reviews, people soak stuff to dissolve rust.
Yeah thumbturn on the inside (so I can close the dead bolt) and have ease of use when I'm home and don't want to look around for the key if I need to open the door. But I want to be able to lock the thumb screw from unlocking when I leave for extended periods. So just like this, but blind or blanked on the outside of the door rather than keyed:
https://www.amazon.com/Protec2-Cylinder-Lockable-Thumbturn-Deadbolt/dp/B001TBUPTA
Would something like this work?
I did this today. I can unlock it with the key but can't lock it and have the key release. Is the cylinder too tight or loose?
This mortise lock set is on Amazon.
Thank you. Supposedly the German made Abus Grant is ‘cut proof’ and some Storage facilities require it.
Try looking up cabinet locks. Something like this is probably what you want. Make sure you're getting the right dimensions on the cylinder though.
maybe get this as a backup to ease ur mind while ur gone: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Viewing-Security-Recorder-Activated/dp/B07PGGYK47/
also if you have a desktop with a camera, you can maybe find some software that activates on motion sensing and alerts you via email or something while out of the house
> where can I find exploded diagram
There's only 4 moving parts and two springs, and you have all of them in the picture. I think you have all you need right there!
These are like the early 20th century equivalent of a cheap deadbolt with KW1 keyway. There's lots of small variations, and none of the parts will be interchangeable between brands, but they're all pretty much the same functionally. My old boss used to have milk crates full of those dang things, all the same design, none of them marked with a manufacturer, but about a dozen subtly different design incompatibilities that let you tell one manufacturer from another. About the only thing that's mostly in common is the knobs and spindles are usually interchangeable, and nearly all of them operate with the classic Lucky Line 87202 warded skeleton key set.
I lived in an apartment full of them, once. Stripped the paint of with naval jelly, repainted the cases, greased up the guts, and put 'em all back in. They're pretty cool when they work.
A simple door jam would work, and only works when your in the room.
You should be able to find one of these at any hardware store and you wouldn't have to modify the door at all. Then, have a conversation with your parents about boundaries and depending on how that goes, start looking for your own place.
Thank me later. The ones I have are different sort of but these are the same concept. Have many uses in the lock world! https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-70B-Scriber-Hardened-Diameter/dp/B00209XFVU/ref=asc_df_B00209XFVU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065539427&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16850724802996053740&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&am...
thats a good idea...I live in NYC so it will probably be expensive to do even that, but I will make some calls. I see some multilock cylinders on amazon for under $50 - are these bad? https://www.amazon.com/Mul-t-lock-Mortise-Cylinder-Security-Cylinder/dp/B07N96THWZ/ref=pd_cart_vw_crc_2_2/139-4589393-4587268?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07N96RSK1&pd_rd_r=7262e6f5-4dc8-489a-a5f1-ee073f471052&pd_rd_w=jTFdL&pd_rd_wg=PPd...
Thanks!
Amazon has rolls of the stuff and they're extremely low profile. One of our older vans had these https://www.amazon.com/PHOPOLLO-Waterproof-Changing-Controller-Decoration/dp/B07N1J8269/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=led+strip+lights&qid=1561220967&s=gateway&sprefix=led+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
I also saw these, looks like they're about 1/2" https://www.amazon.com/Albrillo-Cabinet-Lighting-Dimmable-Counter/dp/B07DGW61NJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_22_sspa?keywords=led+strip+lights&qid=1561221008&s=gateway&sprefix=led+&sr=8-22-spons&psc=1
This isn’t bad for the price we use $150 calipers and I’ve tried some of these in a pinch and they’re pretty comparable.
I'm an Industrial Designer so inventing and re-inventing is literally my job. The purpose of this locking mechanism will be to secure a door in a consumer product very similiar to a lockbox like this. Although this is not the product i'm designing, one aspect of it will be that of a locking door, so the load will be very minimal, a super strong lock is not needed. Security isn't a huge deal, I understand 4 roller combination locks can be brute forced quite easily but in this case something such as that does the job. I am not trying to re-invent a lock, but apply an existing locking mechanism into a new consumer product that I am inventing. The link you sent looks awesome but wouldn't fit my use case unfortunately. I'm looking for something essentially identical to what I linked by much smaller.
Cheers.
Take a look at these keys and see what you think. It's just sort of a thing that tons of manufacturers buy the same locks from the same lock suppliers so there's some crazy stat % of cabinets makeup boxes rv storage bins etc. that these keys will work for. https://www.amazon.com/Southco-CH751-Campers-Cabinets-Locks/dp/B001562UII
​
Without more info ie. pics of the lock it's gonna be real hard to help.
Here's instructions on resetting this particular lock:
A club is completely useless.
I can (or anyone) get through a club in about 5 seconds without damaging the car at all.
What id suggest is one of those hardened steel locks that goes on the clutch or brake pedal and has a dimple key. It can be cut with a grinder but that will take some time and attract attention. Something like this
I maintain a few hundred of these locks for the school district I work for. I strongly recommend a couple things. First, get the DB9 type serial programming cable rather than the USB one, they're just more reliable. Even if your machine running DL-Windows doesn't have an old timey serial port, a separate USB-to-DB9 adapter is way cheaper to replace if it craps out than the custom Alarm Lock USB all in one. Second, I strongly recommend picking up a Data Transfer Module for programming the locks. It not only conveniently comes with a CDROM with DL-Windows, It's also a lot easier to deal with than struggling with balancing a laptop with DL-Windows in one hand while punching in the programming code with the other. Pay no mind to the reviews on Amazon, they're the result of people struggling with DL-Windows rather than any shortcoming of the DTM.
Be prepared for a rather steep learning curve dealing with the idiosyncracies of DL-Windows. The software is basically the same interface as it was when it was introduced like 25 years ago, they've just kept adding more menus and buttons to handle additional features. I think the idea is that old timer locksmiths don't have to learn a new program.
Also, your 26 bit 125khz fobs with work just fine. All you need to do is type in the facility code and id code.
Feel free to message me or post here with DL-Windows or Alarm Lock questions.
Mortise locks and mortise latches are very different. The deadbolt doesn't come like their knobs with a 6 way latch. If it is a commercial steel door it is likely 2-3/4 backset but you need to measure. If it was retrofit into the door there was no indent in the door for a mortised latch face to be recessed and not rub the frame so they just drill a hole and use a drive in latch.
Better deadbolts come with a drive in ring adapter usually but a one piece drive in is always more reliable.
Kwikset 82735 2-3/4" Drive-in Deadbolt Latch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SEL8OZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RDhJBb9SK4T35
yep, here is a picture of what it probably is, sometimes they are sort of "pinned" where the little hole is at the end but it is just to keep them from sliding back and forth, may have seized a little bit. probably looks like this:
​
https://www.amazon.com/Reiss-Hardware-Split-Knob-Spindle/dp/B00DYUOJ8C
I have used this type of sander for decades, I have worn out a few of them. When they give me trouble I replace it right away. I use them for precision sanding in tight areas like door strikes. Faster, cleaner, and smoother than a rotary file. I have even used it for repairing tools, refinishing flat blade screwdrivers, sharpening knives, etc. As far a aluminum, it can be a little more difficult, but if you price the belts you can find generics rather inexpensive. I also just ordered a Abrasive Cleaning Eraser Stick from amazon for under $9.00 that is supposed to be good at cleaning sandpaper. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Accessory-Sandpaper-Skateboard-Woodworking-Perfection/dp/B08YCW8XZR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=MF2U7K8SB0M0&keywords=abrasive+cleaning+stick&qid=1668533228&sprefix=abrasive%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1I hope this helps. For me my tools have paid for themselves many times over. Some more than others. My belt sander is one tool that is more than others. Be well, Richard L.
Gotta visit the local swamp shaman for the proper potions.
Other than that, you can bring the lock cassette to a brick and mortar shop and see if they have a warded post key that can throw and retract the latch or even make your own key. They'll usually look like this:
Ford Fleet Keys. Commonly Keyed Alike Ford Fleet Key Set.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091M5MHCH?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_ESA2JJ9PAVJCA6ETF4XW
This set contains the most commonly used Ford fleet keys for Trucks, Vans, Taxi cabs, and Police Interceptors.
Keys in this set:1284X1294X1435X0151X0576X0135X1111X
For the holesaws that the other commentator was suggesting. I use them on fresh hollow metal installs and they are great for the strikes because the hole is very clean. (I carry 1", 1⅛ (rim/mortise cuts) and 2⅛)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I416TR4/
If I discover this on the ⅛" pilot hole drill, I'm breaking out one of the major latch/bolt mounting tabs and cutting it in.
https://www.majormfg.com/pc-62-11-for-tubular-latch-in-hollow-metal-door.asp
https://www.amazon.com/Major-S200-SPA-Secret-Gate-Latch/dp/B00J20RDZO
Is the only thing that is close to what you describe. The knob is a decoy and just spins, you push the side button to retract the latch. It's different from what you are asking for.
The only other thing is the master padlock that you push around in cardinal directions:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-1500iD-Directional-Combination/dp/B002TSN4SQ
Let me tell you about the magic of Blind nuts/rivnuts. They are the shit.
They are inserts that are threaded, usually I use 1/4 - 20 ones. They usually come with an install "jig" that collapse the insert and make a captured nut on the other side of the metal. I use them all the time on anything a screw pulled out of. Panic bar pulled out and some idiot used tapcons to hold it on? Blind nut. Door closer arm pulled out of the jam? Blind nut.
They aren't super cheap, but i would rather use one then have to put some ugly ass cover plate and attach the bar to that. Looks like you didn't do anything and they hold hella well.
You greatest risk is cutting, Master Pro series with Boron shackle gives good protection. If you have room for the protected shackle design, that is the best. See Master pro series 6321
Obligatory I AM NOT A LAWYER.
You might get away with a security bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T9ZTFRD but it might be construed as a lock addition.
Instead I would recommend you get some cheap surveillance cameras. Put them in SUPER obvious places, like outside directly above your front door, inside on the wall straight across from the front door and pointing straight at it... like right in the middle of the wall so it's impossible to miss. You can even clear out a big space around it so it's just the camera in a large empty patch of wall, stuff like that.
People are so much less likely to commit any kind of offense when they're on camera, it's almost silly. That's why the cameras can be cheap: they aren't really for recording anything happening, they're for deterring anything from happening in the first place.
Also, get some evidence and contact the police. Put your phone in your shirt pocket camera facing out (or get one of those spy camera pens) and record him doing something, then you can take his ass to court and get a restraining order and maybe even get him fired to boot. Probably, at least. Again, IANAL.
Phased out? Changing locks leaving holes?
3 options. DonJo round blank plates maybe, but if cylinder to thumb turn are offset, glue in black plastic plugs (maybe 626 or 605 plugs). or order mortise locks with ESCUTCHEONS to hide sectional preps. Order escutcheons less lock body and fix existing correctly.
In the uk they are known as rim locks, not very secure as normally only have 1 lever, that's why it's such a basic key
As an absolute bare minimum I would read and understand This book cover to cover, from there at least a passing understanding of local fire, building codes and low voltage electronics are an absolute must.
From there I would strongly suggest figuring out if you will be residentially, commercially or automotively focused.
For what it's worth, this question is like asking "So I have an adjustable wrench, no knowledge but will be opening a full service mechanic, anything else I should know?" your question is so broad and the premise is a bit absurd.
So you perhaps have much more specific questions we could attempt to answer?
Will something like [this](www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000TAQZY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QXFM3REENP0CCYXN4PN8) do without needing to alter the door? It’s a rental, plus I don’t want to spend a lot fixing this so I was hoping to change it myself. Don’t need crazy security, just something to keep kids out.
https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-16-126-Replacement-Deadlatch-Square/dp/B003MHVCD2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=schlage+5+backset&qid=1654439180&sr=8-5 get this and a regular Schlage doorknob. You're all set.
$500 for hardware is dumb for this unless you are in a commercial setting or something. You can purchase a schlage 5" backset for $20 off of amazon and then use it with a multitude of different levers
Without cutting or drilling? Maybe not. There are locks that work on e.g. display cases where the front is two overlapping sliding glass sheets. This is such a lock. A larger version would work on your sliding doors. I don't know if anyone makes one, but it's an idea.
Difficulty, that still leaves you with a door that can just be lifted up and out. You'd need to add a jamb on the sides to prevent that.
All jimmy proofs in the US are garbage to one degree or another but for this they would be fine.
Segal also makes one that may or may not be better, I don't have any experience with one. If you need an actual nice one, I think MulTLock makes them or you could probably get a decent Yale one.
The keys used in Kwikset Smartkey locks are just regular Kwikset keys. There's nothing special about the keys, the special part of the lock is being able to stick a pin/tool in the hole in the front to change the keying. The keys can be copied at any hardware store for like $3.
When you buy the smartkey locks, they will come with a set of keys, so if your rental home has several different locks (front door, back door, deadbolts, garage, etc), you automatically get 3-5 sets of keys when you buy the locks. Rekey all the locks to one of the keys, and give those to your tenant, but make sure to make a copy for yourself. You have to have the current working key to the lock in order to rekey it to a new key.
You can buy premade kwikset keys off the shelf for when you want to rekey to another key.
I use kwikset for rental properties, and have 10 sets of keys that I rotate through. I stamped them A thru J with a metal stamp. Also, you can get padlocks that use the same kwikset keys. Can be convenient if you want to lock up a gate or shed or whathave you, and not have to worry about carrying around a 2nd key.
A lot of locksmiths here don't like Kwikset Smartkeys, because sometimes they can jam up while rekeying, and they have to be drilled out and rekeyed. But that isn't super common, I use Kwikset smart keys quite a bit and haven't had a problem with them.
This chain lock that can be locked when leaving is probably your best bet. Except when the in-laws try to enter, they'll know you installed it.
Mostly all they care about is that they have a key.
If that is a Kwikset you have there...
You could get THIS And the physical cylinder gets "programmed" to the same key you have now.
So Thier access doesn't really change. More convenient for you... Everybody's happy.
Just save the old one to put back if you move.
It's Amazon.
Hers the entire link so you can see it.
But.. Kwikset smart key comes in both electronic and traditional..
This is just an example.
If you actually go in the store home Depot or something.. they'll even help you get your key programmed.
Kwikset 99070-103 Powerbolt 2 Door Lock Single Cylinder Electronic Keyless Entry Deadbolt Featuring SmartKey Security in Venetian Bronze
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VLO7KYS/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_355FGMGNG4S04C7J2FRQ
Amazon has the same latch but branded as Weiser Weiser 804316 Weiser New Style Adj Deadlatch Dull Chrome https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00PYSD2BM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X3VC3ZY1PCJNSHB06AA1
Can't seem to find one that takes a square spindle :/
In the past when faced with this kind of issue, and customer unwilling to spend the money for one reason or another I've used the lip portion of an in swing blocker plate. It's not perfect but it gets the job done and judging by that pic that's all you're really looking for here.
These worked great for me with all three of my kids, mounted them at the top of the door.
National Hardware N238-972 V800 Sliding Door Latch in Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPAJ8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y8X87Q8KXK9CX51TC3CJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Probably with these. I ran into a similar situation when working on the main entry to a Sears. Of course Sears didn't carry long allen wrenches.
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-25445-L-Wrenches-12-Inch-Long/dp/B095XC8Y7Q?th=1
I get calls for this in my community all the time. It is always tough. basically as a rule of thumb we will not put double cylinder deadbolts on Front doors, or any door that will likely be an emergency exit.
we get senior couples where one spouse has dementia and the other wants to lock themselves in their house at night and we have to kindly tell them why we won't do it.
we've had people want us to put double cylinders on bedroom doors that they want to lock while they are asleep!
we have had a lot of luck with this. and now carry a couple in our stores just for these inquiries. it is cheap, portable and you can move it around the house.
SMART CAREGIVER TL-5102MP Motion Sensor And Pager https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BMASJM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YMQ6TP0HH5SSTKY4MMGN
you can set it up outside a bedroom door while they are sleeping, or in a hallway..
If you are looking for one to match this looks like a Master lock single sided also comes in double sided.
One half is flat and the other has a 'Hook'. One, the flat one, slides out allowing space for the other lift up , clear the hook and slide out Here's a picture Split Knob Spindle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYUOJ8C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_7XBVN8ERT29AVDPCM39Q
You can buy it here.
VEVOR Propane Melting Furnace 6KG, 2462°F Metal Foundry Furnace Kit with Graphite Crucible and Tongs, Casting Melting Smelting Refining Precious Metals Like Gold Silver Aluminum Copper Brass Bronze (6KG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QQ63V7W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_B01M9MRJRH7YDZ36S2XV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I am not a locksmith/door hardware guy. You may be able to use a deadbolt reinforcing plate to cover up the exposed wood. If you are still concerned about the hole itself, you may be able to find a dustbox (shown in the exploded view) which will fill the hole and make it look better.
If you buy a really cut resistant and drill resistant lock for a storage unit, you're basically going to get the opposite effect. If you lose the keys then it will cost more than normal to get it removed. If I was someone who robbed storage facilities and scoped them out first, yours would be a high priority target if you have a big, fancy, expensive lock on it. Someone who doesn't care about damaging things can cut around your nice lock and get in.
My advice is blend in as well as you can with all the other cheapo disk locks and don't make your unit stand out. If you want to have a better lock than the one that they sell then you could go for the Abus 26/70.
Why dont they out the key in a faraday pouch and hide the pouch. Carry a mechanical key to unlock the door after their activities. https://www.amazon.com/Blocking-ONEVER-Protection-Anti-Tracking-Anti-Spying/dp/B07BQM75MH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=rfid+blocking+pouch&qid=1647662149&sr=8-3
Master keying by the numbers. This is a hard book to find and there is a newer version I have. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Keying-Numbers-Edwards-Billy-B/dp/B003VZXSLY
Yeah, the cost is a little steep on those, but that's how a lot of trade pubs are. I saw this one in the related section, $10 aint bad at all and you may want that one after completing the other anyway. If you can already write up a KBA and know the fundamentals, might want to just try this one out and see if you even need the intro stuff.
This is a good solid solution if you jump/boost cars often. It's also a bit safer. Can't get the polarity mixed up on the preconnected end. Also when you connect/disconnect sparking happens at the connector not by the battery.
Here's a complete ready to install kit. Can't vouch for this particular product but you get the idea there's quite a few options out there. Search for wrecker jump cables or permanent jump cables.
https://www.amazon.com/32FT-QUICK-CONNECT-JUMPER-BOOSTER-CABLE/dp/B07V39PSVN/
I recommend this one. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB50-UltraSafe-Lithium-Gasoline/dp/B07MVY7K43/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=jump+box&qid=1647542434&sr=8-9 A dealer who I see sometimes has one and it provides long continuous good amperage voltage. I bought a 100 dollar one from costco and it drains too fast for how heavy it is, plus lead acid cells degrade probably twice as fast.
Wire a connecter like this from your battery and install one end on your bumper. Buy nice fat long jumper cables cut the clamps off an end and put the other connector in their place. Make sure your connections are solid and proper. Lol no safety here for chucklefucks and sizzletits.
What kind of cabinet do you have? I use POSSPO cabinet lock ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0953LHCKW ) for my cabinet with double handles. It does NOT require drilling screws. But it needs to work with cabinets with double handles or knobs as it uses a chain and two padlocks to lock the cabinet. I use it to prevent my kids away from the cleaning products in my kitchen cabinet. Not sure if this will help you as POSSPO cabinet lock can only work on cabinets with double door handles or knobs.
Do you have a bunch of file cabinets keyed the same? Most times, Just replace and give out new keys. If the back doesn't have a screw than, no you can't rekey them.
You'll have to look around for that specific cam. You need to know the length of the cam body and the type of cam (hook). You'll never find one with the exact key.
I'd lay money they're not using anything out of that picture except the keypad. Those cheap piece of shit keypads have an onboard relay that lets you run the entire shit-show from the keypad (see pic of the back). All you need is 12v in, Common and NO out. Why install a $12 power supply in the basement when you can scab on bridge rectifier right there in the strike hole? Bring a lawn chair, you can do the whole job sitting down, and you'll still have that $12 power supply to sell to the next guy for $50!
I use these and another one from Amazon. They might help! https://www.amazon.com/Inventory-Control-Clips-Slatwall-Gridwall/dp/B078DF9T6X/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3GTY9SZ2I7FBR&keywords=peg+hook+stoppers&qid=1646282825&sprefix=peg+hook+stopp%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-4
HOLY CRAP this is so frikkin cool!
Check this link from Amazon. I mean it's $165 but is it a knock off?? I'm not cheap when it comes to tools but I'll buy that right now if it's genuine.
Dual Lens Endoscope with 5" Monitor, Teslong NTS500 Industrial Waterproof Borescope Inspection Camera with 0.21in Front & Side-View Double Lens with 9.8FT Probe, 5-Inch IPS LCD Screen & Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQ4FLYX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_FZQ5C2DG2Q6RQ13T980R
It’s a super cheap real estate keybox. Dial the combo and you can open the door to take the key out. What looks like a padlock shackle clamps it to a door knob.
For fresh how, yes. A pilot drill hole may also help. But it sounds like you're catching an edge, even pressure perpendicular to the surface.
If you are doing rebores, this is why I use the jig or boards to keep my holesaw from skating across the door.
Last bit, for punching strikes in frames, I highly recommend these style holesaws:
It's usually possible to buy just the bolt piece. If it's an expensive lock it's worth it (like an electric lock). It would be something like this.
It basically looks like this with a lid.
Its not just forgetfulness. I'm sometimes too depressed to leave my house. I have a designated spot next to my car (as does everyone) it's where everyone keeps their bins.
Also if I'm honest it would be absolutely delightful if I could control the lock from my phone, as then I could watch her walk all the way up to it through the window, and lock it remotely with a look of utter glee on my face as she realises she can't just do whatever she wants :')
Buy an entry door knob and install it yourself. It's pretty straight forward, you can look up videos on YouTube.
I'm in the US so idk if this is available there but I found these. torsion springthe FM-MSPJ-wojuan option looks very similar to the broken torsion spring you have there.
Stainless Wiha sets. The cases are made such that when you swing one wrench out, the whole row swings out so they're all easily accessible.