It sounds like a device that is or was connected to your network at some point. I fyou have network ddiscovery turned on Windows will connect "Media devices" so you can share music and videos quickly. If you've had a friend use your network with their computer recently (or have a weak wifi password) that could be a remnant of them. Alternatively if you connected to another wifi network it could be that computer.

To get rid of it, check out this webpage.

Press Windows key + E on the keyboard to open Computer folder. Click on Computer Tab on the top. Click on Access Media in the ribbon. Click on Disconnect from Media server and follow the onscreen instructions.

You can download a disk from here (https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows7). If it is a laptop that came preinstalled or from the store, the key should probably be on the bottom of the laptop. Just burn that iso to a disk or make a bootable USB and reinstall. That would be the best option.

Edit: if it's 64 bit, http://msft.digitalrivercontent.net/win/X17-58997.iso

Hey /u/VelinDraklew http://pogostick.net/~pnh/ntpasswd/main.html this is what you want, you can add users to admin group or even just remove account passwords, the page has all the info for putting it on a usb, if you cant understand it google for "Make bootable usb"

You get a male/female 3.0 usb cord.

https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B085FVG9FG/ref=sr_1_9?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2I7A47OGZKWTL&keywords=times+female+usb+3.0&qid=1660582676&sprefix=male+female+usb+3.0+%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-9

Something like this. You need to find one with the right lenght for you but thats the right config.

Norton is a piece of trash that relies on scare tactics to keep you hooked. Don’t ever let anything touch your Registry. Windows Defender is all you need.

I read further down that you rely on Norton VPN, but Norton VPN is one of the worst VPNs that you could choose. Get Windscribe or ProtonVPN instead. Norton overall is a trash company.

https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-T-Force-3200MHz-PC4-25600-Desktop/dp/B08NVQZ9XQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?adgrpid=85582832310&gclid=CjwKCAiAprGRBhBgEiwANJEY7H30J6iAaGydZm6MKLVRUkkS5FYz9T2fVWLno1aB6kdxKWN6Y9IHQhoCfFQQAvD_BwE&hvadid=585362632512&...

I dont fucking know how much a pound worths but here 2 seconds of searching and you can find it

Do you need a mousepad? Most optical mice these days don't really need a pad. I use a desktop cover, it covers the entire desk, has a nice writing surface and works well for mouse usage. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PHKVX2J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love it!

Do you mean the fans plug directly into a molex connector from the power supply? If so those molex connectors only have 12V and 5V available. Could it be that Linus rewired the fans between the 5V and 12V leads? That sounds like a terrible idea to me because the return current is forced backwards into the 5V output of the power supply. You might get away with it if there is enough current already being drawn from the 5V rail to accommodate this but I still don't like the idea. Better I think to buy a proper fan controller which drops the voltage in a more controlled way. You can get them from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-FC-08BKV2-Six-Fan-Controller/dp/B0098WEQ6U/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2DVIO25084YW8&keywords=fan%2Bcontroller&qid=1645392132&s=electronics&sprefix=fan%2Bcontrollers%2Celectronics%2C40&sr=1-11&th=1 and there are more discrete internal versions available too.

Read this, it explains why it needs to shut down. And this explains why everything is back after turning it back on.

Yes, this is possible with AutoHotKey

First of all, install that from the link above (if given a choice choose the one with unicode support)

Now create a file called whatever you want, but make sure the extension is .ahk and insert this code:

SingleInstance force

Persistent

Insert:: Send {U+2014} return

This will map the insert key to send the em dash.

Heres my reccomendation Cheaper setup- GTX 1660 SUPER(6GBVRAM)

RYZEN 5 3000

8X2(2 STICKS 8 GIGABYTES)

CASE- https://www.amazon.com/MOROVOL-Irregular-Computer-Pre-Installed-704-N2/dp/B0995QXPKR/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Computer+Cases&qid=1639841308&s=pc&sr=1-5&ts_id=572238

SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS ONE

POWERSUPPLY-850 WATTS

Coolers (get any) HDD-2 TERRABYTES SSD 250 GB

Monitor TESLA 27MT600BF 27INCH

Expensive

Graphics card-Rtx 3060

Ryzen 9 3000

16x2 (2 STICKS 16 GB)

CASE

https://www.amazon.com/MOROVOL-Irregular-Computer-Pre-Installed-704-N2/dp/B0995QXPKR/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Computer+Cases&qid=1639841308&s=pc&sr=1-5&ts_id=572238

SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS ONE

POWERSUPPLY-1000 WATTS COOLERS-ANY MEMORY HDD-5 TERRABYTES SSD-400 GB

If you have issues trusting in the safety of your system after you did all of these things, make a bootable drive with Dariks Boot and Nuke https://dban.org/ or any other good wipe tool and reinstall windows.

Run WhoCrashed to analyze the crash dump generated by Windows from the most recent blue screen, and it will tell you what failed. Usually it's a driver issue. If it's in a game, I would bet it's a graphics card driver incompatibility. If you recently updated the driver, try installing the previous version instead and see if it still crashes.

Try downloading WhoCrashed and upload the results of your crash dump here. I'm about to sign off for the night but when you get those I'll try to get it figured out.

Ok I got to the bottom of it , she installed this program on my PC (https://bestxsoftware.com/index.html) now my question is if this app is actually legit or is it maybe sending the data to someone online?

Sounds like you need to reinstall windows from scratch after doing some drive tests.

Hirens provides the tools to scan the drive, you'll need to create a bootable usb drive. I use Rufus for this.

I have a laptop too and I experience overheating issues constantly. Unfortunately, there's not much you can do. I installed HWMonitor, that monitors the temperature of your graphic card and CPU. If you see CPS's temperature going over 60°C and the graphic card's going over 80°C I suggest you stop doing anything that requires a lot of resources and you turn off the PC. FPS drops are caused by the PC realizing that it is overheating, so it locks fps. Pretty much just remove overlays when you don't need them, lock fps at the refresh rate of your monitor (probably 60hz) - you are not going to notice much difference between 90 and 60 fps on 60 Hz monitors anyways - and alt+tab out of the game to check temperatures. Download HWMonitor here https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html. (I know that the website looks suspicious but it's safe trust me, it's only a little rough to make it so that the software itself is not heavy on the RAM or CPU when it runs in the background.

The tool could be wrong. Try another tool like CrystalDiskInfo and see what that reports. I somehow don't think any modern drive can write that much in a standard configuration.

It is a i5- 9400f processor, gtx 1650, 8 gb ssd 256 gb ssd currently. No clue on the rest it’s unfortunately a prebuilt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XLPC52C/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_A15TN2KEGQ7Y57DN2TNF

Np! I went through 3 docks in total trying to troubleshoot it and ended up with the Corsair TBT100 Dock

This is the TB3 cable I bought. I did try 2 or 3 thunderbolt cables in total hoping that they were the issue at first. All of them were TB3 cables certified for 4k+ displays and I believe 40Gpbs speeds.

Your RAM should match. In most cases the brand doesn't matter, but what does it both the ram speed (measured in mhz) and the timings (listed as XX-XX-XX-XX or XX-XX-XX depending on the brand). If you have mismatched timings between your RAM, you will have issues in latency. If your speed is different, the system will usually try to run them both at the lowest common speed. Your processor supports DDR3 at 1333mhz or 1600mhz.

The other things to check: Some sticks or RAM will be OEM specific. This can cause issues in both speed and even usability. Also, is the ram Buffered (ECC) or Unbuffered (Non-ECC)?

Yeah, the hard drive connectors are standardized. Just take them out and use something like this to simply connect them. Find out why the PCs won’t power up though, if it’s because of a disk error then you’ll have a bigger problem.

(Disclaimer: The product I linked is the first result for “external sata connector” on Amazon. Please do a bit of your own research before buying anything.)

if i use this https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Aluminium-Topoint-External-Converter/dp/B01KJS1W1I/ref=pd_sim_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01KJS1W1I&pd_rd_r=9ZK2AHD80HEEHBBMW9AN&pd_rd_w=MuBER&pd_rd_wg=rCQCB&refRID=9ZK2AHD80HEEHBBMW9AN&th=1

and plug another monitor into my HDMI port, will I have 3 monitors?

It looks like it has a x16 slot and a 330w PSU now, so upgrading to this PSU should cover a 970 or less. As for the GPU, you can install any card that will physically fit, so I recommend you open your case and measure the length from the back of your case to the drive supports. If you could give me a hard limit for a PSU and GPU, I could give a better recommendation.

Yes, you could install another sound card in a PCI/PCIe slot or a USB - Amazon UK USB - Amazon US

After researching for a few days, it would seem what I am looking for does not exist.

There was this but it does not do them both at the same time.

Oh well.

I'm not sure if I misread or skipped over the temperatures originally, but 45 idle and 80 load is just a bit on the high sid of regular, especially if you're using a stock heatsink. You may want to look into an aftermarket heatsink such as the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. You can also look in your BIOS for something along the lines of "Emergency Shutdown Temperature" or "Safety Shutdown Temperature" and raise it higher (the standard is 100c, your mobo may just be set low).

As the title says, I just put this card into my HP Pavilion 17-E118DX which is running Win 8.1 and I receive "Can't connect to this network" when trying to connect to my Linksys E2500's 5GHz wifi which is set on WPA2 Personal. (Before I added the new card, the laptop couldn't even see that channel, so I guess this is an improvement :p )

We tried lots of things in the other thread, and then it went quiet, can y'all fix it?

Let me know if you need more info, thanks!

EDIT: The issue seems to have been inadvertently corrected when I flipped the security to WEP to see if if would connect (it did) then back to WPA2 Personal. It connects just fine now.