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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/RCPlanes:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/RCPlanes:
Banggood
Cults.
Gmail
Inkscape
Windy
The Noun Project
The most popular reviews in /r/RCPlanes:
Check something like this out: 6pcs Tattu 3.7V 380mAh 1S LiPo Battery with Molex Plug and 6-Port Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N74S3LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QF30DbF49BDF9 These chargers charge the battery in 30-45 minutes or so, and are nice and cheap. It's the same connector as well.
Soldering is pretty easy to learn and there are some really cheap kits via Amazon or eBay if ya look like this
Found the motor on Banggood. Suitable propellors: 1047,1060,9050. So the prop you have is good.
In another comment you mentioned the ESC gets hot as soon as you plug it in, so I think you need to replace the ESC.
Does your charger tell you how much energy (mAh) it puts back into the battery?
If not, most people have a simple $10 lipo capacity checker which can tell you how much is left in your battery after a flight. They're mainly used to check that batteries are fully charged before flying (so you don't get confused about which ones you've used) but they're also useful to work out if you can fly a bit longer.
BTW, you'll probably gain a minute or so if you remove the landing gear.
3 volts is not enough. Although, for a chuck glider it wouldn’t be the end of the world if they died suddenly. It won’t hurt to try. AAA batteries would work just fine since most people have them lying around, but, they are heavy for this application. There are better options, however. A small single cell lipo would be lightweight and last forever for your purpose. Or, 2 3 volt lithium batteries would be fantastic as well.
The motor is strapped in place with wire in lack of other options at hand. Seems to be attached ok.
Thanks for the tip on 1045, would that be something like this?
With the current prop it can barely pull itself forward on the ground.
I’ve been using this Amazon speed controller in some foamie builds for over a year now. Never had any issues with one.
I bought the servos here. They are rated to run off of a 5v BEC which is what I did. I also noticed that I had ran the aileron servo at a higher frequency than what it was rated for. Maybe that is why it blew up?
Here's a simple set of test results I found, there are lots of others if you google. At 3s, a 5" prop resulted in a 4amps, and a 6" prop 6.4amps. This was for a 1800kv motor, so your results will be higher. I believe that the power goes up with the square of the Kv, so about 20% higher.
> I think the higher the volts the less amps it draws
Yes, but also no ;-)
You can get the same power at lower current by increasing the voltage, but only if you reduce the prop or Kv to keep the power constant. If you just increase the voltage, the motor will spin faster, make more power and pull more current.
Adding 33% more voltage (and not changing the motor or prop) will increase the current 33% and the power by about 75% (1.33 * 1.33 = 1.76)
Most multimeters can only measure up to 10amps, if you need more, there are lots of fairly cheap wattmeters designed for RC use. (That link was just the first google result, not a recommendation for that particular brand)
just need a trainer, start with a park flyer and moove up. I have had a couple of dings with my UMX Turbo but glue it up with some ca and ur good. Start with something like this and buzz your friends....https://www.amazon.com/Airplane-Fly%EF%BC%8C350mm-Wingspan-Aircraft-Beginners/dp/B084GS3J4S/ref=asc\_df\_B084GS3J4S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416636447221&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2147449885596290862&hvpone=&hvpt...
This is the link for them. https://www.amazon.com/JFtech-14000KV-Brushless-Version-AirPlane/dp/B078VVF5ZC/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=mini+edf&qid=1620135706&sr=8-2
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I wanna try to make a really small jet with 2 of them. Not sure what esc to use. Are they crap?
Have you tried a prop saver adapter? Strong rubber bands hold the prop, in a crash the prop simply moves out of the way (no breaks).
If you have NiMH AA batteries, you can solder them together and make a battery pack (or just buy a new receiver pack). If they are alkaline batteries, you can buy a 4 cell AA holder and use that. Something like this (you will need to solder a connector to it though) https://www.amazon.com/1-5V-Batteries-Battery-Holder-Leads/dp/B085VS14TY/
[jst-ph charging board ](http://Check this out at Amazon.com Innovateking 2S 7.4V LiPo Parallel Charging Board JST-PH2.0 3-Pin 4.0mm Banana Plug 2S LiPo Battery Charge Board for Balance Charger Imax B6 etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CBZM587/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_DeQqFbHQFYG7A
Adding on to what you are saying, I would suggest getting a good voltage checker which will tell you the percentage of your lipo battery. here is one of the best ones out there. If you get this, I would suggest that you don’t let the batter go below 20% - 25% to ensure your battery stays healthy. Also just if you are wondering, 4.2 volts is a fully charged battery and 3.6 volts is a battery around 10% left.
Also like the other dude said, only balance charge your battery. Keeping all of your cells balanced will increase your batteries life by up to like 3 years so I highly suggest it.
Oh yeah I did need that picture.
Get yourself a caliper and confirm the size of that shaft and see if you find something similar to this in that size. Probably the best I can think of off the cuff. Ill keep it in mind though
10 Pcs 3mm Hole Metal Brushless Propeller Prop Saver Adapter with Rubber O Rings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079G961MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fy1gFbPKZZ0DG
Here’s one I found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/E-flite-EFL2734-Motor-Mount-Apprentice/dp/B0019M3CWG
Here’s an aluminum one as well which looks like it’d be very durable: http://www.customrcparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_19_20_68&products_id=6&zenid=hqp5a6kp0p56ef80hogae5rn91
I’d personally go with the metal one for the durability factor.
Ye I just need to know if the cheap charger will work well with this LiPo https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-2250mAh-Airplane-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B09WDF71TZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=10MM9A73WO8L8&keywords=SIGP+3S+Lipo+Battery+2250mAh+11.1V+25C+with+XT60+Plug+for+RC+Airplane+Quadcopter+Helicopter+Drone+FPV+Racing+...
I made a "Water Balloon Launcher" out of surgical tubing and duct tape. Launched a rock ductaped to a string and was able to get it on the third try at 85-100ft.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Launcher-Slingshot-Catapult-T-shirts-Snowball/dp/B07FC89NXT?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Hey. Am not OP but when you talk about the A160, is it this kit? My (37M) dad is getting on a bit now (75) and his hands are struggling to do the Airfix he used to love so I thought flying models might get him out of the house a bit and spend a bit more time with him. UK is always a bit windy and I was looking at an all-in-one warbird kit like this.
Problem is I bought him a flying model (like the warbird) about a decade ago and on maiden flight he lifted off, banked gently left and stuffed it in to a clock tower, permanently grounding it. As a result, whilst I don't mind spending that sort of cash again, it'd be nice to know it was stable and was somewhat repairable...
These external nav lights are the brightest I've seen and I totally recommend them. I bought 4 sets and they charge via usb cable which is included. Yeah, I've thought about upgrading my sts to ss. But with all the ss crashes I've heard by pilots, I'm thinking it might be nice to have my sts around for backup. Also, even though many parts are interchangeable, some are different. The fuse, hatch, edf unit, esc and gear are all different. I'm already using the AR631 receiver with the ss file in my sts.
I think that hardware would be a big bulky/heavy for an indoor flyer. Indoor flying usually means slow and light. I highly doubt you need a 30amp controller for an indoor plane. What wingspan and target weight are you shooting for? Is it going to be something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Electric-Wingspan-Tail-Pusher-Transmitter/dp/B07CDDGDT4
It appears to use a 10A controller and 2.5g servos.
The esc should have a low voltage cuttoff, where after the battery reaches a certain voltage, the motor will pulse. You can also get a lipo alarm which plugs into the balance lead, and beeps loudly when the plane hits a certain voltage.
You're going to need to do a lot more design work first. Those requirements are too broad.
Do you need it to go 50km away and return (100km total)? Or, land after flying for 50km total?
As it's VTOL, T>W, so you need to know the UAV weight.
Your drag at cruise speed (45kts) will enable you to calculate your power drain on the battery.
But, to do all of this you need an actual design, so you know the Lift, Weight and Drag.
If you are at University/College, get the linked book from the library. If they don't have it, get them to buy it https://www.amazon.co.uk/Small-Unmanned-Fixed-wing-Aircraft-Design/dp/1119406293/ref=asc_df_1119406293/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310848077451&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12607945284663585333&hvpone=&hvptwo=&...
>RadioMaster Zorro
Probably will end up going with this. So do these types of controllers include anything else that needs to connect to the plane? I'm looking through all the plane parts I have and I feel like I'm missing like a receiver module of some sort. I'm guessing the controller will include that thing but I'm looking at this Zorro in particular and it looks like it's just a controller https://www.amazon.com/RadioMaster-Controller-Transmitter-Multi-Protocol-Batteries/dp/B09YMTLSZP/
Well if you can bind a Elrs to either built in or external module that support ELrs. Get Betafpv make receiver need to connect to a module either internal or external. Need to be same version. Make a habit. You plane flyer. Keep you're internal module if its elrs or external 3.0. And receiver 3.0 and will bind beautiful. The great of 3.0 is all ch is same resolution. You can make you're own higher channel. If you know how to solder. Here is what i have and if you see review give you more info notice I am the one review? I had issue as a new comer to elrs. Didn't know freaking version of module and receiver need to be exactly the same. So read it will help. :) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WHLJ2GN?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
An Eachine ROTG02 or similar like this looks like a webcam to an Android phone and there are free apps that allow you to view the signal. it will even double it so you can look at it with google cardboard. So if you have an android phone this might be a quick way to get into the air.
My first FPV experience was with an all in one like that and I found if it was too close to the motor it would interfere so much that it didn't work at all. I only found out after I had glided for quite a while and then turned on the motor when I got closer to the ground only to lose signal! Fun times.
No problem! I never had one myself, I remember wanting one in the early 90s when I was just learning to fly. I went with a Goldberg Mirage 550 instead though because it was what my instructor had.
Here's a good ESC for this combo. I'm using this same ESC in my Mirage 550 (yes it's still flying) with an Astro 05 motor and 2S 2100MAh lipo packs. It's great because you no longer need an RX pack so that's a lot of weight savings.
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I do have the ElectriCub Mk II, the kit they came out with after this one. I'll build it some day.
I absolutely love these
https://www.amazon.com/Control-Compatible-Airplane-Replacement-Ltvystore/dp/B082CM5WQX
Why not just build a plane using foam board, and get some cheap components like these
https://www.amazon.com/FPVKing-Brushless-Controller-Propeller-Helicopter/dp/B0855QMNCK
I've been using these specific components for a long time, and surprisingly, they are very robust and they last. The only thing that I've broken is propellers.
I ended up ordering this battery: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08S3Q8J8J?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
I checked my goggles and unfortunetly they do not tell me voltage but my flysky fs-i6 does tell me the voltage on the plane, I dont think my transmitter provides any type of audio que tho. The other comment explained beuatifully how to understand voltage. For this battery then I will be fine with the 20amp esc as this is rated for 30c. Aditionally the total voltage I can drain this is down too 10.2V as fully maxxed out state is 11.1 V. I hope that made sense lol
This was super helpful thank you!
first thing first i tested soley the fpv system, it was a self contained fpv system and I simply attached the wire to the wire one uses to charge the battery. and after some playing around i got a good quality stream going on.
As for the connectors, I saw this on amazon would this do the job allowing me to plug in a battery with an XT60 plug?
Aditionally for the voltage alarm, from my understanding you plug that into the cable that you use to charge the battery itself. however that same cable I plug in my FPV headset into. so in this case what should i do?
Thank you so much!
on a plane like this, you dont need to use superglue. Superglue tends to wick into everything around it, and it's most likely that the glue got into the servos. They are probably repairable, but 9G servos are literrally all over amazon for dirt cheap. I would recommend you use a hot-melt glue gun to glue the servo's into the wing. I have done this on all my foamies, and It works fine. This is not a large high-powered jet or 3D plane, so the load on the servo's is not that great. Hot melt works fine, and it also allows for the servo's removal from the airframe should you choose to. Superglue is hella bad for servos. I have had great luck with these servos
A good place to start might be the Flite Test Tiny Trainer if you have access to foam board. It uses a smaller motor than the one you linked to, but if you can't get it cheaper there's no point.
Otherwise I'd suggest finding what you want to build first and then picking a power system.
That said, something like this would be suitable for a 500g-700g trainer: https://www.amazon.ca/Brushless-Parameters-Propeller-Helicopter-Aircraft00/dp/B09233CV8D/ref=sr_1_18?crid=IKSFK7Y0E5EZ&keywords=Brushless+motor+2212&qid=1661055046&s=toys&sprefix=brushless+motor+2212%2Ctoys%2C195&sr=1-18
I'm not sure where you're shopping, but I've been using these in several different planes. They're just fine, and $1 less than what you're looking at. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0881SFP18?ref=nb\_sb\_ss\_w\_as-reorder-t1\_ypp\_rep\_k0\_1\_4&amp&crid=3KAZNNZC4MR9T&amp&sprefix=ia6b
Glad to see an in-depth comment like this, here are some responses I have:
- I have an adaptor on the prop, the glue is backing it up. the prop is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YYV9Q2X?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
- I may try experimenting with putting the battery in different positions, I did do that a bit in the past and it may help
- The plane appeared to me to be front heavy, I did test it a little, maybe I should check more idk
- The motor does often come loose. I will probably try to screw it down.
Thanks for the feedback, I will look into the things you said.
This was the closest I could find. HobbyKing have a pretty good set of filters on their motors, so you can set a range for the size and kv.
Be careful with the sizes though, some motors use the stator size (the coils), some the overall size.
I tried searching for 'bixler motor' and google suggested this. Here the size is for the coils, which is why it looks smaller, but if you read the spec, it says:
> Motor Part Size : 25 x 28mm
Which is pretty close.
These are pretty standard cheap Chinese motors and are widely available from loads of different sellers, under a variety of names.
Amazon, I can send you the link. EDF Link
nope these chargers that use only the balance plug charge charge each cell separately which means that each cell will charge at a .8A rate which is under 1c for you battery. an 1800mah battery can be safely charged up to 1.8A which is 1c for this battery with your current charger you charge at .8A it does not mean that the battery will not be fully charged just that it would take longer to charge it. also 800mah per cell would not be too much because each cell of a lipo is the same amount of mah as it is written on the lipo do for your battery each cell is 1800mah and lipo's are wired in series which makes the voltage higher but not the mah of it. you should get a good smart charger too as soon as possible the charger that you have is not really good and should be avoided unless you have no other choices this one would be a good choice https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Balance-Charger-Discharger-Detachable/dp/B08LSPZGRW/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=ISDT&qid=1656865657&sr=8-9 it is ac and dc so you will be able to charge batteries at the flying field and it goes up to 8A so you could charge 4 2000mah batteries in parallel and be in its amp rating to have a fairly fast charge.
if you can, return it and get a fs-i6
Forward facing is a GoPro Hero 8. Side facing is a Runcam2 4K. Both were attached with Velcro tape.
For the gopro I velcroed a normal action cam slide mount at roughly the center of gravity. The velcro was cut into two pieces so the wings could still separate. The runcam was velcroed directly onto the underside of the wing. Being directly attached to the wing wasn't a great angle, a mount that hangs the camera a few inches below would be better.
radiomaster recievers are ass. On mine, one time the motor started up by itself, even when I had the throttle cut on. As for budget recievers, these are pretty great.
Get a crimper and the required bits and pieces (you can get the whole thing on Amazon for like 15 EUR, including crimper) and then you'll be able to fix stuff like this easy. No need to worry at all then! Here you go:
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https://www.amazon.de/Crimping-Pliers-Dupont-Connector-2030/dp/B07VGF34KX
i gues i just thought smaller would be safer incase it crashed and i wont destroy something if i hit it with a tiny plane
here is the plane i got its such a pain in the ass nothing about it is standard none of components used standard ports but i just wanted to build a wooden plane too but i wont fly it im just using the small rc parts but im planning to make my own twin boom plane thing inspired by the j28 jet
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MCNMT6G/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>u/Adam627 had already told me this a few hours ago, but thanks for the input! Here's the new ESC that I selected: ESC
This is the thing you need.
Forester 166 Foot Arborist Throw... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XR2CB3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And this too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSDHC7W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Don't just run out and spin it around your head, though. Watch some videos on throwing techniques. If you throw it right, you can get it up to the top of dang near any tree.
Make sure the vtx can handle the amount of raw voltage it is receiving other than that yea I got a special jst gimbal for xt60 for a few bucks XT60 Male to xt60 Female Connectors with JST Plug Connector Power Adapter for RC DJI Phantom FPV MultiRotor Aerial Camera Gimbal (Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GG1XW9F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RD8P7Z5YJWN5CKP10W5H
Here's the exact one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Helicopter-Airplane-Simulator-Controller/dp/B00DR4I4O0/
It works fine with my Spektrum Dx6 and the description says it works with Futaba too. Check the pics to make sure one of their adapters works with your radio.
Need radio suggestions
New to this, first plane Mini Aeroscout. I haven't "outgrown" the plane but I def want more planes down the road.
So I'm planning for future,is this a good radio for the price? And if there's something better that cost a little more, or less then what?
Am I missing out on something if I get this ?
HobbyZone RC Airplane AeroScout S 2 1.1m RTF (Transmitter, Receiver, Battery and Charger Included) , HBZ38000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091T3L2L2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FXEE1V5R7FXFBP87F76S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 shows in stock
Lights or Aeroscout? If it's lights LED Light Strip for RC Fixed Wing Airplane Flying Wing Plane AR Wing Drone Model Car Truck (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082DG67LR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VVDC3JRN2MEE0487ESSM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Awesome man, thanks for your input.
I went with this plane here. It seems to be beginner-friendly and has advance modes.
So with this plane it wont have elevons like the Dream Flight planes have? you have seperate controls for the rudder that changed the pitch and the rudder that changes the yaw (??) which will make the plane roll/turn? This is considered easier than having them on elevons?
I can fly this plane with no motor just on the slope if the conditions are good too?
IF you have never flown an RC airplane, I highly suggest the plane I am linking. It is small and easy to fly and if you like it, you have not sunk a lot of money into the whole thing. https://www.amazon.com/HobbyZone-Airplane-Transmitter-Included-HBZ44500/dp/B085G15R4N/ref=sr_1_56?crid=C38AUEPA16QR&keywords=RC+AIRPLANES&qid=1652223737&sprefix=rc+airplanes%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-56
A more modern approach to this is one of these dischargers for like $7 each. Works for 2s to 6s batteries, and stops discharging when it reaches storage voltage. I use these instead of my battery charger these days. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PBCTRKC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_WN3VE4PJS3FCTF9CKMHX
ISDT FD-200 Smart Control Discharger BattGo 200W 25A Wireless APP Control Discharger Capacity for 2-8S RC Lipo Battery Discharging https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VS2JSN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7SBH4YHGJAFVTZ8V1FMT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought some simple discharges that have a little heatsink on them. Plug them in and they're supposed to bring the pack down to 50%.
[Amazon link(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PBCTRKC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_WN3VE4PJS3FCTF9CKMHX)
I connect a voltage checker to the balance plug so I can watch the change and current rate and after half a day they'll be back down to about what's expected. (3s 2200mah batteries)
An alternative and quicker way is to wire up a few 12v bulbs (non led) and connect that to the battery. They'll draw a steady amount of power... However you need to be VERY careful to have a voltage alarm or checker on the packs as you can easily over discharge the battery and kill it permamantly. I have one built specifically for discharging packs flat after they get too puffy, damaged, or a cell stops working charging correctly.
You can simply hook up a battery checker to the balance lead, set it to 3.8V and come in for landing wehn it's starting to beep. Cannot believe nobody told you about them. They're cheap between 1-2 bucks a piece. Here is a example link: Makerfire 4pcs LiPo Battery... https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07SBXVTHW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It's only $70 on Steam, and it's totally worth it. Not just because you can practice without worrying about crashing your real plane but also because it has so many models. You can try a new plane out in the sim before you spend money on the real one.
Don't waste your money on the interlink. If you have a FrSky-compatible transmitter, get one of these:
FrSky Compact XSR-SIM USB Dongle for FrSky Transmitters and Module System
If you have a Spektrum transmitter, get this one:
Spektrum Ws2000 Wireless USB RC Flight Simulator Dongle, SPMWS2000
OrangeRX also makes a DSM-compatible USB dongle that's cheaper than the Spektrum one, but I don't see them in stock anywhere.
If you want to stay cheap, Amazon sells 20-30USD packs with a camera and a VTX. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwhoop-Adjustable-Transmitter-Cloverleaf-Aircraft/dp/B06XB2ZRBP/ which I would not necessarily recommend, all in one's like this are good for RC cars for example, but less so for planes as the range will be limited.
https://www.amazon.com/AKK-Degree-800TVL-Switchable-Transmitter/dp/B01N48QUIP/ this is getting closer to what you'd need.
Ram-Pro 33-Feet Fiberglass Fish Tape Cable Rods, Electrical Wire Running Pull/Push Kit | Fishing Feeder Pole Sticks Snake Tool for Coaxial Wall Wiring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2LWVDV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QTDQW8PKQCP5JMX4N943 30$ at Amazon for 39”
If you're keen on doing some soldering and want to collect a lot of data objectively it's best to set up something automated that can read power and force electronically. This is what I did.
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Weighing-Arduino-Portable-Electronic/dp/B09K7G3477/
Thanks mate!
I found this transmitter on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Crossfire-915MHz-Transmitter-Module-Racing/dp/B09NCCRPYB
It says it should have a range of 40km. Is that believable? And would I also need a new Receiver? As I said, I'm new to this haha.
Thanks!
Radiolink R6DS 2.4GHz RC Receiver 6/10 Channels SBUS/PWM/PPM for Drone Airplane Fixed Wing AT9S/AT9S Pro/AT10/AT10II Transmitter RX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPB6QYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_Y7F2X5YZF06347VJY502?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So I think another comment talked about changing your prop but that plane can be changed from a 3 cell to a 4 cell without any modification needed. If your looking for cheep batteries with high performance then I personally suggest getting HRB batteries on Amazon. I have probably 20 of them and have never had an issue.
this is the battery I recommend for that plane it has more capacity than the one your showing in the picture so longer flight times and and the same performance at a cheaper price
Only thing is that you will need an adapter for that battery which I can help you get the right one. They are only like 10 bucks
If you're looking for cheap starting planes the WLToys F949 is famous for exactly that. EPP is a tough material and it includes everything needed in the package (batteries, charger, transmitter, spare props, etc).
Personally I started with an AR Wing Classic, though since you have to supply your own power and control systems it'd probably go over your $150 budget unless you really cut some corners.
That motor is going to be too big. You probably don't want to use a brushless motor because then you'll have to use an ESC which just adds weight. I was figuring something closer to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0XOOS5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_GYVCR101KRSBH6ZAGFBH
You could probably run it directly off a small 2s or 3s battery, maybe around 500mah. 3s on a full charge might be too high a voltage though. You might even get away with just hooking up a few 9 volt batteries in parallel and using a switch to turn things on and off.
LiPo batteries are kinda a fire hazard when not treated properly and letting one run till it's completely empty can actually kill the battery for good. That's where some sort of cut off is usually built into the esc to prevent running them flat. Only problem there is if you do end up using an ESC you have to figure out a way to trick it into putting out a fixed throttle which may involve more complex circuitry (and weight).
Thank you!
Would any size brushless motor work? Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075457Y7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_RGGXHVEZG2P4NSRKRV3B
Also—again I am completely unfamiliar with this hobby—are there compatibility concerns when selecting LiPo batteries?
Thanks for helping a total novice.
I want to solder a T60 connector, but I don't even want to buy the batteries if the wires are too fine.
Get a 2.4ghz reciever, and also some voltage alarms. Also wdym by it has to be a 1300mah or a 2800mah? These should work fine.
They certainly exist. https://www.apcprop.com/product/20x14/ https://www.amazon.com/XOAR-Electric-Airplane-Propeller-Competition/dp/B01HVGAXWK
I can't find a 20x4 in the market with a Google search. Do you know how the prop was previously used? Plane? Type of plane? Drone?
You should get a hotter soldering iron, i have pretty good experience with these. Also get a solder sucker tool if you need solder removal.
I recommend something like in the link below. It’s not the strongest glue, but that is on purpose. It’ll hold up to flight forces no problem, may crack if the wing takes some abuse in a rough landing. I recommend a weaker glue like this because if you have something stronger and the wing is destined to break again, the damage will be even bigger than just the spot you glued because the strong glue is harder to break so the foam will give somewhere else (speaking from unfortunate experience).
Bob Smith Industries BSI-142 Clear Foam-Cure, Craft Glue, 4 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011XWDTOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YYKTN940P1P4MJPB71KK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've had good luck with BLHeli_32 ESCs, though they need a separate BEC. I've also had good luck with Flycolor (specifically this rebadged one).
I've had bad luck with VGood ESCs, mine have sync issues on 3s but work fine on 2s.
Cheapest: Jumper T-Lite
Somewhat less cheap and another formfactor: Jumper T8SG
"Top of the line": Radiomaster TX16S / Jumper T18 (pro) / Radioking TX18S / Eachine TX16S
Also a solid option. I would not take the T-Lite around im my pocket, was just illustrating how handy it is to drag around as it takes next to no space. If the form factor is an issue for you then I would probably also get the TX12. I just think the 73 euros here (including shipping) is such incredible value, particularly tempting as a backup radio or extra portable option.
If you have no intention of using crossfire in the future, then I think the T-Lite is easily the best option. https://www.banggood.com/Jumper-T-Lite-16CH-Hall-Sensor-Gimbals-CC2500-or-JP4IN1-Multi-protocol-RF-System-OpenTX-Mode2-Transmitter-Support-Jumper-915-R900-or-CRSF-Nano-for-RC-Drone-p-1782091.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=424826299600&rmmds=search 76 bucks on Bangood right now. You will need one 18650 battery to power it, and I am not sure if an SD card comes with it. Either way it is easily availbale with everything you need for max 90 bucks included shipping.
I feel you... Money is a pain. I want an fpv system but it's too expensive so I'm waiting. I can recommend you a rangexx module, you simply insert it into the back of your transmitter, there should be a hatch like door, can you see it?
LiPo bags don't hurt, but they aren't enough. I just bought a "Bat-safe"
Bat-safe Lipo-Lithium Battery Charging Safe Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXJBRBB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_0X9EJX8R6QVMBD3AXJAF
FWIW, these high-power chargers are often used with a balance board to charge multiple batteries at once.
Would this one work? If I get wires and a receiver adapter and solder it?
You are right. It does say it has a BEC... the small switch on the ESC may change something there. The large switch is obviously just a power disconnect for rc cars or planes with engines. Maybe it is a problem with the receiver, too. If you plugged your battery directly into the receiver, it is possible you burnt out the power feed for the servos by overloading it. You could try a different receiver. Or your servo/esc leads could be in the receiver backwards, I guess...
If all that doesn't help you, I would recommend this style for rc planes. It is always possible you bought a lemon.
If thats your first plane, you might want to put some sort of gyro in there. Heres a good one.
get a voltage alarm and just land when it starts beeping. With those types of planes, the flight time can vary heavily depending on how you fly it.
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I'm legitimately shocked that it's capable of doing this. My next project with this model is to take the major control surface servos out and replace them with AGFRC B13DLM units which are oversized and overpowered for a model of this weight and scale. The little wings on the servo actually have to be cut and sanded to fit in the pocket, and even then it's a tight fit. These are the same servos I installed on the stabilators of the 80mm F-16 when I still had it. The Avian kicks out 6v standard via the BEC, so the servo will push nearly 4kg/cm in torque per surface!
Not worth it considering how easy it is to accidentally destroy an entire battery, whether by overdischarging it or by crashing a model. Its also not likely to last any longer than a well taken care of battery half the price. Liperion Pro, ChinaHobbyLine, and Turnigy should all be great choices. Get the XT60 batteries, and install these into your planes and charger.
I'm using this set
You are probably looking for something like this. This is pretty modern and efficient design for high speed. Big enough to fight winds. https://www.banggood.com/ESKY-Albatross-2600mm-Wingspan-EPO-Sailplane-RC-Airplane-Glider-PNP-p-1627367.html?cur_warehouse=CZ
I myself use double sided Extreme Interlocking Fasteners for use with my Runcam 2. It might not work as well with the GoPro since they tend to be way heavier from what I've seen, and the Runcam 2 is lighter (and seems to be made specifically for HD filming for stuff like this), so if anything you'd have to test it if you want to go this route.
And yes, reflective tape on your camera will definitely make it easier to find in the worst case scenario that it gets detached in mid air or lost in a crash.