That's the paint I have, I bought the army painter set of 50. I also bought a set of cheap craft acrylics to use for terrain, they average out to like $1 per bottle, msgicfly Acrylic 30 pack.
You can find a bunch of paint rags like the ones I got, but here are the ones I bought OPHIR Wooden Paint Rack Stand Pigment Ink Bottle Paints Tool Storage with Cabinet Holder Organizer for 58 Bottles of Paints https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077TGW5QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z22nDb0GR3P3T
As far is the light, just search on Amazon for Ottlite And find one you like
If it's your first, you shouldn't have to worry about getting a great airbrush. I would instead recommend making sure you get a good compressor with tank attached. The tank is pretty important, it is required to regulate airflow and get a consistent steady air pressure
Most hobby shops that deal with airbrushing will be able to sell you the same compressor, tank, and airbrush combo. It is sold with 100 different brand names on it, but it is the same manufacturer that supplies them all.
They usually look like this But I would recommend checking with your local game stores, they could really use the sale right now.
Here's the listing on Amazon for the set comes with a brush as well. There's a brush kit from them as well with miniature brushes for like $13 and a spray cost about $15 as well but if you get the off white it's saving you so much time and effort to begin with
Amazon my friend. It looks like they will have more in stock May 12th.
amazon.com/gp/product/B083RL8NY1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd also make this suggestion from my time around X-Wing:
Bring (something to use as) a tray to carry your minis from table to table with/on. Better than wrestling with an arm full of models between rounds and possibly dropping (or even breaking!) one.
Also, some sort of tupperware or a smaller plano-type utility box (I.E. https://tinyurl.com/tokenstorage) to keep tokens in. From personal experience, I would recommend something with enough sections to keep 'main pots' of the tokens you reach for the most: dodge, aim, suppression, damage, etc.
If you happen to have/use card sleeves, you can fit 2 of the mini upgrade cards in a standard sleeve to help keep your full build together.
I have a suggestion that is simi relevant. I find that super glue tends to be viscous and can sometimes make glueing things together flush difficult.
For this type of plastic I strongly recommend plastic glue like this: https://www.amazon.com/Testors-3507AT-Liquid-Plastic-1-Ounce/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3ERI8GZWO690Z&dchild=1&keywords=testors+plastic+glue&qid=1628643448&sprefix=Testers+plas%2Caps%2C226&sr=8-3
Really appreciate it! I've been really considering an airbrush for at least priming and base coating, but you're using it to layer up greys to whites which is giving your white a lot of depth. Based on your experience, would you say something like this would be good, or do I need to go up to a larger compressor?
If your brother has no painting supplies or hobby experience, I would stick to one core set (of whichever time period he prefers) and something like the Army Painter beginner kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Miniatures-Highlighting-Miniature/dp/B01MTXRU2L/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=army+painter+starter&qid=1606509011&sr=8-3
He will also need an exacto knife and super glue
1/48 scale I believe is what you might want to look for.
I got this.. it looks to scale (an ATRT rider guy fit inside and looked proportional .. give or take a few millimeters.: Amazon - Revell Tie Fighter Model
I got the paint set on amazon for 25-30 ish USD. It’s army paint brand, which I think is the same brand as the upcoming legion paints.
Here you go!
Idk what country you’re in but I’m from Canada so I’m Using amazon.ca. And im also using the app. But I did find these links. Hopefully they help!
I got them from Amazon:
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https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01K1YUUB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know walmart carries Krylon spray primer, if you're able to make the trip.
Not knowing where you're located you may try and contact your FLGS online the store may be closed, but they may be doing stuff like curbside pick ups. My FLGS in Omaha does both curbside pickup, and will let you call in and set an appointment to come in to browse.
Or if none of these are an option rather not pay twice as much for spray primer you can always just brush on the primer, a lot of people do it, I'm actually using brush on primer for my Rebel army.
Also, while I personally haven't used it yet, I'd be willing to bet Vallejos Hobby Paint primer would be a good buy. Plus it looks like they've got cans of Wolf Grey in stock on Amazon, which is virtually identical to Games Workshops Corax White.
This would be a great color to use to base your army since painting white over black will make you hate painting. White is one of the two hardest colors to paint, and you don't need the hindrance of fighting a black base layer.
Looks to be a Plano. Could it be the one linked below?
[Plano 2-3700 Prolatch Stowaway (four pack)
You can use something like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Uni-Fine-Connector-LawnMowers-Husqvarna-Automower/dp/B07RC5CS6K/ref=asc_df_B07RC5CS6K/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=346903626633&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6128224011952499802&hvpone=&hvptw...
I have used similar before on fans just for the convenience, place the wires in and use pillars to push the top down, crimping the cables into the connector
I'm going to suggest something that I wish I had as a beginner and no matter which paints you use, painting style, etc. getting a magnifier to paint under is extremely helpful like this here: https://www.amazon.com/Brightech-LightView-Flex-Magnifying-Lamp/dp/B07MMZ27QK
Before buying a paint set, if you have the option I would go to a local game store to see what they carry for paints. If you prefer to piece together your paint set this would be the route to go, but it will likely be more expensive in the long run.
Army Painter Speedpaints or Citadel Contrast Colors are both a good way to achieve shading and highlighting in one coat but it still takes some familiarity with how they cover and break over surfaces. The Army Painter has two sets, a Starter Set and a Mega Set. If you like the idea of these style paints I would recommend the Mega Set.
Watch a few videos of Sorastro's Painting of Star Wars Legion and Star Wars Imperial Assault. He shows you a ton of good techniques to use which are easy to follow along to even though you won't have the exact colors he is using.
As for brushes I would recommend just cheap pack of brushes for the majority of your base painting. I use some blue pack of brushes off of Amazon for like $6.
I found this stuff called metal tape that is much stronger than magnetized sheets, and much easier to cut than sheet metal. You can use regular scissors to cut strips and then line the bottom of the box with the strips.
No go get some thin liquid cement for plastics i really like this stuff however that will work its just harder the thicker it is
AimanGZ - 5 Hojas de Iman... https://www.amazon.es/dp/B00INTBBH6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
My minis used to get stick to the gaming mat, because it did like vacuum from the bases to the matt. To prevent this I used this magnetic sheets that did the purpose of covering the whole base and being magnetic. Tip use them in contact with actual mete al plates for transportation. They don’t magnetize really well between them.
I bought some of this reptile substrate and used a strainer to filter the larger chunks out, then used the smaller bits as the ground cover. Spattered some Agrax Earthshade onto that in random spots to vary up the colors of the dirt a little bit.
Then I glued some patches of Woodland Scenics Coarse Turf and pressed it kinda flat with my finger for the lighter vegetation, and a little bit of of Woodland Scenics Bush for the darker, bushy vegetation. Then throw in a random stick found outside and cut to size or a generic grass tuft on some of em and you're all set!
Hope this helps! I'm really happy with how it turned out.
Here's a link now that I'm home.
I also use this metal tape on the bottom of the box. Magnets stick to it better than they do to that magnet paper, and it's way easier to cut that sheet metal because you can use normal scissors.
So is the issue with it not fitting the width or is it the height. I say this because the difference between the 2016 and 2032 is the height, the 16 denotes that it is 1.6mm vs a 2032 which is 3.2mm. A standard base has just around ~2mm base inside height, so the 2016 should work. The only time they don't work is when the base has a nub or something inside that increases the height, which you may have to sand down. All 2016 and 2032 are standard sizes as well, so any brand will end up being the same size. Another option for you is the cr1620. now this is a tad taller but width-wise is smaller, depending on your issue.
For what I did, I used a clear rod with a red led. If you are trying to go red acrylic, just be aware that light may not pass through it as well, if that is what you are trying to do. For all the smaller sizes, you can really only find clear rods; which I wonder if they just paint the clear rods red? So if you do want to make it a red rod, I would suggest using a clear rod and painting over it with a semitransparent paint. Something like this should work, https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Acrylic-X27-Gloss-Clear/dp/B00TT856HG/ref=sr_1_2.
You mean a painting handle?
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https://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-Warhammer-Citadel-Painting/dp/B077DMTJ2V
I started out with an Army Painter bulk set. It’s worth it in my opinion. Never had major issues with AP despite what a lot of people say. Bulk set has lasted me years and I gradually replace colors I use up with better lines like Vallejo and Scale. It’s a good economical starting point.
this is what I use. I pop one of the eyes up and keep the other down
I use the A4 size very useful boxes, then DIY’d magnetic storage by using these magnets on the minis, and these magnetic sheets that i cut to fit the box’s interior
I use these. Less neat than the nice Etsy one, but robust and does the job!
Plus free UK shipping
I am just getting into this game and have been curious what the community is doing as well. My prior FFG game imperial assault had a similar mix of cards that was a pain to organize. I ended up using a lot of sleeves and craft boxes which was a lot to put away as well. I use a lot of 9 card binder sleeves for Warcry in combination with 3d printed trays for game play.
I have seen these out "in the wild" but they seem a little spendy.
Good luck and good question.
when you say light grey, would uniform grey from The Army Painter work? or would it need to be something lighter?
Ultimate Guard Pages 18 Pocket Card Sleeves (10 Piece), Black, Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CS0ZUEU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_170ZJ7M7HBVWVDA35DNQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use these for both units and upgrades (both sleeved).
I cut some cheap, side load, nine pocket pages down to four pockets and they work just fine with sleeved unit and upgrade cards. I've been running them weekly for a few months without any problems.
These are the cheap Amazon pages I used.
One "page" can hold a single unit with up to six upgrades, two units with two upgrades or four units without upgrades.
So did I. They're great. Here's a link.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CS104FE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used these 2x1mm, so the smaller ones will probably work just fine.
Doing the head was probably over kill as the key that comes off the neck is pretty long, the the pistol and saber worked out great.
I used these 2x1mm, so the smaller ones will probably work just fine.
Doing the head was probably over kill as the key that comes off the neck is pretty long, the the pistol and saber worked out great.
Ultra Pro Platinum 16 Pocket Platinum Mini American Cards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARJ9AT0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_F5Q388QX3RD1P5GNSHKS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Those are the sleeves I bought and I just picked up a cheap 3 ring binder from Walmart
I had the same issues with rattlecans when painted my stormtroopers. I ended up buying a cheap airbrush kit just for zenithal priming.
Specifically this one: imyyds Airbrush Kit with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096B22YCB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It's very small, portable, rechargeable, and can do about 2-3 units before for the battery dies. I usually take my stuff out on the porch, so I haven't set up a spray booth. I paint on my dinning room table, so I feel your pain about space.
A lot of people will tell you not to buy this garbage and save up for something better, but I am very happy that I bought this one.
As far as paints go, I've been using Vallejo USN Ghost Gray and Golden Highflow Acrylic Titanium White. But these are meant for an airbrush.
I would suggest the Plano 7771 Tackle Box. The trays are big and each divider is the perfect size for the minis. If you want to see pictures of mine let me know. I will happily snap some pictures as I am an empire player as well using the Plano 7771.
https://www.amazon.com/Plano-7771-Guide-Tackle-System/dp/B000E39T3C
Thanks! It's super simple. I used some blues and whites to paint the effect onto the plastic of the base (like what you see in the last photo) and then slap on a couple layers of Vallejo water texture. That stuff dries clear, glossy and holds its shape to form some cool ripple-like effects. Hope this helps!
Here is what they look like on Amazon
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CS104FE?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Sounds like they are using like, a school binder with these kinds of pages: https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Pro-Platinum-Pocket-American/dp/B01ARJ9AT0/ref=sr_1_2?crid=NZYC8J7VU5WF&keywords=us+mini+size+trading+card+binder&qid=1644545372&sprefix=us+mini+size+trading+card+binder%2Caps%2C104&sr=8-2
Personally, I would go with this set. I know it is more ~$23 CAD more expensive, but it is cheaper per mL and the paints are of higher quality. The only thing I really missed from this set was a grey but you can at least easily make that yourself.
It doesn't come with washes, but a bottle of acrylic matte medium will allow you to make your own. That is likely better bought at a local craft or art supply store.
After browsing your amazon, you might have the best set. I personally prefer vallejo Amazon Link
but you would still need washes to really finish the models.
I use this Plano Tackle Box and it is great. The containers are the perfect size for all of the trooper minis, the top has plenty of room for dice, objectives and commanders. The lid lifts off with room for any large vehicles [I have 2 AATs and my Spider Droids in the top of my CIS case with some room left over], and the side is deep enough for taller models like STAPs an their flight stands. You can also get an extra container meant for jigs that is a great size to hold all of your cards and tokens for your army. Maybe someday I'll post an update to my earliest posts using these, but they're great.
https://www.amazon.com/Battle-Systems-Apocalypse-Terrain-Shanty/dp/B085W72PLP/r
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that type of stuff, but there are a bunch of options
I use this stuff from Vallejo. it seems to just naturally form those type of lines with minimal manipulation required.
if you mean the ones that are still standing and is massive, I believe its a Hasboro toy from 2010, they are often avail in the 200 price range on Ebay
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there are a few model kits on Amazon as wll though that are way cheaper https://www.amazon.com/Revell-RV05680-at-at-Plastic-Unpainted/dp/B083YN5P7R/
Might be expired or something. I buy these cause they are cheap, work really well, and if one dries out, I have a bunch that are unopened.
Super Glue 15187 , Clear- pack of 12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LGPD64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R04J3BZX5MYPJ1ZCTQDJ
This painting handle has a hand rest and it helps me a lot. I love it.
Jucoci 2-in-1 Painting Handle for Miniautres Paint Handle Compatible with Warhammer, DND, Scale Model, Fantasy Figurines https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09DCN3Y38/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_P6BRRE2M1EB1XR9HT056?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A-wing model in about 1/48th scale which is close to legion, and with some painting touch ups makes pretty good terrain.
Other similar models exist, but this was one of the few not on secondary market when i was looking.
Would love to see if others in this thread know of more like this
Have you got a link to these heads specifically? I can't find them on Cults3D
Edit: Literally searched 4aDuel on the site, found these https://cults3d.com/en/search?q=4aduel
Pokemon card folder and these sleeves.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CS104FE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sure! Airbrushes are my favorite tool. Since getting one last year my process has changed substantially.
Tips:
super glue works fine for me - I buy the small tubes in the 12 pack, they work fine for 20 - 30 mini's, then toss and replace. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-15187-12-Pack/dp/B000LGPD64/
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way better then having to deal with trying to clean larger tubes, and with 12 you can keep spares where needed, superglue has a ton of uses
Here is my personal breakdown:
I made wood painting handles with magnets inset in them via the design from Goobertown Hobbies YouTube channel, and I super glue a single 6x2mm magnet these to the base of each single trooper unit. This is plenty strong for painting and storage. (I use really useful boxes brand and installed thin metal sheeting so the troops stick right down. No rattle. It's great)
To answer your more delicate question, I magnetized the guns on my At-RTs with SUPER TINY ones. I think they were 2x2mm.
Best advice I can supply is watch YouTube videos and find what other creatives have done and pay CLOSE attention to the polarity of the magnets. You don't want to screw up the polarity, lol.
I bought a few hard shelled card game storage boxes and I have each item type bagged together.
Probably going to upgrade to this big one at some point. It's not TIGHT in the smaller one I have yet, but it's gonna be after another few waves.
Gonioa Extra Large Hard Game Card Case for 2200-2500 Cards, Playing Card Game Holder & Organizer with Shoulder Strap, Storage Box Case Fits Main Game and All Expansions https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CMYGCQT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QSJWFAWB8N2RPYWG1N66
I decided to go this route after my X-Wing 1.0 storage solution of 3-ring binder pages. The binders could flip and dump the mini cards if I wasn't super careful, which was a huge pain.
I also have a pack of mini binder sheets that have one full size card slot and several mini slots and I use those when I build an army. Easier to travel with than loose cards.
Good luck on reorganizing!
these are what you are looking for, they are just out of stock now:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTYD2BI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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they are good for bulk storage of upgrade cards. you can fit 3 cards in each pocket pretty well. 4 becomes to lose and they fall out easily.
I use these, they have enough space to fit sleeved upgrade cards and one unit card too which I like
Ultimate Guard Pages 14 Pocket Stand Card Sleeves (10 Piece), Black, Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CS104FE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_HW9TDVVKBTKBKFGF8231?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There is fake grass for dollhouses that I have seen, but have not played around with. https://www.amazon.com/I-MART-Dollhouse-Miniatures-Artificial-Decoration/dp/B07DTCLKVX
If you played around with this you would probably want to figure out how to pin the models through the grass.
A paint set like this isn't a bad idea but it is another investment into the hobby. Acylicos Vallejo - 72299 - Acrylic 16 Colors for Fantasy Figures https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PHCTRK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YRTS6C1A4PZZHEK8PWTH
i got a foam cutter, basically a handle with a flat bottom and a blade that slides out. you slide along a ruler and you get perfect straight cuts. https://www.amazon.com/Logan-Werks-Cutting-Straight-Bevel/dp/B001JSQX3K
Id love to see it when its done! ))
I used the FFG Legion premium bases for the Bandai one pictured there. Link here.
"Do it! It is too powerful to left aside."
For me, an Airbrush is now an essential tool, it makes my painting live much easier and faster. It doesn't have to be a expensive one right at a start (but avoid cheap ones) and get yourself a decent starter set like this one
Timbertech Airbrush Set https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00LO4PKY2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7DFGGT75G6S7JGR0FBKV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Lifetime supply for $35
I added some links in the description above to illustrate how they looked before painting and how I used them on another base.
3Qny bits of stringy glue simply cut off with a hobby knife. Next time use either super glue or some of this stuff: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Revell-12-5g-Contacta-Professional-Paste/dp/B004FO0IMW/ref=asc_df_B004FO0IMW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=375420410112&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6427137229647500111&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hv...
But you'll get away with covering the glue with paint
Sure thing!
For the texture itself, I use Vallejo's Light Brown Thick Mud texture paste. Any paste will do really, so long as you apply it before priming and painting the model. I then sporadically glue a small amount of War World Scenics basing sand.
I then prime and paint the model, saving the base for last. I primarily use Vallejo colors, but any similar color tones from other paint ranges will work.
I start with a base of Buff, followed by a single thin coat of English Uniform over the larger rocks. After that, I drybrush 1:1 Buff and Off-White, and then finish the model with GW's Skeleton Horde heavily thinned with acrylic matte medium, and some flow improver.
The main trick really is to make sure the contrast paint (or wash if you'd rather use one) goes on super thin, so it doesn't darken and stain the sand too much.
uxcell 5pcs Prewired 0603 Red SMD LED Light Emitting Diode - DC 1.8-1.9V Micro Soldered Mini LED Light https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07VZZ2YZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_XZ7KDZH6VW86VP88P2P7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Only one light! The rest is OSL
i don't like how it's called blue stuff, because you can literally get it in multiple colors if you just don't buy from greenstuff world. it's also much much cheaper https://www.amazon.com/Moldable-Plastic-Thermoplastic-Beads-8OZ/dp/B077874HM8
I just got these lights which are very easy and low profile, then found some single cr2032 battery power packs and with some financing got it fit in behind the cockpit, though it would be simple to put it in the cabin as well
You can use magnetic sheets instead and glue them into containers; Duncan Rhodes did a great video on the topic.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077KYBYYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
fit perfectly flush. Big bases require two. AA5 uses 4
These are the ones I got that fit really well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJ9H31P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Basically I just put a little hot glue on the bottom of the base and then stick the magnet in while it's cooling! It's been really quick and I don't get super glue all over my fingers.
Thank you!
Is this the Krylon Stone Texture Spray?
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K18202-Coarse-Texture-Charcoal/dp/B000I6DHXI
You also mention a Rustoleum Matte Varnish? Though it wasn't shown in the video.
For paints really anything works, I use a mix of Army Painter, Valejo, and Citadel. Fancy paints don't mean much if you don't know how to use them so watch some tutorials.
For brushes, tools, etc. you'll need glue (super glue or Tamiya thin plastic cement), clippers to cut out flashing, and a hobby knife. I'd also reccomend a wet pallete as it will make painting easier. Regarding the glues, plastic cement chemically bonds plastic so it not very good when there a lot of paint on a surface but its clear, fast drying, and easy to use. Super glue takes longer to set, and is a little messier so I use it for less detailed bits like terrain or gluing tbe mini to bases. For brushes just stick with the cheap stuff, it will work good enough and many award winning painters use them. I like using (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJ5GMX7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) and some misc large brushes for dirty work that doesnt need much detail.
Theres a crap ton of tutorials out there for minis, just dont get too anal about detailed work. It becomes genuinly unnecessary and very difficult after some basic shading. I repainted my clones twice before I just did it again with simple shading/detail and it turned out best the simple way.
If I had to guess, Hasbro action figure scale repainted. It’s pretty common for Scarif boards. See here: Star Wars: Rogue One Rebel U-Wing Fighter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYBV2OQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0R0G536YHPVYQDS217H2
Depending on just how bad your brushes are you could try simply cleaning them with some brush soap.
This is the stuff that I use: https://www.amazon.ca/The-Masters-Brush-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=masters+brush+cleaner&linkCode=sl2&linkId=81761e64dd4e50bac8604e5e84c24a40&qid=1609819574&sr=8-1&tag=parblo0c-20
It cleans any old paint out of your bristles and lets you re-shape tips by soaping up the bristles and shaping them into the desired point and letting the soap dry. Just make sure to rinse your brush well before you use it again or the soap could contaminate your paint. Since I started using brush soap my brushes last a lot longer than they used to.
Pretty sure it was this one; https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004TJ3AP0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its made from plastic cross-stitch mesh; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Darice-Number-Mesh-Canvas-13-Inch/dp/B007YVJFKY/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=cross+stitch+mesh+plastic&qid=1608974289&sr=8-5
An important skill to develop is removing mold lines. The unnatural straight line on the arm jumps out at the eye.
It is tricky to remove mold lines without damaging detail on uneven pieces, but for a display miniature its worth doing. You'll want a small cylindrical file that you can lay inside the folds to wear away the mold line. You don't need to clean it up perfectly, any improvement will go a long way towards breaking up that line.
This particular product is probably too big, but is an example of the kind of tool I'm talking about:
I would recommend this set by Vallejon instead of the FFG/Army Painter set
Last one in stock on Amazon. Not sure if the price is fair or not. Star Wars: Legion Limited Edition Luke Skywalker Commander Exp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P7XPX1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_eqg5Fb26EEH52
Useful for this kind of thing and cheap, i use it a lot
I'm going to make some roads/paths/landing platforms using it
I ordered one of these off Amazon, very good quality, and very reasonably priced. They have a bunch of different prints you can look at. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9W0884/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?psc=1
Legion is my first miniature game as well! A buddy of mine recommended a army painter set when I first started. To be honest they are not that great and a couple of the brushes have fallen apart. I have been eyeing these brushes on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=18KR6TIBSRBKI&keywords=miniature+brushes&qid=1550092873&s=gateway&sprefix=miniature+bru%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
they seem like a nice set! Those vallejo paints will work perfectly, I have a few of them and I really like their product. Citadel paints (in my opinion) are top tier paint quality wise. If you dont want to shell out the "Citadel Tax" for them, vallejo is an awesome product for the price.
IF you were so inclined to paint pupils a trick I use a lot is to take a Sakura Pigma Micron drawing pen at either 0.01 or 0.005. They are very small and incredibly well made.
If I need to do eyes I use a pen most of the time. They even have colors like blue and brown so you can get a color that isn’t as harsh as black.
But as the previous poster said, at gameplay distance you can’t see the eyes. I do it because I’m obsessive like that.
I tend to buy superglue from my local grocery store. Any kind of “Gel” superglue is what I prefer to use. Loctite has always worked really well for me!
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G
Here’s an amazon link as well
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https://smile.amazon.com/Star-Wars-Legion-Movement-Tools/dp/B0773Y16WP/ref=sr_1_2?crid=16M5QSHVLYKVD&dchild=1&keywords=legion+movement+tool&qid=1603057745&sprefix=legion+movement%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-2
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I think these are the ones I used for the small cards.
And then just normal sized sleeves for the bigger cards. You can stuff multiple of the small cards in each slot so you don’t have to have 1 card per slot
I did indeed! I used Vallejo Polyurethane Gloss thinned out and applied in layers with an airbrush.
I thought that one of the signature characteristics of the Stormtrooper armor is their porcelain shine, so I tried to simulate that!
I use Winsor & Newton Artists' Aerosols Artists' Picture Varnish, Matt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SO8MXYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nrPcYRN9Qyunj
After testing about as many matte finishers as I could find, this was hands down my favorite. Really forgiving, very solid matte finish, durable, and the bottle has covered over a hundred minis and counting. Testors is a great alternative if this isn’t available.
You'll be looking for 2x1mm, 3x1mm, or 4x1.5mm Neodymium magnets.
2x1mm magnets are good for magnetizing weapons like Sabines Gun/Dark Saber options. You can easily use two side by side for a stronger hold on large weapons but honestly one should be fine for things like the AT-RT options. You can get 300 for about $10 off amazon
I'd also suggest getting a small dremel/rotary tool. You can get a rotary tool for about the same price as a manual dremel. If you've got a Harbor Freight near by pick up their Rotary tool kit it's like $10 and regularly goes on sale for $8. This is the rotary tool kit that I've been using for modeling for about 7 years now. Honestly it's not super durable and I've had to buy about 3 in that period, however it's small lightweight, and has the perfect amount of power to work with plastic and resin minis. I've tried more expensive Rotary tools like Black and Deckers, but I prefer the cheap Harbor Frieght one.
Clear acrylic rods (these) and blue sharpie.
I have a Battle Foam bag that I use for transporting whatever minis I'm using, and then the rest of my minis get stored in Plano tackle storage containers. My dice and tokens go in a smaller Plano container that fits in the front pocket of my Battle Foam bag. My cards go in these: https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Guard-Pages-Pocket-Sleeves/dp/B01CS104FE/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_0_4/146-1777481-1254310?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01CS104FE&pd_rd_r=9d6f0972-32f7-4251-b4cb-92737b717bc1&pd_rd_w=7prSU&pd_rd_wg=lrBnI&p...
I can't recommend that card storage solution enough, because you can keep your unit cards and their relevant upgrade cards all on the same page, and then just flip any upgrade cards you aren't using face-down, and keep everything in the pages during your games. Makes setting up and putting away much easier, and misplacing cards a lot less likely.
I use A case or army case because I like magnet solutions
And I use a husky organizer from Home Depot for bits
These are great too https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Guard-Pages-Pocket-Sleeves/dp/B01CS104FE/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y76VZ2HVBP5J9HH1B6HQ
I use this stuff -- its perfect. Has a really narrow tip so you can get glue in the sockets, and it doesn't drip/run.
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