That's a Type B Connector. But it's the 3.0 Variant (Technically now 3.2). The 2.0 version is what a printer would use. Keep in mind you can actually plug a 2.0 cable into the female version of this port and still get 2.0 speeds. This also shows up on larger downstream devices, hard drives from LaCie like the Quattro, high end devices.
Here you go
Never ever use these kinds of cables. For ANYTHING. If you have one, cut the tips off of each of the plugs to disable the cable, and throw it in the trash.
These cables violate the USB-C specification, the USB 2.0 specification, Apple's Lightning specification, all at the same time.
Cables have two ends only. One end goes to a power source, the other end goes to a power sink. Devices and hosts are provided this assurance by the specifications.
A power supply communicates its power limitation to the device it's attached to assuming a point to point relationship, not a TREE of devices all behaving independently.
The baseline power that something can draw in USB 2.0 is 500mA. Say you have one of these octopus monstrosities plugged into your PC's 500mA USB-A port. Then you start plugging in your phones.
If you plug in 4 phones, and they are tricked by the cable to draw the basic 500mA, suddenly you have 2A flowing out of your computer's 500mA port. That means your computer's USB-A may be damaged.
These cables are complete trash. Never use one.
If you want something that has data capability, then you need a hub, for example this: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-27402-4-Port-Inches/dp/B000LWX6U8
The hub has active components, and is able to signal to the USB devices attached to it to not draw more than 100mA when it's bus powered.
What you have there is a USB 3.1 Micro-B Cable plug.
The USB Type-C Specification defines the legacy cable assembly with USB Type-C plug on the other end in Section 3.5.6 USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Micro-B Cable Assembly.
As others have posted, the AmazonBasics one is a good choice.
Yes, type C needs pull-up resistors to signal how much power to allow.
I believe the adapter in this case is essentially using usb-A signaling over usb-C physical plug, whereas the usb-C cable is a true usb-C cable that’s not supported by this non-compliant device. The device is essentially implementing a “dumb” USB port that happens to have a usb-C plug on it.
Disclaimer: I’m not an expert and there are many in this sub more knowledgeable than I am, so if someone else contradicts me they’re probably right.
Not sure how much your budget is, but the Samsung galaxy buds are £129 on Amazon at the moment, they charge wirelessly or via USB-C, and battery life is around 5.5-6 hours before they need to be put back into the case.
- Charging a phone while gaming, and still being able to reach the controls at each end of the screen
- Charging a phone inside a bicycle-mounted phone bag
I'm not a bot: 100% unrelated, just a tip on posting amazon links. You can clean them up. That massive URL can be turned into this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L4RK1M7/
If your PC has the space available, you can buy a PCI Express USB-C expansion card. Here's one from a brand that's not all too bad:
Power is separate from data
TB3 only affects data
Don't use dollar storage chargers who knows what's in there, either use USB IF certified or reliable, proper reviewed GaN chargers (because the IF doesn't certify flexible split chargers right now).
It's just not worth it. You can get a certified 60W charger for less than 20 bucks https://www.amazon.com/Certified-Charger-Nekteck-Delivery-Compatible/dp/B07F34196B/ and 90W for 20: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Nekteck-Delivery-Matebook-Upgraded/dp/B07RX5XSGS/
>I think however that USB-C to MicroUSB cables aren't defined/allowed in the USB-C specification, so you
>a) might have some compatibility issues and
>b) won't find many such cables :)
They are defined. See section 3.5.7 USB Type-C to USB 2.0 Micro-B Cable Assembly
Here's AmazonBasic's version:
Nekteck has a 100W that's USB-IF certified here: https://www.amazon.com/Nekteck-Certified-Foldable-Charging-Compatible/dp/B089FC1TRF/
Helpfully, reviewers said the bundled two-meter cable is e-marked and rated for 5A charging, so multiplying that with 20V gives you your 100W support. Just remember that if you happen to use the same cable for ad-hoc data transfer (and you can), it'll only support USB 2.0 480 Mbps speeds.
Talking about cables alone, you just need to make sure the ones you source separately (if you want to) have an e-mark chip on it, for 5A compatibility. Cables without the e-mark chip is only good for 3A, and shouldn't be trusted to handle more.
You can get a more powerful charger if you want. The Nexus 6P did not support USB PD, but any USB PD charger of at least 15W will also be a USB Type-C charger and will be safe to use. That's the beauty of the USB-C system. You should not feel anxiety about using a bigger charger than you need.
Here's a pretty good 15W charger from AmazonBasics: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-One-Port-Charger-Tablets-Delivery/dp/B07NW8Z1S6
ORICO 20Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure Adapter, USB3.2 Gen2 X2 Type-C to NVMe PCI-E M-Key Solid State Drive Built-in Fan HERE
and HERE is it's passively cooled little brother, also 20Gbps.
Curious about comparison to 22Gbps TB3 vs 20Gbps USB 3.2 Gen 2 x 2. Cost is dramatically less on the USB Chipset.
I'm a video editor by trade, so I am more demanding on my gear than some. With my 2016 MBP 22.5w will hold it steady with light use.
30w is sufficient to charge the laptop while it is in light use. For me that's browsing in Safari or typing in Notes/Word.
45w will hold it steady while I'm editing video from the internal drive. Maybe a slight discharge, but near steady. The big difference is editing software turns on the dGPU, so the power consumption goes up a lot. Expect anything requiring the dGPU (games or an external display) to cause more than 30w of consumption.
60w will reliably charge the laptop while editing from an external drive.
96w of mobile power sounds cool, but there aren't many applications that need more 30w to charge the MBP. Additionally, with the right bag, you could charge the laptop while it is in your bag. If you can get 30w of PD for an hour while you move about you can get a lot of charge. Even a USB-A charger (12w) will top off your laptop overnight.
Leviton makes a dual USB-C outlet that will provide 30W but that 30W is split among the two ports, so as long as only one device is plugged in it will be charging at 30W. $45 from Amazon.
I bought these a little over a year ago and they've been working great for charging and data transfer. My adapter is rated for 5V 2AMP and I use a phone that charges at about that rate (OnePlus 2)
Today my phone was on the charger for a while and I noticed it was no longer charging and I reached to grab it and it was scorching hot. The chassis seems to be aluminum so I unplugged the cable at the charger end. There was no damage to the type c cable or charger although the charger was maybe a bit warmer than usual. The connection was melted and detached from the rest of the chassis.
This seems to be a somewhat common issue. Is it just a random failure or is this a faulty design.
All USB-C cables support PD, because "supporting PD" is done via a wire that is connected end to end called "CC" for "Configuration Channel".
All proper USB-C to USB-C cables support at a minimum 3A, or 60W operation in USB PD mode.
To answer your question for a 10ft long USB-C cable that supports 5gbps, here you go:
This is an active cable, and it's directional, so just pay attention to the ends. The end that is blue is to be connected to the host, which is your Chromecast in this case.
For a single cable solution, your budget is too low even at $100. Look at these prices:
If you don't really need thunderbolt and are ok with using your current charger with a pass through option and USB-c, then there are a lot more options. The difficulty might be VR as that needs a lot of power and your charger might not be able to handle all of that. If you stick to a monitor and USB-C you should be able to find something good in the $50- $100 range. Something like this:
If you plan on bringing your charger along with you then whatever pass through dock you buy you'll need to figure in the cost of a second charger, so then the thunderbolt dock starts to look like a good option, cost wise.
There will never be any for USB C that a really appropriate to have in your laptop permanently, they will always protrude by a large amount and potentially cause damage during transportation etc.
Something like https://www.amazon.com/Technology-Supports-MicroSDXC-MicroSDHC-Midnight/dp/B07YGXR8N3 is about as small as physically possible I believe.
I see a couple on Amazon that look like they do what you want.
There is the Amazon Basics 100W charger:
And there is a Hyper Juice that I own:
I've seen people complain about Hyper Juice products but I've never had a problem with my charger or battery that I own of theirs. I bought the battery and charger through their Kickstarter and got exactly what I wanted with only delays on the charger due to COVID.
There's so many of these 100W chargers from other brands that I cannot really say one way or another whether they are good or not, but they are all basically the same Chinese brand chargers with varying outputs. I've heard of Satechi and Baseus but never used their stuff. Unfortunately the Anker 100W charger does 50W to both USB C when both are in use otherwise I would have recommended that brand as well.
Any ideas on how to test if our USB cables/adapters are USB-IF certified? I ordered some 3-pack USB-C Female to USB-A Male Adapters a week ago, and it doesn't have any mentions of such certifications—only having a "built-in 56KΩ pull-up resistor protects your devices from damage" marketing.
That one would probably be fine, but I would recommend you consider a hub that uses a detachable USB c-to-c cable. That way you can change it out if it wears out, or use a longer one if needed to suit your needs.
This is the one I have been using since summer 2020 and it has served me well: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q6YS7W2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Wurkkos FC11 is a great all-rounder. Included 18660 battery (yet swappable), USB-C charging, good color rendering, magnetic tailcap, and an easy UI as well
Your problem is similar to the problem Alan tried to solve with USB-persist, but with the wrinkle that your power interruption does not happen necessarily on suspend/resume... but whenever the user decides to rip the power cable away from the dock.
Alan's documentation suggests a different solution. Scroll down in that document regarding something called a "Logical Volume Manager".
To the best of my knowledge, there aren't any hubs that would do that for you. The closest off the shelf solutions would be a KVM switch or USB swith (could only control one computer at a time) or a software solution like Synergy (never used it, YMMV).
Of course, if it had to be done in hardware, I think it could work with a couple chips and a custom PCB design, so if that's something you'd be interested in, just shoot me a PM.
Eh, marketing. of course it's Thunderbolt compatible, every accessory that works with a non-TB3 port will work with a TB3 port.
But that's strange, Cablecreation is usually good. Is it possible you simply got a lemon? Happens all the time. An adapter is not necessarily any better. But maybe try https://www.amazon.in/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B01MCT9P71/
Passive POE injector and an automotive 12/24v to USB C interface like the one below?
DAMAVO YM1218 USB C & USB A Dual Port Car Charger Socket Power Outlet Adapter Type C USB Car Charger Socket Waterproof with Cap 12V/24V for Car, Boat, Golf Cart, Bus, RV, Automotive Marine ATV Truck https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08DD4BH6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3RXZFG5X3ESSDVFKJ3P7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don't think it's BS. I think they simply left out something in the description that other adapters are more upfront about.
This Sabrent adapter also claims support for HDMI 2.1:
However, they explain exactly how they are able to do 8k60 or 4k120:
>This adapter offers [email protected] / [email protected] with DSC (Display Stream Compression) Function & [email protected] & 4K Resolution Without DSC.
>• HDMI 2.1 supports [email protected] & [email protected] with DSC function.
• HDMI 2.1 also supports [email protected] and is backward compatible with 4K resolution without DSC.
So there's your answer. It's using DP 1.4, with DSC enabled.
They're not cheap, but Lenovo markets a few different USB-C docking stations that should do what you want. The docking station itself is powered by an AC adapter and has the typical variety of ports (HDMI, ethernet, USB-A, USB-C), and connects via a USB-C cable to the computer. This is one I use, with a 2-meter cable. I think it might be running at 5Gbps though, because of the long cable.
There are probably similar devices from other manufacturers.
I don't know the Philippines online shopping websites, but it appears that Startech is a brand that sells there...
You should try to look for their 3m 5A cable. https://www.amazon.com/USB-Cable-USB-IF-Certified-Charging/dp/B07DPKX1N5
The one that I trust is a few years old, and only goes up to 30W shared between two ports (although it does allow 30W to a single port).
The problem is that the volume of the wall outlet box limits the size of the power adapter that you can integrate into one of these things...
At least until GaN technology becomes more widely adopted.
Get yourself one of those or similar: https://www.amazon.ca/Type-C-Fasgear-Braided-Charging-transferring/dp/B07CHGK4G7
There are also adapters which go USB-C female to micro usb male, but those are not following the specifications, you should not use them.
This like this exist: https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41
I haven't used one myself, but there's a note on their amazon listing which is concerning:
>*** Note on USB current over limit issue: The power from the USB 3.0 header on the motherboard has a power rating at 4.5W (0.9A x 5V). However, many USB-C devices can withdraw power up to 100W (20A x 5V). This may result in a power shut down to protect the motherboard and its components. Devices such as iPad Pro and other tablets should not be charged through this port.
This indicates that they messed up programming their port controller chip in the adapter by setting an inappropriately high current limit advertisement instead of Default, which would limit the sink power of phones and iPad to 900mA.
Way to admit your product sucks, LinkUp.
> Just like the title says, I have never seen one
Then look harder.
> If not, someone please start manufacturing this..
The worst part about retractable cables in general is that the spring winding mechanism will always fail.
60W PD and another 18W. That's tricky.
I'm not too familiar with QC (which I assume is quickcharge), but I didn't know you need a separate cable for that?
I found one that's similar to the others you found:
I think the item you're looking for may not exist, and if it did, you'll have to scour amazon a while for it and it'll probably be pretty costly. My suggestion is to wait a little while. Apple is rumored to include USB-C power adapters with their next iPhones, and although they will still supposedly have lightning on the other end, the point is that the days of seeing USB-A ports on wall chargers are numbered. Once there exist more wall chargers with multiple USB-C ports, I'm sure you'll find the product you're looking for. Chances are it may come within the next few months.
As for the hub, if you do not need charging then a cheap hub with removable cable and PD passthrough is OK just don't use the PD passthrough feature
If you do need charging then use a (more expensive) hub with a DC barrel input. Something like https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-Thinkpad-USB-C-40A9-DK1633-Docking-Station-Power-Adapter-and-USB-C-cable/193668840071 this.
Not all cables support video. You will need a fully-featured cable, which means USB 3.0 speed ones and (most) thunderbolt 3 cables.
What length do you need? Maybe someone can recommend one.
You can usually find passive cables up to 2 meters, and active cables up to 3-5 meters (such as this one).
After years of implementing different standards for Ethernet-over-USB, both Apple and Microsoft seem satisfied to move to the new CDC NCM standard, which is great. Windows 11 will be the first version to officially support NCM, it seems. That question implies that the NCM driver in recent versions of Windows 10 hasn't been working automatically for USB class 0x02 0x0d, which might explain a few things.
There's nearly zero public information about how implementations behave in the field -- at least that I've ever been able to find. A few embedded-driver manufacturers know more, but it's always buried in a commercial SDK.
Anyway, I'd been putting off the project for more than a year because I didn't have good test hardware available for Linux USB Gadget.
I recommend you check out Barrier, which is a free and open source solution for serving the keyboard mouse and clipboard from one computer to many others. Works great over Ethernet, still works well over Wifi.
Thanks for the advice - I guess that means we'll have to buy the converter dongle then. So does that mean the usb-c to hdmi cable we bought is just straight misleading marketing? They claimed that it would work for a Thunderbolt port with DP support.
Will go for an Anker. Currently living in India, so everything is overpriced but will suck it up. Still better than a USD 250 dock.
>the Corsair didn't work
Thunderbolt 3 docks can be based on Alpine Ridge chipset and those don't work with USB-C DP laptops, they require TB host (only charging would likely work, if dock and laptop support PD). Newer TB3 docks (Titan Ridge) and TB4 docks are "universal", so they would work, but there is not much benefit in spending $$$ for Thunderbolt tech when your laptop cannot take advantage of it (universal TB docks will "regress" in 2 lanes for video + 2 lanes for USB3 behavior, which is similar to what non-TB cheaper dock could do https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerExpand-Adapter-Delivery-Ethernet/dp/B087QZVQJX - resulting in at best one 2560x1440 60Hz on USB-C DP1.2 machines)
Here is the specsheet of the laptop: https://psrefstuff.lenovo.com/Detail/Yoga/Yoga_Slim_7_Pro_14ACH5?M=82MS006QMH
I haven't bought a monitor yet, but I want to buy a 4k monitor. Most of them have Both a DisplayPort and HDMI input. One I'm considering: https://www.amazon.com/LG-27UL650-W-Monitor-DisplayHDR-White/dp/B07MKT2BNB
Ah, yeah, I have this one in our GaN charger updates for this reason (and because it's a nice compact design). If you need 60W +18W, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LKK88FN/ looks like it has enough detection to do either 45W apiece when two laptops are plugged in or 60W laptop/30W phone. Not a well-known brand, but if RAVPower can't get it to you, that's probably a decent alternative with a reasonable price.
Looks like you need 65W so basically any battery that can output 65W power delivery to a single USB C port. Quick search found this:
There's tons of batteries from other manufacturers which I have never used I always generally recommend Anker, as they have never given me problems.
I would check your user manual just to be sure but the 87W above should basically power most mid range laptops.
You can do what I do:
Buy something like the Caldigit Element Hub and use a USB 3.0 USB-A to Gigabit ethernet adapter on one of the USB-As.
You still have 3 USB-Cs (TBT4/USB4 compatible) and 3 USB 3.2 Gen 1 capable USB-As left over for other peripherals.
You'll get 60W charging back to the laptop.
Just as an example, AmazonBasics makes a 6-inch USB-C to USB-C cable, rated at 60W.
This is dramatically thinner than longer cables (Amazon goes to 3ft, 6ft, and 9ft, each one thicker than the last).
If you really want to save on weight and bulk, a shorter cable is a win in both dimensions, as it's shorter and thinner.
If you can't sort out the motherboard I/O shield and trimming a bit of the plastic off the cable end doesn't work, the Cellularize brand USB-C extender has worked well for me:
Note that these extenders do not meet the USB-IF spec. High speed signals may be degraded and its possible you'll have lower bandwidth as a result. This is unlikely to affect the Oculus since I think the cable it comes with has a re-driver built-in.
Unless your GPU has native USB-C (which is becoming less common for nvidia cards after the 20x0 series, and is gone for 30x0 series), this is not possible with a USB-C PCIe card. The video signals are coming out of the back of your GPU, and they do not reenter your system so that a USB-C card can remux them for DP Alt Mode.
The exception are Thunderbolt cards like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ThunderboltEX-Thunderbolt-bi-Directional-DisplayPort/dp/B08ZS3D6JY
They have DP ports on them that are INPUT ports, meaning you need to plug in a short cable from your PC's GPU back into this card for the video to work at all.
Hi, thank you for the response! I looked online and I'm 99% sure that my laptop (Zephyrus G14) has DP 1.4.
If high refresh rates are not well supported via docks, would it be better to have just a direct DP to usb-c converter and use that? Something like this? I have another USB-C port I could use for mouse/kb/ethernet if it comes down to it. However, that is inconvenient just because of how my workspace is arranged.
Thank you for that link, it definitely seems helpful. I'll look through the options. One question there: If my port supports DP 1.4, will it support HDMI 2.0? (through the dock)
These work, sort of
(5 Pack) JacobsParts USB-C PD 20V DC Fixed Voltage Power Trigger Module 5A Type-C Female Input https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08NFL8RQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A9VT01DKM8XCB2K68HZ5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So does this:
Type-C USB-C PD2.0 3.0 to DC USB decoy fast charge trigger Poll detector 100W MA https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07T6LPP9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BGR8227M0GDMMT12QYK1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They are a bit dangerous to use because they don’t inform you how much power you are allowed to draw.
The Thunderbolt 4 spec does not relax the passive cable requirements, so in practice, the 0.8m passive 40Gbps Thunderbolt 3 cable is the same practical limit for a 40Gbps Thunderbolt 4 cable.
>as far as I understand from what the different sites have written, one of the main advantages of TB4 vs TB3 is that TB4 can be longer and deliver 40gbs while still be passive, but when I search on the web I can only find 2M TB4 cables that are active.
You're probably confused because Intel and the cable makers also used Thunderbolt 4 branding to roll out their new line of 40G active cables (which is how you're supposed to get to 2m and beyond), that claim to do everything (USB3, USB2, DP, TBT3, USB4).
Passive cables have not changed at all since TBT3. 0.8m passive for 40G.
If you absolutely need 40G at 2m, just buy the CableMatters one. It's the cheapest active Thunderbolt 4 cable (certified) at $59.
Assuming you're talking about a dock and not just a dongle, this one works great for me while switching between a Windows laptop, Intel MacBook, and M1 MacBook. If you have an M1 Mac, you can still do multiple monitors by installing DisplayLink drivers on your computer
I'm using the iVANKY one which seems like fitting your need. 96W charging, 18W PD, dual [email protected] monitors via HDMI ports, Ethernet.
>I don't know if these cables are part of the USB C spec but they are available:
This cable kind is defined in the spec, and the one you linked to is a USB-IF certified one from AmazonBasics, so it is a good one.
Only 3 ports and 65w, but I've been quite happy with the Minix Neo P1, and they do have the 100w 4-port P2 as well, though I haven't used that.
Because of the pandemic I'm not traveling/moving around as much so my use has been light, but happy thus far. For me the P1 is the right mix of size, power, number of ports and weight. YMMV.
Thanks for the throughout reply! I have updated the post with more info so that it's a bit more clear.
Reading your suggestions, I get the feeling that the Cable Matters option might be the best for my needs, because:
It seems to be available in Amazon UK at the moment and I could get it delivered tomorrow, which is nice. Just double checking though, is the DP port on this hub compatible with the DP 1.2 from my xl2546?
Seems like this 95W one could do the trick for you, no? 65W PD for the Thinkpad, one USB-C for the nav phone and then the QC port for the other phone... (using a C-lightning cable if need be).
I am doing something similar in my RV and am going to be using multiple chargers because I don’t see any single ones that work.
Be careful - many car chargers will work at both 12v and 24v, and some are misleading about what voltages they will output. Some won’t boost the voltage up, so can only do 20v USB C PD when running off 24v.
This one intrigues me. I am probably going to buy one soon. I don’t know if Amazon will ship it affordable to any 230v countries.
USB C PD Car Charger Dual Port Fast Charging Adapter with 87W/90W Power Delivery for MacBook Pro/Air, iPad Pro, iPhone,Galaxy,Dell,Lenovo,Surface and Compatible Ultrabook Laptop,18W QC3 for Android https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B086VKHX63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1G87QR26C111R1HEPHNH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Charger 1, via Amazon:
I have the Innergie, which I like, but i recently got the Minix Neo P1 that I've been happy with - more or less same volume/weight as the Baseus but in a more square-ish form factor. 2C1A ports, and it ships in the bag with international adapters that lock well in place (much better than the big ones that fall off all the time). I had both Innergies (folding prong and international one) which will now become backup chargers as this one does the job of three for me.
I have one of these:
It is VESA mount compatible, with 4 mounting screw points on the back. I've used it with a monitor arm before, but be advised that it's much lighter than a normal monitor, so you'll have to make some adjustments to the strength setting of your monitor arm if it was like mine.
You need fixed split for certification, they do not have a program for the fancy flexible split devices. Both the Freedy 60+30 and the Nekteck 60+30 are certified.
I have one of these and have been very happy with it too. This one is actually capable of usb pd and can charge a laptop.
I have an older Samsung that doesn't seem to be easily available anymore, but it's very similar to this LG model. On mine the cable isn't USB-C but it is removable like in the LG. So you can easily swap it for something like this cable if you don't want to deal with adapters.
I doubt there's much new design of CD/DVD drives these days, so the chances of a new product with native USB-C ports are probably slim, given the market. To me, something like the above is a reasonable compromise; YMMV.
You can get 10ft 100W cables without any need for an additional extension e.g. https://www.amazon.com/uni-Braided-Compatible-MacBook-Galaxy/dp/B07LF1FNRV
They even have a 15ft option.
At a certain point though, you'd be better off getting a lightweight AC power extension cord as previously suggested though.
Any USB 4 or Thunderbolt 4 cable will do what you want, you're over confusing the matter.
Cable Matters sells many.
Thanks for the feedback! Still waiting for mine...
The MB16AP have a built-in battery. I'm actually able to use it while keeping battery at 100% (at 50% brightness) when connected through the DisplayLink adapter to an USB 3.0 port on desktop.
I hope that the USB3.0 port will be able to power the device through the dongle..
If not, do you think that USB2HAUBY3 cable will make a difference?
This might be of interest to you, but I'm unsure if it will work with your Acer since it says it is TB3. But it has 2 hdmis and 1 displayport. And this one should definitely work with your Acer but it only has 2 HDMIs.
Also, you didn't mention whether you keep your laptop screen on while docked. But you should have better performance by disabling the laptop screen so it's not straining the igpu trying to run graphics for so many screens of different refresh rates and screen ratios.
Yeah I get it but thought you might wanna look into consolidating your docks and switch into one device. Closest I can find is this...
It's more than what you are after but does support 2 computers connected to it via usb-c and has 3 usb A + one USB C port for connected devices. So you can connect your first dock to that port and keep the second daisy-chained like you have today.
Just a mess of wires doing it this way really which is why I sought out the all in one option I am using and am on the hunt for an upgraded model 🙂
I would start with https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Chromebook-DisplayPort/dp/B07YN6W6TY, measure how fast Ethernet actually works (I still hope that it's ~200-300Mbit in practice). If Ethernet speed turns out to be too low and blocking you - research for better options like non-certified stuff later.
USB-C hubs with support of native DP over USB-C will have to be USB2-only to allow 100Hz+ with 3440x1440Hz for DisplayPort 1.2 systems.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerExpand-Adapter-Delivery-Ethernet/dp/B087QZVQJX allows 3440x1440 60Hz + USB3. (half of DP1.2 bandwidth + USB3)
DisplayLink may do more, but it doesn't make sense for higher refresh rates - it's laggy. DisplayLink is mostly intended for "office tasks."
I don't know the hub you linked and generally avoided recommending complete no-name brands unless I have some experience with specific models. I prefer at least smaller brands like Anker, Cable Matters, Monoprice.
I recently came across this Monoprice charger: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=41986&trk_msg=L3RCHK8J51K4FD5T0A90SB0MO4&trk_contact=NCDBO161LJLDC2GCK8JKM7O2J8&trk_sid=5GRE6TKM59Q330A85O71LMN9RK
And this AmazonBasics charger that is most likely from the same OEM: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B087MFJY22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_sq2bGbNKVRFBE
Distribution is 65w first USB C, 18w second USB C, and 17w for the two USB A ports. Single USB C output is 100w.
That's gonna be the problem. If you could to with one C out, you could for instance use this:
I've had that one in use almost daily for about a year, it's really good.
Its rly cool to be honest, after carrying gadgets like this i found magnetic cables/tips so now i can charge my micro usb - usb c - lightning devices using one single cable
Netdot gen10: https://www.amazon.com/NetDot-Gen10-magn%C3%A9tico-Smartphones-Dispositivos/dp/B07W93N1GB/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=netdot+gen10&qid=1610846820&sprefix=netdot+&sr=8-2
This is an all in one. I can't vouch for the company but the specs look right. 10hrs to fully charge the bank and does 18W QC 3.0 to the phone.
Yes, PD is pretty sophisticated in negotiating what the device actually needs. I'm more worried that you would benefit from 80W+ charger for Yoga when something like https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerExpand-Adapter-Delivery-Ethernet/dp/B087QZVQJX is connected between PD charger and the laptop - it will take ~15w for itself (and advertise less power to the laptop, so it will know how much is there available from the dock). But usually more compact devices are fine with 45w+
update: I did find this
which even has a similar crusty old display, only downside is I wish it would push more through the PD port, but given the form factor perhaps I'm being greedy.
Since you seem to be pro-cable matters guy, can you explain the difference in something on the list versus this that would be triple the price? CalDigit USB-C Pro Dock - 2 x DisplayPort 1.2, 85W Charging, Thunderbolt 3, UHS II SD Card Slot, USB C 10Gb, USB A x 3, LAN, 3.5mm Audio for Thunderbolt and USB-C Computers (Dual DisplayPort 1.2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VL675DT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_F-J8FbXZZVAPW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A simple dock for PD and to drive dual 4k at 60hz from Cable Matters is only $60? Granted the one in the link has additional ports, but seems like there is a huge price difference that I am missing.
Depends on the monitor and all
I have a portable monitor (https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ZenScreen-MB16AC-Portable-Monitor/dp/B071S84ZW7/)
It consumes < 8W (according to the ASUS datasheet)
So this worked great : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0874M3KW4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have it powered by a dell dock as of now for my test. I would like to buy a PD power supply adapter. The website says rapid charge through 65w AC. Should I stick to the 65W PD adapters or do I spend some more for the 100w options?
You can see a lot of these if you search for "PD 12V trigger", for example this one does multiple voltages (many sites sell these, see for yourself which one is best for you) https://www.amazon.com/Type-C-Trigger-Module-Supports-Output/dp/B08681QG7W
A note on the voltage, 12V is not one of the PD nominal voltages, thus not every PD supplier will output 12V even if it does 15V or 20V
Look for the brand Cellularize on Amazon - I believe they are based in Florida USA. They have the lowest profile adapters out there. Very high quality even if they are non-compliant per the USB spec.
Here's an AmazonBasics run of the mill 2M A-to-C cable, which you could use for charging from an older USB-A charger, or connect to your older PC:
7,10 €. It's not 1 €, but it's not too bad, imho.
What exact laptop and monitors (resolution and refresh rate) do you have?
macOS will work in "extended desktop mode" only with Thunderbolt 3 docks, not USB-C with DisplayPort docks. In other words, a USB-C dock that has multiple displays connected to it on macOS will at best mirror the displays (but the internal laptop's screen can show a separate picture).
For Windows/Linux USB-C docks for USB-C with DP can support multiple monitors via MST. USB-C can provide up to 1x DisplayPort bandwidth (1.2 or 1.4 depends on the devices involved), and to get USB3 (instead of USB2) you lose 50% of DP bandwidth. So it's possible via USB-C docks, but the amount of bandwidth is slightly more limited (vs. Thunderbolt 3 docks). Example dock with dual HDMI + USB3 (dual 1080p 60Hz would work on USB-C+DP1.2 with this dock).
PS: ignoring DisplayLink "USB video card" option for now.
> despite its ubiquity on televisions, HDMI Alternate Mode is a specification without an implementation (as far as we can tell). Our research turned up no consumer hardware that supports HDMI Alt-Mode by name. Instead, HDMI compatibility over USB-C is generally offered via DisplayPort or Thunderbolt 3 Alt-Modes using adapters.
Anecdotal evidence: this USB-C dock with an HDMI port says it "Requires DisplayPort Alternate Mode for video."
$6.99 on amazon.
From the product description:
>Charge & Sync: Uses USB 2.0 protocol for high-speed Micro USB charging and fast data transfer (480 Mbps). Has a 56KΩ pull-up resistor for incredible safety and reliability.
Anyway the only longshot idea I can come up with is a charger like this one and hope that the 15W port will do what you need with your adapters: Inateck USB C Charger with 2M USB C Cable, 60W PD Charger with Dual USB C Ports Compatible MacBook Pro, Dell XPS, Nintendo Switch and more other Type C Devices CC01001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H59NVSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_enr1Bb95J35PW. Your laptop could charge at 60W rather than 87W with this which is not ideal but workable.
Unfortunately however the item seems temporarily unlisted from Amazon.
There are still a few like that on Amazon, but they're uncommon.
Sometimes when certain combinations are uncommon, it means that the combination violates the spec.
This is the product https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Waterproof-Computer-Programmable/dp/B07W5PD6VS. Idk if it's a usb c to usb c, or usb c to usb a, but the usb connector is very slim compare to a normal usb a so I think it's a usb c? I just plugged in my PC usb a port and it still worked without an adapter
The TS-80P soldering iron uses proper USB-C PD and is available today: NovelLife TS80P Portable Electric Soldering Iron with PD 45W Wall Charger USB Type C Silicone Cable Kit,Adjustable Temperature,Digital OLED Screen Display,Fast Internal Heating,TS B02 Solder Tip https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07HP1P51J/
It’s by the same people that created the TS-100 that Pine cites as inspiration for the Pinecil. The Pinecil will be really exciting if they can come even close to hitting their promised price point, but the TS-80P is still a fantastic iron even at $100.
I'd recommend this Plugable 2m Thunderbolt 3 cable instead, they're top quality and a good company. 20Gbps only though due to length.
At 10ft they will all be somewhat thick and at least a little stiff, though the stiffness can vary somewhat but unlikely to be much better than your current option.
The comments on this as a random example https://www.amazon.com/JSAUX-Charging-Compatible-MacBook-Samsung/dp/B07W5HNCCF seems to suggest it's at least somewhat flexible but I can't vouch for it, the 2m Apple cable they are comparing it to is not so stiff though.
You'll likely need to shorten the length if you want a very flexible cable.
Any quality 100W USB-IF certified USB 3.1 GEN 2 (3.2) cable should do.
Like this one https://smile.amazon.com/Nekteck-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Certified-Chromebook/dp/B07X4GQ1SS/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=neckteck+100w+usb+c&qid=1601845654&sr=8-7
You really don't need anything special, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVKTP53 works. Not only is Anker a trusted brand but they properly derate and disclose that derate, that's beyond rare. By allowing for 100W input it can provide 85w charging, ample for any use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L3W79R3 is slightly cheaper, it is limited to 60W input however so it only provides 47W pass through charge, however if your laptop is charging with 45W, it's great.
> Lightning female to USB-C male adapters violate both Apple MFI certification and USB-IF spec simultaneously.
Are you sure?
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-USB-C-Lightning-Audio-Adapter/dp/B07R6MKJZH https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Lightning-Adapter-Earphones-Headphone/dp/B07XJR4YWB/ both claim mfi certified and anker and belkin both are typically reliable.
And I think the female USB C to legacy USB ban by spec does not apply to Lightning.
I have a few devices that have USB-C ports but demand A-C charging, so my workaround involves an USB-C to micro-USB cable and a micro-USB to USB-C adapter tethered with some leftover silicone shoelaces.
Define "cheap". In general a USB-C monitor will cost you about $100 to $200 extra. If you want a monitor that would normally be $150 that's a steep markup. I recently bought an ultrawide usb-c monitor and the cheapest I could find was the Philips 346B for $480. If you don't want ultrawide I think Dell has the cheapest options. If you don't care about power over the same cable then it's easy to just get an adapter instead.
A good USB-C dock is also very expensive. Even if the monitor is an extra $100 to $200 it can be worth it. I wanted to be able to hook my laptop and PC to the same monitor and have it also act as a KVM switch, and doing that through separate hardware would have been either very expensive or a mess of cables. I got the Philips 346B and it's about $100 more but replicating the functionality with separate hardware would end up being more.
I'd recommend AmazonBasics, as they are USB-IF certified.
Individual cables seem to no longer be listed, and they seem to sell their C-to-C cables in 5 packs.
Still, the cost for each cable is $8 a pop.