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My dude. That is an excellent first submission.
Slap this bad boy and a pair of cutting gloves on an amazon wish list, and let me upgrade you. You need those hands more than I need 30-40 bucks and I'm lucky enough to be able to work from home during these strange times.
HMU with a link to your list, and I'll get you going at least. The wish list won't let me see your address or name, so you can maintain your privacy.
Thanks for sticking with it (carving and medicine!), and for taking the time to share your work.
(I've made an assumption that you're in the states, I'm in the UK. So our time zones might not line up too well. If you're elsewhere, make sure you go to your local amazon page! :) )
Lots of different kinds of carving:
- Carving with knives (not just whittling), usually small things like figurines / characters or wildlife
- Carving "in the round" 3D sculptures like the masks you're talking about (done with gouges)
- Relief carving, where you carve scenes and whatnot into a flat surface (also done with gouges)
- Chip carving, where you carve geometric patterns into surfaces (done with gouges and special chip carving knives)
- Power carving, carving 3D stuff with power tools like a dremel, foredom or other micro motor. Good for bird carving.
- Chainsaw carving!
If you want to carve in the round (things like those masks) then you'd be best served trying to find some good books to read. I recommend Chris Pye's books, just search on Amazon. This can be expensive to get into as good gouges aren't cheap, but you can start with a few and work your collection up.
If you want to carve with knives a good way to learn is to just go on youtube and there's tons and tons of videos of people carving various things and you can follow along. Look up Gene Messer, he does all kinds of little figures. This is cheap to get into, just need a good knife and a strop with some compound to look after it.
If you want to power carve birds I recommend Lori Corbett's book "Carving Award Winning Songbirds"
I don't know much about relief carving or chip carving so can't help ya there. Chainsaw carving I know absolutely nothing. Don't do that one unless you have a teacher nearby hah!
Thanks, it's the flexcut detail knife. I bought it on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Flexcut-KN13-Detail-Knife/dp/B000ZRXO88/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491771039&sr=8-1&keywords=flexcut+detail+knife
Chris Pye is a great carver, and this is an excellent book, but I believe it's a little advanced for someone with no carving experience.
I'd recommend something like the Beginner's Handbook of Woodcarving or The Complete Book of Woodcarving to start.
Not bad at all for a first try! I like the ears. You really got the rounded-off silhouette of cat ears. My biggest suggestion would be to keep exaggerating the distinctive features of an animal, like the ears. Cats tend to have broader heads with shorter snouts than dogs. I think you'd get a lot of mileage out of something as simple as making the head more squared off, or even more football-shaped. Can't wait to see your next project!
I would recommend something like these in addition to some fine grain riffler files. I use these all the time and they would work well for what you need to sand. Note that they come in a coarser set too in addition to the one listed below.
5 Piece Sanding Detailer Set with 2 Extra Replacement Belts Per Stick, 5 Grits 120, 240, 320, 400 & 500 Grit Made in The USA for Sanding Wood, Metal & Plastics, Long Life Sanding Belts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GHS13V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_11C00KSYSG8H2RZSW24D
I started with this. Pick a piece of soft wood with little fiber like basswood and look for some basic tutorials so you know how to work safely. Those Wood Spirits people make are a good start to learn the different techniques.
Something I also like to recommend is to keep your eyes peeled for shisels and gouges in second hand stores and flea markets, if you would like to work with them in the future. Gouges especially are hard to find (at least where I'm from) and are quite expensive to buy new.
Keep your tools sharp, it's more dangerous to work with blunt tools, and good luck with your first carvings!
The one I was looking at was around $100 on amazon right now. I know its a little pricey but the portability and size are big factors for me.
Basswood which you can find at Michaels is your best bet for easily sourced wood. You can buy a large block and cut it down yourself or they also sell bags of small blocks. The bags of blocks is probably your best bet.
As far as tools, all you really need is a carving knife. I have all types but I will tell you that the Xacto brand carving knife that I picked up from AC Moore with a coupon for about $6 wouldn’t be a terrible place for a beginner to start. NOT a regular exact knife but the Xaxto carving knife. I think it was $13 without the coupon. It feels really great in the hand. My only caution would be that the exacto blades are so sharp and so thin that it cuts extremely fast so if you are just learning it can make it too easy to remove more material or go deeper with your cuts than you intended.
Also I purchased this knife on Amazon for $16 and it is really nice for the price as well.
Also a pair of gloves would be highly recommended. I would say that the injury you could get especially with that exacto knife could be devastating and not just inconvenient.
Other than a leather strop for touching up your blades.
I second flexcut, I have some of their palm gouges ans love them. JUST MAKE SURE to get the sharper equipment, its frustrating to not be able to use your tools effectively because they got dull. https://www.amazon.com/Flexcut-Slipstrop-Polishing-Deburring-PW12/dp/B00FX9MHIG/ref=pd_aw_fbt_201_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2W52B2BGRENKZWA0VM13
Prayer nuts were made out of boxwood, which, as you guessed, is extremely hard, but carves and turns beautifully, having a very close, regular grain. This is actually the same boxwood that you see planted as an ornamental shrub.* However, while the plant is common, it may take a century for a boxwood's trunk to reach three inches in diameter, so blanks are quite expensive.
*Specifically European boxwood in this case, but other garden variety species, like Japanese and Korean boxwood, yield pretty much identical wood.
They're like flat wood boards.
Like this:
Or this:
(Sorry for the long links. I hope they work. I'm not the best with technology)
I do not suggest this but the first and only thing I have carved I did with a Stanley knife. It was a Welsh love spoon. There was actually a benefit to this in that I could change the blade frequently to get the perfectly razor sharp cuts.
See finished product here
Just for consideration - Don't use wood at all if you don't have to. Use a styrofoam block from Wal-Mart
You can cut it with a hacksaw blade, glue it with a ~~glue stick~~ (*May not work, online they are recommending wood glue so take a look or use masking tape around the outside as suggested below), if you just have to make the joint you'll have some extra to practice with and one stop to get tools and materials, probably less than twelve dollars total. If you don't have to use hot glue for the cartilage and connective tissue then use paper towels/cotton balls taped together and dental floss/yarn with hand pressed staples for the ligaments.
Color with sharpies/cover bones in masking tape as necessary, stick the fibia to the tibia/fibula with appropriated twigs/a pencil, duct tape?
The duct tape might be good because you could make your circles of it staple them in the middle then attach cotton balls/ripped up paper towels or toilet paper to the excess in order to form the cartilage.
This method will be flimsy, but should be much simpler and a better use of time unless you really want a wooden knee joint. It should be similarly inexpensive too.
I like it a lot! Congrats for your work! :)
I am also a beginner, so cannot help you that much, but maybe can say my thoughts! What I found usually very good looking on carving is the difference in depth between two parts. For example between nose and cheeks it looks very good, but I think between eyes and eyebrows it could be deeper (mostly where eyebrows reach the nose). The difference in the depth creates the shadows that gives the 3D feeling, that makes carving better than drawing.
About the bear head shape, I started following these tutorials here that they are meant for drawing. Still drawing is somehow the first step to carve (at least for me) it gives the initial layout. So to understand more how it works (they are for the full animal, but there is a section on bear heads) you can give it a look. here there is also a section on ears, eyes and nose of bears if you want to add some details
Or there is this one. another option
Despite what it says however I would suggest honing fluid.
Here is the one I just bought a few weeks ago. 400/1000, for $20. The housing has a rubber type base that keeps it from moving when you're sharpening, and it has a cover, which is nice for keeping it from getting gross in my garage.
Wow @bandit69, I cannot thank you enoughbfor all the resources and information offered. This certainly has gotten me started on the path. The brand of knives that I have gotten my hands on is called Beavercraft. Knife set It was super expensive, but some idiot rich friend of mine decided to get it for me, and I would like to know if they are as good as their price says. Otherwise, I'd like to return and go for some cheaper/better ones.
In the past I've used 2 books the Carving Faces Workbook and Sculpting the Female Face and Figure in Wood (NSFW). The first book is in the American caricature carving tradition so less realistic and more expressive (a lot of the work on this sub is in that style). And the second is more focused on hyper realism. It also has photos of the same model's head from dozens of angles which I found to be very helpful. It also includes similar reference photos of a nude model, hence the NSFW tag.
I used this. I really liked it. I have brought it up previously on this forum and am starting to look like I work for them! But it's a nice easy project that comes with wood, a knife, a little sandpaper, finishing paste wax, and an instruction booklet. It's worth ordering a pair of kevlar gloves for ten bucks at the same time when you're starting. Other than that, watch a youtube video of basic wood carving cuts--you'll mostly just want to see how to do a push cut and a paring cut.
(Oh, I guess you might also want a coping saw or some means of "roughing out" so you're not removing the larger quantities of wood with a knife.)
Nice start!
Get yourself a carving glove. You only really need one on the holding hand, so you actually get a spare.
Here are the vise pads I was talking about, if you're interested. Not rubber as I thought, but nylon...still they work well to limit damaging the wood.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019VOT6JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got this $26 set on amazon a couple weeks ago and it has been working well, though I’ve never done this before so I don’t have much to compare it to, but it has everything you should need to carve some cool stuff. (I’m working on a chess set and some ornaments for Christmas presents)
No. Check out this thread
The Mora 120 is affordable and on Amazon
Most of those pieces can be carved with a couple of decent knives Here, I'm going to go against my best advice, but this can be found at Amazon:
Here is a Mora knife that can be used as a roughout knife that can be purchased at Amazon.
While this knife is OK for hacking away large amounts of wood (not my first choice by far), you really need a good detail knife. Here is one I highly recommend.
As far as the strop goes, save you money. A thin piece of leather glued to a 8" x 2" (+ or -) board will work just as well as anything you purchase.
I think I should have mentioned that I'm in the UK, so quite a few of those links might not work for me.
I did some more searching since when I posted and I found a few things on the UK amazon website that I thought looked good. Mainly the Opinel No.8 as a straight knife and this Kirschen gouge set. The Kirschen set is kind of expensive but it's the only set I could find on Amazon UK that had a few good reviews.
I also found another Kirschen set but this one has two gouges and a straight knife for £10 cheaper than if I got the Opinel and the other Kirschen set.
I'm not sure about the quality of the Kirschen straight knife so I'm considering getting the Opinel No.8 and the first Kirschen set. But if you know that the Kirschen straight knife is of a good quality, then I'll go for that one. Thoughts?
Would these tools at amazon be comparable to the ones you listed?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008349HCC
They look really similar - just not sure if quality be same. I was looking at some netsuke carving - these looks amazing and they do require harder wood. Recently i tried carving crow from monument valley out of hard ebony wood and i damaged my felxcut knife.
Thanks! It was my first real hair attempt. I got this set from Amazon. Cheap starter set, but sharp and does the trick. Detail tools
I use the different gouges to make shallow valleys for the main parts of the hair flow, then I go through, around, and over those with the V tool in random directions and varying lengths to give it that semi messy flowing look.
agreed, basswood is the perfect starting wood. you can get it for pretty cheap from amazon in smaller pieces, or hardware stores like here in a little more bulk and variety (i recommend both, i have both and will get more of both). Great for starting out and learning how to make the cuts and use the tools. then try out other woods as you feel more comfortable.
Amazon has an assort for $31.99 or so. I had a good experience with this.
Morakniv 106 is a go to all purpose carving knife for professional and beginner carvers (and its very reasonably priced) so i would recommend that (also it comes razor sharp. Mora 106 - Amazon
but i suppose if you wanted to try wood sculpting those tools may be more suitable. for that price you really cant go wrong. my guess is you would need to sharpen them before using. meaning you would need to invest in a sharpening kit.
Very nice!
Looks like an engraving pen. Engraving Pen Engraver Machine Electric DIY Precision Pens Cordless Mini Carving Tools Replaceable Diamond Tip Bit for Jewelry Metal Glass Wood Ceramics Stone - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM2C34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_gIxwFbKVMAYZP
Cool. I just bought the12pcs Wood Carving Tools Set-WAYCOM for $33.99 I thought about getting the beaver set but I ended up buying the WAYCOM set because of the cut resistant gloves. Although I like the carrying case for the beaver set better then the box the WAYCOM set comes with. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YDDM7G6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6lFtFbA1N2Q7H
I'm not a great fan of Flexcut knives, but they are well made and have good steel. So, that being said, I recommend the Flexcut set for a beginner, and they should last you a good while.
I wouldn't go any cheaper than that.
I've been using these for a number of years. You only need one for the holding hand, so a pair gives you a spare.
Make any handle bigger.
Get thermoplastic beads, warm them. Squish them around the handle and then grab it to set your hand shape into it.
https://www.amazon.com/Moldable-Polymorph-Friendly-Thermoplastic-COUNT/dp/B07B9TL7S3/
There are quite a few books out there, categorised by theme (eg fantasy creatures / wood spirits / gnomes / etc) which do a sort of step-by-step on turning a block into a figure and then have a section of pattern suggestions to practice with.
Once you're comfortable with the techniques you can put more focus into developing your own style, or creating homages to existing idols etc. Personally I found practice to be the best teacher - I was given a pack of basswood blocks and some knives and cheap chisels as a Christmas gift when I started out, got it into my head that I wanted to turn one of the blocks into a seated fairy type thing and just got cracking to see what I could do. Granted the thing ended up looking more like a Morlock and will probably never be to the point that I am comfortable showing it to the world, but I did get a very good handle on what I could do with each blade, how to visualise the final shape and where I needed to make cuts, so when I got too the books the instructions made a lot more sense.
I just got a set of beaver craft knives for around $30 and they’ve been great so far. Probably not as nice as flex cut knives which are a lot more expensive, but higher quality. As others have said, you get what you pay for and if you really want to be serious about this hobby it’s way better to start with a solid set of knives than a cheap one.
BeaverCraft S15 Whittling Wood... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P578XFV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the set I got and aside from the strop compound being iffy it’s done really well for me! You could probably go with just one knife from them that does most of what you need for now, see if you enjoy it, then upgrade later. Best of luck!
There's a famous Sweedish woodcarver that mainly used a knife like this. His philosophy was essentially the opposite when it came to knife size. When explaining himself, he deftly choked up on the blade so less than an inch of the 3.5 inch knife was showing and said, "now it's a short knife."
He carved a lot of spoons, and when you are turning a branch into a spoon, the extra length is valuable. When carving the figures and doing the smallish whittling projects you see on the internet, I generally use knives between 1.5 and 2.25 inches. It's nice to have a blade that reaches most or all the way across the block you're using.
Usually, I don't recommend sets, but the Flexcut Beginner set is a good start. If you have the money, the Deluxe Palm set on the same page is a very nice selection of tools.
A good knife for the general carving would be an OCCT Scout and for the runes, a small V gouge would be your best bet.
Yeah. There are a number of finishes I like, some are better than others for specific types of carving.
For stylized pieces I like Minwax Antique Finish. It's also a wipe on - wipe off finish. Depending on the number of coats, the sheen gets brighter and brighter, and when it fully cures, it leaves a pretty hard finish. Here's one of mine. I used one coat on the base and 3 (or more) on the seal.
Looking good! A few palm gouges will really come in handy.
Flexcut makes a pretty decent beginner's set.
Get a strop like this, you can probably find one cheaper with a bit of effort but it's just a strip of leather glued to some wood, if you have scraps lying around you can make your own for free. You will want some green polishing compound though. You will eventually need something like a whetstone, but you can go months or years without needing one if you strop regularly with good technique. I typically use my stones only when I've damaged the blade (typically by knocking it into something metal)
Also, can this be a good tool? https://www.amazon.com/BeaverCraft-Carving-Chisel-Carbon-Handle/dp/B07RWMSWN2/ref=sr_1_42?crid=2FGA06B6H3UET&keywords=straight+gouge+carving&qid=1666572641&sprefix=straight+gouge+carving%2Caps%2C85&sr=8-42
I know it's not straight, but the price is appealing...
Float glass is thick glass that is very flat. You want as flat a surface as possible when sharpening a knife (or anything else). The 3m lapping paper is a type of sandpaper but it's designed for sharpening. The best (in my opinion) is the stuff that has adhesive already, called psa. You just stick it to the glass. You do want to take care not to get bubbles under it.
I don't know exactly how a burr is formed (at the molecular level), I just know that it is important. The burr is "raised" by the process of sharpening. As you work the metal and the abrasive against each other, a rough edge is formed on the edge of the blade. You will be able to feel it on the bevel opposite of the bevel being sharpened. If you run your nail a against it, it will catch your finger nail. The rougher the stone, the more pronounced the burr. The finer the stone, the finer the burr.
Removing the burr involves alternately stropping both sides of the knife. The burr will eventually break off. It will come off in pieces or maybe a fine wire piece will fall off.
This is the kit I was referring to. I wouldn't worry about the finest grit. That's essentially what your strop will give you
First, it doesn't look like there are many (if any) woodcarving burs there. Check out this site for a good variety of carving burs. You'll want some of the coarser ones for quick wood removal and finer ones for detailing and finishing.
Second replace the chuck with this one for a wider variety of shaft diameters.
I should have clarified, when was it last sharpened with something more abrasive than the strop, although judging from the explanation you gave I think that the problem might not be either of the things I listed.
It looks like your compound isn't adhering to the strop very well. If the compound is coming off the strop it won't be as effective at polishing the blade. I would try warming up the compound with a blow dryer or carefully over a stove and applying it to the areas with exposed leather. You could also try rubbing some mineral oil or petroleum jelly on the strop after you put on the compound, it should help even it out. You should end up with an even coating of the compound that looks more like this https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/leather-knife-strop-green-polishing-compound-1045216855
It's also possible that your angle is off, if you color the blade with a sharpie and then do one pass on the strop, you'll be able to see what parts are coming into contact with the strop. Your goal should be for the entire bevel to be clean while the rest of the blade still has sharpie.
You should pick up a carving glove similar to these, a thumb guard and a strop as a start. A fine to very fine stone will be helpful in touching up blades in the future.
I asked about the price of the gouges, as they look very cheap and you're probably going to be very disappointed in them. You'd be much better off with something like this starter set of gouges.
You're also going to need a smaller detail knife.
Yep, this book will teach you all you need to know, this is a slight deviation from the pattern in the book but it will teach you all the tools and techniques that you need
It shouldn't require that much removal. I just made a copy of this drill-mounted strop for ours
https://www.amazon.com/Sharpening-Stropping-Leather-Polishing-Buffing/dp/B079427FKN/ref=sr\_1\_3
I just got a pair of these off Amazon. I settled on this glove to try from watching Carving is Fun on YouTube. He goes over the different types of cut-resistant gloves that are available along with the athletic tape he uses to make finger guards for his knife hand.
I use ultra fine point permanent markers or pencils.
I don't carve a whole lot, but when I do, I wear a mesh glove and wrap mesh tape around my fore finger and thumbs of both hands. Works great. The tape is here.
If you are going to carve a lot of hard woods, get yourself a Foredom and with the adjustable chuck it will accept a wide variety of burrs.
Get yourself some carving gloves - something like this.
You didn't say what tools you're using. Decent, properly sharpened tools can make a difference in that it takes much less force to cut the wood.
Finally, you really need to think about the path of a cut if it slips or accidentally cuts completely through. Think about the direction and the force of the cut. If there are any fleshy parts in that path, MOVE THEM.
I purchased this set recently and am pretty happy with it. https://www.amazon.com/Flexcut-Beginner-All-Purpose-Included-KN600/dp/B005EG033Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=30D7FCDOZKG11&keywords=flexcut+beginner+set&qid=1657578213&sprefix=flexcut+be%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-3
What's the blade made from?
I also improvised mine from a spare door handle spindle.
Not sure what your budget is, but the Foredom is a much more robust alternative. The speed is controlled via a foot pedal and it's reversible.
It will take any bit or burr the Dremel will take. The only downside is that it's not portable.
No, these.
JEEZ that's a long link, these work really well also these work pretty well but they aren't very ridgid.
Nylon sanding brushes work great for v-carves and high grit won't erode the details -
https://www.amazon.com/Abrasive-Nylon-Woodwork-Polish-Grinder/dp/B0787ZPHKN/ref=sr_1_20
For spoons and other less detailed stuff I use a mop sander.
Funny enough, I just used this gouge. It's not ideal for reaching the bottom very well but it did the job. I made the hole with this drill bit.
Thanks for the hint. Saw them online but never knew there was a term for this craft.
Second the Japanese Handsaw, easy to use even for a weakling like me
SUIZAN Japanese Pull Saw Hand Saw 9.5 Inch Ryoba Double Edge Flush Cut Saw Woodworking tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9XB1W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_PVNMQG43EJ6C6G21G4TT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I highly recommend a Japanese Ryoba saw if you want to make straight accurate cuts fast. It has 2 features that I really like,
1) it cuts on the pull stroke which I find to be much more natural than western push saws, this also allows the saw to be lighter
2) you're getting 2 saws for the price of one. One side has cross cut teeth which are beveled on alternating sides which makes it easy to cut fibers when you are cutting perpendicular to the grain and the other has rip teeth which are perfectly parallel which makes it easier to cut with the grain. Any saw will have one of these two patterns you can use them for rip cut or cross cuts but it will be better at one or the other. This saw means you don't have to choose. (There are some hybrid tooth saws out there but compromises are never as good as the real thing)
I have this this one which is $40 on Amazon and I love it
I have not got to try this yet, but seems to be higher quality. Got it on Amazon for a Christmas gift. And the whole store has lots of wood tools and wood. " The Beaver raft store. Limited-time deal: BeaverCraft Wood Carving Hook Knife SK1 for Carving Spoons Kuksa Bowls and Cups Spoon Carving Tools Basic Crooked Knife for Professional Spoon Carvers and Beginners Right-Handed Hook Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07652XL34/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_dl_PNDDN74PFCC8CS7W0AWS
Yes there's a pattern in Woodcarving Magic by Bjarne Jespersen. It's a really handy book with loads of these kinds of things
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodcarving-Magic-Transform-Single-Impossible/dp/1565235231
I bought these as my first set and I'm very happy with them. https://www.amazon.com/Power-Carving-Tools-Seven-Piece/dp/B0037MI3K2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=8T8UQ4AMWYWC&keywords=mikisyo&qid=1652310495&sprefix=miki%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-3
Not much of a carver, but I'll take a stab (haha knife...stab...knife....ok, I'll let myself out) since you're not getting any other replies.
I suspect your issue is that the knife kerf (thickness) is causing the cut out part to pry up too sharply, causing the tearout.
You could try scoring the wood along where you want the depth to be (trying to encourage it to tear out where you want it eventually.) Barring that, I'd use a band saw or a thin kerf saw (like a small Japanese pull saw like this: https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Mini-Dozuki-Panel-Saw/dp/B001G9ZEEQ) to bulk remove material, then carve the last bit of the way.
I'm late to the party but I'll add that set isnt even worth 50$.
Craft stores tend to rip you off.
Wood Carving Knife Set - 20 PCS Hand Carving Tool Set for DIY Sculpture Carpenter Experts & Beginners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVWD15T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X7912Y30N6749RDDYC8F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A flex shaft with a ton of different attachments. I started with a kutzall flame burr for the initial shape and then moved to a bunch of attachments from this set https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06Y42XY47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Being fairly new I'm still figuring out how to best use each attachment.
You can get the Flexcut beginner detail knife on Amazon for about $25. All you need after that is a strop and a piece of charging compound to keep it sharp. It will make things a lot easier.
OR, if a knife isn’t an option but you can still spend a little, find a good cut proof glove
I found this kit on Amazon. So far I really like it, idk if its the best but it works pretty well for me.
No wait, wrong link. I used the wax, not the oil. It's mineral oil and beeswax. Howard BBC012 Butcher Block Conditioner, 12-Ounce https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001ESTA30/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_2E642T0F9AHND1HMTHVS
I applied a butcher block finish first to saturated the fibers so it's hydrated. Then I used a buffer with a bar of pure carnauba wax to apply a hardwax top coat. It's all food-safe. The butcher block finish I use: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004G6X0J2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_039JVXBFQN3R9N4VJWF4
Okay so from what I tell about this product (I could be wrong but I'm going off the information given as well as the more useful negative reviews) I have bad news and I have good news:
Bad news - this seems to be a very low quality set of tools made from steel that isn't usually for carving tools. Additionally, the wood isn't described in any way other than being a "wood block" which could be any kind of wood. The best wood for carving is basswood (at least for beginners, you'll see a bunch of people on this subreddit carving in much harder woods) and I'd recommend sticking to that kind of wood for the time being. These two things combined would easily explain why you've had so much trouble carving your wood.
Good news - you only paid around $30 for the set so you haven't lost too much money with this starter set.
My recommendation: see if you are able to get a kit from beavercraft, they are a dependable brand and great for beginners, you could try this set, which will come with all you need
BeaverCraft Wood Carving Kit S16 - Whittling Wood Knives Kit - Widdling Kit for Beginners - Wood Carving Knife Set Wood Blocks Blank Whittling Knives Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y3SCJMY/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_NR6D28V0E4TP6H57R6Y4
(You may have trouble getting beavercraft soon though due to them being based out of Ukraine. They may have sets still in the states that you can buy though I don't know)
I’ve been using this kit alongside my “real” carving tools for years. Years. They’ll be sharp out of the box, but as others say, learning to sharpen your tools is absolutely a must. To that end, a 4k/8k grit water stone will go a long way unless you’re fixing a chip and need to reprofile an edge. On a budget, you can easily opt for very fine grit wet/dry sandpaper wetted to a piece of tile or glass. Leather strip (belt) for a strop.
I recently got this three pack of Flexcut knivesand have been very happy with them. They do just what I want them to do for character carving.
For a long winded reply, check out my response to this post
As far as pocket knives go, while not the best by far, they can be used for carving. In fact there are manufacturers that make pocket knives specifically for woodcarving.
Most pocket knives don't have a blade profile that lend themselves well to carving. A thinner blade with a sharper angled edge works much better, but pocket knives can be sharpened well enough.
I strongly suggest a knife with a locking blade, The blade can become slightly stuck in a cut, causing the blade to close as it's pulled from the cut. This has the effect of a potential nasty cut to the fingers or knuckles.
Finally, I strongly suggest a carving glove for the hand holding the piece.
These work about as well as any. No glove that allows flexibility is going to be 100 percent protective. You need to learn to keep body parts out of the way of a blade if it slips or the piece breaks.
Or this CZS Wood Carving Disc Grinder Shaping Disc Wood Grinding Wheel Woodworking Angle Grinder Attachment,Chain Disc & Coarse Disc,5/8" Arbor (1+1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088NL267B/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_WG4KFV2H39MWZTDX80E4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This would be another good choice ARBORTECH Turbo Plane | Ø 100 mm Tungsten Carbide Wood Carving Disc for Angle Grinder | IND.FG.400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA2IJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_SJZ8RMGHXT4XGA8FDN8S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would get an angle grinder and use this - ARBORTECH Ball Gouge | Ø 30 mm Spherical Shaped Wood Gouge Power Carving Attachment for Angle Grinder | BAL.FG.2000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752TXPKD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_SR1DC63N244CSYX6R1CE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Try these.
However, think about the direction and force of the blade if it slips. Look to see if there are any fleshy parts in the way. If so, move them. If you consciously think about this for a while, it will become automatic.
I don't always use a glove during carving sessions. and this practice has become second nature.
I actually ordered the BeaverCraft Comfort Bird kit (kit). I used the templates to shape it as per the comfort bird directions in the kit. Once I got close to completing the comfort bird as per the template, I felt like I could make it a little bit more realistic. I basically used pictures of the American Goldfinch to try and create more detail.
I am now currently working on wing texture, but I have only used the small carving knife from Beaver Craft and some sandpaper.
These are level-5 resistant, thin enough to manipulate your tools/blades, and have grip-dots on them.
These gloves do a pretty good job of minimizing damage. But as others have said, they're resistant not total protection. Also as a bonus, you only need a glove for the hand holding the carving, so you actually get a spare.
Also, as others have stated, think about the potential path of a blade if it slips or cuts through - both the direction and force. If there are ANY fleshy parts in that path - move them. After a while, this becomes second nature.
Boas, a Amazon é a tua melhor amiga. eu comecei com woodcarving com a minha Dremel e uns bits que mandei vir de lá. Entretanto através da lojadasfacas.pt comprei uma Morakniv 5*.... Tambem encomendei isto https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B0006HAOFI/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ... claro que tudo depende do quanto estás desposto a gastar.
As a way to work up to figure carving, what helped me start was simple decorative relief carving. You can do celtic, norse, or chinese knot patterns on knives, boxes, furntature (I've done cradles and work benches), wooden labels and placards, etc. It's a comparatively fast form of carving that doesn't take much skill to look professional.
When I started I followed the usual advice to get the simple carving knives and they just...didn't really work for me. Mainly, I think, because they didn't let me do the kind of carving I wanted. You could whittle or chip carve, but I wanted to do reliefs, figures, and text.
Eventually I got this set of gouges and chisels and that's when things really came together for me. I made a tiny mallet out of a large nut and some wood and things really flowed. Using the v gouge I could do beautiful traditional text and the various round gouges allowed me to do figures, floral designs, etc.
I think an important thing to recognize about carving is that there are actually a lot of different traditions out there, and they are all pretty unique. You may enjoy one and not another. So it's good to have a vision of what you think you would enjoy doing.
I use full-sized gouges. In my limited experience, I'll say that, most of the time, I just use hand pressure. However, you can get better control with a mallet, so, when I need that (like when outlining something with a V-chisel for example), I tap with a mallet. Will your rubber carpenter's mallet work? Absolutely it will! But it won't be ideal, and I think you'll get tired of it quickly. I use a small mallet with a round brass head. It looks tiny, but brass is heavy! This thing has more bang than you'd expect! It has a handle, yeah, but I don't use it. I hold the head of the mallet in my hand and tap on the chisel like you can imagine you might do with a rock. Works great! You never need a great amount of force (or at least I don't for the types of things I do). Just tapping gets the job done.
Bristle sanding discs are absolutely the best at removing all of those fuzzies very quickly and effectively without impacting detail (just be sure to use the high grit ones and move quickly over the piece). I use these on every single detail piece I do to get rid of those little fuzzies. You will be surprised just how awesome and effective they are.
A specific example of what I am talking are these …
Radial Bristle Disc, GOXAWEE 66Pcs (1") Detail Abrasive Brush Kit (1/8" Shank Mandrel) for Rotary Tool - Mixed Grit 80# 120# 220# 400# 600# 1000# https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SV63VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2RAYPMHQF05Z16K7T2CA
Ps good job on the carving!
Flexcut Beginner Palm & Knife Set, All-Purpose Cutting Knife and Detail Knife Included, with 2 Palm Tools (KN600) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EG033Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XDERSJ8XG8HVR7YDHS86?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A good set to start with...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YLET3E/ref=wms_ohs_product_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
thats what i use, work great. I have this stone and it works fine. For any serious reshaping and sharpening you'll need a lower grit stone but i feel like most craving sets and chisels will come preshaped.
Just remember to wet the stone with oil, I use water and its fine.
Lime wood in the UK is the go to wood for many carvers. It's the equivalent of Basswood in the US.
btw: You noted that you bought a "set of tools". Very cheap tools are not going to be very good.
I really suggest one decent knife, a carving glove similar to this (highly recommended), a strop and stropping compound to start.
Note that dull tools require more force to slice through the wood and are more likely to make nasty cuts in flesh.
I got this dust mask. GVS SPR457 Elipse P100 Dust Half Mask Respirator with replaceable and reusable filters included, blue, m/l size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SIIBFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glc_fabc_Q2KJBKAAJKTVE0NC0XMT
Kind of. It depends more on grain density and size.
The detail sanding tools I was referring to are these … Sanding Detailer Standard Kit, Coarser Grits, 24 piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039ZB24G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6XYS0TEWGBEVXDNGV0XN