What are /r/batteries' favorite Products & Services?

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No, it is absolutely not recoverable. It's utterly, irreversibly dead. Take it to a battery recycling place, and if you still need that battery grab a replacement.

Also known as a "B battery" it was used for vacuum tube plate voltages in early radios. You can still buy them for some crazy reason.

Since you haven't provided a budget or what the old powerbank was or a list of devices and how much you are using them.... I am forced to make some assumptions. I am 99% certain that this will get the job done.

> 1x or 2x 12V car battery or deep cycle battery

I wouldn't use a car battery. There are lots of reasonably priced LiFePO4 options now. They have a BMS built in and are designed to work with a similar voltage range as 12V lead acid.

> 12v/24v to 48V DC boost converter for POE system

I've had good luck with this style of regulator. Easy to wire up and so far have been reliable.

> and get the DC power directly from the batter when no mains power. I tried to set up this using a cheap consumer-grade battery tender and it failed within weeks

This is something that I am working on. So far the most promising option is to use a 13.8V regulator floating on the battery. A slightly lower voltage would be preferred for longevity but in theory this shouldn't be too bad. That regulator can use 8V-40V so power it from mains with whatever DC supply is convenient.

There are also adjustable supplies. Though these tend to either be open-frame or much more expensive. I am also still looking for an inexpensive overvoltage cutoff.

> is it possible to feed 12v DC power directly to the NVR instead of 48v DC ?. even my cameras have 12v DC input I need to do the wiring again to use it.

The wiring needs to be 4x beefier if you are going to use 12V directly. POE is 48V for that reason. Or do you mean to put a 12V battery at every camera and keep them charged via 48V POE?

VOltage does matter, you want to keep the voltage within the range of the motor. Typically 12V.

Any battery that's 12 V will do, the more AH it has the longer it will last (it will also take longer to recharge.)

I am not endorsing this link but this battery seems to be an identical fit: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-replaces-BP3-6-12-CF12V2-6-CFM12V3/dp/B00BSEOGYS/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=12v+3.5ah+battery&qid=1610074568&sr=8-5

Whats usually fun to do is to put a car battery in there, a lot more AH (electrical volume) so the kids can play longer. :)

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Yes, the tech could easily be upgraded to take advantage of the newer chemistries, but, that would involve changing the entire market, which currently is very dependant on disposable batteries, which have lower voltages. There would also be the risk of a user accidentally putting a higher voltage Lithium-Ion cell in a device not made for it.

The best would be for electronics to be made that can handle a wide range of voltage and accept both regular NiMH, disposable and Lithium-Ion cells.

There are devices, largely in Asia and Europe, that use Lithium-Ion cells, such as flashlights and headlamps. For example, the 18650 is a cell that is Lithium-Ion.

Here is an example of a headlamp designed to work either with one Lithium-Ion 18650 or three AAA cells: http://www.dx.com/p/cree-xm-l-t6-700lm-3-mode-white-light-headlamp-black-1-x-18650-3-x-aaa-159723

Keep in mind also that there are advantages to LSD NiMH (like Eneloop brand). LSD NiMH can be deeply discharged without damage. Lithium-Ion requires circuitry to prevent the discharge being too deep or it will never charge again. LSD NiMH can (now) be recharged more than 2000 cycles (a cycle being the equivalent of a full discharge and a full recharge). Lithium-Ion comes in many varieties, but most of them don't last that many cycles. NiMH requires far less electronic protection circuitry. It's big disadvantage is the energy density is lower than Lithium-Ion, but in many applications it isn't a big deal.

for these kinds of batteries the only place i've had real luck finding odd sizes is aliexpress. though amazon and ebay may also sell one. you just have to look.

the physical size is how you find a replacement. 523450 is the size: 52x34x5.0mm. double check the actual size in the listing with the old battery size.

found one: https://www.amazon.com/YDL-1000mAh-Battery-Rechargeable-Connector/dp/B07MKH7C1L/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=523450&qid=1630461004&sr=8-1

You should probably be doing this with watt hours instead of amp hours. "Watt hours per $" is probably a better unit to use. For example that Anker PowerCore which scores the "lowest" in $/Ah has 74 watt hours and gives you 1.62 Wh/$. Bigger numbers are better ^_^

For large stuff it is worth looking into some simple DIY options. LiFePO4 is getting very popular for RV/boat house batteries. They can be easily charged from the alternator exactly like a car battery too. Though it is pretty common to put a small solar panel on the roof and keep the battery topped off that way.

I'm not seeing these batteries on amazon.ca but this 12V battery gives you 256Wh for 3 Wh/CAD. LiFePO4 is very safe and these batteries have a BMS built in so everything is taken care of.

Add some 12V USB sockets and you are good. Of course this also makes it very easy to use traditional 12V appliances too.

What batteries are you using? Deep cycles should be maintained at all times as they will self-discharge which will cut their life short. You need a good battery tender, as most chargers can not do the job past 80-90% top-off.

I've been using this one on all my batteries from the car, boat, generator, etc. though a bit pricey it has been keeping them alive long past their original death dates.

https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-40-206-5-0-12-Battery-Charger/

I would recommend LiFePo4 12V batteries. If you just need 12V this battery should be a great option for you. If you need higher voltage you'll likely need to look for a different battery because some batteries have problems if you series them.

Even though other lead acid batteries may have more Ah for less $ at 30A they will have a fraction of their Ah, as they are rated to run at <0.1C. Imagine a bucket of water for the battery. If you pour slowly you keep all the water to go where you want it, but if you go faster you'll spill some. Li-ion & Lifepo are designed to discharge faster.

If you go camping a lot and want to try something more technical, a small solar panel could help maintain the battery. At least get yourself a voltage meter so you can tell if the charge is decreasing more than usual.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773BYS6P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ZB4DSNHRKC1CYHJ17790

Honestly, something like this may be the best solution unless your going for significantly longer runtime.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C7SNVW5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hbs.Fb96AM87K

It is a lithium battery with a regulator. You charge via USB-C. I have the AA batteries and they are legit.

I believe these are the droids you're looking for:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Electric-AA-Converter-Convert/dp/B015T7TERI

Keep in mind that you need to account for whether there's one battery, or two batteries in your device.. and if there's two batteries, whether they're in serial or parallel. There's a couple of these floating in amazon for each case iirc, so just buy the right one

you can use an app called disable usb charging to stop it from charging. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.bramantya.stopcharging&amp;hl=en

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so you can drain it to 30%, then stop the charging.

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for samsung galaxy family, its usually the "Easy" or "number 2" button that works for stopping charging. It need ROOT access.

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full disclosure: i made that app.

Let's look at the advertisement: 100-300W of power. These ratings have been Chinesed so assuming 150W will be safe.

Lithium-ion pouch cell (LiPo) batteries can be made using 3.7V nominal voltage cells. These cells have a low/empty voltage of around 3.0V and a high/full voltage of 4.2V

If you stack 5 of them in series you'd have a voltage range of 15V up to 21V which falls neatly into the 12-24V requirement. You need a BMS to protect the battery from overvoltage/undervoltage and overcurrent.

What capacity do you need? Let's assume you want a runtime of 40 minutes or 0.66 hours. You can use these calculations:

>150W * 0.66h = 100Wh
>
>100Wh / (5*3.7V) = 5.4Ah.

So you're looking for a 5S battery with at least 5.5Ah of capacity.

Pick a BMS with a current rating of about 10A more then your ESC (speed controller).

• This Charger is easy to use

note:

You could use a handheld drill battery, easy to buy and easy to use.

For a 10s lithium ion, you want a 36v/42v (nominal/max) charger. You may have to change the connector on it to match your battery. Here's a link to one such example...

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Adapter-8Ah-15Ah-Lithium-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B082WTY6M2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&amp;keywords=36v+42v+charger&amp;qid=1629682314&amp;sr=8-5

SLA batteries can take much more electrical/mechanical abuse than Li-Ion and much simpler to charge. Try to find a suitable sized SLA. Generally the more Ah the bigger size.

Start the engine and measure the voltage on the battery terminals. If reading ~14V then SLA can be simply swapped in.

After looking over aliexpress & Alibaba.com I ended up ordering from Amazon. Delivery time was the deciding factor

NINTHCIT 3.2V 280AH LiFePO4 Battery Lithium Iron Phosphate Cell Grade A DIY Pack for RV Solar Boat (4PCS/LOT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VH35F2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2F0DB7SSG992FAQWCT7F?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Is it this one? That's a typo in the listing, it's actually a Group 1 (dimensions) 8V lead acid battery. It should have been labelled as "1-8V".

Can use a standard 8V lead acid battery charger.

Haha, sorry.. I tried to put it into English best I could. I spend so much time using industry jargon, I forget what is and isn’t sometimes..

Yeah, an external charger would be good. A charge controller is good to have in any system. They’re usually hooked to solar or some other means of charging though, mainly to prevent overcharging. Stock van alts wouldn’t be able to recharge a 200ah battery. I’d recommend something like this as a catch-all solution if it fits within budget. You may not need it’s full recharging potential, but it’s good to have (you would need AC power to connect). I’ve worked with NOCO professionally before, and actually own that charger personally. Good company, good products.

Alas, that ship has sailed for me. It’s okay though..I live vicariously through YouTube and podcasts now lol.

I think this is exactly what I need. Truly just need the option to charge a simple 12v battery at home such as https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Battery-Miady-Rechargeable-Maintenance-Free/dp/B089VXSBC6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=lifepo4+battery&amp;qid=1624601600&amp;sr=8-3

This is what I started with. But I quickly realized that I won't have a dedicated charger. So I'm not sure if this is what I need

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJ96FTJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_SBV0PR5F6BZV035567D4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

You just need to charge a single 1S cell? If you want something versatile but user involved you can get a simple mutli-funciton balance charger. With this you can charge not just LiFePO4 but Li-Ion, NiMH/NiCD and Lead Acid, up to 6S/15S/10S. If you want something plug-and-play you need a dedicated 1S LiFePO4 charger. Looks. like there are lots of BMS+charger boards available but they have some pretty low overdischarge thresholds (2.1V? Pretty low IMO).

3ds battery

And the charging pcb

pcb

Now if it's inside of the system and hooked to the battery terminals I'm not gonna have any interference with the system or anything correct?

I've used a bunch of these micro-USB style TP4056 chargers and they work fine except the micro-USB connector loosened up on almost all of them and needed re-soldering.

Ok, that's a good start. So you just need a flat pouch cell. Arduino + Screen + Wifi will need less than 1000 mA, so TP4056 + protection will work and battery size will be based on how long you need it to run.

You probably will also need a 5V regulator unless you can find a TP4056 (charger) + protection + 5V out. (These exist)

Interestingly I came out with the same winner, FOXNOV at 0.79c per Wh. But also interestingly some of the others changed dramatically, like some that were double the expense Ah became only a few c more per Wh....

Ok. Yeah, this looks about right. The Energizer Lithium AA have almost twice the energy as the OEM battery. Two of the Li-Ion AAs are about the same capacity as the OEM battery but like a 1/10th the cost (lol). The ones I linked aren't USB but come with their own charger, which is probably better. For that price you could get a bunch extra so you'd have spares to swap.

This would be great if it is the case. Do you think it is possible with a cheap BMS like this? I have been searching for the documentation for this board online and so far I can't find anything

Thanks for the informative reply! I appreciate it. The module you linked isn't available, but would something like this be good enough in your opinion?

I've used this tester to get real info on 18650 cells - no use letting one low capacity cell spoil your project - https://smile.amazon.com/LiitoKala-Lii-500-Intelligent-Cylindrical-Rechargeable/dp/B07CNFV23C

Cool project! Thanks for posting this! Do you have any intent on adding lithium 9 volt batteries to your database? I would be interested to see how they stack up against the rest.

How do I tell if I have protected cells? This is one of the batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/TATTU-R-Line-1300mAh-Battery-Helicopters/dp/B01MTA0AY8

Try using a rechargeable AA battery (1.2v) vs. Standard AA (1.5v) that difference might make it a little less louder. (Weaking the output will also weaken the vibration ;) ) something like this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083B9H5WV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H1M-FbNYARYCS you can get these in walmart or best buy..

Yes, I would definitely recommend transitioning for the reliability and longevity. Well-conditioned, quality NiMH batteries like the Japanese-made Eneloops can last decades. I still have some in rotation from the Aug 2003 blackout. Once you build up a stock, you'll find you use them for everything, like remotes/controllers, door openers, toys, headphones, wireless mice, etc.

I would also recommend you use the Panasonic-branded charger that comes in the Eneloop "starter packs". If you really want your batteries to last, get a good conditioner like the C9000 and read up on NiMH chemistry specifically to understand how to keep them running well for years.

You’re looking for a battery tender. They make solar ones that work pretty well. Or if you’re parking it where power is available optima makes a great tender there are others but I have an optima so I can vouch for it.

optima battery tender

Amazon has a battery pack that is very close for <$15. This battery is a little smaller but is equal in capacity. The URL to it is:
https://www.amazon.com/EEMB-103395-Rechargeable-Connector-Certified/dp/B08215B4KK/ref=sr_1_82?crid=VC6K32YNO7E0&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=lipo%2Bbatteries&amp;qid=1606598553&amp;refinements=p_n_availability%3A1248810011&amp;rnid=1248808011&amp;s=hpc&amp;sprefix=lipo%2Bbatteries%2Caps%2C201&amp;sr=1-82&amp;th=1
This battery has all of the protections included on a PCM on the battery itself. Two of the wires are + & - 3.7 vdc. I don't have any idea what the 3rd wire on your battery is for. You are probably right about it being for temperature monitoring but I don't know for sure. If I knew what the battery came out of, maybe I would have a clue.

Unfortunately the one I use is sold out at Amazon.

Titanium Smart Fast 16 Bay Ni-MH AA/AAA Battery Charger AC 100-240V + DC Adapters MD-1600L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UNPM3M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7KB9ub1TAAHJA

It's a great charger, shows each individual cell, has a discharge cycle. I haven't put it through a ton of use, but it has held up very well.

I would take lithium cell, hook it up to a tp4056 module, take its load out to a step up module set to 5v. From the step up output run both the LoRa module and Arduino in parallel, feeding the arduino directly via the 5v and ground pins.

Everything gets the 5v they want and you can recharge the battery via USB.

I just received it today from amazon and was actually out taking it for its first walk through the mountains. I am amazed actually. I paid $27.

I really like how you spin the lens for spotlight vs flood light. I also like how you unscrew the one end cap to expose the charge port and status light (red for charging green for charged).

I also like how it easily detaches from the headband and can be used like a right angle flashlight while working on repairs and such.

I’ll feel better out on moonless nights like tonight with a spare battery or two in my pocket though!

SLONIK - Adjustable beam - 500 Lumen Rechargeable LED Headlamp 2200 mAh Battery - Lightweight, Durable, Waterproof and Dustproof Headlight - Xtreme Bright 300 ft Beam - Camping and Hiking Gear

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KNK1424/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Ws0oFbDYZWDPN

Edit: no red light which was a downside for me but love the easy 5 different brightness settings!

Any 4.2V li-ion charger would work.
<1.1A charging current would be best.
This would be easiest: link

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You have to remember that connectors can be cut off and re-soldered. Do not stare blindly on the precise type of JST-connector.

Buck Converter my friend, here are some cheap and effective ones: https://www.amazon.com/Zixtec-LM2596-Converter-Module-1-25V-30V/dp/B07VVXF7YX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=6PGK84S1X0Q4&amp;keywords=buck%2Bconverter&amp;qid=1670461116&amp;sprefix=buck%2Bconverter%2Caps%2C147&amp;sr=8-3&amp;th=1

That is a shame. Those were great chargers.

> Have discharge / refresh function

The refresh function isn't very common. All it does is discharge and charge a bunch of times. Maybe 30 times?

> Good to have: able to charge AA lithium rechargeable battery

If you mean 14500 (4.2V) cells then there are plenty of those. If you mean 1.5V proprietary cells then there is nothing for those.

Some nice options I see are the Opus BT-C2400 and the Miboxer C4. The C4 can also do larger batteries and li-ions.

If you got one that supports trickle charging, you can leave it on indefinitely and not worry about overcharging. Low and slow.
https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Maintainer-Motorcycles-Charging-Indicator/dp/B0B7X1J4LM/ref=asc\_df\_B0B7X1J4LM/

Basically, you will have to cut open the wrapping, and since the cells are already soldered/tabbed in series, you will have to connect the balancing wire between the batteries, and the positive of the first battery to B+ and the negative of the last battery to B-, and a charge will be applied through P+ and P-

Like this one for example: https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Battery-Protection-Balanced-Discharge/dp/B082VLCDYM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=HJ0LCMQIWIQ4&amp;keywords=3s+bms&amp;qid=1671567716&amp;sprefix=3s+%2Caps%2C805&amp;sr=8-3#customerReviews

I found these new 1.5V aa rechargeable Li-ion batteries: https://www.amazon.com/XTAR-Lithium-Rechargeable-Low-Voltage-Indication/dp/B0B27JQKPR/

Yeah that jump starter is not legit. Its got a total volume of 0.54 liters. If it were a block of solid battery then it would be just barely possible with the best cells on the market. I would expect the real capacity to be half what is claimed.

The 12V 30Ah LFP battery could still work for 15V output with a boost regulator.

Like this4s bms

Are you certain the bus won't have electric outlets?

> the 12V the console needs

Is 12V okay? Everything I see says the stock adapter is 15V.

If 12V-15V is okay then the simplest thing would be a 12V 30Ah LiFePO4 directly wired to the correct plug. This is probably all that your budget allows for.

The easiest option would be a 400Wh power station and the stock AC adapter.

I'm sorry but I'm not very familiar with these terms. What would you recommend I do? Basically, I need to replace a 9.6V battery pack with a female connector, as to connect with the male connector attached to the RC car pictured above.

Could I use this battery pack and use the plug adapters you linked for me?

Then change out the plug on the car to match with the replacement battery.
https://www.amazon.com/Youme-Tamiya-Battery-Connectors-Silicone/dp/B072QYFGRB/ref=sr\_1\_22?keywords=mini+tamiya+adapter&amp;qid=1671415563&amp;sr=8-22

This is the closest I found, but the battery connector is female and I need one with a male connector that I need. Also, here is the RC car.

Don't worry about that

Why don't you purchase one from Amazon?

Here, I found a exact replacement with higher capacity: https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-0GP-0100-0S11GTSF01-A0/dp/B0B74S8145/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2V77F82G38L6Q&amp;keywords=kindle+battery+mc-354775-05&amp;qid=1670819542&amp;sprefix=354775%2Caps%2C123&amp;sr=8-7

You've got to be kidding me.... And no 5v isn't okay at all.

You play with lithium batteries, but don't know that they need a dedicated BMS?

Im surprised you haven't burned your house down yet.

And they are 4.2v, not 4v.

Here is a BMS for your pack: https://www.amazon.com/Anmbest-Charger-Protection-Lithium-Battery/dp/B07KSQY67X/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_4_1/146-5121454-4673269?pd_rd_w=KeKp2&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.1e7a0ba4-f11f-4432-b7d8-1aaa3945be18&amp;pf_rd_p=1e7a0ba4-f11f-4432-b7d8-1aaa3945be18&amp;pf_rd_r=D5XE4EVNZYW69MNJWQHT&amp;pd_rd_wg=GLZuG&amp;pd_rd_r=c7faf7f6-defd-4030-9b7a-73f94d613f4c&amp;pd_rd_i=B07KSQY67X&amp;th=1

Good grief...

My advice?

Watch DIY power bank build on YouTube, there are plenty that go into depth on how they built it; you could get some ideas on how to layout your circuity.

But I know where you can get your DC-DC converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVL77T/ref=sspa_dk_crr_aax_0?psc=1&amp;sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9jcnJfc2hhcmVk&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNjdQNlFXQUI2WTImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4ODQzMDJVTTFEM1Y0TFcwTkImZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDUyNTU5NDE3RkVBT1gyRDZVUzAmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9jcnJfc2hhcmVkJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

It's QC 3.0, and is in a slick profile.

Then perhaps this is what your looking for?:

https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Boost-Module-Input-Output/dp/B08NWK6NR4/ref=pd_bxgy_img_sccl_1/139-6626344-7114645?pd_rd_w=5CXYz&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.7f0cf323-50c6-49e3-b3f9-63546bb79c92&amp;pf_rd_p=7f0cf323-50c6-49e3-b3f9-63546bb79c92&amp;pf_rd_r=51RJTBW1772WNVFSERXE&amp;pd_rd_wg=nIYiN&amp;pd_rd_r=d500a312-23b4-4921-8e97-45fc7606d752&amp;pd_rd_i=B08NWK6NR4&amp;psc=1

That is a 18650 Li-Ion Cell with a JST plug.

It has no charging protection unfortunately; all the protection is in the USB head.

To buy more, just search up "RC car battery 3.7v" on Amazon, and you will get a variety of results with different Mah.

The more Mah, the longer the battery will run your application, but it will also take more time it will take to charge.

Heres one for a 1200Mah battery pair: https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Off-Road-High-Speed-Climbing/dp/B08XNMYVDW/ref=sr_1_9?crid=QWDB73UU0HBV&amp;keywords=rc+car+battery+1200mah&amp;qid=1670504503&amp;sprefix=rc+car+abttery+1200+m%2Caps%2C542&amp;sr=8-9#customerReviews

Hope that was helpful!

-ND

For 10 days you should probably look into a solar charger. They require direct sunlight to work best. This is a good brand that trickle charges during the day and stores it in a battery bank. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429K8SO/.

Alternatively, you could get a foldable solar panel without a battery which can produce more power. This is a really good brand. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082HPTZ3P/ I’ve had one since 2020. It’s been in the sun for weeks on end and rained on. Still puts out plenty of power.

Don’t get those cheap battery banks with a built in solar panel on the top. Those are a gimmick.

Perhaps I worded my response wrong

What I meant was that using a generic no name charger for charging AA batteries is never a good idea, since they are usually made with sloppy tolerances and circuitry.

And as others have said, this might not be a genuine technoline.

Instead buy a charger from a trusted brand, like Panasonic.

For example, This AA charger (Made in China, but held at Panasonic/Eneloop standards) and 4 rechargeable batteries (made in Japan).

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-eneloop-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=29XKGHUPTGWY3&amp;keywords=panasonic%2Baa%2Bbattery%2Bcharger&amp;qid=1670374732&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=panasonic%2Bbattery%2Bcharger%2Celectronics%2C136&amp;sr=1-3&amp;th=1

Yes you can definitely recharge this; I have salvaged 15 so far, ranging from 280 - 1500 Mah.

They are li-poly batteries, and are in the same family as li-ion batteries, which is the kind of battery in your phone.

I charge them with a TP4056, in which I changed the rprog resistor (The resistor that controls the charge current) to a 10k smd resistor, which sets the charge current to 100Mah, so I can use it to charge any and all batteries that I salvage.

There are guides on how to do this on YouTube, and you can get some TP4056's here: https://www.amazon.com/Songhe-Charger-Module-Protection-Li-ion%EF%BC%8810pcs%EF%BC%89/dp/B082XJXQS6/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2YPYE4MCKV4KX&amp;keywords=tp4056&amp;qid=1670170354&amp;sprefix=tp405%2Caps%2C396&amp;sr=8-9

For these li-poly cells, you want to charge them at 1/10 of their capacity, but I found 100Mah still works fine, even for the low low capacity ones (280Mah).

Now while it is quite despicable that they put these into so called "disposable" vapes...

If nothing else, I get free batteries that have only been used once.

Cheers,

-ND

I would recommend getting this Adafruit lipo charger; it charges at 100Mah default, so it should be good for your battery.

Adafruit Lipo charger: https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Micro-Lipo-MicroUSB-Jack/dp/B00MJ0HOKS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1D756OG8SKX6A&amp;keywords=adafruit+lipo+charger&amp;qid=1669779860&amp;sprefix=adafruit+lipo+char%2Caps%2C582&amp;sr=8-3

Just connect the red and black of the just cable output to your red and black of your battery; the module has led indicators to tell you the charging status.

The Yellow Wire is probably ground or for thermistor sensing; you can ignore it.

You can't use the battery when the electrolyte is at freezing temperatures. Keep the battery in a thermally isolated enclosure with heating pads. They have built in thermostats.

Looks like everyone explained why it wouldn’t work. Depending on your needs you could use a power supply the covert the voltage for you. I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V3L4YF3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/ActionHeat-3-7V-Rechargeable-Battery-Socks/dp/B08QDLMSFX/ref=asc_df_B08QDLMSFX/

I would imagine the cheap grade 5 hardware thats zinc plated would be the most likely to cause serious issues with galvanic corrosion if moisture were to get in right? This would be a nice little kit to have around for when you need a nickel plated nut or bolt. Idk if I trust the plating for that price but theyre not easy to find. https://www.amazon.com/200Pcs-Assortment-Plating-Electronic-Products/dp/B095SCQ94F

It’s hard to tell the size from the photo, but it looks like maybe two LR44 Batteries would fit.

A 6V 12ah SLA?

Like so:

https://www.amazon.com/Powersonic-PS-6100-Replacement-Battery-Streamlite/dp/B06WGQYMR5/ref=asc\_df\_B06WGQYMR5/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=385286500718&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=15040286537332392030&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&...

So.... Why not use rechargeable 123's?

https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Batteries-Yofraro-Non-Rechargeable-flashlights/dp/B0855MC6VS/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?crid=LVZTI1H8ZNL0&amp;keywords=rechargeable+123+batteries&amp;qid=1667998422&amp;sprefix=Rechargeable+123%2Caps%2C114&amp;sr=8-2-spons&a...

So here is the goal I guess, to use something like the link below which has solar panels and a battery to go from usb to charge a 110v. So that If I needed I could charge power tool batteries and if the power is out. I realize there are options with the 110v in it for $150 more but more than likely I will never use it,

battery and solar

As the other poster stated, unless you are planning to swap out the entire charging circuit, no you cannot put a rechargable AA (NiMH) in its place.

Here's a suitable replacement:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Rechargeable-Lithium-Polymer-Connector/dp/B09FFGQ8RP/

I use EBL C and D rechargeable and don't have any issues with them.

This is the charger I use

https://www.amazon.com/BONAI-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries-Discharge/dp/B075MBQMFJ/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=3I7VR5MK8V3BC&amp;keywords=bonai+battery+charger&amp;qid=1666994497&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjc2IiwicXNhIjoiMy40OSIsInFzcCI6IjMuMjgifQ%3D%3D&a...

You probably want a 12V DC to DC charger, though they are rather expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Tecmate-Optimate-TM-500-12-8-13-2V-LFP-Lithium/dp/B011J76CFE

Power it with any big 12V battery. LiFePO4 would be easiest to carry.

It doesn't have to bee that thick, you might be able to find a pre-made junction box or breaker box that would fix all of the batteries inside.

For fire proofing, the simplest solution is to use a layer of some fire proof material like Ceramic Fiber Insulation.

Worst case, the batteries could explode or shoot a jet of flame out, and you want something that will contain the force of it going bang and not catch fire if it does.

Another good option that will be that might be the most cost effective in the long run is to use low self discharge Ni-Mh cells. You could get rechargeable D cells and a charger for them. Or they also make these adapters that let you replace each D cell with 3 AA rechargeable.

I would save yourself the hassle and "splurge" 7 bucks in this

Or even this If you want one with Bluetooth.

Thanks! I did quickly realize that I didn't have the right mc4 cables that the charge controllers were looking for. Or red/black, basically.

That said, I have this solar generator that I ordered that I think might do the job of taking in whatever voltage my solar panel gives and outputting a more controlled, lower voltage. That said, I think I will add a multimeter to my list of future items because I have no easy way to check how much juice I'm getting out of chargers/solar panels.

Normally when you charge with a solar panel you use a charge controller to set the appropriate voltage and current for the battery. The solar panel you are using is just outputting the raw panel voltage, which is too high for safe regular charging and will damage the battery. To do this properly you really need a charge controller like this https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Intelligent-Regulator-Paremeter-Adjustable/dp/B08NFSCZ4V or a regulator like this https://www.amazon.ca/DROK-Converter-Step-down-Transformer-Stabilizer/dp/B00JUFJ1GA set to around 14.4v .

Sounds like your using all USB devices. Just buy a USB power meter like this.

Can i ask what your project is? Do you need full linux or could you get by with an embedded MCU? RPi is not really the best if your seeking Ultra low power.

I assume you are speaking of a battery for the Mavic? They are 60Wh each so you would need a minimum of ~300 wh of battery to charge them with inverter losses. It would be much more efficient to get something like this and skip the inverter all together.

If you are willing to go aftermarket, you can get something like this which is usb-c and much more compact. You could use it with any off the shelf USB PD power bank too.

Ditch the 4 USB converters you originally planned and get a good 100w USB-c PD power bank chip or 12v converter and that would kill 2 birds with one stone.

If your laptop also consumes less than 100w while charging, then you can get a usb-c adapter for that too and just buy a single off the self power bank for all your needs as usb pd does 5v, 9v, 12v, 15v, and 20v output which covers the gamut for all the needs you've stated so far.

> I'm still shocked there appears to be no rechargable option!

It is a weird uncommon battery size that the manufacturer custom made for their product. Also replaceable rechargeables make less sense as batteries get smaller.

> I've heard you can splice open the outer wrapper and it's actually a couple regular sized button cell batteries under... but I haven't investigated that yet.

Yup. From the very page you linked: "One assembly made with two CR-1/3N cells shrink wrapped together." And those button cells cost about $1 each normally.

Well if you need constant steady 6 volt supply. Then something like lithium cells could work. Only issue being they will probably have lower power output somewhat around 1-1.5 amps. Along with the lower capacity what with there needing to be an on-board protection circuit/charging chip.

Not recommending these specifically but you could look into something similar.

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Charging-Quick-Charge-Fuvaly/dp/B07QW531W2

It depends on how 'big' you want your 'extra' battery to be.
Only checked the first search result, if you have something like this then your car battery and alternator will be fine.
I have no idea how long (12V) charging takes (which also depends on how much you used the night before), and I strongly recommend using a 'cigar lighter' outlet that does NOT work when you switch off the engine, to prevent draining the car-battery.
How well it works to 'jump-start' the car, no idea.

If the text says "- AA 1.5V +" then that definitely refers to ordinary alkaline Duracell/Energizer/off-brand AAs like you get in any supermarket, such as these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Duracell-Plus-Alkaline-Batteries-MN1500/dp/B093C9B1HK/ You said you've tried several types, are you sure that they were AA? If AAs don't fit that's another issue entirely, perhaps the thing you're trying to use is a bad product.

There's no Ni-MH that does 1.2v

There are rechargeable batteries that do 1.5v, just that I am not sure about the brand.

https://www.amazon.com/TENAVOLTS-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger-Batteries/dp/B082F5YVH2/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?crid=1HHSOFMFKHHXM&amp;keywords=rechargeable%2BLithium%2BAA&amp;qid=1664078725&amp;sprefix=rechargeable%2Blithium%2Baa%2Caps%2C88&amp;sr=8-2-s...

Amazon US has them...

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SBC10-100-US-Single-Battery-Charger/dp/B01H45Z7JM/ref=asc_df_B01H45Z7JM/?

https://www.amazon.nl/alkaline-knoopcel-vervangt-rekenmachines-cameralakens/dp/B00151AIUU/ref=asc\_df\_B00151AIUU/?tag=nlshogostdde-21&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=494733136982&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=8634148001867527212&amp;hvpone=&amp;...

Yes something like that. If dad gets stranded, could something like that give him "an extra mile". I think the SLA are 12V 35Ah each. That gives 800+ Wh. One you listed on Amazon there is about 10% of the capacity - losing some in efficiencies. But as you asked - is it a good idea?

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Alternatively would it be better to get a battery pack that also has a 110V AC output and use his included charger AC charger. (Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerhouse-Portable-Charger-Delivery/dp/B08F53MW17 ) I think it provides 24V 3A so should be under a common 100 W output of them.

Something like this?: https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-PB240A1-Rechargeable-22400mAh-82-88Wh/dp/B078T7M9HZ/

> Output: 24 volt (29.4V-21V ... the 24V output port voltage is not constant)

You would basically be connecting lead acid batteries directly to a 7S li-ion pack... I don't know if that's a good idea.

you can buy TP4056 charger module, default resistor is set to 1A output, you can change the resistor and set it to 500mA or 300mA or use the default. and get something to connect the battery and Tp4056. It's much safer with TP4056.

or you can buy already built in charger / universal battery phone charger
like this : Universal Battery Phone Charger

https://www.amazon.com/LC16340-Rechargeable-Battery-880Mah-Flashlight/dp/B08NSLCKSP

Amazon is just the middle man from you to the seller of products. They don't test the products as it is not their job to do so. People use Amazon for their ease of returns.

I am not sure this is what you had hoped for and it does not include a dock. But this should get the battery charged, if it is still any good. Nickle Cadmium really are not long life batteries. At least they seem to live longer than Nickel Metal Hydride.
https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Charger-8-4V-9-6V-Connector-Standard/dp/B004W8H5CM

Quick story: My job, an IEEE coworker designed a product that uses 4 NiCAD cells. I did all I could to insure those cells balanced and in top shape before install and testing. His charge circuit only lacked temperature monitoring. However one by one, all of them on the shelf have failed. I generally have to disassemble the device and remove the cells which have broken down and leaked. I think they were all Tenergy brand.
Given what i have seen, I think it's possible due to age this ones not coming back.

https://www.amazon.com/daier-Balance-Lithium-Battery-Protection/dp/B07RHZMXPD Couldn't find many 5s li-ion bms on Amazon, and other options seemed really expensive, so I'll see how this cheap one works. Gonna run lights until it shuts off, then measure each parallel bank to see what it shut off voltage is.

First I tried this one https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Battery-Protection-Li-Polymer-Charging/dp/B08NJJQ6D9 Because the description specifically said 18650 battery pack and it just looked more, idk, professional? I don't know how to say it but i don't know much about circuits but it just looked less cheap than the one I ended up using. But I guess it's specifically for lipo batteries or something, it would not work with 18650s. Someone in the reviews said it's specifically for lower voltage lipos

This would be fine if you don't mind the D cells taking 17 hrs to charge and have a USB C phone charger to power it: https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Universal-Battery-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B08W2K9SM2/

https://www.amazon.com/M515UA-ES56-M515DA-EJ221T-M515DA-BR294T-M415DA-EK274-F515JA-AH31/dp/B078LFCCWP

Ok you need a 19v 2.37amp. You can use another 19v adapter with a higher amp if you need to. If you need to order one, the link above should work.

this?

Please explain why not for my educational purposes, because right now I have a portable 60w portable charger that I directly connect, but maybe that has a built in charge controller? There are 10w trickle solar chargers that I do not think have a charge controller, explain that?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZZ5SRJ6/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

thanks, from my experience the whole package with bms is pricier and i would not mind a bit of soldering and diy.

Is it ok to use battery cases for 18650 batteries as I dont have a spotwelder?

Yes but then you should use a bms (battery management system) like this https://www.amazon.de/Youmile-Ladekarte-Lithium-Batterie-Batterieladeschutz-Doppelfunktionen/dp/B07XLLN2MZ/ref=asc_df_B07XLLN2MZ/?tag=googshopde-21&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=427625050512&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=10208364193828048681&am...

That handles your charging and protects the 18650 cell from undervoltage and overcurrent. Add a button between the BMS output and the leds and you’re done

I will say. Although Hans put it pretty bluntly, if your pack has more than 100mV difference between the cells, it would be a really good idea to put them all in parallel and top balance before you put your pack into service. The 95mA balancing current your bms has would take months or years to correct a large imbalance. And if it only balances while charging (alot of them do this for some reason) with your balance start voltage at 3.55 and max cell voltage at 3.6v, this leaves only a very small time span for balancing to take effect.

The balancing power of your bms would probably be enough to maintain the pack after an initial top balance, but would take years to correct an imbalance by itself.

Something like this is all you need to manually balance. Set it to 3.55 or 3.6v with a multimeter, and let your pack charge / absorb for as long as it takes. (Could be like 2 days if the pack isn't already full).

Also this could work

https://www.amazon.com/Onyehn-Lithium-Battery-Protection-Charger/dp/B07D3SQYKJ/ref=psdc_10967761_t2_B094TYZYN1