This looks like him! The manufacturer has “Flare” as the name haha, they must know their bettas!
You can get it on Amazon! I found it from /u/Spiritmetaphor post a little while back :)
Simply search for aquatic cup. Here's the first thing on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Senzeal-Crystal-Aquatic-Aquarium-Aquascape/dp/B074T8BLCF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=aquatic+cup&qid=1605464200&sr=8-3
Now slowly plant some real plants in the back over time like java ferns and it would look amazing. I love your design. Do you have a heater? If you live somewhere cold you’ll want to get your buddy one of those before the winter comes. https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Submersible-Aquarium-Electronic-Thermostat/dp/B000OQO69Q?keywords=5+gallon+heater&qid=1538425836&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3 I have this one in both my tanks and I like the way it works. If you need any help or advice I’m here. I’m still learning myself but I can try to answer.
Yes! Of course here is that link! betta mug
Not sure it's an actual log. This is a floating log I had heard a lot of good things about to provide a happy aquarium for your betta. Here is an Amazon link to what I have. My betta loves his!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027ITKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_NKNMGMDF3EKPZRT2901C
hello, thank you for the advice and i have researched better options for Charlie and i think https://www.amazon.com/Koller-Products-Panaview-5-Gallon-Aquarium/dp/B00KIRR8BY/ref=nav_ya_signin?keywords=5+gallon+fish+tank&qid=1566959690&s=gateway&sr=8-3& this might work, please let me know if this is ok
This is the one in the picture. It looks like it's a little deeper than the one you posted, which gives you more space, once you flip it, in the cup for rocks/plants for them to lay on.
Yeah I bought him from Adore Plush Company! Here's the Amazon link: ADORE 20" Flare the Betta Fish Stuffed Animal Plush Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079TJNJJH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Fp.iBbK9FBG2E I named him after my first betta Franz Ferdinand.
He doesn't look too bad, he's a crowntail so his fins will always be spiky.
Adequate sized tank (5 gal min), filtered, heated (78-80), cycled tank will help him heal from ammonia burns and most other issues.
capetsma Crystal Glass Aquatic Plant Pot, Aquarium Aquatic Planter, Red Shrimp Live Plants Fish Tank Glass Holder with Suction Cups for Aquarium Aquascape Decoration… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGM3BHT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NXZ0479NTBP8MTSGVAZQ
Maybe something like this?
They are duckweed plants! I got them here on Amazon. Super cool-looking plants and so easy to grow and take care of. Plus, my betta seems to enjoy swimming under them and letting the roots "tickle" his back!
Fiddlehead Fairy Garden Retro Miniature Flamingo Picks (Set of 2) Assorted #16813 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0E8WT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_toMNCbPMJVNBN
If you know of a good spray on type sealant that's aquarium safe please let me know! I was gonna try plastidip since everything else I've seen is a tube of goo
Try this app: colorblind pal. It'll get values that make reading the results easy. There was a person that showed how to use it with the test kit. I'll see if I can find that post.
It's a cyst or tumor. Marble bettas, blues, dragonscales are very prone to them. Yours is a marble and have blues in him. Their colors and scales mutate over time.
I wouldn't recommend taking him out and using a needle on him. You would need to do a whole process of making sure it's sterilized, and him being anesthetized enough which is difficult in itself. It's too much of a risk and stress.
There's nothing that can cure tumors unfortunately. Since you already tried PG, just give him a good home. If it decides to burst or fall off in the future, you can dose:
IALs are great to use long term.
They look ok from this, but unfortunately test strips are actually incredibly unreliable. They also don't test for ammonia, which is possibly the #1 most important thing you need to test for. As soon as you're able, you'll want to pick up a liquid test kit instead so you know things are ok for sure. This is the cheapest but also most accurate one out there.
Do a water change to lower nitrates to 5-10ppm for safe levels.
Could you get a liquid test kit with ammonia test? Your nitrites should be 0 also. Something is throwing your cycle off which is probably why he's acting the way he is.
Start doing wcs to get it back on track. Get an ammonia test, liquid kit for all parameters if you can like the API Freshwater Master kit.
Try dosing these:
Soak food in garlic juice or Vitachem to entice him to eat. Have you treated for internal parasites?
There have been plenty of studies (here is a somewhat recent example) on schooling behavior and preference in fish. Fish like tetras form large schools for safety, and fish in larger groups tend to be less scared if new stuff or sudden movement than fish in smaller groups. There is also usually less agression and darting in larger groups.
So although they don't need large groups to survive, they display very different and more natural behaviors when given the option to team up. Also, is functioning all you want for you fish? Surely you want them to thrive and maybe even display some cool natural behaviors?
edit: yes I know the article mentions groups of 10+. The 6+ is the minimum (groups of 8-10 or more are advised) and more is always better.
Good job getting him out of there! He would love one of these logs, betta’s like to be near the top of the tank while they sleep for easier access to the top to breathe.
Zoo Med Floating Betta Log https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027ITKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_axDUFb2H7JGW7
He is sooo pretty! That said, the commenters above are right, and he'll really pop and bring lots of wiggles and joy to your family in a larger tank with a heater and a gentle filter.
I would reccommend an adjustable heater so you have more control over the temperature, and remember that you get what you pay for! Ive cheaped out on heaters more times than I care to admit and Ive regretted it every time :(
I would also recommend a gentle filter like a sponge filter since bettas arent great swimmers. Keep in mind that you'll need to get the sponge filter, an air pump, and airline tubing all separately, but the total cost should come to about that of an average hang-on-back filter.
In regards to fish-in cycling, he will be okay. Get a liquid test kit (avoid strips, as they're so inaccurate they're basically useless), then move him in into a bigger tank w/ heater and filter asap and do frequent water changes and testing. It will probably take about a month to establish a healthy bacteria colony, but your fishie will be fine as long as you stay on top of water changes.
Once your cycle is finished, you can reduce water changes to once weekly.
EDIT: Also note that plastic plants are sharp and can hurt a betta's delicate fins! Try to stick to silk or live plants. Bettas love live java fern and anubias plants because of the big, broad leaves for them to rest on. Plus, these plants are super easy to take care of.
If you're not at all interested in live plant care, try BiOrb silk plants. Theyre SUPER duper soft and the green ones have a pretty natural look to them. You can find them here on Amazon.
Good luck taking care of your new buddy! He is such a cute little fishie! Keep us updated on how hes doing! 💖
What stores are near you? Petco and Pet smart pretty regularly have dollar-per-gallon sales, so you could get a 10 gallon tank for $10 when that pops up next. In the meantime, any food-safe plastic storage bin or a Home Depot or Menards bucket will make for a much better temporary cheap setup. Should cost like $3-4.
For heaters, I like this really cheap one. It's adjustable, which is the most important thing. Then you'll need a thermometer as well, which most pet stores should have for around $3 (get a glass or digital one, not the sticker types).
Small bottle of seachem prime for water conditioner. Will help temporarily detoxify ammonia as well while you're cycling. It's also way more concentrated than other water conditioners, so it's cheaper per use. Small bottles are around $5 in my area.
Sponge filters on Amazon are the most affordable you can get for filtration.
The most expensive but also most important thing really, is a water testing kit. The API testing kit is $23 on amazon right now, and I'd highly recommend making it one of the FIRST things you buy because it's just so important for keeping this guy healthy and safe. You'll be using it daily for awhile.
Nitrite is really high, I would do 50% water change now. Check the level again in a couple of hours. DO several partial water changes till you get to the safe level. You need to keep nitrites as close to 0. Ammonia should be maintained at 0.25.
You have to make sure to maintain the safe levels. Ammonia can burn and Nitrite suffocates them. Nitrate is safe at 20ppm.
Invest in API fresh water test kit, its more accurate than strips. You can do more test too compared to strips.
It's probably a tumor which blue, marble bettas are prone to. There isn't a cure, unfortunately. If it does get bigger, it might burst. You can dose these to keep away secondary infections: IALs can be used anytime and long term:
Might I suggest putting a sponge on the outlet? It makes the best bed so long as you keep the water level up. I have two of those tanks and both my bettas use them. I have extras and can mail you one if you like or, they're available on Amazon.
Tips -
Swap out the gravel for sand, it's far easier to clean
Dont waste money on fake decor, it's quite expensive. Go for live plants - anubias, java ferns, java moss, moss balls, and anarcharis are very easy. Amazon swords and most crypts are also fairly easy but they will definitely require root tabs. Plants will improve water quality and will act as a buffer for any 'oops' ammonia spikes.
the nicrew lights on amazon are super cheap and work well for low-light, low-tech setups
r/aquaswap always has great deals on plants. Especially floaters, bettas love them, and they soak up nitrates like nothing else.
Honestly, that tank you're looking at is still super small, and I really wouldn't recommend it for a betta (or any fish) long-term. Minimum tank size is 5 gallons, with larger always being preferable when possible. It's really dumb and unfortunate that they even sell "fish tanks" as small as the one you linked, because they're really not appropriate for fish at all. But the market is pretty much completely unregulated, so here we are.
I'd recommend buying a tank in-store or used, that'll be normally cheaper than the ones available online. If you're in the US, then Pet Co, Pet Smart, and Pet Supplies Plus all sell plain 10 gallon tanks for like $13-14 (5 gallon tanks are around the same price). Or at low at $10 during the dollar-per-gallon sales. 5 gallon tanks are usually around the same $13-14 price range, but don't apply to the sale.
Walmart also sells a 10 gallon aquarium kit for $30, including light and filter. You'll need to baffle the filter though with a sponge or something, the intakes on internal filters can be too strong for bettas sometimes.
If you're set on ordering off Amazon, this 5 gallon is only $30
Aww... :( poor diamond-eye-in-progress betta... yea, sadly nothing you can do about it... it's a condition that some very metallic bettas like your shimmerboi can end up with in which the metallic pigments/scales start growing over the eyes until the betta eventually goes fully blind. Train him to come eat food in a specific location such as with a floating feeding ring and very gentle tapping of the glass where the feeding ring is before food given (a sort of "dinner bell") he will learn to associate the tapping vibration/sound as the dinner bell and come to the feeding ring.
https://www.amazon.com/FLOURITHING-Aquarium-Floating-Suitable-Superfine/dp/B07G4B7P9P/
This one comes with a larger square feeding ring, and a smaller round one, I would go with the smaller round one to keep food in a smaller area so the betta can find the food easier.
You can also use these:
But the best remedy truly is clean, warm, cycled tank. Thanks for taking him in! Bettas deserve the world
Just might have stressed, did you temp match the new water? This is also important as is dechlorinating.
I would turn the lights off and let him calm down.
Have these on hand to use:
Seachem Stressguard (antiseptic, helps reduce stress, heals fins/slime coat)
Indian Almond Leaves. It has antibacterial/fungal benefits, reduces stress, mimics their natural environment. Can be steeped like tea, let cool and dechlorinate before using. You can also do this with Rooibos tea, make sure it is organic and noncaffeinated.
Ok go do a 25% water change. Make sure to follow the instruction on the water conditioner.
Next step. Go back to the store and tell them they’re all idiots. Pick up a liquid water test kit. API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit, White, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BF5NH7G5CR7RMD5G528C
Get a slime coat solution like seachem stressguard too.
Since you had fish die of unknown causes I would disinfect everything in the tank and get new filter media. Bleach/white vinegar are good options for cleaning. Just make sure everything is super well rinsed afterwards.
There's been no fish in there for a while, so the cycle will be dead. Ordinarily you don't ever want to change out your filter media (save for chemical filtration types ex. carbon) as it would crash your cycle.
Make sure you fishless cycle the tank.
You also 100% need a liquid water test kit.
As far as plants go, have sand as a substrate and get some root tabs. Easy plants: java ferns (don't bury these, tie to decor), anubias (don't bury rhizome), java moss, moss balls, anacharis, and amazon swords.
The nicrew lights on amazon are really cheap and work well for low-tech, low-light setups.
I'd say just go for it. Get some low-light, slow-growing plants. You can't go wrong with java moss. Java fern, anubias, anacharis, maybe amazon sword. Invest in a decent light, such as the Finnex Stingray (depends on how long your tank is). And get some liquid nutrients. This is how I started with live plants, and I became obsessed.
I genuinely don’t know what plant it is since i grew them from seeds I got off of Amazon. I used the big leaf seeds in Jim’s tank
Theyre so easy to grow! and you get that beautiful carpet in less than 2 weeks.
Bare minimum for a betta to be healthy and happy:
-5 gallon tank or larger (with a lid, since bettas can and will jump surprisingly high)
-Filter
-Water conditioner
-Water testing kit
-Quality food
-Heater
-Thermometer
-Decor (this can be as cheap or as expensive as you want)
Most of the basic equipment will be cheapest if you buy used. The water testing kit is cheapest on Amazon. You also don't need to buy everything at once. Start with the tank, filter, conditioner, and testing kit, and you can begin working on your fishless cycle while you get the decorations and everything else. Food you can get at the same time as the fish if you want. I've found craft mesh makes a really cheap tank lid.
After everything is set up, make sure you can dedicate just a little time to daily feeding and weekly water testing and water changes.
I'd just like to point out that these things are the minimum. I understand college can be very demanding as far as time, space, and money goes. If this sounds like too much, I highly encourage you to wait on getting a betta until after college. Don't sacrifice the fish's health in order to get one now. /r/Jarrariums can give you some super neat ideas for smaller, cheaper, lower-maintenance setups that don't include fish but will still be very nice and relaxing.
I got 6 of them for $11 on Amazon. They even have little nets over the drainage in the bottom so the substrate doesn't fall through https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078VJJZTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c8.JBbFS8JC5M
The API master test kit contains everything you need, and is on sale on amazon right now for wayyyyyy cheaper than in any stores.
I'd fully recommend the api kit compared to the paper kits that are out there, as the paper kits are notoriously inaccurate.
Hi! Thank you! The plant with the huge leaves is fake, bought it on amazon a few years ago! here I removed the spiky things and some leaves are now missing. I used it to attach my ferns since I can’t bury them : )
They have betta-specific heaters that keep the tank at a consistent 78 degrees, I'd probably invest in one if I were you. I have them in my tanks and they're stupid easy. Also fairly cheap, I think I paid ten or fifteen bucks for mine. Here's the kind I get.
First of all, thank you for taking her in and giving her a better home!! When I was in high school I gave my betta, Jazz, to my best friend because I was moving. I was only gone for one year, but when I came back I saw his tank just sitting, abandoned, next to her driveway. Apparently he died while I was gone because *she forgot he existed and didn't feed him, clean his tank, etc. S*he didn't think to tell me about it, since "it was just a fish." I'm still bitter about that, lol.
Depressing story aside, it looks like you're doing great! It will take time for good bacteria to build up in your tank, so I recommend buying some QuickStart if you can! It just helps get the good bacteria started. Here's the link to some on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/API-Nitrifying-Aquarium-Maintains-Biological/dp/B006YG12F6
Also, it's not needed, but live plants are always a good idea! They help maintain the tank, and fish love to hide in them! My betta loves to sleep in his java fern, and in the branches of his lucky bamboo. If you're new to aquatic plants, just start with easy stuff that doesn't need additional CO2! If you want to be serious about your plants you'll have to get an O2 pump and aquatic plant fertilizer. Unfortunately I didn't do that and my first plants all died... It was a huge waste of money.
Transparent parts are new fin growth.
Rec you get rid of all plastic plants.
And don't use "fix" products. Frequent water changes and doses of these if needed:
None. What he needs is a cycled tank to heal. You can use these to help him:
Don't jump to antibiotics as it creates drug resistance in the long run.
If that’s the intake that I think it is, this should fit nearly perfectly:
Fluval Edge PreFilter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Y1n.FbGK8Y0JZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If it is one way or the other, ABSOLUTELY leave it off otherwise you are going to come back to a tank full of algae and a stressed out fish.
The best option would be to get a timer for the light. (This one is my favorite On Amazon)
If you’re in the US, Petco is having their $1/gallon sale until feb 2 or 3rd! It’s for basic rectangular tanks. Most fish prefer to swim length instead of height, so I’d probably get a ten gallon from the sale (in fact, I just did).
I would recommend a sponge filter! I just got this one XY-2831 Air Pump Sponge Filter for Aquarium, Tank Size 10-gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_coqCAbPNBSCAB Under $5, and you just need a relatively cheap air pump to power it, a couple feet of airline tubing, and a check valve for safety. The check valve prevents water from siphoning out of the tank and into your equipment or outlets if the pump shuts off for any reason. You just cut the tubing a couple inches outside the tank and pop in the valve. It’s got arrows on it to show you which direction to use it.
You’ll also need a lid for the tank, and a bigger heater, I would recommend 100 watts for a 10 gallon. They’re way cheaper on Amazon. And I would highly recommend setting up the new tank completely, then moving your current filter to the new tank along with the new one. Even if you have to rig it up in a silly way to get it to work on the new tank, that way your beneficial bacteria will be in the new tank, and you should be able to avoid starting your cycle over. You can remove it after a couple weeks, I’d wait a month to be sure.
If you absolutely can’t do that, run the sponge filter in your current tank for maybe 2-4 weeks, then transfer it and the fish to the new tank. That’ll give the new filter time to colonize bacteria.
You could also put whatever filter media you have now in the new tank, just lay it near the sponge filter. Cartridge, ceramic, sponge, whatever is in your filter. I feel like the first two options are more effective, but this is based on my cautious self, so someone else may know for sure.
A sponge filter like the one I have is the perfect option! They’re very quiet even at their strongest flow, and they are basically no maintenance. All you’ll need is some airline tubing and an air pump, but you can get both of those for cheap on amazon as well.
I squeeze my filter out in some tank water every month or so, but it’s very easy and quick. I got a valve to slow the flow of mine while my baby betta was still pretty tiny, but for the most part sponge filters are the safest filter for bettas.
I'm not trying to upset you or make you feel bad. I'm trying to explain part of what the issue is, and prevent bad things from happening to your fish as well in the future. Please just read the care guide I linked if you don't believe me.
Believe me when I say I understand money issues, I've had/am having my fair share of them, but these fish are relying on you/your sister/your guardians for all their care. Space, safe heating, and safe filtration are necessities for these pets to live and thrive.
10 gallon tanks are $10 right now at pet co if you're in the continental US, I highly recommend that as a cheap option for an upgrade. A lot of pet stores will also test your water for free if you bring in a sample. Test kits are $18.15 on Amazon right now, I know that's not cheap but it's insanely important to save up for and get one asap. Craigslist, /r/Aquaswap, facebook marketplace, etc are all great places to look for cheap used equipment as well. If you're in the Wisconsin area, pm me and I can give you some of my old supplies.
What I'm trying to tell you is, like /u/pyropixieshesaid said, the heater is not the only issue here. Poor water quality from living in a small unfiltered tank will cause stress and health issues to begin with (even if they don't seem immediately visible) and while the heater definitely seems to have triggered/made things worse, it's not the only problem here.
Fin rot is treated with frequent water changes and doses:
Salt is hard on freshwater fish. He might even be biting his fins. Give him some floating plants on top so he feels safer. Dwarf water Lettuce and Salvinia Minima.
Along with the other pellets mentioned:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
What's your tank size?
Airline tubing, a check valve (I think that’s the name; prevents accidental backflow from the filter into the pump), and ideally a little control valve (has a small knob so you can increase or decrease the flow rate; I find it helpful bc both my 10g and 16g have a pump rated for 40g, so if I ever wanna upgrade to a slightly larger size I can use the same pumps)
For the filter itself, I recommend a dual sponge variety so you can alternate which sponge you clean during your weekly water changes. Helps prevent ammonia spikes/mini cycles, especially if the sponge gets gunked up. Just rinse well in old tank water. You could also consider a dual sponge model that has a reservoir for secondary biological filtration like ceramic balls. This is the one I’m considering buying at the moment.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Chi-Aquarium-Kit-5-Gallon/dp/B003TM1BAE
Buy a 5 gallon tank like this. Get some gravel and some low maintenance plants (cryptocorynes and anubias). Just make the tank look as nice as possible. The nicer it looks, the higher your chances your boss will reimburse you and expense the cost of the tank.
There are cheaper tanks out there. You can make a pretty nice 5 gallon setup for less than $100. Making it in less than $100 seems like it could be reimbursed easily.
Get a water testing kit to monitor ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates, as those are vital for fish health. Safe parameters are 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and 20ppm or less nitrates. I recommend the liquid test kit over test strips, as strips can be very inaccurate and don't always include ammonia.
In the meantime, do a 50% water change for each of them immediately with new water, treated with water conditioner. That should help dilute the waste in the tank.
I recommend getting this test kit. That tank looks like it’s been neglected for a little bit. You really want to make sure the ammonia and nitrites are down at zero. They also like a pH between 6.5 and 8.
I also recommend getting a small gravel vacuum to suck the crud and old food out of the water.
Warm, cycled tank will help.
Get the 50W Aqueon adjustable heater. 5W won't do much.
Spare some cycled media from your other tank so it cycles quicker.
You'll want to put him a filtered, cycled, heated tank.
This is the best cure to fin issues. Along with frequent water changes and doses of:
Whatever you do, don't use the dissolving vacation feeders. Especially in a small tank, they're an absolute nightmare because of the effects on the water.
I've left my bettas alone for a week once (pet sitter neglected to follow fish care instructions, only caring for cats) with absolutely no issues; it was almost as if they'd been regularly fed (but they were more aggressive, biting my finger pretty hard). It actually can be incredibly healthy to give bettas an occasional fast, as it reduces its chances of constipation.
While I don't recommend this, people have reported their bettas being perfectly fine even after missing two weeks of food.
If you want to go on vacations more often, I recommend getting a feeder like this. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YK5W18 It would provide a lot of peace of mind, and this particular design allows you to provide the much smaller amount of food a betta needs vs most electronic feeders which deposit drastically more food
Go over the tank and:
10 gal cycled needs 1x/week water changes. Stick to this.
We need parameters in numbers.
Do frequent water changes and dose:
Get rid of those plastic plants.
API freshwater Master test kit so you can measure you're water parameters. You can find it at your lps or lfs Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_3-g2ybWQYE984
Edit...
I'm still learning myself but you want to watch out for Ammonia and nitrite and nitrate getting Too high. Nitrate is the safest of the 3 but you need to make sure it doesn't get crazy.
Edit... is...isn't...same thing
For a tank that size, you can make do with a simple desk lamp with an adjustable arm and a 6500K colour temp CFL bulb with 1600 lumens, which is suitable as a growlight for plants. I've had good results in my small planted tank with this setup, just keep the light pretty close to the aquarium.
I actually just have my plants in sand so a specialty planted tank substrate isn't necessary, although of course it helps, especially with more finicky plants. If you just want to plant some easy aquatic plants like java fern, anubias, and anacharis, you probably won't need it. I've had good luck with Rotala and Alternanthera reineckii in sand too.
If you're into floaters, water spangles and amazon frogbit are relatively easy to grow, although I learned the hard way that frogbit in particular really does not like surface agitation and getting the tops of their leaves wet.
I also like duckweed, which is dead easy to grow, although most people hate it (so you've been warned) because it gets everywhere and is really hard to get rid of if you decide you don't want it.
NICREW LED Aquarium Light for 12-18 inches Planted Fish Tank, White and Tri-Colored RGB LEDs, 13W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077HKMFWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0y7RCbCDTG7WK
went and found the Amazon link for ya! this setting is the "nighttime" setting and the daytime setting is what it's usually on (on top of the tank not sideways) and it works so well my Java ferns have been growing wonderfully under this!
UP AQUA Sand for Aquatic Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZXBC3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a0wyFb0658XHB
That’s what I ordered- although it isn’t a heavy bag, there’s a lot more in there than you’d expect- plenty for a standard 10gal, I still have over half the bag left and I’ve used it for my 5g tank already. It’s infinitely better than fluval stratum in my opinion. It is compressed soil so it’ll break down eventually, but it looks great and my plants and shrimp love it.
10-20% every other day.
Dose these:
And make sure to:
He should be but go over your tank and:
I never had a betta damage their mouth bumping into the glass. He must have rammed right at it, poor thing.
For a 5 gal, I would stick to 1-2x/week wcs. And for now do daily to every other day of 10-20%, and dose:
Could he have bonked himself somewhere? Bettas are quite hyper when they see us and go crazy or sometimes sneak into small crevices, get stuck then tear themselves up.
I would go over the tank and:
Try doing every other day water changes of 10-20% and dose:
10 gal is enough for 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates. Please upgrade the tank to a 20 gal and move them over or rehome the endlers if you aren't able to upgrade via r/aquaswap. Overstocking causes stress, aggression, poor immune system which makes them prone to illnesses.
75F is too low. Crank the heater to 78-80F.
Do daily to every other day water changes and dose:
Here's the one I use at Walmart. I got mine at PetSmart though. I can say I've been using them for a few months and they are good at self-correcting the temperature. My fish were noticeably happier after I added them too.
My Betta came down with something similar awhile back. He was acting lethargic and also appeared to have an enlarged eye from some sort of fungal or bacterial infection. The best thing that I found to treat him was these (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Jungle-Fungus-Clear-Tank-Buddies-39-G-Fish-Aquatic-Pets/10313047) fungus tablets, which were affordable and completely did the trick to help my boy get back to normal. I also added aquarium salt into his tank to aid with the healing, and in about a week he was back to his usual self. Hope this helps!
I would definitely cycle the tank...it'll save you a lot of work later on. I think it's safe to say that it's absolutely essential for having a successful, healthy aquarium.
As far as heaters go, I recommend the cobalt NeoTherm 25watt heater. It's on the pricier side but it is adjustable and accurate, safe. I use it to keep my 2.6 gallon tank at 78, it is super accurate. Very high ratings. Doesn't get dangerously hot or anything.
Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm Heaters with Plastic LED, 25-Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AGHH8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-MaAub0X0HE8C
None of the ingredients are clinically tested and proven to cure bacterial infections. Honestly, when I use medication, I like to use medication that is proven to be effective. Additionally, there is a high risk of accidentally overdosing, essentially drowning the fish as it can no longer breathe.
>The study revealed that Melafix® had no significant bactericidal or inhibitory effect on any of the pathogens tested. This observation suggests that anecdotal benefits of Melafix® are not due to antibacterial activity.
I'd go for 10 gallons... if you do, in that case...
It's not fancy, or adjustable, and your mileage may vary with the length of time you have it, but most of the ones I've purchased in the past have lasted me for at least 2.5-3 years. I haven't had any break on me, or cook my tank.
As with any heater, be wary of what you buy and always purchase from a reputable source.
Here is a good article about selecting heaters for a smaller tank.
http://hubpages.com/hub/Best-Heaters-for-a-5-Gallon-Freshwater-Aquarium
I have the Aqueon Mini Heater (10-Watt) in my 3 gallon and my fish loves i,t
In OP’s picture it looks like those narrow edges from picture frames. I could be wrong, but it’s dead simple and noncommittal as opposed to say silicone.
Any rough decor in there? Maybe some rocks or driftwood? He could have snagged himself on something. Make sure to sand them down smooth all over.
Start with frequent water changes and doses of:
Hi there, please remove the tag from the amazon link (else someone profits from our users using that link). Easiest is to just post a clean link (remove everything after the articlecode, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116052306-StressGuard-500ml/dp/B001F0KX06/)
They definitely need separate tanks.
When you do separate them, (into at least 5+ gallons each) I wouldn't even set the two tanks next to eachother without blocking the line of sight from one to the other - you can get blackout film on Amazon for fairly cheap.
I've used this stuff with pretty nice results: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07588J5Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_KZ7TX8HGAHZC0J4P5M8P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What are parameters in numbers?
>2 blue dwarf gouramis
Gouramis and bettas do not go together. They come from the same family of territorial and aggressive fish. Please separate the betta to her own tank of 5 gal min. It doesn't matter if you've never seen the gouramis chase her, it's stressful. Some bettas aren't meant to be in with a community.
I would start with a separate tank for her, frequent water changes and doses of:
That works! Just rinse it well under 1 part white vinegar and 4 parts hot water. Rinse until the smell dissipates.
You could also try dosing these:
Paraguard might help. You can do dips, instructions on the bottle.
These too:
Sororities really should be in a 40 gal min, the bigger the tank the better chances but they're fragile and harmful to the girls involved.
Keep that water clean by doing daily to every other day water changes.
Unfortunately it is a tumor which is very common in dragonscale bettas. You can try these to stave off secondary infections.
>nitrate: ~40ppm
This is too high and often cause for raised scales on the head. Do daily to every other day water changes to get it down. Nitrates should be 5-10ppm for safe levels.
Stick to 1x/week water changes for the tank size. If you have nitrates in the tap water, then get floating plants like dwarf water lettuce and salvinia minima to suck up the excess nutrients.
I would also dose:
And grab Paraguard and Kanaplex to have on hand jic.
>10 gallon, 4 salt and pepper cories
Rec you upgrade to a 20 gal and get 2 more cories, they do best in shoals of 6. 10 gal is enough for 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates.
>usually change it every 1-2 weeks
Stick to 1x/week water changes for this tank size.
Just keep doing frequent wcs and dose, along with your SG:
Go over the tank:
I got one of these for my tank. It can't stay in the tank, but it's sturdy and really accurate. The little glass ones aren't great.
His head scales look raised which is an indication of poor water quality.
Rec you keep him in a breeder box so he's near the surface in a 5 gal min tank. Heated, filtered, and cycled. Some broad plants where he can lay on would be good so he can take air when needed.
Try dosing these:
And lights off. At this point, there's not much else to do except to try to lessen his stress level enough for him to calm down and breathe slower.
I’ve found that aquarium stands are overpriced and don’t work. I guess it depends on what you get but I bought one from Petco and it’s terrible. I bought this from Amazon and really like the look of it. I’ve had a 5 gallon on it (no fish) for a few weeks and it seems sturdy. I’ve read on here that people look for tv stands so they can see how much weight they can hold.
it's also important to get a thermostat controller! I've seen this inkbird recommended loads, I can't speak to it personally because one of my roommates had an old one she used for her snake tank that she gifted to me. but, tons of people swear by inkbird! like notherworldentirely said, all products will have bad reviews, and heaters are notorious for having bad reviews because they can cause immense damage if/when they malfunction.
this is the heater I've been using with the thermostat my roommate gave me - it's given me no trouble yet!
i recommended him a 5g tank this one specofically https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Crescent-Aquarium-Efficient-5-Gallon/dp/B00324X5L2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=5+gallon+betta+fish+tank&qid=1619140084&sr=8-3 i hope it's sufficient
As others have said, frequent wcs and these if needed:
Avoid fix products.
Probably some lose scale as well. Do daily to every other day water changes to keep it clean for him to heal.
Go over the tank and:
You can def dose these:
Kinda looks like he scraped it on something.
Then do some frequent water changes and dose:
Do daily to every other day water changes and dose:
Go over the tank and:
Rec upgrading to a 20 gal for all those fish in there.
I assume that's the TopFin 5 gallon kit because I have one myself, it's a good kit except the thermometer. Mine was at least ten degrees off so I bought this one and would recommend.
He could have bonked his head on something. It kind of looks like color change though.
Go over the tank and:
Dose these to help:
Get the API Freshwater Master Kit to test with ($23 Petsmart online and they'll price match). Strips are inaccurate.
Def rehome those tetras asap. They can be nippy in small tanks esp housed with a long finned betta.
Do daily water changes and dose:
Please answer the bot questions completely.
Long finned bettas are prone to fin damage. Go over the tank and:
Do frequent water changes and dose:
>tablespoon of API aquarium salt during my large water changes once a month.
Bettas are freshwater fish and this is unnecessary.
Dose these:
like this? - https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82 do you think i'll have any luck finding something like that in the retail pet stores or should i just get it off of amazon?
You sound just like me and anyone else that is trying to be responsible from the start. Good for you, there is nothing wrong with buying something that isn't optimal if you had no idea otherwise.
As for the heater, 10 watts is small for a 5.5 gallon. I would upgrade to at least a 25w and you can easily go up to 100w, it just depends on your preference and thought process when it comes to heaters. a larger wattage has to work less to keep the water warm but you may see slightly larger fluctuations in temperature. A 25w - 100w adjustable heater will run you ~$15 on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B00061UQ6G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494027759&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+aquarium+heater).
Don't stress. Most Bettas are extremely resilient compared to other tropical fauna.