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Hello fellow 14 year old. I enjoy soldering myself, it can be dangerous but if you take the right steps to protect yourself, it won't be. The main problem is that it can be difficult and time consuming to solder smaller things.
Here's a cheap set with a safer stand than most other sets: https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Temperature-Screwdrivers/dp/B07GJNKQ8W?pd_rd_w=Zyp6S&pf_rd_p=de28a4b0-e3d5-4d62-a7ec-045d2f5964b4&pf_rd_r=DATTAB26JC4SB8N717D6&pd_rd_r=0123d9ab-5708-4a84-9f02-1957289b3266&pd_rd_wg=uMMw1&am...
Ahh ya good point! I was thinking about getting a celling mount for cameras/over head projectors like this one.
This is what I use https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Soldering-Station-Charging-Voltage/dp/B07S4GPM66. I like that it has a soldering iron, heat gun, and adjustable power supply all in one. I've been using it for years for many different projects and it has worked really well.
The easiest way would to replace the bad DVD drive with one that was pulled out of the other two units. That would be the easiest route because the other two both have a MOBO issue, which means you essentially need a new console at that point.
I would recommend pulling the DVD from the unit that was banned first, because that sounds as though it is in the worst condition. However this is completely up to you, just pull a DVD drive that matches the bad one.
The next thing is are all 3 units the same model. (IE: Fat or Slim) If they are all Fat or all slim then you need to make sure the two DVD drives (old and new one) are the same model. There are a couple different variations, but the BENQ and Phillips are the most common.
If they are then you can swap the DVD drive no problem. The one thing you NEED to do if you are going to do this swap is to KEEP THE ORIGINAL DVD DRIVE BOARD for the unit you are fixing. This is because this board and the console are linked together with a unique key, and you can not just slap another drive in their. The easiest way is to just transfer the internals of the new drive to the old DVD Housing + Board. (The system with the bad DVD drive). It sounds complicated, but all the ribbon cables should line up when you are transferring the internals of the DVD drives and it requires just a phillips screwdriver to transfer them, as the laser mechanism and all its motors and such come out in one piece.
Any other questions or clarifications let me know, as i originally did this with my Xbox 360 and got it working. I am more than happy to help!
Reference Links: http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/8157/xbox360dvdmodelidentifiz.jpg
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+360+Optical+Drive+Removal/3358
I've seen the same problem on several different Wiis, and I've never had any success with the various "fixes" (bending, crimping, heat-gunning) listed online.
Your repair options depend on how courageous you're feeling. The cheap/difficult option is to replace the laser assembly inside the optical drive. You can find the lasers online for as little as $6, but it's a fairly challenging install -- definitely not something I'd attempt without some prior repair experience. It's worth noting that while the laser is the most likely culprit, there are a couple of other (less common) points of failure in the optical drive.
Replacing the optical drive entirely is a much easier repair, and not too expensive ($37 on Amazon for a replacement drive). It also removes the uncertainty over which part of the drive has failed, since you're replacing the whole damn thing.
In either case, all you'll need tool-wise is a set of tri-wing screwdrivers ($4 online) and a set of precision screwdrivers ($1 at any dollar store). If you opt to replace the laser, you'll also need to be able to de-solder (either with a wick or solder sucker). iFixIt has a very detailed teardown guide that'll walk you through the disassembly.
Good luck!
I learned with kits like this (including this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-MK119-Roulette/dp/B004NVTWQU
I’d recommend getting a few different ones to assemble.
And this is solder station I have currently, it’s really cheap and actually pretty decent for beginners:
https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-VTSS4NU-Adjustable-Soldering-DegreeF-842/dp/B00FKGMOY4
Tips:
Get a solder station with temp adjustment knob. These usually get hot enough. The single irons that plug into wall almost always suck, stay away from those.
Get some solder wick for absorbing old solder or for redos. Don’t fall for the solder sucker plunger things. They kinda work for certain situations, but solder wick is better.
Keep solder iron tip clean. Leave solder on it while it cools for storage. Clean off solder before use, but always store with solder on it.
Flux helps a lot. I’ve mostly gotten by with flux core solder for hobby stuff. I used to do some aerospace soldering and the flux was required and super helpful (and also the technically correct way if you aren’t lazy).
Get some sort of filter fan so you aren’t breathing fumes and do work in a large open area if possible.
Don't have a specific replacement, but looks to be a standard 4 wire with a JST connector. Look up 4-pin JST cable and compare the connector itself. Probably save you a few bucks too. A lot of "retro" spare parts are typically standard components, but fetch a higher price tag because they're "retro".
Edit: here's an Amazon link to a listing with way more than you need, but a good price. Not necessarily the exact one, but it'll give you an idea.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749PQ57L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_HBMNWSHYHFMN2ZHKPQRA
I have actually ordered a soldering iron set which I believe comes with a multimeter. I'm just waiting for it to arrive. I ordered it about a month ago and I expect to get it another month from now. This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Rarlight-Multimeter/dp/B07H72Q8KT
I actually ordered it from aliexpress but I do think that this is the very same iron set.
You just need a multimeter. Here is a guide on how to try and test it in circuit. You may need to remove the resistor in order to get an accurate test though.
Edit: Also, here's a resistance calculator if you need it.
For anyone stuck on this fix or looking for parts, ifixit website has guides and parts available (the guides are free too!) And got me through a repair just kind this.
I kinda cheated and replaced the whole board instead of spending hours soldering.
To physically replace it is very easy, aside from the other thousand screws to get to it, only two screws hold it in place. This will help you get to the guts.
The problem you might run into is that I've never seen a trustworthy site that sells a new connector for the N64. I've done a little googling, and I still can't find anything I'd trust with my Credit Card, but you might have better luck.
I started learning about a year ago. I see a lot of recommendations for different irons, but I would also recommend something like this to practice on: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SK381Q1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H0J5RMYF9Z4W5MB16RWF
I used some wire and just practiced attaching it to different points with the through hole and surface mount pads on that board. It will let you get a feel for things before you work on anything you actually care about.
I'll give my experience. I had some soldering practice as a little kid watching my dad fix stuff and it wasn't until I was in my 30s that I started to pick up older consoles and wanted to learn to fix them. I went the super cheap way and bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJNKQ8W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do I regret making this purchase? Not really. I knew what I was getting into. Compared to the soldering iron my dad had, this was more advanced sadly. The temperature control is small and I can swear that it's off by about 25 degrees C, but it's worked for me.
If you feel like you want to move on up to a more fancy one you'll be getting more temperature control, more precise hot tips, and consistent temperature. For some, that's a major selling feature, but for me as an amateur, I don't need those - yet.
No worries. By the way, regardless of the iron you get you should definitely get some good flux like this: (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_16ZXX2D2QDHRKNRT8FGB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
The flux that comes as a paste is ok, but good flux does wonders. Some other recommendations are wick, good tweezers + flush cutters + pliers (hakko makes good stuff) and a good vice. If you really want to get into it you might even want to invest in a usb microscope, but I wouldn't invest too much if you're just starting. A good iron with a good tip and good flux will do wonders.
Rinbers® OEM Replacement Bottom Lower LCD Screen Display for Nintendo 3DS N3DS XL LL 2012-2014 with Y Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0747PL79T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Z5JDM12ZP2W4Q78J2NHD
3ds XL
Something like this would work, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PM7BMG9 I bought a switch for like 130 that had a similar problem. As is it'll work fine but if you just want it to look better cosmetically you can replace both the back and the front it's not too terribly difficult.
It was actually funny because someone posted a switch for like 130 bucks locally that they said it was overheating and shutting down and the joycons were disconnecting etc etc etc, I think they actually snapped off those grills because they were trying to cool the switch they even said they put a fan over it while it was docked... When I got it oh man that switch was dirty, The joycon rails head food stuck in them and were slightly corroded so I had to replace those joycon connection boards and the rails on the switch. And the thing works solid from that point forward, I think they were trying to attribute the joycon disconnections to like heat when there was no heat issue with the switch It was just that they were dirty and had food stuck in those things which corroded the joycon connections.
You might want to try the pc-screw sized version of Vampliers. They've worked on screws the other methods haven't and it's a lot safer than dremeling stuff. You basically just grip the outside and rotate the screw out like you would a screwdriver
Got this one a while back. Been happy with it. Had to make some modifications to it out of the box to get the power input fixed. Look for some YouTube videos on it and how to check / fix it if you decide to get one.
YIHUA 948-II 4 in 1 Hot Air... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RNL7YT9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
MG Chemicals - 835-100ML Liquid... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNR01Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is what I replaced it with. Life has been so much easier ever since and I can do any job I need to.
Defiantly not a beginner type job. I was surprised to see the price actually went down some since I purchased the screen and digitizer, amazon has it now for $44 for both:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088QWJR63/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the ones I bought. Seemed to work fine, and the price is right imo.
Teenitor Solder Sucker Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool 3pcs/Pack https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0739LXQ6N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_3q-8FbXVGDAG2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got a pair of these for stripping thin cables for console modding.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00RGQ3L7A
Like you I didn't want to spend a huge amount on something that may not work, but these were only £6 and they've served me well the last few months.
Because the wire stripper is adjustable you can go down to very thin wires.
I generally use this one with my customers.
But the one you linked will work just fine.
These are really good for that
Edit: if you add a little fresh solder and make a big clump then sometimes the pump can yank more easily. Remember to clean the pump after a few pulls, it fills up surprisingly quick.
Its primary purpose is to remove SMD components, but works great on through hole components as well.
Can use soldering iron or hot air. There are similar products for a little less, but this is the one I purchased and used. Comes in handy when replacing HDMI ports on PS4's as well. click me
Check a few youtube videos to see how it works.
That sort of helped. I atleast gave me the name of what I was needing and found it. USB-c male breakout board
Not really. I repair PS4's for a living and just use SeaGate Barracuda 1tb's.
Thank you! Something like this? Is it the same one for the digital version as for the regular one? From which sites can you buy reliable parts?
https://www.amazon.com/AUTOKAY-Internal-Supply-N15-120P1A-Microsoft/dp/B0772PP3M6
I mean you could try a disc repair kit, something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hama-DVD-Repair-Cleaning-Kit/dp/B0013IPAJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3V1OA1S515EXT&keywords=disc+repair+kit&qid=1670880749&sprefix=disc+repair+kit%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-3 but depends how deep its scratched
I don't even have to know the conversion rate to know if they cost that little, they're not going to deliver. I went with the Amscope and it's been great! I have all the lateral movement I need, as well as the ability to raise it up and lower it. Which I frequently make use of. Every time I'm doing an HDMI port, board is hanging off the edge and I have my hot air pointing up, right at the scope if the board weren't in the way. Perfectly safe.
I'd get a set of screw extractors. alternative you may get away with carefully drilling the head off and removing the rest with pliers.
Another option would be to see if a torx bit might grip it enough
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Not sure where you are but for cars I use a set like this to remove screws with knackered heads:
​
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One end drills out a appropriate size hole in the head and the other end is a revers thread bit so as you turn it counter clockwise it digs into the hole created by the other end.
If I was repairing it the 1st thing I'd check is how many amps it's drawing. the sell usbc amp readers. if it's low it's probably a bad M92T36
something like this.
To add on to my previous reply, what about these?
https://www.amazon.com/whiteeeen-Extension-Genesis-Controlle-Controller/dp/B09YNZVTQG/
It's a 9 pin female D-sub connector, if that helps you locate one. Amazon lists a bunch, however none of them look exactly the same, and they all have screw mounts on the connector. I know this doesn't answer your question, but Retro-bit makes an official 6-button controller for fairly cheap, which IMO are identical to the original: https://www.amazon.com/Retro-Bit-Official-Genesis-Controller-6-Button/dp/B07P255V8J/ In a pinch, I suppose you could buy one of those new controllers and salvage the cord to fix yours. Honestly, you will probably spend the same amount on just a bare cord, if you can find one.
Insert an audio disc and check if it works. I guess you need buy a new part:
https://www.amazon.com/Laser-Optical-Replacement-Playstation-KSM-440ADM/dp/B07V42W79Z
Before you buy, check your ps1's compatibility.
if i buy as cheep smd work station will that do the job just wonder i found one on amazon for 55$ its on sale
You can get a pack of joysticks for cheap (you should have them anyway for joystick drift later on down the road). It just takes the right screwdriver (make sure you don't skimp on this because a stripped screw is a PITA) and some patience to remove swap out joysticks. I've used these:
https://www.amazon.com/Joycon-Joystick-Replacement-Controller-Thumbstick/dp/B08BL4LY84/
to fix my drift issues 'cause I didn't want to wait to send them through Nintendo for free replacements.
I got me one of these early on. It allows me to plug the HDs into my PC without even having to remove it from the caddy! At which point I run Crystal Disk Info. I take note of its health and if it's still useable, I also noted it hours of usage. I've never seen it NOT know that a HD is bad. Though I have had a couple HDs that were bad in a way that CDI couldn't even finish launching until I unplugged it. And I had a couple that seemed to perform okay, but the HD was indeed bad, which meant an irate customer in the making, so I'd just proactively replace them.
Crazy how much faster PS4s kill hard drives than PCs for example.
Hey, thanks. Done some googling, and this is definitelly looking similar
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Original-Self-Recovery-MF-NSMF020-2-Resettable/dp/B08HWLCCJW
I was thinking that were letter M the whole time 😆
Would this be the thing to buy? https://www.amazon.com/Joysticks-Joystick-Replacement-Nintendo-Include/dp/B07PYPC8BY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1X8OM1ESJQ6QM&keywords=switch+joycon+repair+kit&qid=1668619989&sprefix=switch+joycon+re%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-4 I have no experience in repairs for tech
The iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit is great. You can also just get the Mako kit but the extra spudgers and prying tools and tweezers are super handy.
I recommend getting some of these to go with it though. The bit holder part of the driver they include is a bit too fat to reach into some deeper screw holes (like the GameCube has for instance).
Also try to remember to use the JIS bits instead of the Philips head bits for stuff made in Asia (basically everything) as they are less likely to strip the heads.
I got this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BLQ24IW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's reviews sounded promising and most of the complaints sounded like user error. Like, I haven't gone over 1/2 speed on anything so far. Even half speed is enough to bridge up to an inch, so I see people having major issues trying to go too fast.
I've used it to fill in holes on broken laptop cases and only go at like 1/3 to bridge most things and then 1/5 for the actual work.
That is totally fixable, but using solder and some heat shrink tubing would be better than twisting and using electrical tape. Main issue is you are not left with much wire. You might have to cut into the head a bit to get enough of that white wire to work with. You could cut it off completely and put a new head on it using this or this. Just have to make sure you connect the pins to the right wires.
You might be able to get a replacement off of AliExpress. Search for "logitech {model number} peddle cable".
This is what I've been using. I've heard lots of talk that the stuff you can get from aliexpress is fine and way cheaper. Tacky no-clean is what I'm mostly looking for. The only downside to what I'm using is that sometimes, like when I'm heating up the anchors for an HDMI port so they'll accept my leaded solder, my iron is on the spot long enough it starts to cook the flux. Which means I usually have some brown residue that IPA+tootbrush isn't good enough for. Have to get out the ice pick and start scraping it up by hand.
I started with a no clean pen based flux, but I have switched to a paste and I like it better. It doesn't evaporate as quickly and stays where I put it better. It is a no clean flux but it does leave a sticky residue so I clean it up afterwards.
For future searchers, I found the solution here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09R438D88?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 I cut the extra long legs to fit the length I needed. Works perfectly now!
(If the link goes bad, it's called Chanzon Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 6x6 x 6mm Micro Momentary Tact Switch 2 pin. It's the one with long 14.5mm legs)
Is that the 2.1 firmware or 2.2 firmware? There is a bug in the 2.1, you will need to use the eeprom flash utility. Kinda pricey though. You can find them HERE.
Also, don't forget to put thermal paste on the tips of the RAM slots. Its for thermal protection.
This one is a bit cheaper, this is what I use and have had 0 issues nothing but good things on this one and has a 3yr warranty from US manufacturer.
Yeah I understand. Something more in the range of 200 - 300$ would most likely do it though. No need to pay thousands of dollar if you don't want to : Maybe this one : https://www.amazon.com/lead-free-soldering-Intelligent-ST862D-Soldering/dp/B09HRN6J29
Do you think I could get a cable like this and cut off the RP-SMA end (the bigger one). I can't seem to find "open end" cables...
I can seem to find "open end" cables with that connector. Could I just take something like this and cut of the other end? https://www.amazon.com/Bingfu-Bulkhead-AX200NGW-Interface-Wireless/dp/B0894CWLZN/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?crid=3OAQ2F60Y2EZT&keywords=Ipex+mhf4&qid=1666369904&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjM5IiwicXNhIjoiNC4wMSIsInFzcCI6IjMuNzcifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=ipex+m...
You can just buy replacement potentiometers. Sometimes it is due to the metal circular ring inside the potentiometer being bent and not making proper contact with the conductive ring inside. So you can even just replace that metal ring by prying the potentiometer open, and dropping in a replacement.
Look at the third photo in this Amazon listing to get an idea of how to swap out that metal ring.
Get a better iron if you don’t have one with temperature control and good tips. Get some good flux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00425FUW2. Good solder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WTX9WY. And keep practicing.
For a proper repair, you should replace the the part.
However - I have used plastic weld to repair a stick before and its still fine
this will be a lot cheaper and a lot faster -- just make sure you don't get any overspill and weld the whole assembly together.
your call.
Wire is wire as long as it is of a similar gauge. That said why would you use 20+ year old wire that is more likely to fail in a repair? You can get spools of wire from plenty of place (Amazon for instance) for very little money. I use this and this in a lot of my projects. You can also get spools of ribbon wires (wires that have been bonded together). You can buy like a 12 wire ribbon and divide it up as needed.
They're moulded together most of the time. Nearly impossible to separate without tearing the sleeve to bits.
If you don't care for keeping the old connector, a replacement jack would probably work. Just mind the polarity.
First step, clean your cartridge and clean the connector inside the SNES. I don't have time to write you a guide, but I grabbed this guide from here, and it covers all the bases I'd cover. Good luck!
>First, before you go knocking your console, have you cleaned your cartridges? Have you also checked carefully to ensure the contacts of the cartridge aren't corroded? If you haven't cleaned your cartridges, grab some Q-tips and denatured alcohol. Dip one end of the Q-tip in the denatured alcohol and then rub the wet side on the contacts of the cartridges, horizontally and vertically on both sides. Then use the dry end to pick up the extra liquid. Repeat until the Q-tip comes out white. Ensure the cartridge dries off and check to make sure no fuzz from the Q-tip is stuck to the contacts. Then you may plug it in and play.
>I highly recommend doing this to every cartridge before using it; even if you've cleaned it before! It's very easy to clean cartridges, cleaning systems is not quite so easy.
>If your cartridges are clean and undamaged, there's, unfortunately, no good place to go to get replacement pin connectors. As "Buy another Super Nintendo" is a very unsatisfying option, I recommend dipping a soft ("soft" meaning used or low quality, so the bristles bend without much resistance), clean toothbrush into some denatured alcohol and gently brushing your console's teeth. Afterwards, use a cloth to dab up any extra alcohol and then allow the pins to dry.
>I did this to my Sega Genesis and it works much better now. Either way, if you kill the console, it wasn't working in the first place, so you're no worse off.
>I've never tried it with a hard bristle brush though. It can also be said, rubbing alcohol will work, but denatured alcohol works a bit better. If you've only got rubbing alcohol on hand, use that, but go for denatured otherwise.
I like the iFixIt Tech Pro Toolkit though I suggest getting some of these to go with it as the driver is a bit short and fat for some things (Gamecube for instance).
This one by ifixit should have you covered:
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Precision-Screwdriver-Repairing-Smartphone-Console/dp/B08NWKMT8V
I use it for all my console repair and modding efforts.
These cheap Chinese ones are not too bad... so long as you expect it to not be great and don't leave it on unattended (I don't trust the cheap fail safes).
Even on sale. This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR2IWBN
That single button sucks, get one of the station ones that are a little bit more, its worth it to have somewhere to set your hot iron. That guy that suggested this one strikes a hard bargain. I'd grab the one he suggested.
For just a little more I got this with a hot air station and it works great.
Its your call. The name, is usually called a GAME BIT, is still the same regardless of if its a BIT or a full screwdriver.
The ones I sent you, would fit in any screwdriver which allowed for interchangeable bits
These ones, are stand alone screwdrivers.
Either would work
No they used to have a game port on them as it doubled as the MIDI port (with an adapter).
May struggle finding a sound card with one these days that'll go in a modern system... There do exist things like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sintech-PCI-Express-Riser-Extender/dp/B00KZHDSLQ but you'll probably have better luck with a gameport to usb adapter
Use this guy’s adapter or have your very own from Ama$on
I highly recommend this as a cheap option:
I bought one for work just to keep in my pocket as it’s so small, but it did everything I wanted and it was stolen rather than replaced.
If this nail glue is based on cyanoacrylate (it often is), there is a solution but I don't know how it is called in your country:
https://www.amazon.fr/Loctite-Detach-Glue-5-g/dp/B008F8IA74
I saved a Game Boy screen with this stuff, you gotta be patient , pour it on the dry glue, wait a little, wipe, and do it again until there's nothing left.
I've got a Weller WE 1010. The tip is the default one which I think is this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Weller-4ETD-1-Soldering-Chisel-Thickness/dp/B00M1S22QE
It's actually kind of a cute video!
Get some 3 mil zipper locking bags and throw the console in there with a bunch of silica packets. It dehydrates them to death, whereas alcohol will cause them to ooze out, causing more damage. Leave it sealed for 10 days and then you can process it.
That looks like a 1000/1100. For those, I get my ports here. Gone through 12 and the one time I had a problem, it definitely wasn't the port's fault.
The port is just a passthrough. You can use a breakout board to test each pin for continuity from front to back. If they all check out, it's not the port itself. Also take into account the possibility of residual flux inside the port and/or on the cable you've plugged into them.
I've used this on various RF shielding, comes in various colours too. Sand down the worst of the rust and then spray straight on, take your time and you will get a nice result.
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I have two that I use, depending on your budget.
Budget friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YB2TNM3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
After you remove the port, tin the pads place new port. Hit one or two pins with your iron to hold in place, then press down with tweezers and hit with hot air. Port should drop in place and check each pin to make sure they aren’t loose.
Read my other comment first.
You can find them on Amazon. You're not going to remove those scratches easily. Google for "removing scratches from plastic," read through multiple, and then decide on your approach.
https://www.amazon.com/Front-Rubber-Screen-Screws-Replacement/dp/B08GC5H7Y2?th=1
Get this set, I use it at work and it covers almost everything except small triwing
I would for sure start with a recap and see if that solves the issue, those are 100% original caps except I think they replaced the big one
also those chips look like they have old flux on them, while this could be harmless it just shows more overall lack of care when installing this mod
removing the mod board wouldn't be necessary, if anything you could get some new dip sockets (https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2-54mm-15-2mm-Soldering-Adaptor/dp/B07H3TJ1D7/) and read the instructions and move the mod to another PCB. the 2 40 pin chips with the flex cables coming out of them should be socket but be extremely careful if you decide to remove them as they are covered in tiny components
Lop the end off, strip the wire back and solder/install one of these. Instructions are included in the additional images, though definitely use solder, not "weld" (badly translated, lol)
Buy "for parts or repair only" / "as-is" for cheap, and don't fret over external condition - those are easily replaced later with all sorts of neat aftermarket parts (or go with the original look, even!) I started with thrift store 80s/90s alarm clock radios, then my electric guitars, and kinda took off from there.
Get a soldering setup with variable heat - I tried using one that just plugged straight into the wall socket and proper-fucked two Game Gears before spending a little more on this. I have since used it to fix 3 NESs, a Gamecube, an N64, and mod the heck out of a Gameboy Advance.
Use proper ventilation. Flux fumes (and old electrolyte) will wreck your shit. If you have pets, it will wreck their shit too.
Go slow. Rushing gets you into trouble.
Use lots of good flux. This one held me back for the longest time before a kind soul took pity on me and gave me their half-empty bottle of this. It was like the solder knew exactly where to go and what to do, and it cleans up super easy with isopropyl alcohol.
YouTube is your friend. Tutorials abound, and slowing the Play Speed way down is an absolute godsend.
More as I think of them
Get yourself some good ROL0 or ROL1 paste flux. Solder wire usually has a flux core built in but you want the ability to add more. Flux protects the solder from oxidizing--which is what causes that dull lumpy appearance and makes it smear and spatter all over the place.
AMTECH is the preferred brand by most people but it's not cheap and thanks to a trademark dispute there are many companies using the brand of which only two have a reasonable claim to it. This amazon listing is a legit one for Amtech Manufacturing/Amtechdirect, one of the two companies that makes good stuff. The other one is Inventec which is unfortunately not easy to buy from--the best resellers in the US are Rossmann and NorthridgeFix.
Outside of AMTECH, I like MG Chemicals 8341 paste flux, but it likes to clump up and clog in syringes, so I prefer buying tubs of it and using a wooden manicure stick ("Orange Stick") to apply.
I've also heard good things about BEST brand flux, and some people recommend ChipQuik. I'm sure Kester et al make good stuff too.
I bought a PS2 and someone had done the exact same thing. Repairing isnt worth the time, its flimsy and hard to do. I bought a ribbon cable on amazon for 7 bucks here
What I've been using. Most modern electronics are constructed with unleaded solder. Which makes the melting point much higher. So if you go to remove an old part, such as an HDMI port, add leaded solder first. Will lower the overall melting point and make the job go quicker, and therefore safer for surrounding components.
I have this ultrasonic cleaner that I use for resin 3d prints. I do fill it with 91% isopropyl alcohol and wasn't aware that I shouldn't do that. That said I've never used it for games so I can't say for sure. One of those 1Up Card cleaning kits is probably sufficient.
You would want a SMD hot air rework station that could give you proper control of the temperature, along with the correct flux and solder paste.
A kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Welding-Practice-Soldering-Training/dp/B00VWB8F8K
would give you some idea of the level of effort involved. The issue I see with the chip on the switch is that there are other components (capacitors etc) in the way of trying it with a soldering iron. It's also not easy to remove such chips using a soldering iron unless you're using a low melting point solder like chip-quik that's designed for the task. At a minimum, without using hot air I would want to depopulate that area so that no damage is done with the soldering iron and then use chip-quik to remove the existing chip. Then flux and a desoldering braid to clean up the area before putting in a new chip and repopulating the removed capacitors etc.
It's well made and from a reputable company, however if it were me I would go for one of the cheap Chinese T12 soldering stations.
https://www.amazon.com/KSGER-Temperature-Controller-Electronic-Equipments/dp/B07PYFSCJ9/
The build quality isn't going to be as good, but the temperature control will be better due to how the T12 tips work compared with more traditional irons. I've been using one of the KSGER ones for years without any issues and swap out tips often depending on the job.
if that doesnt work you can get a composite to hdmi converter and it fixes the issue. my sony bravia struggles with 240p and that fixed the issue for me.
if you can find good component cables ( not the cheap ones on amazon they cause color bleeding issues ) or a ps2 to hdmi adaptor this one are good options
Most people recommend leaded solder. Here is what I use. Think this is the kind that Helder Silva (might have been someone else like Tito from MachoNacho or someone else, but someone like him who does a lot of modding/repairing) recommends.
I am not an expect in multimeters. I got this one based off somebody's suggestion. I am a firm believer that you get what you pay for though. That one was recommended as a good dependable basic multimeter to me by an electrical engineer I think.
*most* fasteners for consoles and periphs tend to be M2 to M3 in diameter, definitely some exceptions for sure though. Diameter and length are definitely the most important, thread pitch might be a problem but generally I haven't found this to be the case unless you need something super fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089QX453K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
kits like the above may cover your bases, however do a quick search in your town or nearby for a fastenal as they may have what you need exactly without having to order a bunch of shit you don't (and won't) need.
If you dont have a set already, i highly suggest adding a decent digital caliper to the toolbox. They're relatively inexpensive and immensely useful.
I have the Yihua 939D+ and I am extremely happy with it. I have not checked or calibrated the thermostat on it for accuracy (someday I will get around to it) but it is close enough.
Also, get a soldering fume extractor. Even if you aren't too worried about fumes, it's worth it, because you will absolutely notice irritation in your lungs from the flux from even a couple days of hardcore soldering action. They aren't expensive. I even rigged one up from a box fan and the highest density HVAC filter I could find (and this probably cost me even more than a purpose-built extractor).
Currently deciding on which one i want to order thinking about this one. Thanks!
Thanks man will do! I already ordered my soldering iron, but i'm still undecided about Lead Free solder or not, i see a lot of debate about it. I have pets ( 4 cats ) and i'm not sure if by using Lead solder causes any harm to em. I'm doing a lot of research on this and so far i haven't gotten a straight answer, it's either ''yes it does you should use lead free solder'' or ''No it's fine''.
Regarding the multimeter would THIS be enough for a beginner?
just real quick question. Are you changing them out due to stick drift or funky operation? Try a lubricated contact spray first; that should solve your troubles (unless these are very abused).
If you decide to change them out. no special solder needed (Leaded or Lead-free). Just make sure to use enough on the anchors to maintain the electrical connection. And, use flux. There's Rosin core solder... that should work for you fine.
Are you in the states?
you can use this solder from Harbor Freight, it's cheap, and will get the job done. Link
Or Amazon Link
Dirt wouldn't do this, dirt just prevents pins from making contact, so the whole picture would be cutting in and out. This is 100% an electronic issue.
I would definitely recommend learning to solder, it's pretty fun in my opinion and it can be very useful. An excellent place to start would be watching instructional videos on youtube, and getting a practice board like this. I actually first learned to solder on that exact same kit 10 years ago. You'll need a soldering iron, this one is what I'd recommend, it's a bit pricey but it will actually last unlike the $20 ones you might find elsewhere, you'll need solder (I'd recommend lead solder, it is much easier to work with than lead-free), flux (I recommend a felt-tip flux pen) and solder wick for removing solder.