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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/cornsnakes:
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Immediately: CHE for heat ($10), thermostat to control heat ($20), digital thermometer/hydrometer ($10).
Soon: larger water dish, more hides, fresh substrate.
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Use a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) for heat. Found cheaper on amazon than at a pet store. Doesn't emit light, probably the best source of heat and provides a better ambient temp than a UTH can. UTH's seem to only work well if the room your snake in is already at like 75 degrees.
All heat sources should be tied to a thermostat -- this regulates the heat so you don't fry/overheat your snake. Try this for $18.
Get a digital thermometer + hydrometer; digital are more accurate and you want to stay away from anything with an adhesive (most analogs have this). Try this for $10.
Get a water dish big enough for that snake to soak in. Search the kitchen section of a store -- possibly cheaper than a $20 dog bowl.
Cardboard hides are fine; they do the job. Give snake another on the other end of the cage. Toss them if they become soiled or mold. Poptart boxes do the trick at my house.
If you want to replace that substrate, aspen works fine. If you don't have the cash for that, paper towels also work.
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Leave it alone, other than to add water, for a week and then handle it for 15 minutes on day 8 and add 15 minutes per day until you hit 2 hours. More importantly, feed and then don't handle it for 48 hours after you've fed.
I would highly recommend this book:
https://www.amazon.com/Corn-Snakes-Captivity-Professional-Breeders/dp/0976733412
Everything you need to know is covered in his book. Best of luck!
My daughter is 10 and getting a cornsnake soon. We ordered a small animal playpen for her to sit in while she handles it, to help prevent it from escaping.
She has found a lot of helpful information on the YouTube channel Snake Discovery. I don't think they have anything corn specific, but a lot of information about snakes.
Heat mats should always be used with a digital thermostat, with the probe right next to the mat (both under the enclosure). That way you will never get a runaway overheat situation.
Some people get a pretty small wattage mat so it just never gets very hot. But it's safer and better for the snake if all heat sources are (each) regulated by their own thermostat.
Here is my favorite:
Under 20 bucks and easy to set up.
Yes. If you don't want to do it yourself you can find timers like these on Amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CX5KLXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_TH52QJSWZFK02JMC3B1K You can set a 12 hour cycle, sun rise to sun set, or whatever you need.
so most thermometers are unreliable when measuring a surface. We still use small thermometers all the time for quick reads, but to get the most accurate reads for surfaces you want to use an infrared thermometer. something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Temperature-26%C2%B0F-1022%C2%B0F-32%C2%B0C%EF%BD%9E550%C2%B0C-Refrigerator/dp/B073YMQCVG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 this used to be like half the price before the pandemic.
Thank you! It's technically an exo-terra, but the dimensions are correct. I love Carolinas, but they were a bit more expensive and had the same features. I got the the hammock along with a climbing vine on Amazon. I eventually want to add a background surround as well, so it's still an ongoing project.
LED tape is a great, inexpensive way to light enclosures. I use them in most of my tanks. You can even get them in the spectrum for plant growth if you have bioactive enclosures (most of mine are). They usually come with dimmers too to adjust the brightness.
UVB is pricy. If you can afford it go for it, lots of studies suggest there are some benefits to it. but if you've got limited funds I think investing in better, more enriching enclosure is better for your snake, IMO.
UVB is non-negotiable for some reptiles, but for corn snakes I look at it like kale. Kale is unquestionably good for you and you will get health benefits from eating it regularly, but you can also easily live a long, healthy life without ever touching it.
You'll definitely need a thermostat for the heat mat with the thermometer part touching the bottom I bought this bundle, but any thermostat of this style should work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WC83SQZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_EAEK99MHBMVAZ7FEBQHK
You'll also want a hide for each side that has one smaller opening. I use small opaque plastic food containers because they are rlly cheap, but your local reptile store will have ones of this style that are hardier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0928VYPY1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QAN2KXDE6C8QMJXRJY9Z
That fake plant you have phtoshopped on the wall would be perfect to crowd the ground of the enclosure as well, but fake plants are much cheaper in the hobby business. Just look up a video on YouTube on how to sanitize them correctly.
To make the little guy feel secure you could also tape a couple pieces of black paper to the back and sides of the enclosure, but that isn't a big deal.
Everything else looks good from what I can tell
you want to buy one that has the is most precise in accuracy. when you get to larger mice, and when your snake gets larger that half a gram matters less and less.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Digital-Multifunction-Removable-Temperature/dp/B00UIVIXVO best i could find for the price and this is what I use. it won't do half a gram but you can tell if the scale is rounding up or down when it comes to the half grams when you wait very small things
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI thermostats can be cheap. this is my favorite cheap one. no reason not to order one. get it within 4 days.
I don't keep too much stuff in my enclosure like i used to when I started. I just keep 2 hides. 1 waterbowl a couple of fist sized rocks, a pipe or paper towel roll core, and a stick to climb on if I have the vertical space. flipping a hide is not much of a problem, and it does not stress a snake much. having to shake a snake out of a pipe is a bit tricky, but not as stressful as digging them out of the bedding.
the best trick is to flip the hide and pick up the snake before it knows what is going on. till your and your snake get used to handling try sitting on the floor or handling over a table so if you drop your snake it does not drop as far.
Glad to help! Lychee is about 3 years old, maybe around 40" long. She was also previously in a 50 gal, so this is a huge improvement :)
The background was really pricey, but I loved how it looked too and thought it'd add much-needed enrichment because she is certainly a climber. It's from Universal Rocks, you can get it from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GZ1XLE/). I trimmed the sides a wee bit and siliconed it to the back, covering the top and leaving around 4" on the bottom to be covered in substrate. The ledge on the bottom creates a big gap though, it's a challenge to fill.
Hot side should be high 80's. Cold side works fine at low to mid 70's.
All heat sources need to be on a thermostat or you will constantly fight it to keep it from getting too hot or not hot enough. Here is my favorite:
A 50 gallon enclosure is fine for even a young noodle, provide there is lots of clutter and plants (fake is just fine) and at least 2 hides. Little snakes like little hides.
Thermostat??
If there is no thermostat, the heat lamp will want to get too hot if the house is warm, and too cold if the house is cold. A thermostat is safer and far easier for the keeper. It makes it a "set it and forget it" deal. This is my favorite since it's easy, inexpensive and very effective:
You can also get a digital thermometer gun thingy its a point and shoot. I think it's a must for any reptile keeper. My corn i had for 22 years never needed a heat source at night. Temps drop into the low 70s even high 60s at times in the corn snake natural environment. If you are worried about night time heat look into a heat mat to place under the tank. It also requires a thermostat to not harm your animal. Night lights are the same as normal lights to a snake. If you use one a snake just thinks its day time all the time. I would not use one personally.
I am using 10 of these. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI?pd_rd_w=2rtQe&pf_rd_p=cb335323-1c34-41e9-9be4-1577c64bd1ea&pf_rd_r=R0CRG7WZ111GVJSZMP92&pd_rd_r=dbd3b81f-4191-4a5d-a493-63f1932dabfc&pd_rd... they are the cheapest ones on amazon but they works
I use cheap heat matts of amazon i forget which brand but they are a little smaller than 1/3 of the tank. The thermostats i use are Inkbird Thermostat ITC608T Dual... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVD3CL6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Edit: you would have to buy two but they can run four heat sources. You can also mount them on the sides of the enclosure.
What about something more like this one? No holes and no suction cups at least. :)
I bought this playpen for my corn. It zippers up so they can't escape, it's big enough that I can fill it with a ton of random stuff for her to explore, and it folds up (though it took some effort to figure out how) for easy storage.
How is he being fed? If he's used to having food just presented to him with no effort, it might be useful to start hiding it somewhere in the playpen or enclosure for him to discover. Maybe in slightly more obvious spots at first to get him used to the idea that he can randomly find mice if he goes looking.
On that note, I've heard varying meal times can help with snake activity. If the snake gets fed every 14 days exactly they might feel like it's pointless to go "hunting" earlier than that. Varying meal frequency can encourage them to hunt more because they never know if they're getting fed that day or not.
Get additional locks. I have a 20 gallon long with a sliding screen lid. I added these to the lid in addition to the pins that came with the enclosure, and it's been escape proof for my guy.
Zilla Reptile Terrarium Covers... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HLBO4LC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
One more thing you may consider doing is getting this stuff and smooshing the butt of the mouse into a bit of it before serving. The pinks she’s been eating had negligible calcium because their skeletons are mostly cartilage at that age. I think your corn is a good candidate for calcium supplementation.
https://www.amazon.com/Miner-All-Calcium-Mineral-supplement-Indoor/dp/B004JP3XJ2
Oh yeah, it's just this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GLFG9DX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details :)
the heating pad isn't the question here, it's "what thermostat should I get?"
There are a couple on Amazon that are pretty good and are well known in the hobby. the BN-Link is the one I have and use still for over 2 years and has done well.
I'm so sorry for your loss. I agree with some other comments that this is the best caresheet to follow. Snake Discovery and Clint's Reptiles are also great YouTube channels for care info. For right now, I'd reccomend buying a kitchen scale so you can figure out how much he weighs, so then you'll know what size feeder to give him. There's plenty of misinformation out there, but do not feed him live mice. You can find frozen/thawed at your local petstore or online. I know snake discovery has videos about feeding and proper thawing. You'll need to give him at least a week to settle in at home before you try to feed him, so youll have time to figure it out. Make sure there's no gaps and that the lid/doors if you have them are locked. Corn snakes are great escape artists, and they can slither away through holes you wouldn't even think they can fit through. If you don't have snake clips, you need to weight down the lid of the enclosure and buy them asap. I dont k ow what his current enclosure looks like, but make sure he has at least two hides and a hear source. The easiest way to ensure his temperatures are correct is to buy a thermometer gun. It's my favorite purchase I've ever made for my reptiles. I dont want to overwhelm you, I think that's the day one ifno you'll need. Watch the videos, read the careguide. Look through r/HerpHomesif you want inspiration for his enclosure. I'm by no means an expert, but I've been keeping reptiles for about ten years, and I'm happy to answer any questions or talk through any concerns you may have.
If you can't afford a thermostat (they can be expensive) a dimming switch like this can help you turn down the output of your bulb and lower the temp.
You can try a lower watt bulb, but you could also buy a plug-in dimmer like this to control the output. And yep! No heat overnight is fine as long as your room doesn't get below like 65 degrees. I've never had heat on at night (usually drops to around 70) and mine has had no issues with digestion.
My corn used to try being a ceiling snake all the time - we hung a couple of parrot toys like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07ZVCXL85/?th=1 and increased the depth of his substrate, he used the rope sometimes but seems to enjoy burrowing in the deeper substrate more. Not often a ceiling snake anymore.
This is the bedding I use for my corn! I switched from aspen a few years ago and I really like how the coconut chips look and they help to keep the humidity more consistent.
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
A uth? Most modern ones designed for reptiles are good. I use this combo to heat tubs:
https://www.amazon.com/PeSandy-Temperature-Adjustment-Non-Adhesive-Amphibians/dp/B07ZP8SXTP
I use an IR thermometer to check the temps in my snake’s enclosure. They’re pretty inexpensive and handy to have around, and they give you a more accurate reading than stationary thermometers.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_S7ZRCEZJ27N0Y5XRP67V
I've bought several of these mats on Amazon for emergency use when it gets cold. They're great because they have a reostat (the adjustable knob on the cord) built in. It's a great backup for a thermostat because it constantly lowers the voltage going to the mat instead of turning it off and on like most thermostats. HOWEVER A REOSTAT IS NOT A REPLACEMENT FOR A THERMOSTAT.
To get accurate temps at the surface of the tank you should invest in a cheap temperature gun (instant read thermometer gun), and adjust your reostat to give you the surface temp of the hottest place your snake can reach. In a tank this is the glass directly above the heat mat under any substrate or hides. Once you have it set plug it into a thermostat and repeat the process until you are getting the surface temps.
You setup should have the mat directly against the glass at the bottom of the OUTSIDE of the tank with the thermostat probe between the mat and the glass.
You can find some cheap supplies on Amazon to get you started. I use this thermometer and this thermostat. Neither are super expensive and do the job.
You’ll definitely want to make sure you have locks on the lid, not just weight, because snakes can get strong and push the books/weight off to escape! Or if they get halfway out and get tired the weight might crush them :( I recommend this kind of L shaped clip with a metal mesh lid because it’s worked best for me, but there are other clip/top options as well :)
Oh that’s a relief haha. It always makes me sad to read when people have escapes. I use these ones.
I agree, it's probably just too soon and he needs time to settle in. They can be very skittish as babies, but they can go longer without a meal than you think. I'd just give him a few more days to settle in completely before trying again. How are you feeding him, though? Make sure the mouse is completely thawed and heated up enough to be apatizing. I get my best feeding responses when I use a pair of tongues like these. They're not mandatory or anything, but I definitely have my snakes eating the most consistently when I use them. It may also be best to wait until you see him out and about to try to feed him, since he may be out looking for food and you'll know he's comfortable when he's out. Some baby snakes hide all the time when they're little until they've grown big enough to feel more secure, but you can help him along with the "feeling secure enough to explore" thing by making sure he has lots of substrate, plenty of hides, and tons of leaves and foliage he can duck under.
get the cracks fixed and then get snake clips to the top, https://www.amazon.com/Zilla-Reptile-Terrarium-Covers-Heavty/dp/B00HLBO4IK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=RJMS2A3KZTU0&keywords=snake+clips+cage&qid=1644518150&sprefix=snake+clips+cage%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-3 you got these https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Terrarium-Cover-Small/dp/B01F3V7PYE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=RJMS2A3KZTU0&keywords=snake+clips+cage&qid=1644518150&sprefix=snake+clips+cage%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-5 or these
AQUA KT Reptile Corner Branch Terrarium Plant Decoration with Suction Cup for Amphibian Lizard Snake Climbing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z7PRV65/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_BZBTKXPX3JB2ZGK7F169?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I love these!!!! When my girl was thinner, she would climb and loop through them for hours.
https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Storage-4-Tier-Shelving-Chrome/dp/B008I8F006?th=1 these are not cheap when they are in stock, but I own 4 of them. they are like $200 each. they won't fit a 4foot by 2 foot enclosure, because of the legs, but will fit a 48 inch by 18 inch enclosure.
if you want to go cheap, build your own table out of wood. you would still need tools to use though, but building tables are easy.
I have neough enclosures that I just stack them on the floor now. I now use the wire racks in my bedroom for storage space.
This is the one I found and in the Q and A it said it was on/off. If there’s another you’re aware of, I’d love to know ! Zoo Med ReptiTemp RT-600 Digital Thermostat Controller, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYXX9L3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_S8TRZ1DYQ5TPXWJH7M3S
Howdy partner, I just go to home depot and get in line dimmers for like 5 bucks, all you gotta do is fiddle with it for about an hour until the temperature in the enclosure is correct! https://www.amazon.com/DEWENWILS-Dimmable-Incandescent-Programmable-Extension/dp/B0865XTK36/ref=sr\_1\_6?keywords=in-line+dimmer+switch&qid=1643249605&s=lamps-light&sr=1-6
Ignored my Reddit notifications for a million years but if you’re still looking, they’re just from Amazon. I bought them for hanging kid art on windows but so far they work great for snake stuff with the hooks removed: Holiday Joy Suction Cup Hooks - Heavy-Duty Wreath Hanger - Pack of 10, All Purpose Suction Cups for Glass, Front Door, Shower Wall and Window - Variety Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPSBF9N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9JKGR21WFPTTKNZHZJK7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you! Here is a link to it if you like! An FYI: it is not an adhesive background, essentially like paper so you'll have to tape it down. For her 75 gal enclosure, I bought 4 sheets and the 4th sheet is barely used.
BannersNStands Reptile Habitat, Terrarium Background, Creepy Mossy Forest Various Sizes (12x30) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y1RFDH6/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_2V80J7E278ZCV6Z2W3BS
I just got it on Amazon if you'll believe it 😅here it is!
It's very well made too, there are no cracks or crevices, sealant is smooth, it's really beautiful so far! :)
This is all great advice. I have 2 of these, one on the warm side and one on the cool side.
Galápagos (05346) Mossy Cave Hide, 4", Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179QK0UM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JJMEM3JGCV5NRBGAAQBJ
He seems so spend most time on the warm side, but ventures to the cool side occasionally to hang out. I think what I'll do is cut some off of the moss balls take more of a cave and so it's open on the bottom so there is open access to the pad like you suggested.
I held him briefly after setting up the tank before he went in for maybe 5‐10 minutes. He was left alone for about 6 days and I took him out to feed (did it separately in a cardboard box). He ate a pinky no problem, then back I the tank. That was Thursday, then left alone until I went up to check on him and held him for about 10 minutes, and of course took some picks so I could ask questions in here. Other than daily water changes, no disturbances until next Wed or Thurs.
I waiting on a scale to arrive for first weigh in, but I figured a pinky every Thurs to keep to the feeding schedule He was already on until I can track out food to body weight ratios.
Cheap idea for the digital thermometer/ hygrometer
Govee Indoor Hygrometer Thermometer 2 Pack, Bluetooth Humidity Temperature Gauge with Large LCD Display, Notification Alert with Max Min Records, 2 Years Data Storage Export for Room Greenhouse, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0872X4H4J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YMSVSVZ7N0A374FFX7ZR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00325-Comfort-Monitor-Black/dp/B004K8RF10 I like these because they keep the 24 hour high and lows
I posted this in a different reply as well, but I went and bought an infared laser thermometer to check what it was at right now. The gradient in the enclosure was from 70* to 100* on the hot side. I didn't know it, but a painful lesson on the Thermostat today. I'm thinking of ordering this on Amazon.
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My question in terms of your comment is how would I raise the temperature on the cool side and lower the temp at the hot side at the same time? Would I move the basking light or heat pad toward the middle and set different thermostat settings for each?
Would this make it so I could better control the lamp and heat pad?
https://www.amazon.com/Pymeter-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Greenhouse/dp/B083Q7YRBM/
I went and bought an infared laser thermometer to check what it was at right now. The gradient in the enclosure was from 70* to 100* on the hot side. I didn't know it, but a painful lesson on the Thermostat today. I'm thinking of ordering this on Amazon.
Would this make it so I could better control the lamp and heat pad?
https://www.amazon.com/Pymeter-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Greenhouse/dp/B083Q7YRBM/
It's actually a strawberry hide- BUT I got it on amazon for only 12 bucks ! It's supposed to be for hamsters lol but my little guy likes it all the same :)
No worries! Glad to hear I could go the dome route.
I have just one more question, about the UVB. Would something like this work? Reptisun T5 Ho Terrarium Hood 24 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CX5HXI2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1KV657T5VGTH5V823WBH
Not a custom made, but it kind of looks like it since it fits so well!! I really like the front opening doors too, I definitely recommend. Here’s the link in case you’re interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KP1Z6JZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S95YS19Q49FDHNZP85P6?psc=1
I would highly recommend getting a temp gun, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/RockSeed-Thermometer-Non-Contact-Temperature-58℉～1022℉/dp/B08X3CPKNZ/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B08X3CPKNZ&psc=1. That way, you can measure precise and accurate surface temps anywhere in your tank at a moment’s notice. Having one has made my life so much easier! Just make sure you get one that measures surface temp (preferably with a laser guide so you can take precise readings) and not one of those forehead thermometers that are all the rage to check people for fevers as a covid precaution.
You can go even bigger than 4' x 2' x 2' actually! That's just the recommended minimum. You would probably be fined starting her in a 20 gallon, just make sure it has plenty of clutter like fake plants and hides for her. You basically want it so she can make it from one side of the tank to the other without being seen, it's wide open spaces that scare them as babies. (Its also important to make sure it's escape proof, as ratsnakes (which cornsnakes are) can climb thing in way you would never expect, and can get through holes smaller than you'd expect. Really it's just something like this that you will want, with a fixture of course. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088LHRTWB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CCV8G6NC8MSZWS4V2WXW
As much as I think your family should be ok with you having frozen feeders if they allow you to have a snake, I understand that’s not an option for you right now. It’s a bit expensive but may I suggest a mini freezer to keep the feeders in separately? I guess you can keep ice cream or whatever else you want in there too lol.
The cheapest one I see on Amazon is $80 and the others are more like $149~$300 but maybe you’ll can find something else less than $100 at your local Walmart or something.
FULLWATT Energy Efficient Silent Freezer Single Door Mini Fridge with Reversible Door 7-Grade Adjustable Temperature Removable Shelf 1.1 CU FT Capacity for Office/Home/Dorm (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086KW9G7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ARDAA9V04A7E9RYMEE6J
I would get a kitchen scale like this.
Enough room to weigh snek (just put a towel over the bowl) and meeces pieces. Then follow a feeding chart to see if she's getting enough food. I have a thin girl with tiny skull and she has to eat 3 medium mice at a time.
Limited-time deal: Daylight White Grow Light , 6000K Full Spectrum Clip Plant Growing Lamp with White Yellow LEDs ,80W Grow Light Four Head,10 Steps dimmable Levels, 3 Switch Modes, Auto 3 /9 /12H Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09287GLT5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_MM2Z86VRV20CR5EGGCRX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They are like these. Do you think they’d work permanently?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019J2MA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QTXCHCVHXJYT881FZKTJ
I’m pretty fond of this one. A little goes a long way! I’ve used it a few times to sprinkle in my snake’s terrarium and to fill his humid/warm hide and I’ve barely made a dent. Just make sure you sift through it a bit to get rid of any tiny sticks.
Oh for sure. I think, generally, especially with colubrids, a heat lamp would be better anyway. Especially because corns are crepuscular and naturally get some sun heat to begin with. However, I would be very careful if you aren't using a thermostat. Its more dangerous to do so with a heat mat because they can burrow down and get burned. With a lamp, if you aren't using a thermostat, you should definitely test it out FIRST by seeing how hot the surface gets below the heat lamp and adjust the distance accordingly. You can do that with a stand or by using a clip-on lamp. Its a very bad idea to use a heat lamp without at least knowing how hot the surface is going to get. Best practice would be to use a thermostat. But if you're going to go without one, definitely go with a lamp instead of a mat. You can get them very cheap and they will save you a lot of headache and your snake an accidentally burn.
OPULENT SYSTEMS Digital Controller Thermostat for Heat Mats Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 68-108℉ Temperature Control Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R76NT3R/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2P0Q9H2ZD6RV2RMEECSR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
yep. I bought a shop vac just to easy enclosure cleaning. the dust is hard to get out otherwise. https://www.amazon.com/Chlorhexidine-Horses-Dogs-One-Gallon/dp/B000HHNZVW you will dilute this alot before using it. it will last forever if you just have a couple of snakes.
also I keep a spray bottle just for rince water
kathson Reptile Lizard Bearded Dragon Hammock Reptile Lounger,100% Natural Grass Fibers Hammock Bed for Anoles, Bearded Dragons, Geckos, Iguanas, and Hermit Crabs,Triangular(2 Packs,7.8 x 11 inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PFH9LKG/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_9AJ2AE68VFG8YQK8A9AE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thermostat for the win. Otherwise you will fight overheating and underheating forever. Nothing worse than a burnt snake.
Do an Amazon search for seed thermostat. Here is my favorite type:
Put both the heat mat and the probe for the thermostat under the enclosure (yours has a glass bottom yes?) and set it a few degrees warmer than the temperature you want in the enclosure. Then measure it inside the enclosure to ensure there is no spot hot enough to damage your snake.
And feel free with the questions. That's what we're here for.
85'ish (F) on the warm end of the enclosure. Middle 70's on the cool end. All heating devices should be on their own thermostat. Here is my favorite:
At least two hides (one on each end). They prefer a hide that is not too big. The enclosure has to be very very secure. They are super duper escape artists. The two common escape methods are to push the screen top loose on a corner (so the top needs some kind of latch, or lock, or clip, or a hefty book on each corner), and wiggle out through the little hole(s) for the cords.
They appreciate plenty of plants and vines and sticks to explore. They don't particularly like open spaces.
A frozen/thawed mouse every 10 days should be about the right feeding schedule unless he is thin. It is very helpful to weigh your snake monthly to make sure they are healthy and thriving.
85 F (29-30C)
Upper limit low 90's F (33-34C)
Heat mat?
Ceramic heating element?
Whatever it is, it should be regulated by a digital thermostat. Without a thermostat, any heating device can cause a dangerous overheat situation. Here's my favorite:
Feel free with the questions. We're all here to help the snakes out.
A 60 watt works pretty good. 100 watts in not crazy.
It should be on a digital thermostat with the probe securely mounted right in the hot spot.
Here's my favorite:
Absolutely do not trust the suction cup to keep it mounted where it belongs. Zip tie it to a branch or glue it with hot melt to something solid. No tape inside the enclosure.
Feel free with the questions, that's what we're here for.
I don't think the expensive ones are even less likely to fail, then the cheap ones marketed for growing plants. I am using 14 of these https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI none have failed yet.
If your brought your room temperature up by 3 degrees it would make things easier, or you could just use a second heat mat thermostat set to give a step down on heat in the middle of hte enclosure without it getting going for warm to too cold too quickly.
so set the hot end thermostat to 87, and the middle thermostat to 80, then leave the cool end unheated. I did this in the winter with one of my enclosures that was in a cold corner.
I use hand warmers on one side of the tank. I personnaly put it in a small box to stop my critters from touching it directly.
I live in Quebec and blackout are more frequent here.
Thank you :D
The mushrooms are part of a cave and glow in the dark! Well, for a few minutes. I loved it so much, I bought two, one for each tank. On the downside, I would barely consider it medium-sized so for Babylon, it's already too small. But I still keep it in the enclosure because it looks so decorative (and because a part of me is still five years old and loves glow in the dark stuff on principle.)
As noted, no handling and no feeding for two full weeks. Start small, just as you suggested.
A thermostat is 100 times better than a rheostat. The rheostat is dumb and can't account for changes in room temperature. Here's my favorite:
I bought it off of Amazon! Here’s a link if you’re interested Niteangel Bearded Dragon Hammock Reptile Lounger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7XYCKZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_ZAs-FbP80619W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Chlorhexidine-Horses-Dogs-One-Gallon/dp/B000HHNZVW this stuff has to be diluted, but this stuff works great. spray it in, let is set it for about 15 minutes, wipe it out, rince by spraying in water. wipe that out.
you can use bleach much the same way, but if you don't rince the bleach out real good it has a high risk of effecting your snake.
I like to use boiling water+dish soap+ bleach when I do a deap clean, but I don't think you cna put boiling water in a glass tank without breaking the glass. I use plastic totes for the most part.
you could start by spraying in bleach diluted, then rince that out real good, then spray in the Chlorohexidine diluted, then rince out real good. you can also use cleaning vinegar.
Well a heat mat is only going to provide so much heat at the end of the day. I use this generic one. and it gives off plenty of heat, easily 100°F on the glass.
Do you have overhead heat? A CHE is far far FAR more effective at keeping the ambient air temperature up, as well as ensuring a warm spot incase your snake feels too cold. Honestly I'd take a CHE over a mat any day. Ideally you'd have both.
https://www.amazon.com/Multi-purpose-Uniheat-temperature-sensitive-products/dp/B06X95R1FN
Thank snake discovery for making a video with these listed, or I would not have been able to find them as easy.
Such a beauty. Make sure that thermometer stays put. New snake owner, but I’ve read that they can fall off and become stuck to the snake. It can be a pain to get off of them too. Highly recommend a digital thermometer with probe.
I appreciate the tips! Got the BD-Link Digital Thermometer and used this Etekcity Infared Thermometer to verify the temp being put out by the heat mat. I was asking u/pokeplants if he used a digital thermo for his heat mat since he’s also using plastic totes. Without the thermo regulator they advertise a range of 98-118 degrees! Way too hot for a corn.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI
also you can put an insulation panel under it. in a pinch cardboard or a bath towel will do
Zoo Med makes a pretty decent duo gauge! You can buy some wire clips and attach the probe to the side of his enclosure for a read on both his ambient temperature and humidity. I'll link the Amazon page for you, here! (sorry for formatting, on mobile) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY3X7P9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vkdfDbFFX3T4Z
As for humidity boxes, you can make one yourself out of any tupperware. Just use scissors or a blade, and make sure to sand down the entrance so he won't accidentally cut himself. Make sure the entrance is big enough for him to both enter AND exit at the same time. I'll link a useful tutorial from Snake Discovery. All the best! :) https://youtu.be/kS8gZXXK7S4
huge link problem
I would tie the thermostat probe to the top of the spire with zip ties or with string.
And switch to a ceramic heat emitter or a black light bulb so you can run it on the thermostat.
I would normally just use a heat mat, but it sounds like you keep your house a little too cold for that.
Oh, and by the way your snake is an Amelanistic(albino) motley morph combination
aspen bedding is pretty good, but if you are using heat lamps or a CHE then you will want to use a bedding like cypress or coconut chips since they hold humidity well.
Unfortunately none of the thermostats that are the dimming or pulse proportional are very affordable for keeping a simple corn snake.
I am in a sort of dilemma myself. I have a radiant heat panel, but using that with a simple off and on thermostat will likely over shoot the target temp by 10 degrees on a cold start up. I find this happens with mt cheap thermostats even with my heat mats by about 5 degrees, but it is not that big of a swing, but a big RHP like I am going to use with my new enclosure could take the enclosure up to 100 degrees.
The solution I am going to try and test out is using adding a rheostat in between the thermostat and my RHP. I hope this will diel back the power enough so it don't not over shoot the target temperature as much on the cold start ups.
You can try this to, but I have no clue if it will work. The research into electrical has me confidant that I won't start a fire, and nothing will explode if I plug in the rheostat in between the 2.
This is the rheostat I am going to try using with the thermostat https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KXHCK3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
so you absolutely need to have a thermostat on it to make sure it doesn’t get too hot. you plug the mat into this and it controls the temperature. their bellies can and will burn if it gets too hot. i use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hnjGFb0KNAD3G
if the bedding is dry, i’d replace it wish some fresh stuff but corns are pretty adaptable to humidity. as long as they have plenty of water in their enclosure, they should be okay.
You put heating mats on the under side of the enclosure so your snake won’t come into direct contact with it. It’s important to also have a thermometer so the pad doesn’t get too hot.
Here’s the link for the one I use. I keep it set at 88-90 degrees.
BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Breeding Incubation Greenhouse, 40-108°F, 8.3A 1000W ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_7fjGFb7J53FWX
Hello Ozzy!!! I'd recommend cage clips to lock his cage down.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXT6UZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oJrsFbZ9KXABE
I use this for a five foot boa's cage and he cannot get out. One for each corner. Much more convenient than moving a ton of books.
Is Ozzy a particular Morph?
yeah, you may want to get some cheap thermometers to put around the enclosure. I like the hydrometer/thermometer 2 in one.
Yeah the looks like an ok set up for an older corn snake. Fake branches are pretty good. You can use real branches if you bake them at about 200 degrees for 2 hours. and older corn snake is not going to want to climb on small branches, so you are going to want to look for thicker stuff.
you really need to get a thermostat. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI?pd_rd_w=U4z8J&pf_rd_p=cb335323-1c34-41e9-9be4-1577c64bd1ea&pf_rd_r=BAZATS1Z36KZJ77EPX2W&pd_rd_r=4b929bf7-343a-479f-aab8-12c20c0c3292&pd_rd_wg=Ac3Wf&pd_rd_i=B015F4VFGI&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_5_t I am using like 11 of these right now, and I have 2 more ready for when my next snakes come in.
Try amazon smile to donate to charity automatically at no cost to you!
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I’d say using a small fan or find the dryers room in the house. A fan will move air through the tank and keep it dryer, but you may need to regulate it manually too stop it from getting crazy dry. Here’s a fan I found on amazon
I’d say using a small fan or find the dryers room in the house. A fan will move air through the tank and keep it dryer, but you may need to regulate it manually too stop it from getting crazy dry. Here’s a fan I found on amazon
It’s fake! I got it off Amazon. Link here. Just a warning if you decide to buy them, I love the look but the quality is definitely so-so. There’s a wire inside the stem so you can bend it as you please, but it was poking through in a few areas. I meticulously went over the whole thing and used a hot glue gun to reinforce and smooth over any areas that looked risky.
Oh okay, I have one of these I got for the heat mat, which I can return, would something like this one work? If not do you know what brands I should look out for? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, I'm using Aspen, I have a UTH coming in the mail, but I may invest in a light for day light heat/ambient temps, and just use it with the UTH for night heat, but I'm wondering if that's overkill. I'm known to spoil my critters a bit haha. I have two hides coming in the mail tomorrow, one warm/one cool. I don't have a sander/file so I'm worried that it may be too jagged if I cut a hole, perhaps a mason jar with wet paper towel in it would work well?
My hides are both kind of open, hence why I was thinking the rock one, my hides currently, one is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L91BCMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and one is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018CJNEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Though they will both be somewhat submerged in aspen, was going to give him a few inches of aspen to burrow in, so it's not like he's completely exposed, I just liked the look of these and they had good reviews and looked like they may help with shedding when it comes time, to rub on them. ) I got the large corner water dish by zoo med, so his humidity should go up then, which is good.
Is the thermostat for a under the tank heater? I have uth for my snakes. I ordered thermostats off of amazon, they work great. You just plug the heater into the thermostat, set what you want the temp to be, and then put the probe above the heater. Temp might be a couple of degrees above or below what you set it to be. I currently have 4 of them and couldn’t be happier.
Century Digital Heat Mat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I have this one, no escapes yet! I did remove the foam in the back, since my noodle is small enough to get behind it, and I also jammed the holes in the top for cords closed with a broken chop-stick.
Zilla has these "Critter Cages" that have a unique track on the top so the lid slides in and snaps, locking it down. I used their 20 gallon version for my corn snake until he outgrew it, and now it's home to a kingsnake. I was never able to find a bigger size, I'd love to get a 40-gallon one. Only other drawback is the lid's mesh is a little weak, my cat jumped on it a few times and eventually broke it. But they do sell replacement lids.
UTH's reach temps of 120 degrees + just plugged into the wall. A thermostat, found here (https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528258805&sr=8-1&keywords=jumpstart+thermostat) regulates the temperature to what you decide so it does not burn your reptile. You plug the mat into the thermostat and place the probe in the tank so it can read the temp on the floor above the heat mat and turn it on/off as need be.
I have these on both of my vivs. They work great and are much cheaper.
VIVOSUN Digital Seedling Heat Mat Thermostat Controller 68-108℉ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F4VFGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gENlBbG0815XA