On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JYW96Q2
I wanted the CRT effect but didn't really want to find a 100lb monstrosity sitting on my office desk (I already have the Trinitron for the consoles). It's not perfect and of course isn't the same as a real CRT, but it really looks pretty good for the $30 it cost, and best of all processes the entire image so I don't have to try to run filters for the games themselves. It really looks pretty solid, all things considered.
I don't know about all that living as long as you but to lengthen the life of your CRT:
Lower the contrast, if it's too high. That right there is tied to voltage and to how much phosphor activation you intend to "use".
Keep it stored and also running in a nominal environment of room temperature 68-72ºF (20ºC) with the lowest humidity you can.
Don't bring it in from the cold into a warm place or high humidity and then turn it on quickly. That accumulated moisture from either place will damage something or at least cause weird issues.
Keep the screen face itself out of direct sunlight. Yes it does affect the phosphors.
Keep the CRT itself out direct sunlight. Yes sunlight may get through vents and overtime can degrade things. Also unnecessary heat added if you have it running.
I keep my CRT unplugged when I am done. Quality of power filtering, nature, and power companies sucking ass makes it a worthwhile thing to do.
You still want to keep it plugged in huh? Get a Tripp-Lite Isobar or better. Don't daisy chain strips also be wary of cheap crap.
If you are going to store it for a while, make sure to power it up every 2 months. Caps don't like sitting with stored energy as it shortens their life, especially the ones near the power section and the deflection circuit that get the most workout.
Reminds me if your CRT is worth it, get the boards recapped and do a safe static-free dust removal a la can of compressed air. That will markedly extend the life of the whole CRT assembly.
But really, otherwise, the less time a tube is on, the longer it will last.
These will let you plug you component inputs in:
VCE (5-Pack) Gold-Plated RCA Female Plug to BNC Male Jack Adapters Coaxial Connector for CCTV Security Camera Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KMZTSX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DF.-Db345T1VC
One of the inputs is an xbox connector. Amazon link
If you have rollercoaster tycoon 2, you can download open rct2 and drop the files into your rct2 folder. This gives you access to online multiplayer and a bunch of added features not originally in the game! This works with the steam version as well!
link to download
It’s a karaoke machine and somehow these are still made today with CRTs. It’s a crappy little black & white thing.
Example from amazon you can buy new right now:
Xbox 360 and Dreamcast are great on VGA monitors. Likewise, you can use a cheap VGA scaler to play your older consoles. If you get a VGA cable for the 360 don't get a cheap one! Get an official one or a Monster (got my Monster VGA on clearance for a couple bucks on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BTICMS/).
Some arcade boards output VGA. PC emulation will look amazing, especially if you have scan line generation in your emulator. If you didn't have a high refresh rate PC monitor, you do now. Well, at least for lower resolutions. High refresh rate gaming is pretty great.
Speaking of scan lines, an external scan line generator can make your games look they're being played on a PVM or BVM. Not bad for free. http://m.imgur.com/a/m1Bhk
VGA monitors can play games from systems that have component video via either a transcoder or a scaler.
Here's a neat trick - VGA monitors don't have "native resolution" like LCD. Try 640x480 Or 800x600 and compare that to what it looks like on your LCD. It's pretty great.
The VGA monitor you have isn't a fantastic brand but it's got a lot going for it, especially the price, lol. HAVE FUN
The one I always recommend using is this:
It's not as dirt cheap as possible, but 15 is pretty fair for something that just straight up works and adds no lag.
amazon $12 rn
I have one of those, and can personally confirm that it won't run at OP's specs.
This is a better option that can handle a much higher pixel clock. I've used it up to 2048x1536 without issue.
>I know there's some HDMI to VGA converters on Amazon, anyone have experience with these?
Haven't had a chance to actually try it out with my PS3, but it's worked wonderfully for both my Wii U and Switch. This isn't the only decent one out there, just the one I have personal good experience with.
You could hypothetically get a cheapo little composite to VGA converter that would work, but the picture quality would be garbage amongst there being other issues. The proper way to do it would be to get a line doubler of some sort. Someone else will have to recommend you a good one of those though.
I respect your dedication but there is a better way. Just buy protector caps. They are super cheap.
Edit: Forgot to add that they have dust caps for a butt load of different plugs.
Just got my StarTech DP2VGAHD20 yesterday, it's capable of 375Mhz. It would run your 1920x1440@75Hz perfectly and does not cost as much as a DPU3000 or other synaptics based adapter, considering that wavy effect is not the monitors fault.
This guy has an arcade cabinet with a pretty cool rotating CRT setup (around halfway down the page). If you can de-case the TV you could mount it at the four corners like he did.
Hiram, GA - This looks like an FV310 to me, would need to confirm with the seller (not me). Link
Cartersville, GA - Also found this one, which also looks like an FV310 to me (I am also not the seller here). Link
Hopefully you guys can grab them. I'm in search of a 36", but I think these are a bit too far for me (and look like they might be the 27 or 32" models)
Sony PVM-14N6U / $125/ Port Jervis, NY / On FB Marketplace
Not my listing, but I've bought from this seller before, very cool and honest seller.
I don't think BVMs have speakers in the first place, so you'd have to either use your console's optical audio out (assuming you have a sound bar or a stereo receiver that has a optical audio in) or a HDMI audio extractor that'll plug between the console and the converter (using the audio extractor's pass-through port)
For example this one (one of the cheapest I could find): https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa
This should result in a chain like this:
Console HDMI -> HDMI audio extractor -> HDMI to 3G-SDI converter
On the audio extractor you'd get a audio output that'll plug in your speakers (or stereo system).
FYI the Roku Express+ comes with composite output for anyone who wants to watch srteamed content on their CRTs without an adapter.
If you're wanting something simple and aren't worried too much about the absolute best quality get one of these cheap Amazon adapters and run at 640x480. Actually trying to use Windows is terrible on it, but for my use case I just it to watch Plex and it works great for that. Text might be hard to read depending on the size, but for GBA stuff I would imagine it would be fine.
From what I looked just now, the name "Panasonic Tau" came up. On the US eBay, a model CT-34WX52 came up, and it is claimed by eBay to be en EDTV:
That being said, Amazon and other places, including reviews has the same model listed as a digital HDTV and not an analog EDTV:
So I don't think that's it, and eBay can be crap with their categories, but for a minute I thought there was something there. I tried to look more and found other models, like a Philips, but upon close inspection, they were also HD-Ready digital CRTs, not analog EDTVs. The search continues! I would look more into "Panasonic Tau"... there's bound to be an EDTV in the States somewhere. Don't dismiss HD CRT listings either, sometimes they are mislabeled EDTVs! In the other hand, HD CRTs are much less common in Europe and very desirable, especially the Trinitrons, although EDTVs are not easy to find here neither.
I posted this in a comment already so you can ignore that if you want. Depending on the output of your AV to RF converter you might need something else. The ones that I have all have a coaxial output. You can get some of these to go on the end of the coax cable and plug it into the 'ext ant' on the back.
From a quick look at pictures of those, it seems all you need is https://www.amazon.com/Roku-composite-cable-yellow-models/dp/B01LZ6FZAA (or generic equivalent, but keep in mind that there are multiple incompatible standards for TRRS to triple RCA cables, and what's probably now most common - the CTIA standard, used for 4G/5G iPods, Zune, Xbox 360 superslim, and most Raspberry Pis - is not good for your roku, which instead wants a cable equivalent to that for the iBooks and Creative Zens!)
Or of course you could make your own - tip to sleeve: white, red, yellow, all grounds!
Once you get that working comes the issue of sound, as it will come out lopsided since you're not connecting the red plug - which can be solved fairly easily but that's for a later comment :)
You’re in luck, I took some of the strips as well.
Where to buy them:
LED Strip Lights, HitLights 4... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08885ZJTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Put a couple of briefcase latches on the side. It'll look funny but it will be secure and they're easy to install.
I figured I'd hit both of your responses in one go since I just got out of a meeting:
For PC CRTs, CRU auto-populates everything perfectly for every CRT I've given it. It's only TVs where I've had to mess around with it to get things right (but even that's unnecessary when Arcade OSD does things much easier and with instant results).
I have a few AMD cards in a few different systems, but my main desktop has an R9 270X, and that's been my best purchase so far. For anything I would ever want to use it for that I somehow someway can't get my 2080 Super to do the heavy lifting, the 270X can handle without a care in the world.
Worth noting, the R9 only powers my 15kHz CRTs. My PC CRTs are handled directly by my 2080 Super, care of a StarTech DisplayPort to VGA adapter. It says it only handles up to 1920x1080 over VGA, but it lies; I've pushed it as high as 2048x1536. It's rock solid.
Or connect it to a cheap pair of PC speakers. Something like this.
Even cheaper if you pick it up from a pawn shop or thrift store. Usually lots of 90's PC speakers at thrift stores.
Portta N3CVTHR HDMI Converter HDMI to YPbPr RGB Component Plus R/L Audio Converter V1.3 Support 1080P@60Hz 2 Channel LPCM HDMI Audio Extractor for HDTV PS3 PS4 HDVD Player Wii Xbox etc, black and blue https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fqGeGb35P0CR4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Those are good for HDMI consoles and lower end monitors but can't handle enough bandwidth to run higher specced monitors at their full resolution/refresh rate potential.
Better to go with a good DP to VGA converter for that. I recommend the StarTech DP2VGAHD20.
I’d do HDMI to composite and then composite to RF. The quality won’t be great but that on RF.
HDMI to RCA Converter, HDMI to Composite Video Audio Converter Adapter, HDMI to AV, Supports PAL/NTSC for PS4, Xbox, Switch, TV Stick, Roku, Blu-Ray, DVD Player, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0814Z34XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_vYv.Fb5655A4F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Okay, sounds good :) Just a few things:
If by 'Retrotink 2x pro 480p passthrough' you mean the Retrotink 2x pro multiformat, then that'll work great. However, I'm not sure if the standard 2x pro supports 480p passthrough. Also, make sure you're not scaling any 240p games. Scaled 240p wont have any scanlines, and I'm fairly sure the 2x pro multiformat scales 240p fairly blurily, so it won't look as good as it should on that awesome monitor.
Also, this is the HDMI to component converter that Bob from RetroRGB recommends:
While it's a DisplayPort adapter and not HDMI, this is the best I've found so far. I've fed it 120 Hz 2560x240, 75 Hz 1920x1440, and 60 Hz 2048x1536 without issue. Any other adapter I've tried has failed at handling at least the latter two, if not all three.
Yeah, lots of us have them. Myself and others have gotten ours here.
Another good option is the StarTech DP2VGAHD20 which can allegedly handle up to 375MHz. I've got one of those on the way right now actually.
>the problem with the adapter or connector (HDMI or DP to VGA), is that apparently many of them don't work or don't work well.
You need to buy an active adapter in order to get it working. No input lag and they're quite cheap, around 5$ or less on ebay or a bit more if you go to amazon. The best adapter avaible is this one
But honestly in your case the cheapest one will do the job, the one above is capable of pushing 235mhz pixel clock resolutions, while the rest are limited to ~170mhz.
I ordered this component to VGA transcoder off Amazon today.
It looked like most of the bad reviews were people expecting it to upscale or deinterlace.
Muscle Rack on Amazon
I actually negotiated mine down to 200, and there were some that went for 80 recently. (After I bought mine of course), and the discs are still available on Amazon Japan for $100 for 50.
I use this one in my 240p setup with an older AMD card and CRT Emudriver. It's a transcoder, so it just takes the signal you give it and passes it on, no lag.
I use this one for downscaling high resolution sources to 480i, and the result is much smoother than outputting native 480i from the other box. It has about one frame of lag, basically imperceptible.
Composite converted to Coax, which is then converted to 3.5mm. How I was able to hook up my DVD player and composite systems to a Sony TV-511E.
Without modding, this monitor is composite only. You can get cheap RCA to BNC adapters on Amazon to convert the video input to standard plugs.
Amazon, I have one for my daughter's nightlite.
Best advice I can give for RF, skip the RF boxes that came with the consoles. Any old console that supports native RF out, grab one of these and run a nice RCA cable to it. Cleaner and stronger signal.
Pretty sure this is a Sony 34xbr960. It looks just like mine.
$1 / El Paso, Texas
Looks like it has some cosmetic damage, maybe from having all the weight of the glass overhanging that small dresser.
They sell Genesis RGB cables on ebay (not the best quality) that you connect to PVMs or BVMs using RCA to BNC adapters.
A number of thick pins to desolder unfortunately, but it's straight forward, just desolder all the pins, swap, resolder all the pins
Since it's a lot of solder you want to have a solder gun that can use suction, either a fancy desoldering gun with a built in electric pump or a cheap more normal looking one with a normal pump built into the tip that I used, like £10
This is the PC port, which is currently available on GOG.com.
If you've heard bad stories about the PC ports of Neo Geo games, they're still half-right: Mark of the Wolves was handed to a new dev team, and they knocked it out of the park with this one, so this is a significant improvement.
Sony PVM-14M2U - $80 - Lexington, KY
Not my listing but I thought it was worth sharing. I'd go get it myself if I had the money right now.
According to page 20 of the manual https://www.docdroid.net/udRzslO/mitsubishi-am4201r-manual.pdf#page=20
it's noted that that the hi-vision menu that allows you to change the input to YPbPr only displays when you feed an input with a horizontal scanning frequency of approximately 33kHz. It might not work with 480i over component. See if you have any luck with a 480p signal
To be entirely honest, I was only made aware of it a few months ago.
The SP models were apparently from a later run of the monitor used for development of certain HDTV standards.
Have the manual, provided from someone who was passing along one of these some months ago.
Here's two topics to get you started (their Facebook is also very responsive in my experience so far):
2nd link started out about the Gert666 - but the config.txt settings apply for both (and GOOD info in there about how to adjust the screen size and centering - and get it to not flicker which you'll see happens to many of us if the settings aren't right)
This came up on my gumtree if anyone is interested
New old stock Wega, it doesn’t have any details on the model though
BVM-D20F1U (recently recapped 58K hours) / $1,000 / Los Angeles, CA
Really hate to be putting this up for sale since it's in great shape but I spend most of my CRT gaming time on a PVM-14L5 that's just easier to set up. Comes with a 16:9 and 4:3 bezel and the coveted mounting rack for the BKM remote.
DM me any questions. I'm willing to ship, but only using uship.com so check there for pricing.
San Diego, CA 80$
1950s Portable TV probably the coolest looking TV I've ever seen thats why I'm sharing it. Apparently it still turns on I have no clue how you'd get a picture to it though.
sweet thanks for digging. it looks like this maybe is sending the signal the other way? for a RJ11 camera going into a BNC input that doesn't provide power. anyways could be worth a shot. appreciate it.
edit: searched for a similar product to what you linked. gonna try this one out as it included audio as well and the monitor does have a built in speaker. i'll let ya know how it works out
I think the 1702 looks better - it also supports S-Video on the rear, those meme TVs don't (they can be modded tho).
^ Just need a cable like this one
i’ve tried a combo of this plus this (just the cable part) with no luck. perhaps the wiring doesn’t match up
That looks like an XLR port rated for 12v input. You normally see these things on mixing boards, PA systems, etc.
Apparently, some professional video equipment can use it as an alternative power connector: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019N9EOI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_2GF6KG07Y0CPPM54XMTX
It's just another power connector. I wouldn't bother with it.
I'm thinking a Retrotink 2X-Mini with an HDMI to VGA converter is what you need.
One of these https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Connectors-Extension-RFAdapter-Subwoofer/dp/B08ZSS6GL4 (or similar RCA Y connector) would also work to combine the audio channels and shouldn't have any negative impact.
Here’s the model I purchased
BENFEI HDMI to VGA,Gold-Plated HDMI to VGA Adapter (Male to Female) With 3.5mm Audio Compatible for Computer, Desktop, Laptop, PC, Monitor, Projector, HDTV, Raspberry Pi, Roku, Xbox, PS4, Mac Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KLKQN9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M4ZSKXN0C4AX27X8B5Q1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Pick these up, shocked myself a few times recently before buying these. These will prevent shock or damage to your equipment
Came up in another thread. It's a common European laundry stool which led to some confusion, but in the US getting it under the Wenko brand appears to be the easiest way: https://www.amazon.com/WENKO-Candy-Bathroom-Stool-Grey/dp/B06X96N9YX
All I can say is that we used to have one for our set when I was a kid, so I know they exist. don't know what they'd be called....
It's an RF connection, right? does this thing work?
I have used one of these to go from PS3/XBox360 to CRT and it works well, I don't know if PS4 sends HDCP signals because then it might not work so well.
Haha. Most people can't seem to understand why I'm into these things until I mention how much they sell for on eBay nowadays.
Side note be sure that you get a DP to miniDP not the other way around, they are not reversible. And there aren't a whole lot of options available on Amazon. This looks like it would work.
Indeed it did. It could be mounted either below or on top of the TV, the latter for under a kitchen cabinet. Here's an example of what the former looks like: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-KV-9PT50-9-Trinitron-TV/dp/B00001YVG4
You want an adapter, not necessarily just a cable. Something that will convert the digital HDMI signal to an analogue RGBHV or 'VGA' signal that your CRT can interpret.
It's a very straightforward kind of conversion so almost anything will do, Portta are a pretty safe bet though (assuming you don't need audio out, which for some reason wasn't wired up internally in mine).
You just need an RF modulator of some sort. You can even convert other signals down to composite if you want to get really crazy, but an RF modulator will take care of all the classic consoles.
So thats a mid range monitor but for a mid range monitor thats definitely a good deal. The power button issue can be solved with one of these https://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-Switch-Efficient-25511/dp/B0113VTPSW if you don't feel like messing with the monitor and trying to fix it. The stand issue will cost you a little more to fix but even just a box of some type under it might work.
This is the converter here!
And ah okay! Thank you so much. I was worried because I know you can push a CRT monitor beyond what you should with custom resolutions and such, and I wasn't sure if that lack of support from the switch would cause similar issues.
The exact one I got isn't on amazon anymore but This one is pretty close I got the 12" model
There are plenty of basic HDMI to component converters out there that will take whatever resolution you give them (up to a certain point) and convert it to analogue without any scaling.
That's assuming you can get your PC to output a 15 kHz signal. If so, this Portta converter should do the job.
I got myself a converter box for hdmi to composite and the image looks like trash and won't scale properly. I have been trying to set my PC to have custom resolutions to fit my TV with nvidia, but it won't let me. No matter what other resolution I pick, it's still off and the whites are all wobbly. I spent all night looking stuff up on how to do this and got no headway. Can anyone give me tips on how to make this look decent?
Nice, glad I could help. Yeah the GPU market is all sorts of screwed but it will be worth the wait. Modern PC gaming on a good PC CRT is an absolute joy, you will be hooked.
> do you have any idea why the monitor/HDMI converter would refuse to work with my PS3 or a laptop?
I know the PS3/4's HDMI ports don't put out enough power, which causes problems with HDMI to VGA DAC's. Some converters have the option to be powered externally which should solve it. I have this one which works well for me, though I haven't tried it with a PS3/4.
I used this little boi :
It's very inexpensive and it can do both PAL and NTSC. It's still a cheap chineese product, so don't expect 4k on your crt.
(as they're all the same, I took an unbranded one just to be sure)
If I’m understanding you correct, get these and you can connect headphones and control them with the tv volume
2 RCA Male and 3.5mm Stereo Female, 6 Inch Gold Plated Connector, Y-Cable CNE63102 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2SXTJ6M4K69X168CPMPK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sony RM-YD092 (1-492-065-11) Factory Original Replacement Smart TV Remote Control for All LCD LED Bravia TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711CJT9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SSM14KZHE50R5BJAGWN3 I bought the eBay one, but I bought this one as well. I bought this one yesterday 😕😕
What’s your cashapp dude. I’ve been trying to find answers and you literally helped me out with everything
I bought this one amazon yesterday but I guess is the wrong one. Sony RM-YD092 (1-492-065-11) Factory Original Replacement Smart TV Remote Control for All LCD LED Bravia TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711CJT9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MHN7TR22Q8PV1MT42FXB.
I need to find one eBay
I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but this is a whole usb vga graphics card, and yes it can be used with usb 2 and 3
If you want a DP-VGA adapter that can do 1920 x 1440, you can get one from Amazon here:
I can use it at 2048 x 1536 @ 75 Hz no problem.
If you dont mind me jumping in on this, what would be a high quality vga dac? I actually picked up basically this same monitor about 30 minutes ago. I have one of those cheap hdmi to vga adapters (this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GZ8DX7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_JF4QG4617A16X481G7BS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=) and I get video out of it but I haven't played around with settings at all. Do you think this adapter will give me any trouble and if so do you have any recommendations?
The one that did not strip HDCP was one by Blackmagic- same as yours. The one that DID work was this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FSQBVJE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I can't guarantee that they haven't made any changes, though- I bought mine last May.
What type of Matrix? I wouldn't count on it stripping HDCP, but I guess its possible. I was actually running mine through a Sewell 6x2 matrix and then an Extron Scaler to take 1080p down to 720p and HDCP stayed intact.
The only thing that gives me pause in saying its definitely HDCP is when my Apple TV had the issue, I got an HDCP error on screen, but I'm unsure what was generating it- so its possible your equipment may not show that.
Hey I appreciate the recommendation. I am curious what is the purpose/function of that box compared to something much cheaper like https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-102509-S-Video-Composite-Adapter/dp/B001I25ZWM? Lag or something else?
Oh, OK. I hadn't realized that modulator had screw-on connections. So maybe you need a push-on adapter to go with it?
I've been seeing a lot of people talk about this converter around this subreddit often, displays over 60hz and has no lag people claim. Perfect solution for people with digital only gpu's trying to use a crt monitor to it's fullest potential.
Do it! Sony PVM-20M2U. Exact fit into the rails and heavy so the top shelf was a bit tricky. Love having it recessed in rather than on top though.
In the video here I’m using this shelf upside down: StarTech.com 2U Heavy Duty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YE5C34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_AW--FbFQHMDXG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not really happy with this shelf for few reasons I ordered this other shelf that mounts on both sides: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=39361
Since the TV fits the rack precisely, it didn’t fit inside the original shelf I got. Hence having to flip it upside down. This monitor is 66lbs so didn’t feel secure about it being cantilever.
I was going to recommend the Monoprice one, but unfortunately it looks like it's been discontinued.
But honestly, the whole "feeding composite through the S-video connector" thing is more of a myth than anything. As long as you don't buy the cheapest piece of junk you can find, it should be fine.
The Delock 87685 is functionally identical to the Sunix. You can buy it here.
You only really need one of those if you want to push a super top-of-the-line 130+kHz monitor to the limit, though. For a cheaper option I recommend the StarTech DP2VGAHD20, it can handle up to around 375MHz pixel clock which is plenty for most monitors.
You're going to need one of these and one of these.
I've got a StarTech DP2VGAHD20 and Delock 62967. They're both good options. But the displayport connector on the Delock is a little too short and some people have problems getting a good connection.
They're just off for the holiday season. I'm sure you could just wait till the second or so...
Otherwise buy a cheap genesis Scart RGB cable off amazon and a DB25 connector like these, cut and splice them:
For a little CRT, and the whole room having such a clean look. I’d personally stick with smaller, clean desktop speakers for a PC. Google things like best sounding, best looking pc speakers to see what you might like. Lots of crazy looking stuff out there, some creep up quick in price. But if I was looking for something immediately for that room I’d do these:
Creative Pebble 2.0 USB-Powered Desktop Speakers with Far-Field Drivers and Passive Radiators for PCs and Laptops (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791J2658/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_idgMFbQK9901C?psc=1
I’d do the white ones for that purdy tele. I own a pair, best under $20 pair of speakers you’ll find new that don’t look awful. They still sound like cheap speakers but they’re better than average for such a cheap price.
Well keep in mind with speakers like screens it's a long term investment. I think they retail for $350/pair but Amazon has had the black ones for $199 for a while now. I can almost guarantee you won't find a better speaker out there for $100 each.
I'm using a small class T pre-amp to drive them. The Topping Tp22 is pretty great, zero distortion and small footprint. It doesn't have a ton of wattage but if you don't want to blow your eardrums out it should be plenty powerful. My Genesis Model 1 is probably my quietest system and when I want to rock out to some Lightening Force and crank it I get it up to about the halfway position on the knob. You can see my setup in this pic. (ignore the center speaker, it's a holdover while I finish changing my setup over to my new TV)
Thanks for the info. I guess I should've been more clear, that I want to open mine up -- not to adjust the yoke -- but to just use some canned air and clean the dust out of it. Every time I turn mine on I occasionally get a burnt dust smell like when you turn an electric heater on that hasn't been on for a while.
Anyway, glad your adjustment worked. It looks great. You were also my inspiration for getting an AV cart to hold mine. I have this one coming in a few days https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KYN51E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I really liked yours, but it was out of stock on amazon.
I'm not sure if this helps, but I recently bought an Extron Crosspoint 450 off eBay that came without a power cable. I bought a universal power cable off Amazon for less than $10 and, while I have yet to try it, I see no reason why it wouldn't work given the look of the power input on the back of the Crosspoint.
That all being said, I have no idea what the back of a 192v, 201, or 203 looks like, so apologies if it is a special ac input and not one of these universal ones!
Assuming that your cable works (it's safe to assume that) and that your Playstation 2 outputs audio, yes, speakers would fix it. I don't use the speaker on my 20L5 at all. Frankly these monitors have a poor speaker and most anything you can buy will be better; stereo is far better anyways.
You would need a male stereo phono to female 3.5mm phone adaptor. Here's one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/CableWholesale-Cable-Y-Cable-6-Inch-30S1-01260/dp/B000I23TTE (I'm from Canada so it's a Canadian link)
There are some speakers that accept stereo phono connectors, but you're far more likely to find one using a 3.5mm phone jack.
The tv already had a spot for it on the board so I just soldered on the s-vid jack and it works. I thought I would need extra wiring but turns out s-vid runs through the same internal wiring as composite video. All you need is a soldering kit and one of these.
I live in Japan so links to the ones I use wouldn't be super helpful (I'm assuming).
Not sure the dimensions of your TV, but these Amazon basics shelves are rated to hold insane amounts of weight.
They have a range of sizes so have a look.
i tried connecting the wii via composite, using the nintendo official component cable, but nothing happen... (this is what make me think that the pvm doesnt work...)
as for the scart, i am using an old cable i found in the box where the psx and ps2 was stored (it was the one i used back in the days of psx/ps2). for the snes, i bought a cheap one found on amazon (this one: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B001T09222/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).