What are /r/dogs' favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

• https://www.amazon.com/Nutro-Limited-Ingredient-Potato-Recipe/dp/B01N1TY8K3?th=1

I don't know if this will help at all but it looks like on Amazon, your first subscribe and save order for dog food is 40% off so this would count.

Don’t get too discouraged, it took us six months to get here! I found this book extremely helpful: https://www.amazon.com/Leave-Step-Step-Separation-Anxiety/dp/0981722733

Since I’ve been working from home since the pandemic, it’s made training a lot easier. Basically, just coming and going in short intervals a lot and slowly increasing the duration. I also leave her with a number of things when I’m leaving for more than an hour that I think help. I hide a bunch of treats in a snuffle mat, which she’s obsessed with and gets her distracted so I can sneak out the door without her even noticing. I also leave her with her Kong filled with frozen wet food, a dirty sweatshirt of mine on the couch, and have piano music on. I also got a pheromone diffuser that I plugged in right by the front door, and in general, I try to wear her out if I know I’m going out that later day — an extra long walk or an hour at the dog park. Seems like a lot of work to set up every time you go out, sure, but it brings me a lot of peace of mind!

I agree with this! Except, I would suggest getting a frame like this one. When my childhood cat passed away, my vet's office made a clay paw print for me which I kept put away until recently. I had it on my desk and at some point, my boyfriend's cat knocked it over without me realizing it, and my boyfriend rolled over it with his chair. A huge chunk of it is missing now and I don't have many pictures of him as phones and computers have changed over so many years. That's why I suggest a frame or a shadow box for it! The frame is just nice because you can put your favorite picture of them with it too.

Please buy your dog a life jacket. Doesn't matter if he can swim, at least he won't swim to death.

https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-Granby-Life-Jacket/dp/B0081XIK4Q/ref=zg_bs_3024173011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=142SHJV264WPTH2RC7M6

This is so funny! I adopted my girl Violet (also a street pup) a few years ago, and she was also totally non plussed by toys. Our other dog LOVES toys, so we get Barkbox but even with all those options each month Violet couldn't be bothered... until one random month, this Big Foot toy came in the box: https://www.amazon.com/BarkBox-Interactive-Stuffed-Squeaky-Medium/dp/B07Q4DSNSR

Just like your Heinz, Violet likes to gently carry and groom Big Foot. It has a squeaker, but she would NEVER bite Big Foot hard enough for it to make a sound. She doesn't take him everywhere, but she sleeps with Big Foot at night and and nibbles his fur before bed. Glad our dogs finally found a toy to make them happy ❤

mushers secret works amazingly. Also watch how much your dog walks on rough surfaces.

Amazon has loads of bow ties for dogs. Advertised as ties for “kids boy girl pets dog cat” etc etc. Usually come in packs of 12 for $10-13. Also can buy storage containers for bow ties on Amazon so you can look at your collection properly.

Example

Source: I may or may not own 75 bow ties for my dog. HE’S A FANCY GUY AND HE LOOKS AMAZING!

Edit: the requested album

> no purpose in putting wolf back into an animal we worked on domesticating eons ago

We didn't remove the wolf, studies have shown they evolved on their own. Take a free uni course on it if you're curious.

While we are on the subject, here is my direwolf.

I have 2 rescues...a Labardor Retriever and a Siberian Husky both around 3 years old. I just recently got this long lead leash. The 100 foot one and it is really light. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M14EBC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was a game changer. Neither will actually go to the full length except when I am throwing a ball for the Lab. It is pretty cheap.

I can tell you which I have if that helps? I've bought 3 of them now (one per dog) and they have worked out great (in the winter I end up walking in the dark a lot).

https://smile.amazon.com/LED-Dog-Collar-Rechargeable-Available/dp/B00UAINMVQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

What about using booties so that her feet never actually touch the ground?

I will get downvoted, I'm sure, but if your aim is good get some of that spray on temporary hair color. It's basically just powder with a weak binder. I'm not claiming it's totally safe BUT if I were in your shoes I would be more worried about my safety than some rando-dog being a rainbow. Obviously don't aim for the face but a well placed bright green line down the back, on the ribs or on the butt has solved a few issues for me. Imagine the owner's surprise to see that someone has taken up the role of being the neighborhood-problem-dog-decorator. I've done this twice, both times the dogs were placed on a chain when they were outside from that point on. It's a fairly harmless way to get your point across.

https://www.amazon.com/Temporary-Hair-Color-Spray-Colors/dp/B00EDVKVME/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1546379523&sr=8-3&keywords=temporary+hair+color+spray

I had a chunky foster who would scarf her food then cry for more. For hours.

I started feeding her out of this $8 tricky treat ball from Amazon & it worked so well. She enjoyed the play aspect (and it kept her moving!), and it slowed her down so much that she'd frequently feel full and come back to chill with me when there was still a little food left.

You might want to try a different style of dog coat. I find the horse blanket style is much easier to fit than the hoodie/shirt style. For getting the right fit this style is my favorite.

We have an extremely athletic (from the vet's mouth) Australian Sheppard mix. We got a 50' leash lead. She can run, play, chase a ball etc. But still be on a lead. It works. Great. Just get a harness and not a collar.https://www.amazon.com/Justzon-Cotton-Training-black-15-Feet/dp/B01L5REDNG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=50+%27+leash&qid=1570615664&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNSFVUSUZYSVRZUU8mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMzI5NzAxTDgzNkx...

You’ve gotten some very bad advice here, which you should ignore. Forget about being “alpha of the pack.” And do not flip your dog over on her back and say “no.” Those approaches are going to make things worse. You'll mess up your dog and mess up your relationship with her.

The common dog-jargon term for the behavior you’re describing is “resource guarding.” The best book on the subject is Jean Donaldson’s Mine! You should buy it or get it from your library (or via interlibrary loan). Also check out this blog post by Patricia McConnell.

Dogs make horrible gifts, especially for someone who is about to make a critical transition in life from being a perceived child in high school to an adult in college or the work force. Give her this instead.

Strongly recommend getting these off amazon. I have 2 for my dogs. I attach them to their harnesses that they wear whenever we go for car rides. People think it will never happen to them but all it takes is one time. My wife was skeptical but I told her, with how much we love our dogs, how devastated we would be if something were to happen to them that we could prevent

I have a solution to your problem :D

Carpal or Stopper pad protectors. You can get them on amazon (among other places)

Take him outside and brush him a few times a week, then give him a bath every once in awhile and brush him again

Buy this

ChomChom Roller Dog Hair, Cat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BAGTNAQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

They make cards you can put in your wallet next to your ID that say you have a pet at home, like this: My DOG Is HOME ALONE Pet Alert Emergency ICE ID Plastic Wallet Card and Keytag (Qty. 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M04D0PL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EPCACb5QXMTAH

Do you feel comfortable talking to any of your neighbors about them being your emergency dog care? You could also look around at dog daycares / boarding facilities or look into pet sitters, and contact them about emergency situations and if they could be your back up, and have that number on your pet card too in case something were to happen. You could also give this information to your parents, even though they are far away you could still list them as your hospital emergency contact list and then they could notify your pet sitter/whoever to take care of your dog.

Like others have said, safety is key. If you can’t crate him, they make harnesses that clip right into the seatbelt, like this.

Also, since you’re crossing states and the border, make sure you have his most recent shot records and a health certificate from your vet.

I wish my dog would do this, but I would also never ever trust him, as the walk to the dog park is 0.7 miles and through a busy urban area until we get inside the park, which is also very busy and full of people with their dogs. I'd probably have to get an Uber home and hope I could find one that's OK with dogs, and tip them a lot. I've thought about this more in the context of his leash buckle or collar breaking.

Leash pro tip: either buy one with a D ring near the handle (I like this one as it as a traffic handle which is key for my 85 lb guy), or slap a carabiner on the handle, then you can clip it to itself and make a loop to wear across your body, on one shoulder to the other hip. That's what I do and it's very handy for the dog park.

>Patches mysteriously passed in the middle of the night in her sleep. She was only 13. I think she died of a broken heart.

Very possibly so. Broken heart syndrome is a real thing. After a loved one dies the extreme stress can damage your heart and cause it to fail.

https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/broken-heart-syndrome/symptoms-causes/syc-20354617

Taking an anxious dog to a crowded public area is definitely a bad idea. When training you want to slowly build up to something like that and you jumped right into the deep end. That is setting your dog up for failure (which she did).

We're you wrong to bring her in public? No, she needs the training. But you definitely shouldn't of brought her to a busy area. Was the mother in the wrong? Yes, she sounds like an /r/entitledparents story with zero understanding of pets. But, you can't control what other people do (especially kids) near your dog. What if that nip accidentally hit the kid? You would have an "aggressive dog" and probably taken to court for the damages.

If you haven't been there already, head over to /r/reactivedogs. Also might want to get a patch for her harness and leash like this

Just let Yo out to pee. He went off to a corner of the yard and started enthusiastically sniffing around before popping up and bounding back toward me with something in his mouth. I told him to drop it and come in, which he did! Then I was curious what it was so I sent him back out to get it. He picked it up and looked at me and I realized that (of course) it was some sort of large dead rodent. �� I asked him to drop it (again) and come inside (again) and he did, immediately, with a smile. We had a party.

Where did this sweet angel come from? Yesterday at training he was such a brat!!

Editing to add: Yodel is a toy-a-holic who will play with juuuust about everything, but we discovered this new toy last weekend and he is going absolutely bonkers for it. I like it because it's easy to tug (no floppy bits = less chomped fingers) and easy to throw, plus it floats! Highly recommended!!

You can’t really force your neighbor to put up a fence unless their fence is on violations of some code (for example most municipalities have rules about fences around pools and such). Even then the best you could do is report it to whatever force handles building code violations and then wait to see what they do (they may force the fence to be brought up to code or they could just charge a fine and allow it to stay as is).

What you can do, short of building a second fence, is put up a privacy screen or with permission modify it in some other way.

As for the jumping, you can take photos or videos and report it each time it happens. If you need to leave your dog outside unattended for whatever reason, a dog run may be a cheaper option than building a new fence entirely.

A telescoping or folding ramp is probably what you need--something like this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Solvit-Deluxe-Telescoping-Pet-Ramp/17631212?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1172&adid=22222222227014358357&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40970257472&wl4=pla-78913037192&wl5=9031714&wl6=&w...

They are dependable (unlike homemade stuff if you're not an engineer!) and their width and no-skid surface will support an elderly Dane. Depending on the model, it can be a little flexy or steep, so be sure to go with a longer one so it'll be a gentler slope.

My parents had a Dane who lived to very old age, so I'm rooting for you to find a good way to get yours to the fun places he loves! Good luck. :)

Sorry people are being butt heads, I know people love dogs and they don’t mean harm, they just don’t realize some dogs have these issues. Baskerville makes the best basket muzzles, and people are also less likely to run up to your dog in a muzzle, so it helps there too! Also, take control of your safety in whatever way works for you and is legal in your area. I have three methods of self defense, first is a spray pepper gel by Sabre, and you should grab one! It’s not pepper (fog) spray, it’s safe for indoor use too, and it only affects what it lands on so you and your dog will be fine. I keep one in my treat pouch, just aim, flip the top and press down with your thumb. It’s also very helpful when someone has a clearly aggressive dog they insist is fine and won’t control it- just pull it out and suddenly their dog is leashed and being taken away. I also carry more serious means, but whatever works for you that you know how to use safely! Here’s the gel I have: SABRE RED Flip Top Pepper Spray with Key Ring – Maximum Police Strength Pepper Spray, Easier to Use Flip Top Design, Finger Grip for More Accurate Aim, 10-Foot (3M) Range, 25 Bursts (5X Other Brands) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W7DJLN1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T5CS3NXCNH5MZZH91R34?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Stay safe!!

If you have a dog who you’re worried about or if you’re worried about other dogs swallowing balls, these from Chuckit are great. They even float: CHUCKIT! Medium Durable Breathe Right Dog Ball https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6YPCIH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lMgKBbKDXVBKG

Thank you for the suggestion. I have a thin breed dog as well who can slip his harness let alone his collar, so I've been trying to find something that works.

What do you mean by greyhound type? Would you mind posting a link to one on amazon or something? Like is this one ok?

I put it in these, but not in these

On second thought searching for loop might give you more accurate results I think the commenter was referring to a type of brush like this JW Pet Company Dog Deshedding Loop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LHHHRJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jhNhDbTWTAP0R

PetSafe SprayShield Animal Deterrent with Clip, Citronella Spray up to 12 ft, Protect Yourself and Your Pets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIP6X06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5lDFBb96QC1JZ

You should carry that every time you are out walking client dogs IMO. I carry it on hikes, but I know a lot of people that carry it 24/7. Pretty effective at stopping a charging dog, and it won’t have any lasting damage (like a gun) or risk hurting yourself (like mace) so you won’t be hesitant to pull the trigger.

Tries to gracefully leap over large logs, fails...

Also, once we were out at the dog park with her doggy friend and she found a toy in the shape of a ring, like this, that she grabbed in such a way that her eyes were covered (with her teeth around the bottom, nose through the hole, and top over her eyes). But to release the toy would be to forfeit the toy to the other dog, so she continued to run around blind until she ran head-first into a tree. What a doof.

Turns out that the Clickit harness was the only passing device in crash tests done by the Center for Pet Safety funded by Subaru.

http://centerforpetsafety.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/2013_cps_harness_study_summary_final_rev101113.pdf

Report from Consumer Reports: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2013/10/pet-restraints-may-be-inadequate-in-a-crash/index.htm

just an aside- both these dogs have since been rescued. you can donate to the organization via: Kenn Sakurai https://www.facebook.com/notes/kenn-sakurai/donations-for-dog-rescue-japan/141172792615331 They are traveling around the destroyed roads on bikes with cages strapped to the back.

I'll just throw out the option of belly bands for the unhousetrained chihuahuas. Also known as "male wraps", they can be found at Petsmart/petco/Amazon. They come in washable and disposable varieties, around $10-20 bucks. Total lifesaver to save your furniture and carpets. You can line them with pads or panty liners, or the overpriced dog versions of those.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJ9QLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5A0rxb40P5EGS

There is a lot in terms of peer reviewed articles -- search on pos punishment. Generally, the main problems is that it causes an increase in nervous behavior and aggression.

And it's unnecessary to use positive punishment. People who think it's necessary really only mean that they don't know how to train without it. Vet behaviorists almost universally recommend R+. They also only see the most dire cases, you don't call them and shell out $500 for an hour unless you have tried and failed to solve it without. Look up Dunbar, McConnell, Yin, Dodman, AVSAB (American Veterinary Soc. of Animal Behavior) and see what they recommend.

Please find someone who focuses on positive reinforcement training; negative reinforcement has its place, in some specific instances and applications, but should only be used VERY selectively by an expert who knows what they are doing. Recommendations for choke collars and that kind of thing are usually a red flag.

I would also recommend reading Sophia Yin's book How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves to get a sense of why your dog might be behaving aggressively and some approaches you can take - in addition to working with a trainer - to help mitigate his reactivity. I have a family friend who is spending thousands of dollars to send her reactive dog to be intensively trained at a facility, but it's going to be useless if she doesn't actually work with the trainer to learn how to behave around her dog and implement the training herself. A trainer who will work with you in a hands on approach and can spend time with you and your dog at home and other familiar settings would be best.

ETA: I forgot to wish you good luck :)

Earth Rated bags are pretty darn nice. They are not the cheapest option out there, but they are large and study. I frequently pick up two German Shepherd-sized poops with one bag and have never had any issues. Amazon sells them in bulk here.

> Fair and balanced review. Perhaps you shouldn’t have wasted your time with this product given it’s advertised tolerance for mild chewers, but the response is ridiculous.

I did a quick look up.

This is how it's listed on Chewey: Give your aggressive chewer something that’s human AND dog-approved with the Pet Qwerks Barkbone Peanut Butter Flavor Dog Toy.

Even Amazon lists it as for aggressive chewers: https://www.amazon.com/Pet-Qwerks-Flavorit-Infused-BarkBone/dp/B06XZZMGQD?th=1 . All the flavors of Bark Bone are listed for aggressive chewers. The smaller ones (shaped like a dumbell) do have "for moderate chewers" on the packaging but there's no simular wording on the larger ones.

npr had an article last week about police dogs going over the threshold and no longer responding to officers' directions when biting people (among other problems, like police deploying them in unnecessary situations and stuff).

> it's still week one

Patience will be key here. Our dog is incredibly food motivated now, and would sell her soul for a cookie, but turned down a lot of treats in the first few weeks we had her.

I wouldn't worry or stress about this yet. He's not even showing you his personality at this stage. He's anxious, and clearly is resisting you trying to redirect his anxiety. He may or may not like toys, or be food motivated, or be playful, but right now he's anxious, so it may be several weeks before he starts to show you what he's really like.

I've heard before the 3-3-3 rule - it takes at least 3 days before most dogs will even start to relax, 3 weeks before they start to settle in, and 3 months before you'll really see them relax and their personality shine through. The durations will vary, but it's good to remember that it takes a while before you will really know your dog.

Once he starts to come out of his shell, we have had success with treat- and prey-based toys (such as a lotus ball and a flirt pole) even though our pup generally doesn't love toys. We've also treat-reinforced fetch so she'll play that game as a reward system.

Don't waste your money and risk your dog's well being with the board and train. It won't do anything but create more problems. It can absolutely be improved with:

1) suspending absences. while you're working desensitization, your dog cannot go over his threshold, his limit for being alone. he can only be alone under threshold or during a training session. Going over threshold and panicking will undo your training. So look into dog sitters, leaving him with someone (friends, family, willing neighbours, other students,etc), taking him to work, doggy daycare, etc. This is only temporary!

2) gradual desensitization under threshold. start at the amount of time he can be alone without panicking and gradually build up his tolerance.

3) medication: the right medication/dose is the gamechanger for a lot of people whose dogs have severe separation anxiety

Read Malena DeMartini's book on separation anxiety. She's a pioneer in the field. It's an extremely thorough book that goes over the protocol.

Also work with a CSAT trainer instead of the board and train.

Yeah, wow, their paperwork is just wrong. Phenobarbital is a barbiturate tranquilizer. It prevents seizures by depressing central nervous system activity. It doesn't remove toxins. It is a primary epilepsy treatment drug for dogs and humans in low doses. What your vet rightly cautioned you about was missing doses and causing withdrawal seizures due to the sudden lack of medication. You have to taper off of phenobarbital.

Don't just take my word for it (link).

Again, feeding a higher quality kibble has other advantages. I suggest you do so, using some of the recommendations you've received. However, if your dog continues to have seizures then canine epilepsy should be considered if they have otherwise healthy kidney & liver function, they don't have cardiac symptoms (heart murmur, etc), and you can rule out that they're eating something poisonous.

The first dog I ever got on my own was a spaniel who loved to lick pillows. Couldn’t stand her on my bed anymore licking my pillows, and my mom and I found a toddler bed at goodwill kind of like this one - it fit a standard crib mattress. It was so cute, I got her little crib sheets and a pillow and matching bedspread 😍 Whenever I see those toddler beds in thrift stores I think spaniel bed 😁

/u/8armstohugyouwith describes it well. I bought mine on amazon, you can also make your own for cheaper.

There's nothing wrong with it, and it's far safer than constantly replacing beds in case they ingest any parts.

That said, the cot-style beds do tend to be much more durable and one-time purchases that last forever. The Kuranda Dog Bed is widely used in boarding facilities and daycares, as they are chew proof and easy to disinfect (though check amazon, as they are likely less expensive there). I have this type at my own home and the dogs seem to like it, but none are especially destructive, so not sure if that's a fair indicator.

In any case, feel free to go bed-less, but there are potential other options out there if need be. Good luck!

Dairy milk isn't really that great for dogs. In the same way it would be bad for people to drink only cow milk without eating other food, dogs can't survive only off of cow milk.

Here is an Amazon link so you can get the milk delivered next day: https://smile.amazon.com/Esbilac%C2%AE-Powder-Milk-Replacer-Puppies/dp/B0002ASRZ8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1544810627&sr=8-3&keywords=puppy+milk+replacement

You could always try using an app like Sleep as Android which is set to record noises made in your sleep! It should be reasonably effective, I remember it from when it was used in the post with the probable intruder. If it could pick something like that up, it can probably get your dog.

Yeast overgrowth. Does your dog lick his paws/toes? This is a sign of discomfort. I use this product, it is an anti-microbial, anti-fungal. It is mild enough to use daily

Dechra MalAcetic; Ultra Spray Conditioner

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RNZQUKE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tjYVub0TMNWDE

> You're going to need a trainer to help you figure out how to get back on top of the pack hierarchy.

&

> Im not the alpha in my house either. But I'm lucky that my husband is

The alpha / pack hierarchy theory you are referring to has been debunked. You can read more about it to inform yourself.

OP, with respect to /u/imseagirl, I would not put too much stock into her advice.

OMG, I'm so glad you started this thread, I've been considering it for a while. I'm in the process of adopting a dog, and my responses have been similar. I go to petfinder, and each dog is under a different foster program, and they all have rules, and they won't even talk to you until you fill out an adoption application, giving them all of your personal info, including 3 references. Here are a few of the ridiculousness I've seen:

1. Will not adopt to anyone without a fenced in yard (regardless of breed or housing type)

2. Will not adopt to anyone who has not previously had a dog.

3. Charges an application fee

4. Will not adopt to anyone with children under the age of 10

5. requires signed permission slips from landlord

6. won't adopt out any dogs unless you own your own home

But the one that takes the cake is the 11 page manifesto that was sent to me, and I was ordered to read before I would be allowed to see any dogs. If anyone can show me how to link a file or change a word document to online, I will link it. Its quite the read.

Edit: Here we go: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=347FAFEEFC5BB0BD!847&authkey=!AFo7I6AV8OhbEXM&ithint=file%2cdoc

Yeah this is something that was kind of troublesome to me when I lived in Massachusetts. There are always risks, but Massachusetts has a very stringent 48-hour policy on quarantining that most legitimate rescues are good about following.

This was an article from awhile back I found talking about this, and a more recent one that talks about it. I think leptospirosis is bad, but not really part of the core vaccines and is very micro-area dependent. Even in California there was a canine influenza outbreak this year tied directly to rescue dogs from China.

The big issue is when stuff like rabies is getting spread around. While Massachusetts has transport stuff on lockdown with regulations, rescues in Connecticut, New Hampshire and Vermont do not have these policies. It's why a lot of people from Massachusetts are told to drive over the border to pick up their dogs in parking lots, which kind of creates for a workaround to regulations that

Those periods can't catch everything, but I found they were really necessary for the big things. I always was heavily supportive of the regulations and very understanding of the health certifications and quarantine period, although some bleeding-heart rescue people I knew when I was involved thought they were frivolous and unnecessary and made Massachusetts non-competitive to other rescues that bent the rules, which I certainly could understand.

Like /u/hoggles, I have a regular bike basket for my dog, Spokes. I put a cushion in it and clip her leash in, and I have a heavy duty velcro strap that goes over her (wouldn't actually keep her in, it's more of a mental thing for her to feel it on her back and know she can't jump up.) I've been biking with her since she was 3 months old so she loves it and is used to it. Here she is! I also bike a lot more carefully when she's with me. But my partner and I are into bike touring/bike camping so we've done a huge bike trip with her in the basket too. I think it was 40 km on the bike but Spokes just layed down and watched the world go by :)

You didn't mention his weight, but if he's currently 5 months, he probably won't be a large dog.
This might help you estimate: https://www.omnicalculator.com/biology/dog-size

That masking looks like possibly some border collie, but who knows? He look like a real sweet dog. Once you adopt, you can always do a DNA test for breeds (and health).

Nope. The general public and regulators just don't know much about LIMA dog training. It's totally unregulated. If this was the case, Caesar Millan wouldn't have a career and yet here he is. Compulsive trainers who use dominance theory which has been disproven for decades(by the same dude who came up with it in the first place too) wouldn't have careers but they still do.

What do you mean "if that were the case"? There are plenty of behaviorists who criticize aversives publicly online (this one is probably the most accessible) and the DACVB literally published a training book that covers punishment

This is the cheap one the shelter told us to get. They recommend cheap ones so ppl buy them as opposed to having nothing. I strongly recommend you search for a crash tested seatbelt as we are now going to do.

COOYOO Dog Seat Belt,2 Packs Retractable Dog Car Seatbelts Adjustable Pet Seat Belt for Vehicle Nylon Pet Safety Seat Belts Heavy Duty & Elastic & Durable Car Harness for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X836SW9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AA6ZKAHCKVR8E3RKC9W8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Haha someone else with a dog who’s not so bright! Ella’s a very nice girl, but if she actually watches me put treat under a plastic cup she still can’t find it 🤣

I bought her this, it says it’s easy and for puppies. (She’s not a puppy lol). I liked it because it didn’t have removable parts that could get chewed or choked on like the other easy one I was looking at.

It took her two weeks daily with me helping, but she manages to get most of the kibble out of it by herself now. The sliding doors aren’t big and don’t hold much.

1. Consider getting another opinion on the issue.
2. Ask your vet if you can get a dog stroller to at least get her out and exposed to the world.
3. Introduce nosework.
4. Introduce indoor agility - work on 2on/2off, nose touch, sending to a platform, going under things, over things, etc.

hmmm..I just started this week. I got this from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RNVZP13/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

But Ill look into the cage style. I worry as it get warmer. He's an all black doggie and gets warm fast

Haha, we got this one from amazon

They have cuter ones with ties, too, but my dog would have eaten those.

We use musher’s secret paw wax but it’s not really a moisturizer, more of a protectant. That helped, but we decided to add a moisturizer as well, and I’ve started noticing a bit of a difference.

We have this burt’s bees moisturizer. It’s pretty loose/liquid but seems to help.

I would start on cooperative care. This will build the trust and buy in for the behavior you want. Nail trimming should not result in bleeding with any regularity. She was taking too much off the nails. The quick needs time to recede.

We got this one from Amazon. We got the biggest size and it's perfect. It's gel and doesn't require and freezing or filling. It's also proven to be puncture proof between him biting it and the cat's claws.

I've posted this a couple times on the sub, but I bought this handheld on a whim, and literally it's the best Amazon purchase I've ever made. It pulls her hair out of our comforter and upholstery, even when it's layered and super thick (aka when she blows her coat). The rubber pulls and mats the fur and it gets sucked in.
It holds a LOT of hair in the actual tank, and you just pop open the front, dump the hair, and wipe the filter. It is so easy.

It's not great for like, small messes (crumbs, cat litter, or dirt), it will leave some pieces behind in my experience --- but it works 100% on pet hair. I totally recommend it!
:D

Huge PSA for this popular leash sold on amazon: the stitching around the metal clip is NOT reliable. I've had this leash for a month, and today the stitching completely came undone just as we were walking past some guy with a leaf blower on the sidewalk. My dog is skittish, and when she's frightened, her recall is terrible..luckily she ran back to the dog park again. The last time this happened, it was my fault for not holding the leash tight enough. But having the leash just completely fail on me like that? Shit. That was awful.

Yes! I have English bulldogs and they hate getting their feet wet so it started with not wanting to try to drag them out in the rain. Then it dawned on me it would protect them from broken glass, hot pavement, salt on the sidewalks on our rare snow/ice storms. This is what I use and I have had really good success with them. They aren’t expensive but they save my pups a lot of misery

https://www.amazon.com/EXPAWLORER-Waterproof-Reflective-Booties-Medium/dp/B01LZGEHP9

I find the ruffwear to be very sturdy. You might also want to consider putting a bungee leash extension between the tether and the harness so it's not always such a hard stop.

I'd also monitor and try to redirect when you can.

I personally wouldn’t buy too much gear until you see how they react to the colder temps. Depending on their age and (dog) coat type, they may or may not need/want coats. I had an older Beagle in Chicago and she definitely needed a coat. My young golden doodle could play in the snow all day and only wore a coat on the very coldest of days. Coats that are waterproof and easy to get on and off are best. Be aware that some coats have a little hole for your harness/leash connection and some don’t.

You’re right to be concerned about the paws. Not only the salt, but little ice balls tend to form between their paw pads which can be painful. I’m a big fan of the disposable ballon like Pawz boots. You can get several wears out of them and once you get the hang of it, they are easy to get on. I’ve tried more expensive boots in the past, but they were tough to get on and you’d more often than not lose one in a snow drift. Your pup will walk like a nut job at first, but will settle in. (And I swear they eventually understand the boots are helpful.)

https://www.amazon.com/Pawz-Water-Proof-Dog-Small-2-Inch/dp/B001J22876/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536434698&sr=8-1&keywords=Pawz&dpID=41PoiVUW-CL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

If your dogs refuse the boots, I’ve heard people rave about musher’s paste.

It’s been my experience that most younger/medium aged dogs absolutely love the snow so I don’t think you’ll have a problem. If you have an older pup with arthritis, winter can suck.

Good luck!

The only paper on the topic I know of is this one: https://www.scribd.com/doc/14810086/Heritability-of-Behavior-in-the-Abnormally-Aggressive-Dog-by-A-Semyonova#scribd

One issue is that people tend to polarize over the breed, so those who love the dogs will downplay or excuse attacks, while those who hate them will over-exaggerate,or they won't fact-check. I think fatal dog attacks are the only area where you can force some degree of objectivity--dog bites are common, most are on par with nicking yourself in the kitchen or workshop. It's the severity of damage (and to me, the AVOIDABILITY, or not) of the attacks that make this breed stand out. With fatal attacks, you can't make up or deny that it happened, and there's usually more data available. Reading those will give you not only %'s (yes, most fatalities are from bully breed dogs) but also the circumstances.

> Dogs are a product of their environment.

There are actually many ongoing studies on genetic traits linked to aggression

You are right that refusal to provide necessary medication is covered under cruel and unusual punishment. However, an animal is not a "person" with rights under Constitutional law. See footnote 5 of Miles v. Augusta, Ga. (Also, worth noting is Roe v. Wade, which holds that a fetus is not yet a person under Constitutional law.)

Wow, this is such a whopper of a bad idea that I don't even know where to start.

Any chance of talking some sense into her? I'm sure there are videos on YouTube showing how hard you have to work a husky to tire them out. And I think there's a page called "Stuff my Husky destroyed"-- or something like that-- that might be particularly eye-opening.

Edit- Here is the husky destruction page and here is a youtube video of a husky that ate a futon.

Double edit- if you do decide to live with her and this dog, I would not expect to see a penny of your security deposit back. Also, I'm erring on the side that she's going to be a not so great husky owner on account of the limited amount of time she has for the dog given her college courses.

As u/becomingk said, i do experience this daily.

I just let him go with it. I kind of figure he's thinking "OMG OMG FOOD IS NEXT" because he usually eats after a walk. But I also think he kinda just likes to do it? Idk.

Edit: he does this after a 3 mi (leashed) run, a half hour playing off leash fetch, or a quick potty break. For my dog at least, it seems more related to time of day than anything.

Eh, I often use the term 'submissive' colloquially too, but I sometimes wonder whether that's really the best word. I think 'appeasement' is a more accurate term to describe behavior and 'submissive' to describe relationships, because there really isn't much to go by that says that the dog in turn acknowledges that you're dominant, you know? Encyclopedia Britannica's definition is on point IMO.

Edit: Haha, I didn't notice. /u/_ataraxia already stole the words from my mouth.

I have an extremely active and healthy bulldog!

Check out the book Cooperative Care by Deb Jones. The book goes over the best way to train dogs to accept grooming.

In the meantime, I’d find a new vet. Banfield kinda sucks, most of the time. It’s a chain so there’s some individuals working there who are good, however as a whole, it’s not great. Look for one who is fear free certified. They are usually better at handling pets who are scared of the vet.

And don’t feel bad. You are not a bad owner, you’re just struggling, and it’s ok to struggle and ask for help. A bad owner would just give up and not get her nails trimmed at all.

I had a small stainless steel (with a plastic inside pail) garbage can a bit to one side of my front door. I put the bags in there and then put them into my big garbage bag when it was garbage day.

I did buy a nice poop bag container on Amazon. I didn’t get to use it because I was waiting until I got my new porch put on my house. My Boxer boy died before that could happen. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/PawPail-Pet-Waste-Station-Activated/dp/B07BK82W52

It’s listed at $149.99. I know I didn’t spend that much for it! I bought it in October of 2019.

This is what I was using: https://www.amazon.com/simplehuman-Fingerprint-Proof-Stainless-4-5-Liter-1-2-Gallon/dp/B00203PSRA

It was an old can we had had for years. I used it outside for almost two years and it held up. It was exposed to the elements. The only time there was any smell was when you opened it, so it wasn’t a problem for me.

What about one of the den like beds.

Furhaven Pet - Round Snuggery Hooded Dog Bed with Attached Blanket, Calming Anti-Anxiety Hooded Donut Bed, and More for Dogs and Cats - Multiple Colors, Sizes, and Styles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HG6RL8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B122AHQ9VJ934JJ06Z6B

She has separation anxiety. Look into Malena DeMartini's book and hiring a CSAT trainer.

You'll need to find a way to suspend absences while you're training (she has to be kept under threshold - the time she can spend alone without panicking- while you're gradually building up her tolerance to being alone). This may mean bringing her to work, WFH if possible, daycare, sitter, finding someone to leave her with, etc. It's the hardest part about training separation anxiety, but the most important. Even if someone tries to work on the separation anxiety, if their dog is alone for too long and starts panicking, then it undoes their training. It's only temporarily!

Also, medication (that you can get from a vet or vet behaviorist) will really help (once you've found the right medication + dose), especially in instances where the dog's threshold is too low and incompatible with the owner's life and realistic training.

Can you hang some tarps or something over your fence so neither dog can see through?

Honestly based off of what you said I'd give up on the idea of your neighbor doing anything to help you, so you need to look at this situation from a "What can I do?" lens. Maybe putting up some tarps will solve the problem or at least make it tolerable for you and your dog. You could try a bark deterrent such as this and use it with the other dog when he's antagonizing yours through the fence, although it's not guaranteed it would have any impact.

Glad to hear that you're moving, at least you're not faced with having to deal with this for eternity.

Oh boy. 5 weeks is young, poor puppy. No reputable breeder would do this, meaning you bought him from a BYB or a puppy mill. I would definitely invest in health insurance for your dog, as he is going to be at a greater risk for issues like hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, etc.

That said, your puppy is weaned so he can be eating puppy food. I recommend a puppy food by Purina Pro Plan, Eukanuba, Royal Canin, or Iams to start. You'll probably need to soften the food before he can actually eat it, and since he is so young I would be extra cautious about making sure he's eating enough. I highly suggest moistening his food with a warm mixture of Epsilac (https://www.amazon.com/Esbilac%C2%AE-Powder-Milk-Replacer-Puppies/dp/B0002ASRZ8) which is a milk substitute. I've used it with young puppies like this before and it's always been a crowd pleaser. I would mix up maybe a cup of the milk formula and pour it over the puppy kibble and let it sit for an hour or so for the kibble to soften, then add a little more warm formula before giving it to the pups.

And as others said - VET VISIT ASAP. Additionally, absolutely do not allow your puppy to touch a surface that an unvaccinated dog may have touched (meaning no dog parks, no parks in general, pet stores, etc.). Parvovirus is a very real threat right now since your puppy is so young and vulnerable. Good luck!

The maker is called smart pet love, it came in this puppy kit - and I don’t know this store but they sell it separately , maybe other places do too

If it’s outside at night you could get an LED or reflective collar to put on her before she goes outside (I have this one). You could also try to put a little bell or something on her collar for a couple days - just make sure she can’t reach it to try to eat it and that it’s secure.

Do you have a good dryer? It may depend on the dog but a lhasa/cocker mix sounds like it would have pretty dense hair...you're gonna want to make sure you have a dryer powerful enough to dry through to the skin, and efficient enough to not make the hair all frizzy. Human hair-dryers aren't often strong enough, but you can get pretty decent velocity dryers on amazon. I have this one and it's really good for my Golden, who has very thick fur. It's small enough to work in a bathroom, and it's not even horribly loud.

I carry this. I have never had an occasion to use it, which is good of course, but that means I cannot tell you how effective it is. I suppose it will vary from animal to animal anyway. Other similar products come up on Amazon on course. Bear spray comes to mind but that may get your pup in the spray. If they are feral cats then I doubt water would do any good.

What city do you live in? Here in Atlanta we have organizations like KirkCats dedicated to trap-and-spay of cats. I know you said traps aren't a viable option but maybe they will have other ideas. At least they might be more helpful than the city government.

My lab/pit Ella can't go to dog parks either as she's leash reactive (so like, actually getting her to the dog park is the issue) but she's young so she has craaaazy energy! We feed her both of her meals in either her kong wobbler or her "magic mushroom", we switch it up on her a lot so she doesn't get bored of the same puzzle feeder over and over. She's a pretty heavy chewer and hasn't been able to destroy either one!

We also freeze kongs for her pretty much every day, we'll put cottage cheese (her favorite) or broth with some cut up apples in it. Like I said earlier, she's a power chewer! So this keeps her mouth busy. She also gets beef trachea, nylabones, Himalayan chews and bully sticks. Chewing wears her out because she stays so focused.

The other thing we do is looooots of mental stimulation. We play hide and seek in the house, we'll hide her toys for her to find them, we do lots and lots of training, and we just try our hardest to make her use her brain! Our trainer once said 15 minutes of training is equal to 45 minutes of running in terms of exhaustion, so we've taken that and rolled with it lol.

ETA: here's a link to the magic mushroom on amazon! https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Mushroom-Dispensing-Medium/dp/B00520EJXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506283184&sr=8-1&keywords=magic+mushroom+dog+toy

Current favorite impulse Amazon buy: these silicone treat bags. So easy to clean! Great for the smelly, slimy treats that Kira loves.

​

Also, signed up for the next Fenzi session. Planned on two bronze classes but ended up with a bronze and a gold 🤔 Magic Mats (Bronze) & LLW Anonymous (Gold). I have a dream that one day Kira will be a LLW pro like the dogs I see walking around our neighborhood but we have a long way to go.

She should be fine.

That is really not a tool that I love - it's very "aggressive." An undercoat rake and a slicker brush is a safer option. Also, if your dog is going through a major shedding, a trip to the groomer for a deshedding treatment (shampoo and blow dry) can do a lot of good.

So worth it but I wasn't ready for the price tag so I bought this other brand below. It's amazing. I run it 2 or more times a day. My hound just sheds by existing.... It works very well on our laminate flooring. I wouldn't get this one for lots of carpeted areas though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y56NDF4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I've read good things about the elevated style beds for dogs that like to destroy their beds.

For whatever reason, my girl simply grew out of annihilating her beds and I got her a huge Kirkland brand bed from Costco.

the page on the costco website lists the inactive ingredients. You can always give your vet a ring and ask them if you have conerns and have them go over the inactive ingredients.

A large majority of store brand pharmaceutical products are made by the same companies that produce the name brands, they are simply repackaged or branded and sold under the store brand name.

/r/askvet may also be able to answer questions you have.

Costco's "Nature's Domain" salmon and sweet potato (made by Diamond, I think) is far more reasonable in price. I think it's about half what you listed. Shipping is included in the price.

My dog is a Italian greyhound chihuahua mix and he was a rescue. From the beginning he was defensive around new people and would growl and snap at children and other dogs. Furthermore he would go crazy if another dog was in sight. If he couldn't "go say hello" he would bark and pull at the lead. Then there was a 50/50 chance he would start a fight if we came in contact with another dog. We decided to take him to a friends with 4 other dogs and within an afternoon he was one of the pack. Over the last year I read a book or two and practiced several techniques and he has done a 180. The dog parks have been awesome to practice. We were afraid he wouldn't be a social dog but now he is doing great.

Maybe get him this?

I know I will get downvotes for saying it because I have before around here.. but honestly, I bought and trained him based on these Cesar Millan training videos. I definitely recommend picking the right dog for you, and the third video, your new dog first day and beyond, i watched four or five times before I purchased my dog.

Even if you don't like how he actually implements his training, I'm a big fan of learning a dog's body language.

Edit: I've found this link where you can enter your zip code to get libraries that have this DVD in their inventory.

Consumer Reports agrees with this: "No pet insurance covers pre-existing conditions."

The problem is it’s not just the idiots dog that’s in danger. Even in 30mph crash an unrestrained dog would become a moving projectile that could injure someone inside the car or beyond.

Very unpleasant to think about but anyone hit by a 10lb lapdog would feel like they were hit by something with a mass of 2,000lb. No one comes out of a collision like that well. Physics is very unforgiving. https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/car-crash-force